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For that distance and bandwidth you probably need an active cable. Thunderbolt/USBc is a shitshow of conflicting terminologies and products.
The plus side is that you know the card and monitors work, you just need to drop the money for a proper cable.
I wish I could recommend the belkins, but mine started getting inconsistent at about 7 months old.
Edit: this should work, because it’s certified by intel.
[Intel Thunderbolt Certified] Cable Matters 40Gbps Active USB C Thunderbolt 4 Cable 6.6 ft with 100W Charging and 8K Video - Universally Compatible with USB-C, USB4, and Thunderbolt 3 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B084Z65YJQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_H41ERT6K59TRYSXC7NN1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Just get the $14 pci card from Amazon. It works perfectly. They have dual ones for like $50.
Personally I’d boot Mac OS from NVME and run windows on an SSD.
First of all, Apple does not limit the RAM you can put in the 5,1, I have crucial ballistix LED ram in mine.
There are several items in the spec that can help you understand whether the ram will be compatible and whether it is desirable at a specific price range to enable you to comparison shop effectively:
Version:
- Noted DDRX where X is an integer. Only DDR3 is compatible with the 5,1.
How fast it is:
- Frequency, expressed in MHz or PC3-XXXXX where XXXXX is an integer. You want this to be te highest speed supported by your processor (actually memory subsystem). It's either 1066 MHz or 1333 MHz if you have one of the latest generation 5,1 with a x56XX processor. Faster ram will automatically down clock if the processor does not support its full speed, and the processor will down clock its ram polling frequency if slow ram is present.
- time to operate CAS latencies XX-XX-XX-XX where the different XX'es show how fast frequent ram operations are, expressed in cycles. Schematically, RAM with 667Mhz and a CAS read latency of 4 will spend 4/667000000 seconds to read something.
Server stuff (this computer is a workstation so it supports this) :
- Buffered/Unbuffered. The buffer will help alleviate the computer's memory controller by not reading directly, instead caching all reads before they go out, at the expense of adding some latency to each read. Buffered memory is both slower and usually costlier. You want unbuffered memory if possible.
- ECC/non-ECC: whether there is an extra bit for every byte for error code correction for when calculations need to be exact. This usually adds to the price.
You should be able to use the card. What you lose is the ability for boot screens which it doesn't seem like you will need it. In any case, should you need those boot screens, I highly recommend installing OpenCore Bootloader which works flawlessly.
Side note: I just installed an RX 580 and bought an EVGA Powerlink for the card to ensure that the exact power demanded by the card is supplied. It's pretty cheap. EVGA Powerlink. This allows the Mac Pro to balance the power draw from the mini-PCIe connectors to prevent potential shutdowns and also prolonging the backplane.
Sort of... You can bypass it in the installer. I'm still on HFS+ on my High Sierra install, as APFS has been a bit quirky for me at work on my iMac.
there are many varieties but this is the Wifi/Bluetooth Card I use often:
otherwise yes, search a little more you can get one to fit with an adapter, in the OG wifi card spot, and comes with an odd cable to connect the bluetooth portion to power on the Mac Pro.
Maybe try some conductive tape. Just make sure it only touches one side of the 2032.
https://www.amazon.com/Conductive-Double-Sided-Shielding-Electrical-Grounding/dp/B087CTGYQR/
I want to thank everyone that gave me tips on how to solve the issues I was facing. The solution that worked for me came from an eBay seller of Mac Pro WiFi cards. Steps here from them here:
boot to recovery mode, disable SIP , instruction that how to : http://osxdaily.com/2015/10/05/disable-rootless-system-integrity-protection-mac-os-x/
reboot to normal user account, Open Terminal & run command:
“ sudo /usr/libexec/PlistBuddy -c "Set:Mac-F221BEC8:ContinuitySupport true" "/System/Library/Frameworks/IOBluetooth.framework/Versions/A/Resources/SystemParameters.plist "
purpose of this command is add your Mac to the “ whitelist of the OS “, because Classic Mac Pro not officially support continuity, handoff stuffs
Logout iCloud , then reboot to recovery mode again & enable SIP
then reboot to normal user account, Login iCloud , wait for few mins , continuity, handoff should work
Most intel macs will boot windows natively, if you have access to a device that emulates a CD drive over USB then you can easily boot the windows installer.
Failing that simply setup a hard drive in another computer with windows 10 and move it to the Mac - it'll boot cleanly.
Apple consider the cheesegrater Mac's vintage, so expect fewer updates in the future.
You can redownload iTunes, and I'm sure Photos is out there somewhere as well.
Unless your friend did anything unordinary to the El Capitan, it's not hacked per se, only a slightly tweaked to boot. It should be completely genuine and full macOS, just a little outdated. To be sure, the best course of action would of course be to perform a clean install, but if you lack a native GPU (can't see the boot screen), that might be not be a worthwhile risk.
Regarding wifi, that depends. Are you sure you have an Airport card? They can be valuable, and didn't come in stock configuration. If you're talking about anything else, Macs require drivers the same as PCs. I haven't had any luck with my USB wifi-dongles (Buffalo and TP-Link), but compatible PCIe cards tend to be very affordable. To clarify, there's no inherent reason why wifi wouldn't work with El Capitan, you just need the right, working hardware.
Be extremely careful when installing updates from the Appstore. The Security update 2018-004 and anything newer is bound to break your OS and leave the system in a boot loop. Once you get things properly up and running, my recommendation is to have an older macOS as a backup, they are handy for fixing various issues, and seem to be the easiest way to successfully update the firmware.
Early 2008 aka 3,1 can use the same RAM and GPU as 1,1. Just be sure to consult the instructions when installing the RAM, incorrect configuration will result in unnecessary issues. The best and likely cheapest upgrade you can do right now for the benefit of both of your system would be to get a native GPU. Just pick whatever you can find for the cheapest, that Radeon should be more than powerful enough for anything you'd want to do on those machines.
Welcome to the community!
Yes, but there is a free version which is just as good.
https://www.realvnc.com/en/connect/
Click VNC connect, click downloads, then click server to download the app for the device you want to connect to, or click viewer for the device you want to connect from.
both are free
This is one that I'm considering for my own 4,1/5,1 : https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08GC6VFF2/ref=ox_sc_act_image_1?smid=A1B5498J9RHINF&psc=1
from what I've read/heard thus far, it works very well, is low-cost, and requires no auxiliary power, so it should be a strong contender for you to consider
Any 3.5 to 2.5 NAS/drive sled adapters will work. Check Amazon and New Egg for low cost options. You need the adapters that will orient the connectors in the right place for a drive sled.
This one is plug and play in my Mac Pro 5,1 so might be the case for yours too. Although the usb type c ports are useless
I believe technically you can't do thunderbolt because it has to be integrated on the motherboard with direct access to the CPU.
You can get a USB 3.2 PCIe card though.
I bought this GT 730 from Amazon for $45 based on a bit of background research and received it today - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01IBC9KYU/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1.
It's a GK208 Kepler-based GT 730. It has a displayport output and a DVI port. With the displayport, it should do 4k/60, which I don't think the 710 can do.
This little guy works great with a 3.5mm TS-plug mic and/or earphones on separate connectors.
I can confirm this card works in the 5,1
Dual NVMe PCIe Adapter, RIITOP M.2 NVMe SSD to PCI-e 3.1 x8/x16 Card Support M.2 (M Key) NVMe SSD 22110/2280/2260/2242/2230 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08P57G1JW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glc_fabc_qlfcGbDE3DSPG
Love the clear side panel, but I would make a small investment in one of these (looks so much cleaner):
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07P82ZH22/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
An RX 580 is the go-to. You'll need one of these to power it. AMD's got new cards coming soon, but I don't enough to know if they'll work with these systems.
I won't be able to answer your first question, but you should contact OWC first and see if they will replace the module. They have a lifetime warranty on RAM (many do) and you should see what they say. Worst they can say is no, which leaves you in your current state.
I just tested and my black OWC heat sink (P/N: OWC1333D3MPE8GB 70587 1214) worked with an A-Tech stick just fine. So I have one OWC and one A-Tech working as a pair, you should be fine. You can get 1333MHz sticks and they will report at 1066MHz no problem, saves you an expense later if you upgrade your processor. So to answer your second question, yes but it needs to be the same size so (4GB or 8GB) and it will be fine. Try and beat this price on eBay, this was the A-Tech I bought off of Amazon for $33 w/ Shipping.
Hope this helps!
I would need a 16 GB DIMM. OWC actually seems to be quite price competitive on those at $94.79. I actually prefer them to Amazon, because Amazon shipping options do not seem to be compatible with my apartment complex. Altho this $60 stick might tempt me: https://www.amazon.com/Tech-PC3-10600-1333Mhz-MacPro5-MD771LL/dp/B01C7YYR4Q/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1524435846&sr=8-4&keywords=1333+mhz+ddr3+memory+module+16gb&refinements=p_n_feature_five_browse-bin%3A677429011
I'll have to call OWC on Monday and see what they have to say.
Not at the moment. However, Inateck sells a card that supposedly works with the 5,1 on Amazon.
I am running DosDude's Catalina on a 2010 Mac 5.1 with this bootable (not all NVME are bootable) NVME, and this Dual PCIe Riser Card. The riser had the highest bandwidth I could find. Being careful to choose an NVME SSD that could match those speeds, it's now much faster than SATA. As far as I know, the dual riser cards will only work if they have an ASM2824 switch, due to bifurcation/drivers.
This one https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004SUO068/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B004SUO068&linkCode=as2&tag=applediscus-20&linkId=5YG2PTMZZHHKJL75&dplnkId=44675a9d-107f-4303-ad39-ecaa1d2206ee&am... got a good suggestion on the apple discussion boards
DeOxit on everything.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08N39YQMP
The RAM contacts. The RAM slots.
The riser tabs.
Sandpaper? Really?
If you only have two cards they should be in the 1 slot on separate risers.
Good tip on parting it out. I see the dual CPU trays going for around $400CAD, but I'd rather see it go to someone complete.
I've got one of these OWC ones for $25 from Amazon in a Mac Pro 5,1:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08LYWDSKJ?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details
With a Samsung 980 1 TB drive bolted to it. The Mac boots from the drive, and in rear/write tests it saturates the Mac's PCIe 2.0 bus, and is about 6x faster than the SATA II ports.
I seem to remember something about fixing the time zone settings , mismatched time preventing the install in some cases. maybe?
I have two systems. Both use this adapter: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01CWWAENG/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I just ran a disk speed test. I had overhyped my speeds and swapped which drive was faster.
The Crucial CT2000P2SSD8 is achieving 1542MB/s write and 1099MB/sec read.
In my other system, the Intel 660p SSDPEKNW020T8X1 is coming in around 1150MB/sec read and write.
At one point I also had a Western Digital SN750 SSD in another Mac Pro. I forget the speeds, I believe they were in the ballpark of 800-1000MB/sec.
>https://www.amazon.com/dp/B014I8UQJY?ref=ppx\_pop\_mob\_ap\_share
Thanks, I keep that in mind. I'll be trying out the Display-Port cable first, but maybe I'll change it to HDMI / DVI if I have any problems:)
If you can't find the wifi card you want, I found a workaround.
I bought this Wifi Extender for like 20 bucks and it plugs ethernet into your tower so you won't need Wifi on the computer, the extender does it for you.
My 5,1 had a working wifi card, but it just got shit reception and slow speeds where I had it. Plugged this in and improved a lot. If you can fix your card, do that, but this is an easy workaround.
I don't have a fix for ya, but I know a workaround.
I have a working wifi card, but for some reason I get spotty reception and VERY slow internet compared to my laptop. So I bought this Wifi extender plug. You just plug it into an outlet, and plug your computer's ethernet into it. Works great, much faster, much more reliable wifi.
I'm assuming you can't connect the display breakout cable to the CMP because there are no 400 ports on the back. There are cheap adapters on Amazon for that...
OWC should work right out of the box, I wouldn't waste any time or money troubleshooting.
Return it, order a cheap sintech adapter
https://www.amazon.com/Sintech-Adapter-Upgrade-2013-2015-MacBook/dp/B01CWWAENG
Toss in a much larger SSD than you could get for the same price as a the 1tb OWC drive.
OWC is overpriced trash 99% of the time.
Ps. I used something similar to this. You’ll need to find the right size
Ooh! I actually solved this problem with my 5,1 yesterday!
Basically I was getting shit internet signal where my tower sits (not sure why, I could get strong signal but speed was super slow), so I bought this Wifi-Range-Extender.
Specifically one with an ethernet thru. So you plug it into any outlet and then you can wire into your mac with an ethernet and let the device be your wifi card. So I set my mac to wired ethernet and it's been working great so far!
The G4 was fairly matte. Probably the G5's, too.
I found this, maybe it'll help? https://www.amazon.com/2-Pack-Anti-Glare-Matte-Screen-Protector-Compatible-for-21-5-Inch-iMac-All-in-Ones-Desktop/dp/B01MXTZERJ
Of course, the benefit of Mac Pros is that you bring your own screen, which can be as matte or reflective as you want.
A regular mini 6 pin to 6 pin PCI will power that card just fine.
This:
TeamProfitcom Dual Mini 6 Pin to 8 Pin PCI Express Video Card Power Adapter Braided Sleeved Cable for Mac Pro Tower/Power Mac G5 15-inches https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07P82ZH22/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_73V78PP5RM4NDP4G76JD?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
It's the Sapphire Radeon 7950 (not Mac edition as linked, but already flashed for boot screen). Seller says it's fully compatible and will be recognized.
This is what I do, yes. Take it outside and blow the dust out of it with a can of compressed air. Not inside your house because the dust (and dog hair, in my house) will just get blown everywhere and end up back inside the case.
If do this often (and don't wanna keep buying cans of duster) you can get a high-powered electric duster, but they can actually kill the bearing in fans because the force of the air is really strong. You need to hold the fans still when using them.
I went through true same process but ended up with an M1 mac mini cause the cost didn’t outweigh the performance. The cheese grater is still a cool rig but the energy consumption is ridiculous for not the best return.
That being said:
Grab this
MSI GeForce GT 730 N730K-2GD3H/LP Graphics Card '2GB DDR3, 902MHz, Low Consumption, VGA, DVI-D, HDMI, HTPC, Silent Passive Fanless Cooling System' https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B015T3TDR8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_2MBTJANA4KDJGJRT34PW
Test to see the mac works, then return it.
Then go and grab a sapphire Radeon 470, it can be the cheapest but approachable card, I made my rig with that in the end and works perfectly ootb. Last year the most I got up to was big sur and didn’t wanna spend any more money so I gave into M1.
Make sure your monitor supports both displayport models as older cards don’t support newer monitors. I ran into this problem when finding a 4K display compatible with a card, which led me to sapphire Radeon cards.
You need an active adapter.
Plugable Active Mini DisplayPort (Thunderbolt 2) to HDMI 2.0 Adapter (Supports Mac, Windows, Linux and Displays up to 4k UHD 3840x2160@60Hz) https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B00S0BWR2K/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_P5D1SZ4C369FEE1B6W8B
Here's a mini 6 pin to 8 pin cable. Then get a mini 6 pin to 6 pin cable.
I'm not an expert, but the internet says that card maxes out at 262 watts, and I think 2 power cables + the PCIe slot can provide 75 watts each, 225 total.
So the card can't use as much power as it wants to which might make the system unstable/kill the psu. You could do a Pixlas mod, but that is outside of my experience. You might also be able to tap into the power cable in the optical drive bay, but I'm not sure.
You definitely want
- more RAM (IIRC up to 32GB are supported)
- a SSD (preferably using an adapter card for a M.2 for better performance)
- likely a better GPU but I'd hold out on that until supply chains normalize a bit. Shitcoin miners and covid disruptions have completely messed up everything. You absolutely want an AMD GPU as you can count the number of NVIDIA cards with macOS support on one hand. Don't go for top-of-the-line GPU models either, you're stuck with PCI Express 3.0 on the old rigs and the power supply is limited (300W if you use this cable).
What you don't want is
- Thunderbolt cards (these are a hassle to set up on the OS side and half the chip flashers on ebay/amazon will fry your chip)
- using the machine as a VM host for gaming workloads as the Intel 5520 chipset has a hardware defect and can't do interrupt remapping which is necessary for PCI passthrough.
You need a 12+16pin enclosure. I almost bought one because I wanted to try and recover data from it when I replaced it. USB C 3.0 Enclosure for 12+16 PIN MacBook Flash SSDs, PCle SSDs Enclosure Supports for 2013-2017 MacBook Air, 2013-2015 MacBook Pro Retina, 2013-2014 iMac, 2013 Mac Pro, 2014 Mac Mini https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09Q36T2Y9/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_1Q4TND8GJ407JJB62W05
I've been running 27" 2560x1440 + 25" 2560x1440 via thunderbolt 2 (mini displayport) to DisplayPort without problem for a few years now. Mini DisplayPort to DisplayPort should be working in your case. This is the one I'm using https://www.amazon.com/Mini-DisplayPort-HDMI-DVI-JDA173/dp/B071K9GXR7
r/buildapcsales has an SSD section. If you don't need 1.5+GBPS speed, getting basically any SSD and a 2.5->3.5 adapter on Amazon will be fine.
As you mentioned, it doesn't work with macOS, the only elago capture device that has macOS support is the elago camlink 4k to my knowledge. There's some questionable Amazon cards that may or may not work like this
https://www.amazon.com/Pass-Through-Grabber-1080p60fps-Livestream-Nintendo/dp/B09C4FFZNX
But nothing that I've seen confirmed working under macOS. The PCIe Elago cards want somewhat recent GPUs + later Gen CPUs. It's unclear if they need specific features or not.
As far as streaming, can't comment I neither make nor watch any but from my understanding, its entirely Windows dominated.
Without knowing exactly why it's going black it's hard to find a workaround. One thing that might help is disabling system integrity protection (assuming you're using El Capitan) see here. This is generally a bad idea, but I do it anyway then use an apple script to call command line functions to reboot to Windows. Don't know if that will help, I assume not actually, but it's something to try.
I know when I got faster RAM for my 4,1->5,1 I had to reset either the PRAM or SMC so you might try that.
https://thenextweb.com/lifehacks/2017/06/14/how-when-why-to-reset-the-pram-smc-on-your-mac/
If you haven't seen it, this list of Mac-compatible graphics cards might be useful: http://www.tonymacx86.com/building-customac-buyers-guide-january-2016.html#Graphics_Cards
Also: http://www.tonymacx86.com/graphics/183617-read-me-first-graphics-setup-troubleshooting.html
I’ve grown fond of this M.2 adapter ($18) in the cMP 5,1. Really handy for cloning drives when upgrading from SATA M.2 to NVMe. The SATA connection plugs into its own port, so it doesn’t share the PCIe connection. There is also a less expensive one ($13) from the same brand that is just a NVMe adaptor.
So if you want to go the budget route - I recommend this Chinese brand because it’s inexpensive, I know it fits and functions in a cMP, and I’ve purchased 5 of them with no defects.
I should point out most mix and match ports are USB 3.0 speeds (AKA USB 3.2 Gen 1 and USB 3.1 Gen 1, all the same thing). There are a few like the Febsmart that advertises macOS compatibility and Gen 2 speeds.
I've had this card for a couple of weeks and have had no issues with it. I've ran Windows through an external SSD and it worked just fine. I've never tried them all at once (just 2A/1C), but if it's mainly peripherals you'll be fine. My monitor takes up one port, which has my mouse and keyboard connected to it and haven't dealt with any sleep/wake issues.
Here you go. I believe this is the pic you're looking for - it's from Apple's official marketing for the 2013 MP.
Reset the PRAM and the SMC. I'd put the SSD back in, slow boot ups can be a symptom that the hard disk is dying. If you can get it to boot at all then check the disk's SMART status.
Let me know if that doesn't work.
You shouldn't have to install any drivers, as OS X should have a good set in there by default. If you're wanting to run Windows at any point, there's an awesome utility called BootChamp (http://www.macupdate.com/app/mac/28468/bootchamp) that will automatically switch you from OS X to Windows without you needing to see or select anything upon bootup. The only reason you'd need to flash the card or purchase an actual Mac version would be if you absolutely must see the boot screen, otherwise you're good to go. I've been running Lion (10.7.5) on a 2006 Mac Pro with a GTX 570 like this for several years without issue. Hope this helps!
Well hell. You are right. Can't get USB 3 to work either. USB 2 works on the port I have connected to the BT header, but I suspect that is wired straight through to the TB jack.
It sort of makes sense. In reading about recent Thunderbolt changes, they have added a "USBOnly" security level to guard against people walking up to your computer and plugging in a TB device, and it could then access memory via the DMA features.
Since Ubuntu can't figure out the security level of the card, it must be defaulting to disabling everything, including USB 3.
I had high hopes the config file I added would disable all security, but it didn't. https://www.kernel.org/doc/html/latest/admin-guide/thunderbolt.html
I'm not sure about needing 3 cards... it does make sense if you were trying to manage it via GUI though. One would have to be assigned to the host. I'm trying to remember what Linus did with his "7 gamers, one CPU" setup... if he had an 8th card, or if he was using command line. Of course that was a different KVM though... A VM on top of Unraid?
Let me know if you manage to get in touch with the eGPU.io user that had the patch. I'd be willing to use whatever version of Linux he used to see if this will work.
I had to know. So - At idle, 24/7, 10c per KWH it'll be $145/year. If it's on full-bore, and electricity costs 15c, then $420. Raspberry pi would cost $5/year. New Raspberry pis are surprisingly capable. Though in a render test, it was gonna take 5 hours, and I expect your 3,1 to take maybe 15-40minutes. The pi crashed fairly early on, but I was blown away it would even try.
Thank you for your super in-depth review on the Mac Pro recently!!!!!!
I have a very specific problem and sorry it is a bit off-topic and sorry for my english, but I'm not sure who should I talk to:
The Audio Visual Technician industry has been waiting Apple to support frame-sync/genlock output from its display card, and currently all commercial media server are running on Windows OS because of the lack of this feature.
Without frame-sync/genlocked output, each HDMI/DisplayPort output can "drift" a little bit in milliseconds and will be noticeable when we are using multiple outputs to "stitch" a large screen.
Frame-sync issue video: https://gofile.io/?c=AbXrI6 (using 3 HDMI output, Left-Middle-Right, you can notice the left output "drifted" away)
​
Is it possible for you to ask Apple to consider adding frame-sync capability into their development roadmap? With the Infinity Fabric Link I guess it should be possible to do now in hardware level? Especially across different display cards.
I'm sure many of us will buy the Mac Pro without a doubt if it is possible to do 12 * 4K frame-synchronized output, by using 2 * Vega II.
If across display cards is a bit too much, then just single GPU with 6 * frame-synchronized output is also very convincing (though not that disruptive to the current commercial market)
an AV Tech who worked with the Apple Keynote event shared that actually Apple had being using the frame-sync solution internally for the large screen behind the presenter, but he guess the solution is not released for public use only.
Thank you for taking the time to read this
>26TB
I'm currently reading a book written in 2001, and the author makes a staggering parallel to "the massive 30TB server" which one of his subjects uses to perform studies on emergent phenomena; that twenty year old server took up hundreds of cubic feet...
I don't see a heat sink on that card. Last I checked I was getting at least 1200 on a 1TB Evo Plus in my 4,1>5,1 but I have an interface card which sandwhiches the SSD between two heatsinks.
If the SSD card is running hot it will throttle down to prevent self-harming.
Another idea, check Activity Monitor. Your OS of course use the drive if it is a boot drive and if say Spotlight is indexing files for that drive that would slow your benchmarks.
Don’t forget the P2 has NO Dram and Crucial switched from TLC to QLC chips. That means the old speed from older reviews can’t be reached. I learned that hardly after buying myself an P2 a few days before. As an adapter you can also use https://www.amazon.de/dp/B08F4SYG2Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_YE27VJYK7WDQX29EC4G0?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1 . It’s 4x linked and used the full 5 GT/s from PCIe. That’s made my P2 faster in write and read speed as any ssd I could normally throw at it. With this cheap adapter you may also now PCIe 2.0 is reduced to PCIe 1.0 standard. Without spending much money nearly any NVMe would never reach its advertised speed in the machine. And even when you buying one of those cards. PCIe 2.0 will stay PCIe 2.0. you can’t go faster to PCIe 3.0 or 4.0. So my P2 could stay, knowing that it could be much more worse and I could be theoretically faster and better.
I found this on Gumtree, it's a 3,1 I think, but a lot comes with the bundle and it appears to be upgraded pretty heftily on the storage front. I've got a GTX 760 I could toss in there and possibly an upgrade to a 780 later on. If I could offer a few quid off do you think that's a good buy?
https://www.gumtree.com/p/for-sale/mac-pro-2009/1244116822?utm_campaign=socialbuttons&utm_content=app_ios&utm_medium=social&utm_source=ios_social how about this how does this look? Is it better or better to stick with the 2008? It also comes with a 1tb hard drive
The only problem with this is the cost difference unfortunately the one I'm currently looking at is https://www.gumtree.com/p/for-sale/apple-mac-pro-31-early-2008/1244688542?utm_campaign=socialbuttons&utm_content=app_ios&utm_medium=social&utm_source=messenger i don't need it on the latest os I'm fine with El Capitan as I have a mbpr 2015 15" Mac for portability but I just want something better for my office rather than the basic Mac mini I have! :(
Haven't installed linux in many years, but some initial googling leads me to believe that rEFIt is probably the way to go, I think both Slackware and Arch use lilo by default and I believe that requires rEFIt to get up and running with fewer hassles.
Personally for all multi-booting, if there's a reasonable way to manage it with your configuration, I would suggest an extra drive rather than partitioning your main disk. It's just SOOOO much easier to troubleshoot things, and you never have to worry about something partition related in one OS exploding your other OS(s). Not sure how practical that is with the 2013 though (one of the reasons I refuse to give up the older pro's... internal drive bays FTW!).
No idea on drivers, but I believe ATI has open source drivers that are "good" these days... compared to nvidia who I believe has closed sources drivers that are "really good"... Most linux distros to the best of my knowledge have had no major issues with apple BT or WiFi adapters for some time, but YMMV of course...
Physical damage caused by software is largely a myth. It's not technically impossible, but it usually takes the form of things like fans running to fast and wearing out, or not running at all an over heating... It takes a LOT to burn out a modern fan, and almost everything with a fan these days will have built in thermal protection so they can't fatally overheat. Again, it's not impossible to damage hardware from software, but especially with modern (stuff not from the 90s) hardware, it's largely boogieman tales left over from the early days of the internet.
I use refind. http://www.rodsbooks.com/refind/ I modified the boot menu to give me a two minute boot as I have a Vega 64 without a boot screen. It gives me plenty of time to decide which I want at boot.
Suggested upgrades:
- (2) X5680 CPUs
- Another 16GB of RAM (for a total of 32).
- MSI Armor/Sapphire Radeon RX 580 GPU
- Duet Display which is just like Sidecar, but works in Mojave.
For about $250-$300 she'll have a very quick machine for graphic design work. Mine is similarly equipped, and handles heavy workloads in Final Cut Pro X with ease.
What macOS are you running on the Mac Pro 5,1? Based on the card you mentioned, I’d guess Mojave or Catalina?
Is the graphics card third party (no boot screen?)
Catalina isn’t officially supported on this Mac model, so if you modified the installer to get it loaded, could also be a factor, in which case you could try dual booting Mojave and see if that works.
Nothing else, perhaps contact the vendor for support - they have a link to do so at the bottom of this page: https://www.duetdisplay.com/help-center/what-hardware-and-software-does-duet-support
Hope this helps!
No, the ubuntu install was dead easy. I put in a new SSD, booted from a usb key that I made (loads of instructions on this but I used UNetbootin), booted up holding down the option key, choose EFI, clicked install!
That would be amazingly wonderful if you could give it a try! Which card do you have? I was thinking of getting the RTX 2060.
I have heard that the Nvidia card needs a) more power than the Mac provides and b) needs a different power cable. Can you confirm either of these?
Seems like your only move at this point.
The USB key should definitely be recognized though - just make sure you're building them correctly, using an app like Balena Etcher to create them.
Why not write a 10.13 image to an USB flash drive using Balena Etcher? You should be able to choose your SSD (and wipe it, or install over it) using the macOS installer.
Downie might be the app you're looking for. Not free but it has a free trial period. The developer is very responsive and is frequently updating and adding to the extensive list of supporting video sites.
nothing prior to 2013 (trashcan mac) is listed as being able to run Catalina. Mojave is the end of the road for old cMP unless someone comes up with a way to mod it. https://www.apple.com/macos/catalina-preview/
Have you considered encryption? You can use an app called, Cryptomator. Works perfectly with services like Dropbox, Google Drive and iCloud.
All your sensitive files can be placed in an encrypted container where only you have the key. No one will able to see your data.
This one on Amazon supports Macos and Blue tooth 4.0. I've never tried but it should work...
This one works perfect in the cMP5,1:
High Point SSD7101A-1 NVMe RAID Controller https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073W71K4Z/
Make sure you put it in an x16 slot so each drive gets all four pcie lanes it needs. NVMe drives each use 4 lanes so you can run 4 drives in each x16 slot without incurring a performance reduction.
Tried to run SlickVPN using its macOS client, which I believe was based on an implementation of OpenVPN. It was utterly unstable, inexplicably disconnecting at random times, without explanation or feedback from the client. Had exactly the same behaviour as you're describing when I last tried it with Mojave. Had no solution, as the client had not been updated in years - just cancelled my VPN service as a result.
That sucks.
Here are the two items that I mentioned. If you can source them locally, you will save quite a bit. (I am fairly certain you can get electrical tape and scissors or wire strippers there without any issue.)
The adapter and cable:
https://www.amazon.com/Shaluoman-Mini-Adapter-BCM94360CD-BCM94331CD/dp/B0762N451V
The antenna extension cable:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00YM0HN0O?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title
On the upside, if you buy the OSXwifi kit, you won't have to deal with making the "custom" cable yourself.
Pretty much any mechanical hard drive will work in your machine. Western Digital Blue is a really good all-arounder, and 5400RPM is about all you'd need for what you described.
Yeah, it took me a very long time to build the mod. Also I bought a lot of unnecessary stuff until I had it perfect.
Connected this 3 pin 5 volt to SATA adapter https://www.amazon.de/dp/B089YW1MJX/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_PGGY3TH2BMJ7TK2EGXHA?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1 to this RGB light https://www.amazon.de/dp/B07Z66SF29/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_SQH0BMQPVBV09NJN66TB?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1.
I then ran the LED strip behind the HHD bays along the front end to the bottom, behind CPU bays. You have to try a bit until it sits.
Apologies - I misread your original system specs and thought you were running a single CPU machine. Yes, you've got a very similar processor setup to mine.
If you're comfortable with OWC, they are fine albeit expensive. I bought my Samsung SSD 980 NVME from Amazon, and installed it in a Micro Connectors M.2 NVMe 80mm SSD PCIe x4 Adapter with Covered Heat Sink. This suited my price/performance ratio. The sky's the limit when it comes to NVME drive speed vs. price, so you'll have to browse through OWC's offerings to find what you're willing to pay.
DR is fine - the workflow feels closer to Premiere than FCP. Despite working in FCP, I truly despise the timeline system and prefer Premiere-style editing. This is a religious choice of course, and not relevant to this sub.
EKLIND 54630 3 MM Cushion Grip Hex T-Handle T-Key allen wrench https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000189QTM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_X2SFBFA94J72XQFXD2AB?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I bought this one. Worked well.
I installed one of these in mine. Works Fantastic! 1300mbps speeds and has been 100% reliable over the past year. And as an added bonus, my bluetooth now reaches across my whole house. Supposed to work with watch unlock and possibly sidecar if you upgrade to Big Sur.
fenvi T919 for macOS PC PCI Wifi... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07VCCZS54?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
See this link.
https://www.amazon.com/Eklind-54930-Cushion-Grip-T-Key/dp/B000X285AW
There is another version with a 6" handle that works just as well on the cMP 4,1 and cMP 5,1 . . . but if you ever find yourself working on a cMP 1,1 - 3,1 you will curse yourself for not buying the one with the 9" handle.
Much appreciated! So my "update" is that I ordered a bootable USB thumb drive and I was thinking that I can boot from that and then somehow attempt to erase / reformat the internal SSD.
Plan B I was thinking of getting a new SSD and installing that. But the procedure for installing it seems...complicated what with the heat sink and all. So I'm pretty tempted to take it to Micro Center and see what they can do.
I'm curious what your thoughts are...
Here is a link to the cable from StarTech that you will need.
If you are using one of the cheap USB 3.0 cards, there are second-hand Highpoint RocketU 1144D (or earlier variants) on eBay for $50 or less. Or you can wait for a Sonnet Allegro card.
>Should I replace those plastic springs?
Proactively? Yes. This is preventive maintenance since the captive springs that hold the northbridge heatsink to the processor board may eventually fail.
You should also clean the heatsink and the northbridge die with isopropryl alcohol (or Arcticlean) and some Q-tips before applying fresh thermal compound to the die and then remounting the heatsink on the northbridge.
I have been using Arctic MX-5 recently. No cure time required unlike Arctic Silver 5 . . . and eight years before the next replacement.
There are other good thermal compounds. Feel free to do your research. Just remember that the highest temperatures in the cMP 4,1 and cMP 5,1 will be found at the northbridge on the processor board.
>And with the springs he mentioned, I presume?
You can use the ones that u/shadowpilot101 suggested if you want.
Personally, I bought a pack of fifty of these from Amazon for a few bucks, though I have a large number of cMP 4,1 and cMP 5,1 here.