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No, you can't use 5v solenoids. The ones I found on amazon are 1.1 amps, and I think you're limited to 500 mA on USB 1.1 / 2.0...900 mA on USB 3.0
However, what you could do if you're really set on using a 5A solenoid. Use something like this...
Then use relays to power them up when you hit the flipper button. The whole project would cost maybe 60-100$.
EDIT: WARNING!!! I sort of know electronics. I'm not an expert at all...if someone can confirm that info is correct, that'd be great. :)
I have installed SSF last weekend and the upgrade is well worth it- especially considering it is just installing standard components with minimal configuration required.
Amps: I have the exact same amps. So far, no complaints.
Speakers: I considered the same speakers, but in the end I picked different ones Dayton Audio DAEX58FP, the main reason being the ones you selected use an adhesive to stick to the surface, and I'm not sure if that will last.
My motherboard supports 7.1 out of the box (green plug for 2.1 audio, blue plug front speakers, grey plug (PC case headphone plug) for back speakers. So I cannot comment on the external USB card- but I'm guessing that will do.
The sub is used for the game (ROM) audio, the mechanical noises don't need that much punch in the low frequencies. The bumpers make a nice sound and that impact noise is enough for me.
It's not overkill and it's super useful. Arcooda installs them in all their machines by default. They are using something like this. It think that's way nicer than having a keyboard hanging off your machine or a Bluetooth controller floating around.
The knocker is personal preference really. It's definitely more realistic to have it. Loud speakers will work and have the benefit of being able to turn the volume down, but it's just not the same. It's not hard to add a knocker if you are doing a bunch of other responsive stuff like LED's and shaker, but I wouldn't just add one by itself. Some people love that loud knock, but I'm sure my wife and dog are tired of being scared by it.
When you dive into modding every possible thing on a cabinet, that's 99% of the hobby. It's not just the hardware either, you will need to tweak every VPX table to your set up. These days I simplified and enjoy playing more than tinkering. Like everything else, it just depends on your preference.
Now that I mentioned the extensive VPX set up, one other thing to plan on is how you are going to config all those files. Are you going to leave a normal keyboard and mouse dangling off of your machine? Maybe you want to have a hidden drawer that pulls out with a keyboard and mouse? Some people go with tiny blue tooth keyboards and trackballs inside the coin door. I went that route, but I do 90% of setting up over remote desktop. Will your machine even have network access? Something to think about, especially if you plan on playing FX3.
One last thing to plan, maybe you want to make your monitor a touchscreen? I wish I did this. My guests can't figure out how to navigate menus to save their lives.
Yes, that's the tutorial I followed. This is what I got for exciters, and this for the amp.
> > is there a board that would do 2 out's of HDMI rather than using the adapter route, or is the adapter route a stable way of getting two out's
It's very stable. Boards with 2 HDMI are harder to find and will cost you at least double the price, especially when you can find some boards for ~$60 right now: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B083GK2GXR?psc=1&th=1&linkCode=gs2&tag=pcp0f-20
Just get an adapter like this and you'll be fine.
Make sure the secondary monitor uses the DVI since this plug doesn't do audio.
Sorry about that, I have almost no experience with Reddit. How about I try again. Give this a try.... Link to Hinge
I purchased the hinges on Amazon. They are heavy duty and work really well. I disabled the lock on one of them so they are easier to fold. Hopefully this link will work.
Thanks! I had seen some of these videos before but not all of them.
Do you know of a certified 8K DP to HDMI cable? I thought this one would do the job (says 8K) but it doesn't: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0B5TLQYDG?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details
However the Maxonar brand you recommended does have DP 1.4 to HDMI 2.1, so I'll give that a shot: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B09MHB9LT1/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A1WU736W1PHVH9&psc=1
I do have a usb C port so maybe this ? https://www.amazon.com/uni-Thunderbolt-Compatible-MacBook-Surface/dp/B075V5JK36/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?keywords=usb+c+to+hdmi+cable&qid=1670538780&sr=8-2-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUFPTU1OQkVFUjI2U1gmZW5jcnlwdGVkSWQ9QTA3MDM3MzIzNjFETVBCR0NNRTBNJmVuY3J5cHRlZEFkSWQ9QTA3NzAxNTUzR1Q3RU9CUkM0NlVVJndpZGdldE5hbWU9c3BfYXRmJmFjdGlvbj1jbGlja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ== would I need to change anything in the laptop settings ?
HDMI Controller Driver Board for... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06W5DTGKC?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
You must use the included ribbon cable and not the stock cable. This requires separation of the plexiglass on the front. You’ll need 12v power supply as well. I’m running all the 12v from the PC power supply so everything turns on/off with the PC.
Separate them if you can, if not, have you tried a line filter like this?
These exciters
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071LH266V?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details
And I'll get a pic, but they're attached at the 4 corners of the cab. Near the flippers and near the back. Also, they're attached with the stick that comes on them, no screws, but they haven't had any issues since I put them in
I have a 40" Vizio 4K (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08BCBJP71/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1)
It's only 60Hz, but works fine. The backglass is an HP ZR30W 30" LCD. And then I run pindmd v3.
I'm running on an i5-11600K 3.90Ghz with the MSI Ventus GeForce GTX 1660ti and 16GB ram.
4K looks fine with most VPX performance settings on (there's a couple I left off).
Just a little wider than the standard mjrnet guide to fit a 4k 43". I am a dead head so thinking of painting something like this image on the sides https://www.amazon.com/Creatures-Dancing-Moonlight-Window-Sticker/dp/B00OYJHUNS
This is my setup. Just pop in the GPU. Works great:
Lenovo ThinkCentre M900 Tower... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B085TRZKK6?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
ASUS Dual NVIDIA GeForce GTX 1650... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08HSYLTW1?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
I have 2 bass shakers. One near where the top of the playfield would be and one near the bottom. Both in the bottom center of the cabinet. Just have them sitting in their cradle with no cutouts. They still sound great.
I added two of these bass shakers as additional subs to my two amps and otherwise mirrored your exact set-up:
I also purchased 4 of the Transducers instead of 2.
These refurbished optiplex are a hell of a deal. It a small form factor case though, so if you want to add a video card (a 1650 will run off the PCIE slots power plug and play) you have to remove the guts from the case.
https://www.amazon.com/Dell-OptiPlex-9020-SFF-i5-4570-Windows/dp/B07TB9G2R6
I'm very curious about 120hz, as well, but for now, I have this and it's awesome in portrait mode at 1080p/60hz (it would do 4k if my dinky video card could pull it off reliably, but it can't). Highly recommend it if you decide 60hz is enough:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07PX8JMJV?psc=1&ref=ppx\_yo2ov\_dt\_b\_product\_details
I am months/years away from being able to afford the time and/or money to build/buy a vpin cab, so I'm desktop-only for now. I play on a janky Lenovo laptop for convenience (at HD+ res, runs most games well) and on a desktop with a 1050ti that can do 60hz at 1080p just fine with maybe 1 or 2 exceptions. On the desktop I use this 27" monitor, which you can physically spin into desktop portrait mode:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07PX8JMJV?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details
It's a 4k monitor but the 1050ti can't do 4k with any reliability, unfortunately. But VPX looks awesome on this thing in 1080p portrait mode with 60hz sync. It's scratching the itch for me for now while I save up for something more real. But like you, I wish I had a pinstubby... it's frustrating that no one has stepped up to deliver a solution you can purchase. I'm pursuing a custom build with a woodworker I met on etsy but it's still a little daunting, trying to get it just right... and kinda worried I won't... so its PS4 controllers for me, for now.
I’ll snap some pics oneself mounted, based on may or cabinet it blends in with the playfield glass you can’t tell it’s there. Plus’s it created to use for drawing :)
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08HQTDVDB?ref_=cm_sw_r_cp_ud_dp_2BXTQHRARV6HBZYBYYYP
I've never used it as a DMD, but this is a great small monitor:
https://www.amazon.com/ELECROW-Raspberry-1920X1080p-Touchscreen-Capacitive/dp/B082HWF2HW/
The Unit is 6.5" high and 10.5" wide - the screen is slightly smaller than that.
Connect with HDMI, I use mine as a small arcade monitor.
To have a standalone cabinet, you will need:
A computer for the games to run on.
A screen, you already have that.
A box/mount to hold the monitor and buttons (usually wood)
Arcade buttons. You can use any buttons you like, 28mm buttons are the standard. Something like that will give you plenty: https://www.amazon.co.uk/EG-Starts-America-Standard-Buttons/dp/B01NA6I12K/
The encoder board. The one you've chosen will do, just know that it won't be possible to add a plunger on this board, you will need to use a button to launch the ball.
Wires. The ones that come with the encoder won't be long enough to reach both side of the cabinet if you're using a 42 inch TV. You'll need a way to either crimp the same connectors to longer wires, or cut these and solder/crimp longer wires in the middle.
A wireless keyboard/mouse. With the computer inside the cabinet, it's gonna be a pain to use anything wired. I HIGHLY recommend the Logitech K400. The batteries last for years in it and it's easy to handle.
Cooltoy bought a pre-made plunger from VirtuaPin if I remember correctly and I'm not sure what kind of sensor those use. So Cooltoy way's would be easier since he didn't have to print anything.
I'm using one of these bought from a local shop: https://www.amazon.com/Ximimark-Linear-Potentiometer-Module-Analog/dp/B07HNY7VWC
If you really want the easiest way to get the Arcade1Up plunger to work, you can just connect the black wire to ground, white wire to 3.3v on the Pinscape controller and the Yellow wire to the plunger pin on the controller and use "Potentiometer" still in Pinscape's config. But it comes with the sensitivity issue I mentionned.
Not a direct answer to your question, but I have found it helpful to have one of these for my vpin. Easy to velcro to the side of the cabinet, and I always have a dedicated keyboard on hand when I need to mess around with a table or whatever.
I have 9 buttons on mine
Get one these for ease of use later and any extra commands you may have to do.
(Upgraded)Rii 2.4GHz Mini Wireless Keyboard with Touchpad,QWERTY Keyboard,LED Backlit,Portable Keyboard Wireless for laptop/PC/Tablets/Windows/Mac/TV/Xbox/PS3/Raspberry Pi .(i8+ Black) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00Z81U3YY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_4YXBW5MR2JJS9J9NZY1F?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
The button scheme changed over time to a degree. As to say some tables that go way back in the day might have different set ups…Not sure exactly where and what changed, but Visual Pinball has been around almost 22 years now.
You could have alternate set ups using JoytoKey https://joytokey.net/en/download
this one:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07XZLGF9Q/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
The first one I tried (an LG Ultragear) had that anti--glare coating that is on so many gaming monitors now. That was horrible for viewing from the side so spectators got a really washed out view.
This one has no coating and the viewing angles are quite good. I'm honestly surprised at the performance of this VA panel. Didn't notice that detail till it was shipped, was convinced I would return it for another IPS, but it has done quite well.
I was really disappointed by the pixel response time on my first test, but it's because it has been out in the cold. After it's warmed up for 10 minutes it's very fast. Even replacing a 165hz ips panel, I have no complaints. I did go into the menu and turn on pixel overdrive before i was totally satisfied with the responsiveness, but feels great now that it's dialed in. Blacks and contrast are much better and it doesn't suffer from the IPS glow on a black screen.
Someday I will replace it with an OLED when a suitable model exists at 32" and doesn't cost $1000+ but for today this is a good fit.
Any thoughts on this one below? Just saw it for $300 at Costco. And is there a good tutorial video for making that upgrade? I don't know why, but that's one that's freaked me out for some reason.
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B08LLF9NS1/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_i_YA3M4WF1Q316N06JSQXS
No problem! Sorry, I’ve been busy with work and family so it took me a bit to get to this.
17” Monitor (I had this in storage) I used this for the back glass.
27” Monitor, I found one used on eBay for $80. This was the most expensive part of the build.
Legs, I bought a “Pirates of the Carribean” small pinball game for $35. I removed the legs and resold it for $25. Pretty good deal!
4’ x8’ piece of 1/2” plywood. This was about $40 and the second most expensive part. All cuts and measurements were based off my monitors and pictures I saw online. I don’t have any plans written out.
Old PC from 2013. I wiped it and upgraded the old Windows 7 to Windows 10. Pretty sure you can still do this for free but I ended up having to run Pinball X in compatibility mode with Windows 7 anyway.
I had buttons on hand but this would be similar to what I used minus the joystick.
I also bought this so I could quickly plug in a mouse and keyboard. I’ve already used it a couple of time and don’t regret it at all.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N66N1JK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I had a local glass company make the glass for me. They charged me $35 for a polished piece of glass that was cut to size.
If you decide to make it and run into any issues let me know. I can do my best to help. I’m no expert but have built a few arcade games in the past and know enough to get me into trouble.
Cheers!
Double check, but the switches you have should be using the 555 wedge style bulbs. Also, the bulbs themselves may already be 5V if you wanted to use them as-is. (connect a 5v supply, if they light, you're good. If they don't then they're likely 12V. Do not connect a 12V supply to an unknown bulb!)
For SSF, you'll need a 12V supply, and you'll either be running 2x 2.1 amps, or you might try a 4 channel car amplifier. (I used https://www.amazon.ca/R1004-400-Watt-Stable-Channel-Amplifier/dp/B004S50ZDA/ for my SSF to keep the footprint down. It's been working well) I wouldn't suggest trying to power it off a wall-wart though, the power draw might be a bit too much at times for it. I use a Meanwell LRS-350-12 for my audio / ssf.
I can't speak to the DMD power requirements, as I opted for a fullDMD/3rd monitor on my build. 12V 2A for the LCD panel, which also runs off the Meanwell above.
If you're doing 1080p your old machine is fine. Rebuild it with one of those frames ( ITX (17 x 17cm) ATX MATX PC Motherboard Case Frame, Open Bare Metal Air Water Cooling Fan Stand Chassic Test Bench Vertical Rack Computer Board Overclocking Heat Dissipation(Vertical Black) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09CMFF5D8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_5E6FA6P8PX1ZXX0Y99HF ). Put it in the cab and add fans for airflow.
Seems most people are replacing with an LG 32” 1440p 10 but HDR monitor.
LG 32GN650-B Ultragear Gaming Monitor 32” QHD (2560 x 1440) Display, 165Hz Refresh Rate, 1ms MBR, HDR 10, sRGB 95% Color Gamut, AMD FreeSync – Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08LLF9NS1/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_CSRG7J2B0340G912VD4B
I like the designs, I'm working on a non-traditional cabinet myself.
One suggestion, if you don't want to add a backbox for the backglass etc, what about adding a low profile DMD screen, either a real DMD or just a narrow LCD display at the top edge. Then you could maintain the sleek design but have a dedicated DMD screen instead of having it blocking part of the playfield.
I've been shopping for one myself and have found some that are fairly inexpensive
Thank you, I ended up getting a Meanwell for the reliability/fire certs and will hook it up prob Xmas day when I have access to the pinball machine. I like the led display on yours but I would only run it if in vicinity in case any hazard occurs lol
MEAN WELL LRS-350-24 350.4W 24V 14.6 Amp Single Output Switchable Power https://www.amazon.com/dp/B013ETVO12/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_YDPVA2C8FC62X62C4MCV?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I couldn't find much info myself on this topic. For my amps I went with this:
I've read some of the amps perform a bit better at 19-20v than 24v. This unit allows voltage adjustment with a built in knob.
Had the same problem with an LG OLED. I bought this and it does the trick!
GORITE USB - HDMI-CEC Adapter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005JU6LWM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_BZ7842SYY11Y0NQXP0JX?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
You can probably find it cheaper - I think I paid less than $20 for it at the time.
Started getting everything in the cabinet today. Going to get everything mounted in place in the cabinet before attempting to paint, not wired just in place.
Next step is the playfield mount. My hinge brackets and pivot nuts are coming Wednesday from Marco's so I can get that done.
I still have some parts to get ordered and on the way. One area I'm not certain on is power supplies and how much I need. Heres what I need to power in the cabinet:
Kl25z Teensy 3 audio amps (YIZAN ZK-MT21 2.1 Channel 5.0 Subwoofer Amplifier Board 50WX2+100W Power Audio Stereo Amplifier Board Bass AMP AUX https://www.amazon.com/dp/B091BVRQ12/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_EH017FFX2JNN06SH4REN?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1) 2 rgb led strips along playfield Led rgb matrix (8x56 maybe) 6 lighted 6.3v buttons(step down 12v) Some kind if led strip under cabinet
The following have their own power supplies: Playfield screen DMD Screen Back box screen Cabinet fans Computer
What am I forgetting that will need power?
I know I'll need 12v and 5v power supplies but how many watts should I be looking at for each?
Get a power supply (# of watts) to handle all of your LED strips If your led strip is 5V 3A you need a 15W power supply for just 1 LED strip. I would get large enough power to handle all of your LED strips like this one:https://amazon.com/PHEVOS-Universal-Switching-Raspberry-Computer/dp/B074YHN8D1?th=1
I already have a 360W 12V power supply, so I use 5v strep downs for my LED strips: https://amazon.com/gp/product/B00J3MHTYG/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1
Nothing really. SSF is totally worth it. If you have a full-sized cabinet you can go with larger transducers (https://amazon.com/Dayton-AudioHDN-8-Weatherproof-Exciter-Transducer/dp/B00ADR2BWA) & bass shakers. I had to turn my bass shakers down because they really make the cabinet shake.
I have a smaller cab so I went with the typical transducers (https://amazon.com/Dayton-Audio-DAEX58FP-8-Ohm-Exciter/dp/B00CWEJJ9)
I’ll be simpleton response guy. I use https://virtuapin.net/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=105
The plunger is…well…a real plunger…it just has a laser that measures the distance. The only bummer is your always dry firing…I saw one guy on here put a piece of wood, shaped almost like a cup coaster, with a small crevice the ball would return too…thus…the plunger would with the ball, spin around the circle and return to the home position.
Other than that, I just use these. We had a kind debate not long ago, in that I was open about using digital buttons, why most people use leaf style. I own 20 machines and can vouch these feel exactly the same, and personally I have zero lag…for the price it’s worth a try…if not you have back up. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07FZ4HQV6/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_X6MXG0RWRK25AJQBZ6DC?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I’m a bit of an oddball and prefer digital over anything else. For the price they are worth a try. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07FZ4HQV6/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_KZX9V8Y5RFZAKQAT2P12?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
1-I use 43, works fine 2- YES. Whatever anyone says pinball and gravity pulling the pull down it what makes it work. I get we are in a synthetic world, but it will feel much much better tilted. If anything just for the logic as far as seeing the whole screen better 3.All it is, is a regular plunger with laser on the other end measuring distance. 4-These are digital, I have extra boxes, just in case they ever stop making them…I like them that much. To date none have broke. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07FZ4HQV6/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_C2PV41100Z4BJEQ8C2W4?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1 5-Depends. Always go big 6-There’s no crying in baseball, and there is no sitting in pinball…with that I have this https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BLO7U5M/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_9Y60NP20H646NVME3E0H?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1 7-I used a ton of loose stickers because I’m a soul rider that is street as fuck
https://www.amazon.ca/Samsung-U32J590-32-Inch-LED-Lit-Monitor/dp/B07CS3JGPC
This screen. I chose it because I saw someone else use it so I knew it would fit.
Pros are that it's cheap and the response time is great. The bezel from the atgames fits on it too so you don't have to worry about any of that. Con is that the back is not perfectly flat so mounting it was a bit of a pain, it wanted to tilt unless it was well supported.
Using a Ryzen 5 and GTX 1650 to power it, so far most tables play well. Some have low frame rate and I turn down lighting effects etc and that helps.
No way at the moment to avoid pressing the VIBS button. I'd like to work that out without replacing the backglass screen.
I started to curse my choice halfway through the conversion because I kept running into small issues every step of the way, like mounting the tv properly, but overall I am happy with the upgrade. PC tables are much higher resolution, I can read all of the table cards perfectly now. Surround sound feedback is really big for immersion and the choice of tables is so much better on PC. Also pup packs and the front end are very attractive, it's a really cool showpiece for a games room.
I have 2 of these:
Delaman Power Amplifier, Lightweight Aluminum Casing Digital Amplifier Mini HiFi 2.1 Stereo Bass Auto Car Home Audio Power Amplifier (Silver) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0851LVGWS/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_NZ165MJH8ZZXGV6GNHTC?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
One to drive the two in front and one to drive the two in the back. No complaints.
>x88 pro 10
Using an app like Rotation Control Pro alone won't fix your problem? Unfortunately my table is setup on Windows, so I'm sorry I can't be of more help.
12.6 inch 1920x515 AIDA64 CPU Temperature Monitor IPS LCD Screen for Cars Monitor GPU Computer Case Sub Display Raspberry Pi MIPI DIY Kits https://www.amazon.com/dp/B096FPZTZP/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_AQNRYZ5TXNG9E9SK56J4?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Fits perfectly and is USB powered. Love it.
i think they're flat cables running underneath.
Something like this (make sure the angle is correct before ordering)
https://www.amazon.com/Kework-Degree-Downward-Standard-Interface/dp/B07FHXF3LS
Late to the party, but I thought I had flipper lag on my PC myself. It turned out that I was using a TV for my screen and not an actual monitor. Once I disabled the 50 different video processing filters that were on by default, things felt a whole lot snappier.
oooh I am not sure, it's a dual monitor table or wall attached swingarm mount. I inherited it from an old housemate/friend who moved out of the country and it's been laying around for years un-used. I detached one of the mount arms so I could use it as a single. It's probably this one or one very similar- https://www.amazon.com/VIVO-Monitor-Adjustable-Screens-STAND-V002/dp/B009S750LA
Sorry for late reply I have not been on reddit much.
I've been using this and it's worked great if all you need is basic controls. I hooked up the specialty buttons and leaf switches to it with no issues other than the brightness of the lights as it only puts out 5V. Don't need to solder anything or provide external power. If you plan on adding any toys then I'd go with the Kl.
No, running 4 screens off my 2070 Super. The apron screen is one screen which I pipe the two images via Popper.
I found this 19" screen from China which I was able to fit as the apron.
A lot of good info here from others. I started with this encoder and buttons and the box they came in and am actually still using the encoder with better buttons. This requires 0 skills to put together and then you can use joy2key to map the buttons. The iPac is awesome but if you aren't going to add more inputs to it then this should be plenty.... and you can give the 2nd one to your friend :) https://www.amazon.com/Hikig-Encoders-Joysticks-Buttons-Raspberry/dp/B07JF34XPB/ref=sr_1_3?dchild=1&keywords=Hikig&qid=1620157905&sr=8-3
- I had a 40" 4k 60hz vizio I got for ~250 US dollars that worked great, but I was unhappy with the refresh rate/viewing angle/colors (running a gtx1070), even though it said 120, it was marketing BS. I LOVED the jump from HD to 4k, but I ended up opting for a digital signage monitor for my playfield, even though it's 1080, the refresh rate/blacks/viewing angle made it worth the downgrade in resolution. You're mostly going to find tv's at 40" and the jump to a nice 4k 120hz 43" monitor is pretty pricey, I've seen ASUS on Amazon for 1k to 1200k US. So, the Vizio is definitely passable, some of the more demanding tables had a tiny bit of stutter, but worked well for the majority. Another thing to consider is your cab, if you're buidling your own or buying. Standard cabs fit 40", widebody fit 43". Since you built your own, assume you know this, but just a reminder. For DMD/Topper/Backglass, I went super cheap. You don't need anything crazy there IMO.
- If you're going 32" playfield I'd guess a 19/20" backglass would work? I've also seen folks running this as a DMD, looks cool: amazon.com/AOC-e1659Fwu-1366x768-Brightness-3-0-Powered/dp/B00CMKOVMO/ref=sr_1_5?dchild=1&keywords=usb+3+external+monitor&qid=1620157520&sr=8-5 you can get a refurb for 75 US.
- Sorry can't help there.
Yeah. . . this would be easier if I coudl go browse at Walmart, hobby stores, etc. I'm surfing Ebay and amazon trying to find a box that approximates what I'm looking for. I think I better avoid cardboard...I'd damage it too easily.
So, rather than tear apart an Xbox controller, I can use one of these?
Currently using a Kinter K2020A+ for each set of exciters (front and back). https://www.amazon.com/dp/B077Z7DBRT/
I initially tried a different Kinter model that sold for about $25, but it distorted when the volume reached a certain point. Even with my smaller original 25W exciters. A better amp really helped.
Not OP, but I personally tried some smaller 25W exciters first, and they were pretty cool. But when I upgraded to these 40W ones, though, it made a pretty noticable difference, in a good way. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071LH266V/
maybe this would get the job done? https://www.amazon.com/SkyTech-Blaze-Gaming-Computer-Desktop/dp/B085F2BFWR/ref=sr_1_12?dchild=1&keywords=gtx%2B1660&qid=1614110526&s=electronics&sr=1-12&th=1 anxious to see other people's thoughts...
Leaving the glass off would make it relatively easy to use an infrared touchscreen frame, for what it’s worth. Something like https://www.amazon.com/infrared-without-interface-free-drive-monitor/dp/B078X8R9Z3
I have one of these in my cabinet
https://www.amazon.com/Microsoft-Sidewinder-Freestyle-Game-A17-00001/dp/B00004Z729
and it works perfectly. Can be found cheap on ebay and super easy to setup.
I just took the PCB out of the case and mounted in the bottom of my cabinet.
Here you go, this is what I use in my cabs, works great.
2 Ports Dual USB 3.0 Male to USB 3.0 Female AUX Flush Mount Car Mount Extension Cable for Car Truck Boat Motorcycle Dashboard Panel -(3 Feet) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MY1WDIU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_K17XDN7TN01RSQTR5695?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Maybe someone can say yay/nay on these. But these are the amps that I went with for my Exciters. They seem to work well so far for my exciters.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07QHZTX1Y/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Good start. Looks like a widebody. If it is, consider a 32” 1080p for the back glass. I installed this one in mind, and it fits without having to router the inside of the back box.
ViewSonic VX3276-MHD 32 Inch 1080p Frameless Widescreen IPS Monitor with Screen Split Capability HDMI and DisplayPort https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0787WGCXT/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glc_fabc_lD1-FbVG8CTGY?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
This time last year I was doing the same thing. For the dmd I went with an 13in laptop replacement monitor that came with the controller board.
That screen size went well with my 32in cab.
Thanks for the input everyone!
I'm planning on using this screen and controller:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XXFJDCH/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Hope to start the build on the backbox this weekend, I'll post pics as I move through the process.
Thanks again!
This is the one I used https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XXFJDCH/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Comes with the controller board. I opted for this because the 1st time I bought a panel and board separately there were compatibility issues despite the claims on the item page.
Following your build/guide/info as I am just starting mine. I picked up the displays (playfield and backglass) yesterday and planning on ordering the RecRoomMasters 40" kit later this month.
Quick question on the speakers for the backglass. You linked to 4" speakers but it is my understanding that the RRM has 5 1/4" cutouts...just double-checking before I order the speakers.
And a question on the amplifier...how does it sound? I was planning on going with this one: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B077Z7DBRT/ref=ox_sc_act_title_5?smid=A25JTAYG4VV6FQ&psc=1
I'm somewhat of an audio nut/snob so I am wanting this cab to sound great (it's actually going into my basement/Home Theater room) so I'm just a little concerned with a $10 amp. I think it would be fine for the cabinet sounds/etc...but I'm thinking I will need something better for the backglass speakers (and subwoofer, if I decide to add that).
Thanks!
I went with this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B088QVNQ8C/ref=dp_prsubs_1
When I purchased, it was $79. Obviously more expensive than the laptop screen that someone else linked, but it's also way better of an option in that you don't have to piece together power and display adapter wiring (if you look at the requiring additional hardware, that laptop screen comes out to around $70). The screen I linked is also an IPS screen, opposed to the TN laptop screen which will have absolutely terrible viewing angles. The screen I linked is also VESA compatible so you can mount it easier.
I much prefer something like this, primarily for having an actual door to the front of the cab. I place the amps for SSF behind the door, as well as easy access to my plunger board and various connectors. Having an access door at the front of the cab is so damn handy, I couldn't imagine a build without something similar.
I bought this
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01K0GNUOG/
and I had a 1060 card I was going to put in it but there was something wrong with it and I pulled it out, so I was running with just the built in video card to get started installing things.