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Damn I feel you bro. Hey I just remembered I found this soft top for sale for very cheap on Offerup. Here's the link! Looks like the rear window needs to be replaced but other than it looks good.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0055PH0XA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_7i2.FbTMGBTTA
This plus the short arm suction cup mount is super solid. I use it to record videos on track.
That plus the arm and the 4 hole mount work with the Modifry bracket well.
Also, those microfibers are cheap chinese trash. They may be OK at first, but they will likely harden after a few washes and scratch the finish. Get some Chemical Guys microfibers off Amazon if you want towels that will last and are fairly cheap.
https://www.amazon.com/Chemical-Guys-MIC_506_12-Professional-Microfiber/dp/B00A8MZ7IA/
Accident photos posted; on his YouTube page. Sad to see another s2000 go. Luckily the owner survived the crash hope him well. Be careful out there.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009DJWGKQ?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2_dt_b_product_details
These from amazon are actually pretty decent for the price if you're running stock ap1. I have a stock ap1 bumper and the fitment is surprisingly well not sure about ap2 fitment though.
I've never been a fan of cutting into factory wiring to power stuff and while the s2000 has a few spare fuse terminals under the dash that only scales to one or two devices. I need to provide power for two SPA digital combo gauges, a boost controller, and the V1 radar detector so tapping into wires and using the extra fuse terminal won't work. To provide enough circuits for this stuff I installed a small six circuit fuse block from Amazon.
The extra fuse terminals are themselves fused by a 40 amp fuse under the hood (fuse 42) and each of these devices should draw no more than 1-3 amps each so I feel pretty good about it. I'm going to clean up the wiring with better sheathing and heat shrinking when I install the gauges and boost controller, this was mostly a mock-up to get the V1 hard-wired :). The fuse block being slightly tilted makes my eye twitch and it needs to come over about an inch to the left.
I also added a microphone for the stereo's bluetooth feature. It's just to the top left of the dome lights and is pretty stealthy. I don't think you can really see it unless you're looking for it. Head unit is a Kenwood KDC-BT885U with Modifry wiring harness and DCI. I'm cleaning up the dremmeled out stereo door later today, I just wanted to make sure that that would clear the radio controls before committing to a nice looking job.
It's a great looking hardtop it does the job; use this tape on all of the bottom seals https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B013H8QDQG/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 it can rest of the seals/paint and not mess it up.
You don't need alot; i even put them ontop of the hard to rear latches helps alot with the creeking; use memory foam inside the top latches makes it alot better
Fun to browse at. This would be my pick if I needed to pick up one. No pictures of the top concern me, but looks very clean for the miles. Mine is right up there with his, so mileage doesnt concern me much if its up on service and has been kept mostly stock.
I got an M10x1.5 bolt and used my power drill to make a poor man's lathe. I used 40, 80, then 800 grip sandpaper. Some of the leather finish flecked off when I tok the painters tape off, but overall I'm pleased with the result. I may try to get some paint to touch up the numbers.
Don't use actual polish unless you want to look like this
I bought one by this company years ago. Mine doesn't have fabric on the opposite side this like it shows in the pictures; mine has a plastic instead. It fits behind my seat and can pull it out when I need it:
Also recommend window tint whatever is your legal tint. It really helps with temps and I feel like it even slightly deadened the outside sound noise too.
I have the Budge BSC-2. Honestly just came recommended from my father in law who uses it on his chevelle (different size) and is very particular about products touch that cars paint
If you want a permanent way to stop any water getting in, I had success with this: https://www.amazon.com/Stormsure-Flexible-Repair-Adhesive-Black/dp/B00IHVJO4C/ref=sr_1_3?dchild=1&keywords=stormsure&qid=1624226876&sr=8-3
You basically put some clear tape on the top (to keep it from oozing out the top while you're working the area) and then smear some of this underneath and let it dry. It becomes watertight after it finishes curing but also remains flexible so it works well for soft tops.
If you're going to do this , 2 things.
Get a lumbar pillow , or do the shirt under the seat back cushion trick
Pick these up or something similar , you'll thank me later. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00RM6Q9XW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_umhaGb8G1XB7D
Get some SYLVANIA D2S SilverStars....
Slightly bluer than the OEM white/blue. They look great. And that's my recommendation.
But you could put any D2S bulbs in there. Color temp is the main difference you'll want to consider.
https://www.amazon.com/Sylvania-SilverStar-zXe-Daytime-Cornering/dp/B01KIVYE8Y
Thanks. I thought it was per dent. I have like 3-5 consecutive dents on each rear fender (it's the same door that keeps getting opened against my car). It's much less painful to pay for 2 panels than 6-8 dents LOL
I ended up buying yesterday some magnetic door protectors:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07L43Q23M/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
What about those paintless dent removal kits that use the glue gun, like this one.
Do these actually work?
It's great stuff. I use it to remove cone scuffs from autocross. here it is on Amazon. They also sell it at Pep Boys in their 'speed shop', if you need it quicker.
Hardtop owner here
1st thing thats pretty normal for them to move a bit buy some memory foam and put them inside of your latches and ensure your latch screws are very tight; I would then for rattles put felt tape under all of the seals of the hardtop this will help alot https://www.amazon.com/J-V-Converting-FELT-06-BLK0755-Polyester/dp/B00ZBH3QIU/ref=sr_1_1?dchild=1&keywords=felt%2Btape&qid=1600036275&sr=8-1&th=1
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You can open up the latches and ensure all the screws are tight add the memory foam inside of the latches it will help alot
Hmm interesting I just received the lisle one from amazon and was about to return it since the caps don’t fit. Which adapter and cap did you use to get a tight seal?
Lisle 24680 Spill-Free Funnel https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00A6AS6LY?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
This is the one I got, I’m not sure if it’s the same one you have. I would love to use that one you linked but i don’t have compressed air which is a bummer.
Yeah, I was referring to that option. They are about $205 these days, seems supply has caught up with demand. I remember they used to be like $400 before. You can even get them from Amazon now.
One of my favourite upgrades!
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I hated taking apart interior things for modify so I did a seat bolt phone mount
Arkon Car Seat Rail Phone or... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00EHQMZ6K?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
It’s more adjustable positioning wise and it’s actually fairly stable despite using only one of the seat bolts. Cons are it robs a bit of space on right. I’ve used it for a year and half no issues
I used to have a screen in an old car that a bigger screen would extend out and flip up. I haven't looked but there might be something like that available. However, the shifter is in the way for it to extend out.
Here is an example of what I am talking about. I no nothing of the quality of this particular unit: https://www.amazon.com/Carplay-Foldable-Touchscreen-Supports-Bluetooth/dp/B096RST9BR/
I think it's vtec solenoid. The O RING you listed looks correct. These are the Vtec gaskets I am using. Kraken Automotive - Upper & Lower... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M3YQWXF?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share They have good reviews from s2ki and I have had no issues with them after track use. It's hard to tell in that area for pinpointing a leak. Double check your TCT and the oil cooler both can leak so give them a once over as well.
Buy good quality earplugs. They reduce the sound, not block it - something like these or eargasm's if you can afford them https://www.amazon.com/Fidelity-Musicians-Technology-Protection-Festivals/dp/B07GYXJZRY/
This is the one I bought for 3 cars, including the s2k. It fits into a CD slot or the grip will attach to a vent. I use the vent mount on the s2k, and the CD slot holder on my Subaru. On the s2k, I put it on the right vent next to the steering wheel. It's close to the controls and wheel, but doesn't block them. It works great, easily removable, doesn't get in the way of normal driving and is easily viewable. I does however block most of the air coming out of that vent. I am normally top down, so not a big loss for me.
I use the ESR Halolock. I have a magsafe Iphone so it works great for me. Also has a locking function for the vent which keeps it stable.
https://www.amazon.com/ESR-HaloLock-Magnetic-Attachment-Alignment/dp/B08HNBHSQV
I haven't seen it done yet , kind of tempted to but you can most likely mount this without too much work with the modifry dash bracket and it would be at a much better angle than the units that fit into the radio din slot. and then you would hook up the audio from this to the radio https://www.amazon.com/CARPURIDE-Receiver-Touchscreen-Multimedia-Bluetooth/dp/B09QSRLW8G/ref=psdc_172526_t4_B09F31YG6J
Thank you! Mini DA polisher, works great for sanding/polishing small areas. Mostly use it for headlights.
What would be the easiest way to go? Get an electronic crossover and remove my passive ones?
This is what I'm using. It uses the cd changer plug on the factory head unit, no splicing and easy to undo. It's been awesome. 3.5m, USB, and bluetooth.
https://www.amazon.com/BTS-HN2-Bluetooth-Streaming-Select-Vehicles/dp/B01JODG4EE
I’m all about keeping my S2K stock so instead of replacing the head unit I bought this:
Anker Roav Bluetooth Car Adapter... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0813L778N?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Had it for two years and the only downside is not being able to skip songs from the dash controls. But it’s nearly just as easy to reach next to my right elbow to use the button on the adapter itself.
This is the way. Though I'm using a much cheaper one and it's been great.
https://www.amazon.com/BTS-HN2-Bluetooth-Streaming-Select-Vehicles/dp/B01JODG4EE
There's no alteration to the wiring harness. The head unit has a port for a cd changer and the BT receiver uses that. Bonus it provides a usb port for charging the phone. I hid mine on the passenger side and just have a charging cable coming out from under the dash. Very easy to return to 100% stock.
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https://www.amazon.com/BTS-HN2-Bluetooth-Streaming-Select-Vehicles/dp/B01JODG4EE
I have this one:
Arcan jack
I still need to drive up on 2x6s, but once I do that, it can access the center point. The jack is a beast and weighs a ton, but I don't have to use it that often.
Hi, I use this Dashcam:
Limited-time deal: AZDOME M550 Dash Cam 3 Channel, Built in WiFi GPS, With 64GB Card, Front Inside Rear 1440P+1080P+1080P Car Dashboard Camera Recorder, 4K+1080P Dual, 3.19" IPS, IR Night Vision, Capacitor, Parking Mode https://www.amazon.com/dp/B091PRCJ5Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_dl_XQF7FJ1SP5X79S3A80D8
- the app is trash so don’t bother relying on it
- I honestly like this dashcam a lot and it’s various features
I have a few images on the install: https://reddit.com/r/S2000/comments/st51o4/dashcam_install/
I wanted to keep original shitty stock head unit and dash audio controls so I went with a basic speaker that wouldn’t need a lot of power. The Polk DB651 slim fit perfect and was a decent upgrade for $70. Ding forget the speaker harness adapter for $8
Btw, this is the funnel I used to help get all the air out of the system. It's not something that will get used often, but it sure made that job easier.
Lisle 24680 Spill-Free Funnel, Standard Adapters https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00A6AS6LY/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_AYH7KBNND12XTPM10TMT?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
This is the one I got based on recommendations from s2ki and here. Also used it for brake fluid.
The one I use is very similar - got it from Amazon on sale years ago. I think it was meant for a Miata but fits my mugen rep hardtop perfectly.
Heavy-Duty Hardtop Stand Storage Cart with Securing Strap and Generic Hard Top Dust Cover https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00J5RGQSE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_J8ZAF0M6A8V9K1BWZS82?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Thanks! What I ended up doing is buying this and only utilizing the top strap so it can go down lower:
For the plastic just use this works so good
Perfect for the AP1 black trim
Callahan CCK11222 [2] REAR Premium Loaded OE Caliper Assembly Set + Quiet Low Dust Ceramic Brake Pads https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01AH8BZP8/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_i_6T3W985PAEKHFC4W0A0X?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I used these calipers, work great.
The white on tan is my favorite too. Wish I would have waited but my silver S2000 was too good of a deal to pass up. Probably not still available but you never know
https://www.amazon.com/Mothers-05101-Mag-Aluminum-Polish/dp/B0009H519Y
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Thank me later works so GREAT! and it's cheap
There's a set on amazon (the ones I got) and there's apparently a sequential pair as well on ebay. On Amazon:
VTEC solenoid gasket. Still have these on. Replaced in 2019 and no leaks.
Kraken Automotive - Upper & Lower Vtec Solenoid Seal Kit Replacement for Honda 00-09 S2000 4-Cylinder https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M3YQWXF/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_5K7XJB4YCCR6HYW6FNS0?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I bought a knock-off one from eBay but the threads on the compressor screw were pretty much gone by the 16th valve since it is a steel screw into a soft aluminum thread and getting it to compress the spring flat and linearly was nearly impossible so I'd be sure to lube the threads if you go this route, or buy two. Like with the genuine one DIYGuys had, it had to be modified to clear the injector rail. Also, the magnetic Lisle retainer and keeper tool makes removal a breeze. It is marketed as a removal and installation tool but using it to install retainers and keepers is super difficult with the engine in the car and you will probably end up sending keepers across your garage like I did or worse, into into your engine if you don't plug the oil galleys.
MEWANT Hand-Stitched Black Suede Car Steering Wheel Cover Wrap for Honda S2000 Civic Si Acura RSX Type-S 2005 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07QTQDY2T/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_DDNX11V6HMH135ANDM6E?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1 , the one I bought sold out but this is the exact same one, sadly it’s marked 25 bucks more
I guess I am still part of the group. That car you went and looked at is listed on there, the guy is a part of the group lol.
Good idea. I ended up finding these: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07KSVXH7B/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_W3BQ1T7V6SWTZ8V15GS2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1 My thinking is drill out the holes for the 2.75” cap tangs and glue them for a little extra peace of mind
had these in the door (now I use them as rear speakers): https://www.crutchfield.com/S-iXw9XKp64yr/p_091165VB/Focal-Polyglass-165-VB.html
Now I have these: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00G48YJRW/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Here's the Amazon link, it's cheaper on Amazon
TuxMat Custom Floor Mats for Honda S2000 1999-2009 Models - Max Coverage, All Weather, Laser Measured - Full Set Includes Front Rows https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07ZS2TB17/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_929XSD56E7HC6XEJZJFF?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
You’re in luck, my car is also a 06’ RYP! It’s actually a stock steering wheel with an aftermarket wrap. It’s a DIY product sold by Mewant (https://www.amazon.com/MEWANT-Genuine-Steering-Accessories-Protector/dp/B07WPRPPH7?th=1&psc=1), they’re super affordable and not crazy hard to install. You will want to remove your steering wheel to do so though and the cover might be a little tight. Mine took some stretching to fit like it does. Not a complicated job by patience will help. Here’s an install video to get an idea of what the job is: https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=4chVQO5fzeo
I got tired of my car battery constantly dying during the pandemic and finally picked up this guy:
NOCO GENIUS5, 5-Amp Fully-Automatic Smart Charger, 6V and 12V Battery Charger
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07W8KJH44?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2_dt_b_product_details
I *love* the build quality and packaging and all the neat futures. Feels super high quality. Keeps the car charged, starting the car has never been smoother. Can support batteries much beefier than the S2000. Highly recommended.
Transponder Key for Honda Chip: Megamos 13 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0797ZPQSF/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_24J9MEA26GA0J2BSB64C
I purchased this shitty plastic key which had the glass capsule transponder in it. I think the glass is what Honda uses and it’s also much smaller than the rhombus one. The plastic key just pries apart easily with a screwdriver and you can pop out the capsule which is held in by a small amount of resin. I took the s2000 key apart by just prying one of the metal plates off from the top, careful not to scratch it.
I then used the dremel ball bit to drill through the plastic mold of one side, through the metal, but not completely through the plastic on the other side. The ball bit is perfect for this because it is the same diameter as the capsule so you just have to drill the length of it. The capsule fit in snug and was held in even more by the metal plate which I just popped back in, reusing the factory glue.
Kill is an exaggeration and not using the K&N filter that arrived with the FIPK is a good idea. I used one from AEM. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004HORV1G/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_image?ie=UTF8&psc=1 My photo is on the amazon page as well. Proper installation of the FIPK filter is shown too. Model AEM 21-2057BF also works if you like the black filter instead of red. To clean, just soap/water then dry before install. Cheers friend!
Genuine Honda 54106-S2A-003 Change Boot Holder A https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MPLSR5W/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_A0A35JD09HZ38R2Q3TJF?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Hey I got my package today from amazon. Looks like they have it back in stock. Call your dealer.
Ignore my feet and reversed shift knob 😶🌫️😶🌫️.
Few things to mention:
-I found this mount from an old s2ki post (I don’t recall the link, sorry)
- there is no interference with my right leg, 1st n 2nd gears, or head unit cover
-it comes with 3M tape but I left the plastic seal on it and using it as normal padding
- there is no loosing feeling or movement while stationary or driving
Links: - ProClip (https://www.proclipusa.com/vehicle/dashboard-mounts/10047-honda-s2000/2005)
- Magnetic mount (SCOSCHE MAGFMB MagicMount Magnetic Flush Mount Holder for Mobile Devices in Frustration Free Packaging, Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00I608BFW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_35DY8EP854BW37D87QEQ?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1)
Total cost: $50~
You can use this filter on the FIPK and it doesnt require cleaning like the FIPK does, since its a dry filter.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004HORV1G/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Speaking of phone mount, the Kenu Airframe is what I’ve started using recently and I can’t recommend enough. It doesn’t look hideous when it’s not in use and though the phone screen can get a little shaky, clipping it to the lowest fin on the air vent stabilizes it good enough for me.
Kenu Airframe Pro | Android Vent... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B074Q433TL?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Ce28s it is then.
I thought it was 45 as well but then I saw this link: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003UD8V78/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Might just be a typo though.
Get a flex head ratchet and the appropriate size 6 point socket. Not 12 point. It may be too damaged and continue to slip. In that case you need a damaged bolt remover (something like the link below)
Crescent 3/8" Drive 72 Tooth Quick Release Flex Head Teardrop Ratchet 11-1/4" - CRW10 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00EXX2JMW/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_HADCXR30AHN302B9F6YH
THINKWORK Impact Bolt & Nut Remover Set, 18 Pieces Bolt Extractor Tool Set, Stripped Lug Nut Remover, Extraction Socket Set for Removing Damaged, Frozen, Rusted, Rounded-Off Bolts, Nuts & Screws https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08KZMBKZP/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_Y6Y8AHVE4V4SVH0WAFFW?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Hi!
I use this bluetooth FM transmitter for music.
If you don't want it hitting your elbow as your drive (since it's plugged in to the 12 volt) you can buy a extension/splitter and run the transmitter under your passenger seat like I did.
Note that the microphone for phonecalls is located on the transmitter so if it is located under your seat it may not be able to pick up your voice.
Hi!
I use this bluetooth FM transmitter for music.
If you don't want it hitting your elbow as your drive (since it's plugged in to the 12 volt) you can buy a extension/splitter and run the transmitter under your passenger seat like I did.
Note that the microphone for phonecalls is located on the transmitter so if it is located under your seat it may not be able to pick up your voice.
Before I upgraded my stereo, a simple $20 bluetooth fm transmitter worked well for me. Here’s a nice small one that plugs into the cigarette lighter and doesn’t take much space. Limited-time deal: IMDEN Bluetooth 5.0 FM Transmitter for Car, 3.0 Wireless Bluetooth FM Radio Adapter Music Player FM Transmitter/Car Kit with Hands-Free Calling and 2 USB Ports Charger Support USB Drive https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07F2RTN5Z/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_dl_VHNQCA6NV5TZ7J3NYYJZ?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
CARPRO IronX Lemon Scent - 500ml - Stops Rust Spots and Pre-Mature Failure of the Clear Coat, Iron Contaminant Removal https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00I8ZHA2K/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_BY72Y6Q983991EE1VDPA
exhaust tips just use
Mothers 05101 Mag & Aluminum Polish
Inside and out it will look mint plus it's cheap
You are going to need a fuel pump that supports E85 and you will also need a wiring kit to support a fuel pump that draws more amps. You can get all of this at SOS but for fuel pump I think this https://www.amazon.com/WALBRO-HELLCAT-F90000285-UNIVERSAL-HIGH-PERF/dp/B07GVQ59LD
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This is the best pump for the $$ it's a bit over kill but you won't have to worry about the pump not being enough.
You will need injectors for E85 as well you want to run larger injector 1300 cc or higher depending on the power goals. Also factor in Gauges and Tune and Dyno time to ensure your car is running well. I would recommend ID injectors. I would also look into a test pipe for your Exhaust and a stock cat will rob you from power
I switched my radio head unit with this because it didn’t have a CD player so I wouldn’t have to worry about how big the back end was. It works really well, has Bluetooth and pretty good at adjusting the audio settings.
Then I go speakers to go with it. They actually fit-ish. I kept the same speaker ring housing but have to redrill the new holes. Other than that they don’t hit the other side of the door so it works out.
Overall I like the setup, but I’m planning on getting an amp and subwoofer soon. When you do order a new radio unit, make sure you get the modifry dci so you can connect it to the car. I’d suggest the plug and play
that Modifry setup will work most people but if you use a tall shifter knob you’ll hit your hand on that. I use a 9K Racing shifter and so I found a this mounting solution from Amazon and LOVE it. Arkon Car Seat Rail Phone or Tablet Mount for iPhone XS Max XS XR X 8 Galaxy Note 9 8 S10 Retail Black - SM688L22 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00EHQMZ6K/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glc_i_EIl5FbWS5RMJS?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Yeah I know I'm about to order but I'm looking around for something I could get sooner.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0142R3W60/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabc_OZBYFb7HH7TQX?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
This one looks similar and 2 day delivery.
Got it from Amazon! It’s quite pricey but really good quality and very adjustable.
Here’s a link Extreme Online Store for AP1 2000-2003 Honda S2000 Front License Plate Mount Tow Hook Bracket AP1 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01AX9BAME/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_fabt1_2M0UFb5SQ1P7F?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I had a flat 18 miles from the dealership the day I bought my car bc they forgot to change the valve stem. I immediately bought one of those tmps systems that screw onto your valve stems and have a little display unit. Was like $40 on Amazon and it’s solar powered. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B078RD479X?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
You'll probably want to get a dash cam that's on a pivoting ball joint mount. The one you link to wouldn't rotate in the right way to mount on flat surface pointing forward.
Here's an example of a dash cam, similar to the one you linked to that uses a ball join that can rotate in any direction:
https://www.amazon.com/N2-Pro-Infrared-1920x1080P-2560x1440P/dp/B0742J69SQ/
You could also buy an adapter mount with a ball joint for around $10 for the one you liked to
You may still have problems though, as it might not fully lay flat to point straight ahead
ModiFry camera mount that goes under the wind deflector (camera was definitely too heavy for this, basically just edited out all the parts that were a shaky mess).
Seat cover: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B076J2P569/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Works great but be careful about the top clip that goes over the headrest, it will wear the plastic backing on the back. Other than that it's fantastic, non-slip grip on the bottom so he's not sliding all over the place.
It could be the terminals, changing the battery would be the first priority unless you mean the terminal connectors on the wires that connect to the battery, in which case you can replace them with a distribution block like - https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B006PK9MIA/.
An auto parts store can test the alternator. Then keep checking codes and replacing things, O2 sensor and knock sensor failures definitely wont help it run well.
P.S. You sound like a very giving person.
%100 also use the oem honda grease to keep that babe lubed up https://www.amazon.com/Genuine-Honda-08798-9002-Urea-Grease/dp/B00BFDFYKW/ref=sr_1_1?dchild=1&keywords=oem+honda+high+temp+grease&qid=1597260777&sr=8-1
I replaced mine with 3m wrap off amazon. (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008OIQEG4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1) Results were excellent. You do not have to remove windshield molding, but you do have to remove the soft top molding and windshield cowl.
I found one on amazon Not sure if it’s the exact same one but it looks really similar
I replied to another comment on here: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01AX9BAME/ref=cm_sw_r_apa_i_V0rIEbDY4G111
When in doubt, amazon. Might take awhile to ship nowadays. But it's specifically made for the s and holds together nice. Quite adjustable too (tilt, rotation, and included spacer if desired)
As mentioned, you need the whole new lamp. The good news is, it’s only about $30 for a pair of new OEM replacements, and they take 2 mins to swap. I did mine last summer. You can even get them on Amazon.
Genuine OEM Honda S2000 Clear Side Marker Lights 33801-S2A-J02 & 33851-S2A-J02 (1 Pair) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B013ZFLJRY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_pPPvEbC8G8QXC
Sounds like the vtec solenoid gaskets I have a small leak on mine just ordered the gaskets on amazon
Genuine Honda 15825-PCX-015 Spool Valve Filter Assembly https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00P4CT2VC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_PYTsEbWVN5624
Genuine Honda 36172-P08-015 Solenoid Base Gasket https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007U6N8RY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_lZTsEbX2DWZBQ
i just went to ace hardware and bought some gasket material, then cut it in shape of the hardtop bracket and bolted it between the hardtop and bracket.
looks very similar to this stuff, iirc it was just called "gasket material" and came with a few little squares to use. - https://www.amazon.com/SILICONE-RUBBER-SHEET-ORANGE-COMMERCIAL/dp/B00XLVN5ZC
For the price I paid the quality is very good. All aluminium and very solid. The only thing I had to do is replace the lines that were provided, they were too flimsy.
I do not daily my S2k. It mostly sees weekend and autocross driving. I only purchased the catch can because on certain course configurations when autocrossing the car would suck a ton of oil through the PCV and puff a huge cloud of smoke out of the exhaust.
This is the catch can I purchased:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XK9PTP7/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
If you do decide to go get one I would recommend disassembling the unit and cleaning it out. There could still be burs/chips left from the machining possess which would be a nightmare if they were sucked into your motor.
Honestly I love them, I know some of the "purists" on here will knock them, but whatever, do whatever makes you happy and comfortable! Here's the ones I bought: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B076BTRVDK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_SH.aEbCX8GVHK
This tool works fantastic for filling transmissions and differentials
CTA Tools 7077 Extraction and Filling Pump with 1500cc Capacity https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BWB06XM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_2zUCDbD46HEW8
I use turtle wax wash and wax: Turtle Wax T-472R ICE Car Wash - 48 oz. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007KTINZ8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_EUOeDbJM1FW86
For interior I usually just use a diluted APC, or turtle wax interior cleaner, I’m sure there’s better out there but it works for me: Turtle Wax T484R ICE Premium... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071JDM1H8?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
And yeah, 2 bucket method. People recommend grit guards for your buckets too but my car doesn’t usually get dirty enough for me to warrant it.
I recommend a wash mitt, a bunch of microfiber towels, and a vacuum for the interior.
Also look into a leather cleaner and a leather protectant.
I have two of these and they work flawlessly. I like the options for different battery types as well.
NOCO Genius G3500 6V/12V 3.5 Amp Battery Charger and Maintainer https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004LWVEKS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_If28CbZVBHX6P
Here is the one I bought. Works great. High quality.
Foam cannon: SudMagic Foam Cannon Pressure Washer Gun - Brass Threaded Bottle (Lifetime Warranty) - Car Wash Soap Foam Blaster https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071G2RW8C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_YISeDbR80F0CG
Foaming soap: Chemical Guys CWS_110 Honeydew Snow Foam Car Wash Soap and Cleanser (1 Gal) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009OTW646/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_FJSeDb77RYZ1K
The soap is great. Highly rated and smells nice.
The foam cannon changes everything when washing your car!
Edit; I’m fairly sure that almost any foam cannon would work, but the one I got is a good one as far as I know.
You need a foaming type of soap. Can’t use your old on I think... but you can try.
Which Rupes would you go with? Range from 299 to 400+. I was leaning towards this one.
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https://www.amazon.com/Rupes-LHR21ES-Random-Orbital-Polisher/dp/B00F5MCF3S
If you're going to do DIY, I highly recommend Sylvania's restoration kit. I have used it on my daily and some of my family's vehicles as well. A headlight restoration kit is a huge waste of work if it doesn't include a clear coat! Here's the Amazon link to the product: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00429NKWK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_2W6uCb4YN50C1?th=1&psc=1
Like other mentioned, get the wheel woolies to keep the barrels clean.
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Unless the car is just going to sit in your garage and polished with a diaper then I wouldn't spend a bunch of money/time on it. Get one of the popular brake dust cleaners(like Sonax), do a good clean, maybe throw a cheap coat of wax on the inside barrel with whatever you have laying around, keep them clean with the woolies and then just go enjoy the car.