Auxiliary Gas Fuel Tank https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004NV42PQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_gD3QDbCDVGF4Q
Edit,
For many years my test tank at home for carb work was just a 1qt gear oil bottle upside down, with a coat hanger punched through the sides to make a hanging loop, a hole cut in the bottom of the bottle(now the top) to fill and a clear fuel line pushed onto the gear oil spout.
Hey check it out, here is one of the project's guys showing off his thesis project waterjet on Hackaday last year.
The head is fed by a hose, so it can't be more than 10k psi. You can see it on the thesis machine and in the video of the new machine here
There's a book out there that I "managed to get hold of" along with a load of other motorcycle books called Motorcycle Chassis Design. The rest of the books were laughably dry, and really only meant as textbooks for mec. eng. students, but that book is fantastic.
Get yourself a copy, on the high seas or from a bookshop - you'll be glued and it will answer your questions about forks and more. Happy building!
This has a permanent spot on my workbench. Incredible JIS screw driver with the impact function built in. Vessel Megadora 980 Impacta P2x100 #2 Cross Point Impact Screwdriver https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003BI8HHQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_BY1GT8W22V7N7FZSNNV3
It's this one here. There's a lot of cheap parts from China on this bike. Wish this one had an oil pressure light but the four-light version cost three times as much and I'm a skinflint.
This is the unit I ordered. I plugged it in to see how it looked and it's certainly bright. It's very solidly built and the materials seem of a decent quality for AliExpress. I'm a ways away from having it on the road, but if I think of it once the bike's streetworthy I'll post some further comments.
Naysayers... this is "bike builders." Design is all about trying concepts out. Choppers and bobbers aren't "practical."
Find a copy of Tony Foal's book Motorcycle Chassis Design, and start reading. He also has a website with some free info.
Tc bros has a nice set of 8" rise fit $50 on Amazon.
Check the width as well. You want your hands to be around shoulder width apart.
Sit on the bike and hold your hand in a comfortable spot. Have some one else measure the distance straight up from the handlebar mount to your hands (rise) and how far straight back (pull). Combine that with how far apart your hands are (width) and you are good to go. Use those measurements to find handlebars that fit you. Ebay, Amazon, bike bandit, salvage companies are all good places to look.
As you build the exhaust, get a fuel/air ratio gauge and weld in the bung for a Bosch O2 sensor. This will turn you into a jetting Jedi. You won't be able to run the gauge all the time unless you do something creative with the excess wire (car length) that you cannot shorten without ruining the calibration.
You basically do a duct tape install for tuning, box it back up otherwise and screw in a bolt to seal the sensor bung.
By no means am I an expert so I can't say if your jets & pods are acceptable but I went through this with an 81 cb750f a couple years ago. My understanding is that bench syncing is kinda a misnomer and only gets them in the ballpark area. You need vacuum to properly sync them to your engine.
I tried to half ass it for a while but I was just driving myself crazy. I bought this kit and adjustment tool, popped the fuel tank off, ran a fuel line to a soda bottle of fuel and synced them properly in 10 mins. Night and day difference.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00T80OR52/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001DDH2ZY/ref=ppx_od_dt_b_asin_title_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
If I recall correctly, there's a small screw on each carb that comes off and you'll thread on one of the long tubes from the kit then attach the vacuum lines to the gauges. There's plenty of videos showing how to do it. It seems like a daunting task but when you have the correct tools it's actually not that bad.
Amazon is definitely hit and miss. I’ve had this one for a few years now on my 83 Goldwing. I highly recommend it. Some guys at Sturgis we’re wondering how I got a daymaker on my Honda...lol
I use sunpie , ive had it a few months and it works really well. Guys over on the harley sub love it. Also it was less than $60
I personally really like the LED headlights with the halo blinkers in the same assembly.
Like this one https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MS8NK62/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
This book taught me a lot: https://www.amazon.com/Motorcycle-Basics-Techbook-Editors-Manuals/dp/0857339982/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1527544626&sr=8-2&keywords=motorcycles+haynes
I'm in the same boat. I didn't grow up around this stuff so I had no idea. What I like about this book is it covers things that a lot of people who grew up in the culture seem to forget to explain because it's almost second nature for them. I remember things a lot better when I learn the "whys" and this book does just that. Also, the hard part about going straight into youtube or something is there's almost too much information. I find it great for specifics because it narrows your options, but for something like "general motorcycle maintenance" it's hard to distill the information you need down and separate the good from the bad.
You'll still need a service manual for your bike but this book will teach you what each part does and how it works, then you can take the knowledge you learn from it and apply it to the service manual.
Search ebay/ amazon? I bought a taillight that has integrated turn signals for 20 bucks.. DOT approved and works well. Another option is to look for salvage yards and repurpose something to fit your need. Here's what i bought: https://www.amazon.com/Krator-Taillights-Integrated-Indicators-Motorcycle/dp/B0052O8DCG/ref=sr_1_34?s=automotive&srs=8161042011&ie=UTF8&qid=1492878657&sr=1-34
Krator also manufactures other MC parts that are fairly inexpensive and might suit your needs.
Thanks for the suggestions. Is there some minimum standard of spline drive sockets I should look at, or would something from Harbor Freight, or something like this be fine?
I also may see if I can rent/borrow a 1/2 impact wrench first...
You could always pick up a hand impact driver like this.
Also you could try trying to turn both directions. Sometimes all you need to do is get it moving.
Also you could use a propane torch to heat the bolt, and give it a few heat cycles.
I don't think it is the same, except in general appearance. Actual Parkerizing seems much better than the stuff I used.
How did you get the handlebar treatment done?
I built mine with 2x4 for the frame and 1/2 plywood. I also recommend getting some of these, makes moving the bench around the garage super easy
Woodtek 163703, Hardware, Casters And Glides, Furniture & Cabinet, Workbench Stepdown Caster Set, 4 Each https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009ZDDLVI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_hCq7xbG330E70
You really need a service manual (unless you have an awful lot of experience ..you don't seem to ) Here's a link to a google docs download although if you're going to keep it I really recommend buying a physical copy ( just easier to use )
Google docs https://docs.google.com/document/d/1FTEOJGj-IVBX3vjZCenO6su2x6sZberepe0CtUMc3W0/mobilebasic
Amazon link https://www.amazon.com/Clymer-M502-3-Repair-Manual/dp/B000GZX312
you sure it's 6 inches? Are there any part numbers on the light assembly you're trying to replace?
I second this. I don't think Viragos are "awful," quite, though they have poor brakes and terrible starters (the early ones, at least). But parts are hard to find, and you may also be hard-pressed to find a shop to help you work on it if you get into a bind. You can find better bikes to learn on -- for example, an old Honda CB. They're everywhere, easily modified, parts are all over eBay.
As for learning how, I agree that the best way is to learn by doing. Start with simple things like maintenance procedures -- cleaning the chain, checking tire pressure, replacing brake fluid. Then move on to simple mechanical systems like rebuilding the petcocks. Move up to the carbs -- take them off, disassemble them, and reassemble them, then tune them. A good shop manual will walk you through all of these things step-by-step, and Google and YouTube are your friends. Build on what you've learned, and eventually you'll be able to do it all (with the possible exception of welding or fabrication; unless you're willing to make a sizable investment in time and equipment, you're always going to have to pay someone to do that kind of thing for you).
Learn how to be patient, because you're going to fuck up a lot. And if you're anything like me, I mean a lot.
Ohhhh yes, someone leaned against the bike or let a strap hang down.
Go for a quick 5-minute ride, put a piece of cardboard behind the pipes to prevent overspray, and hit it with a light coat of this fume-free oven cleaner. Grab some wet paper towels layered up thick, so you don't burn your hand, and it should wipe right off.
Don't get it on your paint, or you'll be a sad panda with faded paint spots. If it drips on chrome, doesn't matter.
If the black mark doesn't wipe off immediately, have more damp paper towels, spray the oven cleaner directly on the towels if you like, and wipe wipe wipe. Don't scratch, no firmer than a good rub. Smooth motion in one direction if you can.
First couple of times I had to clean off various females high-heels melted onto my pipes, this did the trick over and over, so great. Then I put passenger floorboards on, and my now-girlfriend already knew to keep her feet away from the hot melty stuff.
What's your view on using one of these or something like it to check what the fuel/air ratio is actually doing?
This is a wideband O2 sensor plugged into the exhaust and a continuous digital readout of your air/fuel ratio. You want 14.7:1 most of the time, 12.8:1 balls-out-wide-open. This thing is supposed to tell you THE TRUTH[tm] about what your lean/rich condition really is and should make tuning issues like this involve less guesswork, more science.
You also have to pay a local muffler shop a little bit to drill a hole in your exhaust pipe at least 18" from the heads (just ahead of the muffler is fine) and weld in a bung for the sensor. If you pull the sensor after tuning just fill the bung with a short bolt.
These things haven't shown up much in bike tuning but they're making big inroads in performance cars. Innovate is kind of a cheaper alternative to AEM, the market leaders in these critters.