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The most popular reviews in /r/Welding:
>Clobrieh Mench
2 seconds on google, first link https://www.amazon.com/Resistant-Clobrieh-Mench-Protection-Flexibility/dp/B01N0ZMN59
i was just looking for a cheap long sleeve FR shirt for TIG and I can give some insight. pretty sure this is the cheapest welding jacket on Amazon
so not totally their fault. they're just not given many choices.
ended up going with the blaze orange one since the flames are tacky
OSHA, the people I'd usually defer to, give both a yes and a no to gloves. Depends on what specific paper you're looking at.
I either don't wear gloves, or (like with flap wheels) wear 13 mil thickness nitrile to keep the abrasive dust and crap off my hands so that when they go back into the welding mitts it doesn't transfer. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006C3MTEO?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2_dt_b_product_details
Nitrile will rip/pop/abrade well before your skin would, so it's a non-factor if it comes in contact with a wheel. Still wouldn't use them with a lathe though.
Either way, if you're relying on gloves or not-gloves to 'stay safe' you're a moron. Gloves are absolutely not the thing to focus on.
The guy who was doing benchwork at waist level and had a 12" cutoff grinder kick into his stomach and rip open his guts in a split second WAS wearing gloves. And a face shield. Improper angle and guard.
The guy... guyS who have has 4.5" cutoff wheels pop and bury themselves in their face/eyes (plenty of examples) had improper/ missing guards, improper angle, unsafe/missing PPE.
The grinder is a powerful tool, but it's effetely a knife moving at 220mph (for 4.5, larger diameters even faster). Your reaction time is not good enough. The only proper reaction is anticipation via PPE and proper use.
(Boy these long posts look like an argument lol)
Thank you, just bought myself one - link for the lazy.
GVS SPR457 Elipse P100 Dust Half Mask Respirator with replaceable and reusable filters included, blue, m/l size https://www.amazon.com/dp/B013SIIBFQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_PJ14TBNJX1RZNYTQKXWS
What your referring to is Tiger Patch. I found the link for it on Amazon. Tiger Tape is actually a product for quilting.
Intercooler piping for an R32 Gtst skyline with a RWD RB26DETT out of a gtr. I don't use mandrel bends, everything is straight pipe cut using soh-cah-toa or sin, cos, tan. Album
North Dakota is where it's at right now. If you can handle the cold and the wind, that's where the money is.
http://www.indeed.com/jobs?q=weld&l=North+Dakota
They need welders on the pipelines, the rigs, the trucks, the shops, everywhere.
These Hexarmor glasses are the ones I use at work(Not working as a welder right now). https://www.amazon.com/HexArmor-MX300/dp/B07XSLX9N7
They do pretty well. The anti-fog is like a stick-on layer, not something that rubs off easy.
Edit: The anti-fog does make them a PITA to clean. Normal glasses cleaner doesn't work, and damages the coating. The only thing I've found that works well is dish soap.
While not exactly they more or less look like these. And when I wore a mask they didn’t fog up and what little they did was vey minor and towards the bottom edge.
HexArmor VS300 Safety Glasses with Anti-Fog and Scratch-Resistant Coatings https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07BFK7LC8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_8V5BR9XTTKRVB94VMCME
I've seen china made spot welders for spot welding thin stainless to the ends of batteries. I believe you can find them on amazon.
https://www.amazon.com/SUNKKO-737G-Battery-Welding-Batteries/dp/B07M9JSQ7L/
This is just one example of many.
Everyone I know calls them MIG pliers. Heres a link. Not an affiliate or anything, just the first thing I could come up with quick.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DSW42NI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc_C95DDBMVC9DF19BQ18QE
If you can afford it, get a helmet with 4 sensors like this one. Less chance of arc flash. I have this very same helmet as a back up to my Lincoln Viking 3350.
At least on the ones I've seen, its a special stinger with air channels to blast roughly parallel with the electrode. The places I've work that did it all had big screw compressors and miller 1500 amp power supplies to run it, but they were running lots of 3/4" or 1" carbons.
Edit: here you can see the air holes on this stinger
Check this shit out on amazon for over a thousand bucks. Its fucking iron pipe screwed together. My to-do list involves making one for the missus myself out of 50 bucks worth of fittings.
Have you looked at surplus gas mask bags? They should do the trick. A cursory search on Amazon yielded several results like this.
It's worth noting that Everlast now sells a MIG/TIG/Stick machine that does AC/DC TIG. As far as I know, they're the only company offering this. Their website doesn't list it yet. It's only been out a couple of months, and they always seem to keep new products off their sit until they've been out for a few months, but here's an amazon link if you want to read over specs. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075H41B11
I like the 3m half mask with the quick latch. I use it with literally every kind of welding AND grinding. Lots of dust and smoke while metal working.
https://www.amazon.com/3M-Comfort-Facepiece-Reusable-Respirator/dp/B00IF7RCU6
I'm not a fan of Obama, but to say that he alone is purposefully bringing in immigrants to lower wages is bullshit. Companies left and right are either outsourcing jobs or bringing in cheaper legal immigrant labor (h1b visas).
I know this isn't specifically for your Hobart machine; however, I figured that it may help you figure out how to get yours set up as it may be similar.
Very interesting. Trust pilot gives good ratings for website here.
Might be possible to upgrade/add a different lens as the window looks standard
Depending on what you want - I use Libreoffice draw - Libreoffice is an open source office suite - I don't know what you are looking for but you could make a bunch of details with that and go from there -
Weird looking setup, so I did some digging to confirm whether or not it was originally supposed to be used like I suspected from looking at the parts.
Apparently it originally came with two small ( think battery charger size) clamps that screwed on where the holes are at the end of the handle and you could use it as a carbon arc torch or remove one clamp from the handle assy and use it as a conventional electrode holder. Yours seems to be missing the clamps.
Most interesting thing that comes up when you Google the name is that Sears had a safety recall on that model welder in 1979. http://news.google.com/newspapers?nid=1356&dat=19791011&id=2y0TAAAAIBAJ&sjid=tAUEAAAAIBAJ&pg=4623,3122430.
Sorry, I'm a day behind! Here's the calculations: http://imgur.com/cEAPSZE
I used a design which follows this weight rack, it should be easier for you to build and weld-up. http://www.fitocracy.com/knowledge/wp-content/uploads/2013/10/db-rack.jpg
Some notes.. which you'll know if you look at the calculations... 1) I took 1000 lbs per level as a conservative estimate. This resulted in using L2x2x1/8 angle iron to span across. With two pieces of angle iron being used per level! (I used A36 Structural for the calculations. Anything stronger will obviously work.)
2) For the horizontal beams, I assumed that the extensions would be no longer than 1ft to where the center of the loading is. This resulted in using 2x2x1/8 square tubing. (Ie, to the central distance between the angle irons) If this will not be the case, let me know and I can re-do this part.
3) For the vertical tubing I again used the 1ft to center of load assumption. This resulted in 2.5x2.5x5/16 square tubing! (There is a lot of stress created at the bottom where it mounts to the foot.) The foot as a result, should also be made from the same material.
4) I did not do any weld calculations. I'm confident that you can judge what will be a good enough weld such that it is stronger than the surrounding tubing. There is not a lot of force in most of the welds except for the weld holding the foot on.
Good - Hao (sounds like how, as in how do you do?
No - Bu (sounds like Boo, what a ghost says) You can make a question by saying "hao bu hao?" Which basically means good, not good? If they say Hao in reply it means good/yes, if bu hao it means no good/no.
I'm at work but I'll finish up later.
Or you can go over to /r/chineselanguage and ask a native speaker...
Edit, I googled it on a larth and this came up http://www.cram.com/flashcards/chinese-terms-for-welding-industry-1300520
Thanks! I've been very happy with all of these for my more limited uses.
I use these consumables. There's a billion others too, but make sure to match whatever machine you get. Supposedly the CUT50's are all the same.
If you are talking about safety glasses, then I ordered some prescription safety glasses with a foam gasket to keep dust out. For when I'm wearing contacts I usually just wear some 3M Saftey glasses the shaded ones are my favorite, I use them for oxyfuel cutting and just as sunglasses. The only equipment interference I've had with any of them, is the cloth masks fogging them up, but if you are wearing a properly fitted respirator, that shouldn't be an issue either.
There are FCAW specific cups that you can get from Miller that slip/screw on in place of the copper gas tip. Its cone shaped and the small end is at the tip. It covers the contact tip.
I use these:
Edit:
Lincoln Electric Roll Cage welding gloves. Good back of the hand heat resistance and good dexterity. Go to a actual welding supply store and try some on.
I highly recommend either Jackson headgear which I fit to my old pipeliner without modification
I had no problem with it, but my hood was stolen. Then these weren't available, so I modified a Lincoln headgear and the hood to fit it. It took a lot of work and it's still pretty ghetto.
Blueprint Reading for welders. It’s a work but and has quizzes at the end of each chapter. It’s the most thorough book on the subject but expensive. If you look around you can find bootleg versions online. Or maybe borrow thru your local library’s account.
https://www.amazon.com/Blueprint-Reading-Welders-Spiral-Version/dp/1133605788
This is easy. Get yourself some boot stays for tall boots. Its basically a a flexible sheet of plastic that is used to keep boots from creasing while they aren’t being worn. This will open your gloves up to let them dry out. Something like this Ruisita 5 Pairs (10 Sheets) Boot Shaper Form Inserts Boots Tall Support for Women and Men https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07MV7C3HV/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_3R6KSYBD5XD3D2ETSXN0
If you have a boot dryer use that. Air circulation is more important than heat. Something like this will work. LAVIEAIR Shoe Dryer, Boot Deodorizer, Ultra Quiet, White Color https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01HPQST5Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_RWDWZ86H1D48X9YYQJ81?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Also I recommend something called a UV Shoe Sanitizer. Put this in the gloves without the boot stays. The UV light will kill odor causing bacteria with UVC and the tiny amount of ozone they produce. The light has to be able to reach the material inside to be effective so you may have to fabricate something to keep the gloves open. The Shoe sanitizers usually run for 10 mins or so per cycle so you may have to reposition them to get the light into the gauntlets and near the palm and fingers.
Probably worth mentioning, the fumes from welding, especially if paint is burning too, can really fuck you up. I'd recommend at least welding outside and making sure to stand away the fumes. It's probably even worth getting a cheap respirator.
I recently picked up this one for $25
I like the Wilton sledge hammers. I've used them for years. I've only ever seen one fail and that was under special circumstances.
The only Speedglas I can afford would probably be the 9100. It's about 11 bucks more than the lincoln but it looks like the viewing window is a lot smaller. Why is the Speedglas so much better? I don't know anything about them.
Not specifically recommending this one or any other this is just the first link I grabbed
This good won't break the bank but it's widely praised as being a fantastic hood with good balance and great viewing area. Mine arrives tomorrow, ill let you know how I like it.
Harris sells a good set that is not a bad price. dont mess with beat up old regulators. https://www.amazon.com/Harris-Ironworker-Oxygen-Acetylene-4400369/dp/B01DN2UGAK/ref=sr_1_
Ha.
GF bought me some Ex Officio briefs for Christmas. I’m in Alaska, so don’t have the heat problem.
But they’re comfortable as hell, no swamp ass, chafing - and they don’t bunch up. That shit used to drive me crazy under a pair of coveralls.
This is a NEMA 10-50 plug. The standard welder plug is NEMA 6-50.
Here is an adapter on Amazon to a standard welding plug.
had redwings (usa made), had custom wescos, had a bunch of the regular stuff before those but i settled on a usa thorogood boot i get once a year from amazon here
everyone is different tho, i just think everyone has to go thru at least $1000 worth of foot wear to find their best fit. forget about whatever crap a salesperson that hasnt wore work boots for a week of his/her life tells you.
edit: also see my reply to a comment about darn tough socks down below!
edit 2: of course now i read the boot barn limitation. maybe its because of reimbursement or a company boot allowance but my footwear is on their site here in composite toe. $50 more than steel toe, hmm. i am forced to wear steel toe only but they have both. good luck
Really the way I described is the best way you're going to be able to avoid leaving a fish eye without a foot pedal or thumb control your only way of not leaving a fish eye is decreasing the amperage yourself (ie lengthening the arc leading to a quick snap off) Gas coverage will be sufficient as long as you're using a jumbo gas lens. https://www.amazon.com/ArcOne-T240-10-Tradesman-Horizontal-Auto-Darkening/dp/B003WE9XXQ/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1528846579&sr=8-3&keywords=auto+lens That is a decent lens for a pipeliner or tigerhood style hood, there's no need for an ultra expensive hood as the only advantage they would have could be in out of position welding as they would have 4 arc sensors versus 2 for the drop in lens that I linked for you off Amazon. The big thing to not get flashed with this lens is to not unintentionally block your 2 sensors at the top of lens as this will cause you to get flashed. P.S. you always have the option to trail off to the side of the weld buff it down a little and then have a completely clean restart. But in my experience and my industry a little heat tint doesn't matter much but our applications might be completely different, if you're just learning right now I'd focus on those basics in the above post that I mentioned. Good luck :)
I don't know the stats on it but paying $600+ for HF stuff seems a little iffy. I'd go full-cheap on Amazon TIGs before I spent that much on a HF welder.
That said, I don't know shit about TIG (yet) and haven't looked at the specs of anything I just talked about, so my advice is worth about as much as you paid for it.
If you do end up with a passive, get a good lens and take care of it. The gold lenses rely on the gold coating to reflect a significant portion of the light, so if they get scratched they need to be thrown away. The benefit to reflecting the light instead of absorbing it is 1, it keeps a lot of heat out of your face, and 2, the reflected light actually helps light up your work area a little more.
The Philips Safety lenses are $20 on Amazon, and are great. You can do better, but not for $20. https://smile.amazon.com/Coated-Green-Welding-Filter-Shade/dp/B005D7KGY0
I also have some really old ones that are marked anchor, and they're great as well. I'll continue using them until they break or get scratched.
if you just want to get in hours and add welding to your garage I would totally recommend a dual voltage HF start tig welder. buy off amazon and get a 3 year protection plan with good reviews and don't sweat the haters. my Buddy has had a great experience with this one. you will need a bottle and a foot pedal. https://www.amazon.com/EVERLAST-PowerARC-160STH-160amp-Voltage/dp/B00H2VETB6/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1538001782&sr=8-3&keywords=tig+welder+everlast
then there is this one, no idea on quality, id buy one for fun and see how it goes. just get a warranty. if it only lasts three years it cost you like 30 cents a day.
https://www.amazon.com/Torch-Inverter-Welder-Voltage-Welding/dp/B06XD7TCGN/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1538002117&sr=8-5&keywords=dual+voltage+tig+welder
Thank you for the tip, and I appreciate that you were attuned to the fact I fit in the scratch start market and not the more expensive models that a more experienced person may need. I don't know a whole lot about TIG even though my "stick welder" is actually set up to run TIG if I had a tank. Here it is for reference on Amazon, but please don't tell me if I made a mistake buying it... the deed is done! haha
It’s not my favorite. There’s a sliding scale with welding hoods imo. It’s green on the left and color on the right. The speedglas is the greenest out of all the expensive hoods. Its got good clarity and is very comfortable on the eyes but has very little color and is difficult to use in the light stage for example for grinding. Then there are hoods like the optrel and arc one, they have an incredible amount of color and clairty but it isn’t as comfortable on the eyes. It also is very easy to work with in the light mode. I used to really want a speedglas because I used to think that they were the most advanced hood. I now know that they are the least advanced hood in terms of technology. I was pretty underwhelmed when I got the chance to weld with one.
I don’t want to unduly worry you but I would take honestly take a passive $40 hood or a $130 auto dark over the speedglas because I need that clarity and color in the light stage and the color in the dark stage. I just can’t see the puddle that well in the speedglas as I can with the arcone singles 240hd or arcone bffvx or the lincoln hoods or the sentinel A50 or even passives.
I attached an amazon link with the 3350, I suggest you read the first review, that guy had a speedglas. Either way, i’m sure he’ll love it. The speedglas isn’t a bad hood and i’m sure it’s an improvement on what hems using.
Lincoln Electric K3034-4 VIKING 3350 Welding Helmet, Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07V9G94NK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_fn0VDb1PB1V96
When I was in a production shop I used this It's quite comfortable and decently priced for something that has great quality
Rubber palmed gloves work great for all around non-welding. Quick search and this type is what I’m talking about. Find a better quality set though.
https://www.amazon.com/Extra-Thick-Rubber-Palm-Gloves-Large/dp/B00O7SBN16
I got the following from Benchmark Abrasives based on weld.com recommendations. They seem decent for the price. 4.5" x 7/8" Premium High Density Jumbo Zirconia Flap Disc - 10 Pack (All-In-One Pack) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07BH45L1X/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_slWtFbX7ERWZ8
Ah sweet, I like the Jackson headgear but had no idea that it would be compatible. Is it this one? https://www.amazon.com/Jackson-Safety-20696-sustituto-ajustable/dp/B004RIFGE6/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?dchild=1&keywords=jackson+headgear&qid=1596590943&sprefix=Jackson+he&sr=8-3
Some 3 phase welders work either single or 3 phase. That's the first thing I'd check.
https://www.amazon.com/Rotary-Phase-Converter-AR5-Three/dp/B010UNLISE/
They do have phase inverters but one that's big enough for a welder is probably much more expensive than just buying the proper single phase welder.
it says on the amazon it's for "arc" and says "suitable for all welding"
so i could just cover my face, i wanna weld but helmets are like 30£
i try send amazon link
on amazon it says when u strike an arc it auto darkens, i don't know if i can send links but ill try, it says "arc"
>The tombstone! They’re OK but you’d be better off with something that has DC options.
https://www.amazon.com/Nxtop-Bridge-Rectifier-MDQ-200A-Module/dp/B07DBPC8PM/
Will also need a heat sink, thermal paste, cable lugs, etc.
That is a Miller LPR-100 with odor relief P100 cartridge Here is a link you might find it cheaper if your city or town has a local welding supply store (maybe) https://www.amazon.com/Miller-LPR-100-Respirator-Relief-ML00995/dp/B01BZAHQMS Since GVS makes the Miller mask and is a derivative of their GVS Elipse half mask which cost less here’s a link to that as well -I wish I would’ve known this before I purchased the Miller respirator since I love saving a buck. With the exception of good tools good food good haircuts 😂
Regardless of the pictures in this Amazon link, you should definitely wear safety glasses when using one of these.
It looks awe-inspiring if it’s the first can crusher you’ve ever made. I know it’s a bit challenging to create something like this, especially if you’re an amateur in things like this. So, for the first one, it’s an outstanding job! Well done!
But if it’s not your first one, you better work on the design more. I mean, the edges are a bit rough, and the whole thing looks massive. No offense, but people now care about the design. Even if you want to place this can crusher in your garage or next to the outdoor trash bins. People nowadays prefer something sophisticated. So, consider the design, especially if you make those things for commercial purposes. You can check out this wall mounted can crusher and try to make something similar. Or, look for some examples online. There are plenty of ideas that can inspire you.
My buddy who's a retired pipe welder swears by this machine.
Canadian company, solid 1 yr warranty.
You need the 3m half mask with the 2 "disks" (filters) on either side. Put your marker on it, they go missing (which is disgusting lol).
No endorsement for the seller below, but this is the model. Then you switch out the filters based on what you're doing. The quick latch is the shiznit. Get some cleaning pads for it, clean it and store it in a sealable bag to deter bacteria growth.
Go to Amazon get some Velcro works Awesome . Here’s the link:
LED Headlamp Flashlight with...
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B077TBT658?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Strenco 2 x 4 Inch - Hook and... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07T9JC4TL?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share Really light light. Good price👍
The ads say waterproof but you might still want to use Sno-Seal Its' the best water proofing compound you can get https://www.amazon.com/Atsko-Sno-Seal-Original-Beeswax-Waterproofing-Net-overall/dp/B00CQJDQ90/ref=sr_1_26?keywords=silicone+waterproofing+for+boots&qid=1669769721&sr=8-26
I personally have found those to have clearance issues. You can fix some of the issue with the flat pink filter cartridges but it’s still not going to allow the hood all the way down. I use this miller respirator and it fits quite well under my hood.
Yes, will fit just about any 3M mask, they have the same bayonet mount. And yes below would be a good deal especially since its easier to breath and much more budget friendly (grinding loads it up quick.
https://www.amazon.com/3M-Advanced-Particulate-Filter-Count/dp/B07ZG25BY5
Searching amazing for 100% cotton socks turned up some real matches as well as some spurious ones. These were the first normal length ones. https://smile.amazon.com/Davido-Socks-Italy-100-cotton-White/dp/B01CY5SYE2/
Not actually a welder but if the spatter or sparks reach your socks, you have already lost the battle. Hot stuff trapped in your boots isn't a good plan. Your pants, spats, or boot gaiters should cover the tops of your boots. You don't want waistband, pockets, cuffs, boot openings, ears, etc. to catch the spatters and hold them against or near your skin without something substantial, like leather, in between. Not to say you shouldn't get your 100% cotton/wool socks.
Let me state that I have no experience with fire watch. But, your health is more important than any job. If you feel that your job is damaging your health, you should really quit, or at the very least, ask for proper PPE. You only have one set of eyes and you describe some symptoms of arc eye, so whatever PPE your employer gave you, is not protecting you effectively.
I always laughed at welding glasses, but I am wondering if they would not make sense for your case? You set them to a low shade. Something like this. It would not protect your skin from UV, but at least you would keep a working pair of eyes...
Suggestion: throw those in the trash where they belong. Get a couple Magswitch multi angles
Fabrication game changers for sure.
Have that one and found this one better than any of the others
Doesn't fog up glasses and fits under my helmet.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IF7RCU6/ref=emc\_b\_5\_t
Filter
I run this: https://www.grainger.com/product/3PB41?RIID
With these: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009POHH94/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Fits great under my 3M Speedglas.
Heat looks alright but you should use that latter pair of settings.
If you want it to sit more flat out, say, a 3/32" chamfer on eaither side of the part. You could also try U-grooving it.
https://www.amazon.com/FOLCONROAD-Air-Powered-Chamfering-Hand-Held-Deburring/dp/B098QMDW1Z/
I use the miller respiratorthat’s low profile and designed to fit under their hoods. The filters faster because they’re smaller.
i bought this one https://www.amazon.com/GVS-SPR457-Elipse-Respirator-Medium/dp/B013SIIBFQ/ref=sr_1_8?keywords=respirator&qid=1668046005&sr=8-8
fits under my welding hood good.
Like others have said, a square is a good option. Otherwise if your more comfortable with a protractor, get one of the nice SS ones so you don't have to print one every time. Keep it in your bag, desk, work space. https://www.amazon.com/General-Tools-Square-Metal-Protractor/dp/B00004T7TB/ref=asc_df_B00004T7TB/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=309849796982&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=11821079203841178401&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&...
The digital angle finders are also pretty slick if you use them often.
I don't think the field of vision difference would be significant to you. The Vulcan looks like a nice hood with excellent reviews. If you buy the 10.1 inch viewing area, you are not going to kick yourself later and say you can't weld because you don't have 13.5 inch field of view. Hobby welds tend to be directly in front. If I need to get supplies away from the weld, I just raise the hood anyway since I am not where I would be flashed by someone else. I did buy a Dekopro 12.1 inch viewing area hood as my first hood in June for about $60 https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07XXRHGRP which is completely adequate for my hobby needs. I wanted four sensors, a large viewing area, auto darkening, good reviews, and cheap. I later purchased another hood (used $25 Lincoln) at garage sale I might like a little better because of the adjusting knob on the outside and it came with cheater lenses which help me. I use both hoods. I tend to look for bargains and make do until I find spending more would make a difference.
See if you can find tips easier for this replacement gun: https://www.amazon.com/YESWELDER-Chicago-Electric-Complete-Replacement/dp/B07MQCRJ36
I would spend my money on a yes welder I have had one for over two years and have burnt over 100 lbs of wire all I had to change is the ground lead. You will not regret it I'm thinking of getting there 5 in one unit. So I can have a plasma cutter.
If it's only been a few months since you broke it, you're definitely not fully healed yet. Talk to your instructors, they should know that working with an injury is no good, and you should know it too. I'm also a woman and have a bad wrist (5.25" circumference - tiny), and I "toughed it out" for years which only damaged it further, plus I was doing so much computer work at one point that a cyst formed near a nerve so it couldn't be cut out.
I keep 4 braces handy depending on how it hurts, one 3D printed custom fit (it's on thingiverse), one "bowling" style brace, one with a full-metal shank that goes from the middle of my arm to my palm (like a cast), and one velcro/ace bandage style. Because I finally started taking real care of the problem, I rarely ever have to use them anymore. A weekend of using power tools will still wreck it on Monday if I'm not careful though. (The cyst resolved itself after a year of working at home due to Covid, but it was the formation of the cyst that really scared me into taking it seriously.) I also picked up a far infrared flashlight thing on Amazon that works wonders. (It was this one, but I only paid around $50 for it on sale: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0B3Y8K62H) It's like heat therapy from the inside, hard to explain, but feels awesome.
Get a strong brace, take breaks and ice it, ice/heat at home and wear a brace to bed if you need to; see if the instructors might modify your projects so that you can show the skill mastery with a shorter weld time; or drop that portion of the class and retake it later.
Do not compromise your health, you do not want to have crippling arthritis in a few years.
Ugh, now my wrist hurts just thinking about it.
I've been using these kind for years https://amazon.com/dp/B00LH0V1WI
unlike foam you can instantly pull them out to hear/ put them back in/ put one halfway in...
I superglue the string in because they fall off too easy. I use the same pair for weeks and wash them off quick whenever they're dirty.
In my experience foam plugs are trash because 99% of people walk around without putting them in right, half of people are just pretending to wear them basically and don't care about their hearing, the other half don't even know how you're actually supposed to use them.
Homemade version of ibeam climbing shoes.
https://www.amazon.com/HOUBYU-Column-Climber-Climbing-Columns/dp/B097SJVCX4
Nothing too bonkers. I wish he'd throw a wee bit of rope around his waist though.
Seriously this...new respirators are so cheap, why would you waste your time on used?
https://www.amazon.com/3M-70071618030-7502-HALF-MASK/dp/B000N7LOWI/
The only reason I've ever gotten rid of a respirator is that it's worn out, so it goes in the garbage.
Try and take a welding blueprint reading course at community college. If you can't swing that, order the workbook and learn yourself.
I think this was the one we used in class.
https://www.amazon.com/Welding-Print-Reading-John-Walker/dp/160525911X
Yeah, you do need a 3m respirator to use them though, https://www.amazon.com/-/es/respirador-2297-part%C3%ADculas-construcci%C3%B3n-utilidades/dp/B009POHH94/ref=sr\_1\_29?\_\_mk\_es\_US=%C3%85M%C3%85%C5%BD%C3%95%C3%91&crid=VTPIXSOH7G05&keywords=p100&qid=1664252518&qu=eyJxc2MiOiI1LjA0I...
I bought some on Amazon, cheap, and green, IMO that’s way better a color to see with, and plastic, i wouldn’t recommend glass though. Here’s the link if you’re interested
2 EACH Shade 10 Glass GOLD 2" x... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07J1ZPP42?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Depending on what type of welding you do...considering you mentioned NDT i assume structural.. 3M makes a pull over hood for the AdFlo that you wear under it. It designed for welding nd grinding. Machine washable too. Though pricy they last ages. https://www.amazon.com/3M-Speedglas-Full-06-0700-83-Black/dp/B008BJYPEO
Don't you also need special gas canisters? When I was looking into it, it seemed like the cheap welder I bought would be incapable of aluminum welding, and to get one that could would be a lot more expensive + require a spool gun and a canister of I think argon or helium gas.
Thanks again and happy cake day! I just ordered this Deko 160A inverter welder, it’s rated at 5.8kw at 220. Hopefully it gives me no issues.
Some advice: You’re gonna weld miles of ugly before you weld anything great. Don’t get discouraged keep practicing, especially when someone else is buying wire and consumables. you learn from exposure, not textbooks, try new things ask for assistance from experienced welders and you’ll grow faster.
Something I’d highly recommend is a respirator. Miller LPR-100 Half Mask... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01BZAHQMS?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
https://www.amazon.com/CK-CK17-Torch-Body-150A/dp/B00JV8OAOE
Not worth buying the cheap knockoffs in my opinion. Genuine CK heads will last pretty well, but all flex head torches will fail eventually. They're a consumable item and one really hard bend usually kills them.