I believe this your part here. There might be cheaper options if you search harder.
If you are not into rebuilding the starter then you can put a non brand name on for about 35$
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What size horsepower and is it a single cylinder or v twin?
Here ya go! Hook them up to the battery and you're in business.
Now you're going to need a bluetooth speaker to play some disco tunes.
remove the bolt holding the center of the wheel on and replace with THESE no bushings or anything else should need replacing.
Are you sure about that? It does have a fuel pump and it looks like this one https://www.amazon.com/ROP-Shop-LTX1046VT-LTX1050VT-SLTX1054VT/dp/B071Z84XM1
It does feed to a solenoid that sits below the carberetor bowl. There's a wire that runs to that solenoid and I'm starting to think there could be something up with that.
#1. is it burning the oil in the sense that the exhaust smokes? or is it leaking the oil somewhere externally that you can see?
#2. have you checked the spark plug wire when the machine dies? you can insert a spark testing tool between the wire and the plug after the machine cuts out, then crank it over and see if the spark is still present. many times when a machine dies out after warming up, it is because of a failing ignition coil. if the spark is not present after the machine shuts off, you will know that the ignition coil is the issue. if a spark is present, check for its quality and color. it should be a bright blue spark. use a spark tester that incorporates an air gap, not just a kind with a bulb. i will include a link so you can see what i'm talking about.
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Please verify the information after reading my comments. We can move forward from there.
Air filter element looks to be
Per
Cover looks to be hard to find and can be seen at the 2nd link above. Even if you get the filter, affix it to the opening in pic 8 and then plug the open end that would be better than nothing. I searched Amazon and eBay for the 35986 filter cover part. There is a small airl filter gasket that you may need too.
The battery shouldn't be going dead from 2 weeks of sitting, IMO. My tractor sat for over a month this summer without needing to be used (drought), and started right up the next time.
It's possible that there is something else going on, and current is being drawn from the battery even with the key off. Or maybe there is an intermittent bad electrical connection somewhere. Checking the two big wires going to the battery is an easy place to start. The bolts holding them should be tight, and the wire connections should not be able to wiggle on the battery.
A multimeter is a very helpful tool to have available, letting you measure lots of things that you simply can't check otherwise. This one is $13 on Amazon, for instance, and would work fine. https://www.amazon.com/AstroAI-Digital-Multimeter-Voltage-Tester/dp/B01ISAMUA6/
So the connector is probably bad because the shorting clip. Pry the center out, take out the shorting spring. Then carefully remove the terminals and replace them. Or just buy a pack of terminals from the hardware store and skip the connector body. These are the proper terminals for the connector body. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00A8X35QU/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Very nice!
I swapped my tractor's (weak) incandesccent headlights for LED bulbs, which helped a bunch. Then I mounted a pair of 12V DC LED floodlights (~1200 lumen), 18W, they are pretty awesome. The absolutely blow away the LED bulbs I had installed. I suspect that some of the improvement is because the floodlights have their own reflectors, designed for the LEDs, so they have a more effective light pattern. Compared to putting LED bulbs in the stock tractor reflector assembly.
Enjoy your setup, especially as the days get shorter!
FYI, I have had this model for four years and have found that the engine is sensitive to air flow volume. The air filter has a thin foam pre-filter sleeve around it. It tears easily. Take the sleeve off and the engine will sputter.
Also this model does not come with an hours counter. I added this one.... https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B09D3X3Q2J/ It was $10 when I bought it. Nothing fancy to install. The wire just get wrapped around the sparkplug wire and it picks up the electrical pulse.
Congratulations! You will love this mower. Change the oil and spark plugs each year, keep the blades sharp, and it will be just as good 15 years from now as today.
And if you need a great deck lift to change or help remove your blades, here's an option you'll thank yourself for: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00V5HMK14
>Toro 137-4100
My advice to you, is leave the key in the switch. Taking the key in and out repeatedly isn't good for these plastic switches. Yes, be gentle with them, they are only plastic.
Without modding your mower, either by putting a push button start in, or a different starter switch. I would recommend getting this HD (heavy duty) switch.
https://www.amazon.com/Toro-137-4100-Ignition-Switch-Carabiner/dp/B07HRV9XT4
Back in the day when riding Motorcycles, we would fix or change our own tires on the road since most tire shops did not have the equipment to handle such small wheels. I always carried a Motorcycle tire kit like this...
https://www.amazon.ca/Wanheyao-Motorcycle-Levers-Changing-Protector/dp/B01MTSLP0G/
and a patch kit for the tube. You could also pump them up with a small bicycle pump. Took a while but it worked.
There's always Camelbaks. Or something like an insulated travel mug. I love my Zojirushi, admittedly, bought for coffee & the car. Stays hot or cold, and doesn't drip at all, when closed. https://www.amazon.com/Zojirushi-SM-KHE48AG-Stainless-Steel-16-Ounce/dp/B00CHOUI86
If you cant find the part or if it is probably grossly overpriced, then you can drill a hole through the old spot and replace it with something of the correct size like this....
https://www.amazon.com/Swordfish-61120-Vacuum-Connector-Assortment/dp/B07HV8CVZ8/
I realize you only need one but you might be able to find a two pack at a local Auto parts store.
Just glue in the replacement part.
I believe it’s supposed to be up towards the top right from the camera’s perspective, but even then it’ll need a low profile angled fitting. I’ve got a couple like these and they come in handy when needed, probably the inside side of the long one would be best:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08QZKDN8H/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_QY5N4Y8WRCAMAAMHCC33
That's going to be your best work around shy of taking off the tire every time you need to fill it or check the pressure. The adapters screw on the valve stem and are < $5.00 each. You take them off when you're done putting air in.
this article gives you an idea. basically avoid anything with an L in the model and honestly the D models arent a whole lot better. the x series is way better in terms of construction and reliability. just find one thats in your price range and definitely ride it! you can always post again if you have questions about a particular machine. be sure to post on /r/tractors though. that sub is much better for specific questions than this one.
This guy. They do make different patterns for the middle bolt, mine was an x shape. Oregon 598-631 Mulching Blade, Gator G5, 21 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01CEW9NZ4/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_0EMG6721V4QQMY65N31D?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I just purchased these for my lawn tractor:https://www.amazon.com/dp/B089P28WYX?ref=ppx_yo2_dt_b_product_details&th=1#:~:text=Submit-,MARASTAR%2020808-PK%20Turf%20Traction%2020x8.00-8%20Rear%20Tire%20Assembly%20Replacements%20for%20John%20Deere%20Riding%20Mowers%2C%202%20Pack,-Visit%20.... They are gonna be great for snow plowing!
Commercial landscaper here I’m been using This stuff called moterkote and it seem to be really good stuff. Hope this helps.
A good review video about it
Amazon link Motorkote MK-HL16-06 Heavy Duty Hyper Lubricant, 16-Ounce, Single https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000EG6CSO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glc_fabc_SJPGE9JFN5HVV9P0JZVS?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Depending on how you did it, "tightening" a valve may have just added a new "uncontrolled" variable to the situation, and it now may not run at all :) Valve clearances need to be set to very accurate gaps, like to between 0.004" and 0.006", as one example (not necessarily the specs for your engine). That gap is about the thickness of a typical sheet of paper.
With the gap too-small, the valve won't close fully when the engine heats up. You'll lose power, you might burn a valve seat, and/or it may not run at all. With the valve too-large, you will restrict airflow through the engine, and will sacrifice power.
That is what the flat feeler gauges are used for, like these: https://www.amazon.com/Hotop-Blades-Feeler-Imperial-Measuring/dp/B06XHXJG31/
They include a whole bunch of thin pieces of steel of very accurate thicknesses, usually in 0.001" increments. You use this to feel how large the gap is, to adjust it accurately.
And the clearances need to be set with the engine rotated to the correct position, and the piston at the proper height. You need to look up the proper procedure for setting your Kawasaki engine, as well as the valve clearance specs for it. This isn't the sort of adjustment where you can just kind of wing it, it needs to be set precisely. A torque wrench is often suggested, for properly tightening the bolts afterwards.
You could disconnect the fuel line to the carb, I suppose, and drain the carb. If you were trying to limit it to a single fuel source. I think it's a worthwhile test, albeit possibly inconclusive. If the carb is already providing way too much fuel, it still may not start. I guess you could unbolt the carb, and just let it hang down for the test, so it's not providing fuel.
You can definitely do a compression test at home, here's a $20 tester on Amazon: https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00SKSAB8U/
You just unscrew the spark plug, screw the tester into the hole, turn the choke off, and crank the engine for a few seconds. Then check the reading.
So I actually just swapped out the spindles entirely to the ones in the twin Troy Bilt machine that has a 6-point star pattern. I didn't research it specifically, but I think there's also a Cub Cadet mower with the 5-point star pattern whose spindles would be compatible as well, if you find those blades more available.
Just the spindles were something like $36 each from MTD, but I got the entire spindle assemblies from an aftermarket brand on amazon for cheaper. It doesn't look like they have them anymore, but I bought them from amazon warehouse for $14 each. I kept the stock housing, bearings, etc. and just swapped the spindle itself and kept the rest for spare parts.
Now I am running Gator G3 blades which mulch SO much better....the stock blades left rows of clippings even on like a day-5 mow, but now the gators don't leave anything, even when I wait far too long to mow.
take apart the terminals and clean them with electrical cleaner
Google Toro 20074 starter
www.amazon.com/Lumix-GC-Recoil-Starter-20074A/dp/B079SZZ6MN
buy that r&r 3 8mm or 10mm bolts and go mow
Your carb is probably all gummed up. Both a too lean and too rich fuel/air mixture can cause backfires. For the effort involved in cleaning these small carbs, go buy one of these.....
https://www.amazon.com/Kizut-Carburetor-Stratton-Replaces-Craftsman/dp/B0816GSRV9/
I really appreciate your time. I think that I got three different looking caps when I did a search for the part online and bought a third one in desperation. The one that fits the best (with the wax paper under it) is:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CNWW4KC/ref=ppx_od_dt_b_asin_title_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
It looks like it is the 799585 part. The 596250 part wasn't even close...
I have one of these, I really like it.
My metal Eagle can is also really good. But that No-Spill can is really easy to use, and is more enclosed (there's no funnel whose interior can get dirty, possibly contaminating the gas you're about to pour).
https://www.amazon.com/No-Spill-1450-5-Gallon-Poly-Compliant/dp/B000W9JN4S
https://www.amazon.com/Eagle-UI-50-FS-Galvanized-Gasoline-Capacity/dp/B00004Y75M
here is a battery powered lawn mower that might work, it is a little above 500 and it is self propelled but snapper does make simpler and cheaper versions
Its an old Craftsman but it came with the standard flat blade. I added a third party mulching blade. No idea what brand it is any more.
It looks something like this one.... https://www.amazon.ca/Maxpower-331982S-22-Inch-Universal-Mulching/dp/B000FJRS06/
The important bit is the length and center hole type. Some are just holes and some blades look like a torx screw head shape. Best thing to do is take off the existing blade and take a picture of the details.
Alright thanks. I'll look into buying a trickle charger. Any reason jump starting with a car wouldn't work?
This charger from Amazon decent? I know it's 12V, just didn't know if 750 mA was enough. Does show good for lawn mowers though.
Snapper's XD 82V and HD 48V lines of battery products are easy to use and come from a company with a lot of experience in lawn mowing equipment. This 48V mower on Amazon appears to be self-propelled and comes with a 5 amp battery and charger for $500. Maybe a good option for you. Good luck on your search! Amazon Snapper HD 48 Volt Mower
I found one on Amazon for $14.89. It looks fairly straightforward to install. It makes sense that the fault would be temperature dependent. I'll try that.
If you take off the air cleaner you can spray some gas/starter fluid in the carb and then try turning it over. If it starts then you know it's a fuel issue.
Find and remove the fuel line to the carb and pull it off. Stick it in a cup and turn the engine over. Does fuel come out? If yes, the carb float might be stuck or the jets are clogged. The carb probably needs to be disassembled and cleaned (could be a bit advanced for you). If no, check the fuel pump (its black, has 3 hoses attached to it and should be round looking).
One hose goes to the carb (the one you just took off, one comes from the tank, and one goes to the case. Take the carb one off and turn the engine over. If fuel comes out replace the fuel line you just removed. If it doesn't check to make sure the hose going to the case is hooked up/not ripped/cracked. That hose is a vacuum line and is what causes the pump to turn. Fix/replace that and try to start everything again.
If the vac line is good then either the line from the tank is clogged, the fuel filter is clogged or the pump needs to be replaced. This is what you should be looking for.
8n all honesty it might be worth it to just replace the whole fuel system. We're talking $35ish worth of parts.
My money is on a clogged/dirty carb or a broken vacuum line. If the fuel lines are super hard or cracked you should def replace them tho.
No, the one you linked is only 800ma, which is only 0.8 amps. That’s basically a trickle charger to maintain an already charged battery. Even for a lawnmower I would want a charger with at least a 5 amp capacity. 10 amps would be even better, and would be useful if you ever need to charge your vehicle as well.
This is a good choice from a known manufacturer. https://www.amazon.com/Schumacher-SC1320-Automatic-Battery-Maintainer/dp/B0789694GG/ref=sr_1_27_sspa?crid=8VKG6M4UOTN3&dchild=1&keywords=battery+charger+automotive&qid=1600648994&sprefix=Battery+charger%2Caps%2C494&sr=8-27-spon...
I dunno, that sounds too fast to me, at the end. An inductive tachometer is about $10-15, and would answer the question definitively. One example. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0756VGDTC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_yx9yFbJSWKYTF
Ok, so - the cooling fan is working. The lever is working. The belt appears fine (though I will consider replacing it, because I literally never have in the 378 hours on it).
I ran it for about 30 minutes this morning and it was fine.
The transaxle is this one: https://www.amazon.com/Hydro-Gear-ZC-AMBB-4MDB-34PX-Transaxle-Equipment-Manufacturer/dp/B00G1ZV0YI
Yesterday, it read $577, but today it's apparently $834.
I'm not sure how to add fluid to this thing, regardless ...
I wouldn't be surprised if it was just heat - it has been murder down here in south Texas the last couple of weeks. But regardless, I can tell I'm either going to have to consider replacing it at some point or consider replacing this mower for something even more expensive.
/u/siparthegreat below suggested that this is a known issue with this mower. I am going to keep trying to figure this out, but it may just be that I limp along with what I've got until I am forced to replace it.
Yes it could cause it to flood, a simple fix is to put a fuel shutoff valve in the gas line like this, you would have to shut off the fuel valve when done with the mower and turn it back on when you want to use it again and it won’t be able to flood that way
https://www.amazon.com/Briggs-Stratton-698183-Shut-Off-Selected/dp/B0038U3JKM
AFA Tooling Terminal Release Tool Kit 25 Pcs - Stainless Steel Tips Won’t Bend https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07GTQJB3H/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_ZXmiFbG8QC5DB
4th picture look at letter e or f. This is the kit i have. You can use a small flat head screwdriver, like a pocket screwdriver. There is a tang on the backside of the female spade that you have to depress and it slides out.
https://images.app.goo.gl/jNAYEo6YUeDyjDpCA
The middle female you can see the tang im talking about. Hope this helps.
Do it if you want it BUT keep in mind it needs new rear wheels right away and new front wheels soon thats $60 right there https://www.amazon.com/Wheels-HRT216-HRR216-HRS216-HRZ216/dp/B011VCAQZE I personally don’t even think its worth $80, what i would pay for it is $40-$60 max but $80 isn’t a bad price either if your going to keep it to use yourself not sell it for a profit like i do, because at least in my area one in really good shape with good wheels and sharped blade, new oil, clean carburetor, new spark plug, and new air filter goes for $80-150 depending mostly on time of the year, more in the spring and a little less the closer to winter we get
Ugh, vines suck, sorry, I have some to deal with myself.
For manual edgers, I had seen this type, I wonder if maybe they're more effective than the shovel-type you linked to. But these seem to be out of stock where I looked anyhow:
https://www.amazon.com/Ames-Dual-Wheel-Rotary-Edger-2916000/dp/B00OPA6D98
I really don't think those metal blades will fit your weed eater. If it came to that (not saying it was a bad gift), could you return the Bauer, and use that to get something different, maybe used?
The trencher would definitely be overkill. Some HD's seem to rent edgers, which would at least be cheaper. What about used edgers near you, on Craigslist, as well as Facebook Marketplace?
I'm glad HD does tool rentals. But sometimes pricing seems high, vs a good deal on used. They rent a small outdoor tool that I was interested in. But they charge $40/day, and I ended up finding a used one for $50, which is better for me.
Also, I forgot to ask: can you mulch with your current mower, rather than having to rake it? The situation will vary for people, of course. But I mulch rather than bag, it even mulches my leaves in the fall (no raking). Alternately, if you were used-mower-shopping, you might see if you could find one that's also set up to mulch, in addition to bagging.
I never really found a solution, no. I replaced the carb and have still been having issues, I’ve been intending on cleaning the carb with some Seafoam lubricant/cleaner (at the suggestion of other forums) for a while now but haven’t gotten around to doing that yet.
Part of the problem I’m facing is that the black plastic cover that covers the carb turned up missing on my mower quite a while back, so I’ve just kept doing bandaid solutions until I get around to ordering that part from Briggs-Stratton or my local small engine repair shop. I’ve hit a bit of a standstill in my approach to fixing the carb issue due to the fact that I’m missing the carb cover, because I can see how not having the cover and grass/dust getting in the carb and clogging it up could possibly be part of what’s leading to the surging. But until I get that part ordered, like I said, I’m at a bit of a standstill.
Have you considered cleaning/lubing your carb jets with Seafoam? If you do clean your carb, I suggest getting some carb cleaners — they’re little metal pipe cleaner-type things that can fit in the intake/outtake jets of the carb, they come in a bunch of different sizes a ring/handheld thing (similar to an Allen wrench). You can buy them on Amazon for a few bucks.
Here’s an Amazon link for the Seafoam carb cleaner/lube. Do NOT get the Seafoam motor treatment by mistake — it’s not what you’re looking for. Best bet is to buy this off of Amazon since I’ve found that many shops (like AutoZone, Advance, etc.) don’t carry the cleaner/lube.
And here’s a link for the carb jet cleaners. There are other sets on Amazon that are a couple bucks cheaper but this will have everything you need.
Curious to know if any of this works for you!
You often need to upload images to a site like imgur.com (which does not require an account), and then post a link to the uploaded image.
From this: https://www.partstree.com/models/247-370101-11a-b0bs799-craftsman-walk-behind-mower-2014/general-assembly-1/ It looks like you need Control Cable 946-04661A . $10 on that site, or $11 shipped with Prime on Amazon.
https://www.amazon.com/MTD-946-04661-946-04661A-Control-Cable/dp/B006CVJTUS
Most equipment-repair places charge around $8 to ship a small order, so if you have Prime, that's probably your best bet.
Can you use some sort of generic cable? Probably, but I doubt it would save you much $, and it might just make the replacement process more difficult. Getting the correct cable should make the process more straightforward.
I wound up going with this. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01CA4Q2QY/ref=ppx_od_dt_b_asin_title_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I had a hard time finding EGO mowers on amazon that would ship quick to me.
From what I read it seems like greenworks, one of the next best after EGO.
I'd be curious what you think of it though :-)
Buy a hitch online and try not to rip the drive ends out.
Tow Hitch for Cub Cadet,Troy BILT,White ZTR,RZT,RZT-S,Z-Force Rear Mower Hitch https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07L87KQ4M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_siZCDbYR4VJQD
Strange, I always thought blue was for potable water, I'll take a second look before drinking anyone from Ohio's camping water!. Anyway, here's a link to an Ohio safe red one. https://www.amazon.com/VP-Racing-Fuel-3012-Red/dp/B003TTPHLQ
I guess there must be some kind of blockage in there, but for the life of me I can't find it. I can't get the engine running at all at this point, aside from some brief sputtering sometimes. I haven't been spraying in carb spray, just "Starting fluid", though maybe they're similar?
Do you think it's worth buying a new carbeurator? This is a replacement part (https://www.amazon.com/Zeaauto-Lawnmower-Carburetor-Stratton-799866/dp/B0157T94R8/ref=sr_1_3?s=lawn-garden&ie=UTF8&qid=1496242350&sr=1-3&keywords=briggs+and+stratton+799866)
Hey guys, I'm just introducing myself and letting you know why I'm here. From Northern Canada and spend majority of the year snow blowing as opposed to cutting grass... anyways. I picked up a toro self propelled lawn mower for 20 bucks. Got it running and the belt for the blade back on. Freed up the shaft for the gearbox shifter. But I need a cable for the ground control. it snapped.
I cannot find a model number anywhere. Looking for some help. Ive narrowed it down to this part#: 76-2712 https://www.amazon.com/GENUINE-OEM-TORO-PARTS-CONTROL-SPEED/dp/B008TSZM7Q
If anybody can help identify the model# or let me know if this part would work it would be greatly appreciated! Thanks guys