What are /r/gunsmithing's favorite Products & Services?

From 3.5 billion Reddit comments

A thread pitch gauge is also a worthwhile investment. Have used mine on numerous occasions when I've lost or broken a screw

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000X37XGS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc_CDTHZME57M3Y8GEDEYTB

Pitch gauge - $8.99

And Mitutoyo calipers (if you don't have a set) will last a lifetime. - $125

I like to use a brass brush... I guess it's technically bronze:

https://www.amazon.com/Hoppes-Phosphor-Bronze-Utility-Brush/dp/B000Q2DUIG/

I haven't used one on a gun, but easy out screw extractors have saved me when repairing bikes.

They are self tapping reverse threaded screw that you drive into the stripped head.

Link is for an example, not because I know that is a good version. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07GZ17QD9/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_Ga4hFbGS7CB7K

It looks like your rear sight is completely ground off. If it was still there I was going to recommend this mount.

https://smile.amazon.com/1917-Enfield-P14-Scope-Mount/dp/B00IJD6WWU/

I have their mount for my sporterized 1903A3 and it works great, but it looks like you would still need the rear sight in order to attach that scope mount I linked.

I think you're going to have to have a gunsmith drill and tap for a scope mount and just put some picatinny on there. It's already irreversibly damaged so I wouldn't feel too bad about it.

This isn't going to be a quality, heirloom tool set, but for 25 bucks you'll get a ok starter kit of punches and a non marring hammer.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B083PZ7RYN/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_G68CFbK94RDYE

You can replace each section one by one as they wear out, but this would be a bad start.

This sight pusher is junk. I bought one and it would just torque and put weird pressure in the sight and not move it.

Either spend the cash on a solid site tool: Wheeler 710905 Engineering Armorer's Handgun Sight Tool https://www.smile.amazon.com/dp/B01B3NU0U2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_YdCPBb9YRS7AD

Or, if you don’t have the dough to spend, do what the other guy referred you to - a non-marring, hammer driven sight pusher.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000VH805E/ref=twister_B08D6ZKX7R?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

Since I'm a bubba too, I got the 6.5" version of these and the grinder to take off the ends. (to make it fit)

I found they worked really well in spreading the two inside rails apart and the adjustable part kept me from overdoing it. Wish I had taken pics.

As far as the bottom part shown here I actually had to remove some material on the edges of the flat - in fact the seam near the magwell and where it wrapped around the trunion too. Some of the flats are made on some REALLY old tooling.

https://www.amazon.com/Johnson-00203-Fine-Wood-Paste/dp/B007B1NQLQ/ref=sr_1_2?crid=1UB5G1OXIA3KJ&keywords=johnson+paste+wax&qid=1670095816&sprefix=johnson+past+wax%2Caps%2C1075&sr=8-2 This is what I saw but minwax past wax will also work.

Best bet would be a brass punch set, a hammer and soft jaws (or wood) on a vise.

If you want something 'easier' this cheap and craptastic NCStar sight pusher is in your price range it works well on glock and M&P sights but did not work well on a couple Sig P320 front sights I tried with it

Im not sure it fits your use case though, its nice if you're planning on swapping out a few or fine adjusting rear sights on pistols but you will also need punches and a hammer for most dovetailed front sights and most rifles. A good vise is always a smart investment, brass punches are always nice to have around for gun work and who doesnt need a few extra ballpeen hammers of varying weight. Good luck!

Not an answer to your question but have you seen this: https://www.amazon.com/Birchwood-Casey-TS-A400L-Button-Catcher/dp/B07GBG321Z

I run one while trap shooting and it works great. Have to slide the rim of the shell to the front of the breach in order to load and unload, but I find it easier than the rubber band. Upon “ejection” the shell is held in the chamber by the rim with the plastic sticking out so no fishing around for it.

You realize you just copied stock images of these gun mats and are going to spend money making low resolution copies of them.

Amazon sells them for like 12 bucks... the first image you posted is this item

Like throw a spike wheel on the angle grinder and go to town?

https://www.amazon.com/OBA-Grinder-Shaping-Grinding-Grinders/dp/B08KR7KV8Z/ref=asc_df_B08KR7KV8Z/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=475716027523&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=15609783272464771051&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&amp...

Ez out this looks like a decent candidate for it to work

https://www.amazon.com/Irwin-Industrial-Tools-53535-Extractor/dp/B00004YOBF That's the link for the set. The small one might work as is. If it doesn't grab though use a 5/64 drill bit and drill a little bit deeper.

I use this Real Avid set. It's worked fine for me, not that I do anything intense with it, mostly scope mounting.

After removing the surface rust with any given method. Apply a formulated "Protectant". Not just any form of petroleum product. Something along these lines. https://www.amazon.com/Shooters-Choice-Prevent-Liquid-Aerosol/dp/B006HFK6OC/ref=pd\_lpo\_2?pd\_rd\_i=B006HFK6OC&psc=1

im a bike mechanic by trade , and a gun hobbyist. https://www.amazon.ca/TEKTON-2910-2-Inch-Manual-7-Piece/dp/B000NPUJYE/ref=sr_1_8?keywords=impact+screwdriver&qid=1654409587&sprefix=impact+sc%2Caps%2C114&sr=8-8 use one of these on ur tough to get out fasteners and be gentle , soft blow mallet to it they come in 3/8 and 1/2 drive , they work wonders and like trollygag said always use a thread locker or anti seize or even grease, some lube is better than no lube. never put any fastener in dry

Since you were so helpful, I might as well ask... The QD style holes in the stock should be universal right? The one that's not working is deeper before it narrows. I don't think there are different "lengths". This is what I'm using. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B091646JNP/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_XHA7KA076QEQ5RTME0PX?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

I finally broke down and bought some cheapo sight pusher on Amazon when I had a whole group of them to do. It made one of my least favorite things to deal with a total non-issue.

I would say that if you're changing out sights rarely then maybe not, but I think I paid $20 for my little aluminum homemade-looking sight pusher when it was on sale a few years ago, and it's saved me at least that amount in my time.

I don't know if it's something that I couldn't live without though.

It feels cheap. I also don't like the ergonomics of it and the fact that the gauge isn't very precise. I don't feel that you should have to guess on what setting you're using. lymanded up buying the one that Lyman makes since it cost around the same as the Vortex but goes up to 80 in/lbs.

I'm trying to attach a home made muzzle device to a barrel. It's made out of plumbing parts. Is there any reason why NPT wouldn't work?

https://www.amazon.com/2-28-Thread-Adapter-Black-Steel/dp/B09BK3LZ14/ref=mp_s_a_1_8?keywords=1%2F2-28+thread+adapter&qid=1648699032&sr=8-8

This is 1/2x28 to 3/4 for oil filters.

https://www.lowes.com/pd/B-K-3-4-in-Threaded-Male-Adapter-Bushing-Fitting/1000505553?cm_mmc=shp-_-c-_-prd-_-plb-_-ggl-_-LIA_PLB_142_Pipe-Fittings-_-1000505553-_-local-_-0-_-0&ds_rl=1286981&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIk4Xvrbvv9gIVjv7jBx1WjA9AEAQYASAB...

This is 3/4 to 1/2.

This would work right?

You seem like you understand this.

https://www.amazon.com/2-28-Thread-Adapter-Black-Steel/dp/B09BK3LZ14/ref=mp_s_a_1_8?keywords=1%2F2-28+thread+adapter&qid=1648699032&sr=8-8

This is 1/2x28 to 3/4 NPT for oil filters. Could I then convert 3/4 NPT to 1/2 NPT?

Or is 1/2 pipe not 1/2 NPT?

So there are stripped screw extraction kits you can get online, I've only had to use them in wood (and had one used on a stripped screw being removed from my ankle post-surgery, that was fun), so when it comes to using one on your rifle, I'd probably take it to an armorer tp avoid unnecessary or irreparable damage. You can try steel wool, a rubber band, or superglue as well to try and give your screwdriver more traction/friction on the screw first.

Looks damn well like M910 TPDS-T. OP, they may be training rounds but they would still have a shit ton of propellant in them if they’re live. And judging by the primers they are at least unfired. I’d avoiding fucking around with them and have your local PD come and deal with it. Just tell them you found what you believe is unexploded ordnance and let them come handle it. Here’s a dummy round that’s safe to keep as a reminder

This should be a good starting point for you

Build Your Own Laser, Phaser, Ion Ray Gun and Other Working Space Age Projects https://www.amazon.com/dp/0830606041/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_i_7A14XPD4HDE0VS3YSBPJ

Here are the pictures. https://imgur.com/a/ULU9U

Looking at everything now, the scope mount won't slide over the front sight, even with the blade removed...

Looks like I'll have to knock the front sight ramp off, and then re-solder it back on.

Silver solder is your recommendation then, gonna have to try that.

Brass brush with some CLP might do the trick. Any touch up - is this. Warm the metal before using for better results - remove all oil first too. Oxpho-Blue Professional Grade... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071GZGB8Q?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

I used this on some parts I was 3D printing. I’m not certain it would work with this type of polymer, but you can read up on it and give it a shot if the polymers it works on match up to your stuff.

Ummmmmmm, it does/did.....I saw the man Shooting it in competition. He finished 3rd in dueling tree C class

I got the ones for my shop from Amazon here is the link:

https://www.amazon.com/BookFactory-Firearms-Acquisition-Disposition-Record/dp/B003Y7OBSI/ref=pd_bxgy_img_2/134-8542021-2087257?pd_rd_w=THYLC&pf_rd_p=c64372fa-c41c-422e-990d-9e034f73989b&pf_rd_r=F0AQMFQN5KB4WMZKYMYM&pd_rd_r=b9abeed6-40b9-469e-9892-89dc7eeb3d91&pd_rd_wg=Uda6Q&pd_rd_i=B003Y7OBSI&psc=1

>smooth single cut flat file

I dont have any files. Would something like this work? Also, could you please take a look at the post? I added an additional picture based on your suggestion. Let me know if this is what you mean.

https://www.amazon.com/Nicholson-American-Pattern-Single-Rectangular/dp/B00018AD6C

Alibaba has a suprisingly good list of current tabletop engraving machines here.

I have worked on a Xenetech a lot, and it was awesome, but was also like 4k. Have you considered a laser engraver? Really good new ones can be had for sub 1k, but you lose the ability to mill/CNC. All that being said, I have yet to see a hobby CNC machine for less than $1500 that I would trust. Used will probably be the way to go if you need a mill. Hope this helps.

There are two ways: 1. Pay for YouTube Premium and you can download them from the mobile app 2. Use an online service or an installable program like 4K Downloader.

I'm not a lawyer and I assume that downloading YouTube videos for anything but personal consumption is a breach of their ToS.

To actually get a proper understanding of this, you'll probably want a book. This was one of my textbooks in school. There's a few PDFs floating around the web, especially older editions.

Something like this? Isn't that going to scratch up the barrel?

https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=https://www.amazon.com/Uncle-Mikes-Detachable-Browning-BLR/dp/B003IY3MGO&ved=2ahUKEwjrisyrs7fzAhWCKM0KHTZhAIMQFnoECAUQAQ&usg=AOvVaw2wGFXPFibfbPkByN-yOBV-

I used one if these. It was about two inches long.

Drill America - D/ASTCO31P12 #31 Cobalt Heavy Duty Split Point Stub Drill Bit (Pack of 12), D/ASTCO Series https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FX9TZMM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_CBM9JTBNH1X39DC3SH2G?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

Sure did! I had to definitely take more time than i would’ve if i dropped like 300$ on a drill press but it worked perfectly. I still have it actually for my next AR build. This is it here

I have one of these kits: https://www.amazon.com/Dremel-4000-2-Performance-Attachments-Accessories/dp/B00LUU2XFO?th=1&psc=1

I use it less then I expected too but I agree the flex shaft attachment would be nice.

That screw should be a 5/64 allen. There have been some good suggestions on here to help you get that screw out but I I have another as a last resort to get it out. The gabit micro extractors work very well. The portion meant to drill the hole for the extractor does tend to wear quickly but I have gotten many uses out of the extractor portion. I have removed even the smallest screws from numerous guns. These things pay for themselves. Never stripped the threads on countless guns and always gets the screw out. Alden 4507P Grabit Micro Broken Bolt Extractor 4 Piece Kit - Small Bolt and Screw Remover - Made in the USA https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000Q60UOO/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_G324SSW3J3VG4ZKA10M2

On a roll pin in a part, correctly oriented for square contact between the pin, punch, and mallet, a properly-sized roll pin punch should have minimal chance of slipping from the roll pin, thanks to the nub on the end of the punch.

Second to that, for general pins, a good set of machine-ground punches like these (also available in brass) should also have minimal chance of slipping or otherwise marring the surface, again provided everything else is properly fixtured and you remember to start with the smallest hammer you have and work your way up as needed. Hammering is its own amazing art.

If you're particularly worried, the best avenue would probably be to get a couple of sticks of Delrin or UHMW and machine your own punches, which ensures you'll get exactly what you want. Proper method would be to use a lathe, but for, say, a one-off tool for a particular purpose, you could probably get away with chucking the plastic up in a drill and gently using a file and fine-grit sandpaper to achieve final size, just remember to start with the closest-to-final-size stock you can get, and accept that you won't get a properly-functioning roll pin punch no matter how hard you try, only square-end pin punches.

I have several of these brushes (you can usually find them locally at sporting goods stores). Great for cleaning but also getting that light surface rust off:

https://www.amazon.com/Hoppes-Phosphor-Bronze-Utility-Brush/dp/B000Q2DUIG

Post to /r/milsurp or /r/guns... or shoot me some pictures. I can ID it for you.

I've got the Standard Catalog of Smith & Wesson which IDs more or less every S&W ever.

The LGS may or may not have any idea what it is... generally with old stuff, local gun stores have little to no clue what they're looking at. Specialized shops will be much better at IDing old things.

The wrench comes with a small set, but there is a larger set that should have everything.

link

Just any small flat file should work. I bought a set at gun show specifically for gunsmithing. Check Amazon or even harbor freight if you have any close to you. They are around the diameter of a writing pen, maybe a tad bigger. Heres an amazon link of the same ones i have. Im new here and its making me wait 10 mins to post this apparently:

gunsmith files

I assume, the synthetic stock is on a bolt action rifle. Most bolt actions have a sling stud near the front. There are many sling stud pic rails options so you won't have to drill any holes at all. I have one on my Mossberg Patriot and it serves well.

Here is an example.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01NAOY73P/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabc_QN8C4QEARPCJ4AKHKX1J

I had a similar issue with a Ruger SP101. I found a number of videos on YouTube demonstrating various techniques. I ultimately went with 800 grit sandpaper to remove the scratches and this to make the areas I worked on match the finish of the rest of the gun. Good luck!

You will need a consistent temperature across the entire barrel for a consistent finish with oil blackening. If I harden a part I tend to quench it in oil and I have obtained the oil blackening and it is not a consistent finish I would want on a barrel so I normally remove that after tempering the metal to regain the hardness. Plus, I agree with HCompton79 that you risk screwing with the metallurgy. I've cold blued using two methods and I have had excellent success with this stuff

https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00TOZTMDS/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_jkDbGbABGFCZM?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

I cheat though and warm the parts up to about 180 - 200 degrees in a toaster oven and lather the stuff on real thick. It dries real quick with the warm parts so I keep applying as the part cools to keep it wet. Once the part cools completely I buff with steel wool (remove the oil from the steel wool before using) and repeat until you get the black you desire.

The other stuff I tried was the perma blue by birchwood casey - worked well but the oxpho-blue linked above is so much better in my opinion.

Thanks for the suggestion. I am using https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07TTQF24F/ref=ppx_od_dt_b_asin_title_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

It works good on laptop but not on my cell phone, the app doesnt work good on android. I can see some of the deposits when I just look through the barrel btw but they dont seem to affect accuracy.

You mean vernier reading.

Mitutoyo vernier calipers

Less expensive. Not as fine a reading. You MUST learn how to read them properly.

Not from what I see online.

Brown & Sharpe digital

Brown & Sharpe dial

Only $1 difference.

I think it is Sargo has some 03 receiver raw castings, you might want to start with. you will need some machine tools like a very strong drill press but a lot of the work can be done with files. All of the parts like the bolt and other internals are readily available. When you talking about modern era firearms their are some parts you need to machine, but you can get a machine shop to those functions. I don;t know of any modern cartridge cun's that were not made using some machine tools. Pedersoli sold a sharps receiver that had a lot of hand work needed and you could get a round barrel and draw file to octagon. Don't go cheap on the files buy American, Swiss, German or English. For the metal, an assortment of American cut in length from 6 to 12 in Swiss jeweler and riffler files, for wood Heavy and long rasps, rasp riffler files, a good draw knife and violin plane are also helpful. A file card is an absolute it should be one of the first things you buy. E-bay has a lot of files for sale in the make an offer category, keep them in a drawer or hang them up so they don't bang into each other. I envy your time and desire to build a handcrafted gun but use common since, (sometimes a red neck can be short of when excited) maybe look at some of frank de-hass books https://www.amazon.com/Single-Shots-Book-Rifle-Plans/dp/B000RH3WPG they have some plans and would be a good starting point. Many of the old 22's were made with a barrel being the receiver as well and are definitely in the realm of a hand made project, All of the parts could be made by hand and a old gun could be your pattern. Winchester, Remington made many as single shot bolt action, One of my favorites was the Winchester thumb trigger model my grand son and me built one together, but we did use machines for a lot of it, but it could be done with hand tools. It would be a start at any rate. Let us know how the project comes together and have fun.

I just did this, and bought some glow in the dark paint from Amazon.

https://www.amazon.com/ORIGINAL-Super-Phosphorescent-Concentrated-lasting/dp/B004K56TS8

Alternatively, instead of stacking a pic rail on top of the existing rails, you can unscrew the rails, replace them with this, and then Bingo was his name o. https://www.amazon.com/Evolution-Gun-Works-Venture-Picatinny/dp/B01G97XRAC

Surface prep
Surface prep
Surface prep

Any contamination will cause it to do what it is doing. What are you using to apply it? The swabs they make work excellent.

Heat the parts with a hair dryer as hot as they will go and rub with 0000 fine steel wool in-between each application. Make sure you clean the steel wool before you use it because it will have manufacturing oil residue in it.

[This is a gun])https://imgur.com/a/ZSXIF) I refinished with the same kit.

Wanna Bet?

https://www.amazon.com/Polyvance-5700HT-soldadora-soldador-pl%C3%A1stico/dp/B00IEX6NME/ref=asc_df_B00IEX6NME/?tag=bingshoppinga-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=&hvpos=&hvnetw=o&hvrand=&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=e&hvdev=c&amp...

Starrett

If you need roll pin punches, I have had good luck with this Wheeler roll pin punch set: https://www.amazon.com/Wheeler-110128-Master-Roll-Punch/dp/B01N4RG023

My other punches are from various sources.

I am using this Wheeler Punch set and it has not broken on me yet. but i also have not been using it to much.

First, check if it feeds manually, by charging the rifle and letting the bolt freely fly back into battery. Find old brass if you're not willing to use a live round, chamber the rifle and see if it extracts without a mag in it. Just do it for giggles. I expect it'll function just fine without the magazine, but it's important to check just to be sure.

Proceed to go to a safe area and attempt to manually feed live rounds from the mag. If this is not an option, get some dummy rounds and do it: https://www.amazon.com/Magpul-MAG215-BLK-Mag215-BLK-5-56-Dummy/dp/B006QP76CI

So, assuming it fails to charge manually, here are the potential culprits:

1. Magazines
2. Magazine release
3. Bolt catch
4. Charging handle
5. Bolt/BCG
6. Forward assist
7. Feed ramp
8. Buffer/spring/tube

The alignment/placement is off on one or more of these items if it's failing to feed manually. Go through them one by one and ensure they're up to spec.

If it charges manually, it's likely either a gas alignment issue (tube or block), or the gun needs a liberal cleaning.

I would also recommend Shotgun News Gunsmithing Projects Book available on Amazon. If nothing else it's a very fun read. Here is the Amazon Link https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/1934622540/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

How often do you shoot, and or clean them?

I use this

Along with the Hoppes' M Pro 7 line of cleaners and lubes, and as far as cloths go, just go to your local home store and get a bag of cotton rags for $10 or so. They'll last forever since you can cut the rags to the appropriate size if needed. They can leave a little lint, but nothing crazy.