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You can get the Kindle version of Gaslands: Refueled for $12 https://www.amazon.com/Gaslands-Refuelled-Post-Apocalyptic-Vehicular-Mayhem/dp/1472838831/ref=sr_1_3?dchild=1&keywords=gaslands&qid=1596492228&sr=8-3
Yeah, it's great for kids too. However, too many cars on the track can cause it to bog down. If we're talking multiple kids then just stick to 1 car each and keep the cars simple. For a kid's first game I usually just give each car a machine gun and nothing else. You can always add more rules in, but if you do too much at once they may lose interest.
There are various campaign rules (home-brew and whatever) for Gaslands too if you want to dip into that.
Recently the Gaslands author also came out with alternate rules called Mars Racing Federation which is no weapons just pure racing and I think is supposed to be a significantly quicker game. You can get it here: https://gaslands.com/blaster/
Kids will also love making their own cars. Start collecting a bunch of junk bits - pieces from a busted pen, wire, bits of metal screen, nails, those plastic closer things from a loaf of bread, the insides of broken electronics, etc... Then they can have tons of fun cutting up bits and gluing them to the cars to kit them out and make them look awesome.
I've been using these for a few years: Aven 18425 Curved Utility General... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006RBAZ74?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
They're metal so you can bend them back slightly if you need to for that perfect chit fit.
Outremer is more of a skirmish than Lion Rampant.
Decent set and cheap. Easy to tweak to depict other Medieval settings.
For individually basing some 15mm Plastic Soldier Company minis I went with these 1/2" steel discs so I could transport them on magnetic trays. If you don't need them magnetic you could just use any variety of 1/2" plastic chits/counters/bingo or mini poker chips. They're dirt cheap.
I've been having fun playing a newer game, County Road Z. It's a solo or co-op game. The designer made the decision to keep the game focused on humans vs. zombies, not humans vs. humans. The game has a strategic layer for running campaigns as well as the tactical layer for fighting battles.
Another solo game that supports human vs. human conflict as well as human vs. zombie is All Things Zombie. There have been several editions, the one I have is Final Fade Out.
No worries at all. That kit is quite cheap on Amazon at the moment:
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Italeri-6184S-6184S-1-building-unpainted/dp/B07KFBSDGS/
I only point it out because Amazon is the last place I would check for models.
Biostrip is the absolute best paint stripper i've ever used: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Biostrip-Stripper-remover-solution-effortlessly/dp/B00B4WK17K/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=biostrip&qid=1649186057&sprefix=biostrip%2Caps%2C263&sr=8-2
I've stripped metal, plastic and resin models with it and never had any problems it is also very quick, you just need to dip the model in it and either leave it submerged or remove the model and put it in a plastic bag (still covered in the goo, to stop it from drying out) and within about an hour it'll be ready to strip.
Just gently work around the model with an old toothbrush initially and 99% of the paint will come off straight away, then do the same again in some warm water just to clean it up and you are good to go.
I own the rules for a game called Black Ops. Never played it, but the rules seem easy enough and I’ve watched a few battle reports.
Black Ops: Tactical Espionage Wargaming (Osprey Wargames) https://www.amazon.com/dp/1472807812/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_ZNDH10X063BDBPCTXGYA
I actually have a ton of these guys that I picked up to run a few one off games of Bolt Action with using BMC Tanks and Scatter with my group. This system looks cool, seems to be inspired by miniature agnostic skirmish games like Stargrave or Black Ops: Tactical Espionage Wargaming by Osprey Games.
I'll give this a go sometime and see how it runs.
Check out the Open Combat system. Historical and/or fantasy combat using any miniatures you have. No magic at all unless you want there to be because you stat all of the miniatures yourself.
I just might pick up a second copy of all of the minis for this game. I was already thinging on doing exactly that as I want to repaint all of the survivors.. I use those miniatures for a variety of games including Last Days Zombie Apocalypse.
You can find all of the stuff for the Walking Dead on Amazon. for both Call To Arms and All Out War.
>That said, I'm hoping to find a war game that I can get, build some figures that could be "drafted", and keep like a pseudo board game.
Right off the top of my head, I would suggest Godtear, you can get a copy off Amazon for less than $35 for the base game. Its a kind of a MOBA inspired tactical board game. Warhammer Quest Blackstone Fortress also comes to mind.
For skirmish type games, I would suggest checking out miniature agnostic ones published by Osprey Games: Realities Edge, Last Days Zombie Apocalypse, Scrappers, Stargrave/Frostgrave, Rangers of Shadowdeep, etc.
If you are looking for a more traditional war game with a large local community player base and support, Warhammer 40K, Warhammer Fantasy, and KIllteam are king. Mantic Games Bolt Action and Konflict '47 are cheaper and also have a large player base.
Hey mate. The Kickstarter for the company is now live! Please support a new company and get rewarded while you're at it!
The link to the Kickstarter: https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/494651479/snake-eyes-supplies-laser-cut-wargaming-supplies-f
Hey mate. The Kickstarter for the company is now live! Please support a new company and get rewarded while you're at it!
The link to the Kickstarter: https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/494651479/snake-eyes-supplies-laser-cut-wargaming-supplies-f
Hey mate. The Kickstarter for the company is now live! Please support a new company and get rewarded while you're at it!
The link to the Kickstarter: https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/494651479/snake-eyes-supplies-laser-cut-wargaming-supplies-f
Hey mate. The Kickstarter for the company is now live! Please support a new company and get rewarded while you're at it!
The link to the Kickstarter: https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/494651479/snake-eyes-supplies-laser-cut-wargaming-supplies-f
Hey mate. The Kickstarter for the company is now live! Please support a new company and get rewarded while you're at it!
The link to the Kickstarter: https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/494651479/snake-eyes-supplies-laser-cut-wargaming-supplies-f
Hey mate. The Kickstarter for the company is now live! Please support a new company and get rewarded while you're at it!
The link to the Kickstarter: https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/494651479/snake-eyes-supplies-laser-cut-wargaming-supplies-f
I use two of these 30"x70" folding tables. They fold in two so can be stored as a 30"x35" size. When I put two of these together for gaming, I have a 5'x6' table which is great for 3x3', 4x4', and 4x6' battlemat sizes, still leaving some space on the edges for books, tokens, etc.
https://www.amazon.com/CozyBox-Folding-Outdoor-Portable-Plastic/dp/B0945L34ZS/
Yes, but I guess it depends on the ferric content of the washers. I didn't know some kinds of stainless steel are non-magnetic or only weakly magnetic, so the earliest washers I bought turned out to be useless for basing this way. I've been happy with these. Also, all of my 1/72 stuff is plastic, so the minis themselves weigh basically nothing compared to the washer.
It kind of depends on what you want out of an airbrush. For basecoats it would be fine, but generally speaking siphon (bottom fed) brushes and compressed air canisters are not very reliable. This is really a spray gun- no air control.
You really want a proper compressor and a gravity fed dual action airbrush.
I’d put the £18 towards a proper beginner setup because this won’t do what you’d want in the long run.
You should expect to pay about £110-150 for a good beginner set up. This is the one I generally recommend.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B01984G4SU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_T6FC3RF1D8C7B4A1D61R
https://smile.amazon.co.uk/Hayes-Paper-Co-WaterSlide-Transparent/dp/B077TMFVL9/ ? 6mm is tiny. You'd need a good hires inkjet printer and then spray with clear coat or something to waterproof before using. Not sure if it'd work...
Actually, it is being released through Osprey according to Amazon, so~
How about One Hour Wargames by Neil Thomas?
These are pretty simple rules with each side only needing six units to make an army and covers Ancients up to WW2 with various rules for each era. There's also 30 different scenarios, each played on a 3'x3' table.
You can then use the Wargame: XXX series by Peter Dennis which are books bursting with full color paper standees. They've got Romans, Dark Ages, English Civil War, American War of Independence, Napoleonics, American Civil War, and more!
For OHW and a single Wargame: XXX book might be $40 total from Amazon, plus any more costs from copying the paper prints from the books, but that's far less than even a DBA army.
I think a Chinese company makes these. I found this on Amazon, though the cost went up since the last time I purchased it (there might be a cheaper place to buy it)
Use superglue for metal miniatures
But don't use locktite or any of the readily available superglues as they are very expensive and you don't get very much for your money, locktite in particular costs a fortune and always runs out.
Get everbuild instead: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Everbuild-CYN50-Superglue-Industrial-General/dp/B0012R9SJO/ref=sr_1_8?dchild=1&keywords=super+glue&qid=1595008789&sr=8-8
Its only £3.20 and it'll last you months or longer
I suppose they are in any of the WRG books like DBA or DBM.
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Looks like you can get a set of DBA on Amazon.
​
https://www.amazon.com/Bellis-Antiquitatis-Version-3-0/dp/024469768X
Thanks! Haha no, they're even more budget that that. It's a lot of what I think are risk figures that I found on Amazon. They happen to be a good size (roughly 28mm), and were cheap enough for a whole army's worth.
Here's the link if you're interested: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0754Q6SWV/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_tfqDEbMD3ZG1F
Do you know if there's a big difference between the TFA core set and the regular core set?
A kindred spirit! Have I got a book for you:
Donald Featherstone's Solo Wargaming
I, myself, am a WW2 guy. I like "I Ain't Been Shot Mum" which uses a card deck to randomly activate units, a mechanism that works wonderfully for solo gamers. I also rely heavily on blinds - blank hexes that represent platoons. Each blind is numbered, and at the start of each game I draw up a chart and randomly assign each blind to one platoon. Then I let the cards do the talking. Blinds can move as an infantry unit, but cannot shoot or be shot at. If they shoot, they are spotted, the blind marker is replaced with the unit, and the blind card is replaced in the deck with the corresponding platoon card. The "other guy" can spend an action point trying to "spot" a blind, and if they succeed, the blind is spotted. With enough platoons, and with the random mapping of blinds to platoons, you can sort of forget who's doing what. It also helps if you're playing a scenario where you'd have a pretty good idea of what the "other guy" would be doing even if you don't know where he is. Defending a bridgehead, for example, or holed up in a village.
An even more random scenario is that you play a force making an incursion into known enemy territory. On every turn, you roll a combination of dice, with a table seasoned to your tastes, and if you roll the right number, A Wild Enemy Appears! Modifiers might be things like, +1 for every six inches closer to a known enemy objective you get, or doubles mean that two enemy units appear.
It's always great to see another solo wargamer... the loneliest of the lonely nerds, my wife calls me.
I need to double-check that it wasn't his campaigns book that described play-by-mail.