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I would craigslist the pyramid and sub you have and add 4 channel amp and underseat sub
bridge channels 3&4 to the subwoofer, power your component set with channel 1&2. You would only use 400w or so from the amp, so big three isn't required.... but it never hurts. Also, the hum from your other amp could be caused by a bad factory ground, so giving them a tuneup might still be called for.
This is nice if you have room for it. 18" with 18mm+ of xmax for under $200.
For a 15 on a budget, prob something like this.
I wouldn't put that much money and time into it for a year. I would just get one of these especially since you won't get the money back when you sell it, but if you must $500 is doable go to crutchfeild.com put your car model in and it will give you everything you need head unit amp speakers etc. You may pay more then say amazon but you will get life time support setting it up, issue etc.
I got the Prime 500x1 and it’s pretty solid. Good sound and the spec sheet say it’s pushing over 600 watts. Seems like a good value for about $130...
Rockford Fosgate R500X1D Prime 1-Channel Class D Amplifier https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BF6HYDE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_NgG3Db1MM47Y2
Headunit.. a decent single din,
speakers... I like the CTSounds Meso 6.5" components in these type of situation. Plenty loud and VERY clean.
amps.. Doors amp- CT sounds AT-60.4 enough power and class AB for SQ. Sub amp CT Sounds AT1400.1- enough for everything.
Sub CT sounds meso series preferebly a 12 or 15..
DSP you will want to run the front in an active setup so you need a dsp. i personally like the MINI DSP https://www.amazon.com/miniDSP-C-DSP-6x8/dp/B0179776IU/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1508355409&sr=8-3&keywords=Mini+dsp you can do all processing in that and simply not use a headunit (tablet maybe)
Lc2 will work if I understand you correctly. If that is the amp&sub you want, you should consider the d4 version of the subwoofer since it does it's best work at a 2 ohm final impedance.
If it were me, and I only had ~500 watts to play with, I would look at the Dayton HO DVC. I would also put it in a sealed box or build my own if I went ported.
You can get away with prefab, but you're leaving performance on the table. I just looked and the Sundown prefab isn't too far away from recommended. Might add some polyfill and call it a day.
The larger the enclosure, the deeper it will play and the less power you will need. For the IDQ, shoot for a box with closer to 1cu ft. Like this one. Add 1 lbs pollyfill and shazam.
At .5cuft, the IDQ has an f3 of 62.5hz and QTC of .94
At 1cuft the f3 is 47.8hz and QTC drops to .72
Much closer to the ideal QTC of .707
On the amp, do you mean the Rockford Fosgate prime 500? It is a nice amp, but you won't get a warranty unless you buy from an authorized retailer. The Pioneer I liked at walmart will, and has more power should you need it one day. Also, you'll need another fuse to install the Rockford Fosgate beyond what comes in a typical amplifier kit.
Oh, and yes, dvc 2 ohm for a one ohm amp.
I've done research on SQ vs SPL for the past few hours, decided that I feel SQ is the route I'd go and supplement that 1 10" with more watts to fit my needs. I found on Imagine Dynamics site, 0.6-1.6 cu is recommended for a sealed enclosure, think this is fine? The Imagine Dynamic 10" has great reviews, I can live with that much space to give away. For the amp I was thinking either the Pioneer Prime 500w or the one you linked, which I feel is the better decision especially over Hifonics I was looking at. So with all this, feel this is fine enough to pull the trigger?
EDIT: Ordered, and decided on IDQ with a 2ohm so i can wire down to 1ohm.
Just a little progress report.
I got it all in and wired up and I gotta say the memphis' sound fantastic. I got a little 6" basstube to stick behind the passenger seat to fill in the lower freqs as well. It's plenty for this application and has decent extension, starting to roll off at 30hz.
I also got a ton of sound deadener for cheap too which I plan to install after exams.
One last question tho. I am having difficulty flattening out the frequency response; having a 1-2dB dip at 220hz and 1kHz, and then a 1-2dB spike at around 100hz. The head unit has a 10 band eq but I am not having much luck flattening out the response. Any tips? You think a car audio shop would do something like that for me?
This box is what I ended up with so luckily I chose one with closer to 1 cu (.90). Also, I picked up the same Pioneer you linked to Walmart but picked up on Amazon. Looking forward to this so much.
You can do Noico for deadener.
Have you listened to the Hertz? that will be the big factor. their quality is great its just the sound you have to worry about. If you are used to OEM system there will definitely be an upgrade.
I haven't given much thought to where I would put the amps. I was thinking about getting a Kenwood KAC-8406 for the drivers in the doors and a Kenwood KAC-9106D for the Idmaxx, but I'm open to suggestions. I'd love for you to put something together!
You need to find out the stock amplifier info as some stock systems have weird ohm ratings. 3-way coaxials are a waste of money. the midrange driver in those is way to small to be of any use. You are better off going 2 way. Better yet would be 2 way components. If the rear speakers are still playable I would leave them in and use the extra budget for better fronts for better sound quality.
Upgrade 1: For me it is never worth it. You get more bang for your buck buying a sub, amp , and box separately.
Upgrade 2: can use Noico deadener not the best but is cheap and will perform better than yoga mat.
Hey, so these were the subs I was looking at getting, the skar amp you linked is what id think of getting with it. Ive been told I probably need to upgrade my alternator or something. Do I?
My car has a lot of trunk space, I'll send a picture once I'm back home, is it really cheaper to build an enclosure rather than buy a good premade one?
the hu you have has an rca preout so all you need is an amp, amp kit, subwoofer and box. this can tun you as little as $300-$400 or as much as a couple of thousand depending on your goals and budget.
For subwoofer i would think a single 10" in a sealed box. if sound quality is what you are after I would look at Fi Q, SSA Gcon (unavailable atm), CSS SDX, and even the Sundown SA. If ou want to go ported the above will work for SQ subs but can also look at Soundqubed HDC, DC Level 3, American Bass TnT, and Incriminator. i would stick to around 500-750 watts ( i know the Fi is higher than that but it is a Badass sub).
for amps i would look at Twisted Sounds, Us Acoustics, NVX, Sundown (bit pricey unless you find them refurb from DB-r or Amplab), Zapco, etc.. there are a million ways to go with amps.
Next is the box. If you have any skills at all and some basic tools you can build your own and save a lot of money. if you go the prefab route i would not recommend buying a ported box as i have not any that are worth damn. you can get away with a sealed prefab as long as it is the correct size and built solid.
Next is the amp kit. i would buy an OFC kit properly fitted to the size of amp you get probably somewhere around 4 awg. something like this will come with what you need:
https://www.amazon.com/KnuKonceptz-Kolossus-Gauge-Amplifier-Installation/dp/B005CIJBKK
last i would recommend you do the big 3:
http://knowledge.sonicelectronix.com/car-audio-and-video/how-to-big-3-upgrade/
So with these subs, where would I go to get a box? And since I'm an idiot, is that price for both subs or just one? And I'm not sure what you mean by, "tuned to the low 30's". Finally, if I'm getting two 750w speakers, doesn't that mean I should go for a 1500w amp?
hahaha wow okay, I'm looking for more of a balanced system, but I do want the bass to be noticeable for sure. My total budget is looking to be around 500-550. that is including buying a box and all the connecting wires. I know people who can help install it so no money there. I play much more dubstep and rap, basically nothing else. This is the box I plan to get.
If you pair that sub with a proper box (like the one i recommended), it will sound better and hit just as hard if not harder than the two you had. You may find that you dont need to buy another amp if its strong enough, but if it isn't then I would go with a RF prime amp. That will be more than sufficient.
Need info on what you want out of a headunit and a budget.
You would be paying quite a bit for an amp that puts out 800W rms @ 4ohms. It would be much cheaper to find one that puts that much out at 1 ohm. The difference between running 800W rms at 1 or 4 ohms has little to do with SQ and more to do with the efficiency at which the amp operates (4 ohms being more efficient).
For simplicity's sake, just get 1 amp that puts out 800W rms @ 1ohm. Having two amps would be better for heat dissipation, but you're not in any SPL competitions so that isn't a huge factor. I am sure others have better budget amps, but since you already have Rockford subs you should go with this amp:
RF r750-1d I have one and it puts out 900W rms on the birth sheet @14.4V. I set the gains to about 800W rms for my T1, and even after running it hard for 1.5 hrs it barely gets warm in the center.
Ok ive decided on going with this setup.
Polk Audio db6501 6-1/2
Rockford Fosgate Punch P300X2
Image Dynamics IDQ12 D4 V.4
Zapco monoblock
Complete 4 Gauge Amplifier Installation Kit
Should I just get the sound deadener at the shop they said they have dynamap? And they would chargefrom $75-$100 for the deadener and install per door so about $200 for that. Or should I get the Knukonceptz Kno Knoise Kolossus and have them install that. Id assume it would be cheaper.
Ill ask the shop to build me a sealed sub box to spec. And they said its going to be $120 for the sub install and $120 for the speaker install.
Also any reason these 2 are cheaper on amazon?
All in all im looking at $1500-$1600 after labor and parts. $450 for installation alone plus another $100-200 for the box. Hopefully this will be a kickass system that will run for a while. My cars only 25k miles so Id hope so.
Anyways thanks man. I appreciate you answering all my questions. Really learned a lot about car audio yet still have a lot to learn.
Well I'm okay with it as long as you recommend it cause you seem very knowledgeable. No one seemed to know anything about the CDT speakers and were recommending me to other speakers or go with 4 infinity references.
They were also recommending me different amps.. One said Kenwood X700-5 - 700W 5-Channel Amplifier https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0075XA71M/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_2LhQvbNSQ7J61 and another said Rockford Fosgate R600X5 Prime 5-Channel Amplifier https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BF6HXA8/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_0NhQvbR9BV4PH
Should I stick with the JBL GTO that you recommended me? I just want to make sure I don't make any mistakes with my set up. I really appreciate all your help! It's hard to make decisions when I'm getting so many opinions.. Especially some of the stores that I asked for quotes told me everything I was recommended was shit lol.
I've used my be three or four of these in my truck, http://www.amazon.com/Stinger-RKX36B-Roadkill-Damping-Material/dp/B001HHP59G
Along with another maybe 8 or so of these, http://www.amazon.com/Stinger-RKO12-Overkill-0-25-Inch-Damping/dp/B001TH8OCE
Looks like a 130 amp alt. I like the ultimax for sql, American Bass tnt 15 for spl. Might save you enough money to get a second battery. The step down in power means the jbl 5 channel is in your wheelhouse, and it is only $195 with coupon code and comes with a 4 gauge ofc wire kit. It wont work well with the ultimax but plays well with the tnt15
Thank you very much for all of your help so far. I appreciate it!
I've never worked on cars before and have no experience working on them. Looking at the videos, the first one seems impossible for me. I don't have those tools nor do I have any experience with them. The second video didn't seem so bad. I'm going to ask around and find prices, and if its too expensive, I'll try to do it myself with a friend of mine.
/u/lpbman recommended http://www.amazon.com/Noico-Self-adhesive-Deadening-Automotive-Insulation/dp/B00URUIKAK/ref=cm_cr_pr_product_top?ie=UTF8 to me. I'm not sure if I'm suppose to install it inside and cover the holes, or just cover the holes with the material. Do you know what I should do?
I'm pretty new to the world of custom car installs, but I have been looking into doing this. Problem is that I am not sure how to get the power working for both charging the tablet with the step down regulator as well as getting an EQ powered. I currently have a sub and an amp set up, so, as far as I know, I need to use an EQ to spread the signals for the speakers as well as the subwoofer.
This seems to be the popular EQ that everyone likes. Any idea on how I would get it working as well as the tablet charging?
Oh yeah, I forgot about the amp. Would I need one before getting a sub?
I was thinking buying everything in steps with the headunit, then the component speakers, then sub w/ amp. Budget would probably be around 1000-1200 overall.
I've looked around a bit and found this headunit: http://www.amazon.com/JVC-KDX320BTS-KD-X320BTS/dp/B00R5WGT2E (how do you decide on one other than features?)
I got the head unit and I replaced the front 6x9's but they are lower wattage, im still looking for an amp/sub/eq. thanks for responding! I had lost hope haha
I ended up getting the AVH-4100NEX head unit, and I got some Rockford Fosgate 6x9's for the front. they are 65w but have no bass, but they sound pretty clear. I was also thinking of putting in some 3.5" speakers in the very front (from my research, they will fit). otherwise, the rest im interested in.
Oh yeah, I forgot about the amp. Would I need one before getting a sub?
I was thinking buying everything in steps with the headunit, then the component speakers, then sub w/ amp. Budget would probably be around 1000-1200 overall.
I've looked around a bit and found this headunit: http://www.amazon.com/JVC-KDX320BTS-KD-X320BTS/dp/B00R5WGT2E (how do you decide on one other than features?)
Just put a relatively low offer in on it, so we'll see. What size box and should I go ported/closed? I listen to rap, trap, EDM, but also some rock and other things. Want to feel the wobble on the track I posted above.
UPDATED: Forums say 1 cubic foot sealed box for best SQ. Would something like this be reasonable: http://www.amazon.com/Subwoofer-Enclosure-Belva-12-inch-airspace/dp/B0089NLY0K/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1429635446&sr=8-2&keywords=1+ft+sealed+box
Thank you I could do 400 for both, Im looking at these Sound Qubed's any opinion on these?
I also have some Infinity refrence tweeters laying around that I would like to do something with. Unfortunately my Jeep Patriot come with 4 6x9's and no place for a tweet what is your thoughts on putting them in my two front doors?
Yeah I thought that amp seemed a little low for this sub. It's rated at 750 RMS. Would this sub sound better wired down to 2ohm than 1 ohm because I was looking at this amp Rockford Fosgate Prime 750 Watt Class D 1 channel Amplifier https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004T166L8/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_BBd5ub11KXKKZ