Not directly. All inputs are basically line level, which has much more power than raw microphones. You will need a mixer to amplify the microphone signal up to line level and then you can use that receiver to amplify it further to speaker level.
https://www.amazon.ca/Ultra-Low-Noise-Channels-Audio-Built/dp/B08NV8S6NM
The power cable needed for this is an xlr 3-pin power cable! It's the furthest left connection port. Cables like this will do -
Hope this helps!
So just to get a better idea of your background and questions. How long have you been recording/mixing? Also, are you looking for books, information just solely on “digital” techniques, like “In the Box”, using minimal external or analog gear, and more plugins of VST in regards to furthering your understanding of how digital can be and is used that way? Or more the recording process in general, and clarifying the concepts of “tape” recording through digital? Meaning you use an Audio Interface as a device to take make Analog to Digital and back Digital to Digital to monitor to ears (unless analog summing, different beast I won’t confuse you with lol) during tracking/mixing (even mastering) and understanding how process more or less works from start to finish? I’m far from a pro, but I definitely have a passion if you want to talk shop lol. Here’s links for red editing older and blue newer edition.
Newer: Understanding Audio (2018 Blue)
Older (2005 Red)
UGREEN Headphone Splitter 3.5mm Audio Stereo Y Splitter Extension Cable Male to Female Dual Headphone Jack Adapter for Earphone Headset Compatible with iPhone Samsung Tablet Laptop Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00LM0ZGK6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_PRDXG7G7KDXZXCP5V7ZB?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
NANYI Headset Splitter Cable for PC 3.5mm Jack Headphones Adapter Convertors forPC 3.5mm Female with Headphone/Microphone Transform to 2 Dual 3.5mm Male for Computer Y Splitter Audio(Silver) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07HXY9LV8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_DDNP2WGV6ZHG4ZBRKDM9?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Also... try a ground lift. It may be the power sources. This has helped me a number of times.
SYCON 3-Prong to 2-Prong Grounding Converter Adapter Plug for Wall Outlet, Orange 6 Pack https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07YC9GLQW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_H3K1B41053W9D8MNQQD1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
They look like standard barrel connectors. Bit weird to use them here as they are normally used for power supplies. Amazon sound have them. Or you could unscrew the wires from the plug and use wire nuts instead. May be a bit cheaper too.
Edit: here’s a link for the male connectors.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B079R94L4J/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_fabc_jT2PFbDY3FJDK
Now I’m not entirely sure about this but what I’m thinking is that the pre amp might be able to provide output through the dual 1/4 inch outputs on the back. I’m not sure if it’ll route through usb but if that’s the case, you could use a cable such as this one. According to the m-audio website it should be able to connect to a computer
These: https://www.amazon.ca/M-Audio-BX5-D3-Powered-Reference/dp/B01J66YEU0
Post a picture of the gap you are talking about.
I suspect a manufacturing defect - or they are a reconditioned/return that was played too hard. The cone should be sealed to the roll suspension. Only holes in those speakers should be the tuned port on the back.
Bridging Bar
See description of this connector panel from amazon https://www.amazon.ca/Plated-Bi-Amp-Speaker-Terminal-Binding/dp/B0002KQZUW
I spoke to Apple about this when my old MBP was in need of a new GPU and so ended up with a new (at the time) 2018 model.
What you have is their official answer to the problem. Thunderbolt 3 to Thunderbolt 2 adaptor and then Thunderbolt 2 to Firewire. As you’ve found, it works fine, though brings a new level of meaning to dongle hell.
The only other way would be to find one of the very rare Thunderbolt 3 docks that has a Firewire port. Very expensive though and I couldn’t find one that fulfilled everything I’d want from a dock (always that one thing missing), so I went the way of individual dongles.
On a side note: Not all USB-C to USB 3 adaptors are equal either. Some are notably slower at data transfer and some regularly drop drives for no reason (Amazon Basics 4 port for example). Really annoying.
For what it’s worth the following Anker mini dock has been extremely reliable and gives the expected transfer rates (no Firewire though):