The proper tools is a plastic o ring pick.
O-Ring Pick Tool - Plastic (No Scratch) [P/N: OPICK-PL] https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00E7ZD5I8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_cKyTDbZ8FDDEB
But, I've been careful and used a standard steel pick. Most of the time.
Motorcycle caliper pistons are tiny, and motorcycle calipers are expensive and hard to get. I'd probably spring for the plastic one, if I was in your shoes
Yes. Your coolant is in a pressurized system. Raising the pressure raises the boiling point. The correct test for checking a head gasket is to use a combustion leak check kit to see if the combustion gasses are leaking into the coolant system.
https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B000NPDL76/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_imm_QXSMHDW2XTMDPG26S623
Overheating causes the head to warp and cause leaks. It is a valid hypothesis but requires testing to verify.
The most important thing is to not go into debt with the tool trucks at this point. You can get good stuff cheap elsewhere. My 3 favorite places are Amazon, eBay, and ToolTopia.com. So it really all depends on what kind of cash you have on hand.
My recommendation right now would be one of those mini impacts. Mac's is $300 and has like 645 ft lbs of breakaway torque, but the Aircat is under $100 and still has 500 ft lbs of breakaway torque. The Mac is better, but the Aircat will still do about 90% of the work of the Mac. You'll probably need a "big boy" impact down the road, but the minis will do fine for now.
For pliers, Knipex is probably about top of the line in the non-truck brands. But OTC, Lang, Milwaukee, Irwin/Mmmmbop/Vise Grip all make pretty good stuff. I have a set of Gearwrench double x that are pretty good too, but they obviously see limited use. Those brands all make pretty good stuff across the board. Maybe the tool trucks are a little nicer (maybe better handles or longer lasting tips), but these will be fine for now.
My general rule of thumb is to buy a cheap one first, and if I use it enough to break it I'll buy a better one.
From there, it's really just dependent on what you are doing. If you're doing drivability you won't need a ball joint press. If you're doing front end stuff you won't need a bunch of wiring stuff.
This might work https://www.whitedogbikes.com/shop/prod/2743-peugeot-speedfight-2-100cc-54-reg-front-brake-cylinder/
Otherwise this, although you would have to go through it to make sure
7/8" Universal Left Hydraulic Brake Master Cylinder for Motorcyle Kids ATV Quad Moped Pit Dirt Bike 50cc 70cc 90cc 110cc 125cc 150cc 200cc 250cc GY6 Engine with Handle Lever https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00EF084GS/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_99RSYM2FM4FTPCG12X4B?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
This is the exact one I bought, it was only $99 back in 2018 but it has held up so well, I would totally buy it for twice as much if it needed to be replaced today.
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01ALBMIEI/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
go check out gmtnation.com
its all trailblazer owners and you can get info on anything and everything with your truck , i have an 05
its a $34 part on amazon
yuo can get to it without lifting the truck , its under the gas door , on the inside of the frame. plenty of youtube videos , just search
Anyone not owning a scanner in todays world of computerization is making life more difficult and costly for themselves.
I bought a Bluedriver a few years ago and it has helped me out three times...maybe four. An EGR valve issue, a vacuum leak and 2 coils.
Install the software from the Play store on your phone, enter the make, model, year and VIN number of the vehicle, plug the tool into the OBD port, connect to the tool via Bluetooth to the phone and hit the scan button in the app. The tool will provide a fault code, the causes for the fault code from the most likely to the less likely.
This 100.00 scanner (3 years ago in Canada) has saved me ten times the price at least.
This is a very helpful book to help familiarize you with some basics.
I've seen it before, so I just googled until I found it. It seems like "disassembled car" or "disassembled car art" gets good results.
Here's my pic via Amazon:
https://www.amazon.com/AUTOMOBILE-EXPLODED-COMPONENTS-DISASSEMBLED-PICTURE/dp/B00JGUA25S
And gets another place selling it, but not very big...
https://fineartamerica.com/products/volkswagen-disassembled-golf-mk1-----f-s-poster.html
Locking pliers, the ones that have the little screw knob on the back and when you squeeze them it locks the jaws into place.
Grab a torch and heat the snot out of that corner, then take a hammer and tap on the face of the broken bolt. Then use a good pair of vice grips and see if you can get enough of a grip to back it out. If not see if you can drill a hole in it and drive an extractor into it. I like the straight flute types or the short multi spline design depending on the material.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000F09CEA/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Spray that on the stuck part and wait a few seconds. Then it should unscrew. That stuff is amazing, but very expensive. I bought a can to see how it works and it makes PBlaster seem as effective as water. I bought a can for each of my techs to use after testing it out and seeing how well it works.
I was going to say the same thing. I've wanted a magnetic drill press ever since I saw one for the first time. Your post made me search them again. Milwaukee makes a battery powered one, but it's $2400 and it sounds like the magnet is always on.
I'm almost willing to pull the trigger on this one:
I'm home!
Since I got mine four of five (possibly six?!) years ago, the price has gone up. I think I only paid $375.00.
The upside is that it has been that long and every time I use it I'm a bit amazed at how easy it was to start and how well it works.
Check out the WiDrive app. Will show you licensed automotive technicians in your area that can come to you and fix your car problem and their prices. They even pick up parts for you as well
App Sore: https://apps.apple.com/ca/app/widrive/id1577113470
Google PlayStore: https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=io.witech.widrive
Gotcha. Could be a few things. So in the morning on a cold start, it's hard to start? And over the day after it's warmed up, it gets harder to start each time?
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Are you losing any coolant? And does your oil look ok? Like it doesn't look like a melted chocolate milkshake?
And you've tried new coils, new battery, and new alt. Random misfire with no other codes, My first thought in your situation, would be to test your fuel pressure. Bad fuel pumps are common on hondas. Especially on an 03 w/ only 128k miles. I bet that car has sat for a bit at some point, and the leftover fuel has gotten a little stale at some point. Old gas likes to gum stuff up a bit, and can accelerate wear. Cars dont like to sit for extended periods of time.
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This will let you test the fuel pressure. Parts stores let you rent one for free, but they usually dont have the correct adapter for your car. Fuel pressure tester
You can, but you need a special tool https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07K9TDRW2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_imm_QQ7QXQNN2YV4T0B73VNR?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1 it's a wedge that holds the chain tensioner down. I just searched "5.4 cam tool" on Google. You can find other ones that don't come with phaser locking blocks
I bought a predecessor to this guy and couldn't be happy for the very rare occasions that I need a scope.
You bought a much more capable piece of kit which will pay dividends if you use it often or run into a scenario where a lesser unit won't do the job at all (i.e. doesn't have enough channels, doesn't go down into the time divisions that you need).
I only have to break out the scope a few times a year and the little self contained unit has been more than up to the task. The fastest signals you'll regularly run into on a car are inter module communication. Just about any scope will be fast enough and have adequate bit depth to watch sensors.
Ok. Most people avoid wiring. Let me help you.
1: Buy this book https://www.amazon.com/Electronic-Specialties-181-Fundamental-Troubleshooting/dp/B004IKO09K?ref_=ast_sto_dp
2: The first part of learning is to create good repairs and proper connections. Anyone can do that. (95% of problems are repairs and connection).
Remember its 12volt is very safe to work with.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08PMPHMC1?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
I use these. They are designed for the shooting range. They work great for protection from loud noise and the music sounds good. The battery lasts about 6 hours but i usually take em off and charge them during my lunch break. They have a noise cancelling mode and an amplify mode. Even in amplify they automatically shut out loud noises like impact guns and whatnot.
Normally you'd use a set of tools [like this] and unscrew it easily. Unfortunately there is nowhere to put a torx key, and hold the assembly in place so you cannot unscrew it either way.(https://www.amazon.com/Alternator-Freewheel-Pulley-Removal-Service/dp/B07TNNWWN7)
I got these for my 89 f250 to counter the hazy lenses https://www.amazon.com/Headlight-leppein-24xCREE-Conversion-Replacement-1/dp/B07QNNH28X?pd_rd_w=m1MRd&content-id=amzn1.sym.1db61dc1-18bd-4e84-ade3-9872a4852ad6&pf_rd_p=1db61dc1-18bd-4e84-ade3-9872a4852ad6&pf_rd_r=B6WKYK3E60RHHDPEJS11&a.... Sorry about the link I'm on mobile at the moment. They worked really well and you can clock them to get the aim right. I recently got new housings as one broke, they are very bright.
This has saved me and a few friends and strangers over half a dozen times. Cheap. Handy.
I have a drawer full of them. Everything from Snap-On, Williams, Craftsman, Wiha, Facom and others. As to what works best, I prefer both depending on the job. For most stuff a regular single bit driver is good, nothing to lose or fall out and usually smaller but stronger than the individual bit types. For the oddball security bits I use an individual bit driver. Also have ratcheting drivers like this for use in tight areas.
Not a mechanic, but serious DIYr. For automotive work, a screwdriver with a way to attach a wrench is handy for the occasional tight screw in a hard to reach spot like under the dash. I have this set which is just a cheap autozone brand, but does the job. https://www.amazon.com/Performance-Tool-W1729-Strike-Screwdriver/dp/B01FWPJ1H0
Those can be handy, but I vastly prefer this style. Less likely to puncture the filter and you don't need to figure out which way the claws need to be oriented.
The only "basic" maintenance that I think a torque
wrench will be necessary for is to tighten wheel lug nuts. A smaller inch-pound
wrench would also be useful for drain plugs during oil changes and when
installing spark plugs, but not exactly mandatory.
If you start getting into more serious work, then torque
wrenches become a necessity. For now, I'd recommend getting a 1/2" drive
wrench that goes up to about 150 foot-pounds; use that for lug nuts. You can
later purchase smaller wrenches for lighter work as needed.
I found this to be pretty reliable for the price. Harbor Freight also has a few options at various price ranges. Here's a good video on how to use a torque wrench.
Just need new same size automotive copper wire, and you can splice them in to extend. Keep same colors together. If I had to guess, I’d say it plugs into the camshaft position sensor. Here is a repair kit, which may have the correct length wire for you. You will need to use butt connectors and heat shrink (or a butt connector with heat shrink on it), or solder if you know how to do that. You MUST note the orientation of the plug to the color wire. Make sure each wire goes to the same spot on the connector. May be tricky as the ones in the link are all red, so orient the connector the right way before reconnecting the wires.
https://www.amazon.com/Camshaft-Crankshaft-Position-Connector-2001-2005/dp/B07ZSCK1L8
If you want to possibly diagnose a head gasket a leak test kit may do the trick. I hope that it isn’t head gasket but glad oil is clear for the moment
If you're just starting out, go to Harbor Freight and get a nice jack, the 3 ton Daytona brand is a great value, the 3 ton jack stands at Walmart are a good value. As the other gentleman said, you'll need a 3/8 socket and wrench set, a 1/2 in breaker bar and a set of sockets to go with it. You might want to go with deep set sockets for the 1/2 in set. A telescopic magnet to pick up dropped bolts in the engine bay will be your best friend. A quality allen wrench set might come in handy as well. Last thing, I would look into an oil filter wrench.
I say it is the switch to turn on the lights. These switches are potentiometers that usually fail over time..... some electronic experts that restore old audio receivers say to use deoxit : https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-D5S-6-DeoxIT-Contact-Cleaner/dp/B00006LVEU
And that restores the contact to old POT (Potentionmeter) switches....a.k.a variable resistors... a.k.a a piece of wire rubbing on a carbon PCB track....
Not sure if explaining it to a five year old level, so just replace the switch or deoxit....
Buy a head gasket test kit from the auto parts store. It’s a liquid chemical test. It will determine if exhaust gasses are coming out of the radiator opening.
Block Tester BT-500 Combustion Leak Test Kit - Made in USA https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06VVBSFTF/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_PKCY5WBVCGANJBZP30TQ?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Already have them! They are great slip joints, This pair is the best I’ve ever had, nuts bolts stripped Phillips heads doesn’t matter
KNIPEX Tools 82 02 200 TwinGrip Slip Joint Pliers, 8-Inch https://www.amazon.com/dp/B097C7W2YK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_EP98X8CVK5K7TYH7CH6K?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
1 quart transmission fluid in the exhaust muffler.
Sticky weights randomly placed on a rear wheel.
Anti seize under the driver door handle.
Vaseline on the tips of the wipers.
Balloon on the exhaust tip, cut the balloon a little before install.
Confetti in the AC vents, set blower control to max.
Lift rear 1 tire off the ground, just barely. Put the axle on blocks.
Spray liquid ass in the hood vents. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000OCEWGW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apan_glt_i_7WD1D5J9A4PGRVKW8ADP
Not something you are going to want to hear but you should do a combustion gas test. https://www.amazon.com/Block-Tester-BT-500-Combustion-Leak/dp/B06VVBSFTF/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=head+gasket+tester+kit&qid=1644278490&sprefix=headgasket+%2Caps%2C65&sr=8-3 Just about any parts store will have this in stock.
I found the service manual for your car. I can't read it right now, but it should have some testing information to see what might be wrong with it.
https://www.slideshare.net/mobile/jjmsnemd/2002-nissan-altima-service-repair-manual-85808007
Check FB marketplace and craigslist for equivalent wheels. You can get oem wheels for a serious steal on there. I got a set of 8-hole FJ cruiser wheels for 225 bucks for all 5.
Your wheels have bolt spacing (PCD) of 5x114.3 and came in 17 or 18 inch sizes from 7 inches wide to 8 inches wide. There are a number of Honda OEM honda wheels that will fit.
For example: https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/585319565661074/
>monochromatic black.
Does it have to be monochromatic?
https://www.amazon.com/Grey-Pneumatic-81659CRD-Fractional-Duo-Socket/dp/B0029XKZKG
Otherwise, just get some good impact sockets (I use GearWrench), and find whatever black ratchets you like (Snap On makes a "G" series, e.g. GF80).
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005NLQAHS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
This with an android + torque pro was worth it for me. Works on my 3rd gen 4runner. Used to monitor temps here and there
You can buy the parts here (depending on your country) -
https://www.amazon.com/Loaded-Quick-Complete-Spring-Assembly/dp/B0748LXV3Q
That comes with all the parts they said to replace. Now, those are hit or miss as far as quality but those plus a $100 set of tools and a $75 jack and you can do it yourself. Thousands of videos out there on how to do it. Very straight forward.
https://www.amazon.com/Magnetic-Extendable-Telescoping-Flashlight-Stalwart/dp/B07624RDDM/
found under keywords "telescoping magnetic flashlight"
link is the first one i found, might want to look around?
CTA Tools 8240 Universal 53-Piece Rethreading Set https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0035533S8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_42BS672KZ6RWJAFWC8VV
This is pretty close to the set I have. Cleans up threads really nicely.
The biggest variety of 10 mm sockets you can find! Different drive sizes, standards, deeps, and shorts. something like this
This comes with a few sizes so your not stuck with 100 of small sizes. But the 6*2mm should be perfect for the sun visor. Any stronger and you risk them tearing the glue off.
UPPER LEFT AIR INTAKE INTERCOOLER TURBO PIPE TUPE COMPATIBLE WITH NISSAN QASHQAI 1.5 14460BB30A https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07RZ88F6G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_XCBPRMHVAVV5SPR6C2J4?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1 that’s the offender! Between the battery and the engine if I remember correctly
What do you think about the Sylvania Xenon bulbs? Like this https://www.amazon.com/SYLVANIA-SilverStar-Halogen-Headlight-Contains/dp/B079ZC8VBX/ref=sr_1_4?crid=TRCLTVDED3I1&keywords=sylvania+xenon&qid=1636064030&sprefix=sylvania+xenon%2Caps%2C112&sr=8-4
These seem like a good pick:
SAS Safety 66517 Raven Powder-Free Nitrile Disposable Glove, Medium, 6 mil Thick (Pack of 100) https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B01L017KIM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_FGTDAEKJFYNZMWRQRMTB?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Pick up one of these, keep it in your car and never worry about a dead battery again.
This book is probably right up your alley:
https://www.amazon.com/Shop-Class-Soulcraft-Inquiry-Value/dp/0143117467
From what I've read on these forums, look for a position as a diesel tech in a company fleet, and stay away from automotive dealerships.
Maybe 'lectric cars are the right way for you?
Fancy donuts, Pizza, or if you're really cheeky, this
It's a pretty common problem on early Escapes. They make a patch panel that replaces the whole shock tower, like this. I'm not sure if that's the exact right part or not.
Best bet is to stop by a good body shop and they can give you an estimate. It's probably not going to be super cheap though, I'd guess somewhere around $1k, but I'm not a body guy. I'm guessing they'll have a better part than a Dorman too
I bought this light that I wear over my hat. It's rechargeable and last for hours. I'm very happy with it. Leaves my hands free to work.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07Y8MPL1M/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I have this in my pocket all day. Several hours of run time and rechargeable. I've had it for a couple years and never had a problem. It's not the brightest penlight out there, but the price is right for the features!
This guy (~$60 on Amazon, overpriced battery and overpriced charger sold separately) is my go to. That aluminum caribiner clip will break off in the first 3 days, but it's better w/o it any way.
This one is great too. It's not sealed up as good so more susceptible to any fluids you encounter, the on/off switch is somewhat poorly placed, and it wasn't really made for this type of work, but the brightness and form-factor is excellent. Also has internal rechargeable battery and replaceable cells. I think it may be discontinued so if you go this route you might want to buy extras.
Here is one on Amazon for your vehicle. It even has a circuit that talks to your computer and tells it that the trailer is not a short in the wiring. This is the easiest and best way to go. It will save you from headaches later on.
CURT 55361 Vehicle-Side Custom 4-Pin Trailer Wiring Harness, Fits Select Nissan Pathfinder, Altima Sedan, Infiniti QX4 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0009I5WRO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_AXY5FGPAF0A4Q32WR422
Like this. Stens New Fuel Cap 125-120 Compatible with/Replacement for Dixie Chopper 300 Series Tractors, Honda 300 Series Tractors, John Deere 300 Series Tractors (Check Length) AM143248, AM39206 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000MCAOOI/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_W8JDHYKB1XT0M8NSMD8Q?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I’ve been using this one all through COVID times on my car that’s seen about 500 miles of driving. It’s been working good.
Schumacher Fully Automatic Battery Charger, Maintainer, and Auto Desulfator - 3 Amp, 12V - For Cars, Motorcycles, Lawn Tractors, Power Sports, Marine Batteries https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0756PV96N/
It looks simular to this
https://www.amazon.com/Evan-Fischer-EVA4266101743-Accessory-Idler-Pulley/dp/B07BW9SWRV
I can send you actual image if that helps. It doesnt have any brackets just bolts to engine with 1 screw
Get two of these
Take it to a muffler shop and have it welded on. Next time it goes bad all you need is the isolator then.
1.Reservoir being low doensn't mean coolant is bad.
Test the coolant
https://www.amazon.com/Prestone-AF-1420-Antifreeze-Coolant-Tester/dp/B000BOA9RY
2.Oil always more important than coolant(unless the coolant is really really bad)
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07FRC77GX/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabc_2BQTWGGGKS4WW6K241GR I've used this brand before, Aukee. I'd also recommend Hikari. I've seen both brands go for several years without any major issues. Sealight is another good runner up for cost efficient LED bulbs. Just make sure you don't buy fog light bulbs, they aren't designed for headlight assemblies. Personally, I don't like spending less than $40-50/set, but I've made exceptions in the past due to budget constraints and haven't regretted it.
Coils and plugs like to be changed together. I highly recommend getting a code reader (I got this one) so you can dial in the exact issue by switching the coil packs and seeing if the misfire follows it (bad coil pack) or stays the same (bad spark plug)
Had the same issue on my cars before - this wee tool was very handy for removing the drum; https://www.amazon.co.uk/Draper-78588-Universal-Hub-Puller/dp/B01EAKFJWO/ref=asc_df_B01EAKFJWO/?tag=googshopuk-21&linkCode=df0&hvadid=232020729251&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=5765546128130354939&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&am...
So those lug nuts are technically universal wheel locks and require a “key” per se but you can go about this three ways.
Method 1: Keep going to your local tire shops and ask for a key, one of them is bound to have it. (This method will not damage your tires usually) They may also ask you if you want them to hammer out the locks. You can do this and not keep the lug locks, it’s all honestly up to you
Method 2: Hammer the locks out with a 12-point socket that almost fits it. (May or may not damage tire depending how careful you are, some tire shops have experience doing this so they might not damage the rims)
Method 3 (not recommended): Go around to your local auto parts store and ask if they have a universal rim locks. You can buy it, and get lucky but it is very rare to get the exact key. YOU CAN ALSO ASK IF THEY HAVE LUG LOCK REMOVERS. THESE ARE THE MOST EFFECTIVE and the last resort I would have incase you want to keep the lug locks. Sometimes though they don’t have the sizes you need.
This is what you are looking for but it is not exactly what you need so don’t buy this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01B3KTGL4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_CuzMFbBFB0S65
Here’s a video of different methods to take the lug locks off, which include the ones you have: https://youtu.be/NKDkXS3gYow
Your lug locks are actually the easiest to take off so you should have no problem taking them off
I hear ya, i was thinking about getting the clamp from amazon and get a come along and hook the front of my f350 and pull it by tightening the come-along.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0158CHD6S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_EYk2DbDPNQNBG
I mean Amazon has safety glasses WAY cheaper than eyeballs. I bought a 12 pack so I can have them all over the wood shop and metal shop.
Snap On rebrands these for 2x the price
https://www.amazon.com/GEARWRENCH-41760D-Piece-Metric-Removal/dp/B000K1KHB6
I'd avoid Scamazon just cause a bunch of people does shady stuff there and the Kung Flu is tying everything up
What about one of these bead seaters? https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07BJ8DDD6/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A92P9BZO2SCX8&psc=1 I can go cheaper on the air compressor and just try to use this thing?
Btw, thank you for commenting!
hello, can i recommend a cheap scan tool such as this to find the code and diagnose from there. good luck.
Depending on whether you want to spend money or not you could just buy an Automotive Technology textbook which is a little under $200 but it covers pretty much any area you might want to know about. Also being a textbook meant for teaching there are questions after every section to test your learning however I am not sure how you acquire an answer key (it may be a separate purchase). There are countless other books to choose from as well to learn about these things from a simple small engines book to a books showing you exactly how to increase power on a specific engine. I have a comment with a bunch of reference links of a bunch of other resources from when I replied to someone else asking this question that I’ll probably try to find and paste here later.
I'm currently using something like this
And it keeps fogging or falling off. I just wanted something nice because we have to wear safety glasses in the shop at all times at school
Check out the GearWrench full mechanics tool sets first. They’re pretty good sets that don’t break the bank.
GEARWRENCH 243 Pc. 12 Pt. Mechanics Tool Set in 3 Drawer Storage Box - 80972 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07QLNVJJ1/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_susEFbNZ0S6XY
Tekton and GearWrench wrenches and socket sets are the best bang for the buck around. Even Icon from Harbor Freight isn’t bad but they’re higher priced.
Tekton screwdrivers are made in USA and are cheap on Amazon.
Sunex and Harbor Freight impact sockets are good for the money too.
Channellock pliers and adjustable wrenches are good buys.
Look around secondhand stores, yard sales, garage sales, and flea markets every chance you get. I’ve got a handful of SnapOn wrenches from a flea market I only gave $5 each for.
Damn, okay I guess I'll need to annoy someone. I appreciate the advice, I'll definitely use it! Was planning to get a vacuum bleeder but they are super expensive and most of them don't seem to seal correctly based on the reviews I've read.
For the ABS, I was reading the reviews on Amazon and people said to bleed the (4) brakes first>ABS>(4) brakes again so I wasn't sure about that. The tool I purchased was the Autel Maxicheck Pro.
My car does have ABS and it is a 2003 Toyota Sienna LE.
If you take your time and make sure you’re all straight and threaded in nicely then it will work.
The safer option is to use a chaser tap / thread cleaning tap. like this from summit or this from amazon which looks suspiciously similar to my snap on set.
They’re designed to restore/reform threads, not cut new ones so there’s less of a chance of boogering it up. It’s got a flat end, so you have to have it threaded from the get go, so it’s a lot harder to cross-thread or start off crooked plus it won’t cut new threads even if you were cockeyed. Also, you can just use a socket or wrench to turn them which is nice if you don’t have a lot of clearance.
A regular die can/will cut the existing threads, removing material, which could leave the fastener weaker. To what extent (if to any meaningful degree), I’m not sure.
Delmars Book on Amazon. About $25. Or this one
Also I did trash the old spark plugs.. they did seemed like they needed a change. Also here is a link of the ignition coils I bought off amazon https://www.amazon.com/dp/B074V6BBV7?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
No. My bet is most kits will have 6mm to 19mm. Ateast those are common packages. The 32mm you will have to buy separate. I've been using a kit of the oil filter sockets I got off Amazon for years and they have held up well. You might be able to find just the socket you need but kits are pretty cheap and you can never have too many tools.
The oil filter cup won't and maybe not the t25 but the 19mm should. Those specifically are the tools you will use though. Edit: the second set looks like it might have a t25 in it. If you can swing it I would get something like this. It will be more useful and will allow you to do more if you choose to. But as for your other question. I was thinking of the 2.5 for the oil filter cup but the 2.0 is a 32mm socket. It's been a while since I've seen a 2.0 lol. Used to be a VW tech now am an Audi tech. But ya the drain plug will be a 19mm and you should replace it everytime you do an oil change (about 3 USD for a new one). Most VW/Audi filters will be that cup, a 32mm or a 36mm. You have a 32mm filter housing which will not be in the kits.
I only see 6 connections inside, but the wire comes in and there's spray foam so it's possible that one of the wires goes to ground somewhere. Tow Ready 20117 7-Way Flat Pin End Tester https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B001P2EXN2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_DB0RCbMEVYETF is the tester I got
A universal in this context would mean a universal joint, and free spinning would be having it on the end of the gun and just pulling the trigger without the socket being on a bolt. The u joint will bend to one side, unbalancing the rotating mass and cause the thing to shake itself loose off the end of the gun. This guy is saying that only a stupid mechanic would do that, and in that case using a pin detent would help prevent the socket from flying off like it could with a hog ring detent.
Here's a pic of a socket set with integrated universal joints. https://www.amazon.com/Universal-Joint-Socket-Set-SAE/dp/B00370VACW
I’ve been using the Innova 3320 for a few years. I don’t use it all that often but it has worked great for my needs.
INNOVA 3320 Auto-Ranging Digital Multimeter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000EVYGZA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_yRrmCbAGRQ00B
this meter measures amps and voltage. it works great compared to the price of a Fluke. I only use it for amps, as an amp clamp.
I agree with this approach!
If it were me, assuming you can roll the window down, I would carefully use something like in between the glass and door panel
Calculated Industries #1190 Air Shim Inflatable Pry Bar and Leveling Tool; 300 LB Rating; Contractor-Grade Alignment Pump Wedge https://www.amazon.com/dp/B015CJEHZM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_XtX7Ab1W648GS
I would look down into the door and try and use the slim jim or hook of some sort to carefully release the latch. Also it may seem obvious but, if you are not a Cadillac expert, I find it helps to take a look at the new latch and figure out exactly how it works before attempting to release the new one.
DISCLAIMER: It is possible to shatter a window using the pressure wedge I normally only give myself like 1/8-1/4 inch. Just enough to get a little look. This is just me though. I have never been too skilled blindly using a slim jim, unless is like an old truck.
Thanks for all the responses. I may try going with a computer based one like obdlink. I want to be able to read codes, Oil Reset Service, TPMS and ABS service etc.
But its also $800 lol
I've been using the obdlink sx in class but you need a computer to go with it. For the price it's pretty good and it will let you graph out sensor info and such for only 31 bucks. For entry level I think it's perfect. https://www.amazon.com/ScanTool-425801-OBDLink-USB-Professional/dp/B005ZWM0R4
I'm a little bit hood when I'm working at home, lol. I have some of these little offroad lights (maybe not those exactly, but similar). I ran some wire with alligator clips on the end so I just hook them to the car battery. They last for-freaking-ever on that big battery, and they're pretty bright. I attach them to little countersunk magnets so I can stick em just about anywhere, like on the hood of a car. In the winter I stick them on the ROPS on my little tractor so I can putter around before sunrise/after sunset and move snow (if it ever snows again).
I'm a little bit hood when I'm working at home, lol. I have some of these little offroad lights (maybe not those exactly, but similar). I ran some wire with alligator clips on the end so I just hook them to the car battery. They last for-freaking-ever on that big battery, and they're pretty bright. I attach them to little countersunk magnets so I can stick em just about anywhere, like on the hood of a car. In the winter I stick them on the ROPS on my little tractor so I can putter around before sunrise/after sunset and move snow (if it ever snows again).
Spark plugs are dependant on the engine, your husband is incorrect. Many different variables that determine which plug to use. First get the correct plug and set the gap properly.
If the mower was running, then sounds like you just need to properly set the plug and properly torque it into the head. This is the plug you need.
To test the alternator...start the car. Put a multimeter on the battery terminals (set to DC voltage) and see what it reads. If it's anything above like 12.7 (I THINK it's supposed to read over 13 volts), it should be okay. That means the alternator is charging the battery correctly. And although I am not a mechanic either -- one rule of working on cars is 'always check the easiest thing/simplest thing to check first'. All you need is a cheap multimeter, or dedicated battery tester.... my dad actually has this exact battery tester, and it works well...check out the reviews even. And it's cheaper than a multimeter if you don't really need one. Hope this helped...if the alternator seems good, take it from there.
Edit: Oh yeah, as far as simple things to check...how old is your battery? The battery eventually wears out and is unable to hold a charge. That tester I posted also checks that. Good luck!
Get a Bone-ster. 100% made in the USA. Low profile, bigger wheels. holds 400 pounds.
DO NOT buy one off of a tool truck. Overpriced just to get a name.
It's my first car so I've been just trying to figure all this out on my own for the past couple weeks. So the best way I could describe it was a mast. I do computers not cars. I apologize
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002CNTQS/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_VaUMvb4P7MB3T Not sure if reddit allows amazon links
I'd have no issues with copper line for a low pressure carbed system. I believe it can crack easily if it vibrates too much, so be careful.
I regularly use the copper alloy stuff for brake and fuel systems. http://www.amazon.com/Seamless-Copper-Nickel-Alloy-Brake/dp/B00A02C9H0