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What a cutie! Russian Tortoise?? I have one as well (if it is, in fact, a Russian). For christmas, i got her two "cozies" off of Etsy from this awesome lady.
omgggg :D okay! I only have one turtle right now but ill make more soon. Also if someone wants a special color turtle they can message me and ill make it and put it on etsy for them :) Thank you guys. I make every turtle with love xD
Just make sure that the second that little guy starts growing, you either get a bigger tank with a lid, or placed the lid on that. When I first got my red eared slider, I didn’t know they were good at climbing and one escaped. Another suggestion would be to get a basking area that stays in the middle of the tank. That is because turtles have it much harder trying to climb out if it’s not on land, here’s an example (https://youtu.be/QrvfthrHYMI) Make sure whenever you buy him a new item for his tank, that you watch him carefully to make sure he doesn’t do anything that could injure/kill them. If you are getting them a new basking station make sure the water level is high enough for them to get on, as young turtles don’t have a lot of strength in their legs. I would not recommend one of these as a basking area, as these do not stick to the bottom of the tank and can be used for your little guy to escape. (https://www.amazon.sg/Penn-Plax-Reptology-Floating-Basking-Platform/dp/B004PBCFG2/ref=sr_1_2?dchild=1&keywords=Turtle+basking&qid=1624665217&sr=8-2) I actually used a very big rock (65 kg) for my turtle basking area, I placed it against some strong bricks and placed it near the middle. This way my turtle can’t escape using it but they still have a basking area. If you ever decide to put his new tank outside, remember to drill a hole in the side of it. Because if it rains, the rain water will raise the water level and if the water doesn’t escaped it will just keep rising till it’s high enough that you’re turtle can escape. Sorry if the English and grammar were not great, English is my second language. Edit: after posting this i rewatched the video, keep that box of wires around 30cm away encase water splashes from the tank on them.
That is a great rec, I think you can get a pre-made above tank basking area for $45 on US Amazon
If you go on youtube you can also look up how to DIY one if you're outside the US and it's either too expensive or not available. If you do DIY just be sure to secure any way the turtles could possibly get out, even if it doesn't seem like it should be possible. Some are surprisingly good climbers.
Yeah, he needs a UVB bulb and a basking spot. Is he outdoors? Glass filters out UVB, so that's not too good. Sunlight a few hours a day WITHOUT glass is probably OKish for UVB, but he needs more time basking so I'd at a minimum get him a basking light.
I know you're on a budget, so I'd try to find an incandescent (or a halogen) light bulb (NOT LED, they don't produce heat), at least 75W. That can serve as a cheap basking light. It needs to get his basking spot to a temp of around 90degF - you can check with thermometer.
UVB bulb wise, exoTerra is the cheapest one I see that I know works.
You can use a clamp light to hold each bulb. The UVB bulb will last you around 6-8months.
It's really important he gets basking during the day, and UVB helps keep him healthy too.
Weekly water changes are needed no matter what, however with a larger tank, the correct filter and equipment, you will only need to do about a 50 to 75 % water change per week.
Ideally the turtle needs 10 gallons per 1 inch of shell length, so a 5 inch turtle would need 50 gallons of water.
Get a canister filter. Sun sun makes affordable ones, you can get them from Amazon. I use this one.
And to make water changes easy without a bucket or lifting, get an Aqueon water changer. It hooks to your faucet and can drain and refill your tank.
I'll just point out two things that no one else has yet:
1) There are automated turtle and fish feeders that attach to the rim of the tank. Obviously they're only for pellets, not veggies, but it would be a little better than no food for a week. Here's one on Amazon, and there's links on this page to similar products
2) I would have someone come by to check on him at least once. I don't know how old your musk is, or how big your tank is, but things could go wrong. A light could burn out, or burst/shatter, the filter or tank could start leaking, the heater could stop working or burst, etc. Chances are nothing will happen, but if something does you don't want to wait a week to find out, especially if it's a water leak.
Enjoy your vacation!
What about using cork flats somehow? They float and are quite natural. I bought these from Amazon. However my turtle wasn’t a fan of basking on it. They can easily be cut into smaller pieces and have holes punched through them to attach to other pieces in the tank as needed.
Here’s a link to it, thanks to u/ereicha for finding it: https://www.amazon.com/OASIS-64226-Turtle-Ramp-16-Inch/dp/B0006L12HS
Very sturdy and good size, has held up for three years so far. The suction cups unstick sometimes but that’s just because I’ve never replaced mine.
Well from what I understand Mama is several years old and was with a loving family until they moved and couldn't bring her along. They gave her to Petco who had to teach her how to swim because the previous family, while loving didn't have an aquarium for her. The next family they gave her to brought her back the next day and left her in the parking lot. When the employees returned to Petco they found her with a bleeding shell (she had been dropped or run over). PetCo nursed her back to health and placed her back in their aquarium. My girlfriend and I came along and saw her, the biggest turtle in the tank letting all the other turtles bask on top of her. I named her Mama immediately and PetCo gave her to me for free. When I brought her home she was overly aggressive with my sideneck turtles so I gave Mama her own aquarium in my office. Since then she has really come out of her shell, if you'll forgive the expression.
alternate shot: https://www.flickr.com/photos/quadceratops/13910936989/
hard to describe the size and there's nothing in the shots for context, but it was like 2x the size of the typical painted turtles that i see around here. wondering if it looks like a normal turtle, or could it be a released non-native ex-pet or something? anyhow... just curious. thanks in advance for your input!
He's super cute, and it's awesome that you're giving him a good home!
The easiest option is probably just to out-stubborn him and offer only vegetables every day. Turtles can go weeks without food.
You can also try making your own turtle food. I haven't done it myself, but it sounds easy—based on this recipe you just mix chopped veggies with tuna water and reptile gelatin, freeze it overnight, then thaw and serve. Just google "turtle jello shots."
Best of luck!
LaBrinx Designs Extra Large Wide Hanging Turtle Ramp - Aquatic Reptile Basking Platform https://www.amazon.com/dp/B085LSZ4CQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_1DE17VRK5D9E30GWV4TP?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
It’s a basking platform for bigger tanks and bigger turtles like adult ones
It depends if you’re talking indoors or outdoor, you can build one for fairly cheap outdoors. If you’re talking indoor, what i did was buy a super large bookshelf on craigslist for $20 (you can sometimes find them for free, or you can buy brand new for under $100 at walmart) and flip it on it’s back with the shelves facing up, then take the shelves out and it becomes a super long wooden box, i house mine in that when it’s too cold outside. i personally am housing my box turtle in this, outdoors. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07VSFRM2B/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_VK1SVRXZGS1SB1DSN5VB
I recommend this for your tank. Fill the water up to the line on the ramp. If that's a 55 gallon, around 12 inches wide, this can sit directly on top.
Think of the temperature at the top of the shell where it will get the most heat. Use an object thats as tall as your turtle and take the temp of that. Thats what the max temp should be of whatever the hell google says. If you find adjusting the lights to be a pain in the neck I would suggest this since I had the same problem. And btw nice basking area love DIY stuff.
I've used a SunSun HW302 (https://amazon.com/dp/B00MGX7JXA/) on a 75 gallon and it worked fine with one turtle/no fish. Rated at 265gph, so it's just over 3x tank capacity. Longevity is OK - had one spring a small leak a year or so ago after a few years (I think) of use, but they're only $50 and that makes them a good budget option.
If you're wanting to get a bit more cleaning ability (or are adding fish or something to the tank), they make an HW304 that is around 500GPH. I've never used that one - when I need that much power I've used Fluval.
If you're open to spending more, /u/FlashyCow1 is right suggesting Fluval. A Fluval 407 is a great choice for this size aquarium. However, the price tag is normally close to $200 I believe.
Yup this is exactly it, though I actually bought these egg crate panels off amazon that were the right size that I needed it already, so I didn't have to cut them. I also bought a PVC pipe cutter ($14 at Home Depot) to be able to cut the PVC at whatever size I want. Then it's just a matter of figuring out what size and how tall you want it.
You could get a thermometer to put in the tank in that area, or you could get an infrared thermometer to measure to the temps in that area if you don't want to clutter up your tank: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00837ZGRY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
and no problem - happy to help
Its a 2 piece magnetic glass cleaner that you put on each side of the glass to easily remove algae but you should still look into whats causing the algae
I hope that tank is big enough for your turtle!
I personally use this filter for my hatchling and find it good, plus the cartridges are only $1 each on amazon. You can add it to a tank very easily, and if you submerge it halfway or more it is completely silent. But I just want to note I am not a filter expert, so hopefully someone else can chime in.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003JVYY7M/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_CAhQEb5WMG2HC
And, yes, you want the larger 125 GPH (for 55 gallon tank) one because for turtles your filter should be rated for 3x the size of water you actually have.
Also this one just auctions to the wall so it doesnt stick out like most filters. Make sure that works for your tank!
RES hatchlings (less than a year old) and juveniles (1 year old) eat 50% protein and 50% veggies. Adult RES (2 years or older) eat 70% veggies and 30% protein. For veggies, green leaf lettuce and red leaf lettuce are great options you can get at your local grocery store, and you can feed them one leaf (for each turtle) a day that is the size of their shell. Take out whatever they don’t eat at the end of the day so it doesn’t rot. For protein it’s good to use turtle pellets (Mazuri is the most recommended), and give them enough that could fit in their head (excluding the neck); hatchlings should get pellets once a day, juveniles can get pellets about 3 or 4 times a week, and adults can get pellets 2 or 3 times a week. For treats, they can have fruit or dried/live animals like rivershrimp and/or mealworms—but you only want to give those maybe once every two weeks. Treats are not needed, and veggies and pellets should be their main food sources. Make sure to put their food in the water as they need it to eat since they don’t produce saliva. You can also add in cuttlebone (make sure to remove any metal and plastic from it) or a calcium block for them to munch on in case they need more calcium (they will eat it as needed).
Do you have time to order a timer? I have this one where i have 4 outlets on a timer, the other 4 are always on.
Fosmon Power Strip with Timer,... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07QG3PWT2?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Worth it. Though i feel like always on is better than always off for a week but I really dont know.
You can use an aquarium intake filter mesh cover to prevent fish and other smaller animals from getting stuck in the filter intake like this: Aquarium Intake Filter Mesh Cover, Stainless Steal and Sponge.
He may be experiencing a deficiency in his diet because YBS should be eating mostly veggies and less protein. YBS hatchlings (less than a year old) and juveniles (1 year old) eat 50% protein and 50% veggies. Adult YBS (2 years or older) eat 70% veggies and 30% protein. For veggies, green leaf lettuce and red leaf lettuce are great options you can get at your local grocery store, and you can feed them one leaf a day that is the size of their shell. Take out whatever they don’t eat at the end of the day so it doesn’t rot. For protein it’s good to use turtle pellets (Mazuri is the most recommended), and give them enough that could fit in their head (excluding the neck); hatchlings should get pellets once a day, juveniles can get pellets about 3 or 4 times a week, and adults can get pellets 2 or 3 times a week. Fish, shrimp, worms, bugs, and fruits should not be regular part of their diet and should just be used for treats maybe once every two weeks. They’re not going to provide much nutrition for them other than loading them with high fat and sugar. Veggies and pellets should be their main food source.
When turtles refuse to eat veggies, the turtle community recommends doing the “tough love” approach where you only feed them veggies until they start eating it—then you can add back in the pellet feeding. They can go months without eating in the wild, so a week or two of not eating should be fine. I personally would cut out all the other stuff you were feeding him as it may cause him to stop eating what he should be eating again (veggies and pellets).
Nice, thats actually very interesting ! And something I've never heard of. They are pretty cheap as well. https://www.amazon.com/REPTI-ZOO-Tester-Reptile-Fluorescent/dp/B07TJHQ2JR I'll buy one today. Thank you for the info! I bought a 5.0 bulb when I set up the tank instead of getting the 10. I'll use one of these cards to make sure he's getting enough UVB.
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Diet RES hatchlings (less than a year old) and juveniles (1 year old) eat 50% protein and 50% veggies. Adult RES (2 years or older) eat 70% veggies and 30% protein. For veggies, green leaf lettuce and red leaf lettuce are great options you can get at your local grocery store, and you can feed them one leaf (for each turtle) a day that is the size of their shell. Take out whatever they don’t eat at the end of the day so it doesn’t rot. For protein it’s good to use turtle pellets (Mazuri is the most recommended), and give them enough that could fit in their head (excluding the neck); hatchlings should get pellets once a day, juveniles can get pellets about 3 or 4 times a week, and adults can get pellets 2 or 3 times a week. For treats, they can have fruit or dried/live animals like rivershrimp and/or mealworms—but you only want to give those once a week or once every two weeks. Veggies and protein/pellets should be their main food source. Make sure to put their food in the water as they need it to eat since they don’t produce saliva.
I think that covers all the essentials! Please let me know if you have any more questions :)
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Temp You want to make sure to get a heater for the water, and there are ones that tell you the temperature of the water as well. It should be around 75 to 80 degrees Fahrenheit depending on the age of the turtle (hatchlings will need it slightly hotter), and you should get a thermometer for the basking area to make sure it’s at the right temperature from the lamps (between 90 and 95 degrees Fahrenheit).
Diet RES hatchlings (less than a year old) and juveniles (1 year old) eat 50% protein and 50% veggies. Adult RES (2 years or older) eat 70% veggies and 30% protein. For veggies, green leaf lettuce and red leaf lettuce are great options you can get at your local grocery store, and you can feed them one leaf (for each turtle) a day that is the size of their shell. Take out whatever they don’t eat at the end of the day so it doesn’t rot. For protein it’s good to use turtle pellets (Mazuri is the most recommended), and give them enough that could fit in their head (excluding the neck); hatchlings should get pellets once a day, juveniles can get pellets about 3 or 4 times a week, and adults can get pellets 2 or 3 times a week. For treats, they can have fruit or dried/live animals like rivershrimp and/or mealworms—but you only want to give those once a week or once every two weeks. Veggies and protein/pellets should be their main food source. Make sure to put their food in the water as they need it to eat since they don’t produce saliva.
I think that covers all the essentials! Please let me know if you have any more questions :)
They’re right that turtles need a light and dark cycle but you can have a small nightlight for viewing and set a timer so it goes off at reasonable time. Put it behind some plants so the light is diffused. I have a couple that are like this but not the same company. You can also rotate it so the lights are pointing to the back of the tank.
That’s quite a lot of protein for a RES. Usually the dried worms or dried shrimp are for treats (once every two weeks) as they don’t have a lot of the nutrition they need and it’s pretty fattening. For an adult RES (2 years or older), their diet should consist of 70% veggies and 30% protein. For veggies, green leaf lettuce and red leaf lettuce are great options you can get at your local grocery store, and you can feed them one leaf a day that is the size of their shell. Take out whatever they don’t eat at the end of the day so it doesn’t rot. For protein it’s good to use turtle pellets (Mazuri is the most recommended), and give them enough that could fit in their head (excluding the neck); hatchlings ( less than a year old) should get pellets once a day, juveniles (a year old) can get pellets about 3 or 4 times a week, and adults can get pellets 2 or 3 times a week. Veggies and protein/pellets should be their main food source. Make sure to put their food in the water as they need it to eat since they don’t produce saliva.
I think I identified the issue but thanks for the input. autostop valve
Leaking water between the input and output hoses right where the grey flow adjustment lever is at. Probably a bad seal
Many people recommend the Fluval Series canisters. You want to get a filter that cleans a tank two to three times the size of it—so if you have a 75 gallon tank, you need a filter that cleans between 150 to 225 gallons (turtles are VERY filthy, so this is needed if you don’t want to clean the filter every week or two). You want to look at the capacity the filter cleans, NOT the GPH (gallons per hour). It’s often in the description of the product, not the title.
I use the Python. It attaches to a faucet or hose and siphons that way. It works really well, but you have to be in a spot near one of those two…python
I read the comments on my previous posts. So thank you everyone for recommendations. I checked out the Sunsun brand and I can’t afford it at the moment. And I couldn’t figure out how to put the link in the post but here it is
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Diet Painted hatchlings (less than a year old) and juveniles (1 year old) eat 50% protein and 50% veggies. Adult painted turtles (2 years or older) eat 70% veggies and 30% protein. For veggies, green leaf lettuce and red leaf lettuce are great options you can get at your local grocery store, and you can feed them one leaf (for each turtle) a day that is the size of their shell. Take out whatever they don’t eat at the end of the day so it doesn’t rot. For protein it’s good to use turtle pellets (Mazuri is the most recommended), and give them enough that could fit in their head (excluding the neck); hatchlings should get pellets once a day, juveniles can get pellets about 3 or 4 times a week, and adults can get pellets 2 or 3 times a week. For treats, they can have fruit or dried/live animals like rivershrimp and/or mealworms—but you only want to give those once a week or once every two weeks. Veggies and protein/pellets should be their main food source. Make sure to put their food in the water as they need it to eat since they don’t produce saliva.
I think that covers all the essentials! Please let me know if you have any more questions :)
There’s only two above tank basking platforms that I know of are commercially made: Penn-Plax Turtle Topper and Thrive Turtle Elevated Basking Loft. For the Penn-Plax Turtle Topper, you will need to modify the ramp as it’s too short, steep, and slippery. I bought it for my turtle, and I didn’t attach the ramp for it and instead attached a longer ramp with reptile carpet on it for grip (used zip ties). Then I used rubberized plant ties to tie the ramp up to the turtle topper because my RES was too heavy and the ramp would bend. For the Thrive Basking Loft, you’ll have to modify both the bottom of the platform and the ramp since it’s mesh and turtles get their nails stuck in it often and lose them. Using material like cork bark tile (pretty inexpensive) on the bottom and the ramp should do the trick.
(Continued)
Diet RES hatchlings (less than a year old) and juveniles (1 year old) eat 50% protein and 50% veggies. Adult RES (2 years or older) eat 70% veggies and 30% protein. For veggies, green leaf lettuce and red leaf lettuce are great options you can get at your local grocery store, and you can feed them one leaf (for each turtle) a day that is the size of their shell. Take out whatever they don’t eat at the end of the day so it doesn’t rot. For protein it’s good to use turtle pellets (Mazuri is the most recommended), and give them enough that could fit in their head (excluding the neck); hatchlings should get pellets once a day, juveniles can get pellets about 3 or 4 times a week, and adults can get pellets 2 or 3 times a week. For treats, they can have fruit or dried/live animals like rivershrimp and/or mealworms—but you only want to give those once a week or once every two weeks. Veggies and protein/pellets should be their main food source. Make sure to put their food in the water as they need it to eat since they don’t produce saliva.
I think that covers all the essentials! Please let me know if you have any more questions :)
Hard to say what you consider a lot of money, but I use a combo UVA/UVB/Heat light that runs around $30. I believe you are supposed to replace this every 3 months.
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Diet Slider hatchlings (less than a year old) and juveniles (1 year old) eat 50% protein and 50% veggies. Adult sliders (2 years or older) eat 70% veggies and 30% protein. For veggies, green leaf lettuce and red leaf lettuce are great options you can get at your local grocery store, and you can feed them one leaf (for each turtle) a day that is the size of their shell. Take out whatever they don’t eat at the end of the day so it doesn’t rot. For protein it’s good to use turtle pellets (Mazuri is the most recommended), and give them enough that could fit in their head (excluding the neck); hatchlings should get pellets once a day, juveniles can get pellets about 3 or 4 times a week, and adults can get pellets 2 or 3 times a week. For treats, they can have fruit or dried/live animals like rivershrimp and/or mealworms—but you only want to give those once a week or once every two weeks. Veggies and protein/pellets should be their main food source. Make sure to put their food in the water as they need it to eat since they don’t produce saliva.
I think that covers all the essentials! Please let me know if you have any more questions :)
Diet Slider hatchlings (less than a year old) and juveniles (1 year old) eat 50% protein and 50% veggies. Adult sliders (2 years or older) eat 70% veggies and 30% protein. For veggies, green leaf lettuce and red leaf lettuce are great options you can get at your local grocery store, and you can feed them one leaf (for each turtle) a day that is the size of their shell. Take out whatever they don’t eat at the end of the day so it doesn’t rot. For protein it’s good to use turtle pellets (Mazuri is the most recommended), and give them enough that could fit in their head (excluding the neck); hatchlings should get pellets once a day, juveniles can get pellets about 3 or 4 times a week, and adults can get pellets 2 or 3 times a week. For treats, they can have fruit or dried/live animals like rivershrimp and/or mealworms—but you only want to give those once a week or once every two weeks. Veggies and protein/pellets should be their main food source. Make sure to put their food in the water as they need it to eat since they don’t produce saliva.
I think that covers all the essentials! Please let me know if you have any more questions :)
This is the one I have works greathttps://www.amazon.com/dp/B07F2ZRRM5?psc=1&ref_=cm_sw_r_apin_ct_EPK01748406DHVV1DKRW
I would recommend a turtle topper. There’s only two that I know of: Penn Plax Turtle Topper and Thrive Turtle Elevated Basking Loft.
The Penn Plax ramp is short, steep, and slippery, so I had to personally add another ramp that was longer with reptile grass, and I tied it to the topper to not have it be so steep (my turtle’s weight also brought it down, so I had to tight it up to hold it in place).
The Thrive platform needs something to cover the mesh on the bottom and the ramp because turtles can get their nails stuck in the holes and they can rip off. You can use cork tile or the like.
Our turtle had spots like this on her shell because her shell wasn't shedding properly. I read up on it and found that feeding this helps, and in my case it did! But it takes a long time. https://www.amazon.ca/Hikari-Usa-Inc-AHK06242-17-6-Ounce/dp/B001IN3JHY/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?crid=38JQR1LZ7LYIB&keywords=hikari+wheat+germ+koi+food&qid=1667747887&qu=eyJxc2MiOiIyLjUzIiwicXNhIjoiMi41NSIsInFzcCI6IjEuODUifQ%3D%3D&sprefix=hik...
This is not a replacement for regular turtle pellets. When I feed my turtle her pellets (3x per week) I give her about 80% her turtle food and 20% of the wheat germ food. My turtle's shell is currently about 6" long, and I give her 3 of these pellets. If you imagine their head (not including neck) is hollow, that's about as much pellets they need.
Here is a picture of the head: http://imgur.com/w9fPA
I read this article: http://www.ehow.com/how_2307027_identify-turtle-breed.html and it seemed to make me believe that its a box turtle. It doesnt have the bumps of the snapping turtle, or the curved beak. Although I am brand new at this, so maybe it will grow these things later?
Thanks
Literally just some no name brand thing from Amazon lol , I literally only got it cuz it has the suction cups to keep him from dragging it into his cave and annoying me with all the giant air bubbles escaping lol
Not even sure if this is the same vendor , but it’s the identical product;
My turtle LOVES when I stick this in his tank: https://www.amazon.com/Brush-Up-Suction-Upright-Bristle-Cleaning/dp/B076J7J168/ref=dp_fod_1?pd_rd_w=3n7TA&content-id=amzn1.sym.d4cdfb0a-d4b4-4f0b-8c51-55838af3328a&pf_rd_p=d4cdfb0a-d4b4-4f0b-8c51-55838af3328a&pf_rd_r=XV62DNKD4AJRK3VDC8VY&pd_rd_wg=6ZSHj&pd_rd_r=932bc206-caf7-4830-a93a-2403c9fffe82&pd_rd_i=B076J7J168&psc=1
He'll pop it loose after a few minutes and I have to reattach it, but he loves it. He'll scratch endlessly, pausing only to breathe, for as long as I keep reaching in to reattach it at the bottom.
It’s made of rubber for easy cleaning and it has suction cups to help keep it in place.
Glass surfing isnt a sign of boredom. It is a stress sign, or a food reaction to seeing people. Blackout film is a turtle's best friend in this case https://www.amazon.com/Velimax-Blackout-Stickers-Blocking-Darkening/dp/B073TVRQ5D
As far as enrichment, turtles dont need toys, give them more hides, more plants and a larger variety of food. Snails (of appropriate species) are a great choice. If they are a species that can have fruit, mashed up banana, with pellets in it, frozen are great. They float and get chased and bounced around.
That looks pretty good.
Tell me about the heater and filter, what is that little plastic cute in the back?
I dont know much about fish, other than some species are not great for turtles to eat, such as gold fish. Might want to verify those are good.
I'm a big fan of blackout film, https://www.amazon.com/Velimax-Blackout-Stickers-Blocking-Darkening/dp/B073TVRQ5D/ it will help reduce stress and looks pretty nice over all. I'd at the very least hit the sides with it, i found a small strip on the bottom from is also well liked.
I use a lamp stand where the bottom slips under the tank itself
Shouldnt be a bulb, should be two bulbs
one usb : https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B09TQYNB56/ something like this works
one for radiant heat, i prefer an incandescent light bulb on a dimmer or proportional thermostat.
https://www.amazon.com/Hikari-17-6-Ounce-Floating-Pellets-Medium/dp/B00025Z6HU/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?crid=2R5ZGHCCJMFLO&keywords=hikari+wheat+germ+koi+food&qid=1665629856&qu=eyJxc2MiOiIzLjQ0IiwicXNhIjoiMi45OCIsInFzcCI6IjIuOTgifQ%3D%3D&spr... feed this once a week replacing one normal pellet feeding. What in the world a stroke? No man they need D3 to process calcium and they can get it through uvb and diet
2) Yes, and he should. Feed a variety of things. Shrimp, crickets, mealworms, pellets, etc.
3) You don’t have to hibernate them. Bring it inside for the winter and use a UV light.
4) No, it is too small. Turtles need 10 gallons per inch of shell. A six inch turtle needs a very big tank. I recommend an aquarium like this one, https://www.amazon.com/SC-Aquariums-Starfire-Aquarium-Eurobraced/dp/B07NN4F7Q5/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=100+gallon+fish+tank&qid=1665315786&qu=eyJxc2MiOiI1LjcyIiwicXNhIjoiNS44NCIsInFzcCI6IjQuMTMifQ%3D%3D&sr=8-3
5) It depends, do you have a UV light? If not, as much sun as possible. Keep an eye on him if he’s outside.
7) Enrichment. Toys, activities, and decorations.
Easytest test strips https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B09MYP96GT
I've found they line up well with electronic testers and with the drop test kits, as long as you follow the directions to a T.
But in general, if I know a setup is rip roaring with a good filteration system, i dont check them that often, just when i first set them up to ensure everything is going well.
I've seen uvc damage on reptiles, i wouldn't call it immediately obvious to most people. Ocular damage is first to come.
I am not worried about shifting spectrum, I was worried about low priced LED "UVB" bulbs, and the fact that mislabeled bulbs have been coming in for the last 2 years (see all the "UVC" bulbs imported in for covid that ... were not). I was interested in moving to LED UVB bulbs now that the prices on UV producing diodes have come down substantially, but I wanted to verify them before I put my collection under a new bulb type.
"Homemade" as in I made it at home, or home made as in not professionally made? The answer differs depending on your meaning. Building custom niche equipment and software is what i do professionally.
If one is simply worried about if a light outputs uvc or not, i'd use these https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08CZ43RCP
This is the heater I'm using in my turtle aquarium. I like it because the heating elements are completely encased, and it's flat. Plus it has a really easy to use digital thermostat that goes from 59-95 degrees. https://www.amazon.com/hygger-Controller-Submersible-Saltwater-Freshwater/dp/B09F364QMS?ref_=ast_sto_dp&th=1
your turtle is failing to properly shed because of how it is being kept, so no, it hasnt been there 8 years without issue.
This is not excessive shedding, and not fungal and fairly easy to solve.
First, fix it's enclosure, less depth on the water, more land. I can take some pictures of some of mine that would be appropriate if you want. It is likely it isn't getting enough time out of the water on it's own accord (not the same as dry docking).
What is your lighting situation and how old are your UV bulbs?
Can you explain the diet in depth? I would add in some Hikair wheat germ pellet, for now twice a week as solve food those days, then in a month slow down to once a week https://www.amazon.com/Hikari-Usa-AHK06242-Wheat-17-6-Ounce/dp/B001IN3JHY
I actually have a habit of hunting down and buying rare turtles with "issues" like this. I buy them at stiff discounts because of it, then get them right over a few months.
/u/boxedinmyshell can you give me a sanity check on this species
- Where did the turtle come from?
- Give me more pics of the turtle, in particular the plasteron and back legs, I want a positive ID
- Get a new vet, an exotics specialist, for future needs
OK, a lot going on here, I'll give you some appropriate care recommendations once either I wake up enough to not have a fuzzy brain, or boxedinmyshell can double check the id. NA species are not my thing, I will say your entire setup is badly wrong, and those lamps are a fire hazard and ineffective for what you using them for.
For basking/heat purposes use these fixtures https://www.amazon.com/Flukers-Repta-Clamp-Lamp-Switch-Reptiles/dp/B0002DHODG/ along with cermaic heat emmitters and regular incandescent bulbs.
For UV, I use the reptisun T5 bulbs, however I'm experimenting with actual UVB LEDs that seem to do well. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B09TQXXLMY
I'll stop myself from going further until I have someone confirm the id
Assuming you've looked at this. I've used it on a 40 and a 55 gallon without issue. I did have to get some extenders to use on the 40, which are also in that link. No issues.
This is quite severe shell rot, likely from improper husbandry. What species is it? Please post detailed clear pictures of the enclosure, and your filtration system. Give me the exact temperature parameters you are using.
That vet did about all they could, that isn't just taking your money, that is treating rot. What cream did they give? Was it Silver sulfadiazine?
He probably wont dock because of stress, which is expected. He is sick.
Here is how I would treat it:
Supplies:
- An incubator set at the warmer side of appropriate water temp for that species
- A soft tooth brush
- 4% chorahexadine soap like https://www.amazon.com/Leader-Antimicrobial-Antiseptic-Chlorhexidine-Gluconate/dp/B09DDDK6FY
- the cream from your vet
Day 1: Clean turtle, leave in incubator for 24hr. Day 2: Clean turtle, leave in incubator for 4 hr Day 3-7: repeat day 2 Day 8 repost progress pictures tagging me, and ill advise further
Cleaning method:
- Gentle dry turtle with paper towel
- Gentle scrub with the chorahexadine soap, try to avoid the head, wait 15 minutes in the incubator and gentle rinse with lukewarm water, and gentle dry with paper towel
- Treat with cream
Now while your turtle is dry docked for the first day, you need to fix your setup. Clean it, clean your filter (im guessing its underpowered so replace it), setup the filter like this https://www.reddit.com/r/turtle/comments/x48id2/supercharge_your_filter_how_to_properly_setup/, make sure you get the bacteria going, and make sure you are following appropriate care instructions. I'd keep temps at mid to high range of the appropriate temps for that species.
We also need to address any stress we can. Cover all clear sides of the setup with paper or anythign to block views, ensure he has plenty of hiding places, and if you are not treating him, then you shouldnt be touching or bothering him for now.
What is your diet like for him?
This is quite severe shell rot, likely from improper husbandry. What species is it? Please post detailed clear pictures of the enclosure, and your filtration system. Give me the exact temperature parameters you are using.
That vet did about all they could, that isn't just taking your money, that is treating rot. What cream did they give? Was it Silver sulfadiazine?
He probably wont dock because of stress, which is expected. He is sick.
Here is how I would treat it:
Supplies:
- An incubator set at the warmer side of appropriate water temp for that species
- A soft tooth brush
- 4% chorahexadine soap like https://www.amazon.com/Leader-Antimicrobial-Antiseptic-Chlorhexidine-Gluconate/dp/B09DDDK6FY
- the cream from your vet
Day 1: Clean turtle, leave in incubator for 24hr. Day 2: Clean turtle, leave in incubator for 4 hr Day 3-7: repeat day 2 Day 8 repost progress pictures tagging me, and ill advise further
Cleaning method:
- Gentle dry turtle with paper towel
- Gentle scrub with the chorahexadine soap, try to avoid the head, wait 15 minutes in the incubator and gentle rinse with lukewarm water, and gentle dry with paper towel
- Treat with cream
Now while your turtle is dry docked for the first day, you need to fix your setup. Clean it, clean your filter (im guessing its underpowered so replace it), setup the filter like this https://www.reddit.com/r/turtle/comments/x48id2/supercharge_your_filter_how_to_properly_setup/, make sure you get the bacteria going, and make sure you are following appropriate care instructions. I'd keep temps at mid to high range of the appropriate temps for that species.
We also need to address any stress we can. Cover all clear sides of the setup with paper or anythign to block views, ensure he has plenty of hiding places, and if you are not treating him, then you shouldnt be touching or bothering him for now.
What is your diet like for him?
I currently use this bracket and this stand for my tanks.
I currently use this bracket and this stand for my tanks.
Deep Dome Light Fixture. Most pet stores sell these. You can get them in combo packs with bulbs included, or just the domes themselves. If you’re limited on space, these are great for centralized basking areas. You can use the double dome for a heat lamp and a compact fluorescent UVB bulb, or get a single dome just for heat.
UVB Tube Lamp Fixture. Most pet stores sell these as well. They provide UVB throughout the span of the tank and are an upgrade from CFB.
Zoomed makes a sinking musk turtle pellet too, I have it for my Razorback.
https://www.amazon.com/Zoo-Med-Natural-Sinking-Container/dp/B00IVQQEBY?th=1
Keep the tank clean and it should be fine. If you are paranoid, take it out, dab it with diluted betadine ONCE, let site 10min, rinse, then return to water.
RE the ramming glass issue, https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07BS6H73W/ is what you would solve it with.
Unless you see signs of pica (Eating things it shouldnt), the plastic plants are completely fine as long as it is getting proper nutrition and not under undue stress. Pica normally happens when a nutritional imbalance exists. A varied diet is essential for optimal health.
Consider blackout firm, https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07BS6H73W/, around back and sides, or even front too.
https://www.amazon.com/Garden-Hose-Filter-Chloramines-Pesticides/dp/B007I6MN72
These hose connectors remove chlorine and other toxins way easier and way more cost efficient. In some groups it is alsmo mentioned that these API (or other brand) water conditioners contain small amounts of toxic chemicals for turtle. However, I still need to see a source for that.
/u/Advanced_Baseball123
First, the question is answering the "why", what in the husbandry is improper. I don't know this species well enough to comment on the husbadry, so that is left up to you.
I would start with a full cleaning of the tank, adding back some bacteria (or utilizing a filter that is full of bacteria already). Then do a 25% water change every day hours while healing.
The following schedule will buy you time to get to a vet, or it may actually be all you need, however I suspect your vet would give you Baytril or Fortaz as well, but im no vet. Better pictures may change my opinion on how urgent vet care is. I can't tell how deep the damage from the current pictures.
After this schedule, you can continue but I would do it every other day.
Day 1: Dry turtle gently
Dilute some betadine until it looks like a decent tea. Using a medium to stiff toothbrush, scrub the infected areas with it, avoid head/eyes. This is the only day I would use betadine, it will kill anything, but it deters healing. This is the only day I would use a stiff toothbrush as well. Let sit for 5 minutes in a warm spot outside of the enclosure, then rinse well with appropriately warm water, then dry.
Place turtle in a dry and appropriately warm (for the species) place, I have a cheap incubator I use, to dry dock for 4 hours.
Return to newly cleaned tank.
Day 2 to day 7:
Dry turtle gently
Using a 4% clorahexadine scrub , like https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000VWURF0, and a SOFT toothbrush clean affected area, and surrounding areas. I would just clean the entire plasteron. Let sit for minimum of 10 -15 minutes, appropriately warm water, then dry.
Dry dock as in day 1 for 2 hours.
Thank you. What about something like this?
There are lots of brands with Hikari, but here's the one I got: https://www.amazon.com/HIKARI-330337-Saki-Turtle-Sticks-7-05/dp/B00GJW7NDU/ref=sr_1_3_mod_primary_new?crid=2BMCF0L2L789R&keywords=hikari+turtle+food&qid=1660590614&s=pet-supplies&sbo=RZvfv%2F%2FHxDF%2BO5021pAnSA%3D%3D&sprefix=hikari+turtle+food%2Cpets%2C110&sr=1-3
It was recommended by someone else on this forum and I'm glad they did, because it's been awesome for my turtle.
I got this dock for my female RES— as she was too large and heavy for her floating platform.
I have made a few adjustments to the pier to ensure optimal functioning and safety—putting large river rocks under the bottom plastic support to ensure she doesn’t get stuck. Also drilled holes in the dock and ramp and attached them with zip ties as they kept separating
It looks like a scrape that needs to be healed. Could be shell rot but try to see if it oozes and smells and is squishy. If squishy it’s shell rot and would need to be treated. If hard then it’s probably a cut. Turtles get scrapes from their baking site. You can actually place a little bit of providone iodine (betadine) on the spot and put him in another container to bask with a little water. Make sure half the container has sun/heat lamp and the other has an area for him to cool off. Keep enough water in there to keep half his shell over in water. And you can also put some antibacterial solution in the water as well. Just a little works as a small cap size works. This is what I use from time to time. API Turtle Fix Antibacterial Treatment
Since the tank is on the floor I recommend getting an submersible water pump for water changes. This is the one that I use. https://www.amazon.com/AQQA-265-920GPH-Aquarium-Submersible-Hydroponics/dp/B08T8RVZ1R/ref=mp_s_a_1_17?adgrpid=60085028390&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIgKj53fGk-QIVt8mUCR2PNwMMEAAYASAAEgLqBfD_BwE&hvadid=274682375700&hvdev=m&hvlocphy=9007321&am...
And now all you’ll need is siphon hose long enough to reach the sink.
This is a pretty large one and seems to have a lot of reviews
I would certainly hate for that turtle/tortoise to mysteriously vanish and end up with your cousin who specializes in caring for neglected reptiles. That would certainly be awful if it happened, and especially if there were no evidence to indicate anything other than the likelihood of the poor little guy having ~somehow~, ~mysteriously~ escaped over the summer while he was left completely alone, neglected and without food.
That would certainly be awful.
Side note: we like to transport our box turtle in a plastic carrier that’s been lined with wet paper towels, and has a generous layer of damp moss.
I sure do hope that little guy doesn’t mysteriously escape over the summer, but frankly, I think it’s probably likely, don’t you? An animal can’t be expected to somehow ✨magically✨ survive in captivity without fresh water or food. Surely it would try to get out and find food and water. Surely.
You’re a good person, OP.
This is the uvb I use. You can get them basically anywhere but they’re super expensive at pet stores right now bc it’s summer time and that’s when parents buy their kids pets to kill so they’ll leave them alone so I go online and get lights. Make sure to change there every 6 months bc they run out, the light still works but there will be no UVB coming out
Zoo Med ReptiSun 5.0 UVB Mini Compact Fluorescent (13 watts) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00A8RI8TK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_HWFSGB0GWA2JY2Q003WC?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Here’s the basking light I use,
Zoomed Repti Basking Spot Bulb [Value 2 Pack 100 WATT] - Includes Attached DBDPet Pro-Tip Guide https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07YBHTFZH/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_XGT5WG7KSWA6ZJ7RQEB4
Make sure the lights aren’t too close to your guy, I have mine like 8-12in away from them bc it can burn them. You can get lamps w dimmers if you have to keep the lights too close
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08JB6QYBN/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1
I use these with stock tanks, no problem. However it depends on how warm you want to get it.
If it is going outside, I suggest digging a hole and sinking it in. That will keep the temps more stable (warmer in winter). Black stock tanks do heat up quite well on their own. Dont try to test the temperature by measuring the black plastic, make sure you are measuring the water, at least a couple inch away from the black plastic.
Those are garbage, get one of these. Had this for years. Works wonders. Have a temp Guage opposite of the tank to see the temp readings
HITOP 50W 100W 300W PTC Submersible Adjustable Aquarium Heater, for Fish Tank/Turtle Tank up to 80 Gallon (300W) https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B07F2ZRRM5/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_5AKKZ2NFCTT8VV8EPKJ0?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/Rubbermaid-Commercial-FG424288BLA-Structural-Capacity/dp/B007IAFCC6/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?keywords=100+gallon+stock+tank&qid=1653143626&sr=8-2 so this is what I got for my turtle, however I live in the US and bought it in store for much cheaper, only $116. I’m wondering if you have any kind of hardware store or tractor supply store in the UK you may be able to find one at?
smole turtle. Get a really good starter setup. Something like this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075MKTGJM as a basis. You can find very nice used turtle kits online.
You can get by with used and a smaller tank for now. However; you need to identify your turtle to know how big they will get and how big a tank you will need in the future (It could be 100 gallons or more).
My thoughts though lie with how did you acquire this turtle?
It barely fits on my 75 But I really like the topper. Its a bit tight on the plastic rim of my tank, but it works. You can also ditch the piece that goes next to the topper, as its designed to cover a 40 gallon not a 75. The topper part pretty much fits perfectly on 1/2 of a 75, so I just use my old lids on the uncovered half. I also have a plexi glass piece under the topper on the side without a ramp to help curb evaporation.
https://i.imgur.com/mThZbbD.jpg
I ditched the ramp, as lots of posts say the ramp on that topper is not great as its really steep and a fixed position. Its also supposed to be really hard to remove once you snap it in place. I used a Zoo med floating turtle dock as the ramp, and I used zip ties to secure it to the topper (I drilled small holes to fit the zip ties through).
I'm using an Fluval Fx4 with this spray bar https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07Z32XLLV/
Previously I was using 2x Fluval 406 on the tank as filters.
Before you’re fully crucified here. This is a red eared slider. It will live, easily, 30years. To answer your lost asked question, directly, buy these pellets and feed it daily, for now.
Zoo Med Natural Aquatic Turtle Food, Hatchling Formula, 7-1/2-Ounce https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B000ENIRZS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_8CDZ9M3KASC6M4266TK0
https://www.amazon.com/Simple-Deluxe-Grillup-Socket-Included/dp/B07SWDCDXV
just look up heat lamp wire on amazon. that thing just uses a regular light bulb socket, so any lamp should work.
I like the wire ones as they have better air flow for lights that can get hot.
"Amazon.com: LUCKY HERP UVA UVB Reptile Light 5.0, Tropical UVB 100 Compact Fluorescent Lamp 15W : Pet Supplies" https://www.amazon.com/Reptile-Light-Tropical-Compact-Fluorescent/dp/B082DXX1WL/ref=mp_s_a_1_20_sspa?crid=2IUOD3FWCY766&keywords=uvb+cfl+bulb&qid=1652333522&sprefix=uvb+cfl+bulb,aps,290&sr=8-20-spons&psc=1 This is what I use.
Not entirely no. I've dried it out, removed everything for a while, began fresh and it just came back after a few weeks. So now im using an uv sterializer and so far its improving on the situation. https://www.amazon.es/gp/product/B00OKOA2G4/ref=ppx\_yo\_dt\_b\_asin\_title\_o01\_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I’m not sure if the tubing itself can cause weak flow, but the flow I get on these tubes feels nice and strong. Might just be how tight they are connected to the filter head too.
This is the tubing I use, from Amazon. It fits on the Fluval 307, at least:
Chihiros Aquarium Tubing 3M Super Clear for Aquatic Filter System Tubing 9/12/16mm https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07V86HLQQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_JTKV9ANJXHZAEXBKQ5M9?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
For the worm, yeah get checked. For the tannins get a redin filter like this
No problem. And you will want to add a liquid agent to get the “cycle” going and start denitrifying. I use as cheap of stuff as i can find at the time. But basically i take out the dry bio brick, then pour the bacteria in a bottle over it, then put all that in the sump. https://www.chewy.com/fritz-aquatics-fritz-zyme-7/dp/164577?utm_source=google-product&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=15783018857&utm_content=Fritz%20Aquatics&utm_term=&gbraid=0AAAAADmQ2V2i6KdU48750fuXPiz3OLmZy&gclid=CjwKCAjwx4...