What are /r/prusa's favorite Products & Services?

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Prusaslicer will do a cost of filament for you. In the filament settings tab, the is a cost entry. Set it to the cost for the 1kg roll of filament. Now slice your object. In the "Sliced Info" section on the right (it will appear after the slicing is done) there is an entry for cost. This is the cost of the filament used.

Depending on who they are, you could then use something like a kill-a-watt meter to determine how much energy is being used. Adjust energy consumption for local rates, and your good to go.

I am not sure how to calculate wear and tear on your printer, then there is setup delivery time. These can both be 0 as this is a friend, but something to consider.

It's 100K.

I just had to replace mine, I went with the E3D since I was getting some other things from Prusa at the same time. It's also the first time the part has broke, so I wanted to replace it with an "original" before trying the Amazon ones. Had I bought off Amazon I would have gotten these. Don't forget foil tape and polyimide tape as well if you go this route, as I don't think the Amazon ones come with a square of either.

PS. These are probably really long cables as well.

You could also do a polycarbonate blend as that will never deform as its glass transition is like 100C

I've used this no-name stuff and it prints beautifully even on my Mini, and didn't require an enclosure I just used a draft shield ro reduce warping, its also super strong

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075SY4YRD/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glc_fabc_BYAKC49X9QEQJ0YG07Y6?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

I can't figure out how the belt connects to the bed without those screws.

So you printed this time without the tape?

You can order a new pei sticker. Here one for under $20 that you can trim to fit. https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B07FVL1SYF/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabc_rcV2FbN570RBB?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

I am using these. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07CH7W3XP

I currently only use it for decreasing temperature, but intend to add some heating elements also (I live in a place where it gets below 0 degrees C and hate having to heat up the chamber via other means do get it out of thermal shutdown).

Looks like good old warping.

It's common for large box-shaped/rectangular objects to warp. Assuming Live Z is well calibrated and the steel sheet is clean (using hot water and fragrant-free dish washing soap), here are a few approaches that have worked for me:

• Slow down print speed.

• Add Mickey Mouse ears to the corners. You can add a cylindrical part in PrusaSlicer, maybe 10mm diameter, change height to single layer height, then place the part at the corner. Repeat for each corner.

• Add a brim around the model, 5 mm or more. Wider or 2 -layer high brims may be needed but may not work with the size of the model or may require being added in your CAD software.

• Use Layerneer Bed Weld (<https://www.amazon.com/Printer-Adhesive-Layerneer-Original-Filament/dp/B079984GV5/> ). You only need a thin layer.

• If you have design control over your part and it's possible considering the intended use, you can try to round the edges and/or add holes to the base of the model.

• Combination of above. Usually, brim/ears does the job, or some Layerneer if needed, but large, rectangular objects can be a challenge.

I bought these brass rods: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01C6LUO5Q

and I bent the end of one to use as a handle and the other end I push down from the top of the extruder and everything comes out the hot end (make sure it's heated up).

i got it out with dog tooth cleaning tools.

They are super sharp and able to grep the fillament - at least it worked for me.

something like this: https://www.amazon.de/Schecker-Zahnsteinentferner-Set-Zahnreiniger-Zahnsteinkratzer-zahnsteinentferner/dp/B0061LMDOS/ref=sr_1_23?__mk_de_DE=%C3%85M%C3%85%C5%BD%C3%95%C3%91&amp;crid=28UXC03KHXFLW&amp;keywords=dog+tooth+cleaning+tools&amp;qid=1648589308&amp;sprefix=dog+tooth+cleaning+tools%2Caps%2C172&amp;sr=8-23

right angle adapter

micro usb cable

On my Mini for PLA, i have to pump the temp up to 220c, bed to 70c and slow down the first layer to 8mm/s. Otherwise the first layer doesn't stick or the part comes off midway.

For getting things loose, i suggest a plastic or silicone bowl scraper from amazon.

The spring steel plates can be flexed pretty far once the bed is cooled, first layer adhesion can also be improved with a larger nozzle. a .6n nozzle (8$ or so on amazon) lays down 50% wider line of plastic and so has an easier time sticking to the plate.

I picked up a discounted Ender laser engraver module at Microcenter that i've been meaning to get going. Just hesitant to disassemble the Hot end. Been wondering if I could somehow just print a jig to mount it next to the Hot end instead 🤔

I use a PrintDry pro both to dry filament and as a drybox while printing TPU.

My lower (not low) cost solution is large <u>Ziploc Weathershield storage boxes</u> that can hold 10+ spools, combined with <u>renewable mini dehumidifiers</u>. Another good brand for containers is Sterilite. As long as you keep an eye on the color of the dehumidifier and recharge it as needed every month or so, I have had filaments in there for more than a year with no apparent degradation in performance.

I do not recommend putting the filament in an oven unless you have an oven with a very tight temperature control system. Speaking from bad experience...

I wanted to make a case for a small, irregularly shaped garage door opener, so I

• Scanned it, along with a ruler on document scanner to get the profile of its base.

• Used Inkscape's Trace Image and its Simplify command to turn the base silhouette into an SVG.

• Used OpenSCAD's linear_extrude(10)import("Fob.svg"); to model the opener as if it were 10 millimeters high.

Then to make the case, I copied the fob, scaled up the copy, and subtracted out the fob. When I had it the way I liked, I told OpenSCAD to render, and save the result as an .stl file. I opened that .stl file in PrusaSlicer and told it to slice to .gcode and I saved the .gcode file to a memory card to print.

You could try sanding your sheet but that avoids the warranty.
I did it, it didn't work and now I have a waste here.
Forget trying to find miracles to get PETG to stick, that sheet is shit.

Buy this customer textured sheet instead: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07XC673ZT

Not just the PETG will stick as it should, I can also print PLA on it without using glue and shit. Clean it with IPA before each print and voila.

Spring Steel Sheet 3D Printer Heat Bed Accessories, Double Sided Textured Powder Coated PEI Spring Steel Sheet for Prusa I3 MK3 3D Printers Hot Bed https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B07YB831QM/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_VG6B0Z0N3WQ8MXQ1EC5N

What /u/Rubix321 said but realize there are comments on each step and at the end of each section. I took the advice of one of the commenters and bought a hex screwdriver set instead of using the included wrenches. Not absolutely necessary, but much more comfortable to use.

My total build time took approximately 10 hours spread over three days.

I agree, this looks more like burnt filament dripping onto the model. Make sure your nozzle and heater block are squeaky clean, especially with PETG.

Now, if it is indeed a contamination from a previously used filament, here's my procedure:

If I switch from higher to lower temperature filaments, such as PETG to PLA, I load the new filament at the previous, higher temperature and run 4 or 5 purges before I preheat to the new target temperature.

If I switch from a darker to a lighter filament, I also run 4 or 5 purge cycles to make sure there's nothing left.

Occasionally, I use a short length of cleaning filament e.g., https://www.amazon.com/eSUN-CLEANING-Filament-Printers-Cleaning/dp/B00MVIYNFW/ or https://www.amazon.com/Dyna-Purge-Clean-Sticks-1-75mm-Printer/dp/B076DN8PTT/

I wish I knew. Everyone seems to think you'll just know if you need a new nozzle, but I'd hate to *just know* halfway through a big print. And then you see pictures of people who were still printing with .4 turned 1 mm nozzles. I had an Ender 3, then a CR6, so yeah, I would change my nozzle all the time, both because of clogs or if I got paranoid cause I just did a big print with glow in the dark. I even spent a lot of $$ on a fancy nozzle that was supposed to be the last nozzle I ever needed and it clogged pretty much right away.

Which is all to say I see a nozzle X in my future, even though I only print PLA, with the occasional foray into glow in the dark PLA.

Unless you print with something particularly abrasive, you're probably fine and maybe just check on your Z offset and do the steel wool thing - you want something like this:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B074MDTWQR/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1

you probably don't need to recharge your desiccant to that often you can get a pair of humidity sensors for $6 dollars, or some color changing beads for $17

I have a tote that hasn't been charged in a year and the beads haven't changed colors. Obviously depends on your HVAC/climate

It's common for large rectangular objects to warp. Assuming Live Z is well calibrated and the steel sheet is clean (using hot water and fragrant-free dish washing soap), here are a few approaches that have worked for me:

• Slow down print speed.

• Add mickey mouse ears to the corners. You can add a cylindrical part in PrusaSlicer, maybe 10mm diameter, change height to single layer height, then place the part at the corner. Repeat for each corner.

• Add a brim around the model, 5 mm or more.

• Use Layerneer Bed Weld (https://www.amazon.com/Printer-Adhesive-Layerneer-Original-Filament/dp/B079984GV5/). Works better in my hands than glue stick, and you need only a thin layer.

• If you have design control over your part and it's possible considering the intended use, you can try to round the edges and/or add holes to the base of the model.

• Combination of above. Usually, brim and Layerneer works for me but large, rectangular objects can be a challenge.

Printed Flexi-Rex scaled to full bed width in prusament azure blue PLA. Also did the planetary gears in their galaxy black PETG with very little stringing and the gears move super smoothly.

The carabiner is made out of this no-name PC blend I found on amazon, its crazy strong especially if you anneal it at 200F for an hour.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075SY4YRD/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glc_fabc_BYAKC49X9QEQJ0YG07Y6?_encoding=UTF8&amp;psc=1

Then once you get it clean consider something like:

https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B07779TP4S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_fabc_qPqYFb225HTJV?_encoding=UTF8&amp;psc=1

Though they can cause their own issues while trying to prevent others.

Makes sense on the case. I am using a regular pi 3 for mine. I heard that the Zero can't quite keep up anyway. Is that still the case?

Here is the sheet that I ordered. It was Amazon, not eBay, but I think it's the same seller. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07HQZCWDV/ref=ppx_od_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1

I like it much more than the smooth PEI sheet, because I don't have to worry about PEI sticking to it too strong (or putting glue down). I've ruined a few smooth PEI sheets because I forgot to put glue down before printing. No such problems with the textured, and the finish looks really cool.

It's unplugged in the picture. I'm just using a regular micro usb cable. I've ordered a right/left angle micro usb cable pair from Amazon but it seems like they were both the same and both the wrong angle direction. I'm not sure if i need to get right angle or left angle :)