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The most popular Products mentioned in /r/Soundbars:
The most popular Services mentioned in /r/Soundbars:
Slickdeals
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The most popular reviews in /r/Soundbars:
you can get something like this that connects the soundbar directly to the tv mount so whichever way the tv goes the soundbar goes with it
Right away boss! Micro USB Cable 10ft 3Pack by Ailun High Speed 2.0 USB A Male to Micro USB Sync Charging Nylon Braided Cable for Android Phone Charger Cable Tablets Wall and Car Charger Connection Silver&Blackwhite https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XYH75NQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_7MCXH54WDHEXAWM6YSG2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
USB Wall Charger, Charger... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0734SN6VR?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
This is the best you can get. The latest is hdmi 2.1 48Gbps. Which will last you quite a while into future technology.
Monoprice Ultra 8K High Speed HDMI Cable - 6 Feet - Black, 48Gbps, 8K, Dynamic HDR, eARC - DynamicView Series https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B07WNM2NJ5/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_0RJXSXH9N374YZGMWJ4B
The JBL Bar 5.1 Surround might be one to look into. I have been using one since its release and i am quite impressed with it. The surround feature cant compare to a full blown surround setup, but it does the job. You’ll be impressed by the power of the subwoofer too.
I've had the 7.1.2 for about 5 months. My rear surrounds are at ear level behind me:
Speakers face upward and I use the SSE3 setting. The Atmos is simulated but it sounds really convincing. VERY happy with the Nakamichi for movies and music...I'm not a gamer so I can't help you there...Good luck!
Good idea regarding the shelves. Behind this is a standing desk and computer with several feet of space. I ordered the following:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07928S1BR/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_GNJZGV7YY2CB7KZ7HP4W
And two:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000E0PPG0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_TVBXN245G0NZANN02J2K
With plans to use Velcro tape to attach the rear speakers but i wonder if it will look horrible. In which case I really like the idea of a shelf like you mentioned!
Nakamichi 7.2
Nakamichi Shockwafe Ultra 9.2.4 Channel 1000W Dolby Atmos Soundbar with Dual 10" Subwoofers (Wireless) & 4 Rear Surround Effects Speakers. Enjoy Plug and Play Explosive Bass & High End Cinema Surround https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07HHZ94BW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_fabt1_.2JTFb8Y968V8
Will be 100% with it for 788.
>Fakespot Reviews
Really? Trusted Pilot said otherwise: https://www.trustpilot.com/review/fakespot.com
Stop posting this kind of stuff that breaks businesses. It's a fair competition and up to oneself to hear for themselves whether this soundbar is a good soundbar. I can tell you that people like us who generally owns the soundbar can say it's an awesome system.
While most will suggest a sound bar with a separate subwoofer, I’ll suggest you something that I personally find very satisfying in terms of bass for a 12x12 room. Compact and overall very good.
VIZIO M-Series All-in-One 2.1 Home Theater Sound Bar (Renewed) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0935L1MH3/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_43G0ZZ2MZW2QAKZ1MQ2T
One example...
I wouldn't pick a TV based on it's stand sitting height... TV quality and performance are much more important.
The Hw-Q800A has true dedicated upward firing drivers (hence the .2) 3.1.2 and you have the ability to upgrade down the road with this set to 5.1.4 if you buy the additional 9500s wireless speaker kit! But to answer your question if I had to choose between those three, i've head the most positive things of the three about the Klipsch.
No problem. I also got this cable to power the switch off of the WP9's usb ports, since that makes the WP9 able to control 4 devices (soundbar, TV, chromecast, switch).
PK Power AC/DC Adapter for Samsung PS-WK360 Wireless Subwoofer Power Supply Cord Cable PS Charger Mains PSU https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XS9438N
Apparently is a wireless subwoofer so not sure what the ID cable is for... maybe re-pairing or something - likely not needed for normal operation?
Here you go: Vizio SB351-F6
$185, real 5.1 setup, supports Dolby Digital Plus over HDMI-ARC or HDMI IN, as well as regular Dolby Digital & DTS through HDMI-ARC and HDMI IN, Optical, or Digital Coaxial inputs. I have the older "E6" model and it's a great starter setup!
The only caveat I will add is that the HDMI IN port is HDMI version 1.4, meaning it's capped at 4k@30hz with no HDR, so don't plug anything that requires HDMI 2.0 like 4k streaming devices, new game consoles, or 4k blu-ray directly into it.
Luckily the fact that it has ARC, optical, and digital coaxial means you can still get discrete surround sound support by plugging those devices into your TV or directly into the bar.
Does the TV have a headphone out (3.5 mm) port? Depending on the age and quality of the TV, it may not support digital audio out over HDMI, and it almost certainly won't support volume adjustments through the TV remote with HDMI CEC. Better option may be some cheaper powered computer speakers hooked up with a 3.5mm plug. Would allow you to retain the volume controls on the TV remote as well.
Some like this are also USB powered, which might allow you to just plug it into the TV's USB port (assuming it has one) rather than taking up another wall outlet. You'd want to confirm the power draw and how much the TV outputs as well: https://www.amazon.com/Computer-Speakers-Desktop-Speaker-Cellphone/dp/B08C4P78DK/ref=sr_1_8?dchild=1&keywords=computer+sound+bar&qid=1614104322&sr=8-8#customerReviews
I don't have any experience with this particular produce, but there are thousands like it on Amazon. Just search computer soundbar.
I realize your wife doesn't want to replace the TV, but anything significantly more expensive than this, and it begins to look like the better option as you can get 32 and 24" sets for under $100 these days.
I have an LG SN7Y and I use the LG Music Flow app to update the firmware. After installing and pairing the device on the app, go to the app's setting from the left navigation menu and scroll down till you see Device version info. If there is a newer firmware available, the circular arrow will be enabled. Tap on that and keep your phone close to the soundbar. The app will start to download the firmware and installs it to the soundbar when ready. Keep the phone idle and do not turn off the soundbar during this process. Once done, the soundbar will turn off automatically. You can thereafter turn it back on and the app should show that the soundbar has been updated. Alternatively, you can also download fw from lg website and extract the zip content into a pendrive and plug it in the soundbar but somehow the update doesn't stick in my case, hence I resorted via the app. I think it should also work for the SN8YG
Damn.. I ordered this from Amazon I’m hoping it works. My setup wouldn’t look good with the soundbar on the wall. I have a full motion mount on the TV. :/
Not sure I’d feel comfortable putting something underneath, and not sure it would look good. I’ve got my eye on something like this but probably will spend a little more than $20 for the peace of mind.
Unless you mostly watch TV standing up, not ideal. Front firing speakers sound their best when they are closer to the ear level.
Have you thought about getting a VESA mount TV stand like this one? (I am not necessarily endorsing that particular product as I haven't used it, but something similar to it.) If you look at the product reviews, many use it with the soundbar underneath (there are few photos with a soundbar underneath).
So, what the Vizio has are called RCA terminals, what's in the wall is speaker wire.
There is a way to convert from one to another, so you'll need at least 4 male RCA ends (one each for the two sub connections and one for each speaker). Something like this: Amazon Link for 4x Speaker Wire to Male RCA Hopefully these fit into the smallish squared off holes in the satellite speakers and subwoofer.
You'll just have to be careful that you connect the +/- on one side of the speaker wire matching to the other end. You're gonna wanna cut down those ends and strip off 3/8" of insulation to reveal new bare wire, and when you do that you might be able to see a + or - printed on the wire insulation. Other common colors are red for positive and black for negative, or pink for positive and clear for negative. Just make sure to keep it consistent.
The other nice thing about speaker wire is that it's easy to extend, so if you need extra wire to reach your sub it's simple to patch in some more.
*EDIT* if you use these connectors I've attached, you would not need to use the included Vizio speaker wire - just the speaker wire and adapters. Just wanted to add that for clarity. Good luck and lemme know if you have any questions
I’ve been wondering the same, and haven’t found an answer.
In the meantime, I picked up this wireless speaker. It mostly works ok. The ‘mostly’ is due to 2 factors, one of which is my setup. 1) my tv has only optical out, so I had to use an optical splitter. This setup results in a tiny tiny delay to the wireless speaker. Nothing major but it is there. The other is that the optical input is pretty touchy. I have another cable ordered, in hope that it makes a more secure connection.
Magic Dream is said to work. I tried Sanus which had compatible hardware but bracket was suboptimal and it would not allow the power cable to pass-through inside the stand which was a deal breaker for me. I just ordered the Magic Dream based off user reviews who the Samsung 990 rear speakers. Crossing my fingers.
There are a number of HDMI audio extractors in the market if your soundbar has an optical input alongside HDMI ARC. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07H94D77V
You might be wondering HDMI splitter would work but I haven't found any that would work with an HDMI Display and an HDMI ARC soundbar.
Nope.
But you can use generic IR repeater if you need to control the bar outside it's line of sight.
https://www.amazon.com/Infrared-Repeater-Control-Devices-Extender/dp/B01N674PE9
Something like this will work fine. It just sees the incoming IR signal and shoots it back through wired IR blaster.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08XYJGGMK/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1
black friday was 199$ now price increased
SB36512-F6 has surround speakers. It is a decent soundbar for it’s price and size.
LG SK10Y and SK9Y https://slickdeals.net/share/iphone_app/fp/432766
This is deal for Samsung N950 $1099 https://slickdeals.net/share/iphone_app/t/12236881
Bestbuy will have the JBL 3.1 for $300 for Black Friday. It has a decent sized 10" sub. This was another one of the many systems I was looking into for myself.
If you are in the US, SK10Y is on sale often at $449 and SK9Y $339
Deal will be back every 1-2 weeks.
Open box rear speaker is $125 on Bestbuy eBay
The m51ax-j6 is not a Walmart special. It's an update to the m51a-h6.
The m512a-h6 is out of stock at BB. I was only comparing the two because they fit my specifications and within my price range.
Thank you so much. This has been more helpful than any googling I have done haha. Would this option work instead of the Arcana? Not looking into spending $300 on this as as that point I would rather upgrade my 6 year old TV.
Seems like this would do the trick? Would appreciate if you could take a look. Assuming if I use this though I would lose the ability to use the soundbar from any other HDMI inputs or the TV itself correct?
The Samsung sound bar has a hdmi 2.0 input port not a hdmi 2.1 port. To get the most out of having Xbox series S and a ps5 you need hdmi 2.1. You need to plug the sound bar in earc and you use 1 of the 2 hdmi 2.1 ports.
I got a hdmi 2.1 switch which I plugged both the ps5 and Xbox in.
HDMI 2.1 Switch 8K, AVIDGRAM HDMI... https://www.amazon.com.au/dp/B09Y91DRPP?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Bose TV Speaker or Polk Audio MagniFi Max SR
Both sound great , but if you want extra deep base buy Polo MAgnifi
This is the one:
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Some parts of the posting say weight limit is 13 and some parts say 20 so that's the odd part...
This comes with speaker wire and a 5.1.4 set. You just need to buy a 9.2 receiver. I also gave the link to the pioneer receiver which runs $799. So in total it would cost you $1200 plus tax.
The speakers are a good size and not massive.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08XYJGGMK
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Amazon is shipping this to India now. Lowest price. Shipping and import $135
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Total Cost = $334 or INR 28K
I ended up buying some small speaker stands (like these https://www.amazon.com/Stageek-Aluminum-Universal-Bookshelf-Computer/dp/B07SHCLR7T). I don’t notice a higher difference, but it’s nice to know I’m getting the proper clearance
Update: This is what I ended up using: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0875KY5NK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
It's not perfect. The soundbar cant be screwed into the mount. But the soundbar can sit on the "legs" of the mount just fine.
Thank you! Using your info I was able to find a set that had a thread that looks like it will work.
I'm going to try these since they have a lot of possible adjustments
I use this mount. It's rock solid, even with the soundbar pushed almost entirely in front of the TV. The upward firing drivers are entirely clear to do their thing.
No, they are not, sadly. This is the benefit of using a receiver, as the speakers can be re-used. My suggestion would be to upgrade to the HW-Q900T (renewed) 7.1.2ch soundbar and subwoofer in this situation.
The Samsung SWA-9100S rear speakers are
Compatible with the following soundbars
Q600A
A650
A550
A450
S60A
S61A
S50A
A55C
A60M
A45C
A50M
A40M
Q900T
Q800T
Q70T
S60T
On that is a good sound bar and doesn't break the bank the TCL ALTO 6+ gets some good reviews on it. My brother picked one up a few months ago to Bluetooth to his projector and said he was very surprised about how good it was for the money
Alternatively, you could also use the App from Yamaha, it also unlocks a few extra app exclusive surround options.
https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.yamaha.av.htcontroller
Well, bluetooth is roughly in the 2.4ghz frequency range, so anything in that range has a chance of causing interference. If your router is set to using 2.4ghz, it could be doing it. Bluetooth doesn't have as much range as wifi (I think only around 30f/10m), but Wifi can easily go to over 150 to 300 feet depending on how many walls and what they're made of are near the router.
EVERY connection in that range, if it's at 2.4ghz, could cause interference.
A good tool to get might be an app that does frequency checking on your phone, like this one if you have an Android phone. Anything in the 2.4ghz range has the possibility of interfering with bluetooth.
And, the app is just going to show you routers. But since wifi has such a larger range than bluetooth, it's not just the routers that are going to be potentially causing interference, but also your neighbors' devices. If they have, like 3 kids, each with their own phone/tablet/switch/etc, then ALL of that is going to be "noise" that could potentially mess with the connection between the soundbar and speaker, regardless of how close they are to each other.
I know that so many companies are pushing Blutooth for audio, but especially with the amount of signals we have flying through the air now with EVERYTHING having bluetooth/wifi always on and always transmitting, it's the absolute WORST thing to use if you want to make a stable audio connection, which requires a LOT of bandwidth. Maybe if you live out in the country with no neighbors for over 300 feet, it might not be so bad, but if you live anywhere even remotely urban/suburban, you're basically swimming in an invisible ocean of 2.4 and 5ghz that ALL has the potential of fucking with everything else in those frequency ranges.
I have the Q90R (2019) and bought these--
PERLESMITH Speaker Stands Extend... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07925B8PD?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
I am probably gonna get the Q990B on BF next month, and I would buy those stands again, they haven't given me any problems and I've been pleased.
So I am struggling to find a HDMI 2.1 (hdcp 2.2) extension with 2.1
Closed I found but doesnt look 2.1 https://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-High-Speed-Extension-Cable/dp/B07TVKQ2K3/ref=sr_1_3?crid=B4LDL56URCWR
You probably won't be able to find a soundbar that is below $1000 that'll support passing 4k@120Hz as of right now. Most soundbars will pass 4K@60Hz and HDR10 if the soundbar allows for HDMI passthrough.
You could consider an HDMI splitter (e.g., example).
Thank you for your reply. The issue is not really the price but a comparison between the sound quality of the systems at that given price. If we assume e.g. a soundbar cost $1,000 or $2,000 , for that kind of a price will it be better to get a soundbar or an AVR system? Now a days you can even get a cheap AVR system for about $500.
You can e.g. check a full Sony HT-A7000 system with rear speakers and sub-woofer can cost about $2,400 https://www.amazon.com/Sony-HT-A7000-7-1-2ch-Surround-Theater/dp/B09YVTN6H3/ref=sr_1_1?crid=1XOZGL9CKPDTI&keywords=sony%2Bht-a7000&qid=1664200744&qu=eyJxc2MiOiIyLjQzIiwicXNhIjoiMi4zNSIsInFzcCI6IjEuODUifQ%3D%3D&sprefix=sony%2Bht-a7000%2Caps%2C174&sr=8-1&th=1
Its just a normal power strip. Would something like this work? https://www.amazon.ca/AmazonBasics-Standby-UPS-400VA-Outlets/dp/B073Q48Z95/ref=sr\_1\_13?crid=5WMVXTUVKMW5&keywords=ups&qid=1663852043&sprefix=up%2Caps%2C296&sr=8-13
A set of these will probably deter your cat. Barring that, electrical tape should work so long as they're touch sensitive and not pressure sensitive. If they're pressure sensitive, you might tape some thin cardboard, like cardstock, to the top to spread out the weight of your cat so it doesn't trigger the buttons.
Have you tried something like this?
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07K8X8WDX/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1
It mounts to the back of the TV. Lots of little adjustments you can make to it to get it to fit to a bunch of different soundbars.
I'm not sure, but I see it available on Amazon here, and it lets me add them to the cart.
Thank you. Is it OK if I cheap out on the receiver? Just found this for less than $80
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>klipsch reference home theater which is a 5.1 system
Gotcha. Is this the system you're talking about?
This is what you need.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B073TTS9QG/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
This will split the audio from your source HDMI so you can use Optical (5.1) or Stereo outputs.
How about use these so you can have better positioning.
https://www.amazon.com/Sanus-Adjustable-Height-Speaker-Stand/dp/B002HZHUCW
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Maybe to the sides of the listening position or slight at the back pointing to the central listening position. Also maybe position the around ear level near the level of the sound bar? So that the audio calibration won't need to make such big adjustments for the delay and volume for the atmos ceiling bounced sound?
Could it be my cable, you think?
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B082775CMS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I'd rather not buy another one just to find out it's not it.
Your cable exactly is not available at the moment, on Amazon at least.
What about using a passive heat sink adhered to the hot/CPU area like the one below instead of a fan to cut down on noise?
So after looking at possible solutions for hours, I think what I wanna try and do, is such:
-have my 3 displayport 1440p monitors connected to my rtx 3080 like I already do
-plus the 1 HDMI port on the rtx 3080 into an HDMI splitter with downscaling capability. Something like https://www.amazon.com/HDMI-Splitter-1x2-60Hz-l-b-y/dp/B08D9BCX1R/ref=psdc\_3224457011\_t4\_B07R4X9KGC
-plug the splitter into my 4k projector, and a cheap 1080p tv that will have mirror image but different resolutions that will work because of downscaler on HDMI splitter
-plug ARC out on cheap TV into soundbar
I guess I will have to experiment. Fortunately these splitters are not too expensive.
did you get stand for the rears? i have a small 1 bd apt for the setup and need to find a good stand for the rears on amazon:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07N85RP2G/ref=ox_sc_saved_title_3?smid=A64SONN85Q5JH&psc=1
think these work?
Thanks for the response, I appreciate it. I saw the vizio M series. Ill post a link below, and it seemingly has good reviews and is a 5.1 and is only a little over 300. So far that one has caught my attention. Thank you again, i will look into the klipsch soundbars.
https://www.amazon.com/VIZIO-Theater-Sound-Dolby-Atmos/dp/B094TLY3FQ/ref=cm\_cr\_arp\_d\_product\_top?ie=UTF8
Thanks again for the reply, right now ive come across one that is rather cheap(a little over 300, downside is the sub is rather small) but seems to be decent based on reviews, the Vizio M series 5.1 ill post a link below. I just want something to make the TV sound better as i recently got an LG G1(setting it up today) and it being so thin i know the speakers are going to suck. I have a home theater set up in my living room, 7 channel receiver and that's where I go all out, but for my bedroom im not trying to go "balls to the wall" for lack of a better term lol. Thank you again, I appreciate it.
This is the one I purchased. It says that it has Dolby Atmos, and more specifically:
> Dolby Atmos is available on select Prime Video, Netflix, and Disney+ Hotstar titles when connected to compatible equipment.
I had our rears on end tables, but the elevation really helps in ATMOS effect.
I bought the linked stands at Amazon, two power cables and two replacement plugs. I am cutting the plug off the cable, stringing them through the stands and then installing the replacement plugs. I'm not a fan of the wires showing. Also, the power cables are longer than the Samsung provided ones so I don't have to run extension cords.
It went back to $518 now, but still a great deal. On klipsch website it’s over a grand
Fluance 7.1 kit is $874 on amazon. You need a receiver and wires however.
Or you have klipsch 5.1.4 fir $565 which comes with wire - you just need a 9.2 receiver.
I'd be flattered, but rtings.com is an excellent source! I ended up buying a soundbar from Vizio at a great price VIZIO M-Series 5.1.2 Premium Sound Bar with Dolby Atmos, DTS:X, Bluetooth, Wireless Subwoofer, Voice Assistant Compatible, Includes Remote Control - M512a-H6
Rotate, tilt, can handle 5kg (speakers are only 1.7) and price is fine.
Bought this costco exclusive LG model brand new in 2020 for $299, it's now on amazon as renewed for $298...it's 5.1.2 and 500 watts, so it has rears, both Atmos and DTS:X and 4k passthrough. Unparalleled value.
Mostly video games, on occasion movies but that aint a priority.
How does this one look?
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I guess you'll be using projector's HDMI for video input, yes?
Get a HDMI audio extractor (example) and then connect Chromecast into the extractor's HDMI input and then connect extractor's HDMI output into projector. Connect your speaker to extractor's audio out. (example product has 3.5mm output, so you'll need a 3.5mm-3.5mm cable.)
My bluetooth speaker doesnt have hdmi.
It need to be male to male, not male to female
https://www.amazon.de/Padarsey-Camcorder-Smartphones-Players-Speakers/dp/B09FT4PV1N/ref=mp_s_a_1_9?crid=2U2AKIO4C3EM5&keywords=3%2C5+stecker+auf+rca+stecker&qid=1654959124&sprefix=3.5+male+to+rca+male%2Caps%2C164&sr=8-9 So I should search 3.5mm male to rca male?. Would that one be correct?
You want a component to 3.5mm converter like this one here then run regular component cables from the projector to the converter and plug the converter into the soundbar
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B08CRX2HF2
you can use these when you cut the wires to re do the connection. or just re splice the connections. be ware tho, the wire is likely super thin.
Thinking this would work, HDMI 2.1 Switch 8K HDMI Switcher, 4K 120hz HDR Aluminum Bi-Directional Switch Splitter 2 in 1 Out or 1 in 2 Out, Support High Speed 48Gbps 8K@60Hz, for PS5, Xbox Series X , Apple TV, Samsung TV LG TV https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09N6PP8T1/ref=cm_sw_r_awdo_GD27MYTXKHK0E9AGADKV
Thinking about this switcher or similar HDMI 2.1 Switch, 8K High-Speed 48Gbps 2 in 1 Out Directional HDMI 2.1 Switcher, Supports 8K@60Hz 4K@120Hz, Compatible for PS5/PS4 Projectors Monitor Blu-Ray Player Xbox https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0991YY1YW/ref=cm_sw_r_awdo_HJMTNVFGT6H8MY49XTW2
Oh dear well Amazon have it new for $160 here
Limited-time deal: Sound Bar, BESTISAN 100 Watt Sound Bars for TV with Built in Subwoofer and Sub-Out Port Home Theater System (32 inch, Bluetooth 5.0, 3 Audio Modes, Bass Adjustable, Touch Control, 2022 Upgraded) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07X22QGCV/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_dl_RFZ8Q8DEEWBCJMWNRRBK?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Yes they do exist in some part of the world, but I haven't seen this setup with prominent global brands. TCL Australia has a 2.1.2 soundbar and here in India there are some brands who make 2.1.2 setups and they are the best sellers mainly bcz of the PRICE and the sound output is not bad either. They'd cost around 115 to 130 USD. https://www.amazon.in/dp/B08CRQ5M62/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_V8KNQD3Y6MV8106WQXFS
After your comment, I same day ordered this 8k 2.1 HDMI cable — it worked, no more start up audio lag!
Sony charge you exuberant amount of money for their sub and surround kit imo.
For that budget ($1700~2000 for A5000 plus sub and surrounds) getting a high-end Samsung which has everything is much better choice. Or wait for Samsung's 2022 version to release in US.
Thank you, which one would you pick between Q600 and this Samsung T670/XL 460W 5.1 Channel Wireless Surround Sound Soundbar with Subwoofer - Black https://www.amazon.in/dp/B08G1CWC8M/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_9AD4M3HRJBDJ6C92RJWS
Thank you so much. Found this one, has great reviews. Will continue research in this direction.
Samsung T670/XL 460W 5.1 Channel Wireless Surround Sound Soundbar with Subwoofer - Black https://www.amazon.in/dp/B08G1CWC8M/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_9AD4M3HRJBDJ6C92RJWS
Definitely the recommended Creative Stage v1. I can personally vouch for it.
I use it daily for tv/computer/console/Bluetooth. 🤘 The article says they'll test Stage v2 (+20 CAD) and I'm sure it'll be equivalent to the v1. 🤔
Why not get something like this and then you can use whatever sound bar that you want?
RCA to HDMI Converter, RuiPuo Composite to HDMI Adapter Support 1080P, PAL/NTSC Compatible with WII, WII U, PS one, PS2, PS3, STB, Xbox, VHS, VCR, Blue-Ray DVD,HDM Capture Card (RCA TO HDMI Converter) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07M8RNRGT/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_V3862F2730XC8ZH740E2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I see your point, although I was more thinking along the lines of technical issues (hence I mentioned the cables being long enough to stretch to the places I was considering).
I have bought these (yet to arrive, but I believe they come with a "guide" to help place them on the walls) -
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B08LL2XJ85
If I did place the Sound Bars directly above the TVs - then technically they would be slightly BEHIND the TVs - say about 1 to 2 feet (as the TV Cabinets are too wide to fit in the exact corner of the room) - at diagonals - would that be ok? So the bars would be behind, and the TVs in front - but with the bars visible.
If yes - how far above the top of the TVs is a good amount to have the bars?
A dumb toslink splitter might work, just use short optical cables. Like this
I don’t think you will like the resulting sound though.
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this is what you want. Out from the source/TV to both sound bars.
Same projector as me. I ended up connecting everything to the Soundbar and just running an eArc from the Soundbar to the projector.
I used this cable - works well. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08GMC7C91/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_WAMX6KTV667BRF3FT4E5?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
The issue I had with connecting devices to the projector and then to the Soundbar was that the sound was very delayed and even with the projector’s “delay audio” setting I couldn’t overcome it.
Mount it directly to the TV using something like this: Soundbass Beam TV Mount, Black, Compatible with Sonos Beam Soundbar, Mounting Bracket for Under TV, Full Hardware Kit Included [Gen 2 Compatible] https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07K8JC9Y8/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_1XSF8QGSZHEF5Y6VEJ5M
I too wanted a low profile mount. Those will work but have a limited range of motion. I used these. They are plastic but work excellent.
PERLESMITH Speaker Stands Height... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07925B8PD?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
These do work and have the correct screw size for the back of the speakers and I think they sit at a perfect height. The base legs stretch out pretty damn wide so watch out. The other downside is the power cords will not fit through the cable channel inside the tubing. I don’t mind because I just took black Velcro and snaked it up the back side of the tube. If that cosmetic would bother you then I don’t suggest these. You would need a fatter pole support to slide the power cables through.