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Any boost module should do. Just turn voltage all the way up, then turn current all the way down, then plug in LED and raise current to where you want it to be.
I use this one: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MSYVMAL/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_XMYYZ94AW45YJ23P5064?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
But really any boost module should do as long as it has current and voltage control. One word of advise though. Don’t run any of these at over 75% maximum current. They are shoddily designed and will fail. Also, make sure to read the maximum input amps. For example, the one linked is 20A. So with a 12v PSU, it can really only give 240w. I run it at 180W.
LED NEON Light, IEKOV AC 110-120V Flexible RGB LED Neon Light Strip, 60 LEDs/M, Waterproof, Multi Color Changing 5050 SMD LED Rope Light + Remote Controller for Home Decoration (16.4ft/5m) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01JZ74KJA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glc_fabc_nD.aGbJ1RT8C9?psc=1
There are other ones too, just search “RGB Neon Strip”
you might be able to! You would need:
1.) Nanoleaf panels
2.) Android or Chrome device
3.) Spotify Premium
4.) this app: https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.cyclub.cyclubspotify
Full disclosure, i made the app lol… im actually looking for users to test it out and give me some feedback!
You just need a controller like this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00AF5YOK2/ref=cm_sw_r_em_apa_i_VvmfEbWB7BBTV
And also a power supply to plug into the controller
You'll find ones on amazon that sell both together.
The led strip InTheDaylight14 is describing is the correct choice.
Fist I write the simple solution you need, and later I explain the issue:
This led strip or similar.
This light sensor or similar.
With this, you don't need Arduino, microcontrolers, etc, just a scissors.
This led strip it has:
- 1 Common wire
- 1 Wire for cold white
- 1 Wire for warm white
Just connect the sensor between common and the color you want to manage, and keep the other with power all the time.
............................................. MORE DETAILS .....................................................
CCT led strip is nothing more than cold white leds and warm white leds within the same led strip, alternated or both ic's in the same encapsulation.
You can distinguish them because the warm white led are a bit like orange, they have more phosphor. White color is not made by red+green+blue but by blue + yellow (red+green)
If you just connect common and cold white leds, you will get a blue-white light.
If you just connect common and warm white leds, you will get a yellow-white light.
If you connect common and both white leds, you will get a pure-white light.
The light sensor will disconnect the cold white leds at night, so you will have pure white at daytime, and warm white at night.
You need a rgb power supply and control. if you want something plug and play. Otherwise browse here and find out what else you can do 😊
A simple Google search for "tunable LED strip" brings back plenty of results, but you will only be able to find strips that offer either a fixed color temp or two options, this is due to LEDs cannot have variable temps so they put different temp LEDs on the strip then they can be turned on off discretely. Here is an example.
https://www.amazon.com/LEDENET-Tunable-Adjustable-Temperature-Lighting/dp/B07NRMX43G
You cannot "hardwire" LEDs into an outlet, they use different forms of voltage than the outlet provides therefore you needs a way to convert from the wall voltage to the LED voltage.
Regarding mounting, I believe you are looking for an LED Channel.
You didn't specify the type of LED you wanted to use; that will dictate the kind of splitter you need. Assuming basic 12V LED tape, sounds like you're describing something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Splitter-Connector-Strips-12inch-4Splitter/dp/B072K21JVF/
You've got it in reverse. What you want to do is convert the 6V to 12V to run the lights at 12V.
You need a step-up/boost switching voltage converter, something like this:
or maybe this
There are a great many varieties of these on ebay, or amazon. You need to make sure it can handle the wattage of the lights. You can usually adjust the output voltage with a small screwdriver to dial in the correct output voltage.
I´m a bit late to the party, but hope this helps to you.
Each led have a defined spectrum, and this depends on the technology used to achieve the color. You cannot "customize" this, but mix them. I mean, if you use a blue and red led, you will get purple light, but this doesn´t mean you have a pure purple spectrum, but 2 (blue + red)
But, if you just want it for a science project, nothing critical nor professional, just use and rgb lamp or led strip, and a led controller with diy feature so you can set up and save different colors you want.
I suggest you to use the 5050 encapsulation, as this one has all 3 basic colors inside, and it's convenient for small spaces and low power issues like what you describe.
Don't spend more than $100, including shipping.
Have a nice day.
What glue? Are you planning to remove the strips from something and restick them, because that’s not going to work. I’d use this
These lights have the color you want and they run cool.
For other LEDs limit the power to 1W in a medium mason jar and it should be fine. Power = Voltage * Current. Above should draw 9mA * 6V = 54mW.
In my experience if the electrical connections/electrical are near any sort of sustained water (esp. heated or airated, etc..) (looking at your other posts a whirlpool/hot tub indoors definitely falls under that category) unprotected electrical components will deteriorate quickly.
I would make sure to use butt connectors and then seal them with adhesive lined heat shrink.
Also since you said they were installed for a few weeks, my bet is there has been corrosion inside the power supply and controller too... I would take the current controller and power supply out, and open them up to see if you see any corrosion on the parts/traces inside them. If you do, I would get new ones, open them up, and spray them with a liberal amount of conformal coating, to protect the insides before you install them.
Each color channel needs about 1.3A so something simple like this should do. Note this relay board is using a solid state relay which is faster than the mechanical type.
Yeah, that should work. There are tons of options available quickly from amazon, like this one.
I used these led strips: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07WPSP8Y1?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2_dt_b_product_details
I'm looking for a brighter set for doing another one of these. Does anyone have any recommendations?
I would like them to be battery powered.
Looks good regardless, I got the same thing in my room. Also incase you’re interested, there are these cheap receivers on amazon you can get that make these lights work with alexa/siri. You can just ask siri to make them red or any color. Thought it was pretty cool so I got me one. They are a lot cheaper on aliexpress, found one for $5 free shipping. Careful though some of them got no IR reciever so they won’t work with the remote anymore, but is one that also has that so you can use both the controller and your phone either through the app or siri/alexa/google home. Might wanna check it out:
Amazon:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07116SX41/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_2BXK43EDNAATHW6HP328
Aliexpress:
​
this connector will solve your issue, 4pin connector for rgb strip, the white end connect the 4 cables of your led strip , and the black end connect the controller.
No I don't, but you could use a DMX decoder like this to drive either an LED strip (or any serial-protocol addressable LEDs) or up to five discrete channels (e.g. RGB+WW+CW LED). The documentation on this particular device is horrible, but it works well once you figure it out. The 5 outputs are designed to sink current (i.e. common-anode LED configuration), but I've never been able to find the max current spec. At least a couple hundred mA, I think.
Center-to-center spacing of 5mm would mean 200 LEDs/meter, which is denser than anything I've seen. 120 LEDs/m is the densest that I easily find, so let's assume 180 LEDs on the perimeter. I'm roughly estimating 150 LEDs on the front, so that's 270 LEDs total.
20mA is pretty typical current for this type of LED, so let's roll with that. You'll need a 12v power supply that can put out 270 x 0.02 = 5.4 Amps. That's 12v x 5.4A = 64.8 Watts. Adding a 50% safety margin would lead you to a 12v 100W power supply. I recommend a power supply like this or this. You won't find a "wall wart" type power supply with this power rating.
As I said, I think everything is designed to operate at 12v. Please test carefully, for a brief period while checking everything for any overheating. These power supplies have overcurrent protection, and will temporarily shut down if they're asked to deliver more current than they're rated for. Good luck!
You can buy things like this with various differnet connectivity options, wifi, zigbee, Z Wave and I'm fairly sure I've even seen Bluetooth versions: https://www.amazon.com/Downlight-Automation-Compatible-SmartThings-Lightify/dp/B07KWXFDQC
If you get lucky the hole will be the right size, if not cutting out a section of the plasterboard and replacing it to make a new hole is not that difficult, check out YouTube for videos, its fairly easy stuff to work with.
Maybe look into 120v led ribbon like this
Should be plenty bright and it is 150 ft of light. Just plug it into a standard outlet.
And
SANSI LED Security Motion Sensor Outdoor Lights, 36W (250W Incandescent Equivalent) 3600lm, 5000K Daylight, Dusk to Dawn Waterproof Flood Light, ETL Listed, White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01NCW5KL8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_fabc_9dqUFb74YDWEW?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
If you’d like 5 years warranty vs shorter :) but as far as performance I couldn’t say which I’d prefer
If you have fixtures by the doorway, I’d go with something simple. Sengled Motion Sensor Light Outdoor, Dusk to Dawn LED Outdoor Lighting, Motion Activated Auto On/Off A19 3000K 1200lm LED Light Bulb Security Light for Front Door Porch Garage Hallway, 2 Pack 2nd Gen https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0892L4QNC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_fabc_DEpUFbB5Z1VNA?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
These are warmer colored, and you can set the motion activated to easily find your doorway.
Sorry I couldn’t help more! You shouldn’t need more than 3, mounted rooftop and directing the faces according to your corners. (Referring to lights in first post). Those really are impressive lights I’ve seen in the wild.
But a combo of the above would be brilliant. I don’t think it’s necessary to custom build considering the quality and price... value currently available
Wish you luck!
LED Security Lights, 28W 3000LM Motion Sensor Light Outdoor, GLORIOUS-LITE Super Bright 2 Head Outdoor Flood Light, 5500K, IP65 Waterproof, ETL Certified for Garage, Yard, Porch (NO Solar Power) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07X4GDCBS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_fabc_dlC_hxpUFb2JBZRW6?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
LEPOWER 35W LED Security Lights Motion Sensor Light Outdoor, 3500LM Motion Security Light, Waterproof IP65, 5500K, Full Metal, 3 Head Motion Detected for Garage,Porch,Yard (NOT Solar Powered) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07XCCXJMB/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_fabc_4ApUFbPDW2TJJ
If you don’t mind the price tag, I believe these would be very easy time:money:PERFORMANCE.
you need to get "EL wire." real EL is expensive. there are cheap clones and to me, they work fine. BUT they make an annoying pitch sound. not an issue if you are in a crowd. you will notice if you are in a room by yourself
Again, first off, thank you for your detailed assistance.
Yeah I believe the Teensy is an Arduino derivative.
This matrix example really helped clear up confusion I had.
I actually took into account the different factors of each LED, but like you mentioned in your response, the addressable LED might an approach worth looking into.
Do you think something like this would suffice?
HJHX Ws2812b Led Strip-16.4ft 300LEDs Individually Addressable Led Light, SMD5050 RGB Magic Color Flexible Rope Lights with Pure Gold Wire(Non-Waterproof) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B078S6Z9KG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_fabt1_sYRTFbCCF3SW7
Again, thank you so much for your detailed response
So is this
AUXLIGHT 881 889 886 894 862 896 898 LED Fog Light Bulbs 6000K Xenon White, Super Bright High Power COB Chips LED Fog Daytime Running Lights DRL Bulbs Replacement for Cars, Trucks (Pack of 2) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B087TKXVQX/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_fabt1_yZQTFb3YN9RF6
The same as this
H8 H11 LED Fog Light Bulbs Extremely Bright 2000 Lumens with High Power CSP Chipsets 6000K Cool White for DRL or H9 H16JP Fog Lights Lamp Replacement (Pack of 2) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07XDRG7FQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_fabt1_b0QTFb4Q48RTJ?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
You need a deep channel with a good diffuser; the further the strips are from the diffuser the more uniform the light. Look down the page for the "spotless" series. No matter what, you are going to see the light reflected in the shiny counter tops. We get this comment from our clients on occasion, but I assure them after a few days they will not even notice it anymore.
Here's one from Amazon:
Here's one on eBay:
The eBay one costs less. It's essential to have a 10A power supply because if you get, say, a 3A power supply, it would burn out quite quickly.
Searching Google for "G9 led bulb" brings up plenty of results from places like Amazon, Home Depot, Walmart, etc. If you'd rather not shop locally, you're essentially looking for this or something similar.
Yes, you will need a power supply and a controller of some kind (similar to what came with the original kit).
I searched Amazon with the term "LED strip controller" and found this which should work fine . It's even the same brand as what you have (not that it's critical to do that)
Here's some connectors with wire and plugs on amazon if you prefer to order from there.
It's all pretty standard stuff for the most part.
Have fun
As previous poster said, you’ll need some sort of controller to change colors for you.
There are tons of light strips on Amazon that come with remotes: Amazon
There are a lot of options so I'll just send quick links to get you started. I didn't research these particular products, so might want to shop around.
Basically you need a solderless 4 pin connector. And then a, 12v power supply + rgb led controller. The solderless connectors can be hit or miss. Sometimes they need to be bent around to make good contact. I didn't see the width of your strips so make sure you get the right size. These type of controllers are pretty cheap so if you want to break the strip up a lot you can get a multipack.
I’m mostly familiar with 12VDC LED tape. With that hardware in mind, no I cannot think of a way to really avoid soldering. It’s not hard. It’s not expensive. A soldering iron is $20 tops. You need some dimmers - to do this route I’m thinking of. Like these https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01325KCSY/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_MGoGFb4JTBPWE
These are the ones I am using.
LightingWill 5-Pack V-Shape LED Aluminum Channel System 3.3ft/1M Anodized Black Corner Mount Extrusion for <12mm Width SMD3528 5050 LED Strips with Milky White Cover, End Caps, Clips V02B5 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01DM7GBIM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_Dg4FFbJ7HS8WV
1.If you want to use that dimmer you will need a dimmable 12v driver. Example: https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B07SPJPBN5/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_8iPDFbZH23GAA
Note that you won't get any color changing ability with this, so your sstrip should be a single color.
2.Hardware stores sell aluminum and steel channel in various sizes but you would have to make cuts and welds on your own. A local machine shop could fabricate a custom fixture for you fairly cheap!
There are some interesting holders and diffusers on AliExpress: https://m.aliexpress.com/item/32803835511.html
Try searching for "led strip diffuser" or "led trough".
3.Semi-transparent and opaque plexiglass and acrylic make excellent diffusers and are easy to work with. Custom glass shops also usually have diffusion film that looks cool with lights behind it.
You can buy some Lazer lights that are designed for a club for a really good price and go from there.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06WRWNQDN/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_cFUxFbSKWSDHT
If you want to look into WLEDs and spending a little more, building it yourself (which make them more controllable, just a really cool project and just a lot more appealing) you can find some videos on YouTube or check out aircookies open source project on GitHub.
What you have is digital or “smart” strip, most likely WS2811, each group of 3 LEDs can be controlled separately, allowing each segment to be a different color or intensity.
The wifi controller you have is for analogue or “dumb” strip, and uses PWM to dim each color the entire length of the strip.
Digital strip is not compatible with analogue strip and visa versa.
You can use almost any microcontroller to send the NRZ data the digital strips are looking for, or purchase something similar to your analogue controller, but for digital LEDs.
Here is a link to one, but there are many other similar models as well. https://www.amazon.com/ALITOVE-WS2812B-Controller-DC5V-24V-Addressable/dp/B07TYMR2T2/
TronicsPros 4 Pin LED Splitter Cable RGB LED Strip Connector Y Splitter 2 Way Splitter for One to Two SMD 5050 3528 2835 RGB LED Tape Light LED Ribbon -30cm/12inch Long (1 to 2 Splitter, White, 1pc) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B016KSOSX0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_MMftFbZ16NG85
Put your lights into a channel like : These
Then face the channel DOWN and enjoy the diffuse back scatter of reflected photons.
​
They also have 45° channels so you don't have to choose straight hirozontal, or straight down. You could then get a nice lighting of the floor and some of the space beyond.
So I can just wire something like this in between my power supply and my boos converter?
I got some SMD 5050 RGB led strips from Amazon that seem to work pretty well, $32 for 32ft, and the adhesive is good. None of the LED connectors are very tough because the pins are so small, so you might want to get some sort of physical retention to keep them secure. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07WCH8L5R/
Solder the wires together, wrap in shrink tube, or electrical tape.
Someone else might know the difference between L, N, H, or the colors....but I've wired a 2 wire in both ways, and never had a problem.
As for the LED side, make sure + goes to + and - goes to -.
easy peasy.
You can use an amplifier to switch a 24 V strip using the signals that are switching the 12 V strip. You will also need a second power supply to provide 24 V to the output side of the amplifier.
https://www.amazon.com/SUPERNIGHT-Lights-Channels-Amplifier-Repeater/dp/B01LZAVJJL
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MHNQIR2?ref_=cm_sw_r_apin_dp_C8YPF9GKMCWPGKM44A08
This will work but not 100% sure the connectors will match sizes. If not you can pretty easily splice the wires together.
Were you asking about the cord from the wall to the PSU? I would definitely take advantage of the ground and just get a long 3 prong cord like this.
For the PSU to LEDs, I'd use something like the 18/2 wire I linked above.
You just need something like this: 4 Pin LED Strip Connector
You would need to trim the LED strip at the next "cut here" section, so you will lose a little bit of the strip.
Thanks a lot. I found something like this: https://www.amazon.de/-/pl/dp/B083ZC3DZM/ref=sr\_1\_10?\_\_mk\_pl\_PL=%C3%85M%C3%85%C5%BD%C3%95%C3%91&crid=2YBFSYMJB2U3O&keywords=350mA%2Bkonstant%2Bcurrent%2B1-8w&qid=1670848909&sprefix=350ma%2Bconstant%2Bcurrent%2B1-8w%2Caps%2C77... Will it do the job?
Thanks a lot. I found something like this: https://www.amazon.de/-/pl/dp/B083ZC3DZM/ref=sr_1_10?__mk_pl_PL=%C3%85M%C3%85%C5%BD%C3%95%C3%91&crid=2YBFSYMJB2U3O&keywords=350mA%2Bkonstant%2Bcurrent%2B1-8w&qid=1670848909&sprefix=350ma%2Bconstant%2Bcurrent%2B1-8w%2Caps%2C77&sr=8-10&th=1 Will it do the job?
You need a 12V DC power supply; it says it right there on the inverter. They're super common these days for LED systems, so any basic on will get you started. As for the switch, find a low voltage one in the format you want and put it between the red wire and the power supply (the switch should have instructions on what connector does what).
Electrically, both are the same.
In practice you might find it beneficial to run each line back to the PSU (i.e. what u/herp_de_derp said), especially if your PSU has multiple terminals. If it doesn't, consider using a splitter to make it easier swap out a strip if one goes bad.
What type of connector is on your mobo? Mine has 5V digital and 12V analog connectors. These specific LEDs are analog but you can't just connect them directly to the mobo without some sort of additional driver circuitry.
These ones are fairly similar in package but digital and can be connected directly to a 3-pin mobo header and be controlled by whatever RGB software your mobo manufacturer uses.
I went ahead and bought this 12V/5A supply to replace the dead 1A supply:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B073QTNF9F/
The fuse thing has me spooked though. Any pointers on which fuse types to buy, and how I should properly install them on the leads of the supply?
https://www.amazon.com.au/gp/product/B0B8MPM3P6/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A2XKCIUQ9UB1KN&th=1
My USB Powerbank has 2 5v 2.4a output sockets. Can I run 2 of these 2m Strips in the one powerbank?
thanks again. SO something like this would not work right?
There are different types and brands. I typically get the D1 mini clones like this
Is this what you mean by controller? These are just as expensive as a long led strip. Do you know of somewhere to search for a decent/fairly priced controller?
Your pic has shows the underside (light base) and top (light cover). Those 2 should come apart to reveal a replaceable part like this:
https://www.amazon.com/Ceiling-Circle-Fluorescent-Replacement-Retrofit/dp/B0B6GKWQ16
Looking at it, damned if I know how they come apart though. I see pictures insinuating they should maybe rotate apart?
Something like these 4 pin connectors?
I wound up going with 12V strips instead, and bought this, which seems to be working so far in the -20C we've had: https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B06XJVYDDW/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
The easiest way is with Wago connectors. You feed in one +5V or ground wire from the power supply and then you can branch out with 1, 2, or 4 wires for LEDs, power injection, the ESP, and anything else you might need. These allow you to disconnect everything easily and can handle up to 450V/32A.
Alternatives would be a terminal/fuse block, soldering everything together, a power supply with multiple terminals like you mentioned (though most I've seen only have two 5V and two GND).
You might also look through the compatible hardware list since many of these shields/boards are setup specifically for this and have tons of terminals and other features you'd want in one little package.
I tried but when I hit the post button it said "This community only allows trusted members to post here". Idk. but here's the link to the clips:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09TDSBQKF?ref=ppx\_yo2ov\_dt\_b\_product\_details&th=1
Correct, it's s tiny matchbook sized thing, which converts the AC power, to DC for 12V DC LED lights. It's almost like having an inline fuse. Hope this link works: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00SGMW4K8/ref=ox\_sc\_act\_title\_1?smid=A8EPM5GE4JR7S&psc=1
I don’t know of any weatherproof power supplies that are pre-wired with an AC plug, but it’s easy to attach one to the Mean Well HLG units. This is what I use:
Pinfox 10ft 18 Gauge 3 Prong... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07QYRMD6D?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
You need to heat shrink all those exposed wires or you'll short something out and kill it or worse, start an electrical fire. Get some of this, put over the wires, then solder them:
https://www.amazon.com/Ginsco-580-pcs-Assorted-Sleeving/dp/B01MFA3OFA/ref=sr_1_5_mod_primary_sns
The multimeter is to check continuity so you can confirm there are no shorts. In this case, the color of the probes does not matter. You want to verify that none of the pads/wires are shorting out to a different pad/wire. Set your meter to continuity mode and make sure it works by touching the probes together—you should hear a beep. Then place one probe on a 12v pad/wire and then touch the other probe to each other pad/wire. If nothing beeps then you at least know you won’t melt any wires or blow any fuses if you had them. You probably want to check for shorts against the other pads as well; while they won’t cause any damage, your colors will not be correct.
You can buy in-line fuse holders that use automotive fuses. You just cut them in the middle and splice them between your connection. Keep in mind the purpose of fuses is to protect the wiring, so place them as close to the power supply as possible. The easiest way to add them is to use wago splice connectors—just strip and clip.
An alternative to LED strips might be a floor lamp like this (random example): they are dimmable, some can change color temperature and I think it would work well with the rounded corners you have.
I'm not sure, But a quick search shows Naomi sells a 10ft extension cord with a male and female connection of this type for $16. I would just buy one and cut it to get a connector.
https://www.amazon.com/Atomi-Smart-10ft-Extension-Cable/dp/B09798JD65
These are wired similar, but don't have the framework of the original.
ALITOVE WS2811 Addressable LED Pixel Light 50pcs 5V 12MM Digital Dream Color Diffused
RGB LED Pixels Module Round Black Wire IP68 Waterproof (50 pcs $17) (500 pcs $130)
https://www.amazon.com/ALITOVE-Addressable-Digital-Diffused-Waterproof/dp/B06XD72LYM
Would this ikea one work? link
I couldn’t locate the amperage of the switch you sent. I found several with a 30a rating. But this looks promising. Dimmer Switch, DC 12V-24V 18A PWM LED https://www.amazon.com/dp/B077PQ1VQY/ref=cm_sw_r_api_i_RZFAF1TK1KD3N9YFTZ2F_0
here are some varrying lengths
does it have to be one relay per light?
Could something like this work?
https://www.amazon.com/SainSmart-USB-Channel-Relay-Automation/dp/B009A524Z0/ref=sr_1_8?crid=2G8W4HMQVZ0LD&keywords=usb+relays&qid=1665426197&qu=eyJxc2MiOiIyLjI3IiwicXNhIjoiMC4wMCIsInFzcCI6IjAuMDAifQ%3D%3D&sprefix=%2Caps%2C361&sr=8-8
Can I connect each light to each separately channel and make an app in VB to send the signal?
Also the Lamp has a Buzz feature, can I make it work using relays too?
That's interesting, do you mean something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Mounting-Self-Adhesive-Brackets-Holder-100-Pack/dp/B079LZSRXV?qu=eyJxc2MiOiI0LjkxIiwicXNhIjoiNC42MyIsInFzcCI6IjQuNTQifQ%3D%3D
The issue I see with those is that a key purpose of the aluminum channel is to dissipate heat, especially for powerful strips. If the strip is suspended above the metal with plastic it won't make proper contact to dissipate the heat. Any ideas there?
I was thinking if anything I could run 12v into the controller and use something like this in between the controller and the lights - https://www.amazon.com/Converter-Regulator-Adapter-Vehicle-DC9-20V/dp/B01EFUHGMU
Should be able to find strips in 5m lengths if need be. Here's an individually addressable RGB strip. And if you aren't in a hurry, somewhere like AliExpress has an absurd amount of channel options (including double-wide)... might make your head spin. But if you're in the states, expect 3-5 weeks delivery time.
As far as power options, how complicated that'll be will depend on whether you're going with 5v, 12v, 24v, but look into "power injection." Lots of articles and youtube videos on the subject that should get you started.
Actually going with a solar flashlight might actually be the simplest way to go. The hardest part would be making an enclosure that looks nice. You would need to find a day/night sensor to keep the light from running during the day. I think, and I'm absolutely no expert, you would just need to figure out how to wire the +/- leads from the bulb holder to the wires from the battery and how you would get a day/night sensor wired in. Basically you would remove the wires from the LED in the flashlight and then connect + to + and - to -.
Now for a massive caveat: you got to make sure the power source matches the minimum and doesn't exceed the maximum voltages and amperages. Every LED has a minimum V and A needed to turn on and a max that if you exceed it will burn it out.
I picked this all up from ledsupply.com in the blog posts and diy articles.
Can you share any info on the bulb you're looking at using?
you can try these: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09DFGM7S2
the bulbs are spaced about every 3 feet, and can be individually controlled with an app. (I just bought this for patio lighting...) The bulbs are not super bright, but you have full control over the color.
Should work for you, if the bulbs will fit into the doll heads. If not, you can look for a similar type of strand with a smaller bulb, or DIY it.
LED puck lights and dimmers used:
- ALOVECO LED RV Lights, 12V Led Lights Dimmable Camper Interior Lights 3000K Ultra-Thin RV Lights Interior Waterproof 12 Volt LED Ceiling Lights Motorhome Sailboat Yacht Case of 8 Packs
- SLVDx-60W LED Switch and Dimmer for Standard Wall Switch Box
Other other major 12V DC components in the system:
- Vitrifrigo Sea Classic DP150 refrigerator
- Victron Multiplus 12/3000/120-50 inverter
- Victron Smart Solar MPPT 250/60 and 100/20
- Victron Cerbo GX controller
- Pepwave MAX BR1 Pro 5G mobile router
- 4 * Sirocco II Fans
- Le Mans Rooftop Ventilator 12V
- Control circuits and fans for heater and water heater
Your third link isn't to a power source, it's just another sign, but these generally help. To be safe, I think you should consider a self-powered multiport hub instead of a single USB port. It's likely you'll just exceed the 2A max for most USB chargers if you're trying to power all 5 from one port.
Maybe they got bought a lamp, and some galvanized pipe, and made them fit together?
https://www.amazon.com/Daylight-Non-Dim-Equivalent-Warehouse-Basement/dp/B09X31JR82
Or maybe they bought something?
https://www.laststoplighting.com/explosion-proof-90-stanchion-mount-luminaire-57-watt/
Sorry, I missed that about the PS input voltage. But the LRS series is solid, and I've used them many times.
- I really don't know much about off-the shelf controllers, but that seems like a reasonable choice.
- Yes, you can do that as long as you don't exceed the per-channel or total current limit of the controller. Get this ferrule crimper set and thank me later. Just make sure the controller's screw terminal will open wide enough to accept the size ferrule you'll need to combine 3 wires. Twist the wires together tightly before inserting into the ferrule.
You're welcome! I enjoy helping people (even newbies), as long as they put out some effort to do some research and try to understand what they're doing rather than just follow someone's instructions.
That's reassuring to hear! Just realized that PSU is AC180 ~ 264V not 110-220, so I'll probably swap to the Mean Well LRS-350-24 instead which is 110-220V.
I think I have 2 last questions if you're able to answer
- Is there a certain brand of controller your recommend? I saw one of the GLEDOPTO ZigBee LED Strip Controllers seemed to have a decent app for RGBCCT.
- Is it possible to just use one controller for 3 different LED strips? If so, is the best method to jam 3 different wires into each receptor of the controller? I feel like that might not be the optimal way to handle that
I checked your profile and you've made some sweet creations, I appreciate you helping out newbies on here
I can’t do the movements with my arm bc my wrist gets inflamed. I looked years ago but realized I didn’t have the skill to program/create something like this then (I might now that things and tech have advanced).
Buzzers are the best alternative.
However, have you ever seen anyone use an expanding metal rod (looks like an old radio antenna?) with a red top? I saw this in a training. It’s a magnetic pickup rod for mechanics and construction workers, then you can put a red piece on top that was also magnetic. This doohickey let’s you do a lot less with your arm and get the same motion. But… even easier is adog target training stick
I just tried and the spam bot hid it. Here it is again, the ad says 108 3w high intensity LEDs which counts up correctly
Simplest is the SP002e
https://www.amazon.com/BTF-LIGHTING-SK6812RGB-Addressable-Portable-Controller/dp/B07PFB6YHV/
There is is quite a few more advanced ones with remotes and app control in the SPXXXe series, BTF are a well regarded vendor.
Use 12V power supple. Connect to it a car turn light flasher like this: https://www.amazon.com/Electronic-Flashers-Non-Polarity-Universal-Normally/dp/B09333FF7F. After the flash module put LEDs.
I think that's a simplest way to make a LED flash. The relay may produce clicky sound.
Here is something that seems useful. You still have to cut, but no stripping and soldering.
https://www.amazon.com/Connectors-Connector-Extension-Terminal-Lighting/dp/B09PR418WZ/
If I understand correctly WLED works on long continuous strips and you don't have to connect each strip separately.
I found two but will explore other avenues.
https://ifttt.com/applets/W2RpMG6g-set-a-phillips-hue-scene-when-your-zoom-meeting-starts
https://ifttt.com/applets/CTmGVJYe-activate-a-lifx-scene-when-your-zoom-meeting-starts
I gave some thought to this with current commercial products rather than building it from scratch.
You could get a smart LED power supply and use something similar to IFTTT that automatically turns on the lights when you start a video call.
https://ifttt.com/explore/smart-lights-collection
I shall revert with a solution soon.
If you can’t see the text under the picture:
I am looking to create a giant softbox look above our stage. Due to the limited space above the softbox, we were looking to use LED strips and I’m looking for suggestion and advice.
From my understanding of how to properly diffuse these, is all I have to do is make sure the distance from the strips to the diffusion is greater than the distance between each strip?
Will having the strips say, 6 inches apart with the diffusion 8 inches away cause the light spread to be smooth, or would it look wavy?
We are wanting full color mixing as well as a good white for skin tones. Would it be best to opt for a RGB strip with separate white strips? Or would RGBW strips give a decent skin tone while being economical?
One thing I am having a hard time figuring out is the brightness we want, and the how to calculate it. Advice here is much appreciated.
I have linked below some LED strips I have used in the past with decent results. I am aware they are in the cheaper side, but the main thing I am looking for is a good price to brightness ratio. Are these cheaper ones a good value, or would some of the more expensive ones out there give more brightness for the price?
In terms of powering all of these LEDs, what brand of power supply’s do you guys trust?
In terms of controlling these LEDs through DMX, I have had good luck with just some cheap $50 DMX decoders which control 4 strips each. Do you guys know of any good value controllers which can handle say, 10+ strips?
Dimmers using Triacs create hefty noise on the power line. Good filters will reduce that noise. Good dimmers have good filters and good PSUs have good filters too. So adding a filter either after the dimmer or before the PSU should help.
Surge supressors (as you have in a link) will do nothing though: they remove voltage spikes which are far above 120V (or 230V or whatever normal voltage you have). Something like this is what you want, but properly sized for your voltage and amps.
Do you think something like this (https://amazon.com/Furman-Sound-Outlet-Surge-Suppressor/dp/B0009GI7NC) would allow me to reduce the buzz on the PSU while keeping the dimmer?
Ok so for power usage I also can’t find any information, not even on their website. In order to find that I would look at similar products and see what power they draw (ex look at other 12v daylight white led strips with 18 LEDs/foot of the 2835 size). I’m guessing it’s pretty low though because generally white led strips don’t take a lot of power, especially considering these ones are low density (18 LEDs/foot). Also judging by the size of that tiny power supply that comes with it, I guess all 40ft take less than 5amps. Most power supplies I’ve seen that are over 5 amps come in a larger package. So when looking at other similar strips you can use that 5amps as a reference starting point.
For your install I wouldn’t put 13.5V straight into the LEDs. They would probably handle it fine but they will get hotter and it will shorten the lifespan. 12.5V is about as high as I would comfortably go on a permanent install like that. I know this just from looking at LED data sheets occasionally and from what I read other people on here saying. To verify a google search would probably tell you a lot more. To drop the voltage there is probably a variety of ways, and here is one idea: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08KZPXK63?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
A heat sink isn’t necessary for standard led strips like this. If they are high density or some of those really bright powerful ones then I would consider a heat sink.
Hope that helps! I’m happy to answer more questions if it’s something I know, if not I’ll tell you.
This worked well, thanks for the help. I used these with 220v supply Used these LED indicators
Also would this be acceptable or is it over kill? Seems hard to find something in between 150 and 200