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BMC WW2 USMC Amtrac LVT - 1:32 Amphibious Vehicle for Plastic Army Men https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002BFQ7K4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_8.-5CbKBDJVAF
The body of this thing is polyethylene so it doesn’t like most modeling glues.
Loctite 681925 2-Gram Super Glue Plastics Bonding System with Activator (6 Pack) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00448IKL0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_Fc.5CbPKBW14E
That one worked pretty well after some experimentation. Green stuff as a bond or works pretty well too.
Most of the rest of the parts are from a Baneblade Upgrade kit.
I used the Tamiya Models Modern U.S. Military Equipment Set: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000WNDZ5M/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 and the Astra Militarum Tank Accessories: https://www.games-workshop.com/en-US/Imperial-Guard-Tank-Accessories
>Imperial Missionary Theodosius Wold
https://cults3d.com/en/3d-model/game/imperial-missionary-theodosius-wold
I replaced the arm with an admittedly crappier one but here he is.
Thankya! The entirety of it is my own design that I've printed out. Tank, commander and all. I have it available here: https://cults3d.com/en/users/ZeDarkPenguin/creations
I designed and printed it - if you have access to a printer, the file is here, along with a few variants:
https://cults3d.com/en/3d-model/game/hevonen-light-utility-vehicle
Sure, no problem. Here's the steps with some links to specific items used:
- Spread on Vallejo Thick Mud
- Glue on some small slate rocks
- Dry brush Tyrant Skull (any off-white will work here)
- Wash with Athonian Camoshade
- Stipple on Nurgling Green as moss
- Glue on foliage Summer from War World Scenics
- Paint rim with Rhinox Hide
-
These are cool trucks and unique guard models!
For making the actual models more 40k feeling-- I'd take things like cut up paperclip railings/ladders, old mesh from screen doors/windows as some grating to stand on, tissue paper with watered down glue to make tarps, and greenstuff sandbags and put them all over these guys to add interest to the models. I think those things would help these look more detailed and "used." I say go crazy and don't be worried about overdoing it. If you mess up you can always print another and you'll find out what works best and what you find cool!
As far as printing objects-- barrels and old tires are nice to place around and on models.
If you want to paint them a little bit more worn/damaged maybe some agrax earthshade all over would help (especially nearer to the bottom half of the trucks to simulate dirt and mud). This is a great tutorial for battle damaging big vehicles.
Hopefully, something in that big rant is useful!
If I ever do hop on Cadians I'm set on 122nd Vogen Defence Force. The old 4th edition codex had a beautiful scheme for them, lemme see if I can find it.
*Edit: 122nd Vogen Defence Force
You could also try getting a couple of these
Basically you want something that's going to keep your models fixed in place while you work. Assuming you're totally new and getting everything from scratch, I'd suggest getting a squad of cadians (or, a brood brothers box as that also has a heavy weapons team involved... Just don't stick the genestealer stuff on), and use the money 'saved' from getting a cheaper box than the start collecting to get decent tools and paints. Not sure if it's been said already but you don't necessarily need to trust GW as being the gold standard- you can get nicer brushes from art stores and better (and cheaper) tools from hardware places. Where are you based btw?
While Administratum Command has declared that they are out, the benevolent Magi of Forge World Amazon are still able to provide, and at a lowered requisition cost.
One of these: https://www.amazon.com.au/Sakura-Pigma-Micron-Pigment-Fineliners/dp/B01MA3BMSG
A 0.03mm micron pen is really good for outlining freehand, and also good for dotting eyes, and of course really small writing. Key is always a magnifying lamp.
For such questions I recommend downloading Battlescribe. Play around with it a bit and you get the rules out very fast:
https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=net.battlescribe.mobile.rostereditor&hl=en
To be fair I'm new to guard and oils as well! Even with all my currently painted stuff I'm up to like 300~ points.
- After a oilwash, all I do (minus a protective layer of varnish) is Gloss Coat lenses and do glow effects (plasma gun). Glow effects are always last, as literal light itself should not have mud and grime on it.
- I personally leave it on for about a hour, but you can get away with more or less probably.
- I use some makeup sponges, and just wipe the thing down. Don't even need oderless thinner for these, though for some harder to reach places you may want to get a q-tip slightly wetted with white spirits or a shitty brush. Just be careful with your motions, as you could rub off layers of paint if too aggressive.
Not sure what country you’re in (for purchasing), but these might be an option:
You’d need to reshape them a bit to fit on 100 mm bases, but that’s 3 guns for 15 USD.
Lots of people.
Here's an amazon link to one
I’m thinking to try and just kit bash a set of shock troops myself. Look to be some good ideas in other comments I might try and borrow myself 😆.
If you want some good scale shells for the basilisk I bought some 1/35 17cm K Gr39 ammo that looks perfect
Bankers Box Plastic Storage Box 5.5L https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B08JGP969X?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
I bought the 5.5L and 10L for infantry and vehicles respectively. They're nice as they stack into eachother so they're fairly secure in a stack.
A fine brush and taking lots of time haha. I use very thin paint and do several passes (particularly on the large red letters for example). One trick I use for purity seals and so on (particularly on mass infantry or where they’re less noticeable) is actually to use a very fine pigment marker and do away with the brush entirely.
He should have gone with these.
I personally opt to not give into 3d printer companies that just bleed you dry and go with a more budget friendly route in the form of these:
I used this! Then primed and painted it as usual but used a stiff brush to rub some of the paint off the metal afterwards leaving shiny metal underneath.
The Army Painter | Battlefield Razorwire - Metal Razor Wire for Miniature Bases and Wargame Terrains https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07QM9JL8N/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_FHQBVN65DBND0CP5YQZ1
In the UK, brown dettol from most supermarkets, or isopropyl alcohol (99%+) from amazon work the best and don't damage plastics.
This kind of Dettol: www.amazon.co.uk/Dettol-Liquid-Antiseptic-Disinfectant-750ml/dp/B01ASESE0A
I've found that isopropyl alcohol is more effective, and doesn't smell anywhere near as bad, YMMV.
I ran into the same problem. I didnt want magnets exposed on the tracks. I couldnt open it up put in on the inside of the tracks. I didnt want to drill a small hole in the tracks. I eneded up buying some magnet sheets, cutting them and putting them on the bottom of the tracks. Works great on my cookie sheet tray
Tamiya sell tank accessories kits for their scale model tanks.
1:35 scale should look alright on 40k models.
Tamiya TM35229 35229 Allied Vehicles Accessory Set 1:35 Military Model Kit https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B000WNCFNU/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_4VJQ9WWSC0D188W8Y08P
There's a few different types
World's Smallest Portable Bluetooth Speaker - Great Audio Quality for its Size - 30+ Feet Range - Photo Selfie Button Answer Phone Calls Compact Compatible with Latest Phone Software (Black) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0723HQLMN/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apan_glt_i_FHWMXHTV7SZX76T1GEFV
I'm not sure about the quality of this thing, but they come in very small sizes!
Yeah man air brush and stencil, gives an effect in really like 😁
AK AK9079 Flexible Airbrush Stencils 1/20-1/24-1/35
https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B09LHKR4MY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apan_glt_i_9ACRNP0NBZDZ1G2XRQA1
Cheap and easy stripper that won't damage models 100%
Super Clean - my brother who is a museum model maker told me this is the stuff to use.
Filla plastic container with it - put the models in. Let them soak for an hour. Soft toothbrush and water.
Wear gloves, because it can irritate skin - it's a super degreaser with lye in it. CLears off enamel, oil and acrylic paints no muss no fuss.
I have 2 transports.
A German "Feldherr" carrying case, unlike Battlefoam for up to 2000P https://www.amazon.de/Feldherr-Koffer-Panzer-Monster-Miniaturen/dp/B00JDE3CQS
And for my full army I have (NO JOKE!) a make up artists trolly with nearly the same dimensions so the trays fit, I can add/remove layers to accommodate battle size/army I like to play:
So I finally got a resin printer and finished the design I had uploaded a few days ago. These printed beautifully. Im now working on a full set of 5 for some diversity. Here's the link to the STL if anyone wants a copy :) https://cults3d.com/en/3d-model/game/guardsman-armoured-legs
Your color scheme reminds me of the camo on Hawker Typhoons in WWII.
That's not the old Nork model. Just a normal Bone 'Ead. This is Nork.
Thanks!
It was OK, I used my good set of clippers (these https://www.amazon.co.uk/Tamiya-74035-Model-Accessories-Cutting/dp/B0131XZ92G/ref=asc_df_B0131XZ92G/?tag=googshopuk-21&linkCode=df0&hvadid=314530710906&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=6110820808325186505&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=1006674&hvtargid=pla-442968800137&psc=1) to get the bulk of the work down.
Then a blade to scoop the rest out.
I need to us GS now to fill in some bits, but its not as bad as it could have been.
For the varnish, I highly recommend AK Interactive Ultra Matte Varnish. It's the gold standard for matte.
Audio module (not necessary): fosa 4 Minutes DIY Greeting Card Chip Music Sound Voice Recording Module Device Chip Recordable Sound Chip for Christmas Cards, Holiday Creative Gift Boxes, Jewelry Boxes, Crafts, Children's Toys https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07KW9PR5Q/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_3ZZ8TZNCXN46QB4EW28S?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
The gun is a weapons team autocannon, cut the original barrel off, saved the muzzle brake. The new barrels, turret, turret mechanisms and deck are scratch built from 1mm polystyrene sheet, as well as various sizes of hollow circular and square polystyrene tubing. If you’d like I can take a look at sizes. Pretty much everything you can get from model/hobby stores like hobby lobby.
The rest of it is from the standard taurox kit, I just left most of the troop compartment off and trimmed down the side panels.
Ta-daaa: fosa 4 Minutes DIY Greeting Card Chip Music Sound Voice Recording Module Device Chip Recordable Sound Chip for Christmas Cards, Holiday Creative Gift Boxes, Jewelry Boxes, Crafts, Children's Toys https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07KW9PR5Q/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_FDN6Y1YZFGC3MHVXZG81?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Thanks! Wooden cubes from hobby lobby, wrap it in some cloth so it sticks up a little higher than the top of the cube, wrap drywall mesh around that, paint primary color, sort of dry brush the mesh a different color, mix some elmers glue and dirt and dump it on top.
Wooden Cubes, 200 Pieces Natural Square Wooden Blocks Unfinished Craft Wooden Squares https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07YFTJQP2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_W3C125A1ADMAKVMT6M56?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
:) Amazon has a bag of 200 for $10:
Wooden Cubes, 200 Pieces Natural Square Wooden Blocks Unfinished Craft Wooden Squares https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07YFTJQP2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_W3C125A1ADMAKVMT6M56?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
They also have different sizes.
I got this for 16 bucks from Amazon and it is quite amazing. As everything artsy during Covid19, this also went up in prize but don't buy from the scammers advertising this on Facebook, their prices are a ripoff:
Yoctosun LED Magnifiers
my buddy uses micro pens like these, (just the black). they seem to work pretty good
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001GAP4YA/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 this works good for general work and decent detailing, cheaper than green stuff as well
I’m pretty sure you’ll have to look on Amazon or elsewhere like me if you want one. It was sold out on Gee Dubs within 10 minutes, it was on “email me when new stock” for about 2 weeks, before turning to “no longer available online” (without it it being restocked once, mind). And as of time of writing (10am UK) it’s completely gone from the webstore. It’s still on Amazon here , and it is cheaper, both compared to Gee Dubs AND most UK FLGS, although mine for example said that he didn’t even receive all the copies that he had pre-ordered, so it’s clear we’ve got some GW bad supply and demand management shenanigans again. Seems to happen more to the guard than most lately...
I came to post this. It’s a solid effort and don’t put yourself down but if you follow those tips the eyes will look really nice.
I’ve also switched from trying to paint the pupils to using a fine tip pen to do them.
I’m using these
The finest one works for eyes and the other pens help with freehand work etc.
Keep up the good work!
I actually started out with the smaller magnets and realized I needed larger ones for things like my Russ turret, etc., so I went the exact opposite route! I got my tiny magnets here on Amazon:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07X2G3116/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_yXhkFb3DMKGGJ
The Apocalypse box is this one: https://www.amazon.com/Warhammer-40K-Militarum-Spearhead-Detachment/dp/B07TT853M5/ref=asc_df_B07TT853M5/
It just has a bunch of regular kits bundled together for a slight discount