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You could do something like this if you don’t want to move plumbing
American Standard 9038804.002 Spectra Versa System with Rain Showerhead and Hand Shower, 1.8 GPM, Polished Chrome https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B07X51QQW8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_n7ylFb1Q88JQV
Rev-A-Shelf 5PSP-15SC-CR-6 15-Inch Chrome Soft Close Blind Corner 4 Shelf Slide Out Kitchen Cabinet Organizer, Silver https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01D0FW71G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_0W4YQ5M6GF1YCKTVKEMC
A little pricey but after dropping $20k not too big of a deal. This should be able to detect any air leaks pretty easily. Definitely should have the installer correct and issues.
You don’t need to be an engineer :) just a bit creative.
We put little dollies like these underneath all her appliances and slid them into the appliance garage in the corner. Her instant pot, her toaster, her keurig, and her blender live in there. Then her kitchenaid is in the cabinet to the left underneath that in a lift like this. Above her appliance garage, we just put giant lazy Susan so she can spin it and get to whatever she needs.
We bought this one, but there are a bunch of similar ones out there. I had to suck the soap through the tube to prime it initially, but it's been working great so far (about 6 weeks).
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07SJ8SQ6Q/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apap_gCzvW85YDebIj
Make sense, so like this is what you're thinking?
Wow. I love your attic! It's beautiful. Here's the style of window unit I'm looking at for my own attic so it doesn't block all the natural light: https://www.amazon.com/GE-ClearView-Conditioner-Installation-Energy-Efficient/dp/B09HDT9C4G/
A wall stopper or a door hinge stopper would be the best options. I understand you're not wanting anything on the floor because I hate things I can walk into. My mother-in-law's house has hinge stoppers for some of her diagonal doors and they work pretty good. https://www.amazon.com/Pack-Hinge-Stopper-Rubbed-Brass/dp/B07VDP7SPK/ref=mp_s_a_1_6_sspa?adgrpid=70666740627&gclid=CjwKCAjw46CVBhB1EiwAgy6M4k9VdaOx1pKD0Q8PUe7-Dz0ziTDehPWaapxqZbYbl5YbB6VIJKL2TRoC8nIQAvD_BwE&hvadid=580828737262&hvdev=m&...
Tempaper Black Damsel Removable Peel and Stick Floral Wallpaper, 20.5 in X 16.5 ft, Made in the USA https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08WFJKJ5S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_KE38B3WP7Z2DPJ3VY6NK?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
This is going to be superior to any drywall anchor. This would actually be able to carry a lot of weight frankly. I know there are people in this thread saying not to do anything heavy, but honestly, this would likely be able to carry several hundred pounds.
Think about it. If this can carry 265 pounds, then what you have there can carry that and more.
That said, why not cut two more 2x's to length between those studs and get those pieces to be carried by the actual studs?
Dearest OP, Thanks for the photo updates. 1. Is the issue on the outside coming from the crack in the corner where the cement meets cement and is cracked? 2. Or still on the exterior, is the issue behind the siding and the cement where we cannot see it? 3. The solution to both would be to spray the cement area with a house, scrub with a stiff scrub brush like this.
Then using a quality slab sealant like this slab sealant
Outdoor roller shades to be exact.
This is the programmable switch I used for the hot wire: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B074JDYN28/ref=cm_sw_r_awdo_S472YA6E1JMTJ8732N8R
This is the hot wire I used, seemed like the cheapest I could find. Turned out to be a finely constructed wire when I inspected it. https://www.appleton.emerson.com/en-us/shop/appleton/commercial-residential-solutions/easyheat-warm-tiles-dft-cables?fetchFacets=true#facet:&partsFacet:&facetLimit:&productBeginIndex:0&partsBeginIndex:0&orderBy:0&partsOrder...&
I bought this wire at my local Menards. You can go to that link and click where to buy to find who sells it locally around you. Our Menards popped up when I tried. It was $120 and I believe it was about 50-60ft of wire.
That’s literally all there is to my tile heater.
We used a pressure mounted gate that has the swing open door. Was perfect since we didn’t have to permanently install it and was way easier to get in/out than climbing over. tension gate with walk thru
You may want to invest in a tubshroom. Makes it easier to periodically clean the drain instead of waiting for the massive clog down in the pipes.
For pics. Upload to imgur and add them to a reply or update the main description with the links.
Hair dryer + car detailing plastic razor for the bulk of it.
Then gentle solvent like the goo gone
Plastic Razor Blade Scraper, 2PCS Scraper Tool https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08YF7TFJD/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_i_Z6C0PTJBQDCYV6Z8B019
An eraser wheel like this for a power drill: https://www.amazon.com/Adhesive-Remover-Graphics-diameter-threaded/dp/B00063VT0G/ref=pd_lpo_1?pd_rd_i=B00063VT0G&psc=1
It's the best way to remove old stickers and decals, I have been using them for years on old stubborn decals and trim on cars. Just use a bit of your favorite cleaner afterward to get the leftover residue. Here is random youtube vid to show you how it works: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0WZQ-EDInZI
So…straight talk time…asking this question tells me you’re going to have a very, very difficult time cutting and installing the window sill from PVC. Unless you’re willing to learn DIY by investing the time googling and watching numerous YouTube videos and investing in basic tools for this project (circular saw, jig saw, oscillating tool, or their even cheaper unpowered equivalents), you really should consider calling a handyman for help. Seriously.
Nail holes are filled so they’re not visible. Take a razor knife and cut all caulk around the trim boards. Use the thin putty knife to start prying the trim off. Finish by prying with the thicker painters tool. Put a rag behind the tools to protect the tile if needed. Don’t break the boards so you can use them as templates.
If you’ve never caulked before, I highly recommend the caulk gun below. It’s slightly more expensive but will prevent getting caulk everywhere and you’ll have a better finished job.
Warner Manufacturing 11501A ProGrip Series Painter’s Combo Pack, 5-in-1 (10971A) & 1-1/2” Full Flex Putty Knife (90127A), Pro Paint Tool, 1.5 Inch & 5-1, Red and Yellow https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B09FR4S571
Dripless Inc. ETS2000 Ergo Composite Caulk Gun https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B0002CKG1O
I had a window in the shower at my last house. I got one of those plastic pull down blinds. Provided privacy and blocked water while the shower was on.
Vinyl Roller Shade - Easy To Install Cordless Room Darkening Blind for Office and Home (Window Images) (White, 37.25Wx72L) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08ZGDVLC8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_HC7F211KHR2N2E0C1BC5
So I finally got around to finishing the drywall and now I want to buy the wood shelves and am trying to think of ways to match the image that I posted. I just can’t think of a way to have it be completely invisible like the photo (I don’t want visible brackets, pipe supports or to build a box), I just have no idea how they did it. The best I can think of now is to have about a 3” thick piece of wood for the shelves and put cleats on it like you said. I’d put the cleats on the three sides that touch the wall and I was thinking of using this:
2'' French Cleat Picture Hanger, Heavy Duty Aluminum Z Clips with Screws, Interlocking Wall Mounting Brackets for Hanging Panel, Whiteboard, Cabinet, Shelf, Headboard, Art (2 Pairs, Support 30 lbs) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B092S12Y62/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_D0KJNYEAMKE5CZZ0Z89X?psc=1
Do you think this would work? Would it be nearly invisible?
Before I made the decision with induction (though I had been thinking about it for some time), my wife got me an induction portable cooktop to try out first.
I absolutely love it - super fast boiling, AND it's not even highest wattage since it's only portable. I recommend trying this first before going full induction just to see if you like cooking on it.
In my experience, the learning curve is knowing what number to set the heat at, which is just as arbitrary as how big a flame is. But once you're good with that, it's pretty great.
Now, it's just a matter of which induction range to get. Unfortunately, at 36", there are very few options as it's a niche corner of the market for induction at that width.
That is technically a recessed lighting. The junction box/all in one method is ideal for space and heat and cost. At this point if you want a more recessed light, you need to pay to have them replaced. Its like saying "I want brass fixtures" then want the fixtures to be more brassy and saying you want different fixtures. Its fine if you want that, but just have to pay for the work.
To install a conventional can light may be precluded by how much space you have. It may also require having drywall work done on your ceiling.
The easiest thing is to get an all in one light that is more flat and just do a swap.
These may be less pronounced than what you have now.
Sunco Lighting 5/6” LED Disk https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07R23N88M/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_RX910B7SGAQT57CK5V1T
For shower head I installed this rain/mag combo from Moen. It’s a really great shower head and also no need to install a bar system for the wand. At a normal downward position mine easily reaches 60”…but you can power down the selection. The pure rain head probably goes only about 48”.
Your design is slick but I really can’t help you with the glass dimensions. Where is the drain, on the wall where the shower head is currently? If so as long as the pitch comes out as far as you can then should be ok. I might change to external wall though to be safe. Good luck!
Moen 26009 Engage Magnetix 2.5 GPM Handheld/Rain Shower Head 2-in-1 Combo Featuring Magnetic Docking System, Chrome https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07BS2W1PW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_CVQKXAHZ5PVXV3FQCX1A
I have a version of these from Lakeland, definitely the best ive used. And not the awful Tyvek kind. But I think this is a close match.
I suit up for everything now, even just painting : )
AMAZING Blue Coverall with Hood, Elastic Cuffs, Ankles, Waist, Zipper. Large SMS 50 gsm Industrial Overall. Unisex Disposable PPE Workwear for Cleaning, Painting. Lightweight Full Body Protective Suit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08SBNHKQQ/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_BMRB0NV53TDKGCDEV01D
So cheap, so easy.
Sunco Lighting LED Shop Light for Workshop Garage 4FT, Plug in Linkable Industrial Utility Fixture, 5000K Daylight, 40W=260W, 4000 LM, Integrated T8, Hanging/Mounted, Pull Chain, Energy Star https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07D94M16B/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_NQY28RJAHGPRCRNXT5S2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Also you can download AutoCAD or Draftsight and use it to do the drawings under the trial. If review goes outside of that you could use the other software to make modifications. Just make sure the programs are .dwg compatible with the version year.
great tips, i had the same thought about small tile on the shower pan that could be reverted to if this idea is too much work.
i found these which could help make it easy to extend the supports down into the deeper parts of the shower pan.
does stainless stain tile? thats a good tip. i wonder if this kind of thing could be found in brass. i had never heard that before.
thanks for the tips, i like the forstner hole idea. i was planning on using ipe 1x4 decking instead of teak, just to have it basically ready to use and pretty water proof. i for one dont mind grey ipe, so that may be where this ends up.
Course not I think it’s a mighty fine tape measure
Something like this will help.
Shur-Line 6630C Premium Twist 'N Reach Premium Extension Pole w/ 9-Inch Roller Frame, Extends up to 3 Feet, Cushioned Comfort Handle https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000BPAVPI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_JT7594YZTV3Q1HD3X7T8
Need to probably find a creative way to tape
Style hood is ductless. This one to be exact Cosmo 63175S 30 Inch 380 CFM Wall Mount Kitchen Range Hood with Soft Touch Digital Push Control and Energy Efficient LED Lighting, Stainless Steel https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01DN00K0S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_0S4V4V6673BRQ5FR3124?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Some of the black staining might just be from soot. I used this cleaner to get a lot of black soot off my fireplace when I bought our house. I’m not sure about the red spots and gray spots and some of the black bricks, because I agree that looks like old paint. For removing paint from brick you’ll probably need to try a chemical stripper.
You could buy a fancy stereo w/ bluetooth built in, or a mini amplifier w/ bluetooth. You'd probably plug it in.
Something like: https://smile.amazon.com/Bluetooth-Mini-Stereo-Power-Amplifier/dp/B00MIYF1DW (no idea if this is a good one or not, just what popped up)
Careful!!! How old is your home. There is a very small but likely chance you just drilled into an asbestos cased duct or vent pipe. And yes, I’ve seen asbestos in powder/paste form wrapped around vent, stack, and electrical conduit.
There should not be any drywall behind drywall unless someone shoved some in as a shim to hold up the fire block while nailing... but framing is done before drywall/plaster, so that doesn’t even make sense. If you’ve got the grey paint, maybe open your the mail all between studs to see what’s going on in there.
I personally have a $15 Bluetooth scope camera from Amazon that links to my phone(maybe it’s wifi... but it essentially makes its own network with your phone and works on iOS and Android. . https://smile.amazon.com/Graysky-Industrial-Waterproof-Inspection-Compatible/dp/B07ZGFJKG6/ref=mp_s_a_1_10?dchild=1&keywords=Bluetooth+borescope&qid=1618891252&sr=8-10 (Note shipping dates when checking models/prices). I have had this one for 4+ years and it’s saved my ass more than 10 times.
Or this cheaper one that plugs right to phone(read reviews to make sure it works with your model of phone). https://smile.amazon.com/3in1-5-5mm-Hard-Endoscope-Android/dp/B07MM2TLN9/ref=mp_s_a_1_144?dchild=1&keywords=cell+phone+inspection+camera&qid=1618891127&refinements=p_85%3A2470955011&rnid=2470954011&rps=1&sprefix=cellphone+i...
If you want to leave the old box, just buy a double size cover with only 1 opening. (Or a blank insert for the 1.) https://www.amazon.com/Leviton-80608-W-Combination-Wallplate-Thermoset/dp/B000U39WQA
If you want to actually just have a single size cover, gotta swap the box AFAIK.
I like the look of something like this, a textured, sculpted look and there are lots of patterns to choose and they can be painted your desired colour. I find they really add an additional layer of interest via texture rather than colour, something that fits well with natural tones like the ones on display here.
It'd get a bigger tv. Center it. Use one of those pull down mounts when watching and back up when not.
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B077YB196D/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabc_fRQPFb7N0Q6TD
Obviously if you have more budget you could do A LOT more.
I believe the connector you have is this https://www.amazon.com/Tiger-Inspired-LED-Connector-Terminal/dp/B07QJ4HVZ8
It's got screw terminals for your power wires and then clamps down on the copper contacts of your LED strip.
You'll have to get to the screws which are hidden under that stone tile to remove and replace it. Either your LED strip went bad, the connector went bad, or something's wrong with the power. Not sure if there's a transformer on the other end of if it's wired directly to a switch.
I would start maybe with a new LED strip since that's the easiest to replace in this situation, then try to get access to the screw terminals and replace the connector. It looks like its probably wired directly to those switches below so I'd look at the wiring inside that switch box.
I can't really tell what you've got going on there. The ending looks like it MIGHT be a push-in ribbon connector. They're usually 2 parts -- you open it, push the two together, then close it. That would be the blue circled thing I'm guessing. That gray bit may be able to be pushed away from the strip, but it's hard to tell from image.
However, the long & short of it is that you've got basically 2 wires there in the LED strip -- a positive and negative. You can see the labels on the strip (highlighted in my image above). You can also see the copper connectors and the line where you can trim the strip to length. As long as you get the power to the similar connectors under that circled connector (or to the next set of connectors that I've highlighted) you'll get light. (If you skip to the next set of connectors, the skipped LEDs will not light but the rest will.) You could just solder some speaker wire from the green connector over to the corresponding spots on the LED strip, or buy another LED connector to do the same thing. Something like these (but check the size) https://smile.amazon.com/HitLights-Connector-Include-Solderless-Splitter/dp/B07XDVNDZQ
Hope that makes sense.
What size is the tv you want? I was in a similar position and found some on Amazon but the had to be 55" or smaller.
Almost bought this one. which is 9.5 inches.