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On top of the 2 options you listed, there are a couple other as well...
- NVR on the 2nd floor, with only 1 cable running down to the basement to a PoE switch, with all 7 cameras plugged into that for power.
- NVR in the basement and use HDMI over ethernet to your TV upstairs. Something like this.
- Are you wanting to have it displaying on your monitor upstairs 24/7? Or is it just for occasional checking in on it? Because the answer to "Not sure if reolink soft ware can just run over internet to a PC" is yes you can just run the desktop client on a PC. However, I wouldn't recommend it for continuous displaying, as it has a tendency to freeze or crash. The only surefire way to do it if you want it displayed continuously is with a direct video connection to the NVR.
- If you have an Android TV based streaming device (any Fire TV or Google TV device), you can sideload the Reolink mobile app onto it. Another one I wouldn't recommend for continuous display, and it's a bit of a pain to set up, but I've done it on 4 devices now and it works.
I have it running on all of my firesticks. Here are instructions.
I figured I would share this in case anyone else was or is having issues with connecting their Reolink cameras to their Amazon firesticks. I had been searching for a fix and someone else had posted it. I was using IPcam viewer, but the quality was downgraded and I couldn't get it to work after I connected my NVR.
Step 1. Go into settings on your Firestick, My Fire Tv, Developer options, and turn on ADB debugging and turn on Apps from unknown sources.
Go back to My Fire TV and click about. Go to network and write down the IP address.
Download Apps2fire onto your phone from the market/Apple store. https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=mobi.koni.appstofiretv&hl=en
App to FireApple Link https://itunes.apple.com/us/app/cetusplay/id1219898700
Open App2fire and scroll to the right where it says setup. Enter the IP address from your firestick and save it. Also make sure you are on your wifi during this process.
Scroll back to the far left of the Apps2fire app and click local apps. Click on Reolink and click install. It will be transferred to your firestick.
This is where I had issues. I moved the firestick remote control every direction to install the Reolink app and you have to eventually click "I agree with the terms". There's no way to click it. So I got a bluetooth mouse and connected it to the firestick. Then you can click agree and continue.
Then you just add the cameras that you want to load. I used the fire tv app on my phone to enter my passwords since the screen isn't formatted correctly.
>What switch do you use?
My main 10-port PoE switch is this one. My smaller 5 port one in the garage is an older one that isn't sold anymore, but if I were to buy one now, I'd get this one.
​
>I did see somewhere on their support forum that they don’t recommend connecting more than 3 cameras into the switch without problems.
Well, sort of, but not exactly. The problem isn't running more than 3 cameras into one switch that's the problem. They don't recommend then running that switch directly into one of the camera ports on the back of the NVR. That's due to the camera ports only being 100Mb/s ports and it might not handle more than 3 cams very well.
And that's not what I'm talking about anyways. What I'm talking about is just to connect that switch to the rest of your network... by plugging it into your router, or another switch on your network, or however you have your network set up. You'll notice in my diagram that my PoE switch in the garage doesn't connect back to the NVR, it plugs into my main 10 port PoE switch. And then the NVR is also connected to that switch via the NVR's LAN port (which is 1000Mb/s, so it can handle a lot more traffic). So all 10 cameras on my network record back to the NVR through that one 1000mb/s LAN port on the NVR.
Be careful to get a monitor that supports native 1920x1080 resolution, as that’s the only format the NVR will output. I bought this one and have been very happy with it:
LONCEVON-12 inch IPS 1920x1080P Portable Small HDMI Monitor
It’s only 12 inches, but is clear and perfect for my A/V closet.
- Gold plated: No opinion. I used the Ubiquiti ones. I'm not sure if they're gold plated or not, but I do agree you usually get better quality with name brand.
- I'm not sure I've ever read the recommendations for connections from the manufacturer... I haven't used many brands though, and it's always been pretty obvious.
- I'm of mixed opinion regarding the sealant. I didn't seal mine. I read a number of concerns that moisture -will- end up getting in, and it's better to leave them unsealed so they can dry back out than seal the moisture in. Those that did recommend sealant recommended dielectric grease. I would just focus on keeping the ends out of direct contact with rain/water splash.
- So for most of my cameras, the jack/plug is not directly exposed to water (see above). These aren't Reolink though, the jack is directly built into the camera, so it's much easier to shield it from water. If I were placing a Reolink somewhere that the pig tail would get rained on, I think I would go with something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Twist-Seal-Holiday-Protector-Christmas/dp/B00HAQV5WO Keep it horizontal and check it every now and then to see if there's any water. It'll be easier to dry out, access, and repair than a bunch of tape and sealant, and you can always fall back on sealant idea.
- I typed all of the above, and this is basically what I'm talking about. Watertight box should be enough.
- If you have a splice, yes, use something watertight like that link. Here's what I got: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07K7445H5 they seem to work fine.
very picky you'll find it hard to track down the correct sized pin, the sets with 2.5mm X 0.7mm do fit...but it feels a bit oversized.
Here's the one that I bought as a spare - and I have run my e1 pro on it - and switched back to the supplied power plug - so while it does feel as if it fits a bit tighter it doesn't stretch anything out so that the original doesn't work.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B083TTGQ27/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Do you mean an IR floodlight? PIR and IR are different things. PIR is a type of motion sensor that is used to detect motion....usually on battery cameras because it's low power.
To clarify...
This is an IR "floodlight"
This is Reolink's visible light floodlight that has a PIR sensor for motion detecting.
So that's what we need to straighten out before being able to give advice.
Also, the 833A has IR lights and a regular old visible light spotlight.... nothing PIR at all.
If you are handy have the time you could build your own enclosures and use glass. Or use something like this Amazon.com : OwlCat 6inch Security CCTV Camera Housing Case Clear Glass Without Lens Cutout Surveillance Shell Outdoor Waterproof Enclosure Aluminium Alloy Cover, 240mm x 135mm x 100mm, 6006A : Electronics
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00LTDMN2U/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Brave enough to try this?
I got mine for an e1...but I had to make an adapter plate as it was much too large for the E1...holding up an RLC-520 it looks close to the right diameter - but no idea if the screw holes line up. May require an adapter plate. I didn't feel like taking mine apart and I don't have any of the camera models the reolink bracket is designed for to measure.
I ordered a couple of those brackets from the Reolink Official Store on AliExpress a few months ago. But, looks like that site also has no stock currently.
FYI...there is a comment on this bracket at Amazon that it was used with an RLC-422, which should use the same bracket as a 842A:
https://www.amazon.com/DS-1273ZJ-135-Mounting-Hikvision-Varifocal-DS-2CD2712F-I/dp/B01EZ3FY3A?th=1
Forgive me if I came across as misleading. I am coming from a tech savvy background with little knowledge of networking. I am literally working on building up my knowledge in that area in order to better enhance the safety of my personal home network. (That now includes a camera setup.)
I have this setup along with an Argus 3 pro for an area of the property that I won't be able to get underground cables to.
You would want to get a PoE splitter, something like this. You provide PoE power into that device, and it splits it into ethernet and DC power for the camera. I can't guarantee that one specifically will work (it looks like it should), but that's just an example of what you'd want.
You need a PoE splitter, Reolink sells their own version, but they are available just about anywhere.
I also have two E1 outdoors on PoE splitters with no problems, just make sure your PoE ethernet switch is capable of suppling the needed power/wattage.
example: https://www.amazon.com/Splitter-Compliant-Surveillance-
Yeah, you don't need the internet to be able to view any of their cameras unless you want to view them remotely while not on the same LAN. If the cam and the viewing device are on the same local network, no internet is necessary.
Now, you say it's a portable setup... meaning you'll be taking it away from a place that has a local wifi network? That will complicate things because their cams don't support a direct connection to your phone. You would still need a local network for both the cam and the viewing device to connect to. So you might want to get a portable wifi router (something like this). Or maybe you could use a phone set to hotspot mode.
It is the placement and the fact that the duo has 2 cameras, each with their own IR Illuminator. When you get such a difference in the lighting, the camera doesn't cope well. For most of my Reolink cameras, I turn off the built in IR lights (in the admin panel) and have a separate IR Illuminator for a wide area. This solves a few problems.
- The uneven lighting issue is no longer a problem
- Anything directly in front of the camera like spiderwebs, snow, rain, or fog no longer ruin the nighttime image.
It is an additional expense but it really, really helps nighttime visibility. If you add an IR Illuminator to the corner of the building, facing the big, dark area that will help a lot. Just search for IR Illuminator on your favorite mass consumerism website. Look for one with a wide angle (90 degrees) and 850nm. Something like this.
Yeah, definitely sounds like the cameras are shot then. Water getting in one of the ports still seems like the likely culprit, but doing what you did should typically be enough. Did you protect the other two ends of the pigtail cord as well? The reset button and DC plug?
If any of my connections are going to be anywhere but inside the walls, I actually like to use marine grade heat shrink tubing like this, just to be really safe.
I'd start a ticket with their support to get that ball rolling. At least you're still under warranty.
They're normally $20USD or near on sale, which is incredibly cheap and lasts multiple years. I got 810A cameras because they're supposed to be standalone, they're just not very good standalone cameras though.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01H74VKZU/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
This may be an option.
Must be on the same 120v leg - so may not be convenient.
It's networking through the existing power wiring.
Note: when I plugged it in it produced a lot of other wifi network interference and forced some distant wifi cameras offline/sporadic.
It may be a quick/temporary solution until you get POE wiring out there. I agree with mblaster this is the wisest choice.
Can also move your inside wifi to as close to the barn - might be close enough to cross that distance. Wifi travels well in open air/line of sight...it's just penetrating walls/windows where it loses a lot of signal strength.
Of course the barn has no power...so it's either routing a power cord or a poe cord. Networking cable does have a lifespan of 4-5 years outside if left undisturbed.
You can also move an indoor wifi outdoor and put it in a ziplock bag for temporary use. Most 'outdoor' stuff is sealed for bug intrusion (as well as water) - and has heat sinks instead of fans/venting. But you can use inside stuff outside in weather protected areas for the short term.
I'd absolutely not depend on battery wifi items - there are a lot of reasons why those may be poor choices. The easiest of which is they're very easy to disable with a stick or a rock...and if reachable often just yanked off the wall.
When you do buy wiring - you can get direct burial cat 6 (or 5e) wiring and be fine. its up to you if you wish to splurge for conduit.
POE needs power at the injection point. So you'll have to somehow get wiring from inside the house to the outside.
I am quite interested in this thread since I am considering purchasing a Reolink PoE doorbell, but would also like to use the existing old fashioned door chimes. Have you received it yet and had time to test the receiver unit for an appropriate switched circuit to trigger a relay?
Not sure why they did not include a relay in the design since it would likely not add much to manufacturing cost and create flexibility in so many ways that come to mind.
Interestingly I have an Optex driveway alarm. This works well for me as I live on a rural property with a long driveway and it alerts me to any vehicle or person that enters the farm yard. The receiver units of this system come from the factory with a built in relay that can be used as normally open or normally closed. The length of time the relay is triggered can also be programmed. I have one receiver unit wired to a siren I got at Radio Shack (what a loss for tinkering parts) and a surplus power supply from Princess Auto along with an inline switch when I want it to be silent so I can hear it when working in the yard on the opposite side of the house. A couple years ago I hooked one of these units https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B095DRWWFW/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 to the relay of a second receiver which sends both a text and email notification when triggered. This set up works like a charm and has been since the late 90s.
Reolink needs to take a lesson from this Optex unit!
Yeah I suspect it's a wifi issue. Once it's saved on the device it's playing from the phone's storage and not over wifi.
I wouldn't suspect a firmware change would 'fix' this problem because I believe the problem is your spotty wifi to the phone.
You can solve/test that by plugging the phone in with an otg cord and plugging the phone into the router via a network cable.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0B6H3MRVW/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Is the plug that I use (usb c) for my phone - yours may be similar.
As always I hope for good resolutions for all. And I hope it gets better for you. Cheers.
Yes, for MicroSD I would recommend the Samsung Endurance one - probably the 64GB or 128GB depending on how many alerts you'll get and far back to review. For me I use the 128GB and get about 3 weeks worth of videos.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09WB1857W/ref=twister_B09ZMQWGCG?_encoding=UTF8&th=1
Where is your modem? With the router? It seems like an unecessary step to route the wiring into the basement and then back up, from the router. Just put the POE switch next to the router. Get a nice shelf to put it all on. Something like this maybe https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08P25PBSR/
I'm not sure if this will work (don't have the cameras yet), but I'm going to try this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08LVSB89R/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Hoping to mount the bracket to the soffit and then the camera where the dome cam would mount. If it doesn't have one, will drill a drain hole at the bottom in case any moisture gets in.
You'd have the best luck with an actual eSATA hard drive enclosure, that's what is intended. Something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Vantec-NexStar-Gen1x1-Enclosure-NST-358SU3-BK/dp/B0BDKG16XT
Well, just a word of caution... I wouldn't necessarily compare it to the Ring. It's designed to operate with no external antennas, the Reolink isn't.
I guess if it does have issues you could get some little mini antennas like these. I actually didn't even know those stubby little things existed until now lol.
Hmm I'm not sure that that will work with a standard 3.5" HDD. Power is going to be an issue. That's expecting you to provide power via the USB plug, and the product listing says "If you use it with your 3.5 or 5.5" HDD, then please make sure that your USB devices offer 12V Power." The USB ports on the NVR certainly won't provide that much. So you'd have to find a USB power block that supplies 12v. Most are 5v I believe.
Seems like trying to use that is using it for something it's not meant for.
Most people use an enclosure like this: https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-eSATA-Enclosure-Trayless-S351BMU33ET/dp/B076M3ZLKF
I found that this Rustolem paint works fine with two coats on the cameras with metal housings, like RLC-820A:
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B002BWOS7Q
For cameras with plastic housings, like Duo 2, this automotive detailing wrap works surprisingly well. And you can remove it easily:
> It didn't ship with one?
The Reolink doorbell ships with a 15 degree wedge. This is similar to most doorbells.
Third-parties, like Wasserstein make mounts with more angle, like this one for Ring:
https://www.amazon.com/Wasserstein-Horizontal-Adjustable-Compatible-Doorbell/dp/B098NDPDYV
I haven't seen the same for Reolink doorbell yet, but you might be able to adapt one designed for Ring or Nest.
I ordered this cable which came today, I tested it and it did not work with the E1 zoom - it was too big.
Update: The E1 Pro's I had on order showed up. Note, E1 pro, not 'zoom'. But definitely NOT the same as the Lumus as shown on their site.
It's smaller, at 2.5*0.7.
Searching for an extension seems to bring no results - so you'll have to do some sort of adaptor from a different size. And as it's an extension you'll need an adaptor for both sides.
I'll keep searching and if I find a suitable extension cable I'll link it.
Here's an adaptor to a more common extension size (mblaster listed one).
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Coaxial_power_connector
Quite the annoying little project. Reading this wiki I cannot seem to find a match for 'standard sizes'. So I'm guessing it's proprietary?
After having measured (best I can) with calipers I show the OD of the shaft at 3.4mm - remembering that the lumus has a female on the camera and a male on the power adaptor. Whereas the E1 has a female on the camera itself (the lumus camera cord isn't removable).
This is an extension I just bought - I'll report back once I receive it. https://www.amazon.com/COOLM-1-35mm-Adapter-Extension-Wireless/dp/B07MXFFP3R/ref=sr_1_6?crid=3F7CFN9ZMQA77&keywords=3.5*1.35mm+extension&qid=1668667298&s=electronics&sprefix=3.5+1.35mm+extension%2Celectronics%2C206&sr=1-6
I bought these extensions for my E1 Outdoor, but I'm not sure if the plugs are the same size on the Zoom, so I'd measure the plug on your current cable. I measured the diameter of the plug on the cam's power adapter, found it to be roughly 5.5mm, so I went with that one I linked and it worked.
So the 'standard' (for most barrel jacks) is 5.5x2.1 size. As you already know the E1's and Lumus are smaller @ 3.5x1.35.
So you can either adapt another size extension cord, or wire your own.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07PGGLRYR?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details
That is a replacement power supply I got for my Lumus - and the smallest tip fits. The power supply has a 5.5x2.1, as well as being black and only having a 3' (1m) cable.
Internet search of "3.5x1.35mm extension" brings lots of options.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07PGGLRYR/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
FYI - when I read the reolink info on the support page it said the lumus had the same plug as the E1 Pro...and as I had 3 E1's on order I felt a spare power plug wasn't a bad thing to have at hand.
The lumus powered up with the adaptor I linked (with the red tipped size adjuster). Which is 3.5x1.35mm (per the image on the purchase).
> I use micro SD, can the videos be deleted via wireless connection to the camera, or does it physically have to be removed.
The camera automatically overwrites the oldest files when it's full, if that's why you're asking this. Otherwise, no you can't go in and delete individual and specific files.... not sure why there'd even be a need to do that anyways.
Yes you can use the ethernet for connecting it to your network.
As far as cabling with minimal damage.... if you're mounting it outdoors, that's tricky to do without drilling to get the cabling outside. Maybe a flat ethernet cable underneath a window? For the cable run, you could use some sort of cable raceway type thing that attaches with adhesive tape instead of needing screwed down, something like this.
Ring has 8+ different models up to the $410 Elite, I got the one with the most reviews and purchases. The Ring Pro 2 is $260 plus additional $60 for the chime making it $220 more than the Reolink Video Doorbell. You can get a few RLC-520A with that additional budget and have a full security system.
Just seems to be a standared 5V 1A plug which shouldn't be too hard to find online the way i've said is a long prosess but to find another one like this should be quite easy
​
5V 1A 100-240V~ this is as close to the thing as you'd get id think matey: Power Supply 5V 1A, AC 100-240V to DC, Yetaida Max 5W Universal Wall Plug Power Adapter 5.5 X 2.5mm DC Jack (DC 5V 1A 5W)
First off, I'd suggest making your own new post. This post is a year old and I'm likely the only one that's going to see your comment.
I just checked, and my playback is fine on clear.
My build is 22030800 and firmware is v3.0.0.875_22030800
My SD cards are just these cheap basic ones.
In my experience, jerkiness and stuttering in the clear video (when fluent is fine) is almost always due to a poor quality wifi connection. Either between the camera and the wifi it's connected to, or the device you're viewing it on and the wifi it's connected to.
Not personally tested (I use POE powered switches) but maybe something like this:
​
Sure, but you could get something similar for less than half the price like this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0899CMJ14/ref=sspa\_dk\_detail\_2?psc=1&pd\_rd\_i=B0899CMJ14&pd\_rd\_w=Z3HEO&content-id=amzn1.sym.98eae024-ddf8-4aae-a3d1-746298cd5013&pf\_rd\_p=98eae024-ddf8-4aae-a3d1-746298cd5013&pf\_rd\_r=R1E24941...
Put camera's power supply on smart plug and when you don't need it, turn on/off from your cell phone from any place in the world (also you can set schedule on those Kasa power plugs)
No they're not required, but you do have to make sure the connections on the end of the pigtail cord are protected from moisture. The ethernet one has a waterproof cap, but they don't give you anything for the reset button or DC power port. So there are a couple of options, I've done all 3 these depending on the situation...
- Weather proof junction box, with the pigtail and ethernet cable meeting inside the box.
- Drill a larger hole (minimum 3/4") in the building you're mounting it to, and stuffing the pigtail into the wall cavity.
- You could just leave the cords exposed, but protect it some other way. I've used this heat shrink tubing before to cover all 3 connections. Although in my case it was under a patio awning, so it still wasn't in direct rain.
I'm on stucco in between studs for my install...also I took my own advice and didn't pre-wire for fear of close tolerances.
For what it's worth you can also expose the 8 wires for more flexibility (ala remove outer jacket). Short unshielded portions shouldn't increase packet loss.
I think I'll invest in some rubber - for a gasket at the wall...rain isn't so much my issue...but eventually I'll want to hose down the porch and blindly/stupidly forget to cover the camera.
I appreciate you posting this. Thank you.
I think you got a good setup. My only recommendation is to get more storage. 4TB is nothing. I would get a 6 TB HD and an external enclosure so you have 10 TB total. You can also sell the 4TB HD and upgrade to a 6TB hard drive. 12TB is the limit. I have 10 TB with 5 cameras and get a little over 3 weeks recording at the highest quality.
I don’t think rj45’s fit through the coupler. Reolink recommends cutting the connector, slipping the wire through and then attaching a new rj45.
Others have suggested silicone or tape, but I’ve used these for my outdoor cams and they work fine except they are really bulky. waterproof covers
Yes, you are correct, a switch in the attic with one cable going to NVR will allow you to view the cameras, if you want to view remotely have one Cable from the switch going to your Modem/Router.
This makes the cameras Stand Alone but will still record to the NVR. You may want to pop some microSD cards in the cameras also.
I use Ethernet over power adapter next to my router and have one in the attic connected to a switch = no cables running along walls. The only thing is your power point in attic needs to be on same circuit as power point next to router or NVR.
Being critical of my suggestion of moving cameras - without me having ever seen the facility seems a bit disingenuous. Yes there are costs associated with everything. I had no way of knowing distances involved and other difficulties. You're welcome to read or ignore any suggestions as you see fit. For all I knew the process was as easy as a camera to another side of a wall.
A 'cheap' system is any one of the low quality systems from amzn...this is just one random one I selected on an "wireless security system" search: https://www.amazon.com/Antennas-Enhanced-Detected-OOSSXX-Surveillance/dp/B089XZ7GJ6/ref=sr_1_6?crid=O298IJLUROG9&keywords=wireless%2Bsecurity%2Bsystem&qid=1664705116&qu=eyJxc2MiOiI2LjcwIiwicXNhIjoiNi41NyIsInFzcCI6IjUuNjYifQ%3D%3D&s...
I purchased as Hisseau - as well as a Smonet - both of which have worked okay - for my needs. But I'll not bother guessing your needs as I undoubtedly would draw incorrect conclusions only to be lambasted by you again.
While I was off on the price - as when I purchased one it was only 280...now in the 380 range.
Problem is with these could be too many to list. They still would require temporary power wiring. They still have limited ranges...and may have connectivity issues.
here's a .ca model that's cheaper (at least as it displays for ME...as amazon changes the visible prices based on region, and individually by customer - some things I can get cheaper than my sister and we live 3 doors down from one another - I think they give small discounts to customers that spend a lot)
The message is generic...your signal isn't 'low' it's not connecting.
You've tested multiple wires...AND the camera works fine when plugged in...Conclusion the rj45 is bad on the end of the camera plug.
You have 4 wires for data transfer and 4 wires for power (48v (.25 amps) which is bucked down to 12v and ups the amperage (1 amp).
there is a device you can buy from amzn that converts PoE back down to 12' and has a barrel jack plug. Like this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07L7QDZJW/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
That might be your solution if you don't wish to replace it.
Any possibility water got in the plug and smoked?
I have tried to log into my PC. But it won't let me. I've tried everything i can think of Admin Blank Admin Admin My user name and password that logs me into the phone app and also the web browser. Ect ect.
So essentially I'm trying to get this:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0B2P9RL53?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details
To connect to this:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0811V48LG?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title
When I plug the camera directly into my NVR it doesn't pop up in the channel section. Just shows a bad connection. But the camera itself will light up (red lights and bright white LEDs) I've read my firmware might be out of date on my NVR but again I can't log into the NVR on my pc to update the firmware. I can only log in on my app or the website itself. I hope that clears things up.
Been thinking of replacing my existing setup with ReoLink, as I hear the cameras are very nice. I am really interested in the Duo2's.
However, the Google App Store Reviews SCARE ME. (https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.mcu.reolink). Reading through the reviews it sounds like the app keeps getting worse, instead of getting better.
Do you all agree? Thanks
Here's what I'd do if it were me. Get a larger cover plate for that box... something like this or this. If I couldn't find one with holes that lined up to your box, I'd drill my own holes in the new plate and caulk over the original ones. I'd then mount the cam to that new plate, and if I didn't want to drill into the brick I'd just mount the camera with only the top two screws. If it's high enough to not be grabbed by a person that is, since it wouldn't be quite as secure with only two screws.
Wish I saw this before I ordered two 6TB drives a week ago! Like someone else mentioned, I'm definitely interested in hearing about performance in a week or two when it really fills up.
To OP, I ordered this enclosure that someone recommended in another thread. I haven't received it yet so I can't comment on it, but it's a lot cheaper than the other one linked above in this thread.
Well, my cams aren't connected directly to my router. If you look at my diagram above, they're all connected to a PoE switch.
The switch I currently use is this managed one. I just upgraded to that, but before that I used this unmanaged one. And if you really did want to know which router I use, it's the TP-Link Deco M5 mesh system.
>Their night vision is good, except when there's a quick moving target it can have some ghosting/blurring problems.
One can dramatically improve the night vision by adding one or two IR floods. These have worked incredibly well for me.
>Never though of running cable on outside of house, how do you then enter the cable into the house?
Yeah, that's the part you'd have to examine your house to find a way in. For me, I did it right next to where my cable service line and my AC coolant lines come into my basement, so I knew it was a good path, and also wouldn't look out of place. It comes into my basement just above my foundation, but below the floor of the 1st floor. Through what they call the rim joists. Like what you see in this image where the plumbing goes through the wall. So you might want to look for any utilities you have coming into the house near your foundation... cable, phone line, etc (avoid power lines of course though).
If you have siding, you could use clips like these so that you don't have to screw into the house to contain the cables. Of course, some here would say that will leave your cable vulnerable to being cut, so you may want to put it inside conduit. I don't do that though, because any place my cable is run is also in view of a camera. So it would at least alert me before the cable is cut.
Also, livingwaterRed has a good recommendation. Hiring someone to do it may not be a bad idea, they're experts at that sort of thing and would probably be able to run it through your insulated walls, or at least find a way to hide it better than you can as an amateur. I've read the typical rate is about $150 per drop... so that might be worth it to have it done right. I had some electrical work done at my house recently and they had to fish some of the wiring down insulated exterior walls, something I never would have attempted, but it was a piece of cake for them.
- I plan to use the Samsung Endurance one. You don't need speed with these cameras. Even with their 4K/8MP cameras, a UHS-I U1 is way more than fast enough for read/write.
I use the power splitter cable to provide power for both HDDs. Replace the sata to eSATA with the sata to sata cable. No case, it rests on top of the NVR though lol. I bought the cables from amazon.
I've used these extensions for my E1 Outdoor. I don't know if it will work on the Trackmix Wifi, but I did just test one on my Duo 2, and it worked. Just measure the plug on its power adapter and if it's 5.5mm, that one should work.
I have an RLC-423 that has an external mic plug. Newer PTZs have built in microphones.
The first question I'd ask...is how're you going to interface it into your NVR? I doubt the E1 has a port for a mic.
The second would be, can you relocate the camera closer to the audio you're trying to capture? Perhaps use another camera who's purpose is mainly for sound and less for the visual.
For my RLC-423 (camera now discontinued) I just purchased a cheapy mic...and it works wonderfully well. I can hear my neighbors talking in their porch area over 100' away ( and can occasional follow the discussion if they're pointed my way and speaking loudly enough - note I don't eavesdrop often but have heard them talking out there - when someone is in the driveway on their cell phone I can hear them as if they were standing in the room). Here's the link https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07G88FY8M/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 RCA interface
So are you just trying to listen in? Baby monitors are excellent in that regard. Or are you trying to collect evidence from employees or guests in your home?
get a small patch panel and short patch cables something like this
> The only thing I've never liked about it is the mount,
I agree. I used a generic camera mount and it looks 100% better, although I think the original bracket would be better in high wind.
Ugh, I wish I knew that before I bought it. The confusing thing is the camera is called the Reolink Duo w/ Solar Panel and the FAQ says:
>
> Duo WiFi/PoE
>
> Reolink Duo PoE and Reolink Duo WiFi are dual-lens cameras and support person/vehicle detection. Therefore, Reolink NVRs with the new hardware (Hw_H3MB18, Hw_N3MB01, Hw_N2MB02) can work with them.
>
> Please make sure there are at least 2 channels available on the NVR since the camera will occupy 2 channels.
So since I bought a Duo and it used wifi, I assumed it worked. Obviously the Reolink Duo and Reolink Duo Wifi are two separate cameras. Its a shame it can't just upload clips to the NVR when it records kind of like a blink camera. I mounted it in the far corner of the yard looking over the back of the house so I could see the rear entry doors to the fence and house.
I got the 410 working, I unplugged and replugged the PoE switch and restarted it.
Is there any plan to fix the Duo 2 live view?
Universal Security Camera Mount Bracket Junction Box Electric Enclosure (4 Pack), White Aluminum Outdoor Waterproof Junction Box for Camera, Wall or ceiling mount, Safely hide cables safely inside junction boxes.](https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07RZF4VB8)
Nobody except for security camera experts are going to know these aren't just part of the security camera mounting base. Even product description claims it's a "mounting bracket". If your pets and life is in danger you really need to do the small extra work to ensure you get the video evidence of the threats against your life for Law Enforcement.
I also suggest you join the r/homedefense sub
Universal Security Camera Mount Bracket Junction Box Electric Enclosure (4 Pack), White Aluminum Outdoor Waterproof Junction Box for Camera, Wall or ceiling mount, Safely hide cables safely inside junction boxes.](https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07RZF4VB8)
Nobody except for security camera experts are going to know these aren't just part of the security camera mounting base. Even product description claims it's a "mounting bracket". If your pets and life is in danger you really need to do the small extra work to ensure you get the video evidence of the threats against your life for Law Enforcement.
I also suggest you join the r/homedefense sub
Wait, so did you just have them dangling out there in the open? Of course they're going to oxidize. In fact, I'm surprised they lasted this long.
Yes, they could provide a way to cover those, but they also assume most people are either using junction boxes or stuffing the cords inside the structure they're attached to. And those that aren't would think to actually protect it themselves. So you also have a bit of blame here too.
I don't have any of mine exposed to the elements, but I'm actually going to be doing an install at my mother-in-law's soon where the cables will have to be exposed and run along the underside of the gutters, so I'm planning ahead and buying some of this heat shrink tubing to protect them.
Something along the lines of this?
https://www.amazon.com/Passive-Injector-Splitter-Connector-Ethernet/dp/B08HCN994H
I believe this should work assuming everything is the correct voltage.
If using the WiFi cameras you could always run POE to it and then use a splitter to drop the voltage down to 5v required by the cameras - something like this you can then use ignore the Ethernet cable
Yes. You want a "pole mount bracket" that straps to the pole. I've tried using exhaust clamps and other U-bolts with the wedges, and it's not stable enough for my tastes.
This or something similar will probably work for you.
What are you trying to do exactly? Hook two screens up to the NVR?
If one of your screens has VGA, you don't even need a splitter since the NVR has both an HDMI output and a VGA output.
But if you need x2 HDMI, you'd want something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Splitter-LinkS-Amplifier-Source-Displays/dp/B0732MD43P
1 person here had success with ethernet over powerline to give the NVR "hardwired" internet. He used something like this. If you have solid coper wire it works good, if you have copper wire (Strands) it doesn't work nearly as good from my experience.
This tends to not be as good as true hard wired, but it should work.
Buy something like this. Light or plugs… it’s just hot, neutral and ground wires. Pull light and existing box, install this and you have plugs. Then can install camera and have a plug right there.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004GW3VSQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_XP41xbQ5XB82F
Running them off of a POE switch and splitter. Works fine but I added a plastic bag over the connection to make sure it stayed waterproof.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07L7QDZJW/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B075FZQX14/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I had gone the route of directly mounting my cameras to the wall. I regret that and have now installed external junction boxes and mounted the cameras on them instead.
Something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Camera-Junction-Waterproof-Security-Mounting/dp/B08881CFDN/
I used this
uses one single cat5e cable between dongles and you need a display or TV upstairs. The transmitter has a splitter and the receiver has one hdmi output for your upstairs display/TV.
I use Raid Ant spray to keep spiders away. We don't have the worst spiders in Norway, but the Raid spray always work. about 4 week for each spray.
The Norwegian bottle is not the exact same design and do not have the lavender in it, but it seem to be about the same product:
I have 920+ myself. Hmm I was hoping to have 16 cameras. I am waiting for some reviews for https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0B3ZS9RS7 Seems to be nice dedicated NAS and comes with 8 licenses. I wonder if that can handle all 16 cams at full resolution
I have those numbers in the review. I was surprised that it didn't draw more power than it does. I have one of these, so I plugged my switch into it then unplugged everything else from the switch to get a baseline wattage number. I then plugged in the Trackmix and subtracted the difference. That's how I got that 7W number in my review. Then I watched the meter as I individually turned on IR, spotlight, and while panning to get the other numbers.
thx
here is the link
I have 2 cameras with this type of connection. Both cameras are Reolink RLC-420-5MP and I use Blue Iris for monitoring/recording/alerts. Configuration uses 2 ports on a POE switch with first splitter adapter (two into one), then 1 cable 30 metres, to second splitter (one into two) adapter, and ethernet cables to each camera. Splitter adapter is https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B076HD7KFV
Yeah, that's the thing... you would have to put one on each camera line, somewhere before it plugs into the NVR. And they're not going to protect the cameras, just the NVR.
So I guess the question is do you spend the money on these to protect the NVR? Or just go with what you have and hope it never kills the NVR? 8 of those would be about the same cost as a new NVR lol.
It looks like there are cheaper ones like this one to consider. Who knows how effective they are though. That one protects you from "thundering" lmao.
>could I be picking up static electricity through the cameras/wires?
That would be my guess. Sounds like you're protected from the electrical supply side of things, but a nearby lightning strike can definitely cause a charge to travel in through your cameras. If you're worried about it damaging the NVR, they do sell ethernet in-line surge protectors like this: https://www.amazon.com/APC-PNET1GB-ProtectNet-Standalone-Protector/dp/B000BKUSS8
Adding a switch (or another cable) is definitely the right way to do it. There is a technical alternative, though. I used one of these as a temporary solution until I could pull an additional cable. It has worked reasonably well for a couple years now, though I'll warn you it isn't based on "proper" standards or ways of doing things.
The real reason I wanted to comment is that a lot of times the PoE capabilities on NVR's are not directly compatible with standard networking and switches. For example, the product I linked above doesn't work with a lot of straight NVR powered devices. (It will work with a standard PoE switch, though.) You might also run into some difficulties integrating your NVR ports with a PoE switch. It's impossible to enumerate compatible and incompatible products, so it's best to do a bit of research on what you have.
https://www.amazon.com/Parts-Express-Cable-Coaxial-Protector/dp/B01L5JN0UQ
Fixed the link. Be careful, you had a sponsored link in there. Watch out for the "tag=" portion. Don't share Amazon links with that part.
I will try again to remove the ethernet cables but I've tried. Just not sure what to do there. Secondly, I did not change any of the settings related to the network. I've restarted and rebooted. Not sure if that affects anything. Lastly, I bought Cat6 cable (Solid Bare Copper) Cat6 Cable Link.
My Argus 3 Pro is fully exposed in rainy England, so I don't think it's something inherent to the type. You can get little covers for things like cameras, like this https://www.amazon.co.uk/Boxulock-security-weatherproof-protective-cameras/dp/B08BPGPF4T/ref=asc_df_B08BPGPF4T/?tag=&linkCode=df0&hvadid=430902865904&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=14781847882491773165&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt...
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07RPY4KZK?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details
I used these and they work great , my system has 18 outside cameras
​
Well, I'll experiment with this:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B017GQ7OEA?ref_=cm_sw_r_cp_ud_dp_NEK4Q85X2J5M0NSA7S3C
I dunno how well it would actually work, but maybe this? With the extra $70 extender adapter it says it can go 2600ft. That'd be at only 10mbps, which may be just enough for 1 camera, since the highest bit rate they have is about 8mbps. You may still need to lower the resolution or bit rate though.
All that being said, like others have said, I think one of the 4G cameras would be more guaranteed to work. No 24/7 recording though.
I think you're not fully understanding what a VPN is, let me see if I can try to explain it....
It stands for Virtual Private Network. When you connect to a VPN, you're creating an encrypted virtual connection that puts you into the network you're connecting to, making it a virtual LAN. It's as if you're now in the same building as the VPN server. Think of it as a tunnel between you and where you're connecting to, that no one else has access to. It's used this way for a lot of businesses when their employees do remote work. I work from home and every day I connect to my work's VPN. Once I connect, I'm literally on their network and can now access all of my work resources just as if I was sitting in my office.
With your NordVPN, you are connecting to their network. That setup is irrelevant in this situation and won't help you at all. You need a VPN in the opposite direction, one that dials into your home, not out of your home and into someone else's network.
So in the terms of Reolink cameras, the server would be at your home. When you're away from home, you would connect to that server with your phone, and you would now have a virtual connection to your home LAN, and it would seem as if you were still at home and therefore you could access all your resources that are at home, including the cameras without having to expose them to the internet.
> I was thinking more of a wiki / howto guide posted somewhere online.
> I have NordVPN and will be going to ProtonVPN after it expires
No, no... Both of these are clients to external VPN that "hide" your activity behind them (but in fact it isn't true at all, due to many tricks that done by data miners to fingerprint users even behind VPN)
What you need is your own VPN server on your premises, to which you would connect remotely and access all of your devices on your local home/business network. OpenVPN is well supported for most clients (Android, Apple, Windows) and if you installed it then all of your traffic will go through your home OpenVPN server (basically it is the same as you are inside of your local network) There also another good similar VPN - Wireguard, but you still have to setup server part at your home and install it on all clients that will remotely access your network.
> Like, do I hook the cameras to the NVR and hook the NVR to an unmanaged switch and then route that through the computer that has the VPN on it?
No, just leave everything as it is. As far as you setup VPN server, you would access local devices in the same way as if you stay home.
> How does that make it safe to check from other computers through the web?
OpenVPN if fully encrypted channel between remote clients and network where VPN server is working
> Like how would I know how to navigate to it from other devices when away from the home network (if I were in another location away from home for example.)
It literally two steps: click/tap on "connect" option in VPN client and then connect to your NVR as you do at home. You will establish direct encrypted channel remotely to your home and will access your NVR then
Thanks, your comment is somewhat helpful in the sense that I can try to google everything you said, but I was thinking more of a wiki / howto guide posted somewhere online.
I have NordVPN and will be going to ProtonVPN after it expires, but I just have it installed on all our devices, I don't necessarily know how to use it in conjunction with a reolink NVR or my network (which runs several devices, like a NAS, and is on a wifi mesh setup)
Like, do I hook the cameras to the NVR and hook the NVR to an unmanaged switch and then route that through the computer that has the VPN on it? How does that make it safe to check from other computers through the web? Like how would I know how to navigate to it from other devices when away from the home network (if I were in another location away from home for example.)
Honestly the Reolink all-in-one kits are very affordable, you can purchase separate cameras and a PoE switch, but you won't save much. 4 cameras, 4 quality SD cards, PoE switch, network cables are going to add up. You can get the complete kit on sale if you purchase on the right day of the month, often on sale.
I'm really surprised Reolink hasn't integrated the "Edge Recording" feature Synology uses, I doubt it's a patterned software idea. Then any network glitch that causes a skip in the NVR timeline would be backfilled from the SD card. Makes it more important to use a UPS backup power supply on the switch if people are on a budget, but I don't see how they'd skip the NVR.
I got my parents a $60 UPS to keep their phone, internet, WiFi & Reolink system running while the generator starts. Even with a whole house Generac generator, ideally you don't want critical infrastructure rebooting after the generator starts. There could be civil unrest in the streets, emergency phone calls, or modern generators will send diagnostic trouble codes over WiFi. It would really suck to have the generator not starting as expected, and they can't receive the trouble codes to fix it, can't Google the problem or use their (elderly person) VoIP phone to call for help. All because of a $60 UPS backup power supply.
Ah yeah, you will need that.
I just use cheap 32gb cards, they don't need to be high end high endurance cards if they're only being used for motion events and not continuous recording. I bought this pack just the other day... $4 a card.
I used these when I mounted my E1's on the ceiling, and ran the power down to my UPS backup power supply in the basement; COOLM 5.5mm x 2.1mm Female to 3.5mm x 1.35mm Male Plug Socket DC Power Adapter Cable 2pcs https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07FJLZGPF/
