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RO system: APEC 5 stage FaucetFaucet
It’s expensive lol, the injection pump are around 500$ then you need to take the extra chlorine out so you would need some sort of carbon even like a carbon block ( filter you change out) if you shock the well it will oxidize the iron in your well ( turn it red) you may have to pump for awhile to clear it. There’s a 1000 different ways to do this. Easiest call a treatment place generally they will do a water test for free. Post said water test with suggestions on cheapest way to fix it. You may want to buy some res up for the softener (https://www.amazon.com/ResCare-RK41N-All-Purpose-Softener-Cleaner/dp/B0057FQJVM/ref=mp_s_a_1_6?adgrpid=51489783330&gclid=Cj0KCQiA1sucBhDgARIsAFoytUvi8hLtSDbID7iL3ZeyTFay585J_Jv9UqYQlaDGV1lguaYRDldjJYgaAoC9EALw_wcB&hvadid=580677527514&h...)
I did not do any of the testing. I purchased this TapScore kit and sent the sample from our kitchen faucet (three samples, actually) back to their lab for testing.
Those two Amazon books plus listening to the water Sifu podcast. Then basic YouTube videos to get an idea on how water treatment works and that’s all I used and passed easily. Good luck
Water hammering happens on pressured lines when pressure drop quickly, the water that was flowing suddenly stop.
If you close the water faucet slower, it won’t do it.
You can avoid that by adding an hammering arrestor. https://www.amazon.com/Solimeta-Hammer-Arrestor-Washing-Machine/dp/B08LDP3945/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?crid=2WCH9G4CBP8O&keywords=water+hammer+arrestor&qid=1668669586&sprefix=water+ha%2Caps%2C203&sr=8-4
Inside the ASV there shouldn't be anything that would cause a whine, but anything is possible. It is possible that the water hammer is somehow introducing air. I wouldn't imagine it is bad, but if it is it's inexpensive to replace. Just search Amazon for RO ASV https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08P725DH1
More than likely the buzzing is coming from the inline check valve, not the ASV. https://www.amazon.com/G-Murdock-Mur-lok-Component-Certified/dp/B0756JWQKF
In this case it's not about air moving through the system, it's about the water "squeaking" through the check valve it's pushing open when it's running.
A way to test this is when you hear the buzzing wiggle the tube near the check valve. If the sound warbles then you've found your source.
I feel bad, all the upvotes mean, people understand.. but I dont :/
You mean like this?
Is class one the easiest? How long have you been in the field? I recommend two practice exam books?
https://www.amazon.com/Water-Treatment-Practice-Exams-Grades/dp/1709205970/
https://www.amazon.com/Practice-Exams-Treatment-Operator-Certification/dp/1533506396/
That’ll set you back only 50 or get your company to pay for it.
Go to waternuggets.com and do both treatment and water distribution exams. Once you are getting 80+ each time you’re ready for the exam.
Lastly watersifu.com has podcast for those prepping for exam.
Fuck any big ass textbook, as you’re right there is too much info to learn. Do the practice exams over and over and you’ll pass. I’ve passed the two highest grades in my state without a day of experience as an operator.
How high of a grade is the c in florida? Each state has different terminology. witht hat said...
waternuggets.com - take both the water treatment and water distribution practice exam. Here in Maryland, I had a lot of distribution type questions on the highest and second highest water treatment exam. If you're consistently scoring in the 80s or higher than you should be ready.
watersifu - podcasts that are geared for people to pass their exams.
www.amazon.com/Water-Treatment-Practice-Exams-Grades/dp/1709205970/
www.amazon.com/Practice-Exams-Treatment-Operator-Certification/dp/1533506396/
Buy both of those books and do all the practice exams. Ive passed every exam by simply doing practice questions over and over. Use the Sacramento books only as a guide to lookup stuff that you want more info on rather than read stright through it imo.
I have been doing a lot of research and I am thinking that going RO might indeed be the best option.
How long do the Filters (particularly the RO membrane) last in the real world?
Also is there much of a difference between RO systems? For example would this cheap system work and then put in better filters when those wear out?
https://www.amazon.com/FS-TFC-Reverse-Osmosis-Filtration-System/dp/B07F71QR5L
What should I watch out for when shopping for an RO system on the cheap?
So I have a water softener after my sediment filter. My well kicks up soluble and large flecks of iron and manganese. The filters I have been using work fine, but I am curious if this method is the best way forward. I have to replace the filter every month and it is starting to get pricy with two bags of salt per month on top of it. My water softener has a chlorine injection function as well. After all of these steps, my iron levels are undetectable by the lab. Right now I use a filter similar to this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00207SAEY/ref=ask_ql_qh_dp_hza
These are much cheaper than the pleated filters. In your opinion, are they better? Thank you!
Glad I could help. One other thing you may want to add that's pretty cheap is a pressure gauge like this one. However I wouldn't recommend that exact one as mine leaked and I had to get a proper o-ring for it.
Good thoughts overall. Since your solenoid is NC your float switch will have to be set to NO if I'm reading what you're planning on doing correctly.
>to make these jugs of de-ionized water more potable
To help with this remove the post DI filter. For drinking water there's no reason to have DI water. If you want to add back more minerals then search for a filter with calcite (calcium), corosex (magnesium), or both. Remember, after you install this filter your water will no longer have a TDS of 0, and that's a good thing.
For jug sterilization search for "sani-system". That's a food grade sanitizer made for RO and softener systems. If you're using it on a 5 gallon jug you'd use a tiny, tiny drop of this chemical.
Also for your TDS rather than going with a handheld meter I would go with an inline meter with dual connections so you can monitor your incoming and outgoing water continually https://www.amazon.com/HM-Digital-DM-1-Monitor-Accuracy/dp/B001EHAZGW
> First off, cool solution. I just use something like this since I mainly fill 5 gal buckets. I also have a flood alarm sensor I use as a backup.
Neat! I haven't seen these, but it would be a good option under different circumstances.
> you'd just add another step at the end with a remineralization cartridge like this.
Once again, good to know. I wasn't aware of these, and had actually been looking at "remineralization drops" which could be added manually. I also read about others adding Himalayan salt.
I bought the system with DI filter because I thought it might be useful for cleaning electronics. It's not something I'm likely to do a lot of. Taking your advice, I think I'll run the jug-filler line between those stages. It hadn't actually occurred to me that I could until you mentioned it.
Regarding the fluoride, I didn't find an equivalent refluoridation cartridge. Although there appears to be tablets that can be taken like a vitamin supplement. Maybe I'll just use more mouthwash for the time being.
>For TDS meters I've owned several cheap ones from Amazon and they all worked well enough. I recently switched to an inline one like this though. I'd personally recommend it for convenience.
I'll taking some direction here too. I think I saw an image of that one on Amazon but skimmed over it, not realizing it's in-line. That is convenient! I was really on selecting the other because someone mentioned getting an HM one with temperature sensing, that being a preferred model.
I'll be getting this one https://www.amazon.com/Commercial-In-Line-Dual-TDS-Monitor/dp/B000VVYRVQ for the use of AA batteries vs coin cell, and the ability to calibrate.
Thank you! Glad I didn't hit order already!
That's the whole downside to those encapsulated systems. They don't make adapters and that's the whole purpose. They design it so if you wanted an adapter you'd have to go with a standard RO system.
Designing a different cap seems like overkill since it will cost you the same in the log run as using standard filters.
For example here's a standard membrane housing with wrench and connectors for $16. With this setup I wouldn't have to worry about if my welds held, am I getting bypass. etc. https://www.amazon.com/Membrane-Solutions-Housing-Replacement-Fittings/dp/B08Z3NYVBQ
I failed my T2 the first time as well as the t3 my first time too. this is what I used to pass take the practice exams over on a desperate piece of paper and make flash cards from the questions you got wrong.
Thank you for the response.
This is the check valve I am using for both the inlet water line and drain line https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0756JWQKF?ref_=cm_sw_r_cp_ud_dp_PF0QQ28Q3GRBEBTGVFP1. I wanted this at both locations because I run on a well water system with a pressure tank and if I lose power it's possible the RO holding tank pressure will exceed the house water pressure (if someone flushes a toilet or something) causing yet another path of backflow.
Dumb question, but what is the point of the air-gap? Do you think I need both the air-gap device you sent me and the check valve? Could I just use one of these things?
Your system will overcome a checkvalve as long as it is one with a low cracking pressure.
Per city code almost everywhere you still need an air gap installed after your RO but before your drain. Usually either your faucet will have this ability built in or under sink air gap that gets placed above the disposal https://www.amazon.com/Air-Gap-International-Reverse-Osmosis/dp/B01ENLOP20
That's good water. I'd just go with a filter. Most of the time RO is overkill on city water. RO is best where you have difficult to remove contamination like sodium, nitrate, and fluoride. https://www.amazon.com/06-250-10-GREEN-Reduction-MatriKX-GREENBLOCK-06-250-125-975/dp/B01N5TM7OM#
Thank you! One more question... how does that compare to this kit? The one you linked, I will just need to put rescare solution into it every so often, but the one below looks to do it automatically, maybe I am missing something?
https://www.amazon.com/Res-Up-Liquid-Resin-Cleaner-Feeder/dp/B007LZ0CT6
There ya go ;)
Can be installed in any softener. I’ll see if I have a pic of one I’ve got installed so you can see how it goes in.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005LJ8EXU/
That's what I've got. I have a well and the water is perfectly safe, but has an unpleasant taste. This filter cleans it up and re-mineralizes the it for flavor. The water it produces is similar to good bottled water.
On city water and if you're unsure of the RO life I like: https://www.amazon.com/Pentek-GRO-2550-Filtration-High-Recovery-Encapsulated/dp/B09NL5NNLS Not too expensive, easy to get filters you can pimp out, saves water. I had a nicer version made by these guys/gals they were very nice to deal with. https://www.purewaterproducts.com/black-and-white-ro
If you want to change everything all at once, I'd make sure you get a filmtec membrane which at retail, by itself costs what the Geekpure set does. Think I'd go with this, should go a year and then get just 2 good carbon blocks like 2x MatrikX CTO plus and a sediment filter. You can then cycle the 3rd stage to 2nd and only get 1 the year after. Always change your sediment filters-those don't super matter and even the good ones are less than $5. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M3O7F2Y
Can you reuse the strainer? Here is the other part
https://www.amazon.com/John-Guest-Reverse-Osmosis-Certified/dp/B00BK7HHMQ
Yes that's it! A John Guest fitting just like this one except it's a 90° so I should be able to pull out the little gray insert that's right up next to the tube right? https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B005XTQCPA/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_9C6N65MCT8RZB9WGRVVP?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I like the dual gradient filters, but personally for well water I would go with a 4.5x20 string wound filter. They seem to have a better loading capacity with larger micron sizes such as that in a well. https://www.amazon.com/Hydronix-SWC-45-2005-String-Filter-Length/dp/B00D04BAAC
The GE RO you linked will do the job. I'm not a fan of proprietary filters or gimmicky housing setups. A remineralizer filter goes in the line from the tank to the faucet. Many websites including Amazon sell them. If you're on city water I'd go with a basic 3 stage setup. You can add a remineralizer to the end of that and if you don't get your year out of the first filter, you can add a sediment filter before. Lots of people go big and get a system that tries to be too many things. You just spend more time, money, and frustration dealing with extemporaneous stuff. https://www.amazon.com/Pentek-GRO-2550-Filtration-High-Recovery-Encapsulated/dp/B09NL5NNLS There's a damaged package one for $135 I recommend going cheap and deciding the RO life is for you. You can try that for the first 6 months and then swap in a couple nicer carbon block filters like https://www.amazon.com/Chloramine-Reduction-01-250-10-MATRIKX-Replaces-01-250-125-975/dp/B08NK7JSZL and still be under the cost of the one you linked.
Get something with a non-electric permeate pump, saves tons of water.
My general rule of thumb is, "Test, don't guess."
Most softeners add a small enough amount of salt to your water where it doesn't matter (unless you are doing something like home dialysis) if they are sized properly.
Safe water does not mean the same as good water.
When you say "water tested and was fine" there's still a question about this. Is it "fine" being that it meets EPA standards for safe to drink being the only point of measure? If that's all it tested then personally I would have your well water tested for everything first. Send it off for an official lab test. Make sure to follow proper test procedures. (Test before your softener of course). This test will cost a little bit, but depending on your area your water may be good enough without any filtration of softening, or it may need something. Without testing everything else is just a guess. If someone says you have hard water, do they mean you have 2 gpg or you have 10gpg? With this knowledge it will help to determine softener regen frequency. When you know your regen frequency (and if your softener is over/undersized) this will help you to know if/why you have higher sodium in your water and can it be fixed without having to purchase a RO system with filter maintenance.
If you don't want to do the above and just want a "quick answer" then https://www.amazon.com/Digital-Salinity-Tester-Salt-Water/dp/B08GC7JCV3/ref=asc_df_B08GC7JCV3
Are each of the filters sold separately, or are there "universal" filters? And so you would recommend the Hikins RO-125G version (which is 5 stages)?
I'll also leave this link here, it seemed like a really good deal because it has extra filters but I'm not sure- https://www.amazon.de/Geekpure-Reverse-Osmosis-Drinking-Additional/dp/B0741599C2/ref=sr_1_49_sspa?crid=3S81WD90RS08J&keywords=umkehrosmose+wasserfilter&qid=1648471190&sprefix=reverse+osmosis+water+filter%2Caps%2C90&sr=8-49-spons&psc=1&smid=A3ULSIM9H4NSYW&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEyNVJVUk9VRUgyM1o1JmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUExMDIwMDg0MTRQVlRISEdBNlA4MCZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwODE2NDE1MzhHWkIzS0xFSFFNSiZ3aWRnZXROYW1lPXNwX2F0Zl9uZXh0JmFjdGlvbj1jbGlja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ==
If that's no good, I'll probably just get the Hikins. Thanks again man.
The Aquaphor systems are more compact, should be easier and less messy to maintain. The filters look expensive and if anything goes wrong you'll probably have to replace the whole thing. Of the "standard" systems I'd go with the Hikins, I usually go for the fewest stages as it's mostly an added cost instead of actual improvement. The standard systems do have more connections and orings that can leak but you can generally find replacements locally inexpensively. Whatever you get, I'd also get a TDS meter as that's pretty much the only way to check your system is working properly. https://www.amazon.de/quality-digital-measuring-dissolved-accuracy/dp/B07Y2WQB87/ref=mp_s_a_1_21?crid=302474CN79N05 Whichever looks like this and is cheapest. They're literally all the same.
Aquasana Reverse Osmosis Under Sink Water Filter System - Filters 95% Of Fluoride - Kitchen Counter Faucet Filtration - Brushed Nickel - AQ-RO-3.55 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01AZBXVS6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_MGY6MSYXC1Q7JFSGPJY7
I have an Apec pretty similar to this one www.amazon.com/APEC-5-Stage-Reverse-Drinking-Water/dp/B00I0ZGOZM along with a permeate pump to boost flow. I will be using a 12v pressure pump that hits 35psi or so to supply the filter. Waste water will be collected and used for flushing toilets and other non potable uses.
You’ll want to get a reverse osmosis filter. I have one by express water that I got off Amazon. Getting one that would work with generic filters is necessary. https://www.amazon.com/Express-Water-Ultraviolet-Reverse-Filtration/dp/B011AJ1JN6?ref_=ast_sto_dp
They have cheaper models but since you are in Brazil I would want the uv stage to kill any bacteria or viruses. If you can’t afford it they sell the base system for 150 usd.
You need to factor in the cost of ownership because the filters should be changed once or twice a year depending on the filter.
On the express water website they publish an independent test where their system reduces a bunch of contaminates by at least 99%.
One thing to ease your mind is after your RO filter, but before your RO tank install an inline remineralization filter. https://www.amazon.com/Omnipure-K2551-Inline-Calcite-Corosex/dp/B01FN2RQPQ
So as to your questions... Most people will get the minerals they need from sources other than water (even when "leached" out of the body). That being said most people do not eat a balanced diet, so other sources of minerals are needed.
Taking vitamins will help overcome as you are doing (keep in mind that with many vitamins their electrolytes is just added salt).
So, in summary, drinking only RO water and nothing else can have long term negative effects, and still better for you than drinking pop/soda every day. For your kids giving them this water won't be harmful (again as long as they're eating/drinking healthy food as well).
So, eat healthy, consume other fluids other than just RO water (milk, juice, etc.) and you're good. Also, see link above for remineralization filter that takes care of most of the issues you are concerned about.
Thanks. Would something like this work? https://www.amazon.com/Aquaboon-Replacement-Filtration-SDC-45-2005-FPMB-BB5-20/dp/B01M0CFQPV/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=4x20+water+filter&qid=1645460011&sr=8-5
Would you expect that to affect the water pressure in the house?
The P has a permeate pump. Removing it from the build only takes off $10. The number of stages is mostly a gimmick as many highly certified/expensive systems are only 3-4 stage. I'd start off with a decent 3 stage and then you can add on before and after stages if you decide the reverse osmosis life is for you. I like simple and more efficient systems like this one https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09NL5NNLS
I’ve had good luck with these on private wells. Very happy with quality of construction , can choose different filter materials dependent on needs
Is it undrinkable now? Bad taste? Seems like you have a decent treatment system already. Have you just tried a Britta filter and does it taste ok?
There are some affordable under the sink RO systems that have good reviews.
https://www.amazon.com/APEC-5-Stage-Reverse-Drinking-Water/dp/B00I0ZGOZM
It's about what those companies like to get for their setups. I usually recommend really cheap or non proprietary systems. Silly to drop 5K when $1500 produces indistinguishable results. Look what those 5K+ softeners are going for on FB marketplace when the owners can't swallow $500 service calls. https://www.simplewatersofteners.com/
Pentair Pentek GRO-2550 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09NL5NNLS
I think I'd start off simple, cheap, and efficient. The extra stages aren't really required and the effectiveness of that UV setup is suspect. It requires electricity you said you'd like to avoid and does zero to prevent your filters and membranes from getting contaminated if the boil notice was legit. I've only had one boil notice but I have everything ready to go for sanitation and replacement after it's lifted. I'd get something like this until I was sure I wanted to live the RO life
Envig chloramine shower filter, for sure. We use it and our city has chloramine in the water. We felt the difference on the skin right away after the first shower. No itching like before. And it does not need any plumbing work. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09Q9B2ZK3
Yes a very simple solution is to install a small empty fiberglass/treatment tank with an air release on the top, such as this. The air will collect in the top of the tank and automatically bleed out. The tank will need a dip tube that goes to the bottom like most treatment tanks.
thanks guys for helping, i need RO water to bring down my PH, which is like at 8.1 to 8.7 right now, making it hard for me to add nutrients to feed indoor plants
i need to save money, so i am using affordable items to build this RO system. I already bought the Carbon Filter water tank (it hold 9 Litres), so i have to find a way to put it to use now.
For the system: The dump water tube will go straight to the drainage hole,
so i will have to fill the carbon filter water tank when needed, and open the valve and use gravity to pull water from there into the water bucket for filter
i found this specialiezed RO water Pump online, but its open flow is only at 1.8 LPM
RO water Pump 24v DC 1.8 LPM (this type of pump is like 4 times more expensive than the sub. pump)
Do you think i could use the above submersible pump with 8 LPM to provide the PSI needed? ( i will set it to pump water automatically everyday for like 3-5 minutes, i will only need around 5 litre of water per week for plants)
Thanks a million for all the suggestions. This quarry is based in Ireland and our temperature swings are not extreme at all. It is 'slightly' colder at the minute as we are coming into the winter months, but we are not sure that the temperature is affecting this.
https://weatherspark.com/y/33827/Average-Weather-in-Kildare-Ireland-Year-Round
What seems to cause this is when we add trommel fines from the recycling plant (Construction and Demolition Waste). These fines probably could have gases like CO2 and Methane from the waste process. We had our poly salesman and his technical agent down yesterday and it was them that told us about the gases. They performed a jar test and showed that the poly is working in that it is floc-ing, but the flocs are floating instead of sinking and they are baffled by this. They mentioned that the COD test showed 620ppm and they indicated that this is in excess of 10x what they would have expected it to be and that it is indicative of organics (which would result in gas) in the dirty water. If we shake the jar violently, it seems to break down the flocs some more and allows the gas to escape and the flocs then fall to the bottom.
The flow or dosage has not changed (other than us experimenting with dosing levels to see if it helps) and there is no smell coming from the floating sludge. I'm learning a lot through this process, but other than suggesting we somehow need to agitate the water somehow before it enters the thickener tank, I'm afraid I've no idea where to start solving this problem.
I took the sac state boobs for both treatment and distribution then I bought these 2 books that helped prep for the exam
Practice Exams: Water Treatment Operator Certification https://www.amazon.com/dp/1533506396/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glc_fabc_GSHZYGC88G43TB4DCJY1
Practice Exams: Water Treatment Operator Certification https://www.amazon.com/dp/1533506396/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glc_fabc_BTN53RZEMPVS9YP3EFP3
I thought it looked very similar when I watched a YouTube video and he had a clack ws1.. Will this work?
Soft Water Supply Clack WS1 Interior Parts Kit Bundle with Seal Pack, Piston and Brine Piston https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07B3PGCYV/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_7TRNJ4K8KGQX0XPCGKJK
http://www.lowcostwatersofteners.com/ This guy has a YouTube channel. It seems he used to own a water softening company but now only does installs. He doesn't sell anything other than getting small affiliate money from the already established and the very few Amazon water system sellers. Most online order treatment companies that hide behind their own website but two companies exposed their products to harsh Amazon review system. I'm considering buying from them from Amazon. Anyway in this video he explains that he doesn't even use his softener anymore because the conditioner does such wonderful job. If you search Amazon for conditioner you'll see some great reviews and some not so great reviews. I highly doubt that companies like AO Smith will scam for fake reviews AO Smith Whole House Salt Free Water Descaler - Water Softener Alternative - 6yr, 600,000 Gl - AO-WH-DSCLR https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07R8FF5Q9/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_MSFNCZ1JT63684Q46XXJ?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
This was the best deal I ever came across. I literally bought a second one just to keep on hand, because of how much of a steal it was. Fully automatic and adjustable pressure cutoff and kick-on, diaphragm booster pump, automatic solenoid membrane flushing, faucet and tank, all for $120:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07NR13CGN/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I remember going through the system and pricing it out. I couldn't come close to building it myself for that price.
Thanks to the auto pressure control and booster pump, we could run it to the fridge for the ice maker. Only caveats were that it didn't come with the john guest fitting for water supply and I don't think it came with the saddle for the brine. Also, the restrictor that it came with was undersized (300cc instead of 400cc), making it more efficient (1:1 product water:waste), but vastly shortening the membrane life. These were all easy and cheap fixes though.
Add a camelcamelcamel alert to see if it comes back for sale. But if it doesn't, at least you have a baseline for buying another. You might also find a copy of it on eBay/Amazon.
Fundamentos para el tratamiento de aguas residuales I ― Tratamiento líquido https://smile.amazon.com/dp/1572783680/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_R4YG1TFGAB91X534F3EG?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
There’s this in spanish
We installed a system like this. Instead of using the water filters that came with it we just connected our RO system straight into it. Gives you got or cold RO water on demand. Also you can sell the filters that came with it for around $80 on eBay to recoup some of your cost. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B089LGBJKZ
I think if I were going to put in the effort and spend the money i would just spend alittle extra and get a cabinet Reverse Osmosis system. There are some highly rated ones that you can get on amazon for under $300. Some come with the special faucet for the water and some are even tankless: https://www.amazon.com/Waterdrop-Reverse-Osmosis-Filtration-Tankless/dp/B082CZ9XZ9/ref=dp_fod_1?pd_rd_i=B082CZ9XZ9&psc=1
Here's the unit I bought. It's supposed to be higher end, but I did notice it's only rated to 2000 TDS, but still I would have thought it would perform better than it is.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HSV2WZA/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
The resin bed is crystal clear. I probably go through a bag or two of salt a month, nothing excessive.
You want carbon for the removal of chlorine. There's some filters that attach to a hose. You could just attach a short hose to your spigot and fill from there. However those cartridges are pretty expensive around $30 a pop and you'll be replacing them fairly frequently. It'll be more cost effective to buy a Brita and just use that.
I understand you can't use an under sink RO system, but they do have counter top system that can be quickly attached a detached and used as needed. I would assume if you purchase the right fitting or an adapter you could use it with your spigot as well
I'm not recommending this product specifically. This is just what showed up first in a Google search.
As for the pink stains in your bathroom. It's not hardness. Hardness is caused by minerals like calcium and magnesium. It causes scaling which will look like white crystals around a faucet. What you have is a type of bacteria. Hit that stuff with some bleach and bleach your bathroom/toilet frequently. It sounds like serratia marcescens. While it is a bacteria it's not dangerous but it is unsightly and gross, but it has nothing to do with your quality of water
If you passed the treatment exam, you’ll pass the distribution one. I found the D2 was really easy in comparison to the T2 exam
Practice Exams - Water Distribution Operator Certification: Grades 1 and 2 https://smile.amazon.com/dp/1985652390/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_C8SX2MD3270QTXDS5T7M
That book helped me a lot
I think one of my options might be the same, or at least similar. Have this Aquasure bundle and this Fleck currently in my cart.
The Aquasure is appealing, since it includes everything in one purchase and the reviews of the water softener are good, but not sure about the quality of the other parts bundled. Wondering if I'd be better off buying everything separate.
>It won’t hurt but probably isn’t needed.
I like the taste of hard water so bought an NSF-certified system that includes a remineralization filter (express water). The problem is their combined remineralization/alkaline filter raised the pH to 11.5, starting at around 7.8 (tap/city).
I couldn't find any studies looking at consumption of such high pH water, except one where it resulted in 26% less tissue growth in baby rats (alkaline vs. regular water diet).
Any suggestions for ways to remineralize my RO water without increasing the pH by so much?
I'm kind of worried about all these people out there drinking pH 11+ water... thoughts?
PS My wife is pregnant and we are worried about PFAs and random other chemicals that we already know are in the city water supply (they're in every city's water supply). The FDA/EPA guidelines ppm limits are best guesses- we don't really know long-term consequences of many of these chemicals, so why risk it when you can remove with RO for a couple hundred bucks?
Alright. Take a big, deep breath brother/sister. You will be okay, I promise. Maybe drink a nice, hot cup of tea and relax a bit.
I have been working in municipal water treatment for 10 years, and I have 15 more years of experience in water chemistry before that. I don’t know where you live, but the odds are that your tap water is perfectly safe to drink.
That said, I personally run my drinking water through a simple, carbon block filter. I use a countertop filter housing that accepts standard 2.5”x10” cartridges. Something like this:
https://www.amazon.com/Countertop-Drinking-Pesticides-Herbicides-Chlorine/dp/B079N2GY4G/
I replace the filter cartridge once per year. It is inexpensive and effective enough to filter out chlorine and organics. I suggest that you do a blind taste test on your tea and decide for yourself.
Practice Exams: Water Treatment Operator Certification https://smile.amazon.com/dp/1533506396/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_j8syFb69Q7W9E
Then do this. It’s multiple choice and has some math problems in there as well as the answer key to show you how to solve the problems
Applied Math for Water Plant Operators - Workbook https://smile.amazon.com/dp/0877628750/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_MSfvFbQ9TW8V6
Practice Exams: Water Treatment... https://www.amazon.com/dp/1533506396?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Use those 2 books to help you study.
I'm on a budget at the moment so I need something with a lower upfront cost. I looked around and saw that PUR has a system for $24. Would you recommend this?