What are /r/littlebritishcars' favorite Products & Services?

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I've got those on my Toyota Matrix, another car people tend to overlook. They are indeed quite loud. For the Spitfire, I went with the FIAMM option. They both do the job of getting the attention of some fool staring at their phone.

Something else to consider: rigging up your low beams into daytime driving lights. All it took for me was a switch and a relay and about 30 minutes. A third brake light mounted on the trunk lid keeps people off your ass, too.

https://www.amazon.com/Plastic-Duct-Hose-Long-91-54P/dp/B00LEV8SX0

DIY with something like this. Not sure exactly what the size is for what you are trying to do, but there is a start.

Just go on amazon and look for fuse boxes. There are lots available for custom car applications, trailers, and motorcycles as well as marine applications (water-proof with high grade connections).

The mentioned VB block is 1. from VB and 2. Twice the price of the same block from somewhere like Summit.

There are a lot of options

https://www.amazon.com/Blue-Sea-Systems-Blade-Block/dp/B001P6FTHC/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1503421251&sr=8-5&keywords=fuse+box

another smaller type:

https://www.amazon.com/KKmoon-DC12V-Holder-Warning-Marine/dp/B01J3R8KS4/ref=sr_1_9?ie=UTF8&qid=1503421251&sr=8-9&keywords=fuse+box

The entire surface does not need to be flat, the header only needs a small flat surface around each exhaust port. Consider the gaskets used in a 2-bolt or 3-bolt exhaust flange. Their surface area is also very small.

Take a look at this exhaust gasket. It shows how little sealing area is actually needed for sealing - vs the extra material that lets you hang the gasket on the studs for easier installation, and helps keep everything lined up properly while you torque down the nuts.

https://www.amazon.com/ACDelco-12617944-Original-Equipment-Manifold/dp/B007Q13TQI

You could probably cut out the four circular areas of that gasket and install them as four small round header gaskets and they would work fine. But they would be a pain in the butt to install.

The Spitfire gaskets have a lot more material, but they combine intake and exhaust gasket in one piece and the result is a nearly rectangular gasket. Some of the gasket actually seals the intake and exhaust, and some of the gasket is just along for the ride.

Buy this:

https://www.amazon.com/Triumph-Spitfire-6281-Haynes-Manuals/dp/1850100225

Haynes manuals for older cars are excellent. My first car was an MGB and I completely rebuilt it using a Haynes manual. I cannot recommend them highly enough.

Try out one of these. I hear good things for getting off glue without removing the paint underneath but I haven't used one before.

Ah yes, pugs :)

I just got my sample of Wallaby Clay yesterday. The color seems pretty close to the piece of original Autumn Leaf I have, however the texture is a lot smoother than the original.

I've reached out to the Cognac Brown seller to see about a sample. Photos just don't always work that well to make a match. A few I've ordered were quite different when I saw the actual material sample. From the photos at least it has a rougher texture which matches more like the original.

It also seems available on Amazon at https://www.amazon.com/Leather-Synthetic-Pleather-Madison-Upholstery/dp/B01M7MAH83?th=1

Zmoon Motorcycle LED Driving Fog Lights 60W Amber and White Projector Lights 1.3" Aux Spotlight, Compatible with Harley Davidson/E-Bike/Jeep/Pickup Trucks/SUV/Boats etc. (2 Pack) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08GS4QTZN/

I got this cheap oil pressure gauge from Amazon last year and it's been flawless so far on my daily. My only complaint is the back lighting is bright as hell and you can dim it besides spraying some VHT on the lense. Chinese stuff is decent nowadays.

That might be it if it’s an original head gasket. I’ve had good luck with this kit. CANTESCO K801S Dye Penetrant Kit, Solvent Removable, 8 Can Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00T46ZDLW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_xeTqFbMNSQQ40

It does not happen specifically when I drive and I have checked while leaving the car on the slight banks on both side of the road. I think I am at the point where it's a midget and the engine is a little loud and is going to vibrate the car a little bit. This also makes the mirrors mostly useless, but who needs mirrors when you have the top down. I should probably still get them checked though at some point. The shocks are pretty stiff, but I think that is how it is supposed to go.

I found this kilmat stuff on Amazon that looks like it has good reviews and is a little thicket than the b-quiet extreme for $60. I think I am going to go with that unless anyone has some objections that reads the thread. I'm not too worried about the goo. My car doesn't even have carpet right now and is probably the worst midget in the country currently in terms of looks. I bought some carpet on ebay that I will install also so this mat plus the carpet should improve it a lot.

Pic of the side of the car rn: https://imgur.com/qY9QwJA

This is the coil that should be on there. Anything else is overkill. Every big healey that comes in our shop with ignition issues usually has some big bad coil on there, and it just makes things worse.

No need to totally strip the paint, but sand\soda\bead blasting is your friend on a lot of that. If the base is adhered to the metal and there is no rust, you can get away with a good thorough scuff and going over the top. But as he said the quality is directly tied to how deep you go \ how close to bare metal you get.

To go with his pictures comment - I would seriously suggest buying a "tough" digital camera for the garage. I have a waterproof \ shockproof camera that is dedicated to my garage projects. It can be dropped 10-12 ft onto concrete with no problem, or submersed in water to 33 feet (or at least enough to clean it in the sink between projects). I was also sure to get one that had a good macro on it so that I can take pics of very small parts as well. If its a project you're doing yourself, and you're taking something apart for the first time, and it may be weeks or months or longer before you put something back - having photos that show how something goes back together is invaluable.

I personally recommend the Panasonic Lumix series of tough cameras, which go about $200 in the US.

I used the Mityvac bleeder run off my air compressor. Makes for quick work, almost too quick and it's pretty easy to accidentally drain the master cylinder and force you to start all over again.

http://www.amazon.com/Mityvac-6830-Brake-Bleeder/dp/B000JFN9WC/ref=sr_1_10?s=automotive

There are silicone release agents on the rubber, alcohol will generally get them off. In addition you can go over the area carefully with a map torch to burn off any residue. Not all glues are the same, many suck. I've never had any trouble with 3m's stuff.