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I've been using a lead pointer like this (https://www.amazon.com/Faber-Castell-Faber-Castell-Tk-Lead-Sharpener-Faber-Castell/dp/B000KJVCVC/ref=sr_1_34?dchild=1&keywords=lead+pointer&link_code=qs&qid=1624031677&sourceid=Mozilla-search&sr=8-34) on plastic rods.
Using this link as an example mostly, because you can find tons of options for this. But yeah, I use cheap sewing pins! You just chop off most of the length and use the tops. Works like a charm.
This looks to be the same and is only 10.
Thank you! Hot Wheels narrow front and HW buggy back, I bent the rear axle to give it that over sprung look.
The window mesh was a small stainless steel automotive hose clamp, the wormgear kind, I had laying around the garage, it was just the right width to cover the sides. 😂
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08HJMC5F8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_i_1EVP4VCF8GC7EDPPG89V
Zvezda Models War Elephants https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000C0ZC6A/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_TS8TB8M95E8E74FNC94Z
War Elephant model. He’s the one on the top left on the box art. Bought for D&D but the scale of the people is too small.
Painted his armor to look like a sleeveless jean jacket and painted a skull on the back of it. Cut off the spear rough with snips so it looks like he’s throwing a rock.
Saved his legs, going to have one kicking out a hole in some mesh in a coffin car.
I haven't heard of using hydrogen peroxide, I'm going to look that up. I mostly used Vallejo's rust and chipping effects paint kit.
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00GZRYRNS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
So, I asked for advice and got scared off by the price tag lol. I ordered this
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B082SP4WSB/ref=cm_sw_r_u_apa_fabc_kLD9FbXDB6KQK
Which seems like a deal, but we'll have to see. My luck with taking the cheap way has not always panned out, but I have three little girls that will get some new toys if not lol. I'll post my thoughts. Thanks again for your help
Old cars waiting for something get tossed in a shoebox. Once completed they live on a shelf.
I have a Really Useful Box that keeps my dice, book and templates handy, with a tray insert. When transporting the cars they fit in the tray and get cushioned with a bit of paper towel.
Box - Amazon link, they can be found cheaper elsewhere.
Tray insert - Amazon link, again they can be found cheaper elsewhere.
Thanks, I got it from Amazon!
Cut up a splatter guard, kinda like this (but you could totally find this cheaper in a grocery store):
I have two sets of these.
They seem to be just right IMO. The down side is that you can't make a complete circle or oval with them.
I found a Hot Wheels one for you on Amazon. As others have already posted on here, it should be easy enough to build/make your own tanker trailer. It should be easy enough to find a tractor cab. I'm in the Big Rig competition, too, so I bid you good luck!
https://www.amazon.com/DieCast-Hotwheels-Tracks-Chrome-Yellow/dp/B0979NJ9VD/ref=sr\_1\_26?crid=22FCDWV2S9I9I&keywords=1%2F64+scale+big+rig+tanker&qid=1657033031&sprefix=1%2F64+scale+big+rig+tanker%2Caps%2C114&sr=8-26
I use purposely large WWII weapons for the base of a lot of my builds.
1/35 scale to be exact. The cars aren't to scale with each other, so just let it go and make it look cool.
Here's what I've been using: Activa Products 12 by 24-Inch Wire Mesh .
Takes paint well and easy to work with.
Yep! I use Oyumaru Molding Clay. It is clear, reusable,easy and fairly cheap. It comes in little bricks that you place in hot water. It then becomes pliable. I press it onto the piece that I want to replicate, let it cool and then use putty to cast it. I've even made two piece molds from the stuff.
Oh, not at all. Cars are made of pot-metal and can be pretty easily cut with a hacksaw, like one of these badboys:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08H5SJ6SY?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2_dt_b_product_details
As for cutting the bottom-plates off, yeah a drill is probably the best way to go. What's your hobby budget like per week/month/year, or as a one-time figure?
I made this because I wanted a bit more in a card. I've also been homebrewing some things so wanted some blank cards, that I could write in pen to fill in the important stuff (hull) So here's my version of it.
Here's the figma link also: https://www.figma.com/file/dOwlhdX65KkubJ0chGrT8k/Gaslands-Cards-V.2.2?node-id=0%3A1
2 Pack Stainless Steel Woven Wire Mesh SS304 TORISSieve Cooking Wire Mesh Replacements Cabinets Wire Mesh Stainless Steel Pest Proofing Air Brick Vent Cover(300x300mm)) https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07VVY1T64/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_DRC5Z3P3P4F2E9ZY7CSQ?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Bought this a while ago. Pretty pricey, and strong so hard to work with but looks good yeah.
Scale on guns can just be a matter of the right gun. I find that Tamiya makes a great set of 1/35 scale stuff that I'm getting a lot of use out of.
Yes! I've converted the model from the game into a 3d printable car. You can find it here if you want it: https://cults3d.com/en/3d-model/game/hl2-muscle-car-jalopy
Whether you use regular window screen, or metal mesh, cratch away the paint where you're going to glue it. I would say Loctite is fine but I would get a non-gel style and use a super glue accelerator.
There's a pump bottle style, but I like the aerosol can because it seems like a better value.
Polystyrene sheets (plasticard) with diamond plate texture should be your staple.
Otherwise just about anything will do. You can go for a redneck look with with balsa wood, or popsicle sticks to make plywood etc.
But some simple, thick card stock (like old greeting cards) would be fine too.
My advice for evade/combat dice is to buy a bulk amount of colored d6s.
I made evade dice too, but they're really more of a pain than anything. If you have groups of color coded dice you can roll everything all at once and it's really nice.
Not sure the scale of the RC car but these might work, just be careful they’re very sharp! https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08FRNZ9CL/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_XP036625J6DEKB2RZDR1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Mine is a blasted wasteland with ruined bits of town strewn around. I use the light brown mat as a base and match up th bases of my terrain with it
Check this out at Amazon Wasteland Dirt Track Wargaming – 36x36 Inch Tabletop Mat (13+) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07D3DRW9W/ref=cm_sw_r_u_apa_fabc_5CKZH2QZ56FZV435FDDM?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I second the previous respondent's shoebox-of-scatter approach. That makes it easy to decide last minute to do Scavenger Party instead of a race, since they need really different layouts. Also, I only play at a friend's house across town, so this makes it easy to transport.
I haven't played with Road (Refueled, p. 86) yet, but I've added two things to my kit so I can try it.
1) Rectangles of black cardstock (for areas of parking lot)
2) Four-inch PlayTape. https://www.amazon.com/PlayTape-Black-Road-30x4-Birthdays/dp/B00IX3OHIW
This is a great starter guide. Personally, I've got a Badger Patriot for an airbrush, and I'm pretty sure I got this compressor, which has been great: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07ZQM6R83/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabc_1weSFbHK7WV6A?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I used these drivers for a crew.
You can also go the route of buying 1/72 figures from amazon. For $15-20 you can buy any number of figure sets with something like 40 figures in them that will last you for a long time. One of many examples. Ninjas and Afghan insurgents look pretty multipurpose as wastelanders.
It's a very out of scale lmg from a Lego mini fig set from amazon. They're all more or less the same, and worth he money if you don't care about scale.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07RTVXTX1?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share