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I use these little guys all the time along with any number of heat syncs never had an issue. iUniker

They are the size that most pi projects seem to agree on so they fit right in most cases bought or printed and they are cheap.

I mean depending on how crazy you want to go, you know good and well you could get some crazy solutions.

Edit: before the comments I guess you probably don't want the extra sound now that I'm thinking about it.

I don’t know if it’s good, but I found this the other day

What size are you looking for? There are a lot of 3.5" knock-off boards on Amazon for around $15, some even with a case. For simple console use they are fine but the display speed is too slow for retro gaming. I bought one from Kuman for $25 that is cheap and usable: https://amazon.com/kuman-Touch-Screen-Display-Raspberry/dp/B07KLDKM5D

I think you're going to regret settling for such a low resolution as 480x320. You really want a 800x480 display as it's high resolution enough for crisp text and actually leaves room for an app's interface if you're using a GUI desktop environment. If you really just intent to use the text console only then either will be fine if cost is your #1 concern.

Google "sdcard mp3 player module"

https://www.amazon.com/DFPlayer-Player-YX5200-Support-Arduino/dp/B07BDD8BF3

I used these for a halloween display. Easy to use, lots of code out there.

Good Luck, Have Fun, Learn Something NEW

First off, SSH into your raspberry pi and follow this article instructions to connect to nord vpn using openvpn client:

Then Use this github repo to install Linux-wifi-hotspot software:

For this one make sure to install all the dependencies first. Any dependency that you can't install from your package manager, you can search it on github and build it from source. And also the linux-wifi-hotspot has both graphical(gui) and command-line(cli). If you only need the command-line without GUI run make install-cli-only as root user, when building from source.

I have written these instructions assuming you have already installed some sort of linux based OS on your raspberry pi and you already have basic knowledge of *nix like operating systems.

Hope it helps.

I grabbed the best thing I could find at Best Buy, this Saramonic omnidirectional mic, and it seems to work well enough for my little backyard, but I've done just enough research to know there are better (and more expensive) options.

If you have a Raspberry Pi, creating a phone audio book is much simpler than that video makes it seem.

The video doesn't use the rotary part of the rotary phone. Compare to a program running on a desktop computer: showing a picture of a phone. The user holds the mouse button down, and the computer plays an intro audio file: "Hello. Record when you hear the beep. beep." then it records until the user lets up on the mouse button, storing the recording in a numbered audio file.

The phone audio book uses uses the handset as a headset. You could wire up a simple cable with an appropriate tip and plug that into the headset jack on the computer. The phone's switchhook serves the function of the mouse button.

Translating that to Raspberry Pi: you might need a cheap USB audio adapter like this to connect the audio in and out to the raspberry pi, and you can find many tutorials on wiring up a simple push button that you could then connect to the switchhook.

Recommend you a starter kit . There are kinds of interesting projects and online tutorials. Maybe it'll give you some ideas.

I think this list of projects is pretty cool if you are hobbyist like me.
r/https://lifehacker.com/5976912/a-beginners-guide-to-diying-with-the-raspberry-pi

Re: Snips .. explainer video looks amazing, maybe they have an active Telegram group for dev help? You should check that out.. I wonder if they have a good dev/hobbyist community.

I know you made this post a few months ago, but here's exactly what you're looking for (if you're still looking) https://www.amazon.com/UCEC-USB-2-0-Adapter-Male/dp/B00TAM0MZW. You can also just search google for 'usb micro male to usb a male' to find a bunch of different adapters.

Personally, I’d recommend the official Raspberry Pi OS or better yet, DietPi. It’s not really hard to install either OS on a Raspberry Pi computer. For DietPi (light on resources), you could install a Desktop Environment (DE) such as LXQt and have an actual friendly working environment if you prefer GUI to TUI or CLI. Raspberry Pi OS comes with a default DE. You’ll feel very at-home.

Keeping the Pi 4 cool is a good idea. It’s not really a problem if your not over clocking.

But having a Pi in a case is very important. Electrical Shorts Caused by touched in the back of the pie with a metal object while it’s running can kill it in seconds. Having a protective case is very important if you plan to keep the Pi for a while

Below is one case that sells under $14 and there’s lots to look out if you’re planning to buy a case

The one below is from Amazon and the link is in amazon.ca

Raspberry Pi 4 Case, iUniker Raspberry Pi 4 Fan ABS Case with Cooling Fan, Raspberry Pi 4 Heatsink, Simple Removable Top Cover for Pi 4

Only $12.95 Canadian less if bought in the us

Hope this helps if you have more questions feel free to ask, happy computing

Model B/ 4B https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B07D3S4KBK/ref=cm_sw_r_em_api_glt_i_EEA977BS6NV8100B2ZS2

If I were going to do this I would probably add another float switch for the pi at a higher level, so it doesn't time out and turn off if the sump is actually full.

You could also use that higher switch to turn it back on when the sump fills up a bit more. Sounds like a fun little project.

To run your load on and off, you'll just need a relay that uses 5v to switch, and is capable of switching 120VAC. For example: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00VRUAHLE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc_FV2AF1D81T7FSHBHSTB9?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/GL-iNet-GL-AR750S-Ext-pre-Installed-Cloudflare-Included/dp/B07GBXMBQF/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?dchild=1&keywords=travel+router&qid=1628685743&sr=8-5

Ive been pretty happy with this travel router/firewall. I use it when staying at hotels, someones house, etc.

I wouldn't bother with a raspberry pi, which isn't designed to be a router for this use case but could of course be made to work with effort.

I was spending so much time trying to find useable roms and emulators that I just ended up buying this... My time was well worth the money https://www.amazon.com/dp/B084VH6KX1/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabc_8.UZFbGDHP8C1

Welcome!

Yup, I'm planning on using external controllers. I actually pulled the trigger on This (Geek Pi 7in Display) because I already had Amazon credit and should work well but I definitely will post when I'm done!. Thank you for the luck!

MotionEyeOS is my go-to for Raspberry pi camera solutions, however I haven't personally used it without network interfaces.

If it were me, and I absolutely couldn't use a data stream for the video, I'd use the following hardware:

Raspberry pi zero Raspberry pi zero camera module Video baulin- something like this one, but not necessarily this one: Video baulin with DC power option -or- A very long HDMI cable, like this thin one from Monoprice: 30' slim HDMI cable

And a compatible monitor.

The video baulin will transfer an analog video signal long distances over Cat5/6 (twisted pair). This just makes it easier to run a long cord between the camera and the monitor, and this particular baulin will also ride DC power. In theory, you should be able to power the Pi and carry the video signal over 1 RJ45 cable, although you should really make sure there are no power bottlenecks between your power source and your pi. By using a Pi zero your power requirements will be low while still producing a decent video resolution, however, your video resolution will be limited by the analog cord you choose (RCA = standard def)

The HDMI option will get you the best video quality.

If you don't need/want to use any network interfaces, you might want to poke around someplace like Amazon for something out of the box. Might save you some money and headache.

Did you need to record the video, or were you looking only for a live video monitor?

I understand you want to try to recycle the screen from a broken laptop, but if you ever want a portable battery operated screen, they make things like this: ZSCMALLS Portable Monitor 15.6 Inch Full HD USB C HDMI Computer Display Dual Monitor... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07VFF4TZG

4 ports @ 12.5 Watts - $16.99 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00TPMEOYM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_zLYtFb7K6VA5N

7 ports + 3 Charging Ports @ 60 Watts - on sale for $31.99 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0797NWDCB/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_8NYtFb2DVZ3BS

No.

>In the USB 1.0 and 2.0 specs, a standard downstream port is capable of delivering up to 500mA (0.5A); with USB 3.0, it moves up to 900mA (0.9A).

screen: 12v x 1a = 12watts

usb 1-2: 5v x 0.5a = 2.5watts

usb 3: 5v x 0.9a = 4.5watts

under the best scenario (no loss at all during conversion) you are still 7.5watts short.

You would be better off using something like a laptop psu a couple buck converters to drop the voltage down to the 12v and 5v you need.

Hopefully this is allowed - my company's partner, EDN, is running this awesome giveaway of a Fluke 116 multimeter with a thermometer and carrying case (~$200 value). If you want see the specific details it's this one on Amazon - https://www.amazon.com/Fluke-FLUKE-116-62-MAX-Kit/dp/B00DEF2G1Y. Cheers!

I bought this kit last week

It has a lot of extras you may or may not need, plus a nifty miniature toolbox for compact storage.

It's not the best quality tool/set ever (and most of the products have chinese on them), but the old saying is buy the cheaper decent tool until you either use it till broken your you're too good for it, then upgrade.

I'm very happy with this kit. (I made something with it), so I know it actually works.