What are /r/resinkits' favorite Products & Services?

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You don't need to go all out on name brand compressors and airbrushes when you are starting out, but don't go for those small box compressors either. Just pick a compressor that looks like this and it's all good, they go for $100-$150 on amazon. A tank helps maintain pressure and thus less time for the compressor motor to keep pumping air, that means less noise.

You want a gravity fed double action airbrush, you do not want siphon fed or single action. I've been using a cheap $20 Chinese imported one and have several spares so you don't really need a super high end one to get results. High end ones give you more control and all but I think that is for airbrush artist that do custom helmet artwork and free hand, we don't really do that for resin kits, 90% of the time we just need to paint a solid colour there is no fine line work needed.

Also doesn't matter how expensive the airbrush is, if you don't clean it after every session it's gonna spray like crap, so build a good clean up routine.

You definitely will make mistakes, you then learn to fix them :) putty and sanding you can fix pretty much anything, even a missing piece. Fixing anything like that before you get any color on is much much easier. I have one I didn’t have a base for yet and drilled the holes in her feet after paint, went right through the ankle, oops :)

I use this with gflex epoxy for filling, sands very easy. The gflex also doesn’t cure anywhere near as fast as your 5 or even 30m epoxy so you have lots of work time. You just mix your epoxy, then add a little bit and stir it in, and repeat until it’s a thick or thin as you want. That can will last you close to forever too.

FILLER MICROLIGHT 2 OZ https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0000AY1O2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_WSMEE28RDPXWJG0TEKBZ?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

E6000 adhesive.

Meant for jewelry repairs and other stuff with low surface imperfections (like glass/stones). Has silicone in it to promote adhesion and dries clear as heck.

The rest of the build is solid though!

If you don't want to invest a huge sum up front then as /u/TheRealMacLeod said you can pick up a normal $100 compressor & airbrush kit on amazon. I myself have been using a $100ish compressor with an air tank and $20 Chinese import gravity fed dual action air brush for my whole air brush career and if you look through my post history a cheap airbrush is not a deal breaker. One thing I learned is you have to take care of the airbrush so an end of session cleaning routine is a must for any airbrush to give good results.

This is what I use

Compressor

Airbrush

High pigment acrylics for me.

Cheapest I consider good - vallejo model colour

Top of the line - kimera kolors

I use a boat bilge fan. Seems to have plenty of power, and it's made to evacuate gas fumes, so you can use it with any kind of paint. Runs on a 12v power supply.

https://www.amazon.com/Detmar-7-5-1C-4-Blower-Bilge/dp/B0009TQ2WC/ref=sr_1_27?keywords=12v+bilge+fan&qid=1665153032&qu=eyJxc2MiOiI0LjAwIiwicXNhIjoiMy42MyIsInFzcCI6IjMuMTUifQ%3D%3D&sr=8-27

thanks for your recomendation ! , i'm interested in the patriot , i found the link in amazon this is the airbrush right?
https://www.amazon.com/Badger-Air-Brush-Co-Patriot-Airbrush/dp/B002W84GTO

also i look in videos that some airbrushes contain his other pieces for cleaning or change his size and needle , this contain with all his pieces ? or i need to but for separate?

You can find that fur in most local hobby stores that sell fabric felt like Hobby Lobby, Michael's, JoAnne Fabrics etc. You can get brown or black. You can also find it on amazon here. That is longer but they have shorter options. If you cant get new fur you can paint that you have with acrylic inks. You can also dull it down after with chalks.

I understand, that makes a ton of sense. Is there a particular gloss you'd recommend? I was looking at the Mr. Super Clear Gloss lineup: https://www.amazon.com/Mr-Super-Clear-Gloss-Spray/dp/B000W2YLGA/ref=sr\_1\_1?crid=1HOLEIZ4LGPIT&keywords=mr+super+clear+gloss&qid=1647978625&sprefix=mr+super+%2Caps%2C141&sr=8-1

Thank you for replying too. I took your suggestions into account when picking up the materials, but I wanted to ask about the epoxy putty. When you say it's too expensive, is that because I don't need to get 1lb of it right now, or because of the brand?

Should I get this Tamiya brand putty instead: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000BMTGX4?ref=exp\_leonasworkshop\_dp\_vv\_d

I second/third the practice piece idea! It's definitely something that takes practice.

If you're sealing your base, it should be easier to erase mistakes rather than taking the entire face paint off.

I've been loving using this mini vice to hold the head so it isn't as fiddly. https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B089R2D1XR/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_VGNGPVRDB9FKS5JM8FK6?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

I use these mixing cups. There are cheaper ones. I use 2 separate disposable pipettes to draw up the paint and thinner and mix with a paint brush or toothpick or anything lying around. Then pour into the airbrush. But you could also use a syringe and bottle. I wouldn't recommend disposable medicine cups unless you have them readily available - the inside ridges catch too much paint.

Get the cordless Dremel 8220. I have been using this for over a year with no issues. It's nice to be able to take it outside to do resin sanding without using a extension cord. This along with the Mr. Hobby GT07 Mr. Polisher Pro is great for sanding.

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https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MQXMX2R/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Absolutely nothing beats straight piano wire for pinning.

You'll have to noodle out what size you want for yourself, but piano wire is awesome.

If you're having trouble getting it to 'stick' then you can rough it up with a file to improve the mechanical hold your epoxy should be giving you.

Be advised; it can be tough to cut through, and it will ruin your sprue nippers if you try to cut it with them (personal experience).

I see a lot of epoxy putty suggestions, but if it's a smaller hole, it'll be tough to get that in there. Same goes for CA and talc/baking soda... either you fill the hole with glue and the powder will only harden the top layer and make the rest of the CA take longer to dry, or you mix it first and the slurry is too thick to get down in the hole.

I suggest epoxy ADHESIVE. This will give you a less viscous material that will go down deeper into the hole, dries harder than most things, and dries in 15 min. JB weld is a good epoxy adhesive, but the additives they put in to make it strong as all hell also make it much thicker, so the same problem as many of the other solutions.

If it's like 1/2"(diameter) or bigger, definitely use a putty or the jb weld... less mess and less smelly.

i know it’s silly but look up “locker rug” on amazon, scroll and there’s some furry ones in circle and rectangle shapes, exhibit a: :)

Barvotti 5 Pcs Set of Silicone Color Shapers Tools with Soft Rubber Tip to Paint, Blend, Carve, Smudge - Clay Sculpting Tools, Black Wooden Handle - 3mm Tips https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07D3CCGW2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_P7PTJ4VYAH4CMCETAX1Q

Late to the party, but these look like they may do the trick.

I would suggest a Dremel or any other rotary tool with a flexible extension, a respirator, spray booth, and a pack of brass rods of different diameters and 17 Gauge Spool Aluminum Wire for pinning. Those are just items off the top of my head I use for every kit that I don't see.

https://www.amazon.com/Dremel-3000-2-25-Rotary-Attachment/dp/B08GM9LWV5/ref=sr_1_5?dchild=1&keywords=dremel+with+flex&qid=1621424111&sr=8-5

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000FPCDRS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

First off I want a pen pen soooo bad.

For filling I swear by west system epoxy. It allows you to thicken it to exactly how you want it’s very good sanding. It not like your regular cheap stuff, it has a fairly longer oot time so you aren’t rushed at all.

I use this combo here. And the epoxy and filler will go a VERY long way. Links below with some instructions.

GLFEX EPOXY (this stuff is used in fiberglass so you can get literal cans if needed :) WEST SYSTEM G/Flex Epoxy (2-4oz) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002IZFPQE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_WGTSNKM3MWJRNBP3QNVB

Microbrews filler: first mix your epoxy. Once it’s all mixed, take maybe a teaspoon or something tiny like that and put that on top of the mixed epoxy. Then mix it in. Continue to do this until it’s the thickness you want. NOTE you will NEVER need to buy another can for a LONG time just doing figures.

FILLER MICROLIGHT 2 OZ https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0000AY1O2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_2TEZ00XY1J149321N46W?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

West system does have other additives you can use, they have a lot of info on their site. You can also use this for just about anything. Example my 78 corvette had gaps and cracks and dings and this took care of all of it.

If you want it to cure fast, my dad has told me it can fully cure in less than a half hour with a heat lamp, but I just clamp the figure and let it sit.

https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B07ZQZT1Q6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_MATN0MYXK3J4S2ZE1W8C?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

You mean these? Has anyone here used anything like this before? Care to share their experiences?

Oh nice i Just got USS Hammann kai from GK-M. If you're in the US and willing to shell out more money, I got a couple of acrylic bases from amazon. They're like 2300% more expensive than 30 cents but i didn't feel like waiting for shipping. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08LK1KR2X/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I use a variable speed flex-shaft rotary tool like this:

https://www.amazon.ca/Go2Home-Electric-Multi-Function-Metalworking-polishing/dp/B07DL4Q9S6

I have a more expensive US made "Fordom" brand model, but I've heard the cheaper off-market ones are OK too.

The take away is the foot pedal makes it an absolute dream to use. Even if you get something more like a traditional Dremel tool I highly recommend the addition of a variable speed foot pedal. Which I believe are available for Dremel tools as well.

I love it and the fan I used was an inline fan I found on Amazon. It's a bit loud also no on off switch as I have to wore it to the kit it self. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005XNNYMU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabt1_kW6XFb3PNC76D?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

Using pastels is a great way to acheive an airbrush effect without one, as far as blending colors and adding layers is concerned. However it takes a decent set of pastels and a dedicated set of brushes.

As for preventing streaks, you could always add just a little future floor wax to the acrylics to let them flow better. Floetrol works well too.

HOWEVER, all that being said... it is absolutely worth the investment on an airbrush. Especially if you get something with a micrometer, it makes the learning curve much smaller. And if you are going to spend the money, spend it on an Iwata.

My Iwata HP-CH has been a workhorse for several years, on everything from priming to fine detail work. Compressor wise, I have had awesome service out of my Master TC-40T, bought on Amazon. It is quiet, runs less due to having a tank, and has been completely reliable.

I have a regular QuesQ Tenryuu Here

But this Tenryuu Kai Ni version came from GK-M

Okay, they are definitely using a few layers there to get that skin tone looking somewhat bronzy. I use this set of paints for my skin colors an it's met all my needs.

Vallejo Face Painting Set 17ml Paint https://www.amazon.com/dp/B013I1LF60/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_7yg4Ab32RRSZD

For human flesh I would always use a white primer for it. That kit has a "burnt flesh" type color that looks like it would match the shaded areas perfectly. Layer that down, then highlight with the regular light flesh tone. The pale flesh is really really light though, so I wouldn't go that far.

good point, yea, I kept looking through amazon and found this kit; it has 3 ABs with one being a siphon and the compressor goes up to 57 psi. The only downside about the compressor is that it doesn't stop after reaching certain pressure so it gets pretty hot. there's also a set without all the color combo stuff and cleaner for 99 dollars. On this note, are there any resources concerning color combinations to get certain shades like skin color, etc?

Cool, when you say neo, do you mean this model. Also, any recomendations, for the compressor/

If you're looking for actual recommendations, then I can say you can try and get the Iwata silver jet, I have it and it's great because it has a integrated regulator, right now I'm using one that has an automatic shutdown function because I like to have some quiet time when I'm airbrushing, so it's great for that as the tank fills up and then you just use the stored air and it will automatically start again when the tank pressure is low, I purchased this model, it's not a brand name per se, but it works excellent and gives me what I need compressor link

Daler-Rowney pearl medium is exactly what you seek! It allows you to turn any paint into pearlescent stuff, and it makes the paint a bit sturdier :)