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The most popular Products mentioned in /r/arrma:
The most popular Services mentioned in /r/arrma:
The most popular reviews in /r/arrma:
I run these in my 6S EXB.
Zeee 11.1V 80C 3S 6000mAh Lipo Battery Hard Case Battery with EC5 Connector for RC 1/8 1/10 Scale Vehicles Car Trucks Boats(2 Pack) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08699DKRP/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_E6SQX2234EBXYMX8ZD7M?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I don’t have the link to the spoiler but here is the lights.
LED Light Strip for RC Fixed Wing Airplane Flying Wing Plane AR Wing Drone Model Car Truck (Blue) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B082DFX27R/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_86YWR8P6CT329BC4SMVJ?psc=1
Thank you! I’m fine tuning and working out the heating issues. These are strong and easy to clean when I get em dirty, but easy to singe if you’re not careful.
I use Zeee batteries from Amazon. They're cheap and great. I've had no issues so far.
Here's a pair of 2s packs for like 35 bucks
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B076Z778MJ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc_BMNR8M67TDD300S3WJ36
And here's a cheapo charger I've used in the past
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004FGWY54/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc_ZTW4P7XS8JF4ZSJ7XFDK
Also, just save up and get the 3s version and not the mega. You'll regret the mega in the long run
Hot Racing AON40M01 Aluminum Wing Mount Arrma Kraton Talion Typhon https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01NAPB2RO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_JT954XPXH4YW1A555H0S?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
These what you’re thinking? Do a lil research tho, I know some parts only work well with their counter parts... I don’t think you’ll need to change the shock tower or mod anything. I know you said you’re a lil new, have you check out the forums? Lotta great references... just hit that search. Also, you learn alot from other’s mistakes 😂
You should definitely get one, at the very least one of these cheap ones. It'll tell you the total voltage as well as each individual cell voltage so you know when the battery is discharged and if the cells are balanced.
I haven't dealt with that brand so I don't know the quality, maybe someone else can chime in about it. The battery checker will give you an idea of the health of the pack though, if one cell is way off from the others it's probably on it's way out.
Don't really need to worry anymore anything but needing to be modified when switching servos. Regardless of the brand. What you're going to want to find is a servo that has 180° sweep with 25 tooth spline for the servo horn and also something that is capable of putting out more than 15 kg at 6.4 volts if using stock electronics. I would suggest getting your replacement from Arma through there warranty program and and the interim getting a 25 kg servo from Amazon.https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07GJ6ZCVY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabc_TZa4FbTPJPDK5?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1 . It's a Chinese brand but from what I've read from others, reviews on youtube and my personal experience using the same servo in my notoriou I can vouch for the integrity of the servo. It is priced very friendly, has all metal gears. And same plug interface as stock . It's also a digital servo which I guess has benefits not necessarily for the vehicle type though. This servo has lasted much longer than a servo I paid $80 for and much longer than stock.
The discharge rate is based on a minimum, you're fine to exceed this rating.
I watched this video about a year ago and it definitely has some good advice. https://youtu.be/lQtKgiv70DQ
Biggest take-aways are : - Get a LiPo charger with balance and storage mode - ALWAYS balance charge - Store in a fireproof bag - Store at 3.8v per cell
This is the charger I use for single battery charging: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00466PKE0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabc_bOb2Fb6W3PKQQ
At the moment this is a very good price, it normally bounces around between 60-70$ on Amazon. I actually bought an extra as a spare.
I went with these once. They were meh. Have had worse, have also had better tho.
What about these?
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https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08696WZMK/ref=ox_sc_act_image_1?smid=A646DVGSXYMNH&psc=1
seem to be pretty popular among rcists
Ovonic 3s and Zee 6s we seems to have luck with. They seem to last much longer than the traxxis ones (husband is a traxxis nut...He is also always fixing his broken cars ) Also my brother uses Zee and is is PICKY so that says a lot for me. The link below is what I have in my limitless, infraction and felony and they have excellent burst IMO https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09CMK2KPQ?psc=1&linkCode=sl1&tag=quasimtiarocks-20&linkId=5de0d1a16833d9485079f651df213978&language=en\_US&ref\_=as\_li\_ss\_tl
2S on a brushless motor should be more than enough unless the people at your park have mutant dogs that can run over 40mph.
The charger quality is dramatically more important than the brand of the batteries in my personal opinion. I’ve seen people run the same Zeee LiPo for years, but if your charger sucks then you’ll run into all kinds of issues. Do not skimp on the charger.
I have this Spektrum smart charger and I love it. The display is neat and it gives you all kinds of stats about battery health. It costs $60.
These 5200mAh 2S Zeee batteries are $20 each or $39 for a two pack and will easily give you enough power to do what you need. Combine the batteries with the charger and you’ve got plenty of run time within your $100 budget. This is what I would go for personally.
You could have a single 2S Spektrum smart battery for $45. These have some neat features like smart charging and auto storage, but once in the truck they won’t really perform better than a y other batteries.
I bought this one for my Kraton 6S and used the existing servo arm. No issues.
My dad gave my 5 year old his burned up brushed Granite for me to revive after he upgraded to the brushed for himself. I put this combo in it and had to change nothing else. He’s running nimh batteries and it’s perfect for him. No issues yet and surprisingly fast on the nimh.
Spektrum Firma 85A Brushless... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08T5VCKY1?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
adapters work, heres a link for a adapter:
This adapter is to be used with a nimh battery which has a tamiya plug (nimh´s with tamiya plugs are always available and cheap to get) and then on the other end to plug into the car the ec5
I just got a Typhon Mega and Outcast 4S, and I've been really happy with these hardened hex drivers. I use them in the 1/4" socket of an electric screwdriver, or my Gerber Armbar pocket knife when I need fine control.
The trucks come with a combo wrenches that handle all the different types of nuts on the truck. They come with allen wrenches too, but the hardened wrenches are far superior.
Adjusting droop did nothing for me. I'm surprised no one here suggested the real and simple fix of just adding washers to your front shock shafts. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B092V26GQG/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
3-4 of the small washers on both front shock shafts will stop the dogbone from ever popping out again. I had the same problem on my talion and kraton. Removing the spacers on the arms as some suggest did nothing to fix it nor did messing with droop screws. I was super frustrated until someone told me about the washer trick.
says right in the description 'brushed'. 2 wires to the motor. Brushed is a DC motor, it's got a hot and a ground to it. The ESC provides more or less voltage to make it go faster, or flips the voltage around (puts the hot on the ground wire) to go backwards.
Brushless motors have three wires, and sometimes additional sensor wires. They work by frequency changes and black magic.
There's a whole lot more to learn, but that linked motor looks perfect for the Granite. I haven't blown my motor up since I put a fan on it, but I'm keeping that one in mind.
(I put https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07JLG9KCB?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details on my motor, and screwed https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09FXLKTXZ?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details onto the heatsink on the ESC, connected all the reds together and all the blacks together and hooked it up to the 'aux' port on the ESC. Works fine and makes me feel better if nothing else).
Voltage 101 for RC cars:
Brushless motors have a Kv rating and it means RPM per volt. So if the motor's Kv rating is 2000Kv and you pump it 10 volts, it will try to spin at 20,000 RPM. If you pump it 5 volts, it will try to spin at 10,000 RPM.
Lipo batteries have a cell rating. 2S, 3S, 4S, etc. All that really means is how many batteries are wrapped up together. A 4S battery has 4 lipo cells. Lipo cells are fully charged at 4.2V and depleted at 3.2V. (sidenote: make sure to read up on lipo safety).
Therefore, a fully-charged 4S battery will provide 16.8 volts (4.2 x 4). That motor mentioned above will try to spin at 33,600 RPM (16.8 x 2,000). But with a 3S battery it will spin at 25,200 (12.6 x 2,000). Gives you an idea how different batteries affect speed.
ESC connectors: you may have to solder connectors on ESC and battery to make sure they match. There are different types of connectors.
Brands for reliability: I'd recommend Savox for servos and Hobbywing or Castle for ESC/motor.
Radio: the DX3 is an acceptable RTR radio. Nothing special but works fine. It'd be convenient to just buy another receiver like you mentioned. Just note that going that route means you can't drive the two vehicles simultaneously. I have a separate radio on all my rigs for that reason. Here's a cheap but solid transmitter that is higher quality and has more settings than a DX3.
Powerhobby 729MbL all the way. You'll never need to replace it. Run it on my 6s EXB for 3 months with no issues. Set your voltage on the receiver to 7.4v instead of 6 in the ESC settings.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B083Y4QKZF?psc=1&ref=ppx\_yo2ov\_dt\_b\_product\_details
This one is plenty
ZOSKAY 35kg high Torque Coreless Motor servo Metal Gear Digital and Stainless Steel Gear servo arduino servo for Robotic DIY,RC car (Control Angle 180°) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07SBYZ4G5/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_5H0QKEP0RPESYY03MPZW?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
What truck do you have? Often times LED kits are generic and not made specifically for your model so the install requires a little creativity to make it work. Usually those kits aren’t switchable either, the moment you plug them in, they are on. If you want them to be switchable on a 3rd channel, you’ll need a relay between the light and the receiver because the LED itself cannot interpret a signal from your switch on the radio. That’s what the relay does. Here is one
Apex RC Products RC Remote Electronic AUX Channel On/Off Switch #9025 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07BKSGW3D/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_WK2FA6PN434YEH6GZKCB
I normally don’t condone buying on Amazon but I literally can’t find it anywhere else. With this device plugged in, any 3rd channel switch will act as an on/off for whatever you plug into it like an LED
That spektrum system is basically the same as what would come in the BLX model, so would work.
I have always been a fan of Hobbywing stuff. This setup is a little more money, but double the amperage in the ESC, so helps to reduce the cogging. 38010200 Max10 SCT ESC Combo with 3660SL 3200kV Sensorless Motor https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073DCT1X8/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_gl_i_VM8R5VPRHA2DGE6JK1WZ
The new slipper clutch assembly comes with a plastic nut on the backside. Shouldn’t need any locktite anymore.
I use a dust cover an it works really well. There is a night an day difference in my Big-rob versus my son Granet in the same field. This is the one I use. [dust cover](www.amazon.com/dp/B08QTLX7H6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_6DZTJR6RKTGXCMMNGHZC?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1)
I’d buy another stock motor (or something similar/cheaper) and just consider them to be a consumable part of the truck. They will go bad over time.
For example: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009PBZ618/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_62ST1BQATR7DJB9FHB14
Your LHS probably has some options as well.
I mean most people get by with the inexpensive red 20kg servo on Amazon. The top upgrade would be a savox servo. I recommend the inexpensive one and upgrade something else on your rig with the money saved. ANNIMOS 25kg RC Digital Servo Large Torque High Speed Full Metal Gear Waterproof 180 Degree Control Angle Red https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07GJ6ZCVY/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_SKWC1RRV7HTSP65M2NN4
I have an Infraction and yeah they get pretty hot when bashing but I haven't had any issues yet. I did recently put one of these fans on the ESC https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0999J4CTC/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_0NAV4V1FPNGWNX27FD70?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1 and it helps
Loosen the two screws holding the yoke together a turn or so. They can cause binding when tightened all the way. And sometimes even when not, which is why there are some aftermarket options available.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07MPZCTK2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_Z0X7EF2ZXXZTV5CBFNGM
It's this kit here: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0758DG2WN/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_RVNCD22AH8V9PQJTQ1WS
I've had the lights installed for a few weeks now and the lightbar hasn't snapped off. If I land on it, it just gets pushed down towards the windshield.
First thing invest in a simple screw extractor kit. These are life savers. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09359XT8F/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_i_CXT1VKW6MHHWYSW8D023?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
About 90% of the hex wrenches out there are undersized which is why this typically happens. ARRMA uses grade 10.9 and 12.9 screws so this shouldn't happen with a properly sized wrench. Yes the folks at ARRMA can get pretty liberal with the thread locker but they use the non permanent stuff. If you have a soldering iron you can use that to heat up the screw before removal if need be. I have this iron it works extremely well and get really hot really quickly. And when it comes to hex wrenches I've found that the Craftsman stuff Lowe's sells are accurate and well made if you need a decent quality set at a reasonable price. Their combo metric and SAE set is typically about 20 dollars.
https://jennysrc.com/products/arrma-kraton-6s-v5-blx-steering-set-bellcrank-servosaver-ara8608v5
And a cheap servo from Amazon
ANNIMOS 25kg RC Digital Servo Large Torque High Speed Full Metal Gear Waterproof 180 Degree Control Angle Red https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07GJ6ZCVY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_JRS4850SV00YST2ZZ2BV?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I know the method rc tires I bought didn't come glued so beware of that. Doesn't matter what brand I've ever bought at some point they all seem to come unglued somewhere. I've found this is one of the best CA glues to use. Starbond KBL-500 It works great being made with a rubber additive. There is an instant set accelerator spray available too but using it for tires I like that it doesn't set instantly, it usually takes about 5 minutes to set.
Yep use channel 3. You may also need some kind of relay like this:
RC Remote Controlled AUX on/Off Electronic Switch Relay for Car Truck Boat LED Light Drone (8A) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08FLVGTXQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_ABNXNWGJ7GNJ8SSRJQAT?psc=1
You are welcome, this stuff is insane for high speeds, high loads. The bearing doesn’t spin free forever anymore but…. I definitely feel a difference in downhill coasting on skateboard and bicycles.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002L5UL92/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_92H72WR8KS6DM702A7E5
ok i have a arrma senton mega and a 775 traxxas motor as well but i have the 3s aluminum motor mount and it fit for me.
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They are fine for the price. I also like Hoovo, like the Zee they are good for the price. These have a 20% coupon too and they are 120c rated for the same price. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09FJZK886/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_i_24XXJRVN49EA6N1H54QH?psc=1
It's a 10amp so max of 5amp per channel with a 6800mah battery you don't want to charge above 6.8amp. the htrc chargers can be hit or miss from reviews but I have this one https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07LF1SC63/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_i_05QCA8XGK7EEDFDEMQZE. Being a touch screen it's really easy to use. It's basically the same charger as above just with a touch screen. So far mine has been great, been using it for a couple of years now. Other then that I'd recommend this hitec. This has also been a good charger for me. Now as to regards to them being fast that is really dependent on the capacity size of the battery and how many amps you charge at. So for a 6800mah at 6.8 amp it should take about 30-40 minutes roughly. Honestly wouldn't go over 5amp personally and it should really only take about an hour.
I’d suggest buying these two items as a cheap replacement that’ll last longer than the stock one:
ARRMA Servo Saver Set 25T, ARAC8883 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07G3R5LQG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_ACT7GYHEGJ3HSJFXSMMC
ZOSKAY Servo High Torque Metal Gear Standard Digital Servo 25KG/0.13S 6.8V for 1/8 1/10 RC Cars(Control Angle 180) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07GLMDJQ7/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_6R3GXV4SW1W3CRVGH2KA
Would this work?
It's called Skyrc Gnss. It's the best in my opinion. Here's the link to it on Amazon SKYRC SK-500023 GNSS Performance Analyzer GSM020 GPS + GLONASS https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0849Y4CHF/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_i_AKZSC3B8BYZTJJRPTP96
I’m thinking this guy right here Castle Creations Mamba X Waterproof ESC/1406-2850Kv Sensored Brushless Motor Combo: 4mm Bullet, CSE010015510 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0734D3T76/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_FT0ZR916GCR2TX3475G8
Nah they dont affect anything at all. There's a couple different types of lipo checkers. One is small and has a couple visible batteries shrink wrapped. The other looks like a pager lol If you have the pager one, basically it tells you what each cell is at voltage wise by sorting through each cell by pushing the "cell" button. "TYPE" has to be set to Lipo. And "Mode" tells you a couple things like total voltage of all cells and highest/lowest difference between each cell. If you have a 3s batt for example and the checker only shows 2 cells, that means you've most likely dropped a cell and that battery is trash. The one im talking about is this one: Tenergy 5-in-1 Battery Meter, Intelligent Cell Meter Digital Battery Checker Battery Balancer for LiPo / LiFePO4 / Li-ion / NiCd / NiMH Battery Packs https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0178P8H9U/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_i_4XED9ADG6RS1E0HMQQCZ?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Whew, there is a lot in this post! :)
A couple things that stood out to me: - the Kraton 6S is about one of the best RCs out there. However, if you think you might want to race, the Talion or Typhon might be a better fit. To determine, you should look to see if there are any tracks near you and go visit.
charger: HTRC LiPo Charger Dual RC Charger 1-6S Balance Battery Discharger C240 AC150W DC240W 10A for Li-ion Life NiCd NiMH LiHV PB Smart Batteries https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0894DHCDK/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_HT60MZE0ANNVSC49BKFE
Lipo: it is much easier than your previous days. There are "better" packs out there, but don't stress it. Pick up some 6S packs with 80C+. Or, get two 3S packs to add to the 6S. FYI - if you will race, they most likely will limit you to 4S.
You are getting ahead of yourself with many of the other items. Upgrades, etc. You will be buying a great truck. Drive it, and ask those specific questions as things break.
First thing I did with my Mojave was just like you, except without the snow. For me, it was grass. I took the shell off and I had my very own safari below that. Possibly more grass than was left in the field. First 2 things I bought were a fan and scorched parts fenders. They're a must-buy.
This is what you want.
Moores Ideal Products 9502 Metric Hex Wrench Set https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00D7DK0NY/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_CHMRMP2CSTAMZVPDC8M8
They are more $$$, but will last you longer and you will strip less screws out. Promise!
Check this video out:
This guy put some Dboots 4s Backflip tires on his Talion and it seems to jump much better than with stock tires.
I actually ordered a set from local hobby store but haven’t installed them on my Talion EXB.
Here’s a link for them on amazon:
ARRMA Backflip Lp 4S 3.8 Rc Truck Tires with Foam Inserts, Mounted On Multi-Spoke Black Wheels (Set of 2): AR550050 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07HZ5XY6M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_3CWWFQF4092AT2EQJGER
Youll need something like this or this exactly to run that fan
5 Pcs JR/Futaba Style Servo 1 to 2 Y Harness Leads Splitter Cable Male to Female Extension Lead Wire for RC Models Airplane 7cm https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07PHDYZXN/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_QT851CMAQVCV97PA5E95
As far as the power button, i would just 3m tape it to the top of the servo 👍
If you wanna go brushless, Hobbywing Max 10 SCT is a really solid choice. Must be the SCT version the standard max 10 isn't big enough. The 4000kv would be plenty fast maybe not enough torque. The 3200kv is probably a better choice given the Typhon is slightly bigger then most short coarse trucks. 3200kv
And if replacing the 550 12t, just pick one. They are so cheap on Amazon it honestly doesn't matter plus there all going to crap out pretty quickly.
HobbyPark Aluminum Heat Sink with 5V Cooling Fan fit 540 550 3650 Size Brushless Engine Motor Heatsink for 1/10 RC Car Truck Buggy Crawler (Black) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08962C5BM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_3DKPZ4R0DXJEWPX1NDXA?psc=1
Just make sure it isn't TOO tight and check the bearings/lube them from time to time. I use this for all my bearings Liberty Oil, 4oz Bottle of The Best 100% Synthetic Oil for Lubricating Skate Board and Roller Blade Wheel Bearings https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CVZO8NC/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_JSSW2YSCGKRNEA46JP0C
So depending on the proline tire set you get they have removable hexes in them. Meaning that the tire / rim can fit on a 12 mm, 14 mm, 17mm, or other combination.
You'll need to get..... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07Q6KMCGN/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_WHXPC2WS0HQ41TCXNFWA the tire.
And then also the replacement removable hex https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07WCD5BCY/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_8TR2AWC4DFBZD5PHS06B
Notice the 6x30 that is listed. They do make slightly different sizes. The six in that refers to the six bolts you need to swap out the hub. I'm guessing the 30 is like the diameter of the hub or some shit.
And to be clear, all this replacement happens on the rim. Not your car. Your car is fine with 14mm hexes if you do a little intensive shopping.
DS3235 35KG 270 Degree Coreless Digital RC Motor Servo, Miuezuth Stainless Steel & Aluminum Metal Gear – High Speed High Efficiency High Torque Waterproof Servo for Baja Cars RC Robot https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07VKP9S9K/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_SHY5PY9VWKYTH7C299MD
Often times Arrma’s servo saver used on these RCs will fail, so pick up a fresh on of those. You can get one of Amazon’s 25kg servos for cheap.
ARRMA Servo Saver Set 25T, ARAC8883 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07G3R5LQG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_5CA7HS345YCSH8TMMFEV
MakerHawk 25KG Digital Servo High Torque, Full Metal Gear 2Pcs Waterproof with 25T Servo Horn for 1/8 1/10 RC Car Crawler Robot Control Angle 270° https://www.amazon.com/dp/B099X3JWY4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_A8G11CCB3E876EJKBDHQ?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
a traxxas 3500 motor, but i soon plan on putting this in
These are pretty nice charges and will charge any kind of rc battery. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075MFD6H3/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc_4AYK0XRSSBV1AB82NTG2
And this is essentially the same charger branded for horizon hobby https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07MR7K1TN/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc_24YVMCZQAW578HBFGM9E
For the 14 dollars more I'd just get the HITECH. I bought the dynamite passport awhile back but only because I got it significantly cheaper then.
Batteries are harder... Even the best of brands will get a dud especially with lipos. But I've had good luck with hoovo and zee for cheap lipos.
That wasn’t very helpful. Are these the tires?
Rowiz Gray 1/8 Scale RC Off Road Buggy Snow Sand Paddle Tires Tyre Wheel HSP HPI Baja https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01H00PNZO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_K28YG0AJYX054F9ZKYMY?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I don’t know if these are the right size, but this is basically what I mean. A rubber ring strapped around the wheel.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07HGCSMLQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_Q6NBGV6ZCMV46VDD3VV7
This might help: https://youtu.be/60epITAGZlw
Morning. Thanks so much for this post. I’m really glad I asked about this combo. I was actually pretty sure it would work but I’m glad I checked.
So would this motor mostly be more powerful than mine or would it be any faster?
I want to leave the option open to try 3S someday so it looks like I might just be better off sticking with what I have and just not use that ARRMA heat sink and fan I got. I’ll just need to find something that fits my motor.
There is a 100A Firma ESC actually but it uses IC5 connections. Everything I have, my charger, my batteries, and the LiPo that arrived yesterday are all IC3. I’d hate to fool with adapters and all that. I was trying to make use of the “extra” part I got when I bought the motor mount but it may be better to take the loss on the fan and heat sink I got.
You mentioned just a heat sink would be enough. What about the BLX motor mount and the metal red piece it has. That will help with heat a little, correct?
Would a fan only like this Dynamite Motor Cooling Fan with Housing: 1/8, DYNS7751 https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00LMITO4C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_SVBZ260VKX87DFM5QNT6?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1 do me much good?
Back to the motor and ESC for a moment. The combo I’m asking about wouldn’t be good for 3S but my current combo would be fine with it. Is that simply due to the combo being better paired?
I appreciate the suggestion on the motor and ESC, those are nice. But I do want to make use of the Spektrum stuff. I actually have a DX3 receiver on the way so I’m going to be able to benefit from the Spektrum ESC data.
Have a good one.
The original brushed motor burnt out so we put in a cheap Chinese combo which works pretty well all things considered. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B086JP6R48/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc_NT22B0HCMNF3BHH1JVKB
I use silicone spray from the WD-40 brand with the straw thing.
You can get sets of bearings for particular cars. Find an Arrma 3S rubber sealed bearing kit like the one I got: https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B07RVDR28Y
I have 45wt, 50wt, and 60wt shock oil from Losi. I like 50wt for the Typhon 3S, or heavier oil for jumping. You’re going to need some eventually to rebuild the shocks, so maybe get some now with a viscosity around 700cSt.
Well you had mentioned some slight rubbing on yours so I wanted to ask. Figured if I spend all the money to upgrade to 0.8, what's a little more money.
But isn't that incomplete? That just looks like the back plate that screws on. I haven't looked at all into 3rd party parts. What do you like about the Hot Racing one?
Doesn’t this hobbywing card work with Spektrum ESCs? I think I’ve seen people use it for BLX 100s… the options don’t line up with what’s printed on it, so you’ve got to use the chart in the manual, but it will change the settings.
$40 3300kv Chinese setup from Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B086JP6R48?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Went with this to try and keep it about the same as stock but more reliable. The original brushed motor burnt up and its for my 6 year old.
I bought this one on recommendation probably from the Arrma forums after the stock one died almost immediately. Been a couple of weeks now and so far so good. I bought a $100 brand name one as well, but haven't needed it yet!
Note you'll need a 25t servo saver or heat up the stock one and force it on (that's what I did).
Here you go you can just order these connectors and you will be good to go.
OliRC 4pcs EC5 to T-Plug Deans Style Male Female RC Connector Adapter(C82-4) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07X8MX7NT/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_N4RXSNSZA952BGR59TJQ
This makes more sense now:
Raidenracing Chassis Dirt Dust Resist Guard Cover for 1/8 Arrma Outcast BLX Monster Truck https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07815G6KS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_SD9B7YCPPJ2TV1GJ9TWY?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I used this kit at first for a few months and its worked out great! https://www.amazon.com/dp/B083734NF5/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc_W0YED7BGYQKV7SQRB5T4
Has everything you need! You also have 1.5mm screws on the motor which you should be accessing to switch out the stock bearings for rubber shielded 👍
Agree. Cheaper on Amazon.
Hobby-Ace 4pcs Hex Screw driver Tools Kit Set for RC Helicopter (1.5mm 2.0mm 2.5mm 3.0mm) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B014ERIFU6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_KVZ13WWKT6ZZB7ZFFP2N?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I got this one from Amazon. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07TTZX5TC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabc_D6K33B1EYD6NQ6ZB905X?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1 I just plugged it into the bind port since channel 3 was being used by fans.
Not very practical and not very good quality, but they look damn good. They put the suspension at max height, and I have to use the stock spring on the front pair since those are a lot beefier than stock. Also need to be filled with oil. I’ll dig up a YouTube video of a kid that tuned his shocks just right. See links below.
BQLZR Green SLA034 Aluminum Alloy Front Shock Absorber Upgrade Sets for TRAXXAS Slash 4X4 RC1:10 Rally Car Pack of 2 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07M61LJTM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_RQKX3NTHPN21NG8VJRNB?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
For that price range, I've had a lot of luck with
Hobbypark Aluminum Front Steering Block Knuckles & C-Hubs Caster Blocks & Rear Hubs for Arrma 1/10 Granite 4X4,Typhon, Big Rock, Senton, Replace AR330442 AR330467 AR330469 (Red) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08LDQLQZ6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glc_fabc_cd8YFbR8F2721?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
From amazon, pretty sure local hobby shops might have them. I went with rubber seals insteal of metal. 5x13x4mm Precision Ball Bearings ABEC 3 Rubber Seals (10) 695-2RS-BU https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ZVF8J3O/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_723FDb3P3PMPW
And I guess that 2 of these would be good then ?