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I want to take this moment to brag about the Tamiya pin vise https://www.amazon.com/Fine-Pin-Vise-0-1-3-2mm-Tamiya/dp/B000J44ZSA/
My only complaint is that the smallest collet does not have properly centered jaws. It almost resembles the Super Smash Bros logo. It's not that skewed, but it is noticeable.
It’s Clara from a Doctor Who 2-pack. The whole this is a repaint of one figure. Those figures are trash but I love the show.
It never occurred to me that a 4.5” figure of an adult was the solution until someone in this sub mentioned using a Walking Dead figure for the movie version of X-23 - I took one look at my Dr. Who figures, bc they are the same scale, and done.
It took me 14 months to figure out a body to use and 24 hours to paint. That is how psyched I was.
Figure below:
Have you seen the Disney/Pixar Toybox figures from the Disney Store? They're a little bit smaller than ML (I have a couple of the Star Wars figures from the Toybox line and they're roughly half an inch shorter than my Black Series figs) and differently proportioned, but the character likenesses are fairly decent and there's a chance that the heads might work with some modding and paint retouching? Unless you're looking for "this character but realistic" instead of the animated look.
Here's a picture of the Mr and Mrs Incredible figures for reference
Mattel also made some 6-inch sized Amazon Exclusive figures that have nice looking headsculpts.
For sealing the best I keep seeing recommended is a clear Testors spray lacquer, you can get it on Amazon for cheap. Recently used it for the first time and I love it
Testors Spray Lacquer 3oz, Clear Coat https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009FF6DN4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_GrlVEbNCA76NB
BST AXN distributed by Loyal Subjects. He's like $18 on Amazon.
Another one that might work for customizing is Funko Legacy’s Ajani Goldmane figure (from the card game Magic: the Gathering).
No problem! Although now that I look through some of the offerings on Amazon, this one looks familiar: https://www.amazon.com/Papo-Animal-Kingdom-Figure-Roaring/dp/B00IO8BYFK
Pretty sure they have animal figures like this at Target. I don't know if they'd scale well enough with DC or Marvel figures, but if you happen to be at a Target (I think Walmart might even have some), it wouldn't hurt to pass by the toy aisle to pick one up and compare with the figures on the racks. If it's the right size, it could just take some dremel work and clay to get it to fit on a different body.
I highly recommend Green Stuff (The Army Painter 2 Part Modeling Clay, 20cm - Moldable Model Putty for Miniatures, Easy-to-Knead Green Stuff Putty Epoxy Clay for Sculpting, Green Stuff tools - The Original Green Stuff Kneadatite https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001AE5ZQO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_X8SD2DJ1FPWC1JPCWZYP)
It’s a two part epoxy clay that is easy to shape, takes details well, and air dries. When it dries, it takes paint very well and retains some flexibility (great for hair, big ears, etc.) without being too soft.
That is a super cool idea and I will now have to struggle with the moral decision of whether I should steal it. This is the exact figure but I hope you can find a better price than this. I found it at Ross for 10 bucks but that was months ago. https://www.amazon.com/Disney-Take-Aim-Buzz-Lightyear/dp/B09C9QZB9R
I’ve been using this stuff for shiny metal surfaces. It says it’s for airbrush use, but honestly I think I’m getting better results putting it on by hand. The paint is extremely thin so you basically just over-apply it to the area you want to chrome and then give it a few minutes to settle/dry. You might have issues applying it without a primer layer though, which I assume you’ll avoid because you’re without an airbrush. But it’s at least an option, and definitely simpler than electroplating.
Made a second custom cobra Mercenary. Call her uplink. A cyborg merc. Inspired by the Xmen's Reavers, & the Dreadnoks.
2nd pic is side by side with the Leftenant.
After making my first , I am now inspired to make a whole team of crazy mercenaries, kinda have the Black Company in the back of my head for this team of mercs.
I wouldn’t know what would be best for that figure but I use (Testors paint)[Testors 9146XT Promotional Enamel Paint Set( Packaging may vary) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00005C2KF/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_RNPZ0M4WB4BHK9MK3RKP ] it’s meant for models but I think the plastic is the same. It’s a lot more expensive than that stuff, though.
FixIts Pack of 3 Sticks - Mouldable Plastic - Endlessly Reusable - for Repairing, Protecting, Crafting, Creating, Everyday DIY and More - White Pack https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B07KX43GSZ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_R02F9S24AQHW8F55ZFRY
Use thermal plastic in the same way as hot glue, except it hardens into a much a harder solid once cooled, providing a better friction surface without damaging the figure or being too soft
Order a matte finish spray paint like this: https://www.amazon.com/Mr-Top-Coat-Flat-Spray/dp/B0000WS12C
Once it arrives and is in your house spray the figure with that.
I honestly don't know of anything that will remove the shiny finish. Acetone or Isopropyl alcohol MIGHT but it will most likely take the paint off as well. Your best bet is honestly just spraying it with a matte finish.
I highly recommend the book Pop Sculpture: How to Create Action Figures and Collectible Statues, it covers a lot of what you are asking. It's over ten years old, so some of the products they recommend are not available anymore, but it's a great guide.
>Anycubic resin
reviews on amazon say its flexible and stronger than normal resin: " low odor and the prints are slightly flexible and more durable than traditional resin."
https://www.amazon.com/ANYCUBIC-Printer-Plant-Based-Precision-Printing/dp/B07YZ78NN3?th=1
UPDATE: May have found a candidate in this guy Bruder police officer Anyone had any experience with this series before? It says ABS plastic but I want to make sure the material for the accessories isn't cheap. Also that price, ugh.
Thank you so much for the pointers and the link. Much appreciated.
Your point about the spray finish is particularly well taken. Here's the sealer I used. It's supposed to be matte, but was much more glossy than I would have liked. Are there any better ones that you could recommend?
My next project has a lot of blue to their uniform again. I'm thinking I'll try to prime the whole figure in the Zenithal method the way I did with this one's cape and see how that looks.
I don't know about cracking, but I recently sealed a soft rubber cape with an acrylic sealer. I had stripped, primed, and repainted the cape already and it was fully cured and dry to the touch. I did two thin layers with the acrylic sealer and 48 hours later the cape was still very sticky all over. Five days later than that, it was no less sticky. I had to strip the thing and start all over.
Maybe you're dealing with different materials than me, though. Here's the sealer I used, and this is the action figure the cape came from. Didn't have any stickiness issues at all when I used the exact same processes for the hard plastic pieces.
Hope this helps. Good luck!
I just ordered this
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0757DW6DH/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
seems like it is highly recommended by people that sell their custom figures.
https://www.amazon.com/Pop-Sculpture-Figures-Collectible-Statues/dp/0823095223
It's not about 3D modeling, but it's a good resource to understand how action figures are sculpted and prototyped.
As for adding joints, I think you're going to need to sculpt everything separately, or at least sculpt the legs separately from the torso, in order to get the clearance you need. Maybe make a basic 5 points "skeleton" with all the joints worked out that you can use for different sculpts? That way you could keep your peg sizes consistent.
*edit* Sorry, just saw that you're wanting to use 3d scans. That will definitely make it tougher, but having a skeleton should still work if you can slice through the 3d sculpt in places and insert the skeleton, while carving away areas to create space for joint movement.
With a pin vice https://www.amazon.com/Fine-Pin-Vise-0-1-3-2mm-Tamiya/dp/B000J44ZSA
and tiny drill bits designed for rotary tools https://www.amazon.com/Dremel-628-01-Drill-Bit-Set/dp/B00C3IPGA6
I own the exact items in the links, and have made extensive use of them when making and modifying weapons for 6 inch scale figures.
I do not recommend drilling tiny holes, where precision is important, with a motorized tool, since the speed will melt the plastic, and ruin your piece.
Procreate is a great sculpting material. You can mix it to stay flexible while still being paintable and is great for sculpting hair.
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Cool. This is a lot more like what I wanted to hear. I recently picked up this paint set. Any tips on a decent primer? I'm hoping for one I can find at Hobby Lobby or Walmart.
I was using the exact same paints up until about a month ago. Switch to acrylics designed for stuff like Warhammer figurines. This is the pack I grabbed off Amazon. Acrylics are so much thinner, and because you can basically use them a drop at a time for details, the bottles last longer than enamels. The ones I linked are totally flat though, so if you want any gloss at all you’ll want to lightly dab it with some gloss finisher on a paper towel. That way you can achieve the balance between the high gloss ‘plastic’ look and the ‘dehydrated mummy’ look and use different levels of gloss for the skin, hair, and eyes.
This is a must have if you want to airbrush - I have the same kit and the key is to always clean after every session or between colors - I usually run thinner, then windshield washer fluid (or windex original - with ammonia), and water (repeat until the airbrush spews clear) - no need to buy specific airbrush cleaner solutions
If your compressor doesn't turn on when you plug it in, you need to increase the pressure (lift and twist the black knob and turn towards the plus sign - 25-30psi will be fine)
A lot of people use Citadel but I'm more used to Tamiya but the concept is the same - thin paints (in general 1:1 paint:thinner) prior to airbrushing
I would stick to the dual-action guns over the single-action in that kit since the former has more utility and control - I haven't found a use for single-action yet but I'm sure there is - all you need to know is pushing down the trigger controls air flow while pulling up on the trigger controls how much paint comes out - practice on paper first
I've heard that using windex is a great alternative to using thinner for acrylic paints but I haven't tried yet - if so, then it's a great money saver
I would also look into a airbrush booth if you plan to paint indoors to collect the fumes - I have the generic portable one and it works great (https://www.amazon.com/Master-Airbrush-Portable-Painting-T-shirts/dp/B00BMUH8L6/ref=pd_sbs_201_1?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00BMUH8L6&pd_rd_r=36F6CYT7WNA7Q9Y4AVS9&pd_rd_w=18wRl&pd_rd_wg=V3l93&psc=1&refRID=36F6CYT7WNA7Q9Y4AVS9)
r/modelmakers has a great post on airbrushing if you need further help including how to and maintenance
I just scraped lines in it with an exacto knife, wasn't really hard.
I mostly use Apoxie Sculpt for all my customs.
For paints, any acrylics would work. You could buy some fancier model paints like Vallejo, but I use random cheap stuff from hobby shops just as much as the nice stuff. Just make sure it's thinned nicely and you should be fine.
I'd recommend watching some youtube videos on figure customizing/painting. It's literally all I used to teach myself and you can go through my submitted posts and see my custom figures.