I only use the EZ-RJ45 ends now. Never going back to ones you can't push the wires all the way through.
I also use the special crimper designed to automatically cut excess cable off.
You can hide some of it by running the wires behind the table legs and securing. Example here: https://imgur.com/a/XVKd3 last pic
I would also get a wire tray to mount on the underside of the back of the desk: https://smile.amazon.com/WireTray-Under-Desk-Cable-Management/dp/B008FC2CMY?sa-no-redirect=1
Looks like a great start!
Having some experience in automotive wiring, some pointers:
Happy wiring! We have always had a lack of sexy vehicle wiring around here so I look forward to following your project!
Looks like a standard TV wall mount, custom shelves for each console, and custum cut and painted raceways for each cable. Any slack is likely coiled behind the TV.
Sure do. They cost more, have more parts to dull, and are less likely to not crimp right. If you’re doing a handful a year, they can make your life easier and improve reliability of your crimp. If you’re a regular and have the ‘feel’ of them, you’ll find it makes no difference.
ITBEBE RJ45 Crimping Tool Made of Hardened Steel with Wire Cutter Stripping Blades and Textured Grips Turquoise A https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B0798JQYL4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_heYoDbB7JVX39
ITBEBE Gold Plated RJ45 cat5, cat5e 8P8C 50 Pieces Pass Through 3 Micron 3u 3 Prong Premium Connectors https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B073ZM2VBK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_JeYoDbZ7XS8XS
I get these 24 pin atx extensions and cut the wires on those. Then I can just swap to a different PSU whenever I want. Which is super handy since the ones I use tend to come from discarded PCs.
For the love of skin on your knuckles and arms, buy one of these
We've been using a Dymo Rhino 4200 with their flexible nylon labels. I was definitely one of the worst offenders for not labeling anything before we got a couple of them. The wire/cable mode makes it easy, and the nylon labels haven't budged.
For one customer I mounted power strips under a table. With aluminium L brackets.
These are ideal, there is enough space for bulky power adaptors...
Kopp 226720018 Powerversal Steckdosenleiste, 6-fach, IP 20 https://www.amazon.de/dp/B003EI4S3K/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_i_QAXEPXK4MW25EHS32J68
Or New Zealand... this could go on, so here's a list:
There are also a few that are predominantly red white and blue with small amounts of other colors, like Philippines and Serbia. - There are forty that I know of cannot think of them off the top of my head. (Reunion like some others are French Collony islands which use the layout of the French Flag in their own national flag - but the size of colours differenciates.)
Read more: http://wiki.answers.com/Q/Which_countries_have_red_white_and_blue_flags
Ha, pretty cool that the "Read More: {link}" is automatically added to the copy and paste.
Very pretty, but good lord is that man proud of himself. Granted, if I spent "three years" working on something, I'd be proud too.
... but I'd still rather have this one which presses many more of my nerd buttons. Plus, it's $199 in kit form.
Really pleased with the desk! It’s this one.
I was looking for something long enough for a dual monitor setup (when I finally get another display) as well as my laptop etc. Seems sturdy enough for this so far and the side pocket is pretty handy too!
Optical sensors that I bought off of amazon: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00XT0PBC0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 They work flawlessly. Their max sensing distance is probably a little more than 1/2", so the balls have to pass fairly close to them. I ordered some blaze orange balls and they work perfectly with those. Then I ordered a set of lime-green balls and for whatever reason, those balls do not trip them AT ALL. I haven't yet found anything else that doesn't trip them.
Cable management sleeves. I found them on Amazon.
Cable Management Sleeve, JOTO Cord Management System for TV / Computer / Home Entertainment, 19 - 20 inch Flexible Cable Sleeve Wrap Cover Organizer, 4 Piece - Black
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B015HWXG4M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_nFdoBbZ4CTCY2
I suspect we are getting into silly semantics here but let me give you one example of doing the extension part right and why this info would be valuable. My boss wanted some wiring cleaned up in our office and the best place to put a UPS unit sepapate from the rack was to have it positioned where it was no longer in reach of a power socket. It only needed to go another 5 ft so I went and got a high gauge pure extension wire that was only about 6 ft long. It was close to the same gauge as existing APC power cable, maybe a bit bigger, and as short as I could get in order to make sure I was not overtly affecting the impedance. Something like this. I would bet my 25 years of IT experience and spending most of that around hurricanes and tons of lightning strikes that I made just about the safest decision i could while still making my boss happy. And I would bet the folks at APC would agree.
Lessons learned from previous accidents. Better to be safe than sorry.
FAA CablePorn (and how to do it correctly) https://docs.google.com/file/d/0Bz7qR_bMoJoQYzI5OGM1N2MtMjVmZC00YTI0LWFjOTUtOTZhNjAxMzg5YjZm/edit?pli=1#
This isn't my install but it looks nearly ideal for a small/home install. If you plan on running cross connects, make sure to include those spool things for some sort of wire management.
The back board colors actually do have a meaning, not just to be pretty. The most common you will see:
Blue: Station cabling to your telephones
Green: Telco feed. In general don't touch anthing on the other side of this unless you know what you are doing. When you order phone numbers the phone company will leave some cross connect on the appropriate line with a tag hanging from it.
Purple: PBX. The switch tails from the pbx land here.
I'll agree with you on the bullshit talk, but check out a confirmed-legitimate version that you can even buy in a kit.
> A clock that doesn’t rely on ICs. 194 Transistors, 400 resistors, 566 diodes, and 87 capacitors
Obviously it's not laid out in a space-optimal diagram, but the parts count seems very believable.
https://www.dropbox.com/gallery/32728433/1/sent?h=100add
Shure UR4D (wireless receiver)
AMX Netlink Power Supply
AMX NXI-ME
Soundwe Blu-100 Signal processor
AMX Autopatch Optima
Crown CTs 8200
exacqVisor
I've done much much much fewer cable terminations than you, but I always found punch down connectors to be less tedious than terminating with plugs. You get the same "freedom of movement" with keystone jacks, albeit with a much bulkier termination on the cable.
They don't mess around with security either.
Well this is relevant to my interests. My main box, MONOLITH, is going to be undergoing its first major upgrade. I ran into the same problem as you, visible side looks great, but behind it becomes a mess.
The biggest limitation seems to be cable length. You need to get from point A to point B, and the cable you have to route is just 1" too short for a perfect right angle, so you end up having to do a weird diagonal across everything. My suggestion would be extension cables, extension cables everywhere.
I have a mesh network with 3 points, the one at the rack needs to provide network access to the living room and the main bedroom that is on the other side of the wall. The signal strength is good enough, I'm getting -40dBm in the living room and -50dBm in the bedroom. The speed at fast.com is something like 400mbps on a 1gbps connection.
He links to a rackmounted panel, but I'm sure he means something like this:
Those 66-block style patch panels are great for cleaning up house wiring when you remove a cover to find all the blue pairs are just twisted together.
I suppose if they're installed on a 4-post rack it wouldn't be that big a deal as long as you have at least 4 screws holding it down. Some switches could be quite heavy. And you don't want something like this: https://www.reddit.com/r/cablefail/comments/tqjvf/why_use_a_proper_rack_when_you_can_use_this/
Running a Synology DS1512+ with 5 x 1TB drives, and a USB3 3TB drive as backup drive. All on CAT6 and Gigabit. (using jumbo frames)
http://www.synology.com/products/product.php?product_name=DS1512%2B&lang=enu
The router is a Cisco E2000 4 port Gigabit N spec wifi router.
It runs as a local and remote file/media/torrent server.
I use it for media storage and video editing.
The iMac is a i5 2.7 Ghz with 12GB of memory and 1TB harddisk (almost empty)
Ah, my bad.
The firewall is an old recycled dell workstation that I got for 15 bucks. I never really looked too closely at the specs, but it's 3.something GHz, 3-4 Gb RAM with three NICs, and a 60 gb SATA hardrive - and it draws about 60 - 70 watts. That's all I could tell you about the hardware.
Software wise, it's running Smoothwall 3.0. It's not really well documented, but it's pretty simple.
EDIT: Sorry, I didn't see the hardware question. I'm not 100% sure, it's an old box from work. It's some type of generic dell workstation with a 3 somthing GHz processor and 3 or 4 Gigs of RAM - way overkill for a simple home firewall, but it's what I had laying around (and it's a billion times better than the linksys 'routers').
VELCRO Brand Cable Ties, 100Pk - 8 x 1/2" Red and Black, Reusable Alternative to Zip Ties, ONE-WRAP Thin Pre-Cut Cord Organization Straps, Wire Management for Office or Home, VEL-30200-AMS, Black/Red https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08BLCZDYL/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_HYJW54VKHPHTZYZGET4T?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
They also have more colors now VELCRO Brand ONE-WRAP Cable Ties | 60Pk | 8 x 1/2" Straps, Multicolor | Strong Reusable Wire Management | Cord Bundling for Home Office and Data Centers https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00T2JQ0ZE/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_YPM8YT3J9MXXM44SJM1H?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
>Glad it’s not tape.
Or zip ties...
82% overall
This includes a 5% deduction, up from 2% for not flush cutting the zip ties. Wait until you run your arm into a populated rack and one of those razor sharp puppies guillotines your forearm. Might I recommend what I buy my guys... Klein Flush Cutters.
Firstly, I have to day that's a nice setup! I do similar work in the architectural space. I've found that using any of the fanned Meanwell's in an outdoor enclosure, especially one where you are not using water-tight cable glands, and reduce the service life and reliability of the unit. You may not run into that using this intermittently, but if you have a chance in the future, look into using LPV or HLG series units. You should also look into getting a cheap pack of cable glands from amazon instead of the standard Jbox strain reliefs.
I went to a style like this Camco 55394 Standard Battery Hold-Down Tray https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B002XL2I0Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_fabt1_RwZRFb910HJG9?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1 for my application it worked fine, had lots of room to work with in my boat, for you I’m not sure what would work without re-doing the entire layout
The netgear is a JGS524 V2. The small switch is tp-link 8port gigabit switch from Amazon. I can't remember the model but it was a cheap one. The POE injector is from Wi-Fi Texas
WS-POE-8-48v60w Passive 10/100 Power over Ethernet PoE Injector for 8 IP Cameras, VOIP Phones or Access Points, 48 volts, 60 Watts Total Power https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0086SQDMM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awd_9B.GwbHJ8AHB5
It's running two hikvision cameras fed to a Lenovo TS140 running Ubuntu server with a VM running Blue Iris on Windows 8.1.
Amazon sells it. We mainly use it for DC power jobs to tie the power cables to the ladder rack but it comes in handy all the time. Method 2 is the knot you would use.
It really is hard to find good help. Nobody seems to care. I just had to send a coworker that I really like personally back to my superintendent because I couldn't stand his attitude. It's like he didn't want to be there and I kept getting stuff like "its good enough" when I asked him why his threaded rods were off by a quarter inch and obviously not straight (data center work building out cages). I had to lend him my backup measuring tape and he didn't seem to like it when I offered to throw his POS one he was using in the trash for him :)
I bought a set of Lindstrom 8142 ultra flush cuts for my tool bag. I put in an order of 10 for my work (gov't managers) to order for the rest of the office. "We couldn't find anyone with 10 in stock, so we just ordered something else on Amazon, I hope they work." Gee. Thanks.
​
https://www.amazon.com/Lindstrom-8142-80-Cutting-Capacity/dp/B000C79I7W
Flush cutters are flat on the outside and bevel the inside, leaving a smooth non-sharp surface after the cut. Traditional flush cutters look like thisflush cutters, while my favorite, KnipexKnipex flush cutters look more like traditional diagonal cutters.
Thanks for the compliment!
The switch is a Ubiquiti Unifi USW-PRO-24 no POE because I only have one device that needs POE. So I'm using an injector.
On the top left, it's a cable modem with Videotron 400Mb/50Mb (Canada/Montreal)
On the top right is the router, a Ubiquiti Unifi USG.
The patch cables are Monoprice SlimRun Cat6A Ethernet Network Patch Cable 10G 6-inch. I was surprised cables so fine can be CAT6A. But the reviews on Amazon and the internet look very good.
here’s an amazon link to the book i got (Digital Computer Electronics https://www.amazon.com/dp/0028005945/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_yHyYsN4bBKFqR). It honestly serves as a near perfect guide to all this. There are some things that he doesn’t have though, like making the 3 Digit Display for output and some additions in the clock module. For understanding a basic CPU tho, you couldn’t ask for a better book.
Thanks! That is the Amazon Echo Show 8 with Adjustable Stand. It uses Amazon's Alexa instead of the Google Assistant
Please tell me you're using one of these.
Sooooooo much easier. You can reach in and get one in the middle. Takes a little while to get used to using it, but once you do you won't go back. If your boss wont get you one, spend the $13 on amazon - you won't regret it. The end of the tool is pretty stiff, it's easy to get an f-connector wrench tight with just one of these.
The patch panel, and the structured media enclosure. I have no idea of the patch panel is truly cat six or third-party approved, supposedly the Amazon page say the bandwidth tests comply with ANSI/TIA standards. It’s pretty much just a typical patch panel, the Commericial Electric model at Home Depot probably has the same specs on it. What you’ve probably already seen is that the cable provider backbone is copper pairs, so I’m not expecting Anything particularly fast.
I just wanted for my family and I to be able to plug in our computers, printers, A/V equipment, and enjoy faster upload and download speeds. I might put an intruder alarm system in this thing to, or I might leave the extra room there in case I expand toward 24 ports or something. I think I’ve said it in the captions, but I’m sick of cable providers just poking a hole on the side of the house and calling it a done day.
Easier and faster to use keystone connectors and panels, no?
https://www.amazon.com/DIGITUS-Modular-Coupler-shielded-Ethernet/dp/B004RPEJII
We only use these as we save so much time versus using a punch down tool
Just came back to find the downvotes. 2 pin XLR is a thing people, threaded versions exist and the keying of the connectors works like this connector. Anyway, after some Googling it’s a YETOR W-908.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/YETOR-Waterproof-Connectors-Connector-Extension/dp/B07WDBLFDN
It’s some cheap China connector so probably appears under multiple brands.
Agreed but learn to delete all the bullshit from your links guy. Gotta give you a downvote for this.
https://www.amazon.com/Construct-Pro-Ring-3-25-Qty/dp/B009YWJROU/
This is a completely fictional cable. It is a 3-color ribbon cable (indicating 3 discrete pathways) but it has a 4-pin header on it. However if you are looking to make something like this for cosplay purposes or something, I believe they were trying to imitate something like this https://www.amazon.com/uxcell-Rainbow-Ribbon-Cable-2-54mm/dp/B07JP2FX1D which should still work for the purpose demonstrated.
Oh I bet you are talking about this
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07J2Q9NPH
I have both an 85" TV and a Sony 295ES projector in this room and my sound processor does not like them together for some reason so I got this splitter for mediation haha.
SinLoon Gold Plated High Speed 90 Angle Right HDMI Male to Left HDMI Male Adapter Cable Supports Ethernet, 3D and Audio Return (0.3M R-L) https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B01MYWAHCI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_XQ43SCKYJS3P6XBNR3X3
Cerrxian 0.5m High Speed HDMI 2.0 HDMI Left Angle Male to HDMI Right Angle Male Short Cable Ultra HD 4k x 2k HDMI Cable Supports Ethernet, 3D, 4K and Audio for TVs, Laptops(Black)(lm-rm) https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B06XT2JS1G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_TBSRQA2KN0VQJDP2HFA3
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B099NP2PD1/
I've just barely begun but am using those.
My complaint is they give you like 4+ copies of the panel side label but then only 2 sheets of outlet/switch labels.
GearIT Cat 6 Ethernet Cable 0.5 ft 6-Inch (24-Pack) - Cat6 Patch Cable, Cat 6 Patch Cable, Cat6 Cable, Cat 6 Cable, Cat6 Ethernet Cable, Network Cable, Internet Cable - Blue 0.5 Foot https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00XIFJSEI/
Just an Amazon rack. Way overpriced for what it is, but okay constructed and easy to install.
This is the link for Amazon Germany, maybe look for something international:
Ergobasis Gitterkabelkanal 600 mm lang, robustes Drahtkonstrukt, für JEDEN Schreibtisch zum Unterbau, Platz für Netzteile, Steckdosen, Adapter und lange Kabel, Kabelkorb und Kabel-Management https://www.amazon.de/dp/B006Y691AY/ref=cm_sw_r_awdo_PFTJ36B931HAWJQHERGM
I recommend cheap cable management like spiral straps or split straps (split is more common in cars). This makes the wires bunch together and really that's the biggest part of professional wiring presentation, imo. The split straps are found a lot on the other wiring harnesses within a vehicle. Both are very fast to install.
Here is an example of spiral strapping: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07JQ1QHVF/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_i_K6T4GHXK7JBHHWR7ASS2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Here is an example of split strap (called split sleeving here): https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07FW3GTXB/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_i_WDKH0DPRVE71BB7M43PM?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I believe these are the ones I used
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00SHBN2OK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_7VS5Y6JP8KSYQ1E36NA0
Runs that don’t need as much support I use a much cheaper alternative
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08X1Y8DPY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_XNF81QKDJGYF02KAGHQH
I nearly went with these , https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09HC9RX1G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_dl_25KS2YG2ARNXCBVGA1QQ
I really wanted to build with 6a and use these
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07GNVCCSD/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_NHYW87RBEXFJSJQ20YH9
It's two plugs moulded together to make one. The left one looks like a 6 pin din the other looks like a 2 pin din loud speaker plug
It is on amazon. 9 ply waxed lace.
I have a few cable combs but for patch panels I use this one....
Cable Organizing and Bundler Tool,25-Hole Cable Dresser for Data Center, Server Rooms and Machine Room Wire Management and Organizer, Perfect for Cable Management(CAT5, CAT6) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B098JKF61S/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_i_KNKJV8CK57M5VWD53VV2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
So I put them in order in the comb and as I get to their port I take them out of the comb
I think they have residential wind turbines there was a story in the news about people installing them To the all magical google: https://www.google.com/#q=residential+wind+turbines&hl=en&safe=off&prmd=imvnsl&source=univ&tbm=shop&tbo=u&sa=X&ei=nWTWTsiAOoelsQL6_PHzDg&sqi=2&ved=0CIABEK0E&bav=on.2,or.r_gc.r_pw.,cf.osb&fp=f024f5f61...
Here is another version, I prefer this type as it has pulling grips built into the comb, downside it is pricey for two chunks of plastic.
While I do like this approach, I prefer to use saddles and zip ties. I'm sure there's cheaper ones out there, this is just for reference.
What about a box to hide power cables like this? It looks like it has clips to help keep the lid on and you can just screw it to the wall to hide the coiled wire.
Yeah that's the quick and easiest solution. Looks like there's room in there, and since it's a UPS you can afford to take a bit of time to uncoil it nicely and then recoil it to fit whatever pocket of space you can find nicely. I've worked with boxes similar to that, and there's like 1-1.5 inches of space under the lowest U, so you could probably just let it hang loose (but nicely) underneath everything, out of sight, and easy to pull more slack if needed for some reason.
To complement it, you could get something like this to have the cable run more nice and flush against the wall. Just need to find a three-foot version of it. Make sure the wire gauge is thick enough!
Also, plug into the top spot on the outlet, to free up the second one if needed :)
I like these cable wire markers. You need to slide them onto the CAT5/6 cable before terminating the ends, but other than that they are a permanent way to mark each end of the cables. They sell them as groups of letters and also numbers.
I had tried several other types of cable markers, but was always disappointed. Paper printable labels dry out and flake off; on plastic printable labels, the adhesive would undo and the label would open and fall off the cables. Plastic tags attached to zip ties were better, but less readable depending on the sharpie and writer. These yellow tags need to go on when you make the cables, but after that, you're good for the life of the cable. I usually put the same thing on each end of the cable, and then something different on the next cable. You could spell out whole words if you wanted to.
I have a chubby with the expansion card (lan, modem and ide port) and i used this method : https://sites.google.com/site/ashholt/ps2softmod
Apparently theres a newer way that works with slims and doesnt require any special software.
If your looking into wring lacing I'm sure you have ordered some already, get some was string, that was really gives cable laceing it's stability (wax string on amazon)[https://www.amazon.com/Generic-Premium-Quality-Waxed-Lacing/dp/B096466JVD/ref=sr_1_2?crid=24T4VPP3T27IM&keywords=wax+string&qid=1640527432&sprefix=wax+string%2Caps%2C153&sr=8-2]
Is there a hackerspace or other IT-oriented community near you? I go to one that offers occasional free classes and if you can find something like that it would be a great way to gain some knowledge and more importantly interact with experienced people. I learned most of what I know from posting to technical forums and hanging around my university CS dept, talking with the people there. See if you can find some way to meet other IT people in your area, hang out with them, and watch them work on stuff. You'll pick up a lot. A Linux users group, although not strictly networking-oriented, will certainly have people who can teach you what you are looking for, or point you in the right direction.
As for trying stuff hands on, get a router that is compatible with OpenWRT or DD-WRT and mess around with it. If you can get some old Cisco or Juniper gear to play with from a local local business that's even better.
In addition to the links that others have provided, there are college-level courses offered for free online. http://www.openculture.com/freeonlinecourses has a good list of them, and you can probably find more through astute use of Google.
So you are trying to repair a graphics card or something? as that thread is from 2011?
Sometimes you can just scrape away bridges with your soldering iron, if it is still bridged after wicking then most likely it has a track underneath it.
See this hi res image of a raspberry pi. You will notice on the BGA that some pins are joined by traces, but those traces are covered up in some sort of coating that solder doesn't stick to.
http://www.raspberrypi.org/wp-content/uploads/2011/12/front1.jpg
Sometimes if you look real close you can see the copper track sitting on top of the fibreglass PCB.
http://www.simongroup.com/PressRoom/Images/aries/ARI-A-7440.jpg
You might want to go to to one of the electronics based subs, they may have someone with experience with BGA's.
Nice that you have a Mitel phone on the network. I assume that the freePBX server is the controller for it. Any issues that way? I have quite a few of those phones here are the office and remote, but we use their controller.
Also, look into adding a firewall somewhere for all of those devices. I didn't see one in your VM's but I suggest Untangle. We use it here as a transparent one on our own hardware and it rocks. Free too.
> #5 is the intranet which is in such a state no one uses it and is saving locally to desktop. Fun times!
If I may make a suggestion to help you keep your hair:
Pre packaged intranet that doesn't suck. I don't know if it is within your budget but I thought it may help.
Well shit I could have saved you a ton of time and effort!
WD 20TB My Book Duo Desktop RAID External Hard Drive, USB 3.1 - WDBFBE0200JBK-NESN https://www.amazon.com/dp/B074R34DD3/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_7GN1RYFAV3CNXAD72HHE
Joking aside it’s crazy I can pick up an 18TB drive for <$400. Absolutely indcredible.
6-pack .2m LC to LC fiber patch cable OM3
I have not used these but am ordering them today. Will report back if I have any issues.
This label maker with the 3/4" vinyl labels is absolutely stellar (I'm a tech who uses this almost daily). They'll stick for decades.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IELD1O4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc_07KCAPJTGNYNQ6BJ2BDW
The structure is there now. You get points for that.
Instead of bundling the cables up in one place, add some loops in the path to get there, and adjust the slack in-line so it can be dress with the rest of the cables.
Invest in a method of labeling your work. I prefer to color-code the cables themselves, but you may just want to wrap a tag on each end of the cable.
$8, 6 colors: https://www.amazon.com/Soundoriginal-Electrical-Dustproof-Adhesive-Multicolor/dp/B07S9NNCGQ
Finally, while the surge-protector is generally unsightly, I prefer to have it accessible (instead of mounting it to the wall). Once you get used to dressing the cables in-line, you can generally dress them back in one direction on the surge-protector itself. this will not only allow you to push the entertainment center all the way against the wall, but also allows you to power-cycle devices without moving everything.
> level 2Meior · 18dNanotape most likely.3ReplyGive AwardShareReportSave
> level 2patrickngo2104Op · 18dI chose this:
Is this stuff actually, removable and "reusable/ restickable"?
if you don't mind a month wait to ship from china get a couple Convoy S2's from AliExpress with the "2700k SST-20 LEDs" and "x8 driver chips". the flashlights are less than $20 each and the SST-20's have a 98% color accuracy. the driver chips control how bright your flashlight can get, the maximum is 8 chips in parallel.
if you want to stay with Amazon check out the Wowtac A1S in neutral white. the neutral white is considered a nicer than the cool white.
there's also this stickied thread that gets updated every few months
I'm down with the zip tie situation as long as it's replaced with Velcro at the end. As far as the trunks go, I used to feel by hand when a wire was out of place and could rearrange the wires as needed. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07SHGHQD8/ref=cm_sw_r_sm_apa_glt_fabc_JXYCABBS6FAP1NSD91Z4
I've used many iterations of cable combs and find this one gets the job done as long as you segment the wire before combing it. This will make your trunks look like spaghetti. 🤌 I didn't mean to be harsh in my previous reply, but go through my posts and see that I have become better from criticism. If you don't know any better, how will you learn?
The link you posted has a bunch of \'s in the second half that breaks it. It works fine when those are removed.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07T3WFNVR/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Just use artificial catgut/sinew
Agreed. Grab a roll of double-sided velcro tape.
Can easily unroll to move cables around (this is inevitable) and wont leave sticky goo.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000289614/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabc_Is34FbGF2M335
Used this on a few quintillion houses when I did residential HVAC. Bigger than you would use on any small electronics but still handy if you do any big cabling jobs.
My crew rolls with flush cutters, diagonal cutters, ziptie guns and these handy dandy torches for cleaning up protective mesh.
The cable organizer bar behind the punch area is to run the trunk along it, and break out the cables into the ports. Instead of coming straight into the panels like that, they should all come from one side and lay down on that organizer.
People have already brought up Velcro and flush cutters. But I want to repeat, flush cutters. Let me say again for effect flush cutters. Oh, and did I mention flush cutters?
The next guy who goes to work in that rack is gonna look like he got into a cat fight with his forearms.
Klein is a good brand, but nobody beats Knipex diagonal flush cutters. .
They last forever where normal flush cutters die pretty quickly, go through everything like butter, and they look like normal diagonal cutters instead of flush cutters.
That part is slightly more cheesy (sorry no photo) -- basically I press-fit these plastic 3-pin connectors into the case. Not IP65 for sure, but it doesn't really need to be IP65. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07BW9DQRD/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1&fpw=alm
Make sure you come at the stud from both left and right sides to try and find the center of it. Then use a small thin drill bit to drill a test hole to make sure you hit the stud.
Stud finders are weird sometimes. I use a magnetic stud finder that will find the screws used to fasten the drywall to the studs. I've had good luck with that one. Amazon link
Looks like I found them on amazon.
Thank you good Sir!
I used these cable clips below.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B075Y9J42T/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I did a lot of research of several types of cable clips on Amazon and after using these ones i would definitely recommend. The adhesive is very strong compared to others. I just put these all over the back of the edge table and routed the cables through them. Worked like a charm! I also used three of them to clip the power strips to the bottom of the desk. I would cut the zip tie of one of them and run the other two zip ties through 1. I don't know if that makes sense. I can add pictures. Might be easier to understand.
Could use these to tidy it up even more:
CrocSee 10ft - 1 inch Braided Cable Management Sleeve Cord Protector - Self-Wrapping Split Wire Loom for TV/Computer/Home Theater/Engine Bay - Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08FJ3BL8H/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_fab_JviIFb6B3GCRD
Yup, 43" 4K samsung in the middle with two 24" 1080p side monitors. The screens match up perfectly and with a little configuration, the pixels can line up too. The monitor mount is mostly custom. Here is the base, but sound bar mount and the side screen mounts were added on by me with an aluminum bar and two basic vesa mount swing arms bolted to the aluminum bar.
The above is a basement not a data centre so a tidy bundle install is fine IMO.
Cable comb for instals that need to look perfect such as data centre.
Do you ever use ‘cable sock’? I’ve never seen it on Reddit and guessing it’s mostly US instals on here. I worked on a huge instal in Scotland and we ‘socked’ all the exposed cables as time didn’t allow to make everything pretty.
https://www.amazon.com/Expandable-Management-Organizer-Protector-MILAPEAK/dp/B07CVG5YST
Yep! We haven’t had any issues in regards to that. Never really thought about it though until you mentioned it since it just works!
I think in that case you’re referring to one like this which is an HDMI to coax modulator. I’ve looked into them, but they definitely are pretty pricey!
I've only ever found Y adapters with C13 heads to a NEMA 5-15P.
I can't find a cable that goes from a NEMA 5-15P to three C13 connectors.
This is what I'm talking about: https://www.amazon.ca/Startech-Com-Standard-Computer-Power-PXT101Y/dp/B0002GRQR2
you're saying they make triple C13 versions of these?
This is hella cool but there is a company called HideIt that makes some pretty good mounts for the wall, have one for my Xbox, modem, and Nintendo switch as well as 2 controller holders. They have them on Amazon