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The most popular Products mentioned in /r/c64:
The most popular Services mentioned in /r/c64:
VICE
Gamebase 64
Internet Archive
SourceForge
itch.io
PostImage.org
MobyGames
Oolite
POV-Ray
Discourse
SD Card Formatter
AmigaOS 3.1
MY ABANDONWARE
Retropie
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Reminds me of the Amiga that was reported a couple of years ago to be running a school systems HVAC system since the late 80s. http://hackaday.com/2015/07/23/this-little-amiga-still-runs-school-districts-hvac/
I recently got a Hyperkin Trooper joystick through Amazon.
I've been using it for around six months, and it's really very good.
It has a standard 9-pin Atari/C64/Spectrum/Amstrad plug, so you can use it on any retro hardware.
hyperkin trooper joystick on amazon
I recommend starting at the same place most Commodore 64 users started, Compute Gazette magazine. Every issue has at least a few things to type in, most were very good. The best part is each program used a checksum system to help against typos.
Edit: Oh, and check out Ahoy magazine as well. It was similar to Gazette and also included a ton of great programs as well as articles on learning BASIC asn assembly.
Answer: Max Chatsworth
Fun fact:
I'm listed as the programmer for Blue Max 2001 on Wikipedia, Gamebase and Mobygames, but I never worked on it at all. I've tried to get it corrected but nobody responded to my attempts. The only thing I can think of why i'm listed is that I wrote a 6502 macro assembler for the C64 that a few game companies used back then and I might be on a few credits as "special thanks" for something but I never directly worked on it.
No, install Vice on a nearby computer. It's multi-platform, so if you have an OS made in the past 10 years Vice supports it.
Then drop to the terminal (or powershell, or command line) depending upon your choice of an OS. Then, from a directory you have easy access to, such as your Desktop or Documents folder, do this:
$ c1541 c1541 #8> format "your disk,01" d64 savegame.d64 c1541 #8> quit
You'll now have a d64 disk image called savegame.d64. Now, you'll need to create an autoswap.lst file. Just use a handy text editor like Notepad or Vi. You want the autoswap file to look like so:
gamedisk1.d64 dungeondisk1.d64 dungeondisk2.d64 dungeondisk3.d64 savegame.d64
Obviously, your exact autoswap.list will look different, but that should give you a very good feel for how it should look.
All you're doing is changing a value in memory. Some areas of memory are reserved for things like screen colours, the screen character map, sounds registers, etc as you've found.
You could write an entire program poking values sequentially (which is what a lot of magazine listings did with dozens of DATA statements).
If you can, grab a copy of the Commodore 64 Programmers Reference Guide, which was a bit of a Bible back in the 80's. Lots of cool stuff to read up on and sample listings to try: https://www.amazon.com.au/Commodore-64-Programmers-Reference-Guide/dp/0672220563 (but not from this link, the price is a rip-off).
The first way would be to put it on a cassette tape connected to a C64, and have the C64 load it.
But if you don't have a C64 and tape machine handy... save it as a WAV audio file and use something like WAV-PRG to convert it into a C64 .tap file. Then load the .tap using a C64 emulator like VICE. Someone here might be nice enough to do it for you (I'm on mobile so can't!) Let us know how you get on!
Thanks for sharing!
Posting the YouTube description below since it adds some interesting points:
> A slightly altered approximation of the Ray Manta set played in March 2017 for Squaresounds Festival in Melbourne, Australia. > > A mixture of 2SID and 3SID Commodore 64 songs that will eventually be released on the Ray Manta album on DataDoor. > > Gear used: > > - 3 SID chip (MOS8580) modified Commodore 64 running SID Wizard tracker (3 sid version) - https://sourceforge.net/projects/sid-... > - 2 SID modified Commodore 64 (1x 8580 and 1x 6581) running Prophet64 cartridge synched to a Korg Electribe ER-1 > - Strymon Blue Sky reverb pedal > > All graphics are using customised Commodore64 character sets - using a custom editor by Jaaaames - http://level3.jojati.com/
Nah, it's Nexus. Sten gun, grenades, you had to collect parts of a puzzle (names of spies, General Alfredo was the first given).
Edit: another link
The track name is Aggressor Theme, and it's by Martin Walker - as far as I can remember, it's pretty much used in a game called Revolution.
Ok... That vaguely sounds like one of the levels of Raid Over Moscow...
Pics of the level I'm thinking about: http://www.gb64.com/oldsite/gameofweek/top64/Raid_Over_Moscow_2.gif
Make sure you have a TV with a cable tv input (all of the them do now)
Order this from Amazon ($8):
https://www.amazon.com/RFAdapter-Connector-Convertor-Commodore-Colecovision/dp/B07VWQF6WS/
Connect that black cable on the left in your picture to the C64 RF out (its next to a switch on the rear). Connect the other end to that connector you got from amazon. Tune the TV to channel 3. Turn on the computer. If its still not showing, turn the TV to channel 4.
EDIT: This is assuming you live in the U.S.
Well, Disk caddies were the go to back in the day. However they were not a "shelf" solution, other than putting the caddies on a shelf.
My honest best advice is to accept that floppies have a life-span, and we are nearing the end, more or less. I suggest you focus on a better long-term approach:
Download or make copies of your existing floppies so you always have a digital copy. There are a number of solutions for archiving C64 floppies, but I would recommend you just see if you can download them as that is usually much faster. Otherwise look at something like a KryoFlux or ZoomFloppy if you want to use the native 1541 drive to make the disk images.
Get yourself a floppy emulator device such as an SD2IEC so you can work with just the digital disk images, this will prevent wear-and-tear on the floppies as well as the drives.
Any existing home-made floppies should get used without concern as you can just make new disks from image files. Any retail, professionally labelled floppies, are worth keeping and protecting. Start archiving them by getting backups and taking a photo of the disk label. Then take them all and store them in a safe place in a sturdy box and don't use them. You want them to last as long as possible.
Otherwise, if you really want a shelf solution and don't care about taking care of them, look for an adjustable shelf. There are a number of adjustable CD shelves available on Amazon, however they tend to be large media shelves, which would contain all your CDs, DVD, VHS, etc... The shelves have pins which allow you to adjust the height, including smaller shelves for floppies. If you look hard enough you might find a smaller adjustable shelf which suits your needs.
Consider, also, building your own shelf. A couple of 4-inch long boxes, such as these should be good to stack and put the floppies inside. Just look for 4-inch boxes.
Awesome game! Thanks for the video. :)
This game was a type-in from Compute Gazette, December 1988. There is also a type-in for a maze editor. You can get the magazine(Issue #66) here. Or download the game here. Enjoy!!
I cannot find the ROM anywhere, or anyone but the guy from eBay to confirm the game actually exists. Just people looking for it. Stuff like this is why I believe the Sinbad Movie is a thing.
But I did find this -- the programmer did a lot of work for Addison-Wesley on unique strategy games of the kind I most wish existed -- rather than just straight war/econ games. For example, Military Coup. And...this, a type-in for Century Communications on the same theme as Front Page. This ROM should work on your emulator!
Yes, VICE at http://vice-emu.sourceforge.net/ is an excellent emulator.
Not only do you get a Commodore 64 emulator, but you get the C128, VIC20, PLUS4, as well as, the old PET emulators.
The VICE team have done an excellent job to be as accurate to the actual machine as possible.
Best option (and pretty much the only option) on the Mac these days is VICE. It's not the best UI out there, but it works pretty darn well.
Best part, with using a gamepad, you can bind two buttons (which'll be perfect for playing any of the C64GS compatible car games), and even set auto fire.
The absolute easiest emulator for Windows is hands down C64 Forever. You can grab the free version at https://www.c64forever.com
They also makes a great, and easy to use, Amiga emulator. https://www.amigaforever.com/
A SID file contains a machine language music player and its music data. Goat Tracker used to be the standard cross-platform tracker, not sure if there are other options: https://sourceforge.net/projects/goattracker2/
Hyperkin also do a "Ranger" joypad that will similarly plug in to retro hardware, though I haven't tried it.
Note: There are a ton of Atari 2600 clone joysticks out there. On the outside they look just the same. I got one, and the internals are just fragile. It broke within a week. So be wary of those. atari clone joystick on amazon
Cut the pins at the right angle. Desolder them individually by heating from the back and pulling from the front with needle-nose pliers. Use the desolder wick to clean up the holes. Install a socket and install a GAL->PLA replacement.
It's powered off mini usb and it's not an original or modified C64 it's a new reproduction with a custom emulator and 64 games built in, here's the exact product
Yes, there is a difference between PAL and NTSC SVideo. Older monitors, especially CRTs, are less likely to support both (though at least some of Commodore's CRTs were dual-sync). The 2001FP is an LCD, and so I suspect supporting PAL was no harder than supporting NTSC.
On a related note, another option might be to get an SVideo to HDMI converter. I haven't tested this, but I suspect that many of these devices will work with both PAL and NTSC SVideo. The reviews for this unit on Amazon suggest that it works with PAL or NTSC. Again, I haven't tested this, so buy at your own risk.
Will this fit on the SX-64 for the breadbin chips or is it too tall?
https://www.amazon.com/ENZOTECH-Memory-Ramsink-BMR-C1-Heatsink/dp/B002BWXW6E
or this:
Regarding the tapes, if you have an Android phone or tablet, https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=co.kica.tapdancer&hl=en_GB combined with http://www.amazon.com/RCA-AH600R-Car-Cassette-Adapter/dp/B000BUN79K/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1433262849&sr=8-2&keywords=cassette+to+3.5mm will get you a long way.
You can hook the UHF output to many modern TVs. Failing that, the video out port on the C64 can do composite video too.
Regarding the tapes, if you have an Android phone or tablet, https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=co.kica.tapdancer&hl=en_GB combined with http://www.amazon.com/RCA-AH600R-Car-Cassette-Adapter/dp/B000BUN79K/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1433262849&sr=8-2&keywords=cassette+to+3.5mm will get you a long way.
You can hook the UHF output to many modern TVs. Failing that, the video out port on the C64 can do composite video too.
If it was me, I would purchase a Canakit power supply. They give a solid power source to raspberry pi device. I think the c64 maxi uses a micro-usb which I believe 2.5A to be the most it can send. Most likely it only requires as much as the mini. Most likely any quality usb 2.4A brick would work but I personally have to Canakit power supplies and they are great.
Something like this https://www.amazon.com/CanaKit-Raspberry-Supply-Adapter-Listed/dp/B00MARDJZ4
I have a 3A usb-c one too that I sometimes put an adapter on for micro usb.
I use this and am quite happy with the picture quality.
Here are pictures.
It depends. I think the SID already has one in its metal housing.
Depending on the C64 model, it may have some heat sinks built into the RF shielding. All you need to do is maybe clean off and reapply the thermal paste.
If you don't have RF shielding (or you just have the "cardboard with some tin foil" type), it certainly won't hurt to put a heat sink on some of the chips. I think the PLA, 6510 and VIC are the main ones (I'm not an expert on this - I just powered up my C64 and waited a bit and put a heat sink on all that were hot where I could).
Heat sinks can be found on Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/Easycargo-Development-Transistor-Southbridge-Northbridge/dp/B078KB7V5J/ref=sr_1_3
There's no reason to try to convert the luma/chroma (s-video) to composite as the c64 already has a composite output.
The luna/chroma output is the cleanest you can get out of the c64 so if your monitor/tv has an s-video jack then pick up something like this: https://www.amazon.com/CGTime-S-Video-Splitter-Extension-Adapter/dp/B07K768YD1
Oh weird.
It was a pic of my C64 with these dots on the F & J keys so I can find the home row. Also put one on the escape key.
This is just a thought- I'm not an expert, so I'll have to ask the others on this board to weigh in. But there is the full size "The C64" which is an emulator, it's not an authentic commodore 64. Buuuuuut it seems like a good way to get to enjoy the authentic feel of a commodore 64 on a budget. I myself want to get one because authentic machines are very expensive in my area. Again, I don't know for sure, I'd suggest watching some YouTube reviews etc and see if it's what you want.
Actually, though they aren't the Original joysticks themselves, there is a great and very inexpensive USB joystick I have used with my C64 Maxi.
https://www.amazon.com/Hyperkin-Trooper-Premium-Joystick-Controller-Raspberry/dp/B08R23BTZ9
I owned an actual C64 from 1983 to 1991. In modern times I ran an emulator to play game ROMs, but when the C64 Maxi cam out I bought this Joystick and it made all the difference.
Know that you'll be able to play with a modern game pad, but when it comes to some games, you are just better off with a joystick that accurately looks and acts the way it would from a C64 back in the day.
Also, I will differentiate between the controller that comes with the C64 Maxi, and if you were to instead hook up something like an Xbox controller. The joystick that comes with the C64 Maxi is MUCH better than the kind of performance you would get with an Xbox controller. That being said, the joystick I've linked is a bit better still, and more importantly will last longer because it's better built.
So if your satisfied with what you already have, great, but know there is something else. And if what you has starts to degrade in performance, or stops working altogether, there is something else out there you can buy to replace it with.
I have heard some people complain that the joystick that comes with the Maxi does break down sooner than they's like. I can't attest to that personally, but I can say that the joystick I linked does have a bit better precision than the one that comes with the Maxi, and both are leagues ahead of a modern game pad for this particular device.
I've been using something similar for about nine years now and it's been working just fine for me on my C64 and 128. VGA/RCA Converter I have the C128 using the S-Video In for 40 column mode and RCA In for 80 column mode (aka the VCD). I just push the "mode" selector on the VGA converter box and I can switch between the two display modes. Really convenient.
It really depends on the heatsink. For the VIC-II, you need one made for a 40 pin DIP IC. Like this one:
https://cpc.farnell.com/fischer-elektronik/ick-40-b/heat-sink-dip-glue-on-46-c-w/dp/SC10787
Doesn't come with adhesive though, so you need to use a metal clip to hold it in place and the very thin, white heatsink compound.
This is the probe I use.. you can get them for $10 but I'm not sure how good those are. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000Z9HAP4/
What kind of meter(s) do you have? I would recommend Fluke meters, but they are not cheap. Lol
Thanks for your reply! Never heard of old white grease though that does seem like the grease that came with the original. Would it be something like this? https://www.amazon.com/Halnziye-HY400-Performance-Compound-Silicone/dp/B00XSXQN5W/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?crid=CEM4LIV4E7WF&keywords=thermal+grease&qid=1649013968&sprefix=thermal+greas%2Caps%2C350&sr=8-3
Original joysticks are of course not going to work without some sort of USB adapter, and even then YMMV as the TheC64 does not seem to play well with every USB device out there.
I got a second TheC64 transparent joystick (this one) and for some reason it feels better than the black one that came with my TheC64. I also saw a review of it on Youtube and that guy also agreed that the transparent one had a different feel.
Right. You'll need to desolder the caps lock to get the keyboard apart.
Also, the conductive pads on the key plungers will wear out over time. To refresh them, you'll need to paint them with stuff like this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0026PRMVM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I don't know if this will be helpful to you, but here is a search that I routinely do when I visit Itch.io: https://itch.io/search?q=c64
It's not perfect, but it does seem to snag most titles available on the site for the Commodore 64.
I like acme, it's my favorite assembler.
Use your favorite editor and write the following:
* = $801 ; this is a sample BASIC program required to start our code !byte $0c,$08,$0a,$00 !byte $9e ; sys !text "2068 :-)" !byte $00,$00,$00,$00
*=$0814
; our code starts here lda #$00 sta $d020 sta $d021 rts
Save it as "test.asm". Then compile with
acme -f cbm -o test.prg test.asm
If you haven't installed Vice C64 emulator yet, do it now. Then test your executeable with
x64 test.prg
The background and the border in your C64 should be black. And you are ready to continue.
I'm listening to it now. It doesn't do anything special (but then the SID isn't very complex). All it's doing is ring mod and filter to get it to distort. With sidplayfp, there's no reason that it wouldn't be identical to a real SID chip. The question is, on how many SID chips have you tried it and how many different sidplayfp filter co-efficients did you try? With different filter co-efficients, it can sound wildly different.
Download this, play the track, then go to "Settings->Emulation settings..." and choose the filter model. Each of these filter models have been taken from real SID chips.
A dead C64, with a replaced logic board for the Ultimate 64, is one of the best C64 solutions you can get.
I have one, and it is a dream to operate.
https://www.hackster.io/news/the-ultimate-64-is-a-commodore-64-clone-in-an-fpga-format-1906a3154c48
This is the one I am using for my C-64's and VIC-20's. It currently lists for $12.74 (USD). I have two of them (one on my workbench and another at a desk).
I am using typical Commodore style cables to connect to these. Here's an example of one of the ones I purchased from Amazon for my VIC-20 which currently lists for $19.99 (USD). You can likely get these cheaper from eBay or AliExpress but I didn't want to wait as long when I purchased this last one. :-)
It is, yes. The-Eye.EU is still down, but someone on my Discord found an alternate host of the torrent here. Just FYI though v0.45 should be out either this month or next at the latest.
Don't bother posting blurry phone photos of the Run magazines, they've already been scanned. As for the other mags and books, I suggest hooking up with DLH to get them imaged as well!
I have a pair of these and while a bit expensive, they're totally worth it and work with theC64 out of the box
Thank you, is this the adapter you had in mind?
And do you the cable I linked in my first message would be of any use considering it's only a 5 pin DIN connector? I'm not sure if that impacts the chroma/luma output, or if it could even be used in conjunction with the adapter.
Sorry for all the questions, new to the hobby and just want to get over the first couple of hurdles!
For starters, VICE is free, and if you really were to delve into 8-bit programming, you may want to learn a little bit about machine language, and with VICE, you could do step-level debugging. I guess you could sort of do that on the mini by loading something like a Snapshot cart image(?)
Transferring files around is much simpler in VICE too as you don't have to jumble around with a thumb drive and a joystick to mount a disk image.
But, not all is lost on the keyboard issue. Use a dedicated keyboard and get a set of those keyboard stickers and you should be good to go (https://smile.amazon.com/Commodore-Non-Transparent-Keyboard-Background-Notebook/dp/B00KMQLH68/ref=sr_1_2?crid=ERHVTSY2CPIK&keywords=commodore+keyboard+stickers&qid=1639412603&sprefix=commodore+key%2Caps%2C157&sr=8-2)
A clone's a little unfair - it's the sequel to Quazatron, which started life as the Spectrum port of Paradroid, but ended up being reworked into its own thing.
But that's not the Magnetron I'm talking about - the one I am talking about is an utterly different game. One which is a lot harder to find, and not talked about in general ;)
Probably not this game, but I thought I'd mention it because I enjoy it :P
Is there anything else you can tell us? Maybe the type of graphics? Was it mainly a certain color, like green? Was the car big or small? Any score panels on the screen? Would you have loaded it from cartridge, tape or disk? etc. Any information would be great :)
If you are looking for something pre-packaged you can try Cloanto's packages.
That saves you some of the hassles of finding ROMs and games. Depending on which package you buy, you can also get demos etc. Really good gateway for a beginner.
I hope that's the one. I only ran it through emulators but can confirm that at least the copy I have runs through VICE (http://vice-emu.sourceforge.net/). You could try that if you have access to a computer?
In BASIC or assembly?
For assembly, I'm pretty sure this is not too hard (the hard part is writing the assembly). I haven't done it, but I think you'd use cartconv to convert your assembled binary into a .crt.
I don't have an Easy Flash, but my understanding is that they only work with .crt files. I don't know of any way to convert BASIC into a .crt file.
If you have uIEC/SD, 1541 Utlimate, or other SD-to-floppy-or-tape-drive, you can use petcat to convert a text file into a tokenized BASIC prg file, which you can then load on the C64.
Both of these are shipped with vice. I strongly suggest starting with a very simple "hello world" and make sure you can get that transferred over and running first.
Didn't read the page very carefully, did you?
> This release marks the end of the legacy ports (native Amiga, BeOS/Haiku, OS/2, DOS, Xaw/Gnome2/Gnome3, Cocoa and Windows) ports, and we will be switching to SDL1/2 and *nix/Windows/OSX native GTK3 ports for all future releases.
If you do go that route be sure to do research and make sure it will work with the Pi. I bought two cheap adapters on Amazon for Genesis and NES and neither worked properly on the Pi. I myself just ordered a new one for Genesis and DB9 joysticks. It should arrive tomorrow, I'll let you know how it works.
There is also a thread on the Retropie forum about working adapters worth checking out.
Yeah it's not easy to be a fugitive, but with some practice it will get easier to avoid the cops and bounty hunters. The slowdown of the game during the intense battles can be of help. And at the very least those two planets will provide you good markets for computers, furs, food, etc.
If playing it on a C64 is top of the list for you, I applaud your dedication to keep it original. If not: download Oolite, a free implementation of Elite that gives you more modern graphics and speed but keeps the gameplay the same (or it can be tweaked as well).
Ach, have you formatted with the official tool? https://www.sdcard.org/downloads/formatter/
Keep in mind that I do not actually have an SD2IEC... or a Mac... -_-
So, it looks like you need to set up an autoswap.lst to use multiple disk programs, like you are trying to do. I know Mac and Linux will typically make text files that use a different line ending format from DOS and Windows. When you make the autoswap.lst, make sure you save it with Windows line endings.
Assuming you are following this guide, let us know where it goes awry.
Same. Amazingly, it still exists (and looks like they haven't updated the website since 1993.)
Blender is a much better solution these days.
​
Having looked at a lot of the low level clang code, it is striking how much of it is familiar to me from my early 2000s compiler class at RPI. My 16-year old cousin thinks it's such a mystery how SMS works, etc. but if you trace it from the hardware, the command/control channels of a mobile network, it's pretty simple.
I suppose modern computers are the same. Underneath it all, the hardware is the same as the old Vaxes at RPI.
>The Amiga years was promised, but its vaporware atm.
The Amiga Years was published in 2017. It's still on sale, e.g. Amazon.com - $26
The Final Years was released in 2019.
Brian is currently working on a 'prequel' - "Commodore: The Early Years" covering Jack Tramiel's move from repairing typewriters into calculators etc.
Can concur.
I bought these exact ones:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N48L71I/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Using them now. It's great.
I bought a cheap USB keyboard and then a set of C64 key cap stickers from Amazon, which works quite well for my purposes.
GRS USB Button Hole Spinners (https://www.amazon.com/GRS-USB-Button-Hole-Spinner/dp/B08HNB5933). I’m very happy with them, quality is great yet the price is much lower than the Ulrimarc or GroovyGameGear spinners. This guy sums it up pretty good: https://www.reddit.com/r/cade/comments/nuc6tk/grs_usb_button_hole_spinner_vs_ultimarc_spintrak/?utm_source=share&utm_medium=ios_app&utm_name=iossmf
“JB-Weld 8237 Plastic Weld” worked great for me. Also the color was a pretty close match for the case.
This is what I used: Amazon link
Composite video cables https://www.thefuturewas8bit.com/shop/commodore/c64-vic20-atari-composite-video-cable.html
Surprisingly, the power supplies are on Amazon.com https://www.amazon.com/C64-PSU-Modern-Black-Replacement/dp/B086Z1ZWF2/ref=asc_df_B086Z1ZWF2/
Another option might be to get an adapter that supports both VGA and audio out, such as this one. (I don't have personal experience with any of these adapters, let alone that one, it's just the first one that came up.)
https://www.amazon.com/HDMI-Converter-Adapter-Cable-1080p/dp/B01LW2W68G
TheC64 availability on Amazon has been goofy. According to the fb page of the company that makes it, the distributors are having issues getting them to Amazon.
I ordered one two weeks ago which had a delivery of April. It showed up 3 days later. Best ignore those delivery dates on Amazon and get one when they show up as available.
Real hardware gives you a more authentic experience, but it would require a storage and display solution. There are cheap SD card adapters and s-video cables to connect it to modern TVs.
All versions of the c64 maxi are the same. Its powered by USB so a standard USB power adapter should work correctly.
Also, its in stock right now Amazon (mar 17,2021 0936 EST)
https://www.amazon.com/C64-not-machine-specific/dp/B08GMTJYXJ/
Man I wish I still had my C64, disks and books. I especially miss the book Creating Arcade Games on the Commodore 64: https://www.amazon.com/Creating-Arcade-Games-Commodore-64/dp/0942386361
I noticed you're using the mini? I'm not sure where you're from but there's a decent replica of the Competition Pro on Amazon which is USB. https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07K9N36GG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabc_2W7YFbTG4E7DA
Ah, good old “10 PRINT”. The BASIC one-liner that inspired a whole book.
I enjoyed using keyword abbreviations to squeeze it onto a single VIC-20 screen line:
0?cH(205.5+rN(.));:gO
Ive got these on the SID:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B077VM8FJW
Two on the SID with double sided thermal tape kept it below 37C for over an hour of Cynthcart use. Three on the VIC didnt seem to be as effective, which is what prompted me to experiment with that old intel stock heat sink.
I went that route first actually. Picked up some really nice copper fin sinks deigned in Germany. They are teh sexy and I'm saving them for my blue sixty clone build, but I wanted to see how efficient they were first. They work, but they dont come close to how effective that one aluminum block is on the SID
The "zero delay USB" arcade controller adapters do work, and I wired one up to a 9-pin cable. You can also wire up some extra buttons for TheC64's menu button and other secondary buttons.
https://www.amazon.com/Quimat-Arcade-Encoder-Joystick-Fighting/dp/B06XD1WF8G/
Fine by me, thanks for all of your work on this!
BTW, here’s the silicone rubber kit I bought (it’s much more than needed):
If you want to connect to a modern TV via HDMI then purchase something like this for $38 on Amazon.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B078JCNDC8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
These from Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B071KHH4YS
I thought $30 for two of them was not too bad. The 'ALLSOP' labels easily peel right off, too.
Amazon also sells a cable that works: kenable 5 Pin Male Din Plug to 4 x RCA Phono Male Plugs Audio Cable 1.2m (~4 feet), and is cheaper than the ones I've seen on eBay. There's a review on that page that explains how to use it with a Commodore.
Note that if your TV has SVideo, you can get a better picture using an SVideo cable instead. Searching for "Commodore Svideo" on eBay will turn up a bunch of cables for this. This only works on C64s that have an 8-pin instead of 5-pin video port. (The majority have 8-pin, but if you have a an early breadbin you should check before buying a cable that might not work.)
Thanks. I'm looking on Amazon. Are these the ones? amazon.com/Logitech-940-000117-Gamepad-F710/dp/B0041RR0TW/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=Logitech+F710+usb+controller&qid=1579098774&sr=8-2
With the INNEXT there are just buttons? Do you use those instead of a joystick. I basically stopped being a gamer after my C64 and Intellivision, so I have zero Nintendo/Sega gaming experience. Thus I liked the old fashioned joystick. And the Logitech is a bit pricey.
I've had amazing luck with this one. It worked so well on my pi's that I bought more to charge all my stuff. They work great as fast chargers for my Samsung charging pads.
IBERLS（2-Pack） USB Micro Charger... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07JF56B59?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
It says it comes with one. But, if you need one I found a picture of one online. It's a standard 12v 2000ma (a.k.a. 2 amp) center positive wall wort. This looks like it should work fine. TBH, these things are all about the same quality. No mater what you pay, you are getting something most likely made in the same factory from the same parts.
It actually looks like it may be the same one they supply with the board.
There's a game I want to try that won't run on any of the VICE based emulators even on PC. The only one that does is CCS64 on PC or Mobile C64 on Android.
​
https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=de.joergjahnke.c64.android
How do you connect your 64's video/audio cables to the PVM?
Edit: Do you use an RCA composite to S-video (7-pin?) adapter? Something like this? https://www.amazon.com/Computer-Accessories-COMPOSITE-CLIENT-10PINCOMPOS/dp/B01HWH6OMG/
> Nice monitor stand.
I found this on Amazon and it works perfectly for these smaller CRTs. I might end up grabbing a few more for my other old school machines. The little tray for documentation is great. Additionally the little notch on the back of the Commodore 64c case slides under it perfectly, so when I'm done I can slide it back and it's a nice little snug fit.
Just ordered this adapter from Amazon and it's working out of the box with Debian Linux 9 and tvtime. Decent enough S-Video signal and sound.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0126O0RDC Edit: Screenshot - https://i.imgur.com/RaW64GY.jpg
Mediabridge Flex Series Double-Shielded Coax with an StarTech RCACOAXMF RCA to F Type Coaxial Adapter M/F at the Commodore side.
Cable: https://www.amazon.com/Mediabridge-Coaxial-Cable-F-Male-Connectors/dp/B00EYFM3F2
Adapter: https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-RCACOAXMF-Type-Coaxial-Adapter/dp/B003K1V99C
I used this power supply from Amazon, It's more than enough power if you are using to use uIEC, Wifi Modems, and Easy Flash and an Atari power supply. (Yes, you read that right.. The Atari power supply also shows a slightly higher voltage under no load.) I've been using this supply for a month+ with no issues.
Wow, that was a really long review but (price aside) he had me sold on it by the end. Thank you.
Looks like they're about $400 at Amazon.
> Any idea why SID chips sound so different from each other?
Im probably not the best person to ask, but I know there were various iterations, and they did something with the filters which made later sids sound much different. There's also apparently a lot of defective and outright fake SIDs kicking about on Ebay.
I think I read about it in this book, but its a long time since I read it, so might be mistaken..
http://www.amazon.com/Commodore-Company-Edge-Brian-Bagnall/dp/0973864966
Its a really interesting read anyway though
I had this book when i was in middle school.
http://www.amazon.com/Elementary-Commodore-64-William-Sanders/dp/0835917029
I wanted to be able to make my own games, but i got bored with the author was going over an example of using basic to do taxes.
On the upside, i learned programming basics way before i got to college which made CS 101 easy as cake.