What are /r/M43's favorite Products & Services?

From 3.5 billion Reddit comments

I've only got one lens for mine, the 12-40mm f/2.8. It is such a useful range and very fast for a zoom. My next lens will probably be the wide zoom below this one... or maybe the tele above it.

Hate to burst your bubble, but this has been wrong for awhile. You're getting the Pan-Lumix 25mm f/1.7. I ordered one myself almost a month ago, exact same product page, and it is the f/1.7 Lumix. Still a great lens for the price, but Amazon is just TERRIBLE at keeping lens descriptions and photos correct. They have the same issue with the Olympus 45mm f/1.8. Again, I also own this lens and ordered it from that product page. The photos shown however, are of the 12mm f/2.0 for...some reason:

https://www.amazon.com/Olympus-M-ZUIKO-Digital-Panasonic-Cameras/dp/B00CI3R53W/ref=sr_1_9?keywords=Olympus+25mm&qid=1563551754&s=electronics&sr=1-9

Looks like it is ~$1,350 on Amazon, so ~$420 discount. The no warranty version is closer at ~$1,100, still ~$170 savings. There isn't any warranty information on the listing itself, but all the comments say it is the no warranty version.

Not sure if this is what you are thinking about, but as others have done, I have put a 35mm f1.7 CCTV lens on my M43. If you search here for CCTV you can find examples of shots. Costs about $30 from Amazon or Ebay which is why I thought of it.

Link to item on Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005FDH1UO

After (eventually) choosing the E-M5 over the E-M10 I was loving it but I really wasn't very impressed with the kit lens so it didn't take long for me to pop for the 12-40 F2.8. It's AWESOME! So the other day I noticed this bumble bee and decided to see how close in I could get.

I absolutely love this shot I took, it's not totally sharp but you can see that the bee has it's tongue out.

The system is more than capable of making great shots. This is my personal favorite that I've done of product photography.

https://dribbble.com/shots/1739710-Packaging-design-and-photography

Shot with 75mm f1.8 and EM1.

Honestly for most photos that I'm just going to throw in instagram or facebook I just use snapseed on my phone or iPad.

You can take a look at lightzone (http://www.lightzoneproject.org/) as a lightroom replacement or GIMP (https://www.gimp.org/) as a photoshop replacement.

What's your budget? Not sure about availability, but I really like the Ona Bowrey. The Domke f-5xb is also good, just not a huge velcro fan. Tenba Cooper 8 looks interesting as well, but haven't actually seen one in person (may be a bit big).

Or search for a padded camera insert, Amazon has a few, and pick any bag of your choice. I have this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008UVIT7M it goes in and out of stock in the US, but works for when I need to use a random bag/backpack.

Sandhamn forrest: https://www.deviantart.com/stoy/art/Forrest-3-Sandhamn-Trip-1-2018-751964274

I wrote a big piece about this photo a few min ago, but hit the back button and Bacon Reader threw out all text without a confirmation...

yay......

Here are the settings for the photo:

Camera: Panasonic GX80
Lens: Panasonic G Vario 1:3,5-5,6/14-140 at 34mm/f6,3
Shutter Speed: 10/8000
ISO: 800

Trying out street photography, this dudes jacket caught my eye and I followed him for a bit trying to take sneaky pics haha. Taken with the oly 45mm on an em5ii. Don't know the specifics right now sorry because I'm half asleep but if anyones interested I can find them tomorrow.

http://matthewalunbrown.com/autostitch/autostitch.html

I find it works about as well as photomerge in Lightroom, and much more quickly/cpu efficient. It also lets you specify output size so you don’t end up with massive, unwieldy final products. I just make sure to have done most of my curves and white balancing before using autostitch, as it only exports compressed file format like jpeg.

So that's probably pretty close to the actual FOV if you're using the formula with the actual sensor size. 'Crop factor' is only relevant in comparisons to a different sensor size, so no reason to refer to that in this instance.

What I would recommend to you is to download a free planetarium software called Stellarium. In it, you can enter in various sensor sizes and telescope/lens combinations and see what exactly the coverage would be for the night sky.

As an example, a 500mm lens on a M43 body would nicely cover the Orion nebula

how wide? I own the Lumix 14mm f/2.5 which appears to be available used on Amazon for as low as $175 and it's possible cheaper elsewhere? it's a fine lens though nothing amazing so you might go with something shorter (like the Rokinon 12) if you can scratch up the extra $125.

Amazon Basics has a couple sizes of camera bag that could be an option; I have the larger and it fits my old P&S, camcorder, and EM10ii w/ pancake and 2 lenses (and all the assorted chargers and spare batteries for all the devices) with room to spare. I wouldn't call it a great solution if you're looking for something to wear on a hike or out on the town for an evening, but if you're just looking for something to keep your gear together to easily be able to take in your car, the price can't be beat.

I just went through this, and wound up buying new because I was uncomfortable with the refurbished / used options online.

I was looking for a factory refurb (accustomed to what Olympus does), but I eventually bought a new GX85 + both kit lenses in a bundle on Amazon for $500 instead.

It was worth the extra $100 or so to me to get a new one, get both lenses (I'm new to MFT), and be able to send it back to Amazon if something was funky.

https://www.amazon.com/PANASONIC-12-32mm-45-150mm-Stabilization-DMC-GX85WK/dp/B079VDF7ZG/ref=sr_1_1?s=photo&ie=UTF8&qid=1542738885&sr=1-1&keywords=gx85

With any camera that has good video, but no mic input, you plug your microphone into either a phone with an audio recorder app, or a dedicated external audio recorder. (Here is an example.)

Synchronization is important if someone is speaking on camera, and this is usually facilitated by having the on-camera talent doing a single clap once the video and audio are rolling, which gives the editor an easy point to sych the video track with the audio track. in post production. This isn't hard to do at all.

The external audio recorder gives you better sound control and options than all but the most expensive cameras, and I have completely stopped recording sound in camera even if the camera has that option. Each person now gets an audio recorder with a laviler mic and the whole thing is brought together in post production.

For a really good in-depth discussion on this, take a look at this video from B&H: How to Use a Portable Audio Recorder on a Video Shoot. They go through the different ways to capture sound with your video from the simplest to the more professional solutions. You will probably be most interested in Workflow #2: Plugging an External Microphone into a Portable Digital Recorder.

Correct me if I'm wrong but I'm fairly certain OLYMPUS Image Share works as a remote.

• https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=jp.olympusimaging.oishare
• https://itunes.apple.com/fr/app/olympus-image-share/id561896860?mt=8

This is the listing: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Mini-25mm-F1-8-APS-C-Television-TV-Lens-CC-TV-Lens-For-16mm-C-Mount/32766694382.html Take note, mine doesn't focus to infinity and you will be better served with another model IMO

I've had my Gx8 bought from eBay for about a year now and as much as I like it and it has held up for several professional shoots/events, I would highly recommend checking out Focus Camera's deal on their G9.

https://slickdeals.net/f/11928783-focus-camera-trade-in-qualifying-dslr-dslm-lens-get-lumix-g9-400-off-plus-trade-in-value

Here is a picture I took two nights ago near the Melbourne war memorial. 1/4 shutter, 200 ISO, f/2.8 (I think) 40mm (80 eqv) focal length, Oly omd5II.

Not tack sharp or anything, but I've got shaky hands to hell and back whilst limiting myself to ISO 200 is going to do that.

Panoramic Shot of Desolation Wilderness

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Went for a hike last weekend and tried to take a panorama. Used the free program Autostitch and thought it turned out pretty good. There is a little bit of weirdness in the foreground blending. Also, I shot on aperature priority mode, maybe I should have used manual to keep shutter speed constant.

Shot on olympus em10.2, w/ oly 12-40 lens. 9 images used to make this panorama, all shot at 14mm on tripod, f/8, ISO 200, 1/800 - 1/1000 sec.

Went to Iceland last week. Such a great place to practice landscapes. I've always shot wide landscapes without foreground subjects, so I'm hoping to get better at this. Aspiring Rocks Olympus E-M5 MarkII w/ Olympus 12-40 f2.8 @15mm F3.5 ISO 200 1/2000.

I can't imagine a method that will let you get a panorama and still have good stars, as there will be movement between exposures. Honestly, you sound like a candidate for the 8/1.8 fisheye, which you can rent when you need it, and perhaps some de-fishing software. 16MP is plenty for a nice sized print; the rule of 300dpi in the source file for a quality print is pessimistic and naive. I have a 16x20 print that was made from a 12MP file, and it looks great even up close.

If you want to do stitched panoramas of star fields, get yourself a tracking mount, such as the one from iOptron. You won't use the built-in panorama function, instead you use Photoshop (or Hugin, if you're cheap :-), and stitch in post.

Amazon, here is a link: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0813R9BYS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

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Yeah I felt the same way, a wrist strap is very unobtrusive but still secure when you need it

Get the 20mm 1.7. Great lens. The focal length is a good one for street photography, it's sharp, and the f/1.7 allows for low light. It'll have auto focus as well. Only slightly over your budget at $267 on Amazon: Panasonic Lumix G H-H020AS 20mm F/1.7 II ASPH Fixed Lens https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DJS8322

I picked up the Godox TT350O from Amazon recently. I haven't had much success with it because I'm a total amateur but the learning curve hasn't been steep thanks to TTL. Based on my research, it received the most mentions and generally positive feedback as a great entry-level flash with TTL.

In case any Americans are going "damn, wish I had that deal," US Amazon has it available for $147 new: https://www.amazon.com/PANASONIC-LUMIX-MIRRORLESS-THIRDS-H-H025K/dp/B014RD6RC0?keywords=panasonic+25mm+1.7&qid=1539036733&sr=8-3&ref=sr_1_3

You may even want to check out a bag insert for cameras, rather than dedicated bags. Just and Example from Amazon

Welcome! - Figured that's what it was. Pretty typical kit lens length.

Note that the 50mm will "look" like a 100mm FF equivalent lens on a m43 sensor. (This is also why folks suggested the Lumix 25mm/1.7, since it "looks" like a nifty-50.") -- so, It'll be a kind of narrow FoV, but it'll make a nice portrait lens. The 2x converter will make it look like a 200mm equivalent. So you've got a bit to play around with there as is.

You just need the dumb FD-to-m43 adapter. Any $25 off brand should work. I went with a K&F Concept https://www.amazon.com/Concept-Adapter-Olympus-Panasonic-Cameras/dp/B00LECYK0Y But there are $15-$20 versions that should work.

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No prob / Welcome again ;)

I like the way you think. Yes, you need to keep a camera out of sight when not in use in the city. And even when in use you want it firmly attached to your body. For a small camera body I use the OP/TECH Compact Sling diagonally across my body, preferably under an outer shirt or jacket so it falls under the clothing when I am not shooting. The camera slides freely along this strap so it is easy to grab it and shoot when I am ready.

When I am not going to be using it I have it in my sling bag on my back. Make sure you avoid anything with a camera manufacturer's logo - you don't want to advertise the contents of your bag.

Meke from Amazon super cheap and fun MEIKE MK-S-AF3A Metal Auto Focus Macro Extension Tube Adapter Ring (10mm+16mm) for Sony Mirrorless E-Mount FE-Mount A7 NEX Camera A7 A7M2 NEX3 NEX5 NEX6 NEX7 A5000 A5100 A6000 A6300 A6500 A9 A7III https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MRXL7Q1/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_1MfpEbMDRN0GH

What's funny is I thought these were the only automatic extension tubes, but were WAY too much. So I got these first.. But focus didn't work. I found out the hard way you had to have those pins if you were going to focus the lens.

Amazon has review section for those lens. Basically they are adapted CCTV lens. They will make your excellent G7 a Lomo camera, if you are ok with that :)

This or this if you want the Domke look. I have the F5-XB, and I love it. I can carry my OMD EM1, with M Zuiko 12-40mm, 75-300mm, and Rokinon fisheye with it.

> Yes, let's say the purpose for buying this lens is light gathering and wide, for astrophotography... On FF at 21mm, what aperture would I need to achieve the same lowlight performance, holding all else equal?

So, I've read different opinions on this. I don't claim to know the correct answer, so I do hope somebody who knows more than me chimes in.

On the one hand, I've read some people say that f/X is f/X is f/X... namely, f/0.95 will gather more light than, say, f/1.8, regardless of the sensor size it's being used on. If that's the case, then there are no full frame equivalents of this lens that I'm aware of.

On the other hand, I've read that the smaller photosites on the M43 sensors will gather less light than larger photosites on the senors used in other systems, so this 10.5mm f/0.95 lens would have the same light gathering capability as a 21mm f/1.9 full frame lens used on a full frame sensor. If that's the case, then it just so happens that Voigtlander makes this lens and lo-and-behold it's pretty much the exact same price.

So, either the lens has more light gathering capability than any full frame 21mm lens out there, or it has the same light gathering capability as its full frame big brother, which costs the exact same price. But this M43 lens (and the body it's used on) will be much, much smaller and lighter than big brother... so there's that.

EDIT: words are hard :-/

I love this one Has a ton of presets and you can also add custom presets that match your exact sensor size.
The interface is also very quick and simple to use.

I got her an olympus underwater point and shoot when she turned 5 along with this book a year and a half ago. We're well on our way.

https://www.amazon.com/Eyes-Open-Photography-Projects-Curious/dp/1597114693

What the heck is happening here? https://photos.google.com/share/AF1QipMUlu7pLoX80OX00ubtCk7O-uHLP6kJsPKJsPQeE3r7IlwVo6Wdj6S2fiG4PY9ZLg/photo/AF1QipNO4l4vMd2HNTvfKMKE77CffW4OzaV6Y_XoTLAC?key=cG1nZG1wS1NMNmN0OTFCbmhWM2Q1VlpCNHczQTRR

>... are you able to have different flash compensation set up on the master and slave with this?

Yes, but only if both your on-camera speedlight and off-camera speedlight are both Godox units. Godox speedlights have built-in radio transceivers, so they can be used as both the on-camera radio transmitter unit or an off-camera receiver unit.

If, for example, you had two TT350-O, then the on-camera one would be in the M group and the off-camera one could be in Group A, and you could set the power levels differently. You could even put one in TTL and the other in M if you wanted.

>... I want [the FL-LM3 that came in the box with the camera] to act as a fill and the Godox as the main light...

The FL-LM3's wireless flash capability is in Olympus/Panasonic's "RC" optical wireless flash system. It uses light, not radio, to communicate with another flash. And it can't sit directly on the hotshoe if your transmitter is in there.

If you're using an X2T transmitter with a hotshoe up top, the main issue is that hotshoe is not a pass-through full TTL hotshoe, it's <em>only</em> got the sync trigger. It may be treated more as a slave in Group A and you could still be able to set it to TTL and independently of the off-camera flash by assigning different groups (i.e., on-camera Group A, off-camera Group B). But I can't say 100% for sure. The X2T's hotshoe behavior is kind of an unknown, since so few people use it. All we know for sure is that stacking a TTL transmitter on top of it never seems to work.

I think you may have to try it to see if it works, unless you can find someone who's actually done it.

https://www.amazon.ca/Olympus-Digital-Silver-Panasonic-Cameras/dp/B0058G40O8/ref=mp_s_a_1_1_sspa?crid=26K68OQ9FK0JU&amp;keywords=olympus+45mm+f1.8&amp;qid=1659668115&amp;sprefix=olympus+45%2Caps%2C73&amp;sr=8-1-spons&amp;psc=1&amp;spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGV...

This one?

Yes, that one is the nice but light and cheap 45mm. There is a series of Olympus small, light, fast, and amazingly good lenses like that one. 45 f/1.8, 25 f/1.8, 17 f/1.8 and 12 f/2.0 are all good enough to be used for full on professional photography, but are amazingly small, sharp, and inexpensive. They all look about the same, so you will know them once you see them. The 75 f/1.8 is incredible as well, but costs quite a bit more compared to the rest and is much larger.

I also just recently got the 45 f/1.2 after using the f/1.8 for about 10 years, and the 1.2 is AMAZING, but it costs a hell of a lot more and is far larger. The 45 f/1.8 is just so easy to carry around by comparison.... Throw your zoom on for most shots, but when you need a good portrait, or want to isolate an interesting subject from the background, pop out the 45 f/1.8 you carried all day without even noticing you had it, and get that shot. You can google image search "Olympus 45 f1.8 portrait" to see some examples of what it can do.

Also, for Amazon links you can always cut them off right after the first string of random characters (B0058G40O8 in this case), too get a much shorter link. I delete everything after it in the browser address bar, hit enter to load the page again, then copy the link, like this:

https://www.amazon.ca/Olympus-Digital-Silver-Panasonic-Cameras/dp/B0058G40O8

I am trying to sell my G9 and m43 lenses, olympus 60mm included (love that lens).

Items and prices (click on item name and "open page" for images): https://www.notion.so/3ff827d874b04f9b87b123bb9e6c0d38?v=f466fe5cca5347e6baef562c935859bf

DM me if interested

I've used the teleconverter with a pair of macro tubes (Specifically the ones from here (amazon canada).

You can either shave the 16mm one to make it large enough to "go around" the teleconverter protrusion or use two 10mm ones or use place them in this order: Body > Teleconverter > 10mm > 16mm > 60mm lens

I think most macro tubes in the 10mm or 16 mm types will have the same problem I outlined here

This is the stepup ring I use every week. It has a 46mm thread. Nothing special or awkward about it.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07WMWMGFS/ref=ppx\_yo\_dt\_b\_search\_asin\_title?ie=UTF8&amp;th=1

i used this adaptor , tried with the pana 14-140 but the results wasn't very good, because of the focus

fwiw:

You can get a generic 2-camera strap for $25 https://www.amazon.com/Camera-Shoulder-Harness-Release-Adjustable/dp/B07F9QN5Q9

SD cards are pretty cheap as well. 128GB for $25 or so?

IMHO, I'd use fresh new SD anyways, because I'd ALSO use them as long-term storage backup. (My tourism/vaca trips cost thousands, sunk ~$25 more per trip just to keep cards as tertiary backups.)

As with others advice: 2nd body so you don't need switch lenses often.

I was asked by friends to bring camera to their wedding. I was not the photographer (there were two, she brought a 2nd.) I did more documentary kind of stuff - friends and family celebrating, etc.

Even then as a guest, I took around 1000 (burst a lot,) which culled down to 250 or so. So know you should take a LOT more than you may realize. Never know which frame someone's eyes closed or a growing smile looks awkward. Burst shoot anything that's a passing moment: entrances, vows, rings, kiss, cake cutting, etc.etc.

Whoopsy

Thanks, if I can get a new one of the original for twice the price, is it worthwhile? https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00I0TUQX4/?coliid=ICMN3X5YSFXL6&amp;colid=30Y7GB806718L&amp;ref\_=lv\_ov\_lig\_dp\_it&amp;th=1

I have this lens cap-turned-pinhole holder, which also appears to be discontinued. The focal length is around 22-23mm, which is longer than I'd like, but it's easy to change out the pinhole foils which is nice, since the pinhole that came with it was so big it was useless, and I had to make my own.

When you use a pinhole lens, you will see every single speck of dust on your sensor in every photo. Flare and glare are 'interesting' if sunlight is hitting the pinhole directly.

Still, as an experimental sort of thing it's fun to play around with now and then. Here are a few pictures that I've taken. I started playing with putting multiple pinholes in the foil (I'm just using metal from a soda can), and that's what you see in the second and third pictures.

Okay, so this is the USB hub I used to fix the TetherTool cable not working problem between my Mac and my M1x: https://www.amazon.com/Anker-PowerExpand-Ethernet-Delivery-MacBook/dp/B08C9HZ5YT/ref=sr_1_3?crid=3LNDFQJ2RMHL7&amp;keywords=anker+power+expand&amp;qid=1647955989&amp;sprefix=anker+power+expand%2Caps%2C216&amp;sr=8-3

Let me know if you have any questions.

Can't guarantee this works but it's a the newest format cable. USB 3.2. it's cheap enough anyways. Write back in tell us if it works. USB C to USB C Cable 100W,Rampow [3.3ft,USB 3.2 Gen 2X2] USB C Cable Braided Fast Charging Cable for MacBook Pro 2021,iPad Pro 11,iPad Air 4,Samsung Galaxy S21/S20/S10/S9,Pixel,Switch-Navy Blue https://www.amazon.com/dp/B082SD28S4/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_X17VX25ZVRKGHTQXSD2S?psc=1

Has anyone tried to drive two cameras off a single remote shutter release? I want to program a shutter release to set off 2 olympus cameras simultaneously, can I simply use a 2.5mm 'headphone' splitter on my cameras?

Something like this https://www.amazon.ca/Ancable-st%C3%A9r%C3%A9o-femelle-r%C3%A9partiteur-haut-parleur/dp/B07SRXJTBL/ref=mp_s_a_1_3

I have the Oly 17mm 1.8. It takes a little getting used to coming from the 25mm (before this lens, I only had the 25mm and 75mm), but if you compose properly, it a pretty nice lense imo.

https://photos.google.com/photo/AF1QipNIfQPbU0CGh7pKc8OtMrLpERTs7B701CW49inh

Thanks for the info. The lens seems to make that noise when zooming between 12mm and ~30mm. After that the lens only makes the regular noise of friction.

I uploaded the audio file to clyp.it. Hopefully that works better for you.

Buy a used GX80/85 with aftermarket palm grip and thumb grips + Lumix 14-140mm F/3.5-5.6 and Lumix 25mm f/1.7 and you're done.

Aftermarket grips (palm and thumb) on the GX series cameras totally transform their ergonomics.

The G80/G90's advantages are mostly found in their video-focused features, but if you prefer either of them, they are both are great cameras, and you can't lose either way. Still, keep looking for a used G9 if you find you want something more capable (especially the A.I. assisted Autofocus, and 6K photo modes, and amazing EVF + ergonomics.)

Yeah not sure on the oz pricing. 1.7 to 1.4 is just half a stop of light though. That's a heck of lot of outlay for not much gain.

Personally for that type of money I think the no-brainer option would be to replace the G85 with a G9 (AUD$1008 on Amazon AU).

It's a vastly superior camera in all respects and low light performance is quite a bit improved. The newer sensor and upgraded processor make all the difference.

The PL12 is definitely a beautiful piece of glass though. There have been reports of some de-centering issues on some copies so if you go that path I'd be careful to ensure you have a robust purchase return option.

Mine's a Sandisk Extreme Plus, 32GB, 80 mb/s, Class 10...

It's only about $25 at Costco right now if you want to see if it makes a difference: http://www.costco.com/SanDisk-32-GB-Extreme-Series-Class-10-SDHC-.product.11766584.html

The no-name ones on Amazon seem fine to me. (They probably come out of the same factory and get re-branded everywhere.) For example: https://www.amazon.com/Camera-Packs-Piece-Cleaning-Wiper/dp/B09531JM96/

You can also separately buy a tether that glues to your lens cap. For example: https://www.amazon.com/Altura-Photo-Premium-MagicFiber-Cleaning/dp/B0058I7CVE/

I found them to be more trouble than help, though, and stopped using them.

Here is a highly rated set of rings followed by a review that explains their limitations:

https://www.amazon.com/Mcoplus-MK-P-AF3-Automatic-Extension-Panasonic/dp/B00GU6OBU8/ref=sr_1_16?crid=1FF0HP96XN936&amp;keywords=micro%2Bfour%2Bthirds%2Bmacro%2Btubes&amp;qid=1640701664&amp;sprefix=micro%2Bfour%2Bthirds%2Bmacro%2Btubes%2Caps%2C115&...

Sorry about that, I completely forgot about it, here is the RAW file in question: https://drive.google.com/open?id=1J7Cf66PT17NADuiTxCn4V9XnYGHzcAM3

here is a screenshot from digiKam showing the preview of the RAW in the left and the editing window showing the same picture on the right, I have simply opened the editor.

https://cubeupload.com/im/lcbDCK.png

I pretty much use the 45mm for all my portraits. I only have a 14,17,and 45 so I never used the 75. I'm pretty sure I'll like the 75mm but I like that I can just take a day with just the 45 and be content with coming with other stuff besides portraits. If you want you can take a look at all my portraits in my IG accounts. All portraits are taken with the 45. aka.digi and guydigi (one column is all portraits)

If the Oly 25 f/1.8 is a little bit too much, you can also go for the Panasonic 25 f/1.7. It's a bit bigger (46mm front filter as opposed to 37mm), but a lot cheaper and comes with a lens hood: $200 regular, $150 new on Amazon most of the time, $128 used on KEH.

Yes, it's absolutely worth it to get a GX85.

Buy the two lens kit that includes the 12-32mm & 45-150mm lenses.

Brand new it's on pre-black Friday for about $590

Used, you can get a GX85 body all day for $314

Only consider a G85 if you plan to use the camera heavily for video as it's larger, heavier, and a little slower to use.

Panasonic Lumix GX85 + 2 lens kit (12-32mm & 45-150mm) is the best option for most people focused on photography. $597 USD

1. Search for a bottom plate or L-bracket like this one for the G100. If you need a generic, then SmallRig probably has something you can use.
2. Attach plate or bracket to distribute the force along the whole bottom of the camera.
3. Attach camera clip to the bottom plate or L-bracket.

Have you tried Exposure? - https://exposure.software/

I've tried the demo and was impressed at how speedy it felt. Not ready to ditch LR yet myself, but exploring options now and then.

If you're willing to do some additional work in post, you can take a panorama of shots and stitch with Hugin to capture the wider, static scenes. If not, a wide, manual-focus prime may be a good option. I picked up the Rokinon 7.5mm f/3.5 to slot into that role in my kit and have been pretty happy with it, though it's a little slower than I'd like. I've done some de-fishing with Hugin as well and got results I've liked, though I'm not printing huge.

I've done focus stacking the old fashioned way, with a manual lens on a bellows, and was never truly happy with the results, which was poor technique on my part. With focus bracketing in camera should work much better, as there will be consistent steps between shots.

Hugin is open source and can do focus stacking as well as stitching. It's worth checking out.

What is your method for denoising with Darktable? I believe the recommended method is a two step process using the profiled denoise twice, one with mode as non-local means and the blend mode uniformly set to lightness, and the next profiled denoise with mode as wavelets and the blend mode set uniformly to colour. More info can be found on the Darktable user manual.

I have also heard RawTherapee, another open source project, has good denoise tools but have yet to give it a real try. I would try those and see if you can get satisfactory results before trying paid alternatives.

Are you importing the mp4? These files are highly compressed and your computer may struggle with them. Try converting/uncompressing and you may have better luck.

This is a pretty decent free converter: https://handbrake.fr

I've been messing with Photoscan a bit :o only one or two scenes to try it out, it's so compute heavy :x I have a machine that is just standing around now though so I could put that to use, was thinking of getting a wider angle rectilinear lens for that purpose, not sure if it's really needed though.

When you say relight, do you mean you use the spherical HDR images to remove the original lighting and then use different lighting in the scene? I know Epic showed that kind of content creation for their Unreal Engine 4 demo :o but they say they're using a custom script so I'm not sure how to do that myself :D

Yes, very drooling. 3D scanning, light fields, photogrammetry. They are all things that seem like the future of photography to me :P At one point I thought stereography was as good as it would get when it comes to immersion and capture of reality, seemingly not so much anymore!

Out if interest, when capturing the source photos for a scan, do you use RAW or is that unimportant/a hassle? The amount of storage space the processes for these things use up is crazy, which is mainly why I wonder.

Well - I just found a deal on the E-PL6 w/14-42mm lens! Newegg has it for $250 after promo code EMCKKNS65.

(found on Slickdeals)

Do you have the 14-42 R II and 40-150?

For outdoors, your lenses will be fine. 14mm is fairly wide, most smartphone's default camera is an MFT 13mm equivalent. Many vloggers use a mini tripod for vlogging as it can help you hold the camera, and allow you to set it down on a table to record yourself doing something: www.amazon.com/Pedco-Ultrapod-Lightweight-Camera-Tripod/dp/B08SVWPFWV/ << has a picture of a person vlogging

For indoors, you might want a prime lens for more light. Here, a GoPro would suffer as well due to its small sensor.

A GoPro would be highly recommended if you're attaching the camera to a helmet or vehicle. The IBIS systems in cameras and smartphones aren't strong enough to deal with harsh vibrations.

I have this tripod

https://www.amazon.ca/Vanguard-VEO-204AB-Aluminum-Mirrorless/dp/B0723C6K4Z/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?dchild=1&amp;keywords=veo+204+tripod&amp;qid=1633906438&amp;sr=8-3

I would definitely not want to go much heavier than that personally (1.15kg). The carbon versions is 770g and I would seriously consider getting that instead.

My total camera weight is <650g. I have never noticed any shake or wind when using my tripod, but don't use it in any crazy conditions. Seems to be built pretty well too.

I've been using this Sirui tripod with my Em1 ii and I've been loving it.

It weighs less than 2 lbs including the ball head. Collapses very small and the action for unfolding and locking works very well.

It's also just over $100, so it's a great price.

https://www.amazon.com/Compact-Traveler-Lightweight-Panorama-Capacity/dp/B07KD3R47X/ref=mp_s_a_1_8?crid=2LE2IAHU4R06H&amp;dchild=1&amp;keywords=sirui+tripod&amp;qid=1633906680&amp;sprefix=sirui+&amp;sr=8-8

Please don't buy the last one before I get around to it ;) TTArtisan 40mm F2.8 APS-C Macro Lens Compatible with Panasonic M43-Mount Mirrorless Cameras Lens for G1、G2、G3、G5、G6、G7G85、GF1、GF2、GF3、GF5、GF6、GF7、GF8、GF9、GX1、GX7、GX8、GX9、GM1、GM5、GM10、GH1、GH2、GH3、GH4 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09H33KC5C/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_MA7A644AQXTX51XJZAM6

Nope! Well, yes but it comes with the mount. The lens is basically a giant screw with glass on it. You can get it here. Fujian 35mm f/1.7 CCTV cine Lens for M4/3 / MFT Mount Camera & Adapter Bundle Black Micro 4/3 M4/3 GF3 GF5 E-PL3 E-P3 E-PM1 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075RZT7P8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_DQ8CW2TP0DDJ6D5QXDAZ?_encoding=UTF8&amp;psc=1

They have mostly been problem free for me. However I would suggest you pick up a pack of the +12V batteries for the transmitter. They last a fair bit of time, but as they discharge, sometimes your distance to get the receiver to fire the flash decreases. Or if you turn the camera sideways where the body of the camera is kind of blocking the transmitter from the receiver, it may not trigger as the battery weakens. Those two things are good clues it might be time to check that battery.

The receiver just uses AAA batteries, but the transmitter uses these types...

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01GN6CTS0/

But initially you should be good for a few months so no hurry to get those batteries immediately.

Have fun with it. It was easily one of my better purchases of usefulness vs. the cost of a lunch.

I am new to all of this with a Lumix g7.

I was just browsing around and am wondering.

A Panasonic Vario 100 - 300mm lens cost around 500 bucks, new.

While looking that up, I came across this thing:

https://www.amazon.com/Opteka-650-1300mm-1300-2600mm-Telephoto-Olympus/dp/B01LXU7I90/ref=sr_1_13?dchild=1&amp;keywords=100-300mm+micro+four+thirds&amp;qid=1622510500&amp;s=electronics&amp;sr=1-13

and it is only 200 bucks.

What am I missing? Why is it so much cheaper? I figure I am missing some important spec to understand the difference in price.

I currently ordered this. But idk how well it will work. Still waiting on my camera to ship. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07CNPGRMQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glc_fabc_TW020ZVNAE932AFDWF55?_encoding=UTF8&amp;psc=1

Hi! I was also trying to figure this out and eventually went with the Gobe adapter (Amazon link below). It works totally fine but of course all manual control (aperture and focus). The fit was also not perfect (it can wiggle a bit with some lenses), but again it works great.

I’m actually getting rid of my Nikon gear so if you want I’d be happy to just send you my gobe mft/Nikon adapter for free. I’d just ask for you to cover shipping if outside the US. Just PM me shipping info and I’ll send it off.

https://www.amazon.com/Gobe-Lens-Adapter-Compatible-F-Mount/dp/B06XVYQFCB

I am an outdoorsy person just getting into photography.

I have a Panasonic Lumix G85 with 25 mm f1.7, 14 - 42 mm f3.5 - 5.6, and 45 - 150 mm f4.0 - 5.6 (all came together used on eBay) -- all lenses are Panasonic.

A large reason I purchased the G85 was for the weatherproof body. This was important so I don't have to worry as much when shooting / backpacking. However, none of these lenses are weatherproof.

1) How big of a detriment is it to use non-weatherproof lenses with a weatherproof body? (I assume this essentially make the camera 'non-weatherproof' again)?

2) What are the best ( reasonably affordable ) weatherproof lenses I could acquire?

&#x200B;

I am thrilled to have lenses allowing me to cover *most* focal lengths (initial plans was just to get the kit Pana 12 - 60). As someone who really likes funky shots and landscape vistas, I would say the main focal length I am missing / would be desiring right now is an ultrawide (Like this artisans 7.5 I could use for astro + landscapes).

So my problem: finding a weatherproof lens which would be sensible to have backpacking but also is not an unreasonable overlap with a different lens I have..

I feel like a weatherproof lens to protect my camera makes sense, but logically it feels like I should fill in focal lengths I want like that wide lens (and it being on sale right now).

I'd check on prices of the lens. I found an old Canon FD 50mm/1.8 for $10 (including camera) so a $25 adapter wasn't a deal breaker. Would I prefer a Pana 42.5? yeah, but that's 12x the cost.

FWIW, answering your question, all the dumb $25 adapters seem about the same quality from what I've gathered. mine is from "K&F Concept" and I picked it only due to lots of reviews, mostly positive, and seemed to be all metal construction. -- I guess realistically a plastic adapter might be more safe (that plastic would break before a camera mount would,) but honestly you should be fine.

(mine: https://www.amazon.com/Concept-Adapter-Olympus-Panasonic-Cameras/dp/B00LECYK0Y )

I bought this. I got the carbon fiber version, and I just noticed that amazon doesn't have it available anymore. But I always see near- identical versions from other brands. I looked for a tripod that could fold down the smallest, this one fits on the inside of my northface recon bag during flights, and out in the side bottle mesh when I'm out hiking. Very light, which can be bad if it's really windy. But then I'd hook my bag on the center column for more stability.

Indeed but it was like 12 bucks on amazon

https://www.amazon.com/Fotasy-AMFD-Thirds-System-Adapter/dp/B003MDWG68/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1526675766&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=canon+fd+to+m43+adapter

here is one for example

Oh yeah? I'm not familiar with them really but a very talented local photographer friend of mine recommended I do my research there. Where would you go for camera advice?

Ok that makes sense. I was worried about the two systems interfering with each other, but if it defaults to a good solution then I'm not concerned about that anymore.

Ah, yeah it's the same as amazon now. So would you recommend this one over the 40-150? https://www.amazon.com/PANASONIC-45-175MM-F4-0-5-6-MIRRORLESS-H-PS45175K/dp/B005J5TZWK

I got this grip for my em5

Fotodiox Pro, All Metal Black Camera Hand Grip for Olympus OM-D E-M5 Mirrorless Digital Camera with Battery Access https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00N1Z7VG2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_fI-wBb60FD1E4

I looked and didn’t see any grip extensions on amazon for you. They’re less common with the DSLR styled cameras. But Sony makes one for their A7 line so I wouldn’t be surprised if I could find one for you googling it for a bit

I settled around a common 67mm filter size (cause of the PL8-18) and so I tend to carry 3x filters of that size for most of my larger lenses, this is one of the smaller pouches I found on Amazon at the time... It says it'll take up to 77mm but that seems like a push, it's just right with my 67mm and the padding is enough that I don't worry about squeezing it in a side pocket, etc.

When I had a Thinktank Turnstyle it would fit on the bottom (when worn) towards the wider side of the bag, and on my Peak Design 10L Sling it'll actually fit inside the zippered pocket located along the top flap (where the batter pockets are, etc.).

Hey it was actually this fisheye from amazon:

https://www.amazon.com/FOTOMIX-Fish-Eye-Olympus-Panasonic-Fisheye-m4/dp/B076TZ5PK9/ref=sr_1_10?keywords=fisheye+lens+m43&amp;qid=1569359748&amp;sr=8-10

I think it may actually be non standard.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0751BNWMT/ worked for me with an em5 mk2 firmware upgrade.

(obviously with Amazon blending inventory who knows if you’ll actually get an equivalent object to my order of this listing)

For a single (or up to 4) speedlight(s) in non-critical applications, the Amazon Basics flash and Cowboy Studio radio trigger will set you up plenty well to learn how to use off-camera lighting. The difference it makes with just this $50 setup is incredible; I've been using it with my E-M10m2 for a couple years now.

That's a tough one. I know it's out of your spec, but the 7artisans 7.5mm has been absolutely the most fun lens I've ever owned. It's all manual, but since it's so wide basically everything is in focus anyway, and it's cheap as dirt as far as lenses go.

You have to turn the lens a bit to extend it, before it can be used. Most lenses do it via electric motor when you turn on the camera, but since this is so small and cheap it doesn't do that.

However, you can get automatic lens cap from JLL (which is compatible with both the lenses you are comparing) which imo makes this non-issue.

Try amazon smile to donate to a charity of your choice automatically at no cost to you!
https://smile.amazon.com/Z-014-42II-Olympus-M-ZUIKO-Panasonic-Cleaning/dp/B0716FJSTL
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The only thing on my wish list that seem to be on sale are the SanDisk 512Gb cards:

https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B07H9VBM29/?coliid=IBH65CYTKFI3J&amp;colid=SUZHQV7IQR28&amp;psc=1&amp;ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it

Just a cheap slip on hood type similar to this: https://www.amazon.com/Wendry-Portable-Photography-Diffuser-Foldable/dp/B087GKN17H

I just got the flash yesterday and will be experimenting with some others (it looks a little "flashy" to me currently).

I was previously using my e-m5 ii for macro with 2 fl-300r flashes and no diffusion attached to the lens with a mount I designed and 3d printed https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3746236

This was the recommended teleconverter - would you agree? https://www.amazon.com/Olympus-MC-14-Teleconverter-M40-150mm-Lenses/dp/B00NGSLSOK

For what it's worth, I'm pretty sure aperture-capable macro tubes are more or less all the same. I bought ones that look like your bhphoto link off Amazon for $25. Not these, but they all look identical anyways.

https://www.amazon.com/FOTGA-Extension-Olympus-Panasonic-Cameras/dp/B00CANGBIK/ref=sr_1_4?dchild=1&amp;keywords=macro+tube+m43&amp;qid=1588780120&amp;sr=8-4

I love my 3 Legged Thing. It's carbon fiber and I think I paid $280 on Amazon or B and H. It's light, sturdy, and folds up pretty small. The center post is removable so you can get very low. For hiking, I replace the rubber feet with spikes.

https://smile.amazon.com/Legged-Thing-Carbon-Fiber-Tripod-AirHed/dp/B075DWGJS1/ref=sxts_sxwds-bia-wc-p13n1_0?cv_ct_cx=3+legged+thing&amp;dchild=1&amp;keywords=3+legged+thing&amp;pd_rd_i=B075DWGJS1&amp;pd_rd_r=81a9d0c0-9992-45ee-bdf8-fa697de5623d&a...

That's fair. I have a bunch of 32gb cards laying about from various devices and extras are pretty cheap these days. (can't comment on the speed/quality of this card. Just an example)