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I work in a 87 year old family owned jewelry store and have for the past 6 years, we have our own jeweler and repair shop, and I have a degree in metalsmithing and the only thing I can think of, is that they might have used a tool that compresses the bands. The ring goes in the top of a die and is pressed down into the correct size, measured, then flipped and pressed down again in the die. They might have smashed it that way.. but from a solder sizing…. Sounds fishy. Ask if they compressed it. Almost any plain gold band is salvageable, and if it’s melted, ask for the ring back, take it somewhere else and have them melt the gold and reuse it for a new band. Don’t let the first place keep it. Good luck.
Edit; here’s the link of the stretcher/reducer so you can see what I’m talking about.
Ring Stretcher Reducer & Enlarger 2 in 1 Size Adjustment Tool Jewelry Making Professional Machine https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0872DXG4L/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_4NW1VPCBBTN7E57FEHHR?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
It's not that difficult to understand, a little harder to make. It's basically a simple folded link chain. Instead of hooking a link to the one next to it, you hook it to the second, third or even fourth link away.
Here's the definitive classic book on it, if you're serious.
This isn't silly or naive :) it is something important to you, and these are things that a jeweler could help you with.
The term I think you are probably looking for is "plated" rather than poured. A jeweler could put a very thin layer of gold on top of the metals; this would make them look like gold, add another layer of metal on top of them, and would allow all of the details show through. I have heard that chain is more difficult to plate than a solid object, because you have to be careful not to plate the links together. I haven't tried to plate chains myself, but I know that it is possible.
You didn't say if you were planning on wearing the quarter on the chain, or keeping them separately. If you did decide to make the quarter into a pendant, I might suggest putting a frame around it rather than drilling it. This way the quarter won't be damaged as much through wear. You could buy one online Like this one on amazon or have the jeweler make one for you.
All that said, there are a few rather blurry laws about defacing U.S. currency. Specifically it says that you cannot lower the value of a coin or bill intentionally or make it appear to be something other than what it is with malicious intent. That law shouldn't be an issue here, but some people may wonder about it a little and be hesitant to alter the coin in an official business setting. I'm not sure what you'll hear when it comes to plating the coin, but I don't really expect you to have any issues. :)
I am a little curious, if your main goal is to protect and preserve these items, why gold? Gold is pretty, valuable, and great to work with, but it is pretty soft and will wear off faster than some of the other metals you could plate it with. I only ask because you said so many times that it wasn't about the value of the gold. (though it is perfectly alright to just have a personal preference)
I carved vegetable ivory (tagua nuts) before. I bought whole nuts from eBay for a few dollars. They are great if you want to carve the entire nut into one thing, but might be a pain to carve into smaller pieces. Later on I realized you can buy sliced nuts or pieces.
Also you could consider using animal bone. Cow shine bone is not bad for carving (and you can get it at a supermarket). I've also seen slabs of bones for carving for sale on Amazon.
I believe Phil may be able to answer some questions for you. He was a great help with me!
https://www.etsy.com/uk/people/thatsbrilliant?ref=pr_profile
he frequents this sub reddit too and may comment here, but you can view his shop and talk to him via the etsy link too.
Perfect, thank you. I've found this vector symbol. Doing some more research now since I have something to go on.
Thanks!
It will get you a good finish from that . I did an experiment and will attach a photo.polish
That's just like 30 seconds of polishing with my machine
With what you're describing, grab a brand new soft toothbrush and some clear dishwashing soap (Dawn is what I like). Do a warm water scrub of each ring with the soap and water, then dry thoroughly. Buy yourself a pack of these: https://www.amazon.com/YUANBOO-Polishing-Buffing-Accessories-Manicure/dp/B09132B371/ref=sr_1_9?dchild=1&keywords=nail+polishing+4000+grit&qid=1624499854&sr=8-9
Use the 1000 grit if you have any scratches, then the 4000 grit for super duper bling, or just go straight to the 4000 grit. It's infomercial level cleanup..."I*used* to have trouble keeping my rings polished, but then I found MagiGold, the magical gold polishing tool inspired by nail technicians everywhere!"
Seriously, though. I'm a jeweler who haaaaates polishing to mirror finish and these things rock on gold. Moments to a high polish. Be sure to get that specific manufacturer/grit combo - I've tried other nail buffs with considerably lower bling results.
Thank you exactly what I needed.
Found a cheaper alternative on amazon as well:
Center Shelf Rest Clip & Rubber Cushion for Brackets to Hang Glass, Wood Or Metal Shelf, 10 Pack https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07FKXKBKD/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_ekW-BbVNK5RBA
I still use a piece of a yardstick out of habit but these are the same idea.
Go as fine as you can with the sandpaper grit. Even if it looks like it's doing next to nothing at first. Keep your piece pressed against your bench or the pin so it doesn't move when you're sanding. Keeping the stick flat all the way through the motion is more important than speed. Speed will come.
I'm happy to help.
I have this exact one with macrame sliding square knot. Those cords are very hardy and don't break easily. Tutorial to do it yourself.
I would definitely not stretch it, and I would hesitate to hammer up. I would only hammer at your risk.
Pro Tip: (for small amounts like a 1/4 size on a thick shank like this) Take a cylindrical rotary burr and evenly grind out a bit of metal on the interior of the shank, up a 1/4 and then re-polish.
I would suggest replacing instead of repairing. Or maybe even asking the seller if they would do a replacement. The piece itself is one that I've handled at a former employer who would purchase various charms in bulk to be added to the work they made. Many of the charms/pendants used at that shop are in this set on Amazon:
https://www.amazon.com/Wholesale-Pendants-Necklace-Bracelet-JIALEEY/dp/B073YKWN45/
(As an example of the type of thing you might be looking for.)
I haven't been able to find a link for that specific design, but we definitely had that specific design in stock.
A very interesting time in history. That figure could be (actually looks like he's) holding a sceptre.
Recommended reading:
Displays/ Showcases!
We're moving to a new space and have some showcases we no longer need. Very lightly used, 12 total, 10 countertop/ horizontal, 2 vertical. We're in Seattle & it is pickup only unless you're close by & then it's $50 additionally per trip we have to take to haul them to you. We've got stuff to move before we are in our new shop/ showroom so if you know anyone in the region who might make use of these please share! Thanks everyone!
Offerup: https://offerup.com/item/detail/966500913/...
Craigslist: https://seattle.craigslist.org/.../seattl.../7202238302.html
While Nitric is common enough, it's harder to source in higher concentrations in the US.
I'd start with HCl and/or H2SO4 considering it's a trip to the store to get them and they should be in high enough conc. to do the job.
I'd be cautious about using the same bath for different metals as each metal is going to vary in the reactivity series.
I'd further advocating tossing some Ti scrap into the bath for a couple days prior to using it for electropolishing as that will give the metal time to have its ions saturate the soln. Not necessary, but it should make things move smoother and reduce the chance of acid pitting the work.
Lastly link to what *should* be a good reaction vessel for this:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B017UYGOX0/?th=1
Then you will need polishing waxes. Something like this https://www.amazon.com/Drixet-Buffing-Polishing-Cutting-Compound/dp/B079X52ZG5/ref=pd_aw_fbt_img_1/131-9165364-1549051?pd_rd_w=jR8A0&pf_rd_p=f8d0bc61-829d-4d6f-b209-aa4a95865ce2&pf_rd_r=2NZNGGCT42M1AQKCPY5X&pd_rd_r=3a70a47d-a372-4f3d-8...
You could get one of these. https://www.amazon.com/Polisher-Jewelry-Polishing-Grinding-Variable/dp/B08C7Q38JX/ref=mp_s_a_1_6?dchild=1&keywords=polishing+motor+for+jewelry&qid=1624542190&sprefix=polishung+moto&sr=8-6 and then start polishing all your friends rings aswell for a small fee until it was paid off.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08LH5Y85B/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Received it a couple days ago, been using it all day. I’m extremely happy with it. Super heavy, smooth action, everything fits as it should. I don’t know what GRS could do to improve on it frankly.
The GIA thing was just the basic course they were offering for free because of the pandemic last year. It was a lot of common sense but it’s nice to have a certification from a name that’s known world wide.
As for the hydraulic press, I would recommend buying a basic 20 ton press from a tool supply store. We have something in Canada called Princess Auto, but I’m not sure where you are located. A lot of jewellers use the Bonny Doon tools which are amazing, but cost a lot of money. Sure they have a smaller footprint and you can buy tools that fit the press specifically, but I can do all that with my press and it cost me all of $120CAD which is about 10% of the price of the Bonny Doon set up. You will need to make a base plate if you go that way but I just used a pice of 3/8” steel and I’ve had zero issues. I have the added benefit of being the shop foreman of an industrial cutting facility so I can get parts laser cut for forms and plates. I’ll send you those other profiles.
Here is another excellent book. There are a couple projects that the instructions make no sense on (it feels like a few steps have been missed? I don’t know.) But it’s a good book to try to work your way through. You may need to find it on eBay, as it looks like it might not be available here, but all the info is in the link: https://www.amazon.ca/Professional-Jewelry-Making-Contemporary-Traditional/dp/1929565429
Your work is lovely! And that one piece is very nicely raised, I’m impressed! And the blobby shapes, are those bean castings? I follow a couple guys that show their step by step process photos of making wedding rings etc with just construction techniques. Want me to send you those profiles too? I’m aiming to be as precise as them, their work is incredible.
Here is a book that might interest you: https://www.amazon.ca/Hydraulic-Die-Forming-Jewelers-Metalsmiths/dp/0963583204
Here is the link. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B076TH3XFL/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_a.EHFbZSW7D9E
I will say that I'll probably be replacing it with the next size up. I haven't had time to truly test it in action but it is nice and quiet and has decent suction. I still have a bit of work to do in terms of sealing the seams to ensure that it's air tight before I know for sure. Preliminary tests are promising though.
Personally, I’d use a clear two-part epoxy and call it a day. Keep it simple.
Vigor Jeweler's Epoxy 2 Step 12.0451 - Fast Setup Clear and Colorless - Resin and Hardener https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00WISOM7E/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_QyVsFbC23TJKJ
Try Simichrome. I found that it works great on flat areas on silver. Use a soft cloth and the compound.
Simichrome 390050 All Metal Polish Tube - 1.76 oz. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002YUQ4E/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_S2d8CbHMHRMM5
In addition to the Tim McGreight book, get this book and make a handmade chain.
https://www.amazon.com/Making-Silver-Chains-Techniques-Beautiful/dp/1579901832
By the time you are finished you will be excellent at soldering. Also, spend the extra few dollars to work with silver. No point in punishing yourself.
I went through 2 lobster claws; they seem to last about 1.3 yrs.
I'm thinking about putting it on myself, as I am pretty handy and have an excellent soldering iron.
I like the box clasps (especially the ones that seem to be used on larger chains; they seem to have a fail safe latch that goes around the outside of the box) and the "locking" magnetic clasps. (there are some smaller ones with rings, but the pictures aren't large enough for me to understand the locking mechanism).
However, there seems to be a catch (pun intended) with both; I have a 2mm chain. The box clasps with a fail-safe only seem to come in much larger sizes. All the locking magnets are marketed that I've been able to find are marketed as "for leather" and don't use a ring (looks like the leather just gets glued inside it).
So is there anything like this with rings on it?
Maybe pendant wasn't the right word. It's just a container that holds the ashes and has a hole in it; I can easily switch out the necklace.
Which I've done, twice, with this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B017J1TE72/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
You can see the clasp in the images there. I just don't want to replace it with another clasp that is going to break.
The most advanced "valuation in personal property, in the gems and jewelry field" education that you can receive worldwide is through the American Society of Appraisers (You have an ASA up your way; Adrian Smith out of Scotland), www.appraisers.org. I can't remember whether or not they still have correspondence courses. The National Association of Jewelry Appraisers does have a correspondence course.
As far as education in antique and period jewelry- that's a tough one and you'll have to travel for that. The ASA offers some. You can also go to Jewelry Camp in NY, NY, offered every summer (http://www.jewelrycamp.org/).
Gemology basics can be learned with reading. Gem-A is GB's gemological course- which is top notch. If you're looking for reading, start with Richard Litticoat's book on gemology (Call the GIA bookstore for this) and Richards Wise's book (https://www.amazon.com/Secrets-Gem-Trade-Connoisseurs-Gemstones/dp/0972822321/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1500599511&sr=8-1&keywords=richard+wise+gems)
Also- join the forum on www.gemologyonline.com
I like my orca torch very much... I upgraded from using a basic propane torch attachment (https://www.amazon.com/BernzOmatic-Basic-UL2317-Pencil-Propane/dp/B00008ZA0C/) on a regular small green propane tank.
This book has a couple of pages on most every technique. There is a double sized version if you don't mind spending the extra money:
and I just found this book by the same author that I will be picking up myself:
Something like this might work (though I've never tried them myself). It's a clear rubber tube that attaches to the underside of the band to add some thickness in one area. For really cheap rings I've also wrapped thread around the band in one spot and glued it down, though that's not really a professional solution.