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Freesound
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tonymacx86.com
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Do not edit out the room tone on the dialogue, it is part of the dialogue. You should be looking for clean chunks of tone, using it to fill across unwanted sounds and for smoothing edits. Sounds like you need a good read up on dialogue editing, and it doesn't get better than this book.
You're not going to be able to find something more affordable than the 2i2. The most portable would be the Zoom series. They're amazingly good quality, and have built in preamp + recording capability. All data goes out of mini-usb, or SD card.
Wanted to pop my head in and say thanks to everyone for following our <strong>SubReddit Rules</strong>
soundeziner and I have been chatting and want to encourage the posting of jobs/gigs to this subreddit, we just want to make sure it is done fairly and mindfully of our big "don't post any personal information" rule.
Basically, you're doing it right, keep the personal info in PMs to the OP.
Look for a more official ModPost from us shortly!
Thanks,
Pete
NI Kontakt is the product that immediately springs to mind.
http://www.native-instruments.com/en/products/komplete/samplers/kontakt-5/
The factory library is pretty huge and they do sound pretty damn good. It's also an extremely powerful sampler in its own right.
I can do this up for ya no problem. Do you want the space in between the songs as long as it is here?
EDIT: http://www.filedropper.com/weddingsongfix - here ya go. Fixed the end of both songs, and put a bit of a reverb trail on them so it wasn't such an awkward stop.
Just chiming in here to say that I've been running PC Pro Tools at home, and Mac Pro Tools at work for the past ~5 years. Both equally as stable.
One thing which I have done which eases the transition between the two platforms is to buy a mac keyboard for my PC, and then remap the ctrl key to command and the windows key to control. That makes remembering your keyboard shortcuts much easier, as the ctrl, opt and cmd modifiers are then the same across the two platforms.
You can do this at the registry level using Sharpkeys.
I've used Switch: http://www.nch.com.au/switch/ before and it's worked well. It sounds like it preserves metadata, but I have no experience with that, so buyer beware. Used it for batch converting wavs to ogg for SFX in a game.
Start with a great foundation. Read "Mastering Audio - the Art and the Science". The book is mainly a book about mastering technique - but really goes very in-depth into the right way to approach audio mixing and mastering. After that, there are lots of books dealing with various aspects of film sound. But seriously - ANY audio professional should have the above book by Bob Katz. In it he also touches on surround mixing for film, so he really does cover a lot of ground. Good luck!
Practice, practice, practice. Take commercials on youtube and re-do the sound design, as well as re-score them. The more variety the better. Obviously if it has VO or actors with dialogue you might not want to bother, unless you have access to a decent booth, pre-amp, and mic, AND a good actor. If you re-did the VO, SFX, and score that would be impressive IMO.
I think variety is the key when it comes to practicing. No need to take 5 or 10 min clips. That's just overkill. Most reels clock in around 2 or 3 minutes long. If you can't demonstrate your skill in that time-frame then the extra time isn't going to matter. A potential employer isn't going to want to watch a 25 minute reel. And think about it - most advert spots are anywhere between 10 - 30 seconds long anyway.
I finally got my first paid gig using this reel. A friend of a friend who owns a business and is producing a commercial saw it, liked it, and asked me to sound design and score it. Granted it's only a one-time freelance gig, but any little bit helps establish one's career.
If you're good, and you persevere, then you'll get noticed. Good luck!
I think my fingers are glued to control-shift since I have to snap sync point to location so often.
I'd suggest buying QuicKeys if you're on a mac and haven't already picked it up. It allows you to create your own key commands which can make the tasks that you deal with most often go much faster. Want to extend all regions by a certain amount of frames and add a fade with one key stroke? QK can do that. You can then easily alter the command so that it extends the front of regions by one amount and the end by another. Just examples, QK can combo anything ProTools has commands for and then some. I was hoping we could all share some QK shortcuts via the RPAN site but that hasn't taken off yet.
had a go at making a similar ish one because I'm bored, obviously it's super rough I did it in 10 minutes but there you are.
http://i.imgur.com/ZCFP1Di.jpg
Track 1: sniper rifle sound pitched down a bit with some reverb.
Track 2: some reverse reverb just to lead into the gunblast "warp" thig.
track 3: Reverb channel for the gun, long decay, with an EQ cutting everything above 150 hz to get the "rumble".
Track 4: flashbulb sound loaded into alchemy, has a slight decay on a pitch LFO so the sound decays into garbage just before the warp.
Track 5: Squeaky metal sound loaded into alchemy with an LFO modulation on it to make the transformers sound after the warp.
You can always save some money going the Hackintosh way. Tony86 has some great builds. I know some people doing big films on these kinds of systems for half the price.
Nope you can use a GUI if you want.
All you need is this file to get started (7zip to unzip).
run r128gain in the folder to get the gui, add some wav files, supply an output folder and go. The default is (by memory) ebu128.
There is a doc folder inside the r128tools folder with a full help file in it.
edit: sorry, it's been a while, you also need to change the "format" dropdown to "command" and specify an output folder before it writes the corrected file with the gain change, otherwise it just updates metadata only (I think). Forgive me, we set this up as a commandline script years ago.
It gets a little lost in the shuffle, because it's a video editing program, but DaVinici Resolve has an excellent audio editor built into it called Fairlight.
The entire application (video editor, color grading, audio editor) is completely free. There's a paid version for teams with additional collaboration features, but the free version is not hindered in any way. No trials, no free license required, no upsets.
I've been pointing more and more people towards that. As long as you don't mind ignoring the rest of the application, it's worth trying out. You may find you need a dedicated DAW, but most folks don't.
Audio Hijack: https://rogueamoeba.com/audiohijack/ In my opinion WAY nicer than soundflower (though definitely not free). Route multiple apps to the same recording, record all apps separately, attach a plugin chain or meters to specific apps (great for watching movies late at night - just shove a compressor on, no longer have to ride the volume when it gets loud and disturbs neighbors).
I personally have it running 24/7 for my IK Multimedia ARC room correction on my system output.
Pink noise with a 1/3 octave 12dB boost at 1K sounds like a crowd cheering, you can play with that to create the global everyone talking atmosphere and just keep it way down in the mix. The low end rumble of wooden carts can be useful as well, if that makes sense in context of the video. If you don't have a large wooden cart, record your AC kicking on and then EQ and Pitch to taste.
You can also try getting samples of the sounds you'd be hearing in a market, maybe people walking on sand (can be emulated recording fingers in a bowl of salt fairly well) or goats or wood creaking, any number of the non human, environmental sounds you get in an open air market. I don't know what your restrictions are, but the freesoundproject over at http://www.freesound.org/ could be incredibly useful for you.
As far as making it sound like there's a bunch of conversations going on, the best way to do that is to just record as many people as you can and move the placements with panning and level. Reverb can help here by adding a distance and space. Another good way to add space is to roll the highs back a bit, just like happens in real life when someone is farther away from you. The other thing is that unless you're planning to pitch and EQ each vocal take, you need a bunch of different people more than a bunch of different lines. Try not to record these in a perfect space, and use an omni mic instead of a directional. This way you'll add general noise like what happens in a market, and you won't have to fight mic response or things like that.
Remember to think about what's going on in your scene. All the cool tricks in the world are worthless if they don't fit. Best of luck, I'd love to hear how all this turns out.
Not familiar at all with Sony Vegas, um you could split up the tracks putting the quieter parts on another audio track and then using the compressor on the track and increase the make-up gain. Or use a compressor on the original track with a very high threshold and then apply make up gain.
If you're serious about getting into sound editing check out a better program dedicated for it such as Pro Tools, it's expensive though; another good 'free' option would be Reaper.
Edit: If you're not so sure on the basics of audio check out /r/audioengineering 's wiki on the basics here
This week me and my buddy's Android game Can Factory is live on google play - https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.boogerlab.canfactory
I did a fun, evolving vintage synth music track (in the vein of Mort Garson) and Hanna Barbera type sfx, via FMOD from mostly original or CC0 sources.
You'll want an HDMI audio extractor capable of 5.1. This looks promising https://www.amazon.com/AllAboutAdapters-Digital-Analog-Decoder-Switch/dp/B07J3MJGNX/
daaamn, that's not cheap at all. I was hoping to get by with a little converter bought on amazon.
my idea was to getting something like this
https://www.amazon.com/AllAboutAdapters-Digital-Analog-Decoder-Switch/dp/B07J3MJGNX/
and connect each audio output to the analog in of the genelecs (using a rca-xlr adapter).
it sounds a bit messy but I was hoping it could work.
Get these: https://www.amazon.com/Sound-Professionals-NOISE-BINAURAL-MICROPHONES/dp/B002N6PAMM
The pair I got stopped working after some rough handling, but with these and a good recorder no one will know you're recording - you'll just look like you're listening to music.
They are very directionally and touch sensitive, but amazingly they do the job.
Add a good recorder for field work and you're set. You can record anything without drawing any attention to yourself.
For the footage I'd go with a phone. Just act like a dopey tourist if anyone (police) try to stop you.
With all of that said, the editing will be hard, but fun. Just get a ton of pick ups (footsteps, train sounds, etc.)
You'll do great.
Oh man I've taken like 2 years to somehow reduce my rat nest...or more of hide it. I ended up grabbing this and drilling into my desk:
https://www.amazon.com/VIVO-Management-Holder-Organizer-DESK-AC06-1CW/dp/B0979QJZ42
it works but is the nest solved or just hidden? ;)
These days you actually have quite a few relatively high-quality IEMs available from some China-based brands that are pretty affordable. I've had the Fiio FD1 for a while now, and I love them so much I ended up selling off my significantly more expensive MEE Pinnacle P1 because the FiiO sounded better to me and was significantly more comfortable.
I've used them several times now for rough mixing when I've been on vacation but still had some work to do. IMO they have plenty of clarity for the kind of stuff you mentioned, and even enough for some forms of editing and putting together rough mixes (with the intention of reviewing them on a proper monitoring system when it's available). That said, I'd be wary of doing much of anything that pertains to soundstage, or EQ for that matter. It can be difficult to monitor that stuff accurately with IEMs alone.
I assume your macbook has bluetooth? I would just get a cheap pair of the airpod knockoffs.
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I use these ones just for general use with my phone and I was surprised at the sound quality. Mind you, that doesn't mean they are at all accurate or anything like that. They just sounded a lot better than I expected them to when I bought them. But like you said, you aren't doing any critical listening, so they should work fine.
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An external CD drive is around $20 on Amazon. I feel like your decision to outright avoid that cost is going to result in more time and frustration on your end.
Watched your old clip and it looks fun!
I'm definitely interested, as I don't have any motion design stuff in my portfolio and it seems like a fun challenge. You can view my reel here.
When would you want it completed by?
https://vimeo.com/adambrownsoundforfilm
Not so much a 'reel' per say, but everything I've done with both recording and mixing that im proud of. Going to be putting my Dissertation project on there too which has ADR and all the other good stuff included.
So I'll chime in with a super fast solution that does not require QT7, because you'll probably find that even once-valid SNs for it no longer work.
There exists an free app called Shutter Encoder. It is highly comprehensive but one great thing it does is allow you the option of replacing audio in an existing Quicktime file. You never have to re-output video. You can just insert your newest revision into the existing picture, which will automatically create a new QT file, and send it. It works for me 100% of the time.
Glitches in Adobe Audition make no sense. I would expect that it's because of your soundcard driver, so see if there's a newer one available.
Reaper is very difficult to use for a beginner.
You'd be better off using [https://www.tracktion.com/products/waveform-free](Waveform Free was released about two weeks ago).
I think the Sonnenschein book is closest to what you're looking for, as far as outlining workflow and practices, felt slightly dated at some parts.
if you really want to get nuts check out Designing Sound.
Everything Salsberry is correct. I've used both PC and Mac and like both, but don't get stuck in the Must-Be-A-Mac trap when there are often cheaper, better, more powerful alternatives available.
Even if you have a strong preference for Mac software, buying a PC is still a very good choice, as building a 'Hackintosh' has become a very easy and painless process. http://www.tonymacx86.com/ has some fantastic, regularly updated guides on exactly what the newest and most compatible PC components to buy are when building to ensure a totally stress free Hackintosh installation (better yet, dual-boot between MacOSX and Windows 7/10).
You can try Jack OS X - https://jackaudio.org/
I have used IShowUStudio on OS X before to record a mic, the output from Pro Tools, and screen record. Not free, but I think it's about $15, and I ended up using it after messing with OBS for a couple of hours trying to record both system sound and an external input, which turned out to be, as far as I could tell, impossible for OBS to do.
The trick with IShowU is it sets up an aggregate audio device that takes external and system sounds as inputs, then uses its internal mixer to give you the output of that without creating a feedback loop.
I've never used it, but I'm pretty sure there's an app you can download that will let you manually control your fan speed. I had a buddy who used to use it when he overclocked his ram. He used it for the opposite purpose as you would be, but it's the same boat. Just be careful about leaving it off for too long.
EDIT: Yup, here's one--http://www.macupdate.com/app/mac/23137/fan-control
For the following recordings on Zoom I definitely recommend disabling the suppression of persistend background noise and intermittent background noise. You can untick these options under the audio settings. I think you have bad audio from compression as well, not much to regarding heavy compression. I would give it a go with RX, EQing the recording, but the most important thing would be identifying the key issues regarding the audio. Did you lose a lot of top end? Is compression making the recording sound warbly (=digital)? What is your assessment? If you point out the issues, then there will definitely be an option of reparing clarity and quality.
The Strange Color of Your Body's Tears
might be difficult to find for a little while, hopefully it'll be released on some sort of VOD soon. also All Is Lost
If they refuse to buy X2Pro this is an option: In FCP X export XML file and import that file into DaVinci Resolve and choose add handles option. Use Resolve 12.1(or higher) and on the Deliver page, you need to select the "Export to Avid Pro Tools" preset.
It's a good question and I'm afraid I don't have an answer off the top of my head. I'll keep thinking about it and if I come up with something I'll drop you a line.
Two things that do occur to me: find a volunteer (or freelancer) who uses MetaSynth. Unfortunately that is a "Mac only" program last time I checked.
Secondly: there is the ever-changing (but fascinating) world of CSound (pronounced "c-sound"). The software is free but the list of people who are proficient is rather small. It's no small undertaking to learn it. Most people start with Richard Boulanger's excellent book.
There are other, equally flexible software environments like Symbolic Sound's Kyma. They usually have a little steeper "first step" commitment. Ah, if I could only win the Lotto!
What you are asking for is an unbelievably complicated problem that was always thought to be impossible. It's the equivalent to someone throwing a load of rocks into a lake at the same time while you are blind-folded and then you describing the exact size, speed and angle of each rock from just the wave patterns in the water.
Fortunately, some crazy German genius did the impossible and created Melodyne.
There's really no other choice and you'll need to get the polyphonic version. It's not perfect and if you have tonally complex music, you'll probably hear some artifacts, but it's still amazing considering the complexity of what it does.
You might find SoX really useful for this, it is a command line utility that can do all sorts of legwork on audio files. You can strip silence based on a duration and threshold.
You can probably make this just from using free sound effects from http://www.freesound.org - not nearly as hard to build as you would imagine. Another option would be recording your own with some kind of portable recorder. All depends on what you're going for.
The best free DAW is [Waveform Free])https://www.tracktion.com/products/waveform-free), but in general it's difficult to recommend anything because at the end of the day, they all do the same thing. It comes down to how comfortable you are working in the environment of each. Some of strengths and weakenesses for certain types of music. Ableton, FruityLoops, and BitWig are not great for recording/editing multiple tracks of real instruments/vocals, but are very good for pure electronic stuff. ProTools is the opposite, Cubase, Logic, Studio One, and Waveform are pretty good for everything. If you're a masochist, there is a free ProTools called ProTools First.
I wondered about it but since OP did say 5.1 encoded right there in the title...
In the event it is discrete multichannel and NOT encoded audio see if this gets your playback on your system happening for what you want
http://www.tonymacx86.com/130-how-enable-5-1-channel-analogue-audio-os-x.html
https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0B9pU_npT-mxmWGxwVjRhSlNBcTA&usp=sharing
For anyone who's interested, here's the finished result.
I had to make a game demo that lasts a mninute and a half only using a 10 mb sound library of 16bit, 44.1khz stereo wav files.
I'm soooooooo glad it's over, I had to cut about 3/4 of my dialogue... :(
A big hug to anyone who tried to help!
You can use a checksumming tool like http://www.julifos.com/soft/checksum/index.html . This only works if the files are 100%identical. This general approach will also work for other filetypes.
Similarityapp mentioned also in this thread, only the "Pro" version does audio fingerprinting?
mediamonkey might do this for free
1000 + instrumentals (Free to use on commercial videos) now on one torrent. (Released under creative commons 3) Credit to Antti Luode.
Torrent (thanks to Aizome at /r/gamedev)
https://drive.google.com/open?id=0ByvAPNATAYsBR0FUczYzWHk3NEU
Soundclick:
Yes, it is better, but for 4 more euros you can get something much better.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00HXE4BYW/
It does not however come with the arm, shock-mount or pop filter. It only includes the Mic, Cable, arm adapter and desk stand.
I know the Ev15s go down to about 50hzish. But i was hoping to go lower, so adding a sub would do the trick. I want to feel a Sub that you can feel in your chest. Something at least down to 30hz. Would this https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00SIM330Q/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A3SY4FF6XX1S54&psc=1
be a good option? if i didn't like my Jbl. I can also set a crossover filter, but as you say it probs wont matter
I wanted Some decent speakers for a party for my sub, was wondering if i would be able to use something like these https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00SIM330Q/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A3SY4FF6XX1S54&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/Sound-Film-Interviews-Creators-Sound/dp/0275944433
One of the best because you get to hear from the real people doing the work. It will help you learn the jargon, the politics and some behind the scenes stories on great film sound moments.
Some options... 1. C-clamp monitor arm mount, something like this 2. Mount it on the wall behind your desk 3. purchase a tall/deep enough desk to recess the monitor below the speaker
I saw your post, and I have a really specific solution from a few months ago when I needed to connect Adobe Premiere on my Win 10 laptop to a Logitech z906 5.1 setup for some quick 5.1 monitoring in my home studio.
The issue is that I couldn't get Premiere to output 5.1 via SPDIF. I think it has something to do with it needing to be 'discrete 6 channel multichannel sound' rather than an encoded SPDIF signal. So normally you have to buy a very expensive box with multiple outputs.
I think I even bought the 5.1 adapter you linked to and it didn't work. But then I bought this 7.1 adapter - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004HXGJ3S/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 - and used ASIO4ALL to emulate an ASIO output in Premiere. I had to route it using the 3 x 3.5mm cables (not the SPDIF output) but luckily my 5.1 system allowed that input. From memory I also had to set it to 5.1 in my Windows audio settings, and select the 8 channel output in ASIO4ALL, and I also had connect the rear speakers to the 'side speakers' output or something like that, but in the end I was able to get proper 5.1 output from Premiere for about $25.
I'm assuming it's the same in Audition because it's another Adobe program.
Hope this helps - it was such a specific solution for me that I didn't think I'd get to share it anywhere else!
I second this advice.
OP, most likely, someone who is willing to do your sound for free or cheap on a feature will be an amateur and won't make your sound that much better, just a different kind of bad.
Bootstrapping an indie feature is all about being industrious. You have an opportunity now to put yourself to work to make the movie the best it can be with the resources you have available to you, which is you, your brain, and your willingness to learn and work hard. No one will be willing to put in as much work on your movie as you are for the budget you have available.
A standard Pro Tools license is $35 a month, and with that you get access to the same tool that professional sound folks use all over the world. iZotope RX 8 allows a 30 day, nearly fully functional trial, which will be indispensable in your dialogue edit.
Buy this book, read it, then watch all of this guys' videos. Humble yourself to the process, it will make you a better filmmaker and give you a much better sense of the work that is required of a sound mixer when you do make a film where you can afford to hire that job out.
And you know what? After all that, your mix will still likely suck. That's just the reality of doing something for the first time, whether it's making a movie or baking a cake. If this is the first feature you've made, it probably will suck too. Take your lumps, feel overwhelmed, think about quitting, and then when you're finished, look back on it all and use that to make an ever better movie the next time.
I'd actually recommend doing this first. David was an amazing resource and his books are timeless. Highly recommend, the tech stuff is hard and long, but this stuff is what makes movies/artists.
Dialogue Editing for Motion Pictures goes over best standard practices, and should be a must read for anyone in both production and post production sound. The author also has a few videos online related to his book.
LinkedIn Learning/Lynda.com has a course under the Pro Tools Audio for Video section that is also super helpful.
Ok, cool. So HDMI was used, between the PC and the TV. That helps a lot.
The thing I was trying to nail down is at what stage the audio signal goes from digital to analogue. From what you've described, this is happening at the TV, where it takes the audio bitstream from the HDMI signal and converts it to an analogue signal, which is either going to play out of the TV's speakers, or, in your case, out through the RCA outputs to another set of speakers/monitors. This is the point at which electromagnetic interference/buzz/hiss is being introduced, most likely by the nearby image processing circuitry on your TV, which probably only kicks into high gear when you play high framerate media like video games (hence why it's not there when watching 23.98fps - 25fps content on Netflix). If you're playing out through the TV speakers, you probably wouldn't hear the hiss, because flat panel TV speakers are pretty bad, especially compared to monitors.
But you are going to hear the hiss and buzz from less than spectacular, unshielded digital-to-analogue converters when you play them through a set of monitors, as you've described.
So I'd say that the TV would be the more likely source of the buzz/hiss, rather than the aux inputs on your monitors. The easiest way to check would be to plug the PC or another known "good" source of audio into the aux input and see if you still get the buzz. If you don't, then you know it's coming from the TV.
Then, as I previously mentioned, your best bet would be to use the optical (digital) output of your TV, and then have a dedicated box which handles the digital to analogue conversion, like this one: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KNNSKV0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_l5fnFbQM5NB33
That way you're moving the digital to analogue conversion process - which is quite susceptible to interference - far away from the chips on the TV which might cause that interference.
Ok, so if the audio is being passed digitally from the PC to the TV through HDMI, and then the TV is converting it to an analogue signal to pass along to your monitors, then your TV is the source of the noise.
I’d say that the digital to analogue conversion of the audio in your TV is picking up unwanted interference. The reason why this is happening in games and not Netflix isn’t 100% clear, but I’m guessing it’s to do with the image processing circuitry in your TV.
Perhaps the increased frame rate (60fps? 120fps?) is causing the image processing chip to work “harder”, thus introducing electromagnetic interference. It could also be that your TV has a low latency mode for video games, and your GPU is flagging the HDMI signal as a game signal, thus enabling different image processing which introduces the noise. Either way, I’m guessing it comes down to noisy circuitry on the analogue output of the TV. They probably skimped a bit on this part of the TV during the manufacturing phase, as it’s not used very frequently.
So your options for fixing it would be to kick the digital to analogue conversion further down the signal chain. Most TV’s have an optical output. You could output from the TV through optical, and then use an optical to analogue RCA conversion box like this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KNNSKV0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_l5fnFbQM5NB33 to convert the signal to analogue.
That does mean then that you’re relying on a ~$20 box to do the digital to analogue conversion of all of the audio you listen to, so the quality or accuracy wouldn’t be as good as something higher-end, but it might do in a pinch for now.
Anyone seeking to create monster sounds, robot sounds and similar can try our beta 14-voice real-time voice changer apps on Android.
With some voice acting, one can make a good impression of Venom, Batman, Bane, Darth, Kylo, Stormtrooper, C3PO, CaptPhasma. In addition, each voice is customizable, so you can create new variations on those voices - for example with the Venom sounds, you can make a lion roaring type of sound.
Apps are similar, but the cosplay app has a Help - Cosplay section, while the gaming app has a Help - Gaming section which gives much more detail on AUX and Y-splitter cables for connecting for Gaming/Phone Calls/voice chat (connecting to headset ports etc.).
I want to create some simple screen recorded videos and either record audio in real time as I demonstrate what I am showing or after the screen recordings are made. I plan to use a Micport Pro and a Countryman headset. I have never done anything like this before and some of the recordings will be made while I am recording videos in a classroom environment with possible background noise. I will be recording directly into the ScreenFlow screen recording program.
- Any general advice anyone can provide for getting good sounding audio based on my plans? G=How far should the bendable boom mic be from my mouth? The mic does have a windscreen filter on it.
- Anyone have any thoughts on the quality of audio the Micport Pro will result in vs. just plugging a mic into the computer and recording?
Thanks.
That's what your mic interfaces with. It "amplifies" the sound by delivering more power to the microphone. I had this problem, so I invested in a Scarlett Solo. That's an interface with a built-in preamp.
I don't know too much about this stuff myself, so I might be corrected in the near future. That's my understanding of this stuff though. Anything you use to connect to your mic will affect its sound. That's why a lot of people get USB mics that are plug-and-play instead of XLR mics who's sound is dependent on the quality of both the Mic itself, the Pre-amp, and often the recording environment.
What microphone are you using?
If that means it will only pay attention to the 'left' signal, then yes. However, if it sums the two inputs together, you wouldn't record anything at all.
A better solution may be to get a proper adapter cable that is designed to take two XLR balanced signals and combine them in stereo to one unbalanced TRS connection. You wouldn't need the 'right' channel, obviously, during mono voiceover recordings, but you'd have the option in the future if you are trying to capture a stereo source. Here's a link to an example: https://www.amazon.com/HOSA-RT-ANGLE-3-5-LENGTH/dp/B000068O5K/ref=sr_1_fkmr2_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1506093409&sr=8-1-fkmr2&keywords=2+xlr-f+to+1%2F8%22+trs
Either way, it does make more sense to record a voiceover in mono, but just make sure that if you're doing it with your current adapter you consider the two scenarios at the beginning.
here's a 382 page book that will tell you everything you need to know.
I hate to sound like a dick, but I'm slightly offended by this post.
Richard Rogers and Jerry Goldenstein are classics that stand out in my mind for production and arrangement.
This is a good book about scoring: https://www.amazon.com/Complete-Guide-Film-Scoring-Business/dp/0876391099/ref=sr_1_2?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1470492933&sr=1-2&keywords=film+scoring
You definitely want a condenser mic like repelican said. this is an example of a solution that might work well for you.
Hmm. The process can be long. Here's a book I'd recommend reading.
http://www.amazon.com/Dialogue-Editing-Motion-Pictures-Invisible/dp/0240809181
However in short, here is how I work my post projects.
Collect deposit OMF Import Track organization Track consolidation Dialog cleaning ADR recordings Easy / rough SFX placement Music overlay Review / fix sound edit Mix 1 Mix 2 Review/fix Export preview and send Get approval or notes for revision Export deliverables Collect final payment Send deliverables
The q502usb is tiny bro.. http://www.amazon.com/Behringer-Q502USB-5-Channel-Mixer/dp/B00CTKI10A/ref=sr_1_1?s=musical-instruments&ie=UTF8&qid=1438370930&sr=1-1&keywords=q502usb
I mean, I guess it could be smaller, but im not exactly sure how. I guess you could get the 302USB, but I have no idea what the functionality is like: http://www.amazon.com/Behringer-302USB-BEHRINGER-XENYX/dp/B005EHILV4/ref=sr_1_5?s=musical-instruments&ie=UTF8&qid=1438373279&sr=1-5&keywords=usb+input+mixer&refinements=p_89%3ABehringer
Anything else is like walking with a pebble in your shoes.
ok, so lets say i buy this and plug them into my headphones.
then i buy an amp such as this and plug headphones into it.
And lets say i have a handy dandy oscilloscope sitting around.
what sorts of waveforms will i see at various points in the signal path?
EDIT: also, i thought that with a "balanced headphone", you put a positive signal on one line and a negative on the other, and the difference between those 2 signals is what causes the transducer to move back and forth.
looks like some "balanced" headphone amps transmit the + and - signals up to the point where the transducer splits, then it simply passes the ground and + signal after that.
however, looks like others will actually put the positive and inverted signal on the wire? i dunno, im getting confused. but i took computer engineering in college so i have a basic understanding/interest in electronics, which is why im trying to understand the theory and possibly misconceptions about this.
Not sure if this actually falls under Audio Post. If this doesn't, my apologies. Would appreciate if I'm pointed to the right subreddit.
I'm looking for a recording software that saves the last x minutes separately while continuing a live record.
The x can either be preset or configurable. When I give the command, the last x minutes are saved to a separate file while continuing to record the live audio. I found an Android app, Snipback, that does what I want, but I'm looking for something for Windows 10.
I've only used Audacity as a DAW and it doesn't have this feature, and so my search begins...
Thanks