What are /r/VIDEOENGINEERING's favorite Products & Services?

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I've used synergy (https://symless.com/synergy) in the past to control multiple devices with one mouse/keyboard.

It's as easy as having a second monitor on the same system, you're just sliding your mouse over to the other monitor and boom your controls are in that system.

It does work with server/client applications so might not be the best solution in terms of redundancy, since, if the server pc goes offline, the whole thing stops working. Big night be worth a look nonetheless.

Try an HDMI to RCA adapter and just record the output with a VHS tape recorder. Shouldn't be difficult. https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B08CH91V1W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc_KER9T41B968EV7X5KV2H?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

Include vMix in your demos. It might do what you need without ridiculous recurring costs. It can also be hosted in the cloud pretty easily. I'm just not quite sure what you gain with a cloud hosted service that you don't get with just an ISP service plan upgrade.

My recommendation is to use a simple zoom call for comms and a screen share on the Multiview so remote operators know what is going on (typical latency is about 200ms). Remote ops can send in graphics and even playout via SRT on an overlay. vMix Call (webRTC based) actually works pretty well for remote phone feeds, or if they have the right equipment/expertise you can obviously setup just about any kind of remote connection imaginable.

They also have a web interface that will allow multiple operators via vpn or port-forwarding.

Use a output of 4mbps for your stream and you should have plenty of bandwidth. Zoom only uses 3 mbps max, and vMix call is configurable.

If you need a rock solid connection, add a USB 4G modem and Speedify for bonding.

Feelworld makes inexpensive monitors.

Do you need actual one to one pixel 1080p or do you just need it to support that resolution as an input?

Here’s for $150 that supports 4k but only has 1920x1200 actual pixels.

FEELWORLD T7 7 Inch IPS 4K HDMI Camera Field Monitor Video Assist Full HD 1920x1200 Solid Aluminum Housing DSLR Monitor with Peaking Focus False Colors https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B078GSPV1W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_2WF1GZ8NWH0SDSQ3W7XR

My understanding is if you bond an rtmp successfully you are re-wrapping the stream through a new protocol that can work with and identify the different pipes and get reconstructed upon receipt. Rtmp is comparatively basic. LRT for live u is a lot like SRT, but you can’t use it unless you are running through the bonding part and using their server to convert it back to rtmp, otherwise it is just encoding directly. This is the case for the dejero as well, same sort of idea.

Speedify helps sort of bond connections for an RTMP if it is a supported platform for it, it will trick the protocol as if it’s going through a normal connection, but speedify does its VPN magic where it shares internet connections and data wrangles. It would require further research to explain competently.

An option:

if you don’t need anything specific from the ATEM multi view, you could alternatively DA your 4 inputs to a manual multi viewer, like this one from Amazon like for $70.

This would require ) $15 HDMI splitters for each input.

PRO: many of the chinese HDMI splitters will naturally help keep an HDMI signal active, in addition to (not legally) stripping HDCP off of a signal.

Cons: it’s an awkward solution... + the rats-nest it creates

This is my choice

Here is an Amazon option. I've bought shorter lengths on Amazon, but for 500ft, I'd go with a reputable seller. I prefer Markertek.

Barrier is a fork of synergy which is a free version. Haven't used in in production but found it stable for office work.

https://github.com/debauchee/barrier/releases -- download link is at the bottom of the page.

Here's some relatively-recent discussion. Lots more on the web.

https://antmedia.io/ultra-low-latency-video-streaming-use-cases/

You could always launch a Zoom meeting (half-kidding) or a big FaceTime call, now that FaceTime is multi-platform. But still, everybody watching is going to kill the network (WAN, Cell, LAN, whatever). I think I read somewhere you can do point-to-point Zoom without their (remote) server, using IP settings. Hopefully that can be done with a clickable link on the client side. Still need local infrastructure.

On-site/in-person tech support for drunk/wasted metalheads sounds like a real hoot.

Also look at multicast, often used in corporate settings.

I know in my live corporate gigs, I get called to task if my system introduces even one frame of latency. In a music venue, where sync is important, this will be an issue.

Since the content appears to be pre-recorded, you could "roll tape" a calculated amount early to deal with fixed, system-wide latency, but finding a system with fixed latency on all platforms would be almost as difficult as eliminating it.

I saw a solution for smaller groups at the last live NAB, but don't recall the name or how scalable it was...

I think right now the most performant option would be the Peplink 5G series with Speedfusion. Im not sure if the Teradek or LiveU units support newer features like carrier aggregation, etc. A good software solution would be Speedify but it takes more setup. I like having the option to swap modems individually though as newer technologies become available.

I'm not talking about RTMP here. I'm talking about HLS livestreaming. Invented by apple, made for apple devices. According to Can I Use HLS works on all current IOS versions.

For a silly alternative: keep the mac mini connected to the display, and use something like Luna Display to stream to your mini from the Windows machine. I noticed luna display isn't out yet for Windows-as-source though... maybe Reflector could work?

Even f(l)unkier: get a HMDI -> USB adapter and use that to feed HMDI out from your Windows machine into the Mini. Fullscreen with VLC or OBS and you've got something. I'm not sure how well those adapters match the display resolution though.

I'm seconding Restream. Especially, I suggest you try their Restream Studio. It's a simple online tool that works directly from a browser, and transmits to over 30 platforms.

Check out Speedify bonding. It's very inexpensive and pretty awesome. You can even create your own bonding device using a raspberry pi:

We sprang for the full Teradek HEVC 4-modem backpack, It's great but only bonds video traffic. Wish I had known about Speedify first!

Liliput is a good option, I use it for all testing and troubleshooting purposes.

LILLIPUT FS7 7" Full HD Camera Monitor with 3G-SDI and 4K HDMI Metal Housing High Resolution F970 Plate for Camcorder DSLR https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07CZVW9XR/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_S64SGF7QRKTZ6EYZ41GG

You could use a CCTV power supply like this: https://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-Channel-Camera-Power-Supply/dp/B0069MB6G0

They're not usually very rack friendly though, but they are 12v DC with plenty of channels and can usually handle a decent amount of power per channel, since they need to power IR LEDs on the cameras. You would just need to find or build pigtails with the correct size plugs for the converters.

I am currently using PTZOptics. Different use case, live music not sports, but low-light works great and focuses really well on hectic, typically-poorly-lit stages.

This camera, specifically: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01BI8EEP4

Larix Screencaster can capture screen and stream it via SRT, RTMP, RTSP and RIST.

Here's the video showing the setup with OBS and SRT as a transport.

Unless you need SDI for a long-distance run, you're making this way too complicated.

Easier steps:

• Use a USB-C or Mini DisplayPort (depending on your computer) to VGA adapter out of your laptop
• Use a VGA to 5-wire BNC cable to get component connectors from the VGA adapter above
• You now have analog component to sent into your effects racks (you might need BNC > RCA adapters, depending on the component end of the gear)
• Take analog component out of your effects rack, back to a cheap component to HDMI converter
• You now have HDMI as a finished product

You should look into Plex plex.tv. You can run a local Plex server for free and it can play back on all of your smart TVs through an app. Most TVs run the app natively, or you can run it through a Roku box or Amazon Fire TV.

For the gopro 9 you can buy these doors with an opening for the charger: https://www.amazon.com/Removable-Charging-Replacement-Protective-Accessories/dp/B08JLFBWM5

With some putty to seal it up I would even consider using it outdoors.

To calculate your interval you can use a tool like this: https://www.omnicalculator.com/other/time-lapse

Fill in how long your video needs to be, the base FPS at which you will be playing it back at, and how long it will be running for.

For example: a 10 sec clip played back at 24 FPS would need to run for 3 weeks at an interval of ~2 hours. If you wanted a 5 min clip at 24 fps the interval drops down to 4mins.

Your interval of 10 minutes would result in a ~2 min clip.

Nimble in the cloud is just a problem solver. If you have direct control of the network on one side or the other, you can have the srt encoders call home directly. But if you do not have control of the router on either side, you can set up your encoders and decoders as caller mode and put nimble in the middle in listener mode. It takes a little bit of knowledge but not much once you understand the terminology. I highly recommend reading Haivision’s SRT Deployment guide to fully understand the protocol.

https://www.srtalliance.org/srt-deployment-guide/

After that, check out the Nimble Streamer tutorials on their site and YouTube.

https://wmspanel.com/nimble

Post up if you have specific questions. I use this configuration daily.

What exactly do you need PBP to do for you? Because resolume performs best when you use Alley to convert your content anyway, so codecs shouldn't really be relevant to any Resolume projects. If resolume Alley won't convert for you, process it thru Handbrake first. Then it should work.

Aside from that, you'll be dealing with possibly as much as a quarter to half second delay from the extra processing time to receive Playback Pro's content and re-send it from Resolume. Whatever audio you've got would certainly be out of sync.

So anyway, to answer your question, yes. You CAN recieve playback pro in Resolume. Blackmagic makes some "cheap" Video capture cards that Resolume Arena 6 supports. I've used it to apply special effects to camera sources before being output to screens. click this link and choose the "capture" category.

Thanks for your input on this.

I can safely rule out the shared administrators part as this is a small FB page sharing a national TV FB live stream.My understanding of tools such as restream.io is that the user needs to generate the content for the livestream to then broadcast across multiple websites.

In terms of OBS, I don't understand how they got the FB livestream in there as an input source to then broadcast to begin with. This has me stumped.

> I just learned from my coworkers that Blackmagic Design has come out with a new video editing software that's free, for now at least, called Davinci Resolve. I am going to download a copy and start playing with it. Wondering if anyone else has heard about it or has any opinions on it. I see they have a beefier version for 4K and 3D tools, among other things.

There are two versions DaVinci Resolve and DaVinci Resolve Studio.

The free version is very, very full featured. It handles 4k+

Studio is $1k - has collaborative workflows, works stereoscopic (not 3d). Full list of differences here

This is the 12.5 (13th) iteration of the tool. It's likely to get rev'd near NAB. The free level versions have been available since version 8 or 9. They also now do the same thing with Fusion (a strong compositor on the level of NUKE.) BMD acquired Fairlight recently as well.

> I haven't used BM stuff enough to form a good opinion of the quality in general. It seems like this might be a good introduction into software for them.

Resolve has a learning curve - it's not as easy (or full featured) as an editor such as Premiere or Media Composer. But Resolve is the standard for colorists.

I think the problem might be the videocard than, since you state that you have no screen tearing on 720P output.

In powerpoint, there should be a setting to force an output resolution, i dont know if its in the settings menu, or if it's the resolutions of the slides that force the output.

That's my best educated guess atm....

EDIT: Here you go :)

I was looking into something like this back in March. Check our castr.io. It's not free but it's entirely cloud based. Their sales guy showed me mostly egaming templates.

I refuse to use VLC when I am given a playback machine.

I carry a copy of ScreenMonkey and the latest codec pack. This way I can queue up multiple items in a nice interface on my local screen, whilst all playback happens on the external monitor, and there are no overlays to appear.

Once upon a time I used a service called Otter.ai for live closed captioning. The great part about their service was they used AI to have context-aware closed captioning (for instance we were producing a bio-tech conference, and it was able to correctly pick up some of the scientific jargon).

We sent them a stream, and we got a closed caption feed back. Their service worked great.

I'm using Speedify on an Intel NUC running Xubuntu with multiple ethernet ports and WiFi if needed.

I'm getting really good performance from it. Much cheaper than a Peplink setup (And the bandwidth cost is basically nothing by comparison) There are dedicated server options too if you need more bandwidth down the tunnel.

Second to the recommendation of getting tactical fiber.

These tools are great for cleaning fiber: https://www.amazon.com/FiberShack-Fiber-Cleaning-Tested-Cleans/dp/B07CNX8FJ3

Be careful of just using a wipe because if there is dirt on the face, you can scratch the surface, the tool I linked presses down with a teflon ribbon and picks up anything off the surface. Your cables will last longer if you use these tools and not just a alcohol wipe from the first aid kit, those usually are only 70% and leave a residue behind. There are 99% wipes used for cleaning fiber that you should go with.

I read this book awhile back...

https://www.amazon.com/Mastering-MultiCamera-Techniques-Preproduction-Deliverables/dp/0240811763/ref=nodl_.

I believe it came with raw multicam footage of a Paul McCartney and Elton John concert to practice with. I practiced on a multi cam timeline in premiere but I’m sure you set it up to run clips through a switcher and practice that way.

You'll first need to convert each of your camera outputs to HDMI with a box like this. Then you'll use the HDMI-to-NDI converters. You'll need one of these for each camera input.

Sure, something like one of these little guys: https://www.amazon.com/JBtek-Channel-Module-Arduino-Raspberry/dp/B00KTELP3I/ref=sr_1_3?dchild=1&keywords=relay+board&qid=1620689259&sr=8-3

This one's 5V, but you can search around and find them in multiple coil voltages depending on what you need... You'd have to DIY a case or throw them on a shelf, but they're cheap.

Speedify helps with some CDN’s, now accepts SRT as input, and restreams as normal rtmp server side. These are cheaper solutions. You can go full bonded from pepwave,liveU, Dejero, treadle vidiugo there’s a few out there at much higher price points. I’d start with the cheaper options first. Move up from there. vMix basic HD allows SRT out, and having a matching just for that isn’t a bad thing.

I really like these cables. If I were putting them behind a wall and never touching them again I don’t think I would spend the money on them though. I mostly use them to hook one or multiple cameras into a atoms sumo if I need to see multiple video feeds at once.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07QG7QNS5/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Well there are multiple Bonding VPN Services by now. Entirely software based like Speedify, simple bonding implemented in Routers or a combination of Hard- & Software the likes of Peplink offers.

Speed depends on the location. With consumer LTE Routers I usually get upload speeds between 15 and 60 MBit/s up. Download Speeds improved radically this year. Depending on the carrier and were I'm located at the moment I get can get up to 200 Mbit/s down via a single LTE-A connection. Some carriers are offering unlimited data day passes for a low daily fee.

Go to the pharmacy/drugstore and get a green coverup, put that on the reddest areas, it will neutralize the red. Then use a foundation that matches your face colour. Then use whatever normal bright lighting you would use for video.

I think you should correct the colour on your face, rather than try to colour-correct later in post.

Here's an example of a green coverup stick: https://www.amazon.ca/Maybelline-New-York-Cover-Concealer/dp/B000V54TO2/

https://www.amazon.com/EVanlak-Passthrough-Generrtion-Thunderbolt-Splitters-1920X1080/dp/B07YMS18T7/ref=sr_1_52?dchild=1&keywords=HDMI+sink&qid=1607474611&sr=8-52

The link above is to an EDID emulator. You can turn off the Projector and the OS and Resolume will see it as still connected.

Unless you really need to transfer a lot of footage, just shipping the CVR70 might be a lot more expensive and more trouble than getting a few tapes digitized. Just sayin' :-)

I'm afraid you won't get the same look from DVCam at all. It's technically a much more transparent format. If you want to shoot with one of your BetaCam cameras you could try an external recorder/converter like this. You'd need a source of power like a phone charger brick battery. Anyway, that's what I'd do. The video will look just about exactly like if you shot BetaCam tape and played it on a studio recorder to digitize. If it was me, I would do this. Keep the look but forget about the tape.

The Sony PXW-x70 has everything you need, new it's about $2000 but there are used available on Amazon for $1,500 or so:

https://smile.amazon.com/Sony-PXWX70-HD422-Camcorder-3-5-Inch/dp/B00NPAJH8I

Also, a used Panasonic HPX-170 would be perfect for your setup:

https://smile.amazon.com/Panasonic-AG-HPX170-High-Definition-Camcorder-Optical/dp/B001E96LGI

It looks like those are going for about $1,600 used on Amazon. (No HDMI out on this one, but a $50 converter would get you by until you can get your switcher.)

Atlona makes good, solid stuff with a 10 year warranty. I'm not sure what price a dealer could get it for you, but honestly it's probably close to $10k. The prior model with a few less bells and whistles is on Amazon for half that.

That might sound like a lot, but start doing the math on parts and pieces and I wouldn't be surprised if you weren't that far off and with a lot larger / messier footprint (what's your equipment space? Decent closet with racks or a shelf above the bar?) Yes, with HD-Base-T outputs you'd just pull cat5 to each monitor and put a receiver on each.

Just so happens that I have been working on sending my 2016 MacBook to a CRT via composite for some video art. Most of the cheap HDMI to composite adapters on Amazon are garbage but this one worked for me:

Note that it's powered over the HDMI line, so the source of the signal must have some juice behind it. For example, going directly from my Thunderbolt 3 ports to the adapter works, but going from my CalDigit TB3 hub does not for some reason.

Also, sometimes it glitches out as if if were unplugged and immediately plugged back in, but not if it's been running for a while.

Disclaimer: This is all anecdotal. If you try other solutions like the one JoyRide008 suggested, let us know how it worked. Might as well collect some data while we are all here.

I was in the exact same boat and after much searching on Amazon, found this Hermitshell - it fits quite well without a ton of space to spare around it - but the AC adapter does fit in the lid, which is nice. And doesn't take up a ton of Pelican space.

Well, that just totally threw my idea out! hah, I didn't even think to go to multiple XLR. That's brilliant. that would save me carrying another bag of adapters! It would also allow for a bigger monitor too, which would be nice.
For the USB C I was looking at this: https://www.amazon.com/CERRXIAN-Waterproof-Extension-Motorcycle-Dashboard/dp/B08169ZB5C/ref=sr_1_4?crid=2GJX6DT9KHL5C&dchild=1&keywords=usb+c+panel+mount&qid=1602527356&sprefix=USB+c+panel+m%2Caps%2C161&sr=8-4

I found this Ubiquiti switch that might work

I swear by Dymo XTL 300 and their flexible cable wrap tape. I use it for touring and these labels hold up like no other.

DYMO XTL 300 Label Maker Kit, 1868814 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B014SXTXCK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_YyiGCbA8738MG

DYMO Flexible Cable Wrap for DYMO XTL Label Makers, Black on White, 1", 1 Roll (1868808) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0140Z4P2O/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_.AiGCbCEJ4F0C

HDMI extender with loop out:

https://www.amazon.com/Extender-Loop-Out-Transmission-Ethernet-LKV372pro/dp/B018K28HOU

Got two sets, daisy chaining works OK.

Does the camcorder still work? If it does then that would be the best way to play the tapes. You can capture the video with a whole slew of different products, one that would probably look good for you (since you're looking for upscaling) is a cloner alliance box pro.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B012T1D0IG

I carry one of these with a USB power cable and a sd chip of test patterns.

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07D7RCBJJ

it is small and cheap and it makes HDMI signals. Great for testing lectern inputs and things like that.

You think it'll be bad if use something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Blackmagic-Design-DeckLink-Quad-Recorder/dp/B07PGT6RQC/ and a beefy i9 system?

I get that I may need to add some delay to the audio from the pa system (OSB can do this, I'm sure vMix can too).

So you have BNC genlock and timecode, and all you need to do is turn the timecode into 3.5mm (1/8") jack? How about an adapter cable like this? Or am I missing something?

Resolume supports USB webcams, Blackmagic Decklink, and AJA capture devices (as far as I know.) If you handycam only has composite video outputs, you will need a composite USB capture card, like this one from Amazon.

Here's the help article on how to add video inputs in Resolume.

I bought a mini pc chassis and installed Linux on it, and then the Linux client for Speedify.

The mini PC has 4 USB ports and 6 discrete NICs, making it a perfect platform for connecting an unlimited number of network connections such as LAN cables, tethered mobile routers, smart phones, WiFi dongles, cellular modems, or whatever.

No matter the job, I stream through it with usually four 4G cellular connections. If I'm lucky, the venue has LAN and I just add that to the mix.

The speedify client automatically recognizes and utalizes all available connections seamlessly.

Also, the monthly or yearly Speedify subscription is cheaper than the competition.

I've been using this setup for two years now and it has never failed me.

LiveU and Teradek are good for streaming only. Peplink works well for meetings and also SRT. Speedify used to work good and reliably up until a few months into the pandemic, then I started to get disconnects during live sessions and I never used it again - if sb. asks for a cheap solution though, I recommend it.

Strangely enough most people prefer to pay thousands of dollars for better streaming gear instead to invest into a better internet connection. I have the discussion right now with people who want to be able to use zoom in their "remote" home office on the country side but aren't willing to pay for Starlink.

Speedify.

I’ve got a raspberry pi running speedify setup as a router and output my bonded connection to all broadcast critical gear like codec comms and return program / autocue. I’ve got it setup on a dedicated server plan so I get a publicly assignable IP and can use it for remote switching a vision mixer.

I’ve found this to work better than peplink. Dejero Gateway is the best I’ve used, but the cost is very high.

Yes, you need a splitter. Depending on the splitter they usually send the EDID from monitor #1 to the PC, so put the “lesser” monitor on that output. The other suggestion of a in-line EDID module like this one:

https://www.amazon.com/Passthrough-Generrtion-Headlesskeep-Extenders-3840x2160/dp/B08RCMFLMK/ref=sr_1_3?crid=XDM91F4G020D&keywords=inline%2BEDID%2B1080p&qid=1669576839&sprefix=inline%2Bedid%2B1080p%2Caps%2C101&sr=8-3&th=1

You probably want the 1080p/FHD version of this. plug it into PC and that should force the output to 1080p/60

I've found these two outlet strips to be handy for various high-density systems:

First is a 20-space rack-mount strip, that has the added flexitility of outlet re-orientation if needed. Doing so requires some internal re-wiring, and as such would lose its UL designation, but the outlets they use can be rotated 90-degrees in the existing metalwork. I've got one I used un-modified, and the other is awaiting 'adjustment' to meet a certain mix of wall-wart power supplies. $90.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00E8JXVKA/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The second is a 22-outlet strip with a variety of orientations and some USB capability. 10 wart-ready perimeter outlets, with others in the middle. USB at the switch/cord end. Different cord lengths available, too. ~$40 depending on cord length.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08Z2ZKVXX/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I also use high-output, multi-tap USB chargers for some things, but always be mindful of a system's "single point of failure" gotcha.

On the cheapest end yes such splitters exist. Of course having locking connectors would be nice, and make sure to use a power supply that has an appropriate voltage and can provide enough power for all the units connected.

I just bought a mini pc box with six discrete NICs and 4 USB 3 ports, installed Linux on it, and the CLI version of Speedify, a bonding VPN. I do the encoding separately and just connect it to the downstream LAN port on my home made bonding box. Works like a charm.

Okay, I'll look around, any thoughts on this, i'm seeing quite a few recommendations for it? It looks on the cheaper side, Or if you have recommendations on one, I'm planing on probably purchasing a fusion splicer as some point and some other cable repair tools.

https://www.amazon.com/YEDEMC-Mini-Pro-Mulit-Function-5m-60Km-Dynamic/dp/B07Z1XCRBF/ref=sr\_1\_3?crid=3V6DV9OI5YGII&keywords=otdr&qid=1665633967&qu=eyJxc2MiOiI1LjUxIiwicXNhIjoiNC42NSIsInFzcCI6IjQuMDEifQ%3D%3D&sprefix=otd%2Caps%2C14...

I tried similar setup but in Windows PC. I used connectify to share the internet from Speedify to other devices. Internet is working fine in the devices but in my office laptop, Cisco Any Connect is connecting to the office VPN. If Cisco any connect is directly used along with Speedify, its working. But with connectify and shared internet its not working. I see that we don't need connectify in Linux, so If I try this setup in Linux, my issues will be addressed?

For a crimper I've always sworn by the KTH-1000

It's been a few years since I was making cables myself, but back in the day I loved that crimper along with a box full of dies.

Not as sure about a universal stripper, although Paladin never steered me wrong.

>I don’t know about any device that supports two HDMI captures.

There are a good handful of PCIe capture cards that allow the capture of 2 or 4 HDMI sources simultaneously. They're much more rare than single HDMI in/out cards and I can't think of any that work over USB, but I do know they exist.

For example: https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1464918-REG/blackmagic_design_bdlkdvqdhdmi4k_decklink_quad_hdmi_recorder.html https://www.amazon.com/AVerMedia-Gamer-1080p-Capture-GC570D/dp/B08DFMNSDM

Electricity for the Entertainment Electrician & Technician: A Practical Guide for Power Distribution in Live Event Production

by Richard Cadena

Link: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08MKNTT7K/ref=dbs\_a\_def\_rwt\_bibl\_vppi\_i0

I bought a handful of these a while back. Not the best quality but they are are still alive save for a few that got broken by wind:

https://www.amazon.com/Sport-Brella-Versa-Brella-Adjustable-Umbrella-Universal/dp/B0853WQR8P

>o

I bought this on amazon to solve this very issue and I had NO LUCK. The display still showed up with the same identical names for my decimators.

Ah right, thanks, yes, this is what I looked at.

I mean, Speedify is a commercial product in a very niche market, so there's no telling when they suddenly go out of business. I could see myself looking into this again if/when I get bored with my current system as well.

I rolled my own. I bought a mini-pc kit, basically a heat sink with 6 discrete NICs and 4 USB ports, and installed Linux and the Speedify command line service. I plug all my data/network devices into it for Speedify to use, or LAN if available. Then I run my downstream network into it. On a gig, I just turn it on and I'm up. It hasn't failed me yet. And I can plug unlimited network connections into it: smartphones, mobile routers, dongles, LAN cables, anything. Speedify will recognize and utilize any connection I add automatically and dynamically.

You can get cheaper modulators if you are needing to save up for that one.

https://www.amazon.com/CIMPLE-CO-Composite-Converter-Modulator/dp/B06XC9Y3VB/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?keywords=composite+rf+modulator&qid=1660737558&sprefix=composite+rf+mo%2Caps%2C182&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1&smid=A3LYGL3VCPC7H8&spLa=ZW5... for example

The projector does work with another source.

Could try an EDID minder. Not familiar with EDID at all but looking at the this EDID manager on Amazon, I'm guessing you set up this way? PC>HDMI>EDID manager>HDMI>Projector? Is that it?

Would prefer not have to do SDI as we don't have the ports nor the setup for it. But SDI more reliable?

You pay for what you get. $200 is going to be more of the same for what you already have.

The cozy roadie that you linked above or the stealth chairs are both good options. https://stealthchair.com

Otherwise I got one of these cushions and it helps a bit…but I’d still prefer a better seat. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07HD8B9SP?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

If you can program: GPS big brother https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=org.gnarf.bigbrother.gps

The app sends gps location at set intervals to a custom server, from there in you can generate a live location with Google Maps.

I have done this. Here is the camera we use:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08R5ZD1N3/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

It uses the PTZ Optics app for control. We run an ethernet cable from a POE switch to the camera for power and control and another cable from the switch to the computer.

The PTZ Optics app allows for an XBOX controller to be used for most basic controls. There is also an OBS dock available for it. It has worked well for us.

We use this for indoor and outdoor events, mostly sports but also graduation/plays/other events. For outdoor events we keep the camera near our other equipment and out of the elements (think in the press box). We use the HDMI output into a switcher. In the gym we can use SDI cable to place it wherever we want to get the angle we need. A little SDI to HDMI converter feeds into our switcher. You can also have it nearby and treat it like the outdoor camera.

I had our IT department student volunteers set up the network stuff for me since I don't know how to do that very well. But there are some resources if you search YouTube for the Avkans and PTZOptics stuff.

I am sure there are some other options that work that may be a little more or a little less. But the quality of this one compared to the price works for us. It is nowhere near the quality of a good Panasonic or JVC, but it is a fifth of the price.

It definitely depends on the rack, but if I have the room I love using finger duct to keep everything clean. Also makes it easy to rewire when something breaks on site finger duct

I use a little device that basically is meant for podcasters. You can buy it on Amazon and it's got one mini plug for the phone that is wired for Audio Plus microphone and then two XLR Jacks one that would go into the monitor input and the other that would go into mic line input.

Podcast Hotline Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00XFSWODA?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07YMTGV2S

With this you don't need a splitter. it makes the computer think there is a monitor there. You can connect a monitor to the passthrough.

They come in many resolutions.

For this purpose you could use and HDMI EDID emulator dongle. An additional monitor would show up in your display settings with no physical output. I’ve used this one in the past with success.

https://www.amazon.com/Converter-ABLEWE-Adapter-Composite-Laptop/dp/B09V9TCPWD/

Here's a deal on one that includes an HDMI cable if you don't have one already. Otherwise, just make sure you get the correct direction as the adapters aren't reversable. It MUST be HDMI->RCA, not RCA->HDMI, since you need to get the video from a computer to the VCR

Here’s a start: 8’ x 50’ of fiberglass window screening. I have no suggestions for actually installing this in a safe manner, so that it doesn’t get blown away. But, maybe someone else will. This is a far more cost effective textile than bobbinet.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07VXYZ56V/

I use one of these:

Multicom 1080P HDMI to Coax Digital 100 Encoder Modulator J.83B QAM 64 / J.83B QAM 256 RF or ATSC Output https://www.amazon.com/dp/B082DKVXLY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_3JQN7KWG87G1CDXH3DC4?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

Do the NVRs offer an RTSP stream, or some other stream that something like VLC can pickup?

I've had pretty decent luck with these: ISEEVY H.265 H.264 4K 1080P Video Decoder IPTV Decoder with HDMI and CVBS Output for Advertisement Display, IP Encoder Decoding, Network Stream Decoding Support RTMP RTSP RTP UDP HTTP https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07B9M9RK2/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_PWWS45A3MC01NZBH3NGY

$60

Limited-time deal: TreasLin Screen Capture Recorder, 1080P HDMI to USB Game Recorder,One-Click Recording, Screen Recorder Compatible with TV Box Xbox One PS4 Wii U Switch School lectures,No PC Required… https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B08LPSG8CY

normal DP-HDMI adapters only go one direction. You would need a powered active adapter that is specifically HDMI->DP, like this

Thank you for your reply. Would something like this work? What exactly is the purpose of the capture card? Cant I just connect the vhs player to my pc and use a software like OBS?

Looks nice but you are 10x the price of Ultimate’s MDS-X

https://www.guitarcenter.com/Ultimate-Support/MDS-X.gc

Add an On-Stage 12u rack and you’re most of the way there for $80

On-Stage RS7030 Rack Stand https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B000CD1R84/

Your stuff is definitely nicer and it’s good to know it’s out there.

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07D7RCBJJ

These are my goto player. I have an earlier model that has been playing a video loop continuously for more than 10 years.

You can set it up to just play whatever is on the chip or usb drive. I put one in a restaurant a few years ago and located the player near the bar so they could swap the USB drive as needed. It just works. You can also power it from the USB port on many new TVs.

i've tried a run of cheapo's and then I tried this one.

hdmi extender with EDID

which says it has EDID but it just doesnt work with blackmagic switcher ....

Easytether? Pdanet? Foxfi? Speedify?

What is wrong with you people? Am I missing something? Stop paying for hotspot plans and use the unlimited cellular you probably already have. Get app (~$5), connect to some old laptop or a get a nuc ($150ish), serve connection to an old router/access point ($50). Put it in a rugged case ($40 pelican case), done. Dont want to use your phone? Add a basic data line ($50/mo max), get a cheap 5g phone ($125). Want redundancy? Speedify ($90/yr) or inetfusion ($100 lifetime license).

I just don't understand why anyone would use these unbelievably expensive and proprietary products. I would much rather hire a network specialist for a gig. I don't need to think about the internet reliability. Teradek/peplink may be cheaper/simpler for recurring gigs with small crews less than 4 people. But if you're running a broadcast van or medium/large size events (+10 workers), you're a fool not to to get a network engineer/specialist to make a strategy. With a network specialis, they can TALK to you if something goes down. They'll do whatever it takes to ensure uptime.

I'm not against using a product outside of its intended purpose, but these companies are marketing too liberally. Machines can't replace professional people, not yet at least.

I doubt a better antenna will fix a slow or unstable connection. Just find a different network. You can also bond different connections together yourself or use a service like Speedify to avoid interruptions.

Also what country are you in? T Mobile is an international carrier with networks on different continents using different frequencies.

It might not be a DA splitter but a two monitor adapter if you are plugging it directly into the laptop.

Something like this

Anker USB C to Dual HDMI Adapter, Compact and Portable USB C Adapter, Supports 4K@60Hz and Dual 4K@30Hz, for MacBook Pro, MacBook Air, iPad Pro, XPS, and More [Compatible with Thunderbolt 3 Ports] https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B0894B525X/

Board tape, sharpies, basic tools (Leatherman or screw drivers, snips, etc). Batteries for the monitor.

If you have the room, these are handy to have near by:

Folding Stool Portable Stool Chair with Anti-Skid Design, Lightweight Plastic Camping Seat in Nylon Material,650 lbs Weight Capacity, Adjustable Height for Travel/BBQ/Hiking/Outdoor or Indoor (Red) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B097CCH33P/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_33YFEQ2TJJWN0DP3X3WT?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

And I always have a good stock of advil, excedrin, etc.

Decimator MD-HX, MD-CROSS, or 12G-CROSS will replace all your AJA converters. A DAC-70 is good to have too, since it has VGA (which the Decimators don't.) If you're doing anything with audio, a Whirlwind Qbox and some XLR turnarounds. If you're doing anything with fiber, cleaning pens, a VFL (laser pen,) and a cheap power meter.

You're looking for what's called a "mixer." You could buy what would definitely feel like a fairly expensive one and adapt all the XLR mic inputs to 3.5mm TRS inputs, but a brand called Maker Hart makes budget audio mixers specifically for 3.5mm devices already.

https://www.amazon.com/Maker-hart-Microphone-Channels-Interface/dp/B07M8HDHS5/

The above is what I'd go for, although some of the reviews mention "buzzing" on the output. I'm inclined to say it's because they're using crappy audio cables, so try to make sure you use cables that you know reject interference pretty well (even if that means not using what's included in the box)

https://www.amazon.com/Maker-hart-Just-Mixer-Portable/dp/B0824Q3WY8/

If your lav mics are dynamic (meaning, you can plug them directly into a phone/computer and get audio even without them being powered), you could also save a buck by getting the above mixer. Just keep in mind that it leaves you no room for expansion (although that may not be a concern for you)

After having puked several times for the same reason, I ended up rolling my own solution with the Magewell Ultra Encode you linked, an RPi running Linux configured for bonding with Speedify, and a couple Netgear M5 MR5200s for the actual connection. You can get an RPi backpack with 5G modem if you only want one. All those items can be powered with a USB battery pack (just be careful to get the right voltage for the Pi). Definitely not as sleek as the Teradek solutions, but it has it's advantages too and doesn't cost me anything monthly other than cellular data. I've found the cellular modems in the Netgear units to be far superior to whatever LiveU currently uses in the LU600. I've been working on 3D printing something(s) to make it easier to mount the whole contraption to my cameras, but that's very TBD.

I don't really know if Sony is different, I thought they were the same as everyone else. For Tripod and kick plate I have always used the normal (big guys 1/4 and small guys 3/8): https://www.amazon.com/NICERYIG-Release-Adapter-Connecter-Accessories/dp/B0779PLTN1

Hey, I just picked this up from Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07B9M9RK2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Does H264/h265 decoding and coversion to HDMI. Basically, will decode anything that VLC player will decode and convert to HDMI.

My opinion. It’s done all the time in the US. I suggest going the hardware route over software (Speedify) for your use case. Speedify might be better if your sources are mixed, e.g, Wifi hotspot, Ethernet plus bonded modems. Can’t argue about the cost, for sure. I’d probably try testing out. I like the reliability of hardware though. Good Luck.

Ok so here's what I think is going on.

The Type C port can carry different protocols. It can carry Thunderbolt 3, which is its own protocol that contains a DisplayPort signal and other data. Alternatively, the Type C port can function in "DisplayPort Alternate Mode", where it contains just a DisplayPort signal.

While both Thunderbolt and DisplayPort Alternate Mode both contain a DisplayPort signal, they are not compatible with each other. "DisplayPort Alternate Mode" can be directly converted to a DisplayPort connector and sent to any monitor that has a DisplayPort connector, while Thunderbolt can only talk to a Tunderbolt capable device (although a few monitors are Thunderbolt capable). I believe most if not all laptops that support Thunderbolt 3 through a Type C port also support DisplayPort Alternate Mode over the same port.

(In a similar fashion, while Thunderbolt 2 and Mini DisplayPort use the same physical connector, they are not compatible protocols.)

In that other post, the Thunderbolt 3 dock extracts the DisplayPort signal from the Thunderbolt signal and exposes it directly.

Now back to your case. That ThinkVision M14 monitor explicitly states that it supports "DP1.2 Alt mode". It does not support Thunderbolt! So you need to send it a DisplayPort signal, not Thunderbolt. The Thunderbolt 2 to Thunderbolt 3 converter you linked only supports Thunderbolt not DisplayPort Alternate Mode, so that will not work. However if you connect a Mini DisplayPort to Type C cable (like this one) directly from your laptop to the monitor, your laptop will use DisplayPort Alternate Mode to send the laptop a DisplayPort signal directly.

No I don't think that will work. The specs say "This adapter is not compatible with displays that use DisplayPort or Mini DisplayPort".

However, you should be fine with a Mini DisplayPort to Type C cable, for example.