I got it on Amazon, but I’m in the car right now so I can’t link. I’ll do it later.
HYYKJ-US 25pcs Bicycle Bottom Bracket Hub Bike BB Axis Bearing Removal Installation Press Repair Tool Kit Aluminum Alloy 7075 CNC https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07Y8M9FGN/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_TZYX9TK7VT6TQYAZ7GFR?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Have you tried Knipex pliers? They’re pretty awesome, they’re built similar to many brands self adjusting pliers but they have completely parallel smooth jaws so in use they replace an adjustable wrench and are easily used with one hand I love them they’re just a little bit more difficult to ratchet until you get the hang of it because they work more like pliers https://www.amazon.com/KNIPEX-Tools-86-01-250/dp/B07YLFLSJW?ref_=ast_sto_dp&th=1&psc=1
They're not only better for JIS derailleur screws, they're better for all Phillips screws around the house too. I haven't touched a Philips screwdriver since I got a Vessel driver with 6 bits. It's got 5 different star shaped sizes and 1 flat head.
I don't work in a bike shop, but I am in manufacturing and on concrete floors a lot. I'm wearing Keen PTC slip-ons. They're all day comfortable and have held up quite well.
But wear the shoes you like. If it's Crocs, so be it. As for the haters, rain on 'em.
Here you go. Link to Amazon. There isn’t a 7 or 9mm in it, but that’s just fine as I almost never need those.
WANBY 11 Inch Articulating Friction Magic Arm Adjustable w/Hot Shoe Mount 1/4'' Tripod Screw for Camera Rig, LCD Monitor, LED Flash Lights (11'Arm) https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B083JCCDGR/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_VGSQWVSFPCG71AYE1714?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I'd also love to know if any of you have seen one of these beauties in the wild. 41 lbs!
https://www.amazon.com/Eurobike-Bikes-HYXC550-Wheels-Bicycle/dp/B08BHWZL45
I picked these up not too long along. Definitely cheaper options out there but I paid a little more mainly for the case :)
Neiko 01407A Electronic Digital Caliper Stainless Steel Body with Large LCD Screen | 0 - 6 Inches | Inch/Fractions/Millimeter Conversion,Silver/Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000GSLKIW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_Y1lkFbKFY3QXQ
Vessel on Amazon or eBay. They really aren't very expensive. I have a JIS#1 & JIS#2. You will be wishing you bought them sooner!
https://www.amazon.com/Vessel-Ball-Grip-Screwdriver-220-1-75/dp/B000TGF4K6?ref_=fsclp_pl_dp_12
Here's the US Amazon listing. Looks pretty complete for hubs and BBs but you'll want a separate set for headsets?
Oh yeah, I forgot: A ball anvil micrometer is nice for measuring disc rotors. It can measure into the center of the rotor where is wears fastest/most.
I have an imperial/inch version: https://www.amazon.com/Anytime-Tools-Micrometer-Carbide-Cylinder/dp/B01529KKNA
But, you can get a nice digital one with a metric read out for a bit more: https://www.amazon.com/Fowler-54-860-211-1-Electronic-Anvil-Spindle/dp/B079RJRYWC
Been trying to get my local library branches to put in repair stations as they are all on bike or multiuse paths. i.e. https://www.amazon.com/Park-Tool-Trailhead-Public-Workstation/dp/B0775246M9/
Birchwood Casey Touch-Up Aluminum Black is like witchcraft. It's not paint. It anodizes the aluminum. Several youtube videos out there. Works great.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002IY5E7U?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details
Either have to replace the crank or arm or retread it with this
For general home use I have a 5 gallon Harbor freight special. To pump tubeless I use a purpose use bike tire inflator. The compressor is compact enough I use it for air nailers and impact wrenches when working on things with motors. But it's a little small for heavy automotive/construction use.
I have this PB Swiss set and a plastic (I think Rockshox) double ended pick for suspension service.
And of course as many sharpened bent spokes (and wiper inserts) as you could want. I've even stripped a single strand out of shift housing for some jobs.
Utility picks. I have this set. Until you have them, you don't realize how often you reach for a pen to do the job of a pick. I think I use these at least as often as my hex wrenches.
You can't use the amazon app's link sharing on Reddit: Reddit automatically removes comments with link shorteners. One of the reasons they do that is that you can hide extra info in there. Your URL expands to approximately www dot amazon com/dp/B07DN7ZMLS/ref=cm_sw_r_apa_i_CW0C15SRQRFW3K27M0GN_2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1 That ref code can be used to give a kickback to a spammer. You should provide the link as just https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DN7ZMLS
Don't edit your comment: make a new one, if you want it to appear. Once it's removed, it won't automatically reappear.
You can't use the amazon app's link sharing on Reddit: Reddit automatically removes comments with link shorteners. One of the reasons they do that is that you can hide extra info in there. Your URL expands to approximately www dot amazon com/dp/B09Z2C8QVH/ref=cm_sw_r_api_i_1MJ78K51F0B9KFCHRA64_0 That ref code can be used to give a kickback to a spammer. You should provide the link as just https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09Z2C8QVH
Sorry if this is a stupid question. But when you say wedge, do you mean rack mount adapter?
I ask because the mount adapter on my giant contend slipped while I was cycling today and a little worried it’s going to keep happening. When you talk about carbon paste is this the same thing?
Same here. I bought one a month or two ago. Before that I was using a CycloSpirit Derailleur Hanger Alignment Gauge which I was using for years. The CycloSpirit is a clone of the Park Tool DAG-2 but there is a little bit of slop in the 90 degree pivot and that little bit does make a difference in a 1x12. There is zero slop in the Abbey and it's soooo much easier and faster to use.
Thanks! I know these are super basic questions, but it's a case of I don't know what I don't know, so I appreciate the feedback.
I'll look up chain clean and lube - I think I had been thinking about doing it every 6 months to a year because I live in a dry climate and don't bike in the wet, but it's helpful to understand it a little better. Is something like that what you're talking about? https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000BS02K4/
My front derailer also feels a bit odd, in that it's hard for me to shift into my top gear unless I'm absolutely bombing in 1-7 or 1-8, but that might be me being a beginner and not having enough cadence sort of deal.
I have one of these in my car at all times.
Additionally, I have a floor pump, 6" adjustable, and tire levers.
The Wera set is incredibly helpful with a 23 year old car, so it's not just for bikes.
Not a narrative but here's a 1898 how-to book on setting up and running a bike repair business Free to read online or download a pdf from google books. Some amazing stuff in there. It starts with a list of essential tools that will cost you $99.90 ($3367 in 2022 dollars). At the top are the three essential hammers/mallets you need: Hide faced, lead faced and lignum vitae, a very dense wood from the Caribbean. The most expensive item on the list is a $12 portable forge ($400 in 2022 dollars), but they note that that might not be essential.
Also, not at all what you are looking for, but there was a bicycle story from 1919 read over several episodes of the Bicycle Karma Podcast (episodes 46-52) that was an advertisement for coaster brakes in the form of a novel about how Billy transformed from a pathetic little sickly boy into a great man, successful in all ways and loved by everyone, all as a result of his coaster-brake equipped bicycle. The podcast includes bonus snarky commentary, but if you want the book, it looks like there's a used copy available for $35.
For cheap stuff, here in the UK can't go wrong with Clarks gear cable - at £20 for a 30m box, it's hard to beat the price! Similar price for brake cable too. I've used both of these and they are good - the gear outer is lined and, if not quite as good as Shimano SP41, is certainly fine for many uses. Dunno if available in the US though.
For inner wire, I'm afraid that I only use Shimano's stainless wires as they are the only thing that really survives crappy UK weather and road conditions. Not cheap, but anything else is false economy over here.
Here is the cheapest one I could recomend Bike stand
Oh for sure, almost every tool I listed is so much better with a quality version. For the weekend warrior changing his pedals every 2 years (and hopefully not installed by a kid at Walmart making $8/hour), something like this would work perfectly okay. It's no PW-4 but should have enough leverage to get a pedal off without hurting yourself.
Powerbuilt 640927 1/4-Inch and... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004QO9LV0?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
These are a cheep power build ratchet set from amazon. I have been using them daily in the shop since 2020 and they have served me very well for the price. New shop i work at has supplied some snap on 1/4, but i still am happy to use these.
It is a Tie Rod End Remover. I bought a cheap one at Auto Zone, but there are ones that have better clearance.
I have had a GT project in my shop for months, and finally removed it with a $12 tool! It worked perfectly.
Full Speed Ahead FSA RPM 7420ST JIS Square Taper Cartridge Bicycle Bottom Bracket (JIS 68x113mm M8 Bolts) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003L9CDFW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_ZEK7N8J2TA6XT1PR2MPG?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
This is a direct replacement.
There's an 80x142 on Amazon. I don't know how much clearance you have on the crank arms, but that might work.
I've had two of the Boa branded strap wrenches for 20 years. They have a special fibre reinforced strap that flares at the base, which holds it into the plastic body, so no pin to break or tear out.
I've used two sizes, but not super regularly, maybe two or three times a year, when no other tool will work.
I have roto ratchets from Wera, S-K, Snap-On, Kobalt, and Harbor Fraught.
The S-K (3/8) gets the most use, followed by Snap-off (1/4) Both are absolutely fantastic tools, and I’ll recommend them to anyone.
The Wera (3/8) lives in a car kit. It’s great, and has some neat quality of life features, but I find myself getting annoyed at the indexing head. If you don’t mind an indexed head, go for it!
The Kobalt is ok. It’s a 1/2 drive, and only sees occasional use. It was cheap, and has been a solid performer. It’s very heavy.
I don’t like the HF. It was an impulse buy, and it just doesn’t feel quite right.
Gearwrench makes a 2pc set, based on my experience with their other ratchets, I wouldn’t hesitate to try it out: https://www.homedepot.com/p/GEARWRENCH-1-4-in-and-3-8-in-Drive-72-Tooth-Cushion-Grip-Roto-Ratchet-Set-2-Piece-81223/204618487
For what it’s worth, when I was a bike mechanic my bondhus hex wrenches, 1/4 snap on roto, and CDI Torque screwdriver were my best non-blue friends (https://www.amazon.com/Products-TorqControl-TLA28NM-Screwdriver-Magnetic/dp/B01DIRD5CG).
Tyre mounting lubricant, then mount and dry inflate. If all good, then inject sealant through the valve.
I use the Rema Tip Top lube, but there are multitudes of brands, it's used in automotive tyre mounting, so cheap in bulk.
It calls out 6cc of Mobil SHC 627 for the air spring side. Nothing for the damper side except soaking the sponges in oil. Has anyone had luck finding somewhere to buy this that isn't a 5Gal+ container? I could only find it in a reasonable size on a CNC manufacturer's website: https://parts.haascnc.com/haasparts/en/USD/Find-Replacement-Parts/Consumables-%28Grease%2C-Oil%2C-Paint%2C-Sealants-%29/OIL%2C-REFILL-MOBIL-SHC-627---1-QT-0-94-L/p/93-2365 I also found something that claims to be similar on Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/Lube-V-Synthetic-Bearing-Compare-as-Mobil/dp/B07H224BN7
For future reference, you can create your own CAD designs via Autodesk Tinkercad and then convert to a CNC via FreeCad. The test CAD design for this project is available here - click "view in 3d". If you plan on using this design, I would suggest verifying the dimensions before actually trying to produce it. Try it at your own risk; I am not making any claims as to the fit, function, durability, or safety of said part, and accept no responsibility for anything that results. I have not run a test model (due to cost) so I have not verified that the diagram is based on working dimensions, but rather is only a test concept for initial quotes.
It's spendy, but the Irwin Hanson 11135zr set is everything you will ever need. I use the hell out of my set and have a near 100% success rate*.
*the one failure was another tech didn't realize they were left hand bits, so snapped one off trying to force it to drill.
/u/yamancool63 is correct, just as an extra bit though Park Tool FR1.3 (or similar) works best for these because the hole on the back of the tool fits the axle and the splines are deeper than versions like: https://www.amazon.com/CFIKTE-Freewheel-Remover-Lockring-Shimano/dp/B0718XPC51/
“Bike hand” brand re branded. By heaps of companies. They were 100$ aud before covid. I’ve used mine every day for 3 years can’t fault it
Just recently replaced it with a superb professional stand which has a 24kg solid steel plate base.
The lack of stability of the tripod stands is there main detraction. Gotta be careful not to unbalance it especially with a wheel off
Impossible ti say the 500$ superb is 400$ better but it has absolutely every conceivable option and adjustment indexing anyone could want
Edit - Cycle Pro Mechanic Bicycle Repair... https://www.amazon.com.au/dp/B00D9B7OKQ?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Like I said they are rebranded by oooooooodles of companies. Super duper value and the best option under 500$ in my opinion
Edit again- I’m a moron and didn’t notice truing stand. I’ll leave the comment cause it might help someone
I like to buy once cry once I spent the bucks for a park ts 2.2. I love building wheels, end up making more then a handful a year. Ztto digital spoke tensiometer are only 60$ from AliExpress these days and combined with a home made calibration jig parts about 100$ . A deadly combo -
https://reddit.com/r/BikeMechanics/comments/p6izlp/_/h9mg3h4/?context=1
Having no slack in the housing might be causing some sharp bends.
I'd strongly recommend buying a cable 'kit' like this one: https://www.amazon.com/Shimano-Optislick-Derailleur-Cable-Housing/dp/B0197LWW9E/ref=sr_1_7?dchild=1&keywords=shimano+shift+cable&qid=1631567230&s=sporting-goods&sr=1-7
The "Optislick" refers to that green coating on the cable that is slicker than the old PTFE (from 10spd days) but wayy more durable than the newer "Poly" coating (Dura Ace, XTR, Ultegra) that frays off.
It also comes with excellent housing and fresh ferrules.
Maybe I’m not being clear.
I’m talking about something like this
Something like this but with some controllable pivot points to help run cables and housings through bike frames.
Tekton has one in 3/8" drive for $10 https://smile.amazon.com/TEKTON-Drive-Crowfoot-Wrench-WCF14008/dp/B08QTWFV9P
Proto has one in 1/4" drive for $20 https://smile.amazon.com/Proto-Metric-Crowfoot-Wrench-J4708MCF/dp/B003NSC7XO
I have some soft jaws from Amazon that work well for low force needs. When I really need to clamp down and torque hard I use wood blocks. A balancing act to get them into place sometimes but once you're there they hold very well.
There are products like this for $100 that attach to the bike to tow it behind you, with or without a kid on it.
But cheaper is to put a simple rack on the back of your bike attach the kids bike to it somehow. If it's really small, lay it across flat and strap it on. This discussion has a picture of tying the front wheel of the kid's bike to the side of the rack, and letting the rear roll on the ground behind.
I used the removeable expanded metal sides of a garden cart on mine, similar to these: https://www.amazon.com/Gorilla-Carts-GOR1001-COM-Heavy-Duty-Removable/dp/B01BECQEA2
They're longer than the trailer, so they add quite a bit of extra room for bulky items and are very convenient to attach elastic cords to. Expanded metal is pretty common, you can probably find some being scrapped.
The total width for an 11 speed ROAD freehub body will be 36.75mm, while the width of an 11 speed MTB freehub body will be 34.95mm. If you are attempting to place an 11-40 cassette onto a road freehub body you will need a 1.8mm spacer to put onto the freehub body before installing the cassette.
I presume this is why you're asking this. If you're looking for a spacer because you lost it, you can buy them on amazon
> headset Do you think these would fit my bike?
https://www.gevenalle.com/product/audax/
You Will need the short pull without shifters, you will move your shifters onto the new levers. you will also need new cables, shift housing to go from the shifters on the handlebars to these cable stops https://www.amazon.com/SHIMANO-Housing-Stop-Down-Tube/dp/B001JH9KUY/ref=asc_df_B001JH9KUY/ which will mount where the shifters are now
https://www.amazon.se/Shimano-CASSETTE-CS-HG500-SPEED-11-32/dp/B00WLFTGQQ/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?dchild=1&keywords=10+speed+casette&qid=1621994243&sprefix=10+sp&sr=8-1 https://www.amazon.se/SRAM-PC1031-Cykelkedja-PowerLock-Metallisk/dp/B003VFFT1G/ref=mp_s_a_1_9?dchild=1&keywords=10+speed+chain&qid=1621994322&sr=8-9
548 kr
If this is for 'event' service - meaning, all the problems will be on the same, day, you should increase the amount of hose you have onhand since a single kit will only do one brake.
I think it's *okay* to only have BH90 onhand for the Shimano side to reduce the number of unique things you have. It will make the lever feel different on brakes that spec BH59 (not sure there are any in production anymore?), but it won't stop anything from working.
You should also have a nice routing kit such as the Park IR-1.2 AND an additional magnet-on-a-stick (like this) for when the little handheld magnet isn't enough to get the end of the routing cable around a bend or down a tube out of reach.
I use this for cranks, bottom brackets and cassette lock rings. It can measure torque in both directions and has a wide enough range that you shouldn't be operating at the extremes of it's capability. I have a 1/2" version as well and both wrenches come with a calibration sheet showing how they performed. I've been really happy with them.
This is great with aluminum steerers
https://www.amazon.co.uk/VAR-Freewheel-Remover-Maillard-Freewheels/dp/B004YJ3F00#
They were in stock when I sent you the reply, I've just checked again and it's out of stock. Use the link to contact the supplier they might be able to help you out
>https://www.amazon.com/dp/B081K8WFTF/?coliid=I195P0N7STW8XP&colid=20QRI2CJP7EWH&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it&th=1 <---- Knipex adjustable wrench. I hear this thing is excellent at avoiding "rounding nuts" and super intuitive to use in your hand. I have seen some bike mechanics use this (I just started a job last week as a bike repair apprentice) . Anyone know of thes KNIPEX Wrenches for bike mechanics? Seems like this would be a slam dunk for a lot of simple bike repairs & adjustments. (Plus save the time looking for the correct metric/standard wrench when you only need it to break someone loose for a moment)
Hey, just noticed, weeks later, that your comment got stuck in the spam filter because of the spammy affiliate link stuff at the end of the Amazon URL. So nobody saw it. You can see how I fixed it.
Yes, those are great tools. Not all that much use on bikes, as most is allen sockets, but definitely a good, if expensive, addition to the kit.
If you have largish slip joint pliers, the flat spot right next to the hinge is a good shear for spokes. It's the same action as cable cutters.
For me it would probably be my bike stand. I bought a Bikehand Bike Repair Stand due to all the great reviews on Amazon. The bike stand is definitely not a piece of junk, but the mechanism that allows for rotation is just plastic teeth that are clamped together (which you can see in the Amazon photos with the picture that says 360 deg). When you're working on the bike and putting any kind of (even light) torque on the frame those plastic teeth make a lot of noises from the stress. It's only a matter of time until they give out. If I had to do it over again I would have just bitten the bullet and gotten a Park Tool stand. It's a shame because otherwise the stand is an amazing value. I've got a mix of Park Tool and other expensive brands as well as cheap tools (Harbor Freight). So far I haven't had to re-buy anything.
I found the 39t here: 39t Shimano chainring
And the 53 I got on eBay, NOS. It was the only one. Something like this will work: 105 53t
I got this https://www.amazon.com/CXWXC-Mechanic-Maintenance-Aluminum-Adjustable/dp/B07BMN8BM3
And it was decent.
The link you tried to post, with the affiliate code stuff stripped, so it won't get spam filtered. Like your comment did: https://www.amazon.com/Prestacycle-Right-Angle-Quick-Click2-Presta/dp/B00UP1GBR0/
Yup. I fixed it for you in my repost of the link.
New link that I provided:
https://www.amazon.com/Lifetime-4428-Adjustable-Folding-Utility/dp/B003YJPC2A/
Link that you provided had that followed by:
ref=sxin_7?ascsubtag=amzn1.osa.1e9760e0-dfe7-4418-a1b1-c015ee627af1.ATVPDKIKX0DER.en_US&creativeASIN=B003YJPC2A&cv_ct_cx=folding+table&cv_ct_id=amzn1.osa.1e9760e0-dfe7-4418-a1b1-c015ee627af1.ATVPDKIKX0DER.en_US&cv_ct_pg=search&cv_ct_wn=osp-single-source&dchild=1&keywords=folding+table&linkCode=oas&pd_rd_i=B003YJPC2A&pd_rd_r=6d404f92-859b-4ba1-a5a4-3e8f727e9e71&pd_rd_w=szAbU&pd_rd_wg=IF3L1&pf_rd_p=7f9a42bd-c050-43e5-9e70-deb13f53640d&pf_rd_r=TYA8RKAMJXRMTYME8150&qid=1598399210&sr=1-1-72d6bf18-a4db-4490-a794-9cd9552ac58d&tag=aimassociatesce-20
I don't know what all of that is, but Reddit does, and filtered it out, which usually means some of that stuff is the affiliate link. The rest is probably your Amazon purchase history, home address, etc. (just kidding on that).
Dunno, I have a $20 set from Amazon and the battery lasts about a year, I think, with light to moderate use. The brand is NEIKO and it came in a nice grey clamshell case, and does both decimal and fractional inches in addition to metric.
I previously had a slightly cheaper one that killed batteries faster and tended to lose calibration when it was shut off, whereas this one almost always wakes up dead-nuts accurate.
I’m pretty sure this is it:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000GSLKIW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_SHsdFb3KAK6EF
My initial test with normal twist drills was definitely not representative, as the fastener went from usable to not, instantly, as I only have 0.5 mm steps in bits).
The next tests I made the damage with a 3mm carbide tipped bit (designed for reinforced concrete) by rolling it around in the socket head of the fastener, just removing a little material each time. This way I could chew up the head to be very similar to a damaged fastener (although probably not exactly the same). After each little round I would check that I was still able to get bite with the normal hex tools and the twisted tool. All three stopped working at the same amount of removed material.
I quite enjoy his videos and had actually watched this one, unfortunately I only had a set of cheap Amazon extractors to try and the Alden brand is a little expensive in Germany, may have to wait until my wife is in the US again and have her pick some up.
You may have to stop sending me tool links, my wife might find out.