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So, for the budget you're talking about, I would abandon the traditional theatrical lighting scheme entirely. You don't have money to rig the positions you need, nor do you have the money to rent the lights you would need/want.

Back to basics here: Your #1 goal is make the performers visible. Your #2 goal is to create an ambiance conducive to telling the story. The way we normally do lighting is a tried and true method, but it's not the only way to accomplish the goal.

On your budget, I would go for something like this: Outdoor Cafe Lights to create a warm general wash of the stage. They're cheap, provide wide coverage, can be safely rigged up in a lot of different avenues, and provide a nice quality of light. If it's appropriate to the piece, you can replace the bulbs with colored party bulbs.

Footlights are also cheap and easy. They can be put together in banks that are fast to set up and strike, and provide you some tighter illumination.

For particular dramatic moments you're looking to get creative with a handful of floor mounted fixtures or booms. This is where a few cheap LED fixtures would help a ton. If I had rental budget this is where I would put it.

That's where I would go. If your director/PM/company is pushing for a traditional theatrical design but outdoors and on a $500 budget, they're just not being realistic. The practical realities of technical theater production do not scale linearly with the budget. At some point it just costs X to put up a truss tower, no matter how much they want it to cost X/2.

https://www.amazon.ca/Back-Stage-Guide-Management-3rd/dp/0823098028

You've got to take blocking/light/sound cue notes, call the show, hold talent accountable for call times, lots of paperwork... generally be in charge of the show when the director isn't there. As a disclaimer, I've never been a professional stage manager because it's way too much work, but I work in professional theater.

The Backstage Handbook is the go to for most reference info. I've used this book in intro level college classes, and it might be what you are looking for if you are thinking more of a traditional text book style.

They look like random 3pin IP68 connectors, you can buy many of them on Amazon. May just be easier to cut off the current connector and rewire both sides rather than try to match the current one.

Groups will be your best friend, ideally how your show file should operate, you entire short sequence should live within a group, so instead of hitting “go...2...3...go..2...go”, you just hit “go”once, and the cues inside will have all their pre-waits/follows/whatever happen automatically, the name of the game is making as few button presses as possible during the run of the show.

Keyboard short cuts are also gospel, space to trigger go, single escape for panic fade all cues, double escape for panic hard stop all cues, P to pause/play selected, I recommend if your running a console with mics and running qLab on your own you use a numbpad and re-assign your basic functions like go, pause, etc to this, as it saves space not needing a full keyboard right in front of you.

In settings I set a delay between “go” triggers to 0.5 seconds, prevents you from double pressing go by accident.

I highly recommend you follow the Figure53 guide to optimize your show computer, it’s great at saving you from headaches link

I probably missed some stuff, I’ve been using qLab for years and have run complex shows with hundreds of cues using it, I can send you some demo show files if you wanna see how I organize my sessions, and if you have any questions about qLab feel free to ask.

For future reference, Design Master wood spray paint doesn't eat foam, costs less than 15 dollars even at a craft store, and will save you hours of paint time. 1 can could cover like 10 of those wagon wheels.

I guess the first question is whether you have had specific problems with crews not listening to notes, or have there been complaints, etc? If there's more to this question, it should probably be addressed specifically, rather just a general answer about how to deliver feedback. But let's assume for the moment that you haven't had any specific issues, and you just want to know how to get the most out of a crew.

First of all, everything that goes wrong is your fault as the manager, and everything that goes right gets credited to your subordinates. This isn't supposed to sound cynical, which is probably how it will read, it's a management principal that you can apply whether you are managing in a theatre or in the corporate world. Don't pass the buck. Even if your crew screws something up completely, take the blame from above and educate your crew on how to do better in the future. They will love you for it.

Second, assume positive intent. If someone does something wrong, don't assume that they are trying to screw over you, or the show, or whatever. Assume first that they are trying their best and that they don't know any better.

Third, correct problems immediately. You don't have time to wait, especially in the theatre, and absolutely nobody benefits from you putting off a difficult conversation. Take notes of everything that happens – be meticulous – and give notes to your crew on every detail. You aren't doing it because they are screw ups, you're doing it because you are passionate about the show and you want it to be perfect, and so should they.

Finally, if you want to be a great leader… study. Leadership is a skill and it takes practice and education, just like anything else. I like this book, but there are plenty of other opinions out there. Find what you are comfortable with and what gets results from your crew.

Recent AMA Shannon Slaton has a great book on the subject of mixing,

https://www.amazon.com/Mixing-Musical-Broadway-Theatrical-Techniques/dp/1138491446/ref=sr_1_1?dchild=1&keywords=shannon+slaton&qid=1622761923&sr=8-1

Line by line mixing using faders is standard practice. Someone walks on, fader goes up, they finish their line, fader goes down. That being said, in the digital world, most people mix using scenes and DCA’s, so each scene or chunk has its own saved scene/snippet that puts the people and groups you want on DCA faders at your fingertips rather than using the faders for the actual channel. That way you’re not hunting through a whole desk, or various layers to find everything.

I know you are trying to avoid DMX, but....
You can get pretty close to your budget with something like a Chauvet Pro-D6 and some kind of cheap DMX controller.

The lights would plug into the Pro-D6, which would be plugged into the wall, and a DMX cable would run between the controller and dimmer.

Go pick up the Backstage Handbook and read it cover to cover. That will give you enough basic understanding of terms and rough practices to survive overhire calls.

this is a textbook for lighting design I know a LD uses for his college courses. Are there any local theatres near you, you can contact and ask if they have apprenticeships or internships or that you can just go and observe how they operate? As for school, do you cue the show during tech? That's a great way to learn about design is to watch the designer cue the show and program the board.

I’ve got a set of customs from https://www.etymotic.com and absolutely love them. But they were a couple hundred bucks. They also have some clear generic fit musician ear plugs that are a little more discrete than the bright orange ones. Plus they’re cheap and reusable. $20 on Amazon

My bag has the following:

Adjustable C wrench.
Multimeter
Gloves
Screwdriver, preferably one that has a flathead/phillips quick bit
Folding pocket knife
Wire cutters
Long nose pliers
Short nose pliers
Wire strippers
Jacket stripper
Photometer
Swisson XMT-350 RDM/Dmx Tester
Zip ties
Headlight
Water Bottle
Sharpies.

The minimum to get through a hang are in bold.

Here's a link to my folder of audio instruction manuals. These are for products I work with a lot. There's also a folder in there with some general purpose reference stuff too.

I'm not gonna keep this folder public forever, but I'll keep it open for a few days if anybody wants to download things from it: https://onedrive.live.com/redir?resid=FD00E7C9B4F825E7!3336&authkey=!ABJl0feUG0o9N1Y&ithint=folder%2c

I usually prefer my right angle adapter because I can still get some pressure in line with the screw. But there are also low profile right angle bits with flex shafts that are pretty cool too for fitting in tight spaces.

From a quick Google search, you can do everything you want with existing hardware/software.

• QLab is generally used for sound cues and playback, but can also be used to send MIDI Show Control (MSC) signals to other equipment.
• The Behringer X32 can accept MSC signals and use those signals to recall cues and scenes, as well as muting/unmuting groups and even setting levels for individual channels.

That's a big question requiring a long answer. Some might say a book length answer:

https://www.amazon.com/Mixing-Musical-Broadway-Theatrical-Techniques/dp/1138491446/ref=sr_1_1?dchild=1&keywords=shannon+slaton&qid=1622761923&sr=8-1

Stage Lighting Design by Neil Fraser is am excellent book for a school setting. It covers the basics and has practical exercises in each chapter for the students. Richard Pilbrow and Francis Reid are also worth a look.

After a bit of research it looks like that system doesn’t use DMX protocol, but their own over that DIN cable - so using any general DMX controller wont work. There’s very little info out there about what you have, only found a few pics and the manufacturers website (which you should just call them and see).

I’d suggest buying that cheap controller on amazon and two cheap dimmers, which would all land under $300.

I bought two of these to be quick and dirty, haven’t had issues yet:

https://www.amazon.com/Eliminator-Lighting-ED-15-Special-Equipment/dp/B000WKY4C8

I second the recommendation for the Enttec DMX-USB Pro with QLC+.

I've worked with MyDMX2.0 and it was an all-around frustrating and limited experience for busking, I would be bald from pulling my hair out if I had to do a preprogrammed show with it.

I've also used the DMXIS hosted in Ableton and while it was a step up from MyDMX, it still struck me more as a tool for musicians who want lighting as an afterthought rather than a tool for controlling lights.

My current personal show setup uses Ableton for all the live music, and uses LoopMIDI to send MIDI out from Ableton into QLC+, so I get all the benefits of Ableton's beat synchronization with all the benefits of QLC+'s more robust programming environment. Feel free to PM me if you have any questions about it, I love proselytizing this system to other musicians.

How many circuits do you have on your catwalk? I've never had good luck with front lighting from an electric unless it's Elect.1 lighting the extreme upstage area near the cyc. Otherwise, as you position lights closer, you will end up with those areas being brighter - inverse square law.

I would experiment with using your 36° fixtures for lighting your first few rows of areas downstage, and your 26° (not 28° - those don't exist) for lighting the further upstage areas.

All fixtures should be bench focused. Do some reading on this, because it can get hinky, but in general, you are moving the lamp in/out/and side-to-side within the reflector. A flat field sacrifices brightness but gets the beam more even, and peak field gets you a brighter hotspot with more rapid falloff toward the edges. I would go with the flat field personally, but that's just me. I generally prefer to run the lens barrels all the way out. Hopefully that gets you a soft edge without a lot of halation. Source Fours, I have found, are sometimes too sharp, and may require some frost for even blending. That's actually the reason for the two colorframe runners – one is for frost (or heatshield/other accessory) and the other is for color media. If you don't have the spare frames, you can sandwich them.

I wouldn't combine gels for new colors unless desperate or feeling experimental. Unless the gels are very low saturation, you're going to sacrifice a lot of intensity. Generally with additive color mixing, you don't get the best results anyway.

Get a flat razor but put it in a window scraper body. Most control/safety, difficult to scratch glass.

Love, paint & props

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07HJWCLWM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

It's just a POE security camera setup and DVR. They were not the best, but they were in my budget, One of them wont run in IR but the company gave me back some of my money because they were unable to replace the camera.

The system works for me on two levels. I have additional cameras for the booth and SM, and also a security system that covers the stage and house. I have already caught a couple of people who were in the space and shouldn't have been.

My favorite lighting app is cjCues it lets me view/fire cues on my smartwatch. Its got some fantastic features. I use it a lot when im running Spot, having a live Cue List helps a lot.

https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.cjlights.cjcues

Edit: Added Link

There are a few guide books

https://www.amazon.com/Stage-Management-Essential-Gail-Pallin/dp/1848420145

Go from here and see what you find. The thing is, so much of stage management (and theatre) is simply learning on the fly. If you want, you can DM me and I’ll try to help.

Just last week I found the only app that's even functional with Audio Cues. The free version allows 10 cues per show and several shows (a production could probably be spread over several shows if you have time to switch).

It had a small learning curve for me. I'll probably spring for the $4.99 full version next time I do a show, but there wasn't enough time left in this run to make switching over worth it. I long for the portability though.

Cue 1.

App relies on UDP strings and is a fraction of the price the aRFR. Plus, the developer is great at responding to feedback.

The controls for the Austrian curtain and elevators at Radio City Music Hall. Old school, brass, awesome.

It you want to talk about useful software, I'd definitely add QLab, which seems to be the answer to many people's questions on here. Nice job on the subreddit, I'm on mobile so I haven't yet seen the css, but I really like the idea. Keep it up!

I discovered that LibreOffice Draw (which is open source and multi-platform and free) can open PDFs and allows you to edit them with shapes and text and such. I've used it on a couple of tours now and I quite like it. If the PDF is saved from a text file (so that the text content is text, rather than just each page being a scanned image) you can also edit the text directly. I quite like using it in this way because I can make notes and shuffle things around on a page and eliminate stage directions but still keep the same overall page structure as the SM calling script which makes rehearsals easier ("go back to page xx" means the same for all of us.) I also use the gallery feature in Draw to make a bunch of shapes and such so I don't have to draw each one by hand each time.

My script pages wind up looking like this, with blue circles for DCA assignments, green rounded rectangles for cues (with a red highlight if the desk cue also fires a QLab cue), grey rectangles for auto-follow cues, the grey arrow at the bottom warning of what's after the page turn, and the purple/pink note in the top-left for what the current cue should be (helpful for jumping to a given page in a rehearsal situation, or just confirming that you're in the right cue in general.) I also use red DCA circles and downward arrows as a reminder that a specific DCA is done, and a few other particular squares and such as reminders for verb moves, band moves, offstage entrances, that kind of thing.

I mix from a paper script and during tech I'll scribble notes and changes while mixing, then go back and update them into the master file between runs. One advantage of doing the pages like this is that I can then just reprint only the pages I've changed with each iteration.

Cat iii true rms meter, I like clamp meters. It’ll cost about $125-$200. This is what I have and I like it a lot. Been using this company’s products for a decade.

Amprobe AMP-220 True-RMS 600A AC/DC Clamp Meter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00OYFJ6R0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_0NYDGSPCCE0MPFKXAGGJ?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

I got this one or one very similar several years ago. Amazon has a big variety- including more durable bags in canvas or leather.

I use AudioTool for Android.

Sometimes I'll use this mic with it but I'm usually just using it for identifying feedback frequencies, so I don't even bother with the external mic.

It sounds like you're creating a program similar to QLab, yes? If you have a sound console that will accept either Midi or Midi Show Control commands, QLab can send both over the appropriate interface. If not, as of QLab 3, the Mic Cue can take input from a live source and route it, much like you would on a console. You may need an audio interface with the appropriate number of inputs/outputs to get the mic feed/sound outs in and out of your Mac.

....Or am I totally misreading your question - are there other things you're looking to do programatically other than playback of prerecorded files, fades, and basic mic routing/leveling?

Edit: I didn't mean to imply that you should just adopt QLab. I'm just suggesting that as a source of inspiration. If you have fading/leveling functionality in your program already, maybe finding a way in incorporate a live sound source and treat it like you would cue is a way to go.

Check out QLab from Figure 53.

The demo program is very full featured and powerful, but I believe to save video playback cues you need to purchase a license. They have full licenses and daily licenses.

Yeah, they are WAY easier to work with. While we are talking LED strip, let me give you this fabulous link to a company that makes cheap, high quality aluminum troughs and diffusers for strips in many sizes, colors, and diffusion types:

Muzata Black LED Channel System with Milky White Cover Lens,Aluminum Extrusion Profile Housing for Strip Tape Light Diffuser Track Segments,40Pack 3.3 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07FQ6LQF8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_zPdTbNkYogKSh

I haven't used muffs like that, but I have a pair of shooting earplugs that work like that, there's a diaphragm in them that closes when there's high levels of noise and opens back up when its quieter. I've used them for years in both audio work and in a pro shop where I was building and they've served well for almost 15 years.

These aren't the ones I have, but its the same idea. https://www.amazon.com/Earmonix-Shooting-Impact-Ear-Plugs/dp/B072MJQ197

Yup, receiving DMX is not well documented. https://sourceforge.net/p/dmxlibraryforar/wiki/Home/

This is the library I used. It took me a month to figure out all the pitfalls. I had to hack a little circuit to short the jumper on the DMX shield from enable to disable briefly during startup otherwise the arduino would not boot. For the record I used an arduino Mega 2650 but a regular UNO will work.

I just opened Bright Lights, Big City at freeFall Theatre company in St. Petersburg, FL.

https://instagram.com/p/zsuTNBgmvi

First review! http://www.broadwayworld.com/st-petersburg/article/BWW-Reviews-The-1980s-Come-Alive-with-BRIGHT-LIGHTS-BIG-CITY-at-freeFall-20150302

you basically just have a right triangle you've added a rectangle to. put the info into a calculator and got this. From that you should be able to figure out the cut angles pretty easily

Just wait. After years of working high stress for days on end you end up becoming a bit addicted to it.

This job really messed with your body.

I swear adrenal fatigue is real.

from http://www.vectorworks.net/student/

"How Affordable Is It? How does "FREE" sound to you? Vectorworks Designer with the add-on Renderworks is FREE for U.S. students* and very affordable for start up designers. Vectorworks won't cost you a penny now and won't put you thousands further in debt when you graduate. And you will have all the tools you need to dream it, design it and present your designs to the world - and to your instructors."

I still have an old version of Autosketch that I used for drawing plans. Recently I also had success for simple stuff (stage/room plans) with LibreCAD (Win,Mac,Linux, open source). Sketchup also works. You could also try Draftsight.

There is plenty of documentation on QLab.

Documentation: http://figure53.com/qlab/docs/ https://groups.google.com/forum/#!forum/qlab

If you have the free version, you only have 2 channels of output - by default it'll most likely be your headphone L/R output. Check this by going to Preferences > Audio and check your patch. Simply drag from Patch 1 to your preferred output. If you have an interface, you drag the patch from "Patch 1" to the interface. You then go into your interfaces selected editor to patch those to physical outputs on the interface. From there you plug it into your console and patch wherever you need it from there.

Most theatres use a program called QLab which allows instant playback of sound cues. It can be used in conjunction with an interface or, if only 2 channels are needed, it can be used with the computers standard output.

To actually advance a cue, you can either hit 'space' or you can buy / make dedicated midi controllers, which can be programmed to do anything from advancing cues to adding on fades.

The great thing about QLab is just how powerful it is. With the full payed license, you can add effects, like eq or reverb etc. cross fade tracks, combine multiple tracks for complete soundscapes, which you can easily adjust in the tech rather than having to go back to Pro Tools or whatever DAW you are using. It also can be used for a load of video projection stuff but I haven't really explored that area so can't help too much.

QLab was developed by Figure53, you can download a free version from there site or you can pay $399 or $3 per day for a full license.

Mac? Figure53's Qlab. PC? Stage Research's SFX.

You'll also need some sort of audio interface.

UPDATE: All fixed! Followed some advice on the Blue Room forums and downloaded the K-Lite Codec Pack.

It didn't fix the .avi audio issue, so that remains a mystery, but it did allow me to use my original .mp4's without torpedoing the program. Thanks all for your suggestions :)

Download Advanced IP Scanner

Little program, does a ping to every IP address in the range you specify (like 192.168.1.1-254), and returns results with the IPs that responded, the MAC address, the manufacturer name, and if the device has its own webserver for configuration you see the title of the page and a link to it.

Could set up a QLab Remote instance over some sort of VPN / Hamachi (www.vpn.net)? Sending OSC / Network cues etc

There was someone on here making raspberry pi based cuelights - which would probably be useful research - as they would almost certainly be able to be put on a hamachi vpn.

Do you actually need them both to 'play' on both phones? can you mirror an iPhone screen to another iPhone? Then you're only 'Playing' it on one phone, but it's on both. (https://airmore.com/mirror-iphone-to-iphone.html)

Or are they separate videos?

Hi, I came across this in the QLab group this morning and thought it light interest you :

https://groups.google.com/g/qlab/c/T33bUDooLy0

https://flic.io

This is a small button you can hide somewhere which can send osc messages... I don’t think it’s the best solution for you gunshot problem but it might be a solution.

The category of software you're looking for is asset tracking. This is a random open source solution (primarily targeted at IT, but you can likely make it work) that I found by googling around. I played with the demo for a few minutes and it looks pretty usable.

It's a PHP app that you would host yourself, either on a VPS (such as from DigitalOcean or any other VPS provider) or a computer locally.

I have used Foxit Reader for when I want to add annotations or fill in forms (that don't have fill in slots). Their text comments operation remind me a bit of ms paint when it comes to entering text. But you can drag comments around and change colors.

It'll take a bit of setup, but the OBi200 VOIP box is designed to ring an analog phone when someone calls it. Of course you'll need an internet connection and a google voice account, and there's the remote possibility of a robocaller randomly dialing your number during the show, which wouldn't be great.

If that's not acceptable I pulled this thread off a quick google, so that could be a starting point.

Would something like this work if you just chop up an existing 4pin cable?

Lighting stencils! like this one from Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/Field-Template-English-Metric-Stencil/dp/B004I0C00G/ref=sr_1_24?ie=UTF8&qid=1484907072&sr=8-24&keywords=lighting+stencil

I started with Makitas, but the replacement batteries cost about as much as the drills themselves. I have switched to Bosch and have been very happy with them. The drill and the batteries have help up well. You can buy replacement batteries at reasonable prices too. You can get two 12V batteries from Amazon of $65

https://www.amazon.com/Bosch-Replacement-Lithium-Ion-Capacity-BAT414-2pk/dp/B00YWLR2BS/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1510129441&sr=8-7&keywords=bosch+battery+12v

no prob...up to them if they don't want to spend $7 to keep several hundred $$ of gear working.. added a link for you to deoxit...can find it on Amazon

Well I found one gobo light sold on Amazon, brand called Instagobo. can meet my limitted budget, and it has included the custom gobo and shipping cost, so I am considering to try one.

Gobo Light

Check out the Amazon brand rechargables. We finally switched to rechargables this year and I can't believe I was afraid to do it before. I was always afraid they wouldn't last or the slightly different voltage would cause mic issues, but they worked perfectly. No more guilty conscience over the boxes of quarter-used alkalines!

I used these batteries and this charger.

This is a good option if you have several runs nearby and need individual control. If you only have a couple, or many that are spread out, this might be a better option. There are plenty of other configurations on Amazon. Search for LED DMX decoder, and you'll find a lot.

Either way, you will also need an appropriate power supply that matches the voltage of the tape and the total current through the controller.

Whenever I do lanterns, I use a dremel to cut the bottom completely open (cut a big circle out, smooth out your rough metal edges after). This is also doable by drilling a starter hole and then using tin snips.

This big open area becomes my battery storage and also a spot for a wireless dimmer if you're doing that. Next, I cut a piece of 1/4" luuan/skinply into a circle that fits into the base, paint it out to match the lantern, and apply velcro to it and the edge of my remaining lip in the base. Voila! Removable base!

Next, I remove the wick and little holder thing. This can usually be pried off. If you can only get the wick out and removed enough other gunk to get into your opened reservoir, you can also just tinsnip open the wick holder to make it wider. Now you can insert either a 12v lamp base, a battery operated candle, etc. Because you have access inside, you can also decide to install a switch on the lantern base to allow your actor to turn it on/off.

OR...you can make your life really easy and convince your team to just buy an LED lantern. You'll find them lots of places now because of halloween, but you can always find them on Amazon, etc. https://www.amazon.com/Seasons-Rustic-Fashioned-Light-Lantern/dp/B00BLPSGG8/

The Architecture Reference & Specification Book might be what you are looking for. Very well illustrated and I reference it all the time. In fact, the page about common window types and sizes is included in the "Look inside" preview so I saved you $20 right there!

Idk about diameter but I like this. It only comes in lengths 50 ft and longer but it’s cheap and I use it for other stuff too but really any paracord with a MBS of more than 20lbs will do (assuming you’re only using it for small hand tools.) I recommend nylon (stronger, better shock absorber but keep it out of the sun) or polyester (not as good with shock loading, but more durable) though because they’re stretchy and provides a little shock absorbtion and holds a tight knot better. That said, I treat my tool lanyards like all my other fall protection equipment so take care of it, inspect it for damage often, and replace as needed.

Edit: I noticed from the way you spell favorite, you’re probably European so I suggest looking here. I also recommend 550 paracord (type 3) as it’s more comfortable and gives you more safety factor.

It’d be easy. I actually need to re-wire this to have a lamp switch. Probably would be easy to buy a track light kit and wire it to this. That’s a great idea.

Edit: they’re on amazon fairly cheap

I was using a mesh network app to make phone calls and send messages, serval in the play store. The phones to receive and call only had that installed. When you picked up the call the screen would black out. There wasn't any need to install a kiosk mode on the prop phones but it should be possible. The only other thing was router with no internet access.

Free Graphing Calculator 2 for Android (maybe there's an ios version, not sure). In addition to being a really nice scientific calculator, it also has a simplified math cheat sheet textbook built in so say you're trying to calculate an angle, rather than trying to remember trig class, just look in the trig section of the book. It's great for people like me who suck at math but need to use it almost constantly and often need to do really complex stuff or need to do the same things over and over.

Sorry it took me so long.

https://imgur.com/gallery/ABkyelx

Stand is a mic stand we had at the theatre.

Hoop is from a big catching net. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07JZ5LL7K?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

I cut a piece of dowel and drilled a hole for it to slip over the mic stand and a smaller hole for the hoop to thread into.

Mic part is a PVC cap with a shower drain on a long machine screw that goes through the back of the cap.

Springs are just tied on with floral wire.

It was a sloppy quick job. I’m confident that with a little more time and care it would look even better.

• Peter Brook: The Empty Space
• Edward Tufte: all four, but maybe Beautiful Evidence and Visual Explanations if you can't find them all. (Just get them from the library)
• Strunk and White: the Elements of Style
• Richard Feynman: Surely You're Joking, Mr. Feynman

I went a bit deeper, found some more ios apps but did find a couple ok sound playback apps for Android and added them to the list.

1. Sound Trigger https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=net.soundtrigger&hl=en

2. Stage Manager (in the SM section of my list) does do some limited playback. https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.montysmagic.StageManager&hl=en

If you've got any intelligent lighting fixtures, especially those of the older/cheaper variety, a dip-switch calculator is a must. I use https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.adl.dmxcalc - handy as it can increment in whatever interval you want; as well as change which way is 'on'.

Additionally, a gel colour picker app and RGB colour picker, if your desk doesn't have one.

See if they can source a Telrad for you. It makes pickups so much easier.

Why not dress a rubber bulb like a blue bird and when the time comes, the actor can squeeze it and it shoots out some feathers and powder?

Moving lights work with any console, but it can be a pain to program them. I used to have a set of I-Cues and scrollers on an ETC Express 48/96; we used the sub-banks instead of encoder wheels. You can do something similar with moving lights on the Element.

The movers that you'll be able to afford at a high school are probably something like this. They're perfectly fine for learning, but they don't really push a lot of lumens. The other problem is, the Element won't have an existing profile, so you'll need to learn how to do that as well.

Every system we send overseas is all at 120v. UPS’s are always the limiting factor; and things like Furmans.

Depending on where you’re going, you can specify the need for 120v power and either carry some transformers or they may be able to natively supply it.

LiteFuze transformers come in handy and work decently well. https://www.amazon.com/LiteFuze-LT-5000-Voltage-Converter-Transformer/dp/B008GQTXS0

I've used these with ULX: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0187W71RM

I was able to get them to last for 6+ hours, their capacity of 600 mAh compares favorably with alkaline.
Given the prices of 9V ProCell, these will pay for themselves after about 4 uses.

Have your director check out these.

These and a few chargers will set you up. I'm a high school teacher and we use these. They work great. Every few years you'll need to cycle out the batteries as they hold less of a charge. But it's cheaper, better for the environment, and you avoid the stress of "WE FORGOT TO BUY NEW BATTERIES!"

They're particularly helpful for things like school assemblies, rentals and talent shows. Never have to burn through your fresh batteries for someone else's show.

Like these? https://www.amazon.com/Socket-Screw-Point-Stainless-Quantity/dp/B07CPLJZWN/ref=mp_s_a_1_36?c=ts&keywords=Set+Screws&qid=1665081650&qu=eyJxc2MiOiI3LjA5IiwicXNhIjoiNi41NyIsInFzcCI6IjYuNDAifQ%3D%3D&refinements=p_n_feature_fourteen_bro...

I would get one of these, one is availabe for $31 as a warehouse deal right now, and they pop up all the time at that price. I've bought 4 of them 2 have been totally fine, and one had the clips bent, but I just bent them back to square and it's been good. https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B07H9RJWJY/

Add a cheap mirror ball motor, a couple cheap LED pinspots, throw a power strip above the ceiling and run an extension cord through the ceiling and have it drop out along a wall with a power outlet nearby and your ready for a party.

I am really intrigued by u/lostmy10yearaccount's suggestion - seems sturdy, semi-permanent, and with a point to take a load for a larger item, if needed (or to help support the ceiling).

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Probably not the best suggestion over the heads of students, but these clips are a strictly temporary solution that are used in the film industry. You'd need a 5/8 receiver on the end, with some sort of mount for the motor - which ends up dropping you several more inches from the ceiling.

I have a handful of old ones at my theatre that I use for this purpose, as well as for conductor cams and occasionally stage use (directors these days are obsessed with live-feed projections). I think an important element is having that old-school BNC output so there is zero lag. Otherwise, I'm not sure how much quality matters.

Looking on Amazon I found something like this that would probably work. Not sure how well those LED IR lights work, but seems like it has good reviews.

You can find squeeze clamp clips made for a drop ceiling grid on Amazon. I just bought some for my niece to hang mirror balls with in her freshman dorm room:

Ceiling Hook Clips Ceiling Tile... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07W7BSZJW?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

I much prefer the Viking (https://www.amazon.com/Viking-DLE-200B-Two-Way-Line-Simulator/dp/B004PXK314), as it has the proper ringing cadence built into it. No need to time yourself to push a button. Plus, if you get a USB-analog modem, you can have this cued via QLab, SCS or other app.

I use these for this all the time:

https://www.amazon.com/Micca-Full-HD-Portable-Digital-Player/dp/B008NO9RRM/

They can be set to play the file on the SD Card / USB Stick on powerup and can be set to loop forever. Can't beat $50.

https://smile.amazon.com/Back-Stage-Guide-Management-3rd/dp/0823098028/ref=sr\_1\_4?crid=38RP5CCYGONQP&keywords=stage+management&qid=1662254532&sprefix=stage+management%2Caps%2C507&sr=8-4

From my brief stint in a screen printing shop, these work wonders on paint/ink. They're very powerful and can literally shoot a hole through your material if you're not careful. Not sure how it'll work on drapes though.

I’ve used these Alfa antenna on AKS+ transmitter units. Have not tested them with the Lumen Radio transmitter units that I now prefer. This link has them with RP SMA connectors I believe.

https://www.amazon.com/Alfa-2-4HGz-WiFi-Antenna-Screw/dp/B003ZWPS3O

If you can patch a direct connection end to end (not going through a switch or router), you can just get an "hdmi cat 5 extender" such as this. There are some cheaper options but you need to make sure they support the length you need to go. Also you do need to make sure you have cat 5e at least most likely.

What you're proposing will work but it could be a bit excessive buying separate power supplies and battery adapters for every candle.

My personal preference would be to run them off a common power supply where possible, and have low voltage distributed to each candle. This could just act as a simple battery replacement connected to a non-dim dimmer (or DMX relay on the low voltage side)... but you'd be limited to the flicker pattern baked into the candles and the extinguishing action would be very abrupt - not natural looking at all.

If you want to spend some time on this and give the lighting designer more control, you could look into wiring the candle LEDs directly into DMX LED controllers, bypassing the candles' internal control circuits (e.g. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07XXVN75C/ - haven't used this specific product myself, linked as an example only!). The candles would appear as 30 separate channels and you could tweak the flickering and extinguishing cues to look just right.

(disclaimer: I haven't used QLab for lighting so my second option might actually be a programming nightmare :)

I had to do a similar body a couple years ago (different show). I bought one of these, and then had to add in a few things since the arms are kinda floppy, but it was a good base, and under $100.

https://www.amazon.com/STUFFED-POSABLE-MANNEQUIN-DISPLAY-Halloween/dp/B077N6NZH4/ref=mp_s_a_1_23?crid=23WZ1ZYYYAO90&keywords=dummy+body&pscroll=1&qid=1658803320&sprefix=dummy+body%2Caps%2C115&sr=8-23&wIndexMainSlot=25

If you don't need MIDI for anything else, I'd use a Boss FS6 foot controller into a GPIO MIDI Box. From my research there isn't a ton in the way of small MIDI-enabled foot controllers.

Thanks u/EverydayVelociraptor & u/BarfedBarca! Im going to get both of these and do some tests! Ill also do all the prep thanks to u/theantivirus

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black

grey

https://www.chauvetdj.com/products/d-fi-xlr-pack/

+

https://www.amazon.ca/Digital-Display-Controller-Connection-DC12-24V/dp/B0749K8Q6T/ (or similar)

+

Power for the above.

This is one of the situations where buying is better than making.

You haven't made it clear if the LED is homebrew or retail, and the console sounds like an On PC?

Wireless DMX is solved via https://smile.amazon.com/Donner-Wireless-Receiver-Transmitter-Lighting/dp/B00URFJ0MM if this is a retail fixture. This can even be used if you are homebrew as well, just supply the DC to the receiver also along with a https://smile.amazon.com/Decoder-Controller-Dimmer-Channel-display/dp/B0749K8Q6T

And just plug the broadcaster into a fixture at the end of a dmx chain, you surely already have dmx running to something on the stage, just tag it to the end.

Lockport Gaff tape is *garbage*. Not the real stuff. A well-meaning producer bought some for the last production I did and I must say not a good choice. I'd go with ProGaff or GafferPower. Both of those are great brands I've used.

https://www.amazon.com/Pro-Gaffer-Gaffers-Tape-Black/dp/B000QC0XZO

This might be pretty effective. It’s essentially a pull string party popper without the confetti. A little flash. A nice sharp crack sound. If you can tie one end discretely where the performer can pull the string, the POP can be the cue for the blackout.

Amazon link below.

https://www.amazon.com/144pieces-Perimeter-Dominator-Boo-Traps-MPNPS144/dp/B081D8F33X/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?crid=2JJEKU2BPM073&keywords=booby+trap+firework&qid=1654732985&sprefix=booby+trap+firework%2Caps%2C65&sr=8-3

Don't wear female clothing but I use (this tool pouch)[https://www.amazon.com/Custom-Leathercraft-1523-Ziptop-Utility/dp/B0047O3TYE/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?crid=213OYKV0KRQZD&keywords=custom+leathercraft+1523&qid=1654566288&sprefix=custom+leathercraft+1523%2Caps%2C100&sr=8-3] with a 2" black canvas belt. That way I can have all my necessary tools without pockets. I also have a black chalk bag so I can place wing nuts/nuts/bolts/washers etc.

The email list "Nothing for the Group" is doing a survey on this right now! If you fill it out they'll send you a scrubbed copy of the results.

Bills, Bills, Bills - Submission Form - Ai rtable https://airtable.com/shru7Usqgpr7zemOs

https://www.amazon.com/Technical-Design-Solutions-Theatre-Collection/dp/0240804929/ref=pd_bxgy_sccl_1/145-1774775-9290524?pd_rd_w=N474n&content-id=amzn1.sym.a6bed837-ef89-4bc6-a842-3962a5387175&pf_rd_p=a6bed837-ef89-4bc6-a842-3962a5387175&...

might have some info for you.

I highly recommend using tie line (something like this) instead of zip ties; zip ties are a pain in the behind to use and can cut you quite easily, tie line is reusable and won't cut anyone! used for lighting and sound cable and securing anything you want tied down.