Think about using complimentary, triadic, or analogous colors. Each of these color palettes would be a different vibe, but it's backed by theory. So if you're having a hard time choosing a color, this may help.
Mess around with Adobe Color and I bet you can find something that is cool.
If someone doesn't know basic color correction, and you just told someone to do an ACES workflow, you just sent them down a path of Confusion, Destruction, Dissolution and Death..
ACES is the wrong answer..
Color Correction Handbook is the right one..
I'm writing an app, which may be useful for video grading, and I would appreciate if you let me know what you think about it.
Download: PhotoMatch
As long as the monitor is capable of displaying the correct color, then yes.
I recommend using DisplayCal for the calibration. It is so much better than what my probe came with.
Also works on Linux.
Lite has no resolution constraints for source footage, only for output, and the output resolution constraint is now UHD (3840x2160).
and you went through all these?
https://www.blackmagicdesign.com/products/fusion/training
given how new the addition of Fusion is and how small the market, i can imagine there's not a whole ton of training out there...
I realize you're looking to push a more cyan tone than a blue one. But take a look at this tutorial and give DaVinci a go, the Lite version is free after all.
I use DisplayCal , because it is more advanced than what came with my calibrator, and it will make LUT’s for Resolve. (If you have a Blackmagic output card)
I have the gimped versioned the i1Display Pro, called ColorMunki Display. While its sensor is the same, it is half the speed, and most 3rd party things don’t work with it. DisplayCal does.
Do yourself a favor and pay the extra $55 for the i1Display Pro,
That one is the RECORDER, as in an input card.
You want this card: Blackmagic Design DeckLink Mini Monitor 4K PCIe Playback Card, 6G-SDI
It works great! Same price. Works with HDR also.
could you recommend a decent one less than $800 USD?
as an app PhotoMatch, or directly in-browser
Load a reference video frame (it doesn't load video yet), create and export the LUT you need
There are a couple of algorithms I'm working on, and would like to hear what you think of them.
"Movie-Style" slider is injecting color-contrast. "Skin-Tones" is smoothing the skin-tones.
To download the generated LUT, click on the "cloud download" icon.
Run the software directly online: kinoseed.com Android app: Photo Match
Thank you for your interest everybody, I will upload a video of the scratches. It's come to my attention that the actual LCD is inside of an overlay, let me know if that's true, because if that's the case, then the LCD should be untouched.
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How about a height adjustable mobile TV stand?
I use this in my temporary grading suite space right now to hold my Flanders XM55. Way better than expected.
>X1 display pro
I noticed that amazon has a slightly newer model: https://www.amazon.com/Calibrite-ColorChecker-Display-Plus-CCDIS3PL/dp/B0973R6Q8K/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=x-rite%2Bcalibrator&qid=1669326396&s=electronics&sprefix=x%2Brite%2B%2Celectronics%2C185&sr=1-2&ufe=app_do%3Aamzn1.fos.08f69ac3-fd3d-4b88-bca2-8997e41410bb&th=1#customerReviews
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X-Rite i1Display Pro
If you want to use it as a color display “properly” it needs to be fed out of a decklink card and not via the video card. That would mean doing so via hdmi and a card like the decklink mini monitor 4k.
The monitor is 10-bit capable as seen here. Don’t mind the added “8-bits + FRC” comment, it will still show 10-bits when tested with a pattern/gradient. (I reread my comment from a year ago and see most of this, but just in case!).
If you’re using it as a GUI display it won’t be reliable for only video color the way we pipeline things through Davinci in that way so to speak. That setup assumes your color display is only being used as a reference monitor and that’s it. If you want to use it for GUI/photo/video, it’s still a good monitor, but you may need to dig into video card settings to make sure you’re getting 10-bit (could also test by finding a 10-bit gradient, and looking at that).
Typing quickly while on my phone. Happy to connect further on all this if you like!
Yeah - you made the right choice.
Those filters are fine to use if you’re doing day to day computer stuff. Email, web browsing, etc - but trying to use that for color critical work means you’re gonna have a bad time.
If you really feel you need it, there’s always f.lux but I’d probably avoid it because it’s easy to forget you’re running it if you’ve been staring at a screen all day.
I use a tide optics 1/4 diffuser to great effect. Softens the image and makes lights (like candle light) glow in a dreamy way. Recommended. Will be using it to shoot the memory sequences of my short film this weekend.
Thanks, I was confused because the UC*G*-K is much much more expensive
https://www.amazon.com/ASUS-Display-Professional-Monitor-PA32UCG-K/dp/B08ZC54V7C?th=1
I think Amazon has second edition for 45 on sale right now paper back.
Color Correction Handbook: Professional Techniques for Video and Cinema (Digital Video & Audio Editing Courses) https://www.amazon.com/dp/0321929667/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_ZTVHRSWM4D03ZB6KBG67
Amazon has both the Handbook and the Look Book available on Kindle for $46 and $28, respectively. https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00H9E3L4M/
But yes, it's a shame about the price for a hard copy of the Look Book. I had it on my wishlist forever and then one day it went out of stock and literally the next day copies were $750 (actually, I feel like they were $900 or something.) I can only guess that there was some algorithm that caused it to shoot up like that and I can almost guarantee that those sellers have not sold one copy in the last five years.
I'm hoping Van Hurkman will release a 2nd edition of the Look Book but so far that hasn't happened.
Also, I recommend setting your output CST node to SRGB since you’re likely making things for the web. If you can afford it, buy a color calibrator for your monitor. A lot of people will tell you to buy a $5000+ monitor or else it’s all a waste of time, but that isn’t correct if you’re working on content for the web. Most decent monitors can show accurate SRGB if you simply calibrate them. This is the calibration unit I use, along with Displaycal. Calibrite ColorChecker Display Pro (CCDIS3) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0973JMM4S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_DTWR78NX8Z7F5AHE6SBS
You can download the videos in hight quality and the projects files here:
https://www.blackmagicdesign.com/products/davinciresolve/training/#color
I will try them tomorrow ^.^
there you go mate (here you can download all the pdfs of the different parts of the program): https://www.blackmagicdesign.com/products/davinciresolve/training
ps: hey bro! I'm stupid as well, gimme five!!
i actually use frame.io for the studio I work at and it's great but I agree with others here, it's actually pretty advanced and most clients don't actually utilize the full potential. It works really well for teams though. When I freelance on my own I use screenlight.tv, it's basic and a lot cheaper and still offers timecoded notes.
I haven’t taken the FXPHD courses, however I’ve done a few classes in person with Warren Eagles at AbleCine and they are top notch. So I’d have no problems recommending FXPHD.
That said, you should definitely work your way through the Davinci Resolve Basic Training books that BMD has been available for free.
Resolve 16 is still super new so the books haven’t been updated to reflect that yet, but they will cover a huge chunk of what you’ll see in 16 and then you can find a wide array of videos on YouTube to cover the changes (like the new Cut workspace).
Hi! I worked as a film coordinator for a festival, and we had some films submitted via MyAirBridge, it can send files up to 50GB for free, so you could try that? There are other services like that as well, Google drive is really cheap nowadays.
My team uses Quire
It's quite similar to Trello, but free. Some of the features: Kanban board, offline syncing, deadlines, priorities, reminders...etc
You can also check other task management softwares that provide gantt charts.
Alright, I got home and am about to head out, here's a few suggestions for the next time you shoot:
-This is a prime example of where setting your white balance IMMEDIATELY after setting your exposure is important. If you're not shooting in RAW, then making big changes in white balance after the fact can make footage fall apart in post.
-While it would have held up better in RAW, you still would have been fighting color casts. In this scene, you appear to have used mostly natural lighting. The problem is there's a lot of angular reflections going on bringing the yellows in from the walls and tables. The magenta top light also is causing more headaches than it should be. This kind of scene is very similar to using backlight gels; you can throw other colors around, but you need to have a daylight-balanced key light out front to keep the colors on your subjects consistent and controllable. It wouldn't take much, a single somewhat soft light to fill in your faces and torsos would be enough to overpower the yellow reflections from below, and the light wouldn't really need to be that strong. A good, cheap setup could be a standard light bulb-mount umbrella holder with a cheap umbrella and a daylight temp bulb on a cheap light stand, which would prob be around $50-60 tops, way less if you scrounge a bit. Something like this on a light stand:
https://smile.amazon.com/LIMO-STUDIO-LIMOSTUDIO-Ultra-Compact-Professional/dp/B08J244YXP
So something like this? Blackmagic Design DeckLink Mini Recorder 4K PCIe Capture Card https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M126X2N/ref=cm_sw_r_em_apa_i_M1paGbBDV2VWZ
It's only $195!! How come so cheap? What's the catch?
How do I use it? So I'll need this thing will not drive my GUI? I'll need to have both my regular gpu and the Decklink connected to my monitor at the same time? The specs don't specify it's 10-bit though...
Or, would I be better off with something like this in this range? https://www.amazon.com/BenQ-Photographer-SW271-3840x2160-Calibration/dp/B076CTL3BD?ref_=ast_sto_dp
yes, I read about the difference.
you mean this
https://www.amazon.com/Blackmagic-Design-DeckLink-Mini-Monitor/dp/B00CDIVL2S
will it be installed on Gigabyte B450 AORUS ELITE Socket AM4?
There are a lot of flavors of Decklink cards.
At a bare minimum you’d need this guy: Decklink Mini Monitor but there are also 4K versions, as well as versions with multiple SDI or HDMI ports.
I generally use a Decklink Duo 2 on my DIT cart because it has 4 SDI ports and I can configure each of them to be an input OR an output which can be REALLY handy at times.
I’d probably suggest you get the 4K version of the mini monitor just because it’s only about $45 more expensive but you’re future proofing yourself.
this?https://www.amazon.com/Blackmagic-Design-DeckLink-Recorder-Capture/dp/B00CDIXCSO
Is it worth it if I will be working on projects that need a jack of all trades editor who also colors? the projects will be for videos captured by DSLR/mirrorless cameras like sony A7S, bmpcc, canon 5d, gh5s...etc, and will be released on the web.
Hi - I have the sam set up, had the same problem but using a 2017 iMac:
iMac Thundebolt 3 → T3/T2 adapter → BM UltraStudio Mini Monitor and then HDMI → BenQ 270c. This DID NOT work initially... after much futzing around, I searched a lot on the Black Magic forums & Lift Gamma Gain. Synopsis: Since the BenQ does not have a "pro" input like SDI, we must use the HDMI inputs out of Mini Monitor & into BenQ. BUT... somehow this combo of MiniMonitor & BenQ HDMI input has/ can have HDCP / copyright protection issues kick in. I was advised to try a cheap HDMI splitter that can circumvent this & so strip the HDCP in the process... (seems sellers are a tad cagey about admitting this quasi legal ability to strip HDCP). Certainly a PIA but here's one I found that worked for me - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004F9LVXC/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 And before you order make sure you have the xtra cable you now need.
Good luck!
Also finally got a chance to watch the video. So I would say this still it the best corrected shot this guy has in this video. Most of the time he has too must orange in the skin tones. But basically what he does is decontrast, bring down shadows, qualify skin tones add blue to shadows and orange to highlights and maybe desaturate black and whites.
Edit: I know this book is super expensive but it is so good for teaching these techniques (https://www.amazon.com/Color-Correction-Look-Book-Techniques/dp/0321988183)
It depends on your grading space, but I would go with one of the LG OLED tv’s. I use a 55” C9. The B8 can be picked up for about $1200, depending on where you are.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DRRYS1W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_fLNNDb9M0TZ9J
You would need a some kind of Decklink and an SDI to HDMI converter. You would also need to calibrate it. Again, depending on where you are, you should hire someone to do this. It’s not an unreasonable cost and you only need to do it once or twice a year. It’s better to hire someone who knows what they’re doing rather than to spend a lot of money on equipment and attempt to figure it out yourself.
It's a tool you can use as an app PhotoMatch, or directly in-browser
Load a reference video frame (it doesn't load video yet), create the LUT you need, and then use it in your video software.
Another question for you: how do you feel about BenQ displays? Reading posts around and about there seems to be an emerging consensus that they’re the best bet in terms of offering something approaching pro quality at a sub-$1K price point. Or at least that’s what my not-utterly-exhaustive meander through these forms suggests.
This one looks promising, for instance:
Thoughts? I’m assuming I’d still have to use a calibration tool with some regularity...
For starters, I think this book has helped me a lot: Color Correction Handbook: Professional Techniques for Video and Cinema (2nd Edition) (Digital Video & Audio Editing Courses) https://www.amazon.com/dp/0321929667/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_RYrXCbSPFBN3C
... And I found this book super helpful as well, it's less about grading and look development and more about the technical bits: (full disclaimer, I haven't finished it, it was at my school's library so I was reading it in bursts)
Real World Color Management (2nd Edition) https://www.amazon.com/dp/0321267222/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_u0rXCbKEE8JQE
Thank you for the advice. Since you started with an LG monitor do you have an opinion on either of these two models:
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LG 27" Screen LED-lit Monitor (27UD68-P)
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I haven't used an intensity or what I am about to link, but they are the exact same thing as the PCIe card, but for USB and Thunderbolt.
I would recommend this if you dont need the extra connections of the Intensity.
Get a monitor hood. This is the first one I found, but there are many to choose from, and they all work in roughly the same way: https://www.amazon.com/Compushade-Monitor-Hood-Fits-15-22In/dp/B001IMJB86
Flanders definitely crushes SmallHD. SmallHD is a plastic toy in comparison (seriously).
Also, for the sake of clarity - you don’t want an HDMI to SDI adapter.
That just pushes the same uncalibrated signal from your GPU. That has its uses, but its the wrong sort of signal for a reference display.
What you actually need is more along the lines of an UltraStudio Mini Monitor.
Or an UltraStudio 4K if you need input AND output in the same device. (More expensive but does it all with only a single Thunderbolt port).
Sort of.
Let me preface this by saying color management is a huge topic with many books dedicated to it. So do your research.
Again, I’ll say you’re going to need an IO device to push a signal to that reference display (I recommend this one: MiniMonitor.
You should absolutely use something like the i1 to calibrate your UI Display, but until you’ve got a proper IO device pushing a signal to a reference display... there’s sort of no point.
That said, the i1 Display Pro you recommended is a good start but it has issues.
First - the software it comes with is really designed for photography. It’ll spit out an ICC profile - which is not what you need here. You need a 3D calibration LUT - which means different software entirely.
Out of the box, it IS an excellent option for calibrating your UI Display.
You MAY be able to use DisplayCal for that (I own Flanders displays, and I live in Atlanta so I haven’t had to give this again because don’t have to fuss with calibration - I can just drive to their office and they do it for free #spoiled) - but more likely you’ll need something along the lines of LightSpace or CALMan ($$$)
Secondly - a colorimeter on its own isn’t adequate for calibrating proper reference displays so if you upgrade you’ll need to plan on hiring someone to calibrate your grading suite for you once a year - or if you go Flanders, plan to ship them your displays once a year at least for calibration.
Having said all that, by even having this conversation you’re putting more thought into it than a lot of people do so you’re already ahead of the game.
Ok, now, in the meantime, can I use this to calibrate my current display? Will that even help?
I'll need this anyway to calibrate my pro display when I buy it, correct? So I should get this now anyway?
https://www.amazon.com/X-Rite-i1Display-Pro-Display-Calibration/dp/B0055MBQOW?th=1
$170 will not get you a colour accurate monitor the cheapest you can get would be around $450. For $320 you can get an adobe rgp acurate monitor (for print). Or if you are going really cheap but want something that you can kind of trust then your best bet will be a dell ultrasharp, but that will still be a bit over $200.
> https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01EJ9J14I/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
That looks neat. What are the cons? It would be awesome to have something double as a directors monitor.
It's a paid membership but check out https://mixinglight.com which is where I go. A much more fluff free approach.
Check out Color Correction Handbook by Alexis Van Hurkman which even includes practice footage. http://www.amazon.co.uk/Color-Correction-Handbook-Professional-Techniques/dp/0321713117
Can you explain how my signal goes from my PC to the Blackmagic converter? Does the signal go from my GPU to the converter through HDMI and them from the converter to my monitor through SDI? Or do I connect the Blackmagic card through PCI-e and it'll have an SDI output on the rear?
EDIT: So say I use this box for my broadcast conversion. Would it go GPU(HDMI-out) > Converter(HDMI-in) > Converter(SDI-out) > Monitor(SDI-in)?
If you are really looking to take that next step I would recommend picking up Alexis Van Hurkman's The Color Correction Handbook. The kindle version is only about $30 and it comes with a link to download clips and stills to practice on. So you read a chapter, and have a dozen or so clips chosen that specifically work on the skills discussed in the chapter.