What are /r/fpvracing's favorite Products & Services?

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I would rather save $500 and get this ready to fly racer for a beginner flyer. It also has 20A ESCs with quality motors, and includes a battery.

Do you want the serious answer or the answer that might set your house on fire?

The serious answer is go buy one of these cables: https://smile.amazon.com/Mirthobby-Battery-Charger-Adapter-Converter/dp/B082R6ND73. I hate that this cable exists, but this is the world we live in.

If you're into electrical fires, plug the blades from the alligator connectors (upper right in your picture) into the deans-to-JST connector (lower left). Then attach the alligator clips to the two pins inside the XT60 connector (lower right). Do not let the metal parts of the alligator clips touch each other. Plug the other end of the XT60 into your charger. Plug the JST end of the deans-to-JST connector into the battery and find out if you did a good job of keeping the wires apart.

It's been done before, but I think if you had two cameras on two different FPV freq's, I bet you could use some fancy capture cards on a computer on the ground to combine the feeds into something the oculus could handle.

Latency from this process would be your biggest hurdle.

Edit: Ill elaborate a bit further. The reason FPV cameras still use analog is to minimize latency as much as they can. Doing any sort of digital encoding of the camera feed before beaming it to your face will only increase that time. So any digital middleman will cause some latency and complexity (read: monies).

If you've got an android phone, you can connect to your quad with the Speedybee app and an OTG cable. Way easier for tuning than to carry your laptop around.

I missed Banggood.com, but you probably already know about it. Not necessarily cheaper than stuff that you can find in the EU, but it doesn't hurt to look. And they somehow manage to evade customs, so you don't have to worry about that.

And the one thing that took me the longest time is that (if you go for a Taranis) you have to be aware that there's a difference in EU and non-EU firmware on the Taranis and the receivers and they don't like talking to each other if the firmware doesn't match. Not complicated to upgrade/change the firmware, just annoying.

Matek f405 CTR

5 UARTS, decent BEC, good layout, AIO, LED, buzzer, OSD, also have i2c and a baro onboard, available on BG, mpu6000 gyro, Blackbox SD card slot, comes with vibration dampers and enlarged mounting holes

It apparently needs non-inversion hacks for FRsky though, I don't know about that as I am using Flit10 Flysky and a T8SG TX.

https://www.banggood.com/Matek-Systems-BetaFlight-F405-AIO-Flight-Controller-Built-in-PDB-5V-2A-9V-2A-Dual-BEC-for-RC-FPV-Racing-Drone-p-1165338.html

Edit: added damping comment

> i have not included a camera and video transmitter yet

You have a video transmitter (the Eachine TX526) listed as your "receiver".

Your flight controller has the least powerful CPU supported by current flight software, and it will not be supported much longer as software gets more sophisticated. I suggest something based on an F4 CPU, like the Cicada 30A AIO.

I second this build. It's solid, and the videos take you through step by step. Alternatively, you could try a pre-built thing like the Nighthawk pro, though I have have no idea how good this particular quad is

/r/multicopterbuilds for more info

1. I would argue there isn't a mid-tier for goggles. It's Box Style (inexpensive) and Goggle Style (expensive). A good box is the Eachine VR D2.

2. Yes. There are kits with all the parts and you put it together. They are rare, but exist.

3. I don't know any off the top of my head that are worth considering.

4. Build it from scratch. That way when you eventually crash it, you will have a clue how to fix it and get back into the air faster.

5. Latency is an issue with cellphones, but you could probably use something like this: Eachine-ROTG01

6. The go-to camera is any of the HS1177 600VTL types. Foxeer and Runcam are the most popular.

7. For an OSD with telemetry/artificial horizon, I recommend getting a flight controller that is compatible with Betaflight's OSD function.

Head over the builds sub and make a post using the template and/or check out the build guides they have.

I bought these and the connector is too small for the plug in on the camera. Is this the cable you’re talking about? 20 Sets Mini Micro Sh 1.0 Jst 4-Pin Connector Plug Male with 150mm Cable & Female https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01DUC1M2O/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_HPRVM6N9WRTH39HDJPHF?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

Gonna copy what I wrote in another thread:

Something like below is a godsend. It’s a super sturdy soldering holder thing with a lighted magnifying glass. I was skeptical about magnifying glasses until I used one. Be amazed how much dexterity you actually have when you use one.

There are five things that make good soldering of small stuff:

• good iron
• quality solder
• study, non wobbly holder thing
• magnifying glass
• good lighting

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07V6CWRQ3

Oh yeah and get little snippy snip things. They are very precise and I use them all the time to trim crap. For example after I tin a wire I’ll snippy snip them with this to make them small.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FZPDG1K

Unfortunately (maybe fortunately?) a lot of good quality soldering comes from having the right equipment.

Yeah those are cold joints and could come loose at some point. I will say I am a decent solderer and I had issues soldering the signal ground on the BF board.

Flux is magic and you need to order some ASAP. For stuff like pads and holes I like a liquid flux pen. Amazon

I've had good luck with GoldBat batteries from Amazon. They're a competitive weight, price and seem to perform well. I haven't used a whole lot of other batteries though (only a Tattu 1300mah 4s 75c).

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I've dropped 1 of the 4 batteries after a couple months, which is probably my fault for over discharging.

having tested those apps, they are still missing some (least important) functionality, but they are still great.

More than good enough that I won't carry my 10" notebook with me anymore to adjust settings in the field. Just got me a cheap cable from usb-c to the micro-USB-Port of my FC, plug both sides in - app opens automatically and I can configure stuff.

I could remove the need for that cable by using one of these speedybee-bluetooth-thingies - but why would I?

If you want to adjust your values without USB, I recommend getting a Bluetooth module (example) and an Android phone with EZ-GUI.

Yeah! I got this! EMAX Tinyhawk 2 II RTF Kit FPV... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B083PZZSR9?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

I am planing on upgrading the headset and the radio controller as I go but this was the easiest at the time.

It is a bad cell. You could turn it into a 3s pack or discard it. Salt water is one way but I prefer uxcell Fixed Type 100W Watt 2 Ohm... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0087YGC8A?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share. You have to have some 12/24 gauge wire and a female xt60 connector but it'll kill a battery within an hour or 2. Then straight in the trash. Environmentally safe. Clip off the balance lead and main leads for spare parts and move on.

Hey all! Looking to buy some batteries that would work with my Nazgul Evoque F5 (6S analog), came across these on amazon, 6s 1300mah 90C, a two pack for 18 dollars, is there a disadvantage I'm not seeing that makes this price so low? Thanks! https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07XDHCP71/ref=ewc_pr_img_1?smid=AEXGS89RF8KCG&th=1

https://www.amazon.ca/Racing-Practical-Lightweight-Airplane-Quadcopter/dp/B09GB5X9SC/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?crid=236T6T0VJWXS4&keywords=5+inch+racing+drone&qid=1659412295&sprefix=5+inch+racin+ddrone%2Caps%2C129&sr=8-3

I've had my eye on this bad boy. I'm looking to build my next quad around this style. But I have half a mind to just buy it haha...

Those live wires in the first picture have me nervous. Make sure those crimp terminals don’t touch. Also you can just get a crimp set and it comes with all the balance plug housings you’ll ever need.

Hilitchi 560Pcs 2.54mm 6/7 / 8/9 Pin housing and Female Pin Head Connector Adapter Plug Set Perfectly Compatible with JST-XHP https://www.amazon.com/dp/B019ATRH0M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_G2268F0HPYKN3Q3V00TV?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

Hey thanks man! These are hexagonal exercise training rings. These were from Decathalon IIRC but Amazon sells em as well. https://us.amazon.com/Unlimited-Potential-Hexagonal-Training-Basketball/dp/B01N3NMEE4

I cut the nets out of these and that works great. Not quite 5 ft though.

Sport Squad Portable Soccer Goal Net Set - Set of Two 4' Pop Up Training Soccer Goals with Compact Carrying Case - Easy Assembly and Compact Storage - Great for Kids and Adults https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071V8KKDL/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_6XX8N9KA78N1WK20DSV5?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

I bought that AiO camera+TX and it's a full 120°. It might be more than enough but does run hot. You can find a stand alone RX screen for about $100

But if I may suggest, going with one of these multi-camera + LCD monitor combo's. I use it for our travel trailer (wireless version) and it can display multiple cameras at the same time. Giving you more than 160° FOV. There are also wired versions so you don't have to worry about wireless frequency issues (2.4Ghz or 5.8Ghz). Just need a 12/24v power source.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07PNGNJ9M

Just buy a small camera, with a built in vtx, feed it 5v, and display the analog output on your choice of display. The cameras are reliable enough to bash into the ground on a drone, so using some two sided tape to hold it to the rig should be no issue. Remember they get warm, so you may want to fasten it mechanically somehow.

Wolfwhoop WT02-D 600TVL Ultra... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XYTV18M

This may suit your needs, at least to explore what might work at a cheap price.

1S LiPo Charging Adapter Cable 6 in 1

ey nice timing on the megathread:

I've been borrowing my brother's emax RTF setup to learn on and I want to get a radio that I can use with it (so frsky) and liftoff - what's the recommendation for babby's first real radio in 2022? I've been pointed at the taranis x9 lite and radiomaster tx16s hall for the higher end option; is that accurate in your opinion?

is mode1/mode2 pure personal preference? I've been flying with my throttle on the left stick, which I'm 99% sure makes it mode 2

Yeah my brother has the DJI fpv drone so I might try that. I'm also wondering if maybe I bought a non compatible battery or something? I have the GEPRC cinelog 25 and these are the batteries I bought.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B085C6V437/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

+1 on the soccer goals

I bought a pair like this (found it cheaper in a local sports shop)

https://www.amazon.de/-/en/gp/product/B0758GPYRJ/ref=ewc_pr_img_1?smid=A3JWKAKR8XB7XF&psc=1

Cut the net out, disassembled them, and got 4 gates. Bought aluminium pipe and cut it up. Now I can just shove the small pipe pieces into the dirt, and put the goal in (to not destroy the poles for the goals). The bright side is, you can also use them as flags, becouse they stand upright, and they are very portable.

I started with the ev800d a year or 2 ago but eventually upgraded. Assuming your looking for a real cheap boost I would upgrade both Antenne. The default is a bad patch and clover omni Antenne that isn't that good. A cheap patch I still use is this. RCmall 5.8GHz Triple Feed Patch Antenna, High Gain 9.4dBi Directional Circularly Polarized LHCP RHCP Antenna with 50ohm SMA Load Terminator for FPV Racing Drone Eachine EC800D https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09NDDJ7D2/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_i_7314D54QS1K2DMSXZ319?psc=1 Then you can look up for a Lolipop omni antenna that uses sma or rp-sma (I forget what the ev800d uses) Also equip your drone with a good omni antenna like a Lolipop. Switching to a Lolipop gave me better range than the built in patch antenna. Finally you can upgrade your vtx later on if you don't get satisfactory results.

Upgrading your drone antenna and 2 goggle antennas will run you about 50-60$ but will have a major impact in performance.

I am looking to build my first drone and have done some research on different components but have a few questions on transmitters. I am looking to do a build to get the most flight time and range so I can fly far. I am not super concerned about speed but I do want to use a FVP set up with goggles.

1. Can I use a FS i6 type transmitter for long range stuff?
2. Would these be a decent FPV goggle setup? including the long range stuff I want to do
3. I have a 3D printer would it be okay to skip on a frame and just print one?

I have some other questions about flight controllers and power break out boards and batteries but this is what I'm most confused about. Thanks in advance for any help and I know long range and flight time doesn't mean 1 hour or 50 miles but I would like something that is better fore exploring.

With more research my goal is now to setup an FPV sim. Currently my understanding is that the minimum requirement for that is a controller?

If that is the case should I just buy what seems to be a high-end controller? https://www.racedayquads.com/products/dji-fpv-remote-controller-mode-2 or a noob kit https://www.amazon.com/EMAX-Tinyhawk-Goggles-Controller-Beginners/dp/B083PZZSR9

https://www.banggood.com/URUAV-Analog-Receiver-Adapter-V2-Enclosure-Mount-for-DJI-Digital-FPV-Goggles-p-1680626.html?cur_warehouse=CN&ID=6287830&rmmds=search

This is the one I have and should imitate the fatshark form. I never mounted it though, but bought it when the V3.1 had not been out afaik.

https://www.banggood.com/URUAV-V3_0-V3_0-PLUS-Metal-Adapter-Mounting-Case-for-DJI-FPV-Goggles-p-1700958.html?cur_warehouse=CN&rmmds=search

This one claims to work with both V3 and V3.1 according to the photos.

New list:

Can you recommend me a FC with a PDB in it?

Got the Frame (Was my first original choice and it has arms that can be bought): HSKRC XL5 5"

Motor Option: Emax ECO Series 2207 2400kv 3-4s Brushless (Could not find 2450kv would 2400kv be a major difference?)

As for the ESCS I cannot find BLHELI32 on bangood. (I am a absolute noob)

nice.

ya i like these

https://www.amazon.com/Bat-safe-Lipo-Lithium-Battery-Charging-Safe/dp/B07DXJBRBB/ref=sr_1_6?crid=TSFV17U5P9FY&keywords=batt+box&qid=1642545391&sprefix=batt+box%2Caps%2C186&sr=8-6

Looking to get into getting a racing drone, I am drawn to the Walkera F210 I know its an older drone but the reviews for it still are strong 5 years later. In my search I came across the deal below.

At this price point is it worth getting?

https://www.amazon.ca/Walkera-Professional-Quadcopter-Goggle4-Transmitter/dp/B01JL0Z1O4/ref=sr\_1\_1?crid=KBOB7O5FH9XW&keywords=5.8G+Goggle4+FPV+Glasses&qid=1641420625&s=electronics&sprefix=5+8g+goggle4+fpv+glasses%2Celectronics%2C...

Well, I'm not experienced in FPV. But i'm going to practice A LOT before and when I have it. I'm sure i'll be able to manage. The question is what items do I SPECIFICALLY need for this?

https://www.banggood.com/IFlight-Nazgul5-227mm-4S-5-Inch-FPV-Racing-Drone-BNFPNP-SucceX-E-F4-Caddx-Ratel-Camera-45A-BLheli_S-ESC-2207-2750KV-Motor-p-1529741.html?rmmds=search&fbclid=IwAR2qF_7LSMHZ8UiNHqVqtF-04TuYBlI9IPrjbcoJPL_xKfzwx9ntt-JsXeQ&ID=532208&cur_warehouse=CN

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- Which receiver do I pick in that link^ ??

- FrSky Taranis Q X7 Transmitter

- EV800D goggles

- 1500 mah 4s battery

- SKYRC iMAX B6AC V2 Professional Balance Charger

- GoPro mount

- Anything else I need to start flying it?

Exactly. Grand scale epic shots is what i'm going for. So could you tell me more about what I can expect from the battery time and range limit? Also which receiver do I pick in this link? https://www.banggood.com/IFlight-Nazgul5-227mm-4S-5-Inch-FPV-Racing-Drone-BNFPNP-SucceX-E-F4-Caddx-Ratel-Camera-45A-BLheli_S-ESC-2207-2750KV-Motor-p-1529741.html?rmmds=search&fbclid=IwAR2qF_7LSMHZ8UiNHqVqtF-04TuYBlI9IPrjbcoJPL_xKfzwx9ntt-JsXeQ...

Besides this I was thinking frsky transmitter, ev300d goggles, 1500 mah battery and charger.. What do you think about that?

Just practising my own soldering, i've busted at least two 4in1's worth £50-60... First i used lead free on a board.. Dumb idea and that later came back to haunt me once i finally wired the motors up.

Went back to my backup 4in1 and pulled off the gold contact..

Now i put a fresh 4in1 esc in (another £60) and i've finally got to where i need to start beta flight testing.

This hobby is dangerous for your wallet.
Friends around me who are super excited to see my quad get in the air just do not understand how daunting it can be to make sure everything is safely wired up and programmed right.

My personal tips to anyone kind enough to read through my rambling;

• Get a smoke stopper with fuses.
  
• Buy a practise soldering board.
  
• Never use lead free solder. (imo)
  
• Remember that your "build time" also includes researching/tutorials.
  
• Invest in solid tools; Tip tinner, multimeter (learn how to use), quality soldering iron with different tips, copper braid (removal of solder) and FLUX.
  
• Get a fire extinguisher + lipo charging bag.
  

Also you're not officially allowed to fly unless you've watched at least 6 hours of Joshua Bardwell <3

Does anyone know where I can buy something to charge my EV800D goggles? I left my charger at home whilst traveling and don't have time to wait for the official charger sold by Eachine to arrive. I can't seem to find anything with a 2.5mm*1.0mm plug anywhere...

I have a gopro mount ziptied on top of the quad. It does add a little weight, I only add the camera when I'm filming something.

I'd seriously consider saving yourself some time and money and get this:

http://www.gearbest.com/multi-rotor-parts/pp_401603.html?currency=AUD&amp;gclid=Cj0KEQjw4MK_BRC1n6KTtezikbIBEiQA872hYS9En9NCtIVMjYgoXt7JlzF5xxx0b4ce1Jb9_bIxmaQaAgMb8P8HAQ

Maybe replace the FC and radio down the line, everything else is pretty rock solid.

I used a butane soldering iron for my first few builds. That being said, a good quality soldering setup makes things much more enjoyable. I bought this one. its only $20 more expensive than the one you're looking at, and its 75 Watts. I've been very happy with it.

I bought This Radio and This cable To connect to the PC and run Velocidrone. and have had no issues.

That pack seems cool X220S RTF no ?

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If it's work with my FPV screen it could be nice

maybe this?

I'm a huge fan of your work, which has been very informative for someone who is new to intermediately experienced in this hobby.

What ESC's are you using? Is there any benefit in using the DYS XM Series (F396) with the lower looptime?

Also, it appears that dRonin has support for my BrainFPV F4 board & Multishot. Have you had the time to test the difference between an F3 Betaflight setup and a dRonin with an F4 FC?

We aren't near as strict in the states. I believe 2.4ghz and 5.8ghz (most popular) are good to go. Here's a map that has known 100% no fly zones: https://www.mapbox.com/drone/no-fly/?embed=true#5/41.951/-102.700

I just created this spreadsheet of items for sale if anybody wants to add any items to it, just PM me. I'll add the link to a stickied post in this subreddit and in the sidebar later today.

Yup. I got these as replacements (20Pcs 2.4G IPEX Receiver Antenna,... https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B07X5XD4NR?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share) they are working bu I feel like they are much longer then the original which is a little annoying but they work fine ish.

I don't rly like the reciever, I got roped into the Spektrum ecosystem over 7 years ago when I started flying rc airplanes at my local flying field. I have the dx6. I find the range is lacking for a 5 inch quad, I often have to hold up my transmitter up over my head otherwise my rssi is shit. I would like to upgrade to a tx16s at some point. And maybe then get one of the high power long range system like the full TBS crossfire. I have recently started playing with ardupilot so that would be cool.

Something like this...

Limited-time deal: Jackery Portable Power Station Explorer 240, 240Wh Backup Lithium Battery, 110V/200W Pure Sine Wave AC Outlet, Solar Generator (Solar Panel Not Included) for Outdoors Camping Travel Hunting Emergency https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07D29QNMJ/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_dl_PADMP2VN0ZM0YQH6PH2C

would this board have OSD? https://www.amazon.com/FPVDrone-Version-Controller-CleanFlight-Firmware/dp/B078WRVWPN/ref=sr_1_24?crid=PA0X9IBZMJHU&amp;dchild=1&amp;keywords=naze+32+rev+6&amp;qid=1610855256&amp;sprefix=naze+32+rev%2Caps%2C213&amp;sr=8-24

I am working with recycled parts here and don't know a ton about them

This fits all my quad tools, solder, charger, lipos, 3x Tiny Hawks, 1(maybe 2)quads on the inside, FatShark HDOs, X-Lite. Holds everything feels brand new and is very water resistant.

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It's also only 35 bucks on amazon.

$28 USD on Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/CADeN-Professional-Mirrorless-Waterproof-Accessories/dp/B07L68MRQL/ref=sr_1_3?dchild=1&amp;keywords=camera+bag&amp;qid=1597714660&amp;sr=8-3

Thanks! Ive been looking at ~$40 mechanical keyboards on amazon and currently have these two in my cart:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B079HTZQYV

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01M0QEYR4

EDIT - I just looked at the comments for that amazon link, and it looks like that plastic is for securing the nut. Leaving the post for future lurkers.

So I recently assembled my first quad and I got a little confused when it came to installing the props. When I installed one of my props onto the M5 screw and tighten down the nut it was not securing the prop well. My first thought was to get some nylon washers to pad the space, so that's what I did. So after my first hover, I decided to land it down to check how it was doing and upon landing my props hit the ground, unscrewing the nut, and sending my props flying. So I decided to take a closer look at the nuts, I noticed there was a plastic ring at the end of the nut. Here is a nut similar to the one I have. My question is, is this plastic ring supposed to aid in the locking down the nut? It is pretty hard to screw past it, so I have not tried it, but is that what I am supposed to do?

This is another option I almost got this one but it was out of stock at the time elechawk FPV Racing Drone Quadcopter Backpack Carry Case Bag Tool Box RC Plane Fixed Wing Comparable with Betaflight https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07FBKV6PT/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_lQQrDbBR04KCX

Resoldering them may help. But, the wires may look fine. But, the copper wires can easily be damaged on the inside without damaging the sheathing (plastic covering the copper wires), especially if sharply tugged on (like a crash) or kinked/pinched. So, they might work at first, or for a while, but a quick change in direction, say banking a sharp turn mid air, could move them just enough to cut out. Then, you completely lose signal and you’re SOL. It’s happened to me and, unfortunately, I had to cut the motors mid air and the drone fell about 30’, face down, on the road totally destroying the camera and shearing off flight controller components. If you have a little extra wire to work with, I’d desolder them, cut both ends off, then resolder them. But, there’s not usually a lot of extra wire there just to keep things somewhat neat. But, a box of 24 AWG silicone wire is $15-20 on Amazon.

Do you have a rough size that the camera should be? Also, how close up are you talking? That is, how far away is the subject or surface?

FPV camera's can get pretty small (look up Tiny Whoop cameras) however FPV camera's aren't typically known for their high quality, at least not the cheap ones. By high quality I mean HD which would mean higher latency which obviously in fast FPV situations you can't have a camera that takes half a second or more to send the video as you'll be in a tree before you have time to react. They can get pretty decent quality although I probably wouldn't want a doctor to be using one during surgery on me, haha.

If you are looking to just mock up an idea and not having HD is ok then an FPV camera may do the trick. Most FPV camera's come with wide angle lenses. You can get different lenses to change the field of view and can typically change the focus to get a more macro shot but YMMV of course.

As for the ability to broadcast to a TV, assuming you are using an FPV camera, you'll need to get a camera with a built in transmitter like the one I linked to above or buy a transmitter and wire it up to the camera which isn't too difficult. On the TV's side your obviously need a receiver. This is one I use for my drones which I have hooked up to a small LCD TV for letting other "ride along" when I'm flying so the can see what I see while flying. It uses an RCA cable to connect to the TV. This one may be a bit over kill for your application as you wouldn't need the diversity (dual antennas that switch back and forth between the antenna's depending on which has a better/stronger signal) however it would allow you to run two separate camera's through the same receiver to two separate TVs if that was useful.

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Hope that helps some.

Amazon

iFlight 150mm 2.4G Receiver Antenna Generation 4 RF113 (smaller) IPEX Port for Latest FrSky X4R-SB Receiver and Remote Controller (pack of 20pcs) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XGD445X/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_BXl0Cb7P08X5Q

Currently flying with Goldbat 4S from amazon and they seem to be doing well. Using Racedayquads brand for 2s and 3s packs for my tiny whoop though.

Also this is the charger I have, I use it to charge everything from my 1s tiny whoop batteries and up. It is super easy to use and comes with a power supply.

https://www.amazon.com/Tenergy-Balance-Charger-Discharger-Connectors/dp/B00466PKE0

I recommend picking up a parallel charging board but you can always do 1 at a time charging if you don't get one.

this is the one I have https://www.racedayquads.com/products/power-genius-2-in-1-parallel-charging-board-2-6s-xt30-xt60?variant=19431389200497

https://www.amazon.com/Flexible-Kitchen-Christmas-Non-waterproof-Daylight/dp/B00HSF65MC/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1543082954&amp;sr=8-7&amp;keywords=led+strip

plus a hula hoop. comes out to less than $10 a gate. Even less is you split the leds between 2 gates.

or a multi pac https://www.amazon.com/WenTop-300leds-Flexible-Controller-Kitchen/dp/B079MC16DJ/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1543082954&amp;sr=8-8&amp;keywords=led+strip

OK well I mean like something like:

https://www.amazon.ca/Air-Hogs-Official-High-Speed-Flying/dp/B01N41LVJ5/ref=sr_1_9?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1540746957&amp;sr=8-9&amp;keywords=fpv+drone

Or

https://www.amazon.ca/EACHINE-Quadcopter-Wide-angle720P-Altitude-Foldable/dp/B0776QJNS3/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1540746957&amp;sr=8-8&amp;keywords=fpv+drone

I would call myself an advanced beginner now. I bought a bunch of equipment a few weeks ago and have been flying every day. It's a lot of fun. I bought a Taranis X9D, FXT Viper goggles (great with glasses), a BetaFPV Beta65s and batteries and charger. It all cost around $550 USD. If I was going to do it over again, I would definitely not buy the Taranix X9D. It is far too complex for my needs.

Consider starting with something dirt cheap like the Furibee F36 for $20 for practice and to see if you stick with the hobby. Maybe consider a inexpensive kit like the Eachine E013 kit for $70.

Now, if you do want to spend more money to get a good setup for FPV, be aware that you will probably need to get to know Betaflight, how to load firmware and how to tweak flight controller settings. You will also need to learn your controller. Setup of these things is pretty technical.

Nope, I think I need to get a new vtx with the proper amount of pins. I’ve already found an alternative for about the same price. (as the vtx03)

Low ESR 25v (35v if youre running 6s) 450-1000uF. Something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Panasonic-FR-1000uF-Electrolytic-Capacitor/dp/B00T6PDLBU

check ebay honestly, there's packs of 10 you can get cheap there.

Thanks for the info! So something like this?

https://www.amazon.com/YoCoo-Supply-Filter-Transmitter-Quadcopter/dp/B01KZHGWRW

I'm going to try and directly solder it first just to see the result. If there is some noise I'll definitely order a filter.

Thanks for the info! So something like this?

https://www.amazon.com/YoCoo-Supply-Filter-Transmitter-Quadcopter/dp/B01KZHGWRW

I'm going to try and directly solder it first just to see the result. If there is some noise I'll definitely order a filter.

I use these for my hero 4. I don't have a session and have never taken one apart. The amazon kit appears to have the lens, a replacement gasket, and metal perimeter. I was looking for something similar for the session. I imagine something could be 3d-printed to absorb some impact with minimal light reflection so it maintains clarity.

Having a hell of a time trying to figure out getting connected to my PC with this cable and the fs-i6 controller.. looks like i need drivers for Win 7 but can't find anything online. Any suggestions?

something like this right? --- https://www.amazon.com/Sunkee-Connectors-Battery-Female-20-Pack/dp/B00GNX3SJS/ (male and female connectors) I'd solder a male connector to the leads on the power cable right? I don't have any here, and I'm sure I cant get them locally. They're cheap enough to overnight for $3 extra on Amazon.

Even better? -> https://www.maniacshobby.com/deans-ultra-plug-male-2.html

/u/Chulaluk ^ so much this. i picked up a set of M3x6mm & 8mm with drive head of 2.5mm and it makes a world of difference. The larger drive head is SO much better.

Also, i have me a set of Neewer and they are awesome, and inexpensive.

hmmm, thanks for the input. which 4s batteries would you reccomend?

i've heard these are pretty good. https://www.amazon.com/Tattu-Battery-1550mAh-Airplane-Drones/dp/B013I9S89E/ref=sr_1_6?s=toys-and-games&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1491323559&amp;sr=1-6&amp;keywords=4s+lipo

also, what mAh is reccomended and how many cells?

I've been doing research for the past 3 months before finally purchasing the Wizard. At one point I was looking at the falcon, but, it has some very mixed reviews. And, from what everyone was telling me the Wizard had better components overall. At the end it came down to either the Wizard or the Diatone Tyrant S. I ended up choosing the wizard because of availability. If you haven't checked out the Tyrant S, you should. That thing rips! UAVFutures has a pretty awesome review of it on youtube.

Bottom line: Wizard for budget and if you want it NOW. Tyrant S if you want an upgrade from the wizard and you're willing to wait for it to come back in stock. If you end up with the Tyrant, keep in mind that it is VERY low profile and a lot of your typical receivers won't fit on it (unless you bottom mount the battery). I would suggest the FrSky XSR if you get the Tyrant (or really any quad for the matter).

NOTE: If you get the Wizard, I would also suggest, at the least, going ahead and grabbing yourself a couple decent antennas for your video transmission (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01M9IER0E/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1). And if you're feeling frisky - go ahead and grab yourself a RunCam Swift 2.

ANOTHER NOTE: I asked about the Wizard vs the Falcon... https://www.reddit.com/r/fpvracing/comments/5vqk4e/eachine_wizard_220_vs_eachine_falcon_250/?st=j0mtukww&amp;sh=fef94f29

Here's the tape I was referring to. It's pretty good stuff.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HWROO7E/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_p2pKybHH6A56G

As I mentioned, heat shrink looks better but this stuff is excellent for when you can't get heat shrink over a component.

Would this be good? I need all of the part of drone racing, so it seems if I got think all I would need it some extra props, batteries, battery charger, and a fpv viewer? Any recommendations for those? (obviously I would use the recommended props).

https://www.amazon.com/X-Speed-Quadcopter-Controller-Radiolink-Transmitter/dp/B015ST5UPM/ref=sr_1_1?s=toys-and-games&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1483929496&amp;sr=1-1-spons&amp;keywords=racing+drone&amp;psc=1

It's not the same, largely because the throttle stick always wants to spring back to center.

I picked up a USB "transmitter" for $10 today to use with Freerider and other sims:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000WJS3WQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1

I bought mine from a small hobby shop near me for about $160 which is cheap apparently but they gave me a deal cause I buy from them a lot. I've seen the same pair on amazon for $199. They work like a charm and I use them for my two other quads. Also I just got the aluminum and carbon fiber frame from their site for my Tiny Whoop and I gotta say it looks pretty great.

this one. It has 4.5/5 stars on amazon and is very popular. There's definitely a whole lot of variance but what I'm noticing is that every 1st and 3rd cell is around 3.78-3.82V and every 2nd and 4th cell is around 3.90-3.97V.

Thank you very much for the information. Yes, the Easycap actually is a generic brand for devices with different chips, all the info can be found here.

According to some forums, the best chip is the STK1160 and there are several brands which manufacture their devices with this chip. Since it is very hard to find information about the chips I will have to try until I find the correct one. I just purchased this one, I will tell you later if it works.

Which camera system did you use in your setup? did you notice any ghosting or blur?

Good call. I just ordered one of these LCD voltage gauges will install with a momentary switch so I can see my power. I haven't gotten it low enough to cut out.

$30.00. Tons of fun to fly, a great cheap introduction, and a great way to learn the basics. There's a learning curve, you're going to crash, so why not use something easily replaceable.

I use this and it works great. Heats up super fast, you can shrink tubing and reflow components, and even supply test voltages. It's been going strong for a couple years now.

I got one of these DSLR backpacks from amazon:

http://www.amazon.com/Evecase-Camera-Laptop-Travel-Backpack/dp/B00WQTLB0G?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;redirect=true&amp;ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00

Amazing, bottom has a removable bag for lipos. Top part has moveable velcro soft walls for DSLR lenses that I use for my taranis, goggles, and props. Can strap at least 4 quads to the outside. Even the tripod thing on the side can be used to carry your chair. Best I could find after hours of searching.

Since there is very little consumer interest in a product like this, nearly all of the available products are geared towards the professional video market, and are super expensive.

The simplest way to do it as a consumer would be to feed the video into a PC and use software to stack it up. For example, this video capture interface is around $35:

http://www.amazon.com/Diamond-VC500-Touch-Capture-Device/dp/B000VM60I8/ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1449258258&amp;sr=1-2&amp;keywords=video+capture+card

And you might be able to use something like the iSpy open source security camera software to view the feeds live.

https://www.ispyconnect.com/

The iffy part here is that I'm not 100% sure how many of those capture devices you can run at the same time, and whether they will be compatible with iSpy.

This came up in another discussion form on this topic found here... http://www.meetup.com/Cville-FPV/messages/boards/thread/49425825

Reviews are decent, specs are good, and price is also good.

http://www.amazon.com/Jovision-300Q-Camera-Surveillance-CloudSee/dp/B00DNBCLUU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1449063900&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=4CH+USB+CCTV

First, forget the SmartProPoPlus, it's just a terrible route to interface the DX6i, and bite the bullet and get this USB adapter.

Instead of cranking up Expo, turn down your rates on the TX and leave Expo at something more reasonable, like try 20-30 first. With 100% expo, you'll have dead spots in the center and extremely sensitive edges of the stick, which is a really weird feeling to control. Try lowering rates to something like 70 and expo 20, then tweak it from there. If you feel it's too sensitive, tweak expo. If you feel like you're not able to roll/flip the quad fast enough, turn up rate a bit.

Go for 4S 1800 mah. Like these

You can get beginner gear for surprisingly cheap. Check out the Hubsan H107D. It costs under $200 for the drone, charger, and controller with built in live transmitting FPV monitor. The best thing is these are very durable when the prop guards are on, and they have very little mass so it's hard to cause damage with them (Still wouldn't want to take one to the face, though). It's hard to get a sense of scale in the pictures, but these drones have about a 6"x6" foot print. It's small enough that you can fly it inside a gym or classroom.

All seem fine to me, just maybe a little overpriced for what they really are... I got this set of 10 and they are holding up just fine.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BL0YGS0/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_PjeiwbM4W4QJD

So do all LiPo batteries have the same connector type but the number of pins vary?

looking at this checker on Amazon: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003Y6E6IE?redirect=true&amp;ref_=s9_cxhsh_co_g21_i1

Would I be able to test my little Hubsan batteries with this?

Interesting. The guide doesn't clarify that the Hubsan X4 is meant for practicing line of sight flying. Also, it links to the version that includes a camera when, if you aren't gonna use it, the one that doesn't have the camera is a few bucks cheaper.

Would the following be a better buy, then?

• Spektrum Teleporter V4 Video Headset
• Nano QX FPV Bind-N-Fly Camera Drone with SAFE® Technology without Headset

It's not too bad, as a sim it's more of a game but if you are limited to Android, it's cool.

There are other sims as well, while Leo's sim lacks Multirotors, the helis will help a great deal for flying multis however.

https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=leofs.android.free&amp;hl=en

The desktop sims are the best as you can use your real controller and most have Multis these days, RealFlight is very good but not the cheapest.