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WIMAXIT Portable Touch Monitor, 14 Inch 98% sRGB FHD IPS Computer External Display USB-C Gaming Screen with Type-C Mini HDMI for Laptop PC Xbox PS5, Include Smart Cover（Touch not for Mac OS） https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08JLWNX22/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glc_fabc_movaGbA7SZ793?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
2-Pack Replacement Mount Metal Plates D.Sking Car Phone Holder 3M Adhesive CD Metal Plates for Car I bought 3 of these and they come with 2 plates: Mount Car Kits (Silver) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B089G3LSDQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_TKX3YQRFQTTQ1RXPW70F?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I use these they look really good and fit perfect.
2-Pack Replacement Mount Metal Plates D.Sking Car Phone Holder 3M Adhesive CD Metal Plates for Car Mount Car Kits (Silver) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B089G3LSDQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_EFKDXW80GQMKC69F5DE9?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
WIMAXIT Portable Touch Monitor, 14 Inch 98% sRGB FHD IPS Computer External Display USB-C Gaming Screen with Type-C Mini HDMI for Laptop PC Xbox PS5, Include Smart Cover（Touch not for Mac OS） https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08JLWNX22/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glc_fabc_yeHaGbA168KWG?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
WIMAXIT Portable Touch Monitor, 14 Inch 98% sRGB FHD IPS Computer External Gaming USB-C Display Screen with Dual Type-C Mini HDMI for Laptop PC Xbox PS5,（Touch not for Mac OS/Surface Pro） https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08JLWNX22/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_BWQBJCDV19WCNYXCWZXD this is what I got. But any 14” portable monitor would work in a Lian li mini.
I am using this setup in my XL.
LINKUP - Ultra PCIe 4.0 X16 Riser Cable [RTX3090 RX6900XT x570 B550 Z590 Tested] Shielded Extreme High-Speed Vertical Mount Gaming PCI Express Gen4┃Straight Socket {15cm} 3.0 Gen3 & TT Compatible https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08YZ676LX/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_EG91Y3W38N067F9D6YE6?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
EKWB EK-Loop Vertical GPU Holder https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08L5JRCKZ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_B2KCRPRHBW49B7ZJZSRQ
For the cable, ask in the questions section which length and orientation you need and the product seller will answer you and tell you which you need.
The EL vertical mount is super sturdy. It's steel and not weak aluminum.
Also when using the custom PCIE 4 cable you don't actually screw it to the mount. You just feed it through. It's mentioned in the Amazon listing and the instructions.
I ordered mine from amazon Japan LIANLI O11 DYNAMIC MINI Dedicated Video Card Vertical Installation Kit PCIe Gen4.0 White Model O11DMINI-1W-4 https://www.amazon.co.jp/dp/B08TQQVZP1/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_HV9Y7W70697CGM4PV25B?psc=1
22PCS Mending Plates Flat Brackets Straight Brackets 40mm/1.6inch Stainless Steel Brackets Mending Brace for Wood Shelves Dressers Chairs Cupboard Drawers with Screws https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B08P5V8PCN/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_R2A816849ZB16454WFVV?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Used the Cooler master one, it's temporary until Lian Li releases theirs for the O11 Mini.
They are actually silent I have them at constant 50% speed. If you really want a more silent option you can get Noctua NF-A6x25
I am pretty sure any ATX mobo won't fit by default because the heatsink will get in the way.
I used these for my own 360mm mobo on top along with some zip ties. They are 40mm mending plates. I screwed one hole with the radiator and tied the other one with the case. It turned out sturdy enough even for my custom loop so I don't think you should worry about working with some zip ties. It takes a bit of work to set up the first two though so an extra hand will be helpful with this.
If you really want that mobo, then this method should allow you to do it. Good luck!
That’s the old style fan splitter . This link will show you newer style . PWM Fan Splitter ,TeamProfitcom 4 pin Adapter Cable Sleeved Braided Y Splitter Computer CPU Fan Splitter PC 4 Pin Fan Extension Power Cable 1 to 4 Converter 12 inches https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07R7ZB8HD/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_EEBH4AXTZ14RFPSEHX9G
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07P6QSSFN/ref=ox_sc_saved_title_3?smid=&psc=1
I sent you the wrong link. sorry
This one is the one I’m using now and I absolutely love it. The cable braiding is rather stiff so you can bend it and it’ll hold its shape, which makes it great for cable management.
Not expensive, but definitely not cheap. This stand is solid!
VIVO Dual LCD LED 13 to 27 inch Monitor Desk Mount Stand, Heavy Duty Fully Adjustable, Fits 2 Screens, STAND-V002 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009S750LA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_E9A2P2XVXS6CBJCANPJP?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Ya, I couldn't find/get the new Lian Li one so I did some research and it the Phantek https://www.amazon.ca/Phanteks-PH-VGPUKT_02-Universal-Vertical-Pci/dp/B07MW73HTJ
Haven't had and drooping yet. It has notches where you use the finger screws and as long as I got them nice and tight all was well.
I use this for my O11D and it has been rock solid.
Liitrton Mobile CPU Stand Adjustable Computer Tower Stand with 4 Caster Wheels Fits Most PC (Black) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B083DMYKC9/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_0ZPMMNKQ4FB89EKW2SEX?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
NZXT Internal USB Hub 3 - AC-IUSBH-M3-4 Internal USB 2.0 Ports - 3M Dual Lock Tapes - Magnetic Body - Plug and Play https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B08L8VJS3Z/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_DPM2WKH4HXC5Q0AG6XEV
Yes i'm using two different channel from the PSU. I had to buy two different kit, as it's really hard to find one including 3 PCI-E 8 PINS. One 8 PIN cable from LINKUP, and one kit from ABN01. I would recommand Linkup brand, sleeves are more rigid.
I ordered these. Just came in today. I wll let you know how it goes tomorrow. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08LD373D5/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Looks great, cheap, light up the case which is all I want. I think they are loud at full power so I have my fan curve set to keep them around %75.
WIMAXIT Portable Touch Monitor, 14 Inch 98% sRGB FHD IPS Computer External Display USB-C Gaming Screen with Type-C Mini HDMI for Laptop PC Xbox PS5, Include Smart Cover（Touch not for Mac OS） https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08JLWNX22/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glc_i_8O9bGbPB7YTBS?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1 , a usb-c right angle adapter, and a left angle adapter for mini hdmi to hdmi! Then wires both to the outside of my pc to plug and power
I have all corsair in my Lian Li build, was tempted to go with Corsair AIO but I found this with one with no logo which I love.
DEEP COOL Castle 360EX WH, Addressable RGB AIO Liquid CPU Cooler, Anti-Leak Technology Inside, Cable Controller and 5V ADD RGB 3-Pin Motherboard Control, TR4/AM4 Supported (Castle 360 EX WH)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07Z8SH6LG/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Thank you so much! The stock FTW3 just doesn't match my PC's aesthetic at all and I've never painted a GPU before so I'm happy it turned out well.
I have a regular USB C cable that keeps it charged plugged into the back of the PC. It stays on even when my PC asleep, the gauges just freeze on the last reading. This method only took me about 30 minutes to setup, I think the raspberry pi method is much more complicated and I think also uses an HDMI slot?
I use this one, uses virtually zero system resources and the android app is highly customizable (colors, layout, sensors, etc).
Server DL - https://www.trigonesoft.com/index.php/download
Android DL - https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.trigonesoft.rsm
Here’s a better picture of the drawers/top.
Basically I took VOVO furniture legs from Amazon, wrapped them in some black matching vinyl and then drilled 4 of them them into each Alex drawers.
The desktop itself is just sitting on top. It weighs about 70lbs just on its own so it will only shift around if I try and move it.
Here’s the one I bought: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007EEW76A/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glc_fabc_zmB.FbV70FTYE
I don’t think it’s yellowish, but it’s a bit glossy compared to the other already white panels of the case. Not really noticeable though unless you look from the top or the back. I tried my best not to overlap layers, so there isn’t much of that, but if I look close enough I can see where a strip of vinyl ends and another strip begins. It’s totally not perfect, but cool with me till they hopefully sell the Snow! Best of luck and post a pic of your build when you’re done!
The 2TB version is actually $399. I got two of the 1TB for $199 each. The speeds are INSANE, esp. if you raid.
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They are These! however i received two packs (you have to buy a pack for each 8 pin) that had hard plastic backs and one that had soft adhesive backs. The plastic looks way better (what is pictured here). I returned three trying to get another plastic and never got one again, i ended up pulling off the adhesive and sitting the plastic on the other version.
Yeah, I ran into that issue since I only have 2 internal USB 2.0 headers on my motherboard but I have an NZXT Z73 AIO, the Unifan controller and a Corsair iCue controller.
For now I locked the Corsair LL120 fans I have into a solid color (I do plan to get more Unifans when the single units are back in-stock).
I did order some janky looking USB cable that I'm going to route from the outside to the inside of my case (no idea how well it will work, if at all). (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07Q8TC2ZM/)
There are internal splitters/hubs on Amazon but those seem to be very sketchy and I've read reviews where folks say those have burnt out their internal USB headers. The NZXT one seems fine but it's not in-stock on Amazon I think so I passed on that option for the time being.
Easily done with the vertical GPU mount adapter they make specifically for the Mini. It includes the riser cable. You just remove the stock rear panel (it's modular, easy to swap out) and replace it with this panel.
You could try one of the third party adapters like this. It's more flexible at the point of insertion, so should allow for the clearance you need. I have no idea if they're more prone to melting,, though.
It doesn't come with any fans, no. And with the standard O11D it only fits 9 fans - the rear spot to the left of the board isn't large enough for a fan.
Good choice on the fans, I like the MF120s. With 9 fans you may not be able to drive the RGB off a single RGB header, so plan on either getting a powered RGB splitter like this, or split them up between two different headers if your motherboard has more than one.
Yeah, Have the Case being Delivered today. Is there anyone in the US that sells it?
will the below one work?
https://www.amazon.com/Premium-4-0-Black-Extender-Riser/dp/B094YGTPNH
u/LIANLI_TECHSUPPORT
Not OP but it looks to be this Asus ROG Strix Z690
The other thing you can do is buy a couple sets of cheap plastic bending forms like these and once you measure, you can screw/clamp them to a board to create custom fixtures for each run, you just have to be careful with the heat gun because the plastic bending forms can melt and deform too, I learned that the hard way lol. Good luck! Luckily tubing is fairly cheap compared to everything else in the loop so you can afford to screw up sometimes.
>Agreed. I don't know why they made them compatible but function separately. Here's a link to the V2 controller: https://www.amazon.com/Lian-Li-Strimer-L-Connect-Controller/dp/B09ZKSPKCF/ref=asc\_df\_B09ZKSPKCF/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=598290034930&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=10581902968936368971&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&am...
and the website is not very clear on why need separate and which version support it, they should make it work with default controller since we already support their products
Agreed. I don't know why they made them compatible but function separately. Here's a link to the V2 controller: https://www.amazon.com/Lian-Li-Strimer-L-Connect-Controller/dp/B09ZKSPKCF/ref=asc_df_B09ZKSPKCF/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=598290034930&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=10581902968936368971&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&...
sorry, I remember the magic sauce now. I brought those lights into the razer controller.
https://www.amazon.com/Razer-Chroma-Addressable-Controller-Compatibility/dp/B08K3TYWP6
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SL controller to razer controller gave me the ability to control the fans. once they are on the controller you can set the number of LEDs per port.
>A 360mm radiator will fit behind an upright card, but it is extremely
tight and makes cable management a nightmare. If your radiator is a
thick boy (arctic liquid or similar) there is zero chance it fits. Also,
you can only run barbs up due to the mount.
Will the Arctic Liquid Freezer II 360 fit in the side area as is, i.e., without anything else there? I've ordered the Lian Li O11D EVO and I am looking to get the Arctic liquid cooler, but want to make sure it will fit since it's a thick radiator.
there is a verticle mount kit for the O11D Mini, bit pricy but worth it
I struggled to fit in a standard DP and HDMI cable so I resorted to getting new cables from Amazon and they work perfectly fine and fit like a glove. If anything, now I have too much free space there and wish I could shorten the bracket somehow.
Below are the links to the cables I bought and I'll share an image of the connections later on today when I get back home.
LINKUP - Ultra High-Speed HDMI... https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B087WL9RS5
Right Angle Displayport 1.4 Cable... https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B08F7DCWLF
If it’s giving you issues, or if you think it will in the future, reroute the power button. Instead of using the one on the case, unplug it from the motherboard and plug in something else. You can get creative with it. I’ve a “push to start” button that I routed from the motherboard, out the back of the pc, and mounted under my desk.
https://www.amazon.com/DKE-Button-Desktop-Computer-Supplies/dp/B09N3HTLWD
I did find it! Or at least I think I did - it's 30 cm but close enough.
OR
you can use one of these and add it to your pcie slot and connect the front panel connector to that.
If I have a board that doesn't support that plug, I generally just consider the front panel USB-C port non-functional and ignore it. If you're feeling sparky and really want it working, something like this adapter will take care of it.
This connector is normally used for front or top high-speed USB type-C ports. If your motherboard doesn't have that connector but has free USB headers, you can find adapters for different types of motherboard headers online. Search for "USB Type E" on your favourite shopping site.
An example of a common type of USB 3.0 header to Type E:
Type E adapter
I bought this cable as most other DP cables had longer ends and it works great for my upright setup. A 90 adapter might cause more issues as there really isn't a lot of room to work with.
Could be a dead USB header on your board. You can troubleshoot it by trying another internal USB 2.0 device if you have one. You could try using one of these from the rear I/O back into the case. Not ideal, but way cheaper than replacing your board. And there are all kinds of other internal USB adapters that add an extra 9-pin header, depending on what you have available on your board. Def try updating firmware firs too.
hi ya, I have used a internal ARGB hub which is to provide sufficient power to my fans at the top, bottom and back. This is what I've plug in https://www.amazon.com/Splitter-PMMA-Magnetic-Standoff-Controller/dp/B07T58RVZ7/ref=sr\_1\_9?crid=2M84JDN57KPU&keywords=argb+hub&qid=1667167862&qu=eyJxc2MiOiI1LjE5IiwicXNhIjoiNC44NCIsInFzcCI6IjQuNzQifQ%3D%3D&sprefix=argb+hub%2Caps%...
Make sure you figure out what size screws your radiator uses, some use 6-32 UNC, but most use M4 metric screws. Then buy a screw kit from Amazon like this one, it will have the various lengths needed, typically you will use 30mm long screws to fasten fans to a radiator, but you'll need slightly longer ones (usually 35mm) for the ones that also attach it to the case to account for the sheet metal, 35mm can sometimes be a bit too long, so it's also a good idea to have some washers on hand to be sure you don't pierce your radiator tubes. I bought this washer kit and it's been very useful for stuff like this.
The Lian Li 60 cm one, link here
Too bad the o11d upright kit only gives a 40cm one, so extra money spent for the clean look
Thanks and yeah, I actually bought the og O11 Dynamic first and it took me all the way to the very end, when I went to slide in the side glass panel, that I realized the card wouldnt fit lol.
I have this cable from amazon for the 3090 ti...I think its different from the one that your mentioning and I didnt have to change my psu or anything.
https://www.amazon.com/Phanteks-PH-VGPUKT4-0_03-Vertical-Bracket-220mm/dp/B09S1CCZ2H
This is the one I bought for my RTX 3080 using the Lian Li O11 Dynamic Regular
Here: Amazon Canada
Got mine there and no problem on the shipping. Had to wait a bit but got the official piece for my O11. Shipped to Montreal/Canada with no problem.
You can see it in my older post in my profile if needed.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08QDKGCCW?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details
no pics of the back until my cablemods 16 pin 600 watt pci e cable arrives, no way im showing off that rats nest with all those pci e cables that are needed to feed the 4090,lol
Get these all-white sleeved extensions, they also have white connectors too, perfect for an all-white build like this.
Yeah Sure, it‘s the NZXT Internal USB HUB. Thats the Amazon Link: https://www.amazon.de/Nzxt-Interner-USB-Hub-AC-IUSBH-M3-Magnetgehäuse/dp/B08VS5LNMS/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?crid=2FC0IF9XY7ZE7&keywords=nzxt+usb+hub&qid=1666008118&qu=eyJxc2MiOiIxLjg5IiwicXNhIjoiMS4wMiIsInFzcCI6IjAuNzcifQ%3D%3D&sprefix=nzxt...
Don't think they sell it anymore but this is the closest thing I could find that is similar. https://www.amazon.com/YATENG-Graphics-Anodized-Aerospace-Aluminum/dp/B07S7ZYF6L/ref=sr\_1\_23?crid=3PUIJDWUBGDZ&keywords=upHere+Graphics+Card+GPU+Brace+Support+Video+Card+Sag+Holder%2FHolster+Bracket%2C+Anodized+Aerospace+Aluminum+Silver+%28G...
It has to be the USB connection. Make sure the USB cable from the pump is properly plugged into the internal USB 2.0 header on your motherboard. If that doesn't work, try another internal USB device (if you have one) to see if it's a dead header on your board or if it's the LCD screen itself. Also, you could buy this adapter and just plug it into a regular USB 2.0 port somewhere (if you're sure the LCD screen works), this isn't exactly the most practical thing, and if it doesn't work just return the adapter.
So I just need to buy this and I'm fine?
I believe so, https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B08CZ6NM4W/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1 is the link to the product I bought for the 360mm Galahad and they look pretty close to the 120 AL
Get rid of the controller and replace it with something like this https://smile.amazon.com/Addressable-Lighting-Magnetic-backplane-Addressble/dp/B08JQFKXYK
Send the output of that to 1 fan header and 1 ARGB header on your motherboard and just control fans with FanControl and RGB with your motherboard software or SignalRGB (if supported) It'll work so much more easily and you won't have to rely on Lian-Li
I would highly advise getting rid of L-Connect altogether.
Return 1 set of 3 and buy 3 individual ones, those come with the 3-pin ARGB + 4-pin PWM instead of the single connector that you can use into something like this that then gets controlled via your motherboard.
L-Connect is a real pain with the quirks of using it via USB + the app is far from perfect, this will allow you to just use your motherboard control instead, which is much more consistent.
I've used this bracket in several builds, easy to install and very solidly built. There's usually an aRGB header along the bottom of the motherboard you can connect its lighting to, or they make a non-RGB version if you prefer.
Definitely run a second GPU power cable - it's probably fine, but it's just as easy to use separate cables and be certain. And I'd run them under the GPU, not over the top, unless you have Strimers or have an aesthetic need to run them over the top.
With all the Corsair/Asus hardware, I'd have gone with Corsair fans just to keep everything under iCUE control. But I might be wrong, those fans look damn good.
If you're not going to be adding more RAM, I'd get one of these Lighting Enhancement Kits, basically dummy sticks just to fill out the look.
If this is your first build, you did a damn good job!
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You should take the measures but it's not a great problem, they are also magnetic so they will fit easily
These constantly get high marks from people because they're easy to use. Bitwit also recommends them...but there are plenty of different brands out there.
No worries!
If you do go the non-LED path. There's a 16AWG (thicker) version of the 12-pin cable that matches the other cables I linked more exactly.
I added a USB expansion card to my vertical GPU build, I used one of these and ran it back into the rear cabinet and just house the expansion card in the back there, or you can try putting in one of these half-height cards and see if it will still fit behind the vertical GPU.
This guy does a great vid on different configurations.
With that said, my build is almost identical to yours, Same chip, same card, same aio. I have the AL fans and an MSI mobo though. I run my GPU in stock horizontal position. I have zero issues with temps. Under full load, GPU runs in the high 60's, and occasionally low 70's depending on the game. CPU was hitting about the same, until I added [https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0B5Q34SZ1/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1](this). Highest I've seen now is about 64'ish.
I had the same issue. I had to get these
ZYAMY 2pcs USB 3.0 90 Degree... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B095Y1FYHS?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
And
CERRXIAN 90 Degree USB Type E... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B098732L37?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
It sucks. I have a screwdriver kit that has this flexible shaft, it's very handy in situations like that.
I had this same problem. Switching usb ports on the motherboard fixed the problem. If that isn't working maybe you have to much running on that usb hub. I would try using a usb 9 pin to usb type A adapter like this https://www.amazon.com/CRJ-9-Pin-Dupont-Header-Single/dp/B07Q4QZW57 and see if that fixes your problem
White cat5 cable and I got this on Amazon. Use Velcro ties to group them together then put this over it.
Alex Tech 10ft - 1 inch Cord... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08PFCKM2S?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
I usually just use Asia Horse cable extensions, but my power supply is the longer kind so I had to get Corsair's cable mods for my GPU for cable management purposes. Both kinds are linked below.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07L678HVM?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07C735N9C?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
I bought this one: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08CVQ5SD9/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1&pldnSite=1
Tho i had to cut away some pieces of the case to make it fit. Had to make measurements and plan a lot before i started cutting. Since there are no turning back after the first cut.
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Wouldn't it be hard to use a touch screen with this case? The monitor doesn't cover the entire front, and the front glass act as a noise reduction.
Where do i even start... There are 2 ways to do this.
1: (The way i have seen most do it)
You can get the monitor and not cut or do anything inside the case. But it will leave you with about 1-1,5cm of space between the glass and the monitor
You also have to find a way to make it stable, something that prevents it to move backwards.
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2: The way i did it. To make it closer to the glass
I started with cutting out the "frame" around the rgb strip in the front. (Inside the case ofc)
Had to remove it since it prevents me to push the monitor all the way up to the glass, i think i have a way to get the rgb strip back. But i need to mod the rgb strip a bit.
After that i padded the entire inside of the case, that the monitor is pushing up against. To prevent vibrating sounds, or damage the monitor.
I made the fit quite tight. The monitor is 22cm and i made space for 21,5 with the paddings. So its 0,5 cm of paddings that prevent it to go backwards.
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The glass of the case is longer than the monitor. So i added some 3M tape on the top and bottom to close the gap , and also added a layer of paddings on the tape. That the monitor is resting on.
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The way i did it comes with some risks after you start cutting into the case, there is no turning back. And it requires a lot of measurements and planning to make it look good. Was a super scary projekt but it turned out great in the end.
You could go with a 14" monitor instead, that way you dont need to mod the case. But you will have a bigger gap of glass you need to cover up.
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Think that's it, hit me up if there is something you are wondering about :)
https://www.amazon.com/LIAN-Strimer-Plus-Pin-PW8-PV2/dp/B09ZRP4K8B/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?crid=1KFFIYLGDCAP9&keywords=lian+li+strimer+plus+v2&qid=1660336888&sprefix=lian+li+%2Caps%2C176&sr=8-2 There you go, upper one is 24-pin and other is 2x8-pin
I buy this cables and i really like them. Good quality to
https://www.amazon.co.uk/EZDIY-FAB-Sleeved-Cable-Extension-Combs-Black/dp/B078WS5FYV/ref=sr\_1\_2\_sspa?crid=38B089ZTL1HRP&keywords=EZDIY-FAB+MOD+Sleeved+Cable&qid=1659596531&sprefix=ezdiy-fab+mod+sleeved+cable%2Caps%2C91&sr=8-2-sp...
you can use a hub like this, which has both.
I don´t own that case, but I looked through the manual and it seems, it does not come with a hub. which is kind of sad at that price point. they could at least add the same, small hub from the Lancool215.
Make sure the front panel audio cable is plugged into your motherboard. If you can't get it to work, you can always buy one of these USB sound cards and use that instead, they work just fine, I have a couple of them to provide the audio signal to my bass shakers.
I have the same mobo, and encountered this same problem when doing this build with 2 hubs + 1 hub for the strimers.
I used this internal USB splitter, and has been working well so far.
https://www.amazon.ca/Header-Extension-Splitter-Connector-Adapter/dp/B076Q8685Y
You can buy an internal USB 2.0 splitter from Amazon that will work.
It’s more a hub than a splitter. It gives you extra usb connectors
You are talking about the riser going to the upright mount where the side intake fans are, and not the vertical mount right?
Slot 2 most likely is 8x, not 16x. The 600mm gen4 riser actually drops the card to gen3 16x speeds of 16GB/s, from 32GB/s. But there really isn't a noticeable difference, even through benchmarks. But if you were to plug into slot 2 it might be half of that 8x speed, theoretically?
Here are the cables I used DGHUMEN DisplayPort Extension... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08JV7RPVS?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
For sure. After seeing how much a closed case chokes off airflow, esp with dust filters, I'm doing my next build in an open air chassis, closed cases drastically affect airflow so much, and I'd def prefer the unrestricted airflow and lower temps. I also have one of these Amazon air dusters that works great for giving things a quick dusting. Well worth the $$
Could maybe try this: https://www.amazon.com/EZDIY-FAB-Converter-Transfer-Splitter-Motherboard/dp/B082KJH2T3
or this: https://www.amazon.com/DeePCool-Convertor-TransferHub-Motherboard-Non-Compatible/dp/B09ZYDB4X8
Have no idea what will happend when you plug the Uni-Hub into it though.
I'm pretty sure it was this one. I've since moved to a more minimal small form case and now use a stream deck to monitor on my desktop
https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.slash.batterychargelimit&hl=en_US&gl=US
You need root on your android. Hope this helps!