Yup, over watering. Also, the plant tends to drop those first leaves pretty early. Learn the relationship between wetness of the soil and the weight of the pot itself. Perhaps get one of these to stick in the soil and don't water until its below 5.
I wouls move it closer to the light. I'll also leave my favorite general copy pasta below. Also, you could top it in 2 weeks.
Honestly, if I am using good quality soil (a mix of good soil from the nursery with compost in a 1-4 ratio), I usually let the plant live off the soil until its a month or so old. After that you can get a nitrogen based fertilizer, look at the fox farm line maybe or Roots Organic, look for kinds that say Grow. Use at 1/4 strength or 1/2 strength at first, once a week or a little less. Also get some CalMag and use that at similar strength once every couple weeks.
Once flowering is near, ease off any growing nutes and start with flowering nutes, light at first, heavier once flowering is fully engaged. Sometimes i make a simple syrup and add a shot glass per gallon, the plants love it.
Make sure you have a fan with some airflow, for at least part of the day. Wind strengthens the plant.
Watch your ph of the water you use, and later on the feeding solutions you create. The older the plant, the more important the ph. 6.5 is good for growth stage, then 6.2-5.8 is good for flowering. Use lemon juice in very very small portions to lower the ph of your water if needed.
you need to maintain a humidity below 50% with an indirect source of air movement.
Chop your plants and remove all major leaves. You can even do a full trim on the buds right away if you want, but leave them on their stems/branches, because you'll want to hang them. I dont know what your space is like, whether you can use a spare bedroom, garage, shed, or whatever, as long as you can keep the space above 50% humidity and at a temperature between 60-70 degrees is usually best. Hang them for 3-6 days, depending on bud size and density, then you can clip them off onto screens for another 3-6 days. Start by keeping the buds separate on the screens, and by day 3-6 they should be in dense piles, rotated once or twice a day. After that you can put them in glass mason jars, no more than half full. Close the jar for the first 6 hours, then open and see how the buds feel. Its possible they will feel a little moist or every so slightly spongy. Then just leave the jar open on its side, once again with light air circulation on or near the jars, and leave them open for 24 hours, rotating once in a while. Then 18 hours, then 12, then 6, etc. You'll know its working by the smell too. A very grassy smell in the jar means they need to come back out onto the racks, but a slightly green smell is okay at first, but they should develop a very dank bud smell specific to their strain over the next week.
Here is an example of a good drying rack.
Top it to get bushy, just cut the top off. Also get a water meter so you water it right. Water when the meter says 3-5.
Mircale grow is not super great for weed, it tends to burn, be too strong, expecially in hydro. Whats your ppm? I would consider a switch to Fox Farm or General Hydroponics. Ph is crazy important, an improper ph will mean the plant cannot take in the proper nutrients causing toxicity or deficiency. Get a tester I link below, and aim for a ph around 6.2-6.0, balancing with single drops of lemon juice until its just right.
Yup! Watering is the hardest part when starting out. It's kind of a guessing game if you're not familiar with tricks like picking up the pot to judge the weight or plant familiarity.
While I water, I fill these up about halfway with water and let my plant absorb the water through the bottom. I use dry amendments so I don't need to water until run off, but this allows the bottom soil to absorb some water.
Personally, OP is better to be under-watering than over-watering. Root rot is much much worse than a stunt.
Too early to tell, and I'm willing to bet you are overwatering it. Buy one of these (just provided an amazon link for convenience, most local nurseries or garden stores have them), stick it into the soil and don't water until you're below 5. I aim or 3-5.
Stick it in dirt, root side down. Cover it with about a cm of soil, it needs very little watering in the first few weeks, soak the grow medium once, then just a few drops at the base of the plant every few days.
Get one of these. Its common for the bottom of the pots to get water logged. Water only when its below 5, pushed all the way into the soil.
Probably not. With seedlings, water the whole pot thoroughly once, then just a few drops or tbsp at the plants base every 2 or 3 days. The roots will expand into the saturated soil over weeks, so it needs very little active watering during this time. Get a moisture meter (linked below) and measure the soil periodically to check the progress.
Omg that would be fucking gold. I've been watching this plant grow up, it would be nice to have a taste 🤣.
But yeah, check the ph of the water your putting in, make sure its around 6.0 or even 5.8. A couple yellow leaves are no big deal, but a bunch are more of an issue.
Oh, I just remembered, you just have a ph meter for the soil yeah, not a digital ph reader meant to measure liquid? If so, those can be a bit more tricky for telling whats going on, I have never found them to be too terribly helpful when actually facing ph issues.
Here is the style of meter I recommend for measuring what you're putting in. I know you're on a budget for this grow, but I had to throw this out there. It could be useful. This meter and a little lemon juice could have you 100% back on track.
Get one of these and stick it in the soil before watering. Only water if its below 5. Plants that size really only need watering every few days usually, and can absolutely look like that if they are water logged or worse, have root rot.
You could always get something like this to be sure of your watering. Stick it in all the way and get a real good sense of the moisture level where the roots are.
I have never uaed a grow and its been a minute since I've grown i doors, but I can share a common copypasta about basic technique
I will link you to a ph meter. Yes go into flower, switch to 12 12, your plants are big enough. You need a ph of 6.2-5.8 at this stage. I will link you to a ph meter that you need to use on all liquid you feed your plants. Lower it with single drops of lemon juice and aim for the same number every time.
If you.never put holes in the bottom of the cup, its hard to judge, because I would normally say transplant when you have roots coming out the bottom. It might be close to ready though. You could get it nice and wet and see if it comes out in one big piece.
I'm going to put a link to a basic water ph tester below. Test your water every time, and lower it to the proper ph with lemon juice before watering. You will need very little lemon juice, depending on the ph you start with, I'm talking drops from an eye dropper. Right now you could maintain a ph of 6.5ish. But by the time you get to flowering, maintaining a ph of 6.3-5.8 would be best. If you do this with your water every time, your soil ph should be okay. However, there are soil mixes made specifically for bluberries (that need very acidic soil), you could mix some of it in with your soil/compost/worm casting blend when you transplant.
Weeds and potentially over watering. Once you soak the soil once, you only need to water a few drops at the base of the plant once every few days, just let the roots expand out into the wet soil.
Get one of these, start watering heavier when the meter shows 3-5.
Might be over watering. Get one of these to measure the soil with. And only water when it reaches 3-5
The leaf spots are burn marks from getting the leaf wet under sunlight. Water drops act as a magnifying glass and burn your leaf.
Personally, if you're growing outside, I would have gone with much larger pota, 10l at least.
6-7 is a huge range for ph. 6 will be great going into flowering. 7 will see your plants slowly yellow over time, become stunted, and produce 1/4 the bud they were meant to. This ph measuring tool is cheap considering what it could help you do. Measure your water every time, and correct it woth lemon juice (to lower it) to between 6.3-6.0, and go for the exact same number every time.
Ph of the water is very important, I do recommend using one of these to measure the ph of your water going in, and correcting it with lemon juice to reach between 6-6.5, keeping it as exact as possible each time...
Oops I was not clear, how old is the plant, not the soil, sorry. The chlorine in normal tap water can kill any beneficial bacteria or microorganisms in the soil, depending on how strong the chlorine is where you're from. Something to think about. Usually around now is when it's time for a dose of Calmag, something thats made by many companies.
I still think some of the spotting looks like mite damage, they steal the energy away from the plant, making it hard for the plant to grow and thrive, but it really is hard to tell in a video, as video doesn't have as many pixels.
I'll keep brainstorming, and see if I can't come up with any other ideas.
PH is often the cause of many problems. During flowering, if the ph of your nutrient solution isn't in the 6.3-5.8 range, then it's likely your plant cannot take in the nutrients it needs, and it could be eating itself alive, making some of the leaves look like they do. There are also some leaves that seem to be curled downward. This can be a sign of overwatering or a russet mite infestation or another symptom of a ph issue, tough to tell.
Get a ph tester like the one I linked below, and test your plain water and any nutrient solution you may be using when mixed and ready to put in the dirt. If it is too high, add drops of lemon juice until it is the right ph.
Get a moisture meter, I'll provide a link below for example, you can find them at most garden stores. Stick that sucker in the soil and water when the meter is below 5. I like to alternate shallow and deep waterings. It's good to occasionally water enough that it comes out the bottom of your plant, but not every time. Don't be afraid to stick the meter in the bottom of the pot to get an accurate reading of soil wetness down there as well.
Hang these from the roof of your tent and stick them to the inside of your pots in strips. I live by a lake and have a lot of gnats (I think) and these things clear them out.
I change the pads once I see a fair bit building up.
Get something like this... https://www.amazon.com/Beslands-Moisture-Hygrometer-Battery-Outdoor/dp/B08YYBMKQ7/ref=sr_1_3_sspa?dchild=1&keywords=gardening+moisture+meter&qid=1621681017&sr=8-3-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUFJOEVGN0IwQ1pHS0gmZW5jcnlwdGVkSWQ9QTA1NjMyOTkzU0NUUDZKTlhXVllNJmVuY3J5cHRlZEFkSWQ9QTAxMjM0ODUyQjBOMk9JTUw5RUo4JndpZGdldE5hbWU9c3BfYXRmJmFjdGlvbj1jbGlja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ==
Stick that sucker into the dirt. I like to water when the meter says 3-5, other folks like to water when it's at 5-6. I do 3-5 because that promotes root growth, if you over water, roots wont expand out as quickly in search of new sources of water. Now, if the top of the soil is bone dry but the meter still reads 6-7 deep down, it's okay to do a super light watering for the top soil only, to keep the roots near the surface healthy. I often get in the habit of alternating heavy deep waterings and light shallow ones when the roots arent fully developed yet. You can also stick that meter into one of the holes in the bottom of the pot to get an idea of the density of the root ball and how fast its sucking up water at the bottom.
Another tip, learn the correlation between overall pot dryness and the weight of the pot itself. Over use of that moisture meter can break the roots (or at least I feel like it does), and so I like to learn how wet the soil is by the weight of the pot itself.
These are what I’m talking about. You can hook three together to get 4 bulbs in one fixture. As long as you don’t try and use high energy demand bulbs (which you are not) then there shouldn’t be any hazards doing this. I’ve been using setups like this for growing all sorts of things in small spaces for many years.
DiCUNO 2 in 1 E26 Socket Splitter Adapter, 2 E26 Standard Medium Base Bulbs in 1 Socket Y-shape Lamp Holder Converter, Maximum 200W and 165℃ Heat Resistant Light Bulb Splitter 2Pcs https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07GZ9F4XG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_1DBSQQRT9CV3YZD8NK7Y
No problem. Get a WiFi microscope to check your trichomes mid September. I have this one. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07PVMRZQH?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share . Works great. There's some pics I took with it a month or 2 ago on my profile.
To an extent but the best thing would be to just buy a dehumidifier so you dont run into mold or mildew issues.
Even for the next go around. Its worth having. G L. 🍻
I agree with Junior. Some of the best outdoor I've grown was from an AK-47 that got ripped in half during pre flower. It had all the root structure to support x amount of Bud sites but then had twice as many! Obviously some hardcore unintentional high-stress training. Since that day though I find myself taking more and more off my plants intentionally.
Chopping something down when you're not comfortable can be scary. I personally don't think it's too late for super cropping. I've never used low stress clips but maybe they will work for you in your particular situation.
Get coated garden wire.
328ft (100m) Twist Ties, Green Garden Plant Ties with Cutter for Plants, Vines and Wrapping Cords, Multi-Function Garden Plant Wire Ties for Gardening and Office Organization, Home https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09GNGDKBM/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_SKT6G0KFW72H8KZFXBF1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
If you want to get fancy you can set them on a timer for 16 on 8 off for max veg while it's growing.
And remember, it will only get as big as the roots can support so if you max harvest get some bigger cloth bags for it. I personally recommend 15 or 25 galon bags
Please get some proper grow lights asap. Those bulbs will not provide the right spectrums and it will die.
Cheaper option https://www.amazon.com/dp/B083JVXHF6/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_38579MN7FAA8BD6T1MJ0?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Better option https://www.amazon.com/dp/B083JVVZSM?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
SONKIR Soil pH Meter, MS02 3-in-1 Soil Moisture/Light/pH Tester Gardening Tool Kits for Plant Care, Great for Garden, Lawn, Farm, Indoor & Outdoor Use (Green) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07BR52P26/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_RCE8MM9FXXXR8B71NJQE
If you do not yet have a loupe, they are really cheap on Amaxon: https://www.amazon.com/iKKEGOL-Foldable-Magnifying-Jewelers-Magnifier/dp/B08MKQRFV5/ref=sr_1_8?crid=350SZ3NQXFUII&keywords=30x+loupe&qid=1649703067&sprefix=30x+loupe%2Caps%2C114&sr=8-8
You might be able to get a dimmer switch
You could try training it over, maybe even topping it then training it.
This the one I use and it works perfect for my grows and it’s Bluetooth to your phone so you can also control it and lets you know when to add water and all the best humidifier I purchased
LEVOIT Humidifiers for Bedroom Large Room Home, Smart Wifi Alexa Control, 6L Top Fill Cool Mist for Baby and Plants, Ultrasonic, Essential Oil Diffuser, Customized Humidity, Night Light, Quiet, Gray https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08HS45N13/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_C5E4WQ4F4JVTGDF48GKB?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I use one of these if the lights don’t put enough heat out
Low wattage, 150/250 and puts out 580/853btus if that’s enough for your space.
There’s absolutely no reason why you can’t, and you don’t need to waste money on some fancy heated floor.
I had similar issues on my first grow, this saved me after just two applications. Pretty cheap too. I know u have an outside grow so nothing you can do but usually high humidity is high when you get mildew.
AgroMagen, GrowSafe Bio-Pesticide, Organic Natural Miticide, Fungicide and Insecticide, (7) Ready-to-Use Pack) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08V93TWTB/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_C4SATBDHMVY2YHM0VRS0?psc=1
Look into cob leds or quantum led boards. Don't buy the cheap shit trust me. I'd recommend these below. The 2nd link I'd run 3 of them in flower. If you bought 3 you would have the option to run only 2 during veg that way you could conserve on electric. They are expensive but the lights should be the most expensive part of your grow. I just realized you stated your tent measurements are metric so you're probably not in the U.S. so idk if these companies ship over seas or not. Also if you're handy and can wire up speakers or light electrical stuff I can point you in the directions to diy led strip light builds or cob led builds.
I have this one- super easy and inexpensive.
i’ve only used the powder. a fair covering of the soil (should still be able to see a little bit of dirt, maybe 75% coverage) and gently applying the dust to the underside of the leaves should do the trick.
they have little pump applicators that i use to spread it over the garden (real bad stink bug problems here in the summertime), i would recommend this to hit the leaves as you don’t have to touch / disturb the plant. Applicator thing
JMH Magnifying Glass with Light, 30X Handheld Large Magnifying Glass 18LED Cold and Warm Light with 3 Modes, Illuminated Lighted Magnifier for Seniors Reading, Inspection, Coins, Jewelry, Exploring https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08XXF1VCS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_BW01NEHXP53TD7E8CAN9?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Spider Farmer 4 Inch Grow Tent Fan with Temperature Humidity Controller, 205 CFM EC Motor Quiet Ventilation Exhaust Fan for Heating Cooling Booster, Grow Tents, Hydroponics https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08S7BKS3Q/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_i_V54KBNW2RM4GZ74PYS6B?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I have read that if you are planning to use your buds to make shatter or similar products, then now would be the time to harvest, to take advantage of the plants highest possible thc potency. But for the best quality of smokeable buds you should wait for more amber trichomes.
Source: The Bible
These have a 20% coupon, so like $40+tax. This is good for 1 plant in a 2x2 tent. Or however many you can cram into that tent.
Ph Test Kit
MAXSISUN PB1000 Pro Grow Light, 100W LED Grow Lights for Indoor Plants Full Spectrum Uses Samsung Diodes and Mean Well Driver Remote Control Dimmable Growing Lamps for a 2’x2’ Grow Tent Veg & Bloom https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08342W6NW/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_dl_PJSFXPRW3R29K064Q1Z2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Limited-time deal: BLOOMSPECT Upgraded 600W LED Grow Light with Daisy Chain, Dual Chips Full Spectrum Plant Grow Lights for Indoor Hydroponics Greenhouse Plants Veg and Flower (60pcs 10W LEDs) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07MJ5MS81/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_dl_2NRX79HFFRMEXWMCD04Y?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
It’s not the best but it works for me
I have 3 of them in a 3x3 tent.
You can see the pics on my profile of how they look
Govee Bluetooth Thermometer... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DWMJKP5?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Get something like this. Pretty accurate, monitors humidity, temperature, and it’s Bluetooth so you can keep track of the environment history on your phone for short/long term corrections. Cost like $16.
Bro just go with the philzon 1200w 2 of them for 90$ each. Amazon!! Has a veg and bloom light option
Phlizon 1200W Double Switch Series Plant LED Grow Light for Indoor Plants Greenhouse Lamp Full Spectrum Growing LED Light for Veg Bloom with Thermometer Adjustable Rope(Actual Power 250watt) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07GBLF7Q6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_P48VC5MMQJ6A0GCNSPX6
Ok, 100 sq inches per plant. So just over 7 square feet. Very similar to a 4x2 tent. BTW always have a light with a dimmer. You will never regret that.
Budget choice two Viparspectra P1500s off ebay for $90 each. Or maybe a single 240 watt light. Depends on the shape of the area. Even more budget would be this one from KUAREZ https://www.amazon.com/Light-Waterproof-Superior-Spectrum-Greenhouse-Hydroponic/dp/B087WS1MKC/ref=sr\_1\_7?crid=2KXA3MCSW7402&dchild=1&keywords=kuarez&qid=1630972559&sprefix=kuar%2Caps%2C183&sr=8-7&th=1
MARS HYDRO Grow Tent Kit Complete 2.3x2.3ft TS1000W LED Grow Light Dimmable Full Specturm Indoor Grow Tent Complete System, 27"x27"x63" Hydroponics Grow Tent Kit 1680D with 4” Ventilation Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B088STYP1X/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_3PQ474P60ZDABB9344GW?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Gerylove SP-1000W LED Grow Light 3x3 Ft Coverage Dimmable Full Spectrum LED Grow Lamp for Indoor Plants Seeding Veg & Bloom（Power Draw 100W） https://www.amazon.com/dp/B091SJTRPL/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_PJQZ5685J12RJY4RK52R?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Test strips always felt unreliable to me.
Here is a highly recommended ph tester that will save money in the long run and give you much more accurate results.
First time grower here too, and I'm about a week away from harvesting. I've used this light and it's been great for me. But do your own research on lights. Google is a great help
They have something called the trio. I think its big bloom, grow big, and tiger bloom. You absolutely want the two that say bloom, because thats the phase youre in.
However, you are showing signs of a nitrogen deficiency as well, so you could either use the grow big as well (but only once or twice because the plants dont need much nitrogen in the flowering phase) or you could fill the rest of your pot up with a soil amendment, a rich soil or compost to water through.
The yellowing could also be from a ph that is too high, as that also causes yellowing from the bottom up. The best thing to do is get a ph tester and lowering gently with lemon juice until.its in the 6.5-6.0 range. Here is a tester to consider.
I have been told a few times now that this is a really good pen to use. 6.5 is alright, but I tend to aim for 6.0 in late flowering. Good luck, either way, the plant looks beautiful, and I have even come up with 30% thc bud while dealing with yellowing caused by an incorrect ph.
Yeah I use a ph pen to test the water and lower it to 6.2 with lemon juice. Its a good habit to get into.
Honestly, if I am using good quality soil (a mix of good soil from the nursery with compost in a 1-4 ratio), I usually let the plant live off the soil until its a month or so old. After that you can get a nitrogen based fertilizer, look at the fox farm line maybe or Roots Organic, look for kinds that say Grow or ones that have a higher N number (N-P-K numbers are at the bottom of the fertilizer container). Use at 1/4 strength or 1/2 strength at first, once a week or a little less. Also get some CalMag and use that at similar strength once every couple weeks.
Once flowering is near, ease off any growing nutes and start with flowering nutes (less N, more P and K), light at first, heavier once flowering is fully engaged. Sometimes i make a simple syrup out of raw sugar and add a shot glass per gallon, the plants love it.
Probably won’t yield much better off outdoors. On a budget you could try one of these
JACKYLED 3 in 1 Light Socket Splitter E26 E27 Adapter LED Standard Lights Bulbs Converter for Home Office Basement https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07BFN5Y3Z/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glc_fabc_E2EM93W5QRWN4KQMVP6T?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
A little is normal, but if the ph of their water is too high, then the plant cannot take.in the proper nutrients and starts to yellow from the bottom up. This becomes increasingly noticeable as flowering starts.
They need a ph pen and adjust the ph of the water in a bucket using lemon juice. They want to aim for a ph of 6.2-5.8.
Here's a link to a random ph pen on amazon, just to give you an idea of what you're looking for.
Chop your plants and remove all major leaves. You can even do a full trim on the buds right away if you want, but leave them on their stems/branches, because you'll want to hang them. I dont know what your space is like, whether you can use a spare bedroom, garage, shed, or whatever, as long as you can keep the space below 50% humidity and at a temperature between 60-70 degrees is usually best. Hang them for 3-6 days, depending on bud size and density, then you can clip them off onto screens for another 3-6 days. Start by keeping the buds separate on the screens, and by day 3-6 they should be in dense piles, rotated once or twice a day. After that you can put them in glass mason jars, no more than half full. Close the jar for the first 6 hours, then open and see how the buds feel. Its possible they will feel a little moist or every so slightly spongy. Then just leave the jar open on its side, once again with light air circulation on or near the jars, and leave them open for 24 hours, rotating once in a while. Then 18 hours, then 12, then 6, etc. You'll know its working by the smell too. A very grassy smell in the jar means they need to come back out onto the racks, but a slightly green smell is okay at first, but they should develop a very dank bud smell specific to their strain over the next week.
Less water, more nitrogen, bigger pot, then top.
Keep feeding at 6.0 ph. Thats the proper ph for flowering.
If its drooping with wet soil, you could be over watering. Do you have a soil moisture meter?
Top soil means nothing, get a proper soil moisture measurement tool like this one.
Yes use this (linked below). You will likely find your water sits in the ph7-7.5 range. You will want to add lemon juice to it drop by drop until it sits at 6.0-6.3. Later during flowering, a ph of 5.8-6.2 is more ideal.
More specific questions get answered more on this sub.
Always have a little weather station that can tell you humidity and temp, as these things will be very important throughout your grow. Be prepared to control humidity if possible. Get a moisture meter to measure soil moisture levels so you water only when needed, and het a ph meter to measure the ph of the water and feeding solutions you're introducing. I'll link both below. You want s ph of around 6.0, however you can get away with 6.5 throughout most of the vege state.
Are you using a ph meter like this (linked at the bottom) to measure the water before going in? If yes, then mix tiny amounts of the dust into your water, and re-measure until its around 6, and water with that.
Do NOT sprinkle on the dirt. That dust is crazy powerful and you could really hurt your plant. It needs to be mixed in the water and you need the proper measurement tool to measure the ph of your water in order to use it properly.
Whats the ph of the water you're putting in, or the runoff thats coming out? Yellowing at that age can often be a deficiency cause by an improper ph, and maybe a little burning from giving it more nutes without correcting for said ph.
Here is a good ph meter
The whole pot, all down to the bottom dries out every day? If thats the case, its time to transplant.
I suggest getting one of these, and not watering until.the meter is between 3 and 5.
Heres a commonly posted copy pasta..
Watch your ph of the water you use, and later on the feeding solutions you create. The older the plant, the more important ph is. 6.5 is good for growth stage, then 6.2-5.8 is good for flowering. Use lemon juice in very very small portions to lower the ph of your water if needed.
I present to you, my basic growers copy pasta.
Watch your ph of the water you use, and later on the feeding solutions you create. The older the plant, the more important the ph is. 6.5 is good for growth stage, then 6.2-5.8 is good for flowering. Use lemon juice in very very small portions to lower the ph of your water if needed.
It looks slightly over watered and totally ready to top. It looks healthy and happy and you will absolutely get good results when it flowers.
If you.can find something like this at a local garden store, it wil help you water when you need to.
Get one of these to stick in the soil and water when it reaches 3-5. I've included a link to a ph tester for your water as well.
While you're at it, grab one of these to test your soil moisture levels. You dont want to water until the level is between 3-5.
A gradual yellowing from the bottom up plus a spotting on the leaf indicative of a deficiency usually points to a ph issue.
Do you test the ph of the water or feeding solution you feed your plant? If no, get one of these things that I have linked below. At this stage of growth. A ph of 6.5-6.3 is fine, but your goal should be 6.3-5.8 by the time flowering is established. If your ph is too high, add drops of lemon juice into your water, a couple at a time, until the ph is just right.
Need all other info. Soil, ferts etc. But here is my most common copypasta.
I love the Roots Organic line, Fox Farm is also very popular.
Here is my most popular general growers copy pasta.
Looks great but get this to measure your ph of the water youre putting in. Will add more later.
Id you've got mushrooms, make sure you're not overwatering. Water between 3-5
Sometimes overwatering that warp leaves like that. So can microscopic mites. If you dont use a moisture meter, get one, and dont eater until the dial reaches 3-5. If leaves continue to warm, send more pics when that happens.
Could definitely be ph. Get a measuring tool linked below, at that age, aim for 6.3-6.0, and keep it steady.
Yess, use water with a ph of 6.5-6.3 ,moving to 6.3-5.8 during flowering. A proper ph will allow the plant to take in the right nutrients.
Use a moisture meter like the one linked below to measure the content of the soil. Water when it reaches 3-5.
Also look into getting a moisture meter like this that you can stick into the soil and get a good reading on how much you need to water. I usually dont water until the reading is between 5-3
Here's a link to a simple ph meter.
This is similar to the fancy one I used at my greenhouse job, except for 1/5 the price.
Ive always used this. Very helpful to avoid a dry pot or overwatering. But maybe watering needs are different in a soilless setup? I truly dont know.
I ordered this one. It’s more expensive, $70 but it connects to my WiFi so I can get updates even when I’m away from home, and it comes with 3 sensors.
Govee Indoor Outdoor Thermometer, WiFi Hygrometer Thermometer with App Alerts, for Greenhouse Basement Room, 3 Sensors 1 Gateway (Only Support 2.4G WiFi) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0834SNGQW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_82K0QRBQA413KW72BB7E?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
She looks like she has stretched a lot. How close if your light source? Also, you see leaf curls for many reasons, but overwatering is the most common. With a plant that young, you need to do very little watering once you soak the soil for the first time. The roots will expand out into the moist soil over the course of a couple weeks, all you need to do is apply a few drops at the base of the stem every couple days to keep it going, if even that. Get a moisture meter to measure the soil moisture and know when you need to water again. Here's a link to one for an example, but you can find them at any garden store.
This is the one I use inside my tent. Works great, long lasting tank (over 24 hours on medium) and has humidity sensor. The screen does stay on, but I just covered the screen with a price of tape and used the remote. Inside a 3x3 tent, it easily hits 60% humidity.
>bro this is my first grow. But it seems
add 1 tsp of vinegar per gallon of water, this gives a relatively more accurate ph to start with if you don't have a ph meter (you NEED one Soil and Water PH meters, PPM meter - amazon), it does look to be a potassium or a phosphorus deficiency, but i do think its from the ph.
You can grow plants this way but it really won't be worth it. If the plant struggles, the final result is minimal and lower quality. I'm assuming you want some great buds from the plant you grow, well spend a few dollars, get some nutrients and get your plant right so it can produce for you.