What are /r/arcade's favorite Products & Services?

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800 and it looks beautiful. The listing is on facebook marketplace. There always really sweet deals on there.(mostly when I dont have money haha)

Here is the link let me know if it doesn't work.

https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/217700215799770/

That's one of the lucky things about the Gallag bootleg boards. Whoever originally designed them essentially did a big "f-you" to Namco by reverse engineering all their custom chips and using bog standard 74LS logic chips. So for example, that tan daughter board with the six chips was originally one custom chip on the Galaga boards from Namco. The bootleg boards can run the original Roms, as well as the bootleg roms they were shipped with -- just plug in the rom chips.

So, I pretty much ordered all my repair parts from mouser and Jameco, and most of them were less than 50 cents or a dollar each.

With regard to soldering, it's more the desoldering skill that's operable in my case. It's easy to cook a PCB when you're trying to desolder stuff and thereby damage the traces (in fact it appears that that already happened on my board -- the green bodge wires are mostly there because someone fried some traces from what I can tell). I use a Hakko desoldering tool, which was a bit of an indulgence for me because of its cost, but it's payed for itself many times over. I've repaired many older PCBs with it, and rarely damage the traces now (the pump based solder suckers and desoldering braid are okay, but not nearly as convenient or damage free).

I'd definitely recomend Redream. One of the simplest emulators I've ever used and it works extremely well. If you decide you like it, you can upgrade to the Premium version for $5 and gain access to upscaling options.

Yeah I've currently got this behind it and it sticks pretty high up.

I like it, but think it could be better. I've seen others put the TMNT logo bigger on it. Just haven't gotten around to it.

Most of the games are on our [itch.io page](318arcade.itch.io), but they're not as up to date as the arcade versions. You can find 15 Coins (the orange one) on Google Play. The developer should be putting it back on the iOS App Store soon. You can find When It Hits the Fan is on Heartfelt Games itch.io page. It's also coming to Steam on the 19th.

I don't have CAD files or blueprints or anything highly detailed like that. I keep a template around that's got all of the holes in the right place. When I update the design, I update the template and fill in the old holes with dowel rods.

I wouldn't buy it, but that seems like a fair price. Those $25 lid supports are nice.

I have no idea what that fan is supposed to be doing. It doesn't even look like there is a hole in the bottom of the box.

I don't know about Electrohome specifically, but CRT tubes were basically commodities. The neckboard connectors weren't completely standardized, but they were close to standardized because of mass production of CRT televisions. So, it wasn't at all uncommon for them to come from different suppliers over time, even when they were new.

With regard to replacing the monitor... one way to think about it is that by buying a drop in replacement, you get rid of the isolation transformer (which is going to cost you around $30 at least), and you dramatically reduce how much electricity the thing draws, which is costing you something as well. You can sometimes pick them up on ebay pretty cheaply when someone is parting out a machine they had in an arcade or mall or whatever. If you're good at wood working, you can even remove the flat screen from an old VGA monitor (you'll need a CGA/EGA -> VGA scaler board like this) and mount it yourself even cheaper. They're practically throwing away old VGA flat screen monitors. You can pick them up at Good Will for $10.

Generally you don't need to replace crap like this. Instead, you replace the entire power supply system with one of these. So you end up with a set of DC voltages that are already rectified (probably a lot better than that old mess).

Something like this may work: DOYO Arcade Game Machine, Rechargeable Classic Retro Video Game Player, 10.1 Inch LCD Display Collectible, Micro USB Powered, Android-Based Simulator DIY Platform https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07WSWFJ1D/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apan_glt_fabc_YGKG9MDJ1BFHHXAAVCR9

But I can't seem to find a games list for it

Are you building a cabinet around it, or how is the controller setup? If you're installing it in a room that can be made pretty dark at any time of the day that you might want to play, I might offer an additional suggestion on top of what others here have already said: a projector. Projectors are pretty cheap on Amazon and a decent one can be had for probably the same or less than a 55" TV. I have this one and it's excellent, although I don't use it for arcade gaming: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08KZC4W8K

If you planned on building a cabinet, like someone else suggested, I would also say do a pedestal, whether you go with a TV or projector. This way you can be as close or as far away as you want. And the added benefit of a projector along with that is that you can make the screen basically any size you want as well.

This is indeed a McDonalds game unit, not something custom. There's actually one for sale local to me that was set up for PlayStation 2: https://offerup.com/item/detail/858413170/ Looks like there may be a manufacturer logo above the screen but the photo makes it hard to read.

Brand name is Mcbazel, I believe it’s a knockoff of the gbs-8200

Mcbazel Arcade Game RGB/CGA/EGA to VGA HD Game Video Output Converter Board for Arcade Game Monitor to CRT LCD PDP Projector https://www.amazon.com/dp/B078ZDTLBJ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_YSRW0V6C0KGPG5DJHCZR?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

Unfortunately I don't have RCA ports available, do you think this would work?

UGREEN Active Micro HDMI to HDMI Converter, Micro HDMI to VGA Adapter, with 3.5mm Audio Jack and Micro USB Power Port for Hero 7, 6, Ultrabooks, Lenovo Yoga 3, Asus ZenBook UX30, Cameras, Black https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B01ALGJS32/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_i_GJXVG2ZT02WJZK8S1T7R

You could get at 3.5 mm to audio rca cable if the tv supports it.

https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-3-5mm-2-Male-Adapter-Stereo/dp/B01D5H8JW0/ref=sr_1_3?dchild=1&keywords=3.5+mm+to+rca&qid=1632127960&sr=8-3

You can also try to reflect more light from the inside of the cabinet. When I build bar tops, I put aluminum foil hvac tape (not to be confused with duct tape) on all sides of the entire marquee area.

https://www.amazon.com/Aluminum-Tape-Foil-Professional-Contractor-Grade/dp/B01FROBUXE

You should be able to use filler putty on the hole with few issues, just work slow and get a good sanding block with fine grit paper to clean up the patch.

Matching the finish could be a monumental task though. You might be able to match the underlying gray then stipple over that with black paint on a sponge.

That's how I'd try anyway, your mileage may vary.

Not pre-cut, but the 3M DI-NOC WG-430 Marine Teak Woodgrain is the closest thing to the original woodgrain. It's a bit on the pricey side, but it's pretty easy to install and the final results look great. I used this for a Ms Pac Man cocktail and it looked great, just take your time installing it.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0073KAGPO/

It's easier just to apply this and trim the edges. The T-molding will hide the edges, and if you had a pre-cut you have to be completely sure it was aligned properly, even the slightest bit off won't give proper coverage.

would something like this work?

i’ve seen people mount from the top but i don’t much care for that. you could also grind out the bottom of the wood a little.

Love this trackball. One of the best wireless I ever bought for arcade cabinet without need to drill the control panel. I can easily beat many levels in " Missile Command". Although, I have not setup the scroll ring yet.

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Wireless trackball

So if I might piggy back on your question and maybe turn it into a suggestion, on the use of a trackball, could you buy I think what they call a 3D Mouse, the ones with the big trackballs on the outside, and somehow rig that to work with the machine for the games that require the trackballs? I'm not entirely sure if the details in how that would work, as I'm new to the arcade cabinet scene, but I figured it couldn't hurt to recommend it and see what you would think for that. I used one through a PC of course but with MAME.

Edit: To specify be able to use the mouse efficiently and comfortably. Edit Again: Something like this https://www.amazon.com/Kensington-Expert-Wireless-Trackball-K72359WW/dp/B01936N73I/ref=zg_bs_172499_3?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=96BHRSX594XDWHF5NM8H

Let’s see.. build your own ? Got a Drill? A screwdriver? A few pieces of wood laying around ? Buy this and get to work ��

XCSOURCE Zero Delay Arcade Game USB Encoder PC Joystick DIY Kit for Mame Jamma & Other PC Fighting Games AC426 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01IQTN328/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_rrzdAb40T43A7

Alright I get it now, but I'm deciding not to hang this up on my wall because I'm going straight to college in less than a year (UC Riverside if they accept me, Calstate LA if they don't), and I'm gonna be living on-campus, where I doubt they'll let me make any holes in the walls.

I've decided on this vesa movable stand right here, which supports the weight of the display and supports vesa mounts up to 600x400. I measured the square of the vesa mounting holes on my display to be 317x215, so that vesa mount I linked should be compatible right?

I have used this on restores. Since you are working on new stock, two coats would work. Use an orbital sander 120, 220, and then 320 grit discs.

http://i.imgur.com/sSBAYrz.jpg

https://www.amazon.com/Rust-Oleum-249279-Automotive-11-Ounce-Filler/dp/B003CT4AM0/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1495341881&sr=8-2&keywords=high+fill+primer

At this point, my first step would be verifying that the monitor is processing signal correctly by attaching it to another signal source.

Next, I would check the power supply. You can either take the time to do it with a multi-meter, pin by pin, or you can drop the money for an ATX power tester.

If your monitor is good and your power supply is good, but you still can't get access to the bios screen, your CPU/Main board are probably the issue.

Non-mobile: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00565GU30/ref=pd_aw_sim_60_1?refRID=150PZE7JRDS361W17FSC

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