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Dropping my story to maybe save you some headache down the road. I had a very similar door knob on my front door when I moved in that was broken, so I had to replace it for safety concerns. It’s a “mortise” style door knob and lock, there essentially is a giant single mechanism inside the door. Converting it to a new lock was pretty difficult, but looks like you might be able to replace it with a new version of a mortise lock.
Ah ok, well then someone has essentially closed off the fireplace,and since ventilation needs to be provided to the chimney to avoid moisture collecting on the soot and smoke deposits within the chimney and forming damp areas, they built an air-brick structure, while maintaining the decoration of the fireplace.
I think if you could get that panel open, you might see an air-brick set up, that allows for the draft you are feeling, but isn’t a “fireplace” anymore.
If you really want to see what is behind that panel, get the flexible camera scope tool, (that you hook up to your cell phone), and feed it through that vent. They are pretty cheap on amazon, like these.
I have a house built in 1904. I found the original deed and even some documents on the original mortgage. My search started on Sandborn maps, which I had to use many times in NYC for work doing research on property lines vs deeds. The other place I used, that surprised me, was ancestry.com. You can find census records and in my area they are done by street and house number with the names of all those living in the home. That lead to many more discoveries.
You might want to leave the carpet on the stairs for now, until all/most of the upstairs work is done. The carpet will protect the stairs while you're lugging tools and supplies up and down.
And take a look at Sweet Home 3D, it's free and will let you redo your floorplans accurately.
Great point, but you can get a perfectly serviceable endoscope on amazon for 20 bucks. I got this one and I've been very happy with it.
What about “interior door key”? The screwdriver part works on modern knobs, but the handle part is bent such that it might work on yours.
If you decide to strip it, get a set of scrapers designed for just this job. You can get a handle with a variety of different shapes or buy them separately. Something like this-
Yes, people can be dumb about windows, they probably still work fine! The sash cord you need is the one with red diamonds: https://www.amazon.com/Samson-Rope-001016001060-Spot-Cotton/dp/B002C3NBDQ
It's actually pretty easy to restring a window, especially since you've still got the weights in there attached to the other end. Once you get a hang of it, you can do it pretty quickly.
ENEACRO 1-1/4 Inch SDS-Plus 12.5 Amp Heavy Duty Rotary Hammer Drill, Safety Clutch 3 Functions with Vibration Control Including Grease, Chisels and Drill Bits with Case https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07ZQY2XVQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_Ve5JFbB33A8N7?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Thank me later.
Since the house was built in 1871, it likely has a foundation made with limestone mortar. Which means you might get seasonal water leaking (our 1891 Farmhouse in Maine did during the spring thaw). This wasn't too much of an issue- as long as the floor is sloped towards the sump pump/drains and you don't keep anything directly on the floor itself (we did metal shelving whose bottom didn't need to be right on the ground (we used edsal's industrial welded steel framed shelves) and a couple metal/plastic Dunnage Racks (same kind restaurants use to keep stuff off the floor) for things like the bags of salt our water softener needed).
Check if your basement has any additional steel/wood beams to support the floor- you want to make sure they aren't slanted and still in good shape (not rusting/decaying).
"Renovating Old Houses" by George Nash is a good resource.
Edit: added link.
Find a nice credenza that matches the space and use something like this on it. We have one cause we have ship lap that won’t hold a TV, and it’s barely noticeable.
Universal Swivel TV Stand/Base... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07MT66CH1?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
I only learned how of these the other day. I went to a new friend’s house and she had this one. Artscape Magnolia Window Film 24" x 36" https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000Q3QWRG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_Q655E5DKHFKSS7CBT47P
I thought it was really nice looking, and I just assumed it was real stained glass. You can also get something more simple, that’s just frosted, for privacy. I can’t say if it’s easy to remove, but people might mention that in reviews if you choose one. There’s tons of different options. Wayfair had nice, but more expensive ones. 3M makes them too.
I started this project last year but paused it based on other work. I was using a box cutter but it’s too flimsy. I bought a special window tool, like this, which seems like it’d work better: Hyde 45200 Window Opener https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00PD9FIP0?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Good luck with this project, it's great to see it being preserved and restored instead of being torn down for new construction! I grew up in the area, I know how unlikely it is to be practical to buy land there for the donor building, but maybe there's some possiblity of finding a barn someone wants removed somewhere between the Hudson Valley and the Capital Region? I used to watch Barnwood Builders on Discovery, but I don't remember if they ever disclosed their methods for finding the donor buildings/barns they harvested.
When you're ready to take a break and let your muscles recover, I think you might enjoy this book: Hudson Valley History and Mystery
Please update us on your progress!
This is a photo from We Got Steam Heat by Dan Holohan. Totally essential book if you’ve got steam heat. It will change your relationship with your heating system.
If it's just like one spot, you can try white vinegar: get the floor really, really wet with the vinegar, and then wet some paper towels with the vinegar and leave them them on top of the spot for several hours. Let it dry naturally, and sometimes the cat smell will evaporate with the vinegar smell.
As someone else mentioned, you could also do the same thing with an enzyme cleaner. I like this brand.
Obviously, you risk damaging your floor (though mine did fine), but it's something to try if you're at the point of thinking about getting rid of your floor or doing a major refinish anyway.
I have some cleaning suggestions in case this is helpful. Unfortunately, I'm not sure how to fix cracks. I have the same floor tile as you and pink tile walls and have grown to just love the cracks and accept the flaws.
For the floor, I got really great results with getting the tile to look cleaner by first deep cleaning with a scrub brush (like for dishes) + floor cleaner and then scrubbing the heck out of it with a magic eraser. I might have even used soft scrub but this was a long time ago at this point.
Our tub was disgusting and had a terrible paint job over it. Getting it reglazed was 100% worth the cost. Did that 7 years ago and it's holding up extremely well and it's our main bath so it's used a lot. Just a few small chips from our detachable shower head falling off the hook. For a gentle cleaner, I use dawn soap + vinegar or scrubbing bubbles spray and wipe with a soft cloth.
I clean the tiled walls with windex to give them a nice shine and makes a huge difference.
This stuff is AMAZING when it comes to cleaning silicone grout. I had some tough stains and it whitened everything up. It doesn't drip so you can easily use it on a painted tub: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08CR4ST1G?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
I actually just refreshed the silicone around my tub. I followed a YouTube tutorial from See Jane Drill and used this silicone tube: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0000DI7XA?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
This smells awful so keep a window open and turn on the vent. It was super easy to work with and the finished result looks great!
I've just gone through this, and bought these to go on two fake trees on the front porch - https://www.amazon.com/Christmas-Operated-Waterproof-Automatic-Decorations/dp/B07H77JZ9S (warm white)
I was concerned they would be really dim, being battery powered, but they seem fine. I am still waiting to see if they use a lot of batteries. They have some solar options as well.
I have an outdoor outlet in the back and did not want to run an extension cord around to the front. Getting an outlet in the front is on the list of things to do.
We got this summer infant one for the stairs in our house.
Summer Deluxe Stairway Simple to Secure Wood Gate, 30-48 Inch Wide https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00L2BMPRW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_bPoEFb4N82E1H
It’s not quite as dark as the wood on the stairs but blends nicely and we got a thing so we didn’t have to drill into the bannister.
> The set screw (the screw on the side of the knob in the brass bit) recommendations are correct, however if the knobs wobble at all the threads in either the knob or the stem it’s on have worn away. The only real solution is to replace one or both
That's what I thought until recently. The spindle is relatively easy to replace. The knobs don't have to be replaced however. You can buy a replacement spindle and a set screw that is smaller than the set screw for the knob, but correctly sized for that spindle. You screw the set screw through the knob (it doesn't even engage with the knob's threads) and all through the spindle until it pushes through to the other side of the knob. Then your knob will be on tight and the only threads you have to worry about are on the new spindle.
I recently did one using a "pour on" type paint from amazon that you even out with a comb. The key was just tons of prep work. I spent about 40 hours sanding and smoothing because of the rust, so the pour was scary but it came out very nice!
It doesnt compare to a professional spray job of course, but its been 3 years without and issue!
I love the mirrors! What about window decals made to go on glass like this Lemon Cloud Window Privacy Film, No-Adhesive Static Decorative Window Film, Frosted Stained Glass Window Cling 3D Leaf Design (17.5 by 78.7 Inches, 3D Leaf) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071RCT8XP/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_5952RZRT05YJQ7DC3E48?psc=1
You'd be able to make the mirrors not so directly reflective, but still get some translucent light reflected out. There are hundreds of different kinds of that film and it would be easy to put up and take down
I am not sure if someone already posted it but there’s some awesome peel and stick wallpaper on Amazon recently that’s very period authentic and cool. NextWall Morris Flower Botanical Peel and Stick Wallpaper (Denim Blue & Salmon) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B094174Z9Q/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_DJ0Q3GBZQX95EAK29BQH?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Holy Moly, that was rough. Folks were living in a treasure and didn’t even realize it. Your updates are perfection and en pointe for the era which still retaining a modern, livable sensibility. Just glorious! Have mercy, that mirror. 😳 I will say that it’s actually shockingly easy to paste paper over window glass using simple starch, so I’m sure the same could be done with a lighter weight wallpaper. They also have some surprising nice peel & stick these days. Your style is impeccable so I trust your taste. Id go with a muted Craftsman style that plays well with your color scheme. I trend slightly ornate, and so would go with a William Morris vibe, but I’m sure there are some nice textural neutrals. I really love this one: https://www.amazon.com/NextWall-Stenciled-Floral-Stick-Wallpaper/dp/B09RKQD3PN/ref=sr_1_9?crid=1FDYA1U03346O&keywords=William%2BMorris%2Bwallpaper&qid=1652031014&sprefix=william%2Bmorris%2Bwallpaper%2Caps%2C80&sr=8-9&th=1
What a great idea to cover it until you can get to it properly!
I am thinking something that won’t compete with your amazing stained glass, that looks sort of “timeless.” Like a simple cream grasscloth look or something like this
https://www.acehardware.com/departments/paint-and-supplies/specialty-paints/glazes/18469?store=14923
Prime-Line Products PL 14856 Steel Sash Window Glazing Clip,(Pack of 50) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000BQLQZ6/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_M96YAR8XHEDMJ1AHVW4P?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Just search YouTube for videos about glazing steel frame windows. It will show you how it all works together.
Get yourself a copy of the "A Field Guide To American Houses".
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/0375710825/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
It'll answer your question and then some. Assuming you have more than just a passing interest.
My local hardware store and Menards has these too.
We have a regular old hanging shower caddy thing. Rather than having it hang directly over the shower head, though, we have it hanging on a shower hook tucked into a corner. Claw foot showers can feel confined, so finding a corner or area that doesn't impede more of the space is helpful. For ours, having it right under the shower head just projected too much into the shower itself.
Of course! I have to add a disclaimer first though: if your house is anything but victorian, it’s probably not an appropriate technique (definitely not if it’s craftsman!) and if you have “nice” wood trim (such as oak) I would say your stripping and refinishing efforts are worth it. But if it’s a Victorian with pine trim (like mine!) I say go for it:) it is much easier once you figure it out and much less messy!
Materials: - base: Benjamin moore richmond gold (in a glossy or eggshell sheen) - glaze: oil based gel stain (I tried Zar and Minwax and prefer minwax even though Zar is the faux bois standard). I used Mahogany but that’s very dark. I only recommend this shade if you want to stain very dark like I did. - stain: I used a layer of the same oil based mahogany gel stain to add darkness - stain: then I used an Old Masters wiping stain in dark walnut to tone down the orange I was getting. (This is also oil based) - finish: shellac :) (my favorite wood finish)
Tools: - Graining tools. I got these and a few others but I think these are my most used. This will depend on the size of your trim so buy a bunch and find what works! - and a stiff brush that will apply the glaze but will leave brush strokes. This took some playing around, I think I bought 4-5 until I found the right one. You want something stiff and coarse to leave lines (it adds to the grain look) but you also want to apply an even layer of glaze so it’s a balance.
Then practice! I used scrap wood in my shop to practice on for a few weeks before diving in.
We had a tricky stair situation as well, and settled on this gate: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00501KWO8
You'd want to ensure you attach to the wall at a right angle from where it would connect with the post. In your case, that'll leave a small gap over your top stair. May not be a big deal, but it's hard to tell from the picture. At least you don't need to worry about drilling into your post.
You can get a pressure mounted gate and purchase a “y shaped spindle rod” attachment from Amazon we have one that works great. [y shaped spindle rod](www.amazon.com/dp/B08M3PYJ2K/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_5ACJCGW8BNRQMC6C46KV)
this attachment is specifically made for this!
Check out loloi rugs on amazon. Or maybe my faves are on loloi 2 technically? I got some amazing ones there, If you're okay with no pile. I think loloi 1 has pile. Loloi II Skye Collection SKY-12 Charcoal / Dove, Traditional 7'-6" x 9'-6" Area Rug https://www.amazon.com/dp/B082NQGPYD/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_WZNW1PMEMWKWBPQC0RJK?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1 Loloi II Skye Collection SKY-02 Ivory / Berry, Traditional 7'-6" x 9'-6" Area Rug https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07N1HCXG2/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_1SY7S6PG8SMG2K4YGBH8?psc=1 These two are the ones I bought and they're just beautiful.
Fascinating. Jews, in particular, have a history of owning dry goods stores. You might learn more about the history of the owners and see if you can trace that! If you’re interested in that history, see: https://www.amazon.com/Jew-Store-Stella-Suberman/dp/1565123301
If you have roots infiltrating your drain line, you can buy yourself time and avoid drain rooting (that oftentimes damages the old ceramic/concrete drain pipes) by using products like this once or twice a year:
I would paint them. It is common to have the risers and side baseboard painted a different color than the treads.
Another option to a full carpet runner is stair tread carpet, such as:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07RGC5VLM/
OTOH does that newel post have pretty wood under the paint? Not all of them did.
The corners, between the spindles, and the noseing are done with a scraper and some sand paper by hand. You could use something like this ALLWAY CS6 Soft-Grip Contour Scraper Set with 6 Blades and Blade File https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000BQMZ9C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_035ER35CFT6Z051CKMCA
If the part you want to tile is the face these decals are a great option. I’ve considered them too. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08NPC13J4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_B5G1S2M4TA5CRTM4D0KY
May I recommend these runners?. You can paint the risers white, repaint the stair treads and peel and stick these bad boys on! Here is one from Amazon but you can find many more.
Best of luck whatever you do.
It didn't take much. Just a 7" to 4" duct reducer I got off amazon and some duct tape.
This is the brand i got
They are also available through Amazon
Classic Push Button Light Switch With Double Mother-Of-Pearl Inlay https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M0XTET1
eazart Peel and Stick Backsplash Tile Aluminum Metal Self-Adhesive Hexagon Mosaic Decor for Kitchen Bathroom Living Room (10, Hexagon) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08RJ34YN9/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_717FJ4VSY8CK436595HR?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I interned for a photographer who (at least claimed to have) invented this type of photography. Wrote a book and everything, he called it painting with light or light painting photography.
Here's his book if anyone was interested in learning ing this very time consuming technique. www.amazon.com/dp/B009K8ZF8K/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_TQT7NYKVPQ03GMBQS3XM
Design House 577502 Schoolhouse Modern Industrial Farmhouse Indoor Dimmable Light, 1, This is an example of a schoolhouse fixture. I just happen to like them. Oil Rubbed Bronze https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00YP1RWPG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_CN8DAZFM8TF96R0A5FP8
Fake wood graining is is made with adding color to glaze, then building up layers of different colored glazes. The wood grain tools look like:
https://www.amazon.com/Amazon-Basics-Wood-Graining-3-Pieces/dp/B08D9QK65H/
and you gently pull the tool through the still wet glaze while rotating the tool. The pattern on the tool makes the semi random wood grain pattern in the finish. More art than science.
After the glazing dries, it's kinda like a paint layer.
Since you expressed difficulty designing this room, I hope it’s ok to share an idea or two?
With the deep wall color (which I love!), every window and door pops. It’s a good rhythm, but puts a lot of focus on the windows and doors. To bring focus back to the room itself, consider an accent wall. You could do removable wallpaper all along the wall behind the couch, something that ties the colors of the room together (wall, floor, blinds and wood tables): wallpaper idea This is easy to apply, peel and stick. Removes with no damage or residue.
Since this is the dog’s play zone, they need a toy basket: puppy toy basket
Gather the small art pieces and display shelves and create more of a gallery wall at one of the room ends.
Lamps on tables.
Ditch the tiny toile curtain header - the wood blinds look strong and unfussy without it.
The rocking chair is a very nice piece! Maybe a lumbar cushion in the rose color from the wallpaper, if you use it. The wood looks dry - may need a sand and fresh stain and seal, or just a murphy’s oil soap?
All your shelves and tv stuff is out in the open. This space can handle cabinets that close. Stay with the wood tones you gave already or paint thrifted finds one of the colors in your room palette. Cabinets that close will help keep curious puppy snoots out of your stuff and fur off your electronics.
Since you expressed difficulty designing this room, I hope it’s ok to share an idea or two?
With the deep wall color (which I love!), every window and door pops. It’s a good rhythm, but puts a lot of focus on the windows and doors. To bring focus back to the room itself, consider an accent wall. You could do removable wallpaper all along the wall behind the couch, something that ties the colors of the room together (wall, floor, blinds and wood tables): wallpaper idea This is easy to apply, peel and stick. Removes with no damage or residue.
Since this is the dog’s play zone, they need a toy basket: puppy toy basket
Gather the small art pieces and display shelves and create more of a gallery wall at one of the room ends.
My K&T work started on Thursday.
My contractor is making several small holes in each room. The number depends on the wire. The main bedroom has about 15 holes. They will rough-patch the holes, and the painters will still need to sand/finish.
Yes, to the network cables. At least one to each room. It's much cheaper to do it while the work is being done.
I'm getting new under-cabinet lights added in.
There are good quality battery operated light switches so you have have a three-way switch at the top and bottom of the stars (for example) without running wire. They work well and the watch-like battery lasts for years. Something like this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07HM6L48C/ (which has a dimmer etc, but there are many options there).
I'm getting LED panels (they look like old-style fluorescent lights) installed in in the basement, so the place is light up well.
I'm getting an overhead outlet installed in the middle of the basement with an overhead retractable extension cord. Helpful on projects I figure. Something like https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FI0MXSE
Light fixture changes are free. The electrician said if I have to take one down, putting up a new one is no extra work/charge. I am replacing a few ceiling fans and light fixtures.
I'm adding outside power points (patio, front porch, back deck). I'm adding a fan to the front porch so I can work there on the hottest summer days.
Also going in are outside lights. The stairs at the side of the house to the backyard are dark at night. I want those security style where they automatically come on AND I can also choose to turn them on and keep them on.
Hope that helps.
Do you just need a flue stop for the vent hole? (I've never lived in a house with a coal furnace so I'm not sure what the "vent" looks like. Amazon has flue stops: https://www.amazon.com/Fireplace-Stove-Pipe-Cover-Stopper/dp/B08BV1FXFP.
Get these. Blackout velour curtains . I have them in my 1908 craftsman. Silky. Reduces heat and cold. Washable. Cute.
I have a 1920 home with plaster walls, and the Command picture hanging strips have been amazing!
Command Large Picture Hanging Strips, White, Holds up to 16 lbs, 14-Pairs https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073XR4X72/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_i_8PC6CKVGAHEF22YJ4NQ8
One of the guest bedrooms gets stuffy & hot. I improved the HVAC as much as I could but it was still so-so. Then it occurred to me that maybe the painted shut transom windows could be more than just showy.
It took like absolutely no time at all to install replica transom controllers. They’re a perfect match with the original screw holes in the door frame for the original controllers. Installation was dead simple.
I used a CRL Window Zipper Deglazing Tool (pic 5) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00QL57QSM to cut open the painted shut transoms and it couldn’t have been easier. This tool was incredible and I wish I knew about it decades ago.
Final result? The guest bedroom is no longer stuffy and is more-or-less the same temp as every other room. So much win!
> use thermal tape (red tuck tape) to reseal that insulation
Is this 3M Construction Seaming Tape 8087CW similar enough?
I did find (red Tuck Tape on Amazon](https://smile.amazon.com/Tuck-Tape-Construction-Grade-Sheathing/dp/B01N6L7FK0) - looks to be Canadian made.
I use this one
its not ultra high def or anything, but has been super handy, owned for 13 mos so far.
Yeah ours are face bailed so 4 nails on each board every 16 inches. Most of ours were in good shape and weren't popping up. We just went around and hammered them down a little more. I went through and scraped out every single individual groove, so if you do that it would also be a good time to nail them down since you're going over every single inch of the floors.
How big are your gaps? We had some big ones where boards were a little cupped and had previously been filled so we used wood filler on those. The rest we left as is (it's tongue and groove and only a few had separated so much you could actually see light coming through) and we'll revisit in the summer. The boards will expand then so some gaps might not actually be an issue. The ones that are we're still debating on what to do with them, we might fill them with rope, or we might use this product:
https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B004GH7ALK/ref=cm_sw_r_awdo_navT_g_MZ2W81GA6K51QKWHTNPH
It's out of stock right now I guess but hopefully when it's we need it it'll be back lol, or we'll find something similar if we choose to go that route.
The gaps that are so big that you can see light through (it's actually often due to the tongue part snapping off in our case) we're planning on filling from below.
That could be very cool! You're thinking for the floor? There's so many great hexagonal tile designs out there and so hard to choose!
I like the exposed pipe system idea for the shower!
I saw someone else on reddit recommend https://www.homestyler.com/, found it way more intuitive to use then something like sketchup (although probably because its more limited)
I used these and they look like actual gas lamps.
CPPSLEE LED Flame Light Bulbs, 4 Modes Fire Light Bulbs, E26 Base Flame Bulb with Gravity Sensor, Flickering Light Bulbs, Outdoor/Indoor/Home Decoration(Yellow, 2 PCS) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B077P5BTCY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_R7KHRBY722SVYY38MRXN?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
It is vented! It’s this unit: mcBon range hood
I had to sacrifice that cabinet for the motor and ductwork.
Thank you! The green tiles are actually painted shiplap boards.
The mirror is this from Amazon. It’s also heated so it doesn’t fog up when you take a hot shower!
We bought some like these
They have roller balls but the shape is oval rather than teardrop so they’re looser on the rod
Unfortunately, I don't know of such a sub (I looked a while ago). The sub antiquefurniture looks pretty much dead, though you can try to put some life in it in the future.
Maybe googling for examples like this or books like this will help you narrow down what time periods you'd like to focus on first.
I've scraped a ton of paint around my house (trim, windows, siding, etc) and this is the best kind of tool I've found
(Just an example, not a product or store recommendation)
You can find reproductions of the pattern for cheaper. Amazon has it in stock.
Vintage Hardware also has a reproduction, albeit more expensive than Amazon’s. But it also has matching door plates and knobs.
If you are in a winter location right now, let the gaps be. They might swell during the summer when their is more moisture in the air. As for squeaks. You have some options. IF you can access the floors from underneath (like in a basement or cellar); you can add shims to the underside of the boards. This might take two people, one to walk and squeak and the other to shim and then test it to make sure the shims are working.
Another option is a kit that uses screws that are screwed in from the top, and then are broken off so they rest below the surface of the floor.
Here are some options. They mention using graphite (I feel like it never lasts)
Another option is to enjoy your nightingale floors.
http://www.openculture.com/2018/11/nightingale-floors-in-japan.html
We also hung curtain rods from the ceiling. We have beautiful woodwork from top to bottom. The first floor has 12 foot ceilings and the second 11 foot.
These are the types of rods. Hang them so you can pull the rod towards your body to remove. The screw ensures they stay in place. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DB1GN2Y/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_X6M36SQS4GN58JQBMDKK
We also wanted black out an thermal curtains. These had the right height and function. Beige Antique Brass Grommet Top Thermal Insulated Blackout Curtain 52 Inch Wide X 64 Inch Length Pair https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CMFMK9A/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_DYA4EAZ7J5909TZFNNY0?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Our whole house humidifier is brand new, but still can’t keep up. We use evaporative humidifiers. This Vornado pumps out the most humidity and has the largest tanks: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00O0WOO74/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_api_glt_fabc_XRZ87CD5ZP1VME1123TS. We just use a water conditioner with plain tap water. Using distilled water gets old quick.
It is an awesome tome of old window restoration. I've tackled a few window projects with it so far and it has been indispensable.
https://www.amazon.com/Window-Sash-Bible-Maintaining-Restoring/dp/1505299144 Mind you, that price seems high, I think I spent half that? I would shop around first.
Oh those are simple fixes! They make some stain pens that you can get at most home improvement stores if you feel like going that route.
Varathane 347840 Wood Stain Repair Marker Kit, Assorted https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08JFTQ1DB/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_EREHTGMSCNST8639NKXN
I've heard this one is decent for the money...Vacmaster Pro 8 gallon Certified Hepa Filtration Wet/Dry Vac
I don't know the brand. They're just the 'old school' style lights. Big bulbs, not LED...
Not this brand but this style https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09B4L2CRV/ref=sspa_dk_detail_1?psc=1&pd_rd_i=B09B4L2CRV&pd_rd_w=mqP6i&pf_rd_p=887084a2-5c34-4113-a4f8-b7947847c308&pd_rd_wg=CedBP&pf_rd_r=2KTKTK92Z4BC8VPMWW8R&pd_rd_r=c6c8e4cb-f01f-4ad5-a637-b1e94...
If you can solve the door gap issue with a shower head replacement. You might be able to solve for the dripping onto the floor from the door by replacing the bottom gasket with something like this that catches the water that is dripping from the door and redirects it back to the shower. Coastal Shower Doors 927NKIT Paragon Series Replacement Drip Rail Kit in Brushed Nickel https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009YKY0M6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_8RWVGAZ3JV80BVVDXNBJ?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
These are the ones you need, called end-cutting pliers or end nippers:
Crescent 10" Heavy-Duty End Cutting Nipper Pliers - GG010HNN https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07K77V3DY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_Y14EYYV0BRTK7ESG1P9J?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
The others that have been mentioned aren’t designed for this particular application.
https://imgur.com/gallery/SxDBlu1
I use the 10-inch for pulling nails of this size.
I've soundproofed my living room against my crappy neighbours and their crappy TV that's on 24/7. I now get perfect silence.
Sticking things on the wall doesn't work. It does nothing - zip, zilch, nada, nil, nought - except swallow your money and make your room ugly.
To make any real difference, you need to isolate the wall. This generally means erecting a stud wall in front of the existing wall, with an air-gap between, and loading the stud wall with mass and different materials (sound waves travelling through a number of different materials will lose energy (loudness) quicker than travelling through a uniform material of the same thickness), and then making everything air-tight around the edges. You're going to lose, minimum, 20cm of your room.
If you can't do that, then there's absolutely no point in bothering with the sound-proofing route.
On the plus side, not all white noise is created equal: https://mynoise.net/
Photoshop has a function that removes all the shadows in a photo at once. It's really amazing.
helpx.adobe.com/photoshop/using/adjust-shadow-highlight-detail.html
And I just looked and Photopea (which is free and runs in your browser) has the same exact function. And that works great too. Try it on a random photo, it all happens on your computer.
No, it's pretty much all flat and level, within reason. The joists or subfloor have changed enough over the years that each room has about a dozen places where there is just enough flex that something can rub and squeak when I (or a particularly fat cat) walk across it. I think it's mostly subfloor squeaking against the nails, but once in a while I find a squeak between joists that seems to be either edges of subfloor planks rubbing, or maybe something in the floor to subfloor interface.
I'd suggest trying the screws first, they are cheap, fast, and effective. The main drawback is that it leaves holes in the floor, you have to be careful not to scratch the finish (it's best to put a piece of paper or tape over the area where you are working), and it's possible for the ring next to the snap point to catch on the wood and pull up a chip from the surface.
The holes are about 1/8" inch (3mm) across, so once they are filled and sealed they may not be visible (my floors have lots of marks already, so the new marks aren't very easy to pick out unless you already know where to look).
I use this and this. There is another style where the threaded section is spaced wider apart (you can see it in the video above), but the way my floors are set up I didn't need those.
You can find instructional videos covering how to use them from the maker.
If you want to minimize the number of holes you drill in the floor you'll need a high quality stud finder. I just drill a hole in the floor near the squeak, then insert a large 'C' shaped piece of wire so I can feel where the joists are, then drill again over the joist. Once I know where one is I can measure to find the rest. I usually only end up with one or two extra holes.
I try to avoid Amazon when I can, but they have these perfect solar dusk-to-dawn candles. They're perfect for this SoulBay 6pcs Solar Power Tea... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08B7Z8CGQ?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
I strongly recommend coating it with this product: Everbrite Spray. I used this spray on a copper lantern that I refinished last year. It has been in direct sun and exposed to the elements and has not changed at all in appearance.
We ran cords down the wall using these and painted them the same color as the wall: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Legrand-Wiremold-CordMate-Cord-Cover-Kit-White-C110/100024732. They come in different sizes depending on how many and how thick your cords are. We then put the bundle of cords in one of these: https://smile.amazon.com/DMoose-Cable-Management-Organizer-Entertainment/dp/B07ZN458SS/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?crid=2S2EZO7G7OJXT&keywords=moose%2Bbox&qid=1637690914&qsid=138-0634260-5815957&sprefix=moose%2Bbox%2Caps%2C123&sr=8-3&sr... The stupid looking sticker is easy to peel off...
I literally broke a window trying to use a razor blade and a scraper tool. Don’t me me: Tool https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00QL57QSM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_ZNW47SKFKPK229Q1XDYN?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
In the UK, there's the ever-useful The Victorian House Manual, which details a lot of the ins and outs of Victorian construction.
I'm not sure how much would be relevant to US home-building methods and traditions, though.
This worked wonders for me: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B083SG7ZT8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_1K6ERKH5CMXB1DSZ02ZA?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
That being said, expect a total mess if you pull them off the wall. While most of my plaster is in fine shape, everything behind the baseboards was basically dust and fell apart when I took them off. You’ll need to be prepared for plaster repair if you want to get them back on correctly.
>History of victorian construction. I found this book hugely interesting regarding the building of Victorian houses. It also explains some of the layout and technology of the times. "The Victorian Country House" by Mark Ghirouard The Victorian Country House
>
>https://www.amazon.com/dp/0300034725/ref=cm\_sw\_r\_apan\_glt\_fabc\_T1KDKZG6ZMTGTFK6SB42
Wow, thank you for all the tips, I will most definitely check out the books and the community! Thanks :)
Congratulations!! I don't have any you tube channels to recommend as I am a light user. However, check out old home renovation in Saint Louis. There is a huge amount of victorian era brick homes. Missouri has one of the more robust historic preservation and tax credit programs in the US. There is a huge community around rehabbing.
For big items I hire out. No need for me to muck up what needs a professional touch. To give myself an idea of what I am dealing with I purchased the following books:
How to on renovation. Sadly mostly covers wood construction, but good to know for interior projects. "Renovating Old Houses" by George Nash Renovating Old Houses https://www.amazon.com/dp/0942391659/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_1NXYJ078JKVRF2K6686J?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
History of victorian construction. I found this book hugely interesting regarding the building of Victorian houses. It also explains some of the layout and technology of the times. "The Victorian Country House" by Mark Ghirouard The Victorian Country House https://www.amazon.com/dp/0300034725/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_T1KDKZG6ZMTGTFK6SB42
The problem with the newer ones is that they often tend to err on the side of metric, and the original ones are imperial.
If you hit up Facebook marketplace, there are still numpties tearing these floors out and selling them for not very much money. I got a couple of crates full for ~£20-30. If they're dirty and still have the original mortar/grouting, you can dump them in a bucket of mortar stain remover:
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Everbuild-Remover-Building-Products-Treatments/dp/B00AHUR1T6
When we remodeled our 1920s craftsman bungalow's kitchen, I did a google image search for "1920s craftsman bungalow kitchen" and then pinned all the pictures I liked and used that for ideas. I know that's super basic advice but it really did help me come up with a cohesive vision.
Two books that were useful to me were Bungalow Details Interior and Bungalow Kitchens.
For a quick fix, add some extra magnets. I like these because they are self-adhesive, so you don't have to worry about them falling off every time you move the curtain.
I had this problem on the bathroom door in my 1929 home. The product below worked really well. Packed it into all the old holes really tightly and it’s been holding with new screws for three years now. Probably the most used door in the house.
J-B Weld 8257 KwikWood Wood Repair Epoxy Putty Stick- 3.5 inch, Tan https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002NJDAJY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_2WG2YKQ09WPH4V0KKMR7?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I would use these to hold the curtain to the tub.
In my house as in a lot of older houses, there were no closets originally. My dad used to have a house with open and wide closets like that. He didn’t like curtains and wouldn’t pay for real bi-fold doors, so I put up some cheap vinyl accordion doors. (Similar to this but from the local hardware) Two of them can cover a pretty wide area and the magnets hook together in the middle. They’re light and easy to put up, but not super durable. They were fine for a household of adults, but I can see kids just breaking or half ripping them down.
You can try these adjustable screens.
I think you just put them up when you open the window and take them out when you close them.
I use one of these to seal off my basement drain when we have flooding. it's easy to put in and take out, and cheaper than a check valve.
I bought mine off Amazon Similar to this: https://www.amazon.com/dailymall-Picture-Moulding-Exhibition-Billboards/dp/B07XWV85L5/ref=mp_s_a_1_7?crid=1Y51E41UM6TGF&dchild=1&keywords=picture+rail+hooks&qid=1630306402&sprefix=picture+rail+&sr=8-7
Then used regular frame wire to hang pictures.
I see, I couldn’t tell if it was just paint chips.
I don’t know if this is the best solution but this is what I would use: DAP 12242 Painters Putty Pt Raw... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000BPIOCU?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Once its dry you can sand it down for a smoother look.
I’ve also seen my father in law use caulk in my door trims to close the gaps before painting.
I like the push button switch, tho maybe try some egg and dart push button wall plates, I did that in my 1900s NYC apartment, the egg and dart made it looked better but you don’t have to since the gold looks good too, here is the link also not sure if you know what finish you want. I have this isnide my house. https://www.amazon.com/Rubbed-Bronze-Single-Button-Switch/dp/B01M225TEF/ref=sr_1_3?dchild=1&keywords=Egg+and+dart+push+button+wall+plate&qid=1629994299&sr=8-3
Yes - The replacement push buttons are completely up to modern NEC