What are
/r/psx's
favorite Products & Services?
From 3.5 billion Reddit comments
The most popular Products mentioned in /r/psx:
The most popular Services mentioned in /r/psx:
CDRomance
ImgBurn
HowLongToBeat
The-Eye.eu
IPFS
RuTracker.org
ratehouse
Blender
Neverhood
OS X Daily
DealExtreme
OpenEmu
LibreOffice
Download ROMs
Listal
The most popular Android Apps mentioned in /r/psx:
The most popular reviews in /r/psx:
Here's a complete list of PSX JRPG titles. Some games aren't technically jrpgs though. Treat it like you're at a store man! Browse the list, see what titles & covers grab you! Then when you find some, pull up their trailers & see if they hype you up. Skim, don't watch, a couple Let's Plays & find the ones that you think will be great.
There are tons of list out there stating "The Best RPGs" but it really comes down to what you're looking for personally.
Yea it’s completely free! https://www.blender.org/download/
Also theres lots of great beginner tutorials on YouTube. The good thing about PS1 style models is that they are all low poly and easier for beginners. Give r/ps1graphics a look.
PSX games can be ripped using ImgBurn. Just stick the CD in a computer with an optical drive, open up ImgBurn and select "read", select a file destination and format, and then click the CD icon at the bottom of the window. All there is to it.
Edit: BIN+CUE is the best format for PSX games. Audio may be messed up if you rip to an ISO.
I have had very good luck with these discs:
These are used for professional duplicators so the quality is fairly good and consistent.
That's the external parallel port. You can use a parallel-to-usb cable to connect the ps1 + xploder to your computer to find and create new codes while you're playing the game. Most of the ps1 cheat devices actually had this port on the back, but the one on the xplorer/xploder is the most capable. This is also where the x-assist plugs into.
I personally would try to stay away from generic chinese converters. Some can be good but overall, there will be at some point you noticing a con on the picture quality experience and want something more.
I would start with an adapter thats made for hdmi. I know there's other brands out there other than pound, but I would cross compare reviews on them to see if pound is the best one or not.
If you had a PS2 with HDTV component https://www.amazon.com/HD-Retrovision-PlayStation-Premium-Component/dp/B07H3F94ZN?ref_=ast_sto_dp
This would be a good alternative. This cable will not work with PS1. They make a special ps1 cable but it's a little pricey.
I think they do this just to offer a better product with more options. I have experienced checkerboarding on the picture when I use my capture card with these all-in-one cables. I play my games on a PS2, so I use the dedicated Sony S-Video cable, which has provided me with rock solid video quality when I capture gameplay. It works with PS1 as well, so if you decide to order one, it'll be fantastic quality. I can't find the original listing on Amazon, but this one here shows the exact S-Video cable I have: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000N5JS5A/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc_7QBRPZQMR2B95C3W6K6C
Unfortunately, the price has gone WAY up. I think you would be fine with the cable you linked, but if you can find the official Sony S-Video cable for a reasonable price, I'd say go for it.
I was going to buy the same controller you have but a little research led me to this. Works perfectly, even the vibration works. The controller I have matches the PS1 perfectly as well, but they're kind of expensive even used. I ended up paying around $100 for a new one.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07543W7XS/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A263LSCPZJCHO0&psc=1
I managed to communicate with the DexDrive on my Windows 10 machine. I'm using this USB to Serial Adapter(https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00425S1H8/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1), and the software named Dexter. I also have the original DexDrive software just in case. If you have not found Dexter I can send it over. Hope it helps.
Bruh, I saw this game going for AED2,432.97 (which is $662.41) on amazon UAE
Look for an option within the AR software to update the code database. Some cheat devices have it, others don't.
If it does, get this DB25 to USB cable and plug it into the funny little port on the back of the AR. Then plug the other end into your computer. You can find code/firmware updates on archive.org with a bit of googling.
Also try to replace your Action Replay with an Xplorer FX or Xplorer FX Pro at some point. Be sure to get the FX version. It's a much more capable cheat device, supports every code type from all other cheat devices, and it's the same one that Blaze Inc. employees used to find new codes. Every ps1 GameShark / Action Replay code from back in the day was originally discovered using an Xplorer FX.
It's a low end option compared to what I've seen, but it works great for both PS1 and PS2. It's what I use personally.
If you can, get this cable and connect the s-video connector to your receiver: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B010CAZVBA
​
But otherwise, it's... meant to be pretty blurry overall.
Does anybody have experience with cables like this?
Video Quality doesnt look too bad and the price is not too high
Ripcord USB to DC Power Cable, 7.5V, Center Positive, 2.1mm x 5.5mm tip
I'd love to be able to power my PSOne via USB. This cable looks like it might work, but the amperage is a little low. My concern is I don't know if it could potentially damage my PSOne + LCD Display.
I'm tempted to try it out, but only if I'm not risking my hardware. Does anyone know if it'd be safe to try?
There are cheap Verbatim ones that say 'Music CD-R' not sure if this would work?
Should be able to just order one on amazon with the right specs.. https://www.amazon.com/Belker-Adjustable-Universal-Household-Electronics/dp/B08LKRYFT6
This one is universal so you set the voltage and comes with a selection of power plugs to convert.
My guess is the 2.0A supply won't do any harm. If you turn the volume all the way up, it might have some impact. Not sure if anyone has tested the power draw.. If I knew where my screen was I could test it for you.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XCQS7WS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
They also make square ones. I used these on my Dreamcast and just used sharp scissors to make the edges match.
No. This is a modern aftermarket that you need to be weary of. Many of these cards can inadvertently erase saved games, particularly if they partition out data in a way that isn't expected to be seen by Playstation.
This is how the proper memory card looks like: [ https://www.amazon.com/Sony-Playstation-Memory-Card-PC/dp/B00005MA97 ]
Try to burn with Verbatim DataLife Plus CD-R. Works very well with burned PSX game discs and even burned CD audio as well. No apparent skips whatsoever when using this particular high-grade CD-R, far better than regular Verbatim CD-Rs.
I bought these from amazon: https://www.amazon.com/Verbatim-700MB-DataLifePlus-Inkjet-Printable/dp/B0001LS35W
How to find/create your own PS1 codes:
Get an Xplorer FX. It's the only parallel-port cheat device that allows for bi+directional communication over the DB25 port. You'll also need a ps1 that actually has a parallel port, so pre-SCPH-9xxx
Game Software Code Creator (free) and a windows-based computer to run it.
This DB25 to USB cable for connecting your Xplorer FX to the GSCC software.
Connect the Xplorer FX to your computer via the DB25-to-USB cable and then power on your PS1 and start playing the game. GSCC software will need to be running as well.
Use GSCC to take snapshots of the PS1's memory + compare differences between snapshots. For example if you wanted an infinite health code, take a snapshot with full health and then another one after taking some damage. One of the differences GSCC will show you is the line of code that determines how much health you have. You can then confirm this is the correct line of code by adding it to the Xplorer FX and seeing what happens in-game.
This is more or less how Blaze employees created "official" codes back in the day.
Realized I posted this to the wrong thread.. :) Maybe these would work for you! I bought a bunch in early 2000's at a discount store, but I'm sure something 3d printed exists.
Here is something similar from Amazon. https://www.amazon.com/Mount-Display-Shelf-Invisible-Adjustable/dp/B07KL9YQMN
Hey all,
I recently picked up an scph-1001 and a generic s-video cable (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B010CAZVBA?psc=1&ref=ppx\_yo2ov\_dt\_b\_product\_details) advertised to work with the Playstation/PS2/PS3. I tried plugging it in today and it just doesn't fit. Was there a different size/shape multi AV out cable used with the scph-1001? I'm just trying to make sure I buy the correct cable next time. Thank you.
I honestly would just get a regular jewel case. I had a game that got its case smashed too and got some cases off Amazon. I cant even remember which game it was anymore.
Heres some cases I quickly found on Amazon. https://www.amazon.com/Maxtek-Standard-Single-Clear-Assembled/dp/B07H9DYBZS/
The controller would have to either be bluetooth or USB, and you'd need to get the saturn/dreamcast version of the bluetooth adapter. But yes once you have that yes you could use the same arcade stick on multiple consoles.
Brook PS1 Bluetooth adapter is pretty great. It also forces the left analog stick to emulate the dpad even on games that don't have analog stick support.
UnoRetro is another option but last time I tried mine the game kept pausing itself so I switched back to the Brook adapter.
The madcatz adapter is just smaller, and instead of each controller port having its own memory card slot there's only one slot for the entire adapter. I like the minimalism of it.
Here is the cable I use to connect the xplorer to a computer. It's not proprietary, but there's some specification the DB25 cable needs to adhere to for it to work with the xplorer. I can't remember the spec, just that this cable works and the color of it is pretty close to ps1 grey.
There's always a chance your order gets held up in customs and/or you wind up paying some sort of import duty or tax.
The scart adapter is just for composite video. For better picture quality buy something like this
Anyway, if your CRT TV is PAL with 50Hz max, the picture of a ntsc game which runs on a 60Hz signal will always be black/white.
But there are also 100Hz TVs in last CRT generations in PAL regions where NTSC games will run just fine.
With LCD it's different, they all support 60Hz but then you will most likely need component cables instead of composite.
Which TV you use?
Something like this? LiNKFOR PlayStation to HDMI Converter Adapter 1080P HD Link Cable for PS1 PS2 PS3 Better Colour Saturation Compatible with PS1/ 2/ 3 to HDMI https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07YFPTNL5/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_EN7J2T1D9B0T0H3KJSCJ?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
It'll probably work, yeah.
​
This is the one I particularly use and I haven't had a problem with it so far: https://www.amazon.com/Dell-DW316-USB-DVD-Drive-DW316/dp/B00VWVZ0V0/ref=sr\_1\_3?crid=1OPHY7HPJ6YNE&keywords=dell%2Bexternal%2Bdvd%2Bdrive&qid=1653074932&sprefix=dell%2Bexternal%2Bdvd%2Bdriv%2Caps%2C217&sr=8-3&th=1
if you have a few drives then id o for an enclosure https://www.amazon.com/External-Enclosure-Generation-Aluminum-NST-540S3-BK/dp/B09SS74KCN/ref=sr\_1\_6?keywords=external+dvd+drive+enclosure&qid=1653064342&sr=8-6
As an example, here's Chrono Cross:
From what I've seen, it's CC, some old Final Fantasy games (but not XII), and a Final Fantasy/Chrono Trigger bundle. All hovering around $27-28 each.
This is normal wear and tear on game discs.
Any disc that isn't Blu-Ray and thereby a disc that doesn't have a thick, scratch-resistant, coating/layer - will all have this micro-marring on the surface.
CD and DVD-ROM's will almost always have these tiny scratches on it unless you're absolutely clinical in how you handle it.
As for the smudge, its probably just oil or something that filled in the marks. Its not gonna hurt the disc.
What will really damage and make the discs unusable, is if the label is scratched or damaged as many CDs were manufactured using the label being the absolute closest to or used as the actual data layer, so as long as the label side is fine, the disc will be fine.
You CAN polish out these scratches if you want a perfect looking disc. But every method/tool to properly do it, is expensive.
For example, you can get the JFJ kit. It works, but it leaves a lot to be desired regarding build quality and the cutting and polish compounds aren't good and most owners switch to using Meguairs' products. https://www.amazon.com/JFJ-Universal-Blu-Ray-Machine-Repairs/dp/B00SU6UZTW/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=dvd+polisher&qid=1652145271&sprefix=dvd+polish%2Caps%2C80&sr=8-4
Millions of copies of FF7 have been produced, so its not a big deal to replace if they're damaged to the point of being unplayable
This is exactly what I did but I contacted him through eBay. Here is the reply I received for those interested in the topic.
"Hi there,
Here's the datasheet of the LED that comes with the RePSX: https://datasheet.lcsc.com/lcsc/1810301439_Everlight-Elec-67-21SYGC-S530-E4-TR8_C131232.pdf
You can get the size and specs from there. You shouldn't have any issues swapping the LED for a blue one. Just make sure the voltage is similar (or you can just change the resistor next to the LED to adjust the voltage). It should be pretty straightforward.
Hope this helps
Rex"
The only issue is I'm really not to savvy with this stuff. Would these LEDs I put on my original PSU work fine then? https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0827KYRFH/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apan_i_QFQZQR6EY8XVB81Q4JNZ?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1 or would I need to get something closer to 2.4v since the blues it looks like are 3v?
gam3gear Brook Super USB Adapter for PS3 PS4 to PS2 PC Controller Converter Adapter with gam3gear Keychain https://www.amazon.de/dp/B075462YRF/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_Q6CK434882VWYS9CN8WN?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Without knowing the iron specifically I wouldn't be able to tell you haha. I would recommend picking up a cheap but decent variable temp iron. these are pretty good for the price, and you can get tips really cheap on ebay / ali / etc.
The part that may be the trickiest if I remember correctly, is lifting the pins on the CDROM controller. Very fine tweezers can get the job done, I either used those or the tip of an olfa knife. That being said the lifting process will be easier with the right tip
From what I can tell you are using some weird combo cable and I know from experience those cause all sorts of issues. I’d get a decent quality cable like this one if it still looks like that with those cables I’d say it’s the tv or console causing the issue.
Since you have access to older TV's I'd really just recommend playing it there.
If you are committed to playing in OLED glory on your CX you'll want to look into a proper scaler/scanconverter like the OSSC. And a proper SCART cable for your PS1.
The results will be amazing. But there's significant cost and tinkering involved.
Lol no problem and that's totally understandable, it would be nice if it were that easy. But yeah as a general rule, white lithium grease is your friend when you want to lubricate plastics safely. You can get it in toothpaste style tubes or spray cans from any hardware store, either works well
The clock oil can be a bit harder to find in stores but plenty online. It's very thin and seeps into tight crevices better than most other types of oil, so it's great for small motors or tiny metal parts and it's usually sold in easy to use dropper style bottles like this
https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B00AZMGFI4/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_i_BY90WQ7SZNJ9HCEKPXRC
It’s officially marketed as for the PS2, but the Brook Super Converter PS3/PS4 to PS2 adapter with a DualShock 3 is my go-to for the PS1 as well. Supports analog modes, vibration, and allegedly even remapping but I’ve not tried to do that. Not sure if it works with all PS1’s but it works fine in PS2 mode on my SCPH-1001.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07543W7XS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_ATA59655VG2H36HPF7DW
Are you just curious if there’s any others? if you’re simply looking for replacements
This. But if you're going to get new cables anyway just get MultiAV to HDMI cableslink instead. Amazon will sell you those and the quality is much better.
is it possible to convert from .mcr to VMP (so playable on a legit vita?)
I have a link for a memory card file of mine and I would cut off my right arm for someone to convert the FF7 & 8 saves to vita format if possible? thanks
Extension cables are a good option, as pointed out by hushypushy, but the wireless options that I'm aware of are either the Brook adapter or a BlueRetro based adapter such as the PSUnoRetro.
PSUnoRetro https://www.willsconsolemodifications.co.uk/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=52
Or theres some cheap chinese PS2 wireless controllers too but I wasnt a fan of those. I havent tried the Brook one but I have the PsUnoRetro and using a ps4 controller the delay isn't noticeable even playing games like CTR.
What are you using to print the pictures, and what image format are they in?
One quick solution I can think of is to put the image you wish to print into a word processor or similar software (e.g. LibreOffice Writer) and set it to the correct dimensions there (in LibreOffice Writer you'd right-click the inserted image, Properties, and set the Width and Height to the exact dimensions you need). When you print it it will then come out at the right size.
With a PS One I'm using this burner with Verbatim CDs: Verbatim External Slimline CD/DVD... https://www.amazon.de/dp/B01BY4PZLE?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
I also burn them at max speed and they play with 0 issues.
Cool, Yea, We're talking about the laser's ribbon then. The PSOne has the controller's ports soldered directly to the board I believe & don't require a ribbon. The PSX made slight variations to positioning the internals with each integration so it's important you get a ribbon that is compatable with your specific model, mainly because of the different length of the ribbons.
If the motor is failing to spin it's possible that could be the culprit as well. Have you verified it's the ribbon? With a voltage meter you can test the ribbon to see if you get a signal through each contact point. I recommend doing this before purchasing items you may not need. A motor is easily replaceable as well but will require some basic soldering.
As you've probably noticed the laser, motor, & ribbon are all attached as one unit & it's possible to replace it as a whole, like this. This would be the easiest option, assuming you found a replacement, but might also be the most expensive solution. Technically you can use a unit from any PSX model, but they might require rigging (ex. ribbon lengths, height of laser sitting position)
BTW, The ribbon likely won't have a readable/useful identifier on it. I was talking about the bottom of the PSOne to find SCPH model.
When I lived in Europe, I used one like this for my consoles:
This one is overkill though supporting 500W, perhaps you can find one that’s rated lower. But this is the type of converter you want to use. The cheap ones are garbage.
Zerone PS2 zu PS3 Controller Adapter, PS2 Controller zu USB Konverter für PS3 PC Kompatibel zu Sony PS1 PS2 Wired Wireless Controller https://www.amazon.de/dp/B07DGW23KN/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_XQ0MW5JNG3V5CY16DWMR?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
German amazon tho.
You would also need some software that you prolly can find online
This is the one I got that has worked perfectly till now, but I'm sure any cards from reputable brands will work fine, just avoid Lexar for this specific purpose.
https://www.amazon.es/Kingston-SDG3-512GB-Tarjeta-memoria/dp/B0858HRKR2
They aren’t quite as awesome as the Crystal AZOs, but they are still pretty good. I’ve used them in the past as well.
Use ImgBurn for the burning process. It will tell you the minimum supported burning speed for the media. As long as you never go below that, you should be fine.
Also, one thing I forgot to mention about the laser pot adjustment - don’t go too far with that. I once dialed it up so much that the console would no longer read my original Tomb Raider disc, but it still read my burned backup perfectly. Try to find the middle ground where it reads both.
I can help you out with the ID's. I compiled a similar list for my personal collection, and I don't even remember where i found them, but I have all of the NA releases with the IDs
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B9LXX_yMIX4KME5SaHF1VDN2eDA/edit?usp=sharing
I use a rosin paste rather than a no-clean liquid flux, but that's just me. No-clean may be a better option in this case. You can test most of the points with a multimeter to ensure they're making proper contact.
Well, if you're into racing games/cars in general, there's quite a few -- Driver, Driver 2, GTA and GTA 2, Gran Turismo, The Italian Job, Need for Speed, Crash Team Racing, Colin McRae Rally, V-Rally, Ridge Racer, Wipeout, Le Mans, and Twisted Metal. As for upscalers or converters; https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07MYVF61Y?tag=tech0181-21&keywords=LevelHike%20PS1%20Hdmi&geniuslink=true
-- Those ones are €30/35, but have very good reviews and feedback. They're for both the PS1 and PS2. Works on both.
Wow I've thrown through a loop! MAN I AM OLD!😆🤣 So this connects to the regular antenna input on the back of all TV's I've seen even new ones. But if in the rare case that you don't have a coxial RF input then you can buy this
Cheers!
The next solution would be composite cables to your TV or to an hdmi converter. Something like this https://www.amazon.com/Converter-ABLEWE-Composite-Supporting-Blue-Ray/dp/B07RX69KR8/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?crid=14NEM509NJWSL&dchild=1&keywords=composite+hdmi+converter&qid=1633429270&sprefix=composite+hd&sr=8-3
> What's the biggest SD card, maybe 512 gigabytes?
They have 1TB SD cards, but they're not cheap. You can fit the entire North American PS1 library, with room to spare, on a single 1TB SD card. The only issue with that currently is that the PSIO has a 1,000 folder limit, with no support for subdirectories. That may change eventually with a software update. There is currently a work around, but it's kind of annoying (putting multiple games in a single directory and setting them up like a multidisc game).
Yes you can use PS4 controllers. I use this adapter.
BROOK PS3/PS4 to PS2 GAME CONTROLLER SUPER CONVERTER https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07543W7XS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_NDS9ZPM63C4FGVVFF7YZ?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I don't think it needs to be any specific "type." I would assume Sony products share some similar parts here and there, but don't take my word for it, y'know?
Here's one on Amazon, if that helps.
I just saw this but they’re expensive. I think I only need 3 or 4. I have a couple other long box games but they’re not the clear plastic type (like twisted metal)
Ok so i was looking into some new brands of cd's after reaching the conclusion that the intenso ones are the problem.
I managed to get a boot on the FFVII disc one right to the NEW GAME screen but after that black screen Continue? My conclusion is that my burner prefers burns at 24x since thats what i used and the verify stage gave me 0 miscompares,now the thing is,i was looking for cd recommendations and i saw that people praise Verbatims for they reliability,and im wondering if these ones are any good? https://www.amazon.com/Verbatim-43725-10x-700-MB-80-min-Spindle/dp/B004VREDU6
Then I'll be sure to get an S-video cable. One question though, often I search up S-video cables for Ps2 or Ps1 and they're bundled with standard av cables. Why it this? Like this one it's a little hard to explain. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B010CAZVBA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc_CA4JPBE6QJHNSE8677J9
There is a well written guide/walk-thru for this game on Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/Ice-Planet-Lost-Worlds-Titan-ebook/dp/B01KP6KABW
​
Worth the $3 and has quite a bit of background info. Will definitely help you navigate the levels accessed via Debug Menu and answer any questions you have on whether or not you can complete sections of the game and hopefully help you dig a bit deeper in to what can be accessed.
​
I have been playing on my GPD XD+ with ePSXe and the Gameshark codes and have enjoyed digging around the demo but the gameplay can get super frustrating at times so Ice Planet is a good companion.
Where did the 1Mb size come from? It makes no sense since the entire binary dump of a ps1 memory card is 128kb. I bought one on amazon with one day prime delivery for $5, seems to work okay.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0045L3SNQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
it's just a privacy thing. i'm not very into social media. but i get it, the gloves are a little off-putting. so i went ahead and ordered these hulk hands as a replacement.
Whoa dude, I'm surprised, you really know how to work with a disc, not only did you join the copies with alcohol, but you also researched and all about the versions of Dracula X, you’re amazing friend, I respect you hahaha, you’re a sage. Although one thing I found a little offensive was talking about my cousin like that when he no longer walks among us... So if you have a problem, take it out on me, but don’t talk about the dead like that, it is stupid. Still, if you have an idea to help me, let me know, Master. postscript: I thought it was 2 cds for a post on Amazon, I guess every day you learn something new, don’t you think? https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=https://www.amazon.com/Akumajo-Dracula-Gekka-Yasoukyoku-PlayStation1-PlayStation2/dp/B000069TWR&ved=2ahUKEwiKlZKx59XvAhXRSjABHVEJAZsQFjABegQIBBAC&usg=AOvVaw2AyJJGEGwVil11eoYr...
Get one of these if you can find it: https://uedata.amazon.com/Breaker-Disc-Imports-Works-playstation-2/dp/B00DDZC8KE/ref=sr_1_1?dchild=1&keywords=breaker+pro+ps1&qid=1609622316&sr=8-1
Tape the button inside your psx down. Run the disc, then swap with your burned (legit backup copy obviously) of Hercules (or anything you've burned) and it'll run no problem
yeah! this is the kind I use. I found out early that it was easiest and less waste to try to make a whole page of labels of my computer, print it and laminate the whole page, rather than cutting it out piece by piece.
inb4 "burn at the lowest speed"
u/mikedee00 is correct - the PSX is a picky beast. You need to have good quality CD-Rs (and, at the risk of stating the obvious, making sure they're CD-Rs and not -RWs), you need to have good bin/cue combos, and you need to burn the CD-R at the speed it's designed for (which isn't necessarily 1x or 4x nowadays).
On Toast on Mac, when you insert a CD-R, it'll show you the recommended speeds for that blank media in bold. It's different for each disc, and as long as I burn a backup with one of those speeds, it'll work - 10x, 16x, whatever. If I use a different speed (whether lower or higher), the PSX will not read it. It can be a perfect burn and pass all checks on the Mac, but the PSX just outright refuses to acknowledge it.
Personally, I use Verbatim CD-Rs - these ones: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Verbatim-43432-700MB-Extra-Protection/dp/B0006BC3DK - and can highly recommend them. I've never had a completed burn which didn't read with those.
You can buy those off amazon. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06X3Y4BBB
The plastic part around the SD adapter comes off and it's much slimmer so you can mount it cleanly inside a printed piece. Check this video at 2:26, you can see him open it up.
https://youtu.be/0YH1aMcj_FQ?t=146
You don’t actually need hydrogen peroxide, though it makes the process much, much faster.
For console shells I use a really big Tupperware box lined with foil and with UV lights like these: YAYIT 40ft LED Black Light Strip... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0848RRB15?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
I then let the plastic sit in the UV light for days. It works great (and doesn’t leave streaking on certain grey hues as hydrogen peroxide may do), but it’s S L O W for sure.
This is the Scart version and for that you need a Scart cable for your PSX, but there is a composite, s video retrotink https://www.amazon.com/-/es/RetroTINK-2X-Mini-p%C3%BArpura/dp/B08HRNKSB3/ref=pd_lpo_23_img_1/138-7547065-6494301?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B08HRNKSB3&pd_rd_r=69dfe707-2825-49d1-887b-ec0e588699a1&pd_rd_w=8NOqS&pd_rd_wg=zeVNk&pf_rd_p=7b36d496-f366-4631-94d3-61b87b52511b&pf_rd_r=C8165JEFYQ71DQ434JST&psc=1&refRID=C8165JEFYQ71DQ434JST
But you wont get optimal image quality with the mini.
Best course of action in my opinion, get the Scart cable for your PSX and get the Scart version retrotink.
​
Take care
My PS1 is hooked up to my Samsung 4K HD TV via this cable:
https://www.amazon.com/POUND-Link-Cable-Playstation-compatible-2/dp/B07HPF7PRT
It's a cheap plug and play option. AV to HDMI is going to look super blurry with weird colors flickering on the screen.
If you don't like the 4:3 image you could stretch it via the TV settings, also the colors may look a little dark and the color red might look a little pink. Again the TV has alot of options to fix the colors and contrast.
I remember buying this one. It's still china but the quality is a bit better. https://www.amazon.com/Replacement-Spindle-Holder-Ceramic-Turntable-PlayStation/dp/B07VR4TVGS/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?dchild=1&keywords=ps1+spindle&qid=1603763620&sr=8-2
You could use a Gameshark or Gameshark compatible plug-in cartridge. I have the MP3 Game Enhancer that I bought from Amazon. Works with any Gameshark codes I have tried and also can act as an import/backup player as it is a built-in game enhancer as well, meaning it will let you load and run import and backup games as well as Gameshark cheats.
Sounds like a bad disc motor. You can get replacements on Amazon or ebay. Take out your laser assembly and flip it over. There should be a serial number for the replacement part. Here's an example: https://www.amazon.com/Zerone-KSM-440AEM-Optical-Replacement-PlayStation/dp/B07FB1DPX2/ref=mp_s_a_1_1_sspa?adgrpid=55240549599&gclid=CjwKCAjw3azoBRAXEiwA-_64OsobEfMDKH_8SynEK8n486LwLEI8OxaozlLho6M8glXo2-mcHws0uRoC88cQAvD_BwE&hvadid=2746880...
so the best advice I found for getting the exact color: if you have android use Color Grab or if you have iOS use Pixel Picker. They’re apps that grab color information from photos, and from those you can hopefully try to more easily find colors that match according to the RGB numbers or the hexcode.
I briefly searched for RAD2x on eBay and the price is like 4x from what I paid for the console. I am pretty early at retro gaming and I probably buy one eventually (appreciate any recommendations for affordable/available analogues), but I ended up buying this one just for the sake of testing, and it end up working fine — the image quality was probably far from good, but at least I was able to see something beyond the startup sequence.
Hence, the reason was unsupported resolution indeed — thank you!
Does your tv have composite inputs (yellow red and white cables)? Or did it come with an adapter for composite inputs? If not you will need to buy a composite to HDMI adapter online. Should work then.
Like this. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07RX69KR8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_fab_xPtFFbFEE53RR
Almost all other CD-Rs you find today will be rubbish.
I used something like this once. You're not gonna get HD out of something like this, but it's serviceable enough. This one says it works with OBS, so you can probably get some pretty good productions out of it. Note that I CANNOT vouch for this product in particular, only that I had something similar that worked. Please do your own research, make sure it's compatible with your hardware, and utilize caution with your purchase. For the record, this is a video that I made with my cables using composite only from my PS1. You can see that the video quality is pretty good, even if my mic audio sucks, but that was because I was using a cheap Target headset. Good luck!!
HDMI to RCA, 1080p HDMI to AV 3RCA CVBs Composite Video Audio Converter Adapter Supports PAL/NTSC for TV Stick, Roku, Chromecast, Apple TV, PC, Laptop, Xbox, HDTV, DVD-Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0732NF969/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_5I.mFb4654KYZ
You can try something like this, where it takes the two audio channels and combines them one.
Do you have a PS2 or PS3 or something else you can connect to the CRT via RCA to see if that works?
That chip is most likely flashed to be an MM3 which should make it region free to play games from anywhere. One thing I've noticed is you have to burn the games as slow as possible as well as use high quality discs. I've never been able to get a game burned on cheap cd-r's to work. Most people suggest getting some Taiyo Yuden discs. Personally I use verbatim azo cd-r's without any issue.
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00008L3HV/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_6wriFbRN31S5H
Just search RCA to HDMI cable on eBay/amazon.
I'm in Australia (Henze the .au link) but this is the kind of thing I've got. Full disclosure I picked the first one that came up that looked remotely like mine. I am in no way endorsing this particular product.
https://www.amazon.com.au/GANA-Composite-Converter-Adapter-Supporting/dp/B0769GMV9Y
you can get 25 blank dvd cases on amazon for $18 and they are new.
They have white tops and on the Amazon listing say they are ink jet. Personally I don't print them but judging by the name and white tops I think you can. Here's the ones I got: https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B004S6SIZG/ref=cm_sw_r_wa_apa_i_xHwrEbQEPZG2R
Update: Yeah I saw the reviews you can print on them.
What model of disc drive do you have? It potentially may be on its way out.
You need this https://www.amazon.com/pieces-Silver-Conductive-Electronics-Applications/dp/B00FEFTHK0
​
My english is not good enough to explain how to use, so please google it by yourself.
Oh, wait - I misread the topic. Derp. Okay, that’s good news. It’s a simple solution. This should do the job: https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B01K1O86GY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_C7iFBbRJF02P5
And with regards to the import question... my sister lives in NYC. She gave me a copy of MGS: Special Missions the year it came out. That was my first experience of import games - and my first experience of dealing with differing video standards.
If you are able to solder, the best option is a ps1 modchip like the one from https://www.r43ds.org/products/PS1-Modchip-Playstation-Stealth-Mod-chip.html ... you'll have to solder in 6-8 wires, depending on which model you have, but then you can just put any cd-r game in there and it will load it no problem. Or, if you don't want to solder and are not comfortable doing it, then you can get a game enhancer like this one https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0147WIIKA and it will let you load and play import and backup games too, without any internal modification.
I know exactly what you mean, it was the Game Enhancer. I had one too and sold it and wished I hadn't. I ended up getting the MP3 Game Enhancer from Amazon https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0147WIIKA which works exactly the same way and also functions as an MP3 player for the psx (not that an mp3 player for the psx is a big deal in 2018). No soldering, no opening the system. Like the game enhancer it comes with a spring thing too.
Good. So I take it you found a cable? If not, try something like this, I'm sure you could find something similar cheaper. You can use it as a IDE HDD or CD drive enclosure.
If you're looking for a much safer way to do the swap trick, grab one of these https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0147WIIKA and it will let you swap discs without damaging your PlayStation laser or your discs. You load it up, it stop the original disc from spinning, and then you can swap to your backup or import game.
What brand of memory card is it? Honestly, most of us avoid generic memory cards because either we had the same trouble with them in the past or we had friends that did.
I had one of these and it wiped all my saves (on all slots) TWICE before I realized that it was a mistake to go for a generic memory card. DO NOT BUY THIS: https://www.amazon.com/Performance-Mega-Memory-Card/dp/B00000K4YH
This is the one I think I'm going to go for. It comes with a extension cable which you should note you need if your going to go for one of these drives that are white, they're the playstation one slim model drive I believe, they're of better quality than the others models so hopefully it works. Pretty cheap at only $18.
LITERALLY the first search result for "Final Fantasy IX"...
And they're not NOS either. The Game-Rave page is currently down but there's images showing how they're differently-manufactured than the standard "Greatest Hits" copy. Add to that it's one of the games they sell out of every Christmas. These games are being actively reprinted by Square-Enix exclusively for their Amazon storefront. If you look at the customer-images on the Amazon link, you see they are silver-bottom. NOS copies would be black-bottom.