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They just came today actually, they are ceramic and I love them. They came with so many that I put a bunch in my grow tank as well. Amazon:
Underwater Galleries AUG6701 15-Pack Cichlid Stone https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00A8G41BK/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_api_glt_fabc_V2WA4W13Q18VFWMDQ467?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I’ve used this one for awhile. Maybe not perfect but I trust it for a long trip
Automatic Fish Feeder, WiFi Remote Control or Auto Fish Food Timer Feeder for Aquarium Fish Tank - USB Powered https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07FVK7MYY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_D8FPW4GH7CKMYBBT4Y2B?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Dark Silvefr Flat Rock/HD Stone Aquarium Background 21" x 48" / 55 Gallon/Rocky Fish Tank Background https://www.amazon.com/dp/B014HJV3Z0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_0YJ9WC28CCR05MM6BRNP I found it on Amazon a few different sellers have it
Ok so that Nu-Clear filter appears to be a canister filter. It’s not a brand I am familiar with so I can’t say if it’s any good or not.
For a tank that size I would recommend something like a Fluval FX4 or even better FX6. They aren’t cheap but it’s a big tank so everything costs more. You won’t need additional plumbing because the FX and pretty much every canister filter comes with hoses for the intake and output. There are plenty of unboxing and setup videos on YouTube so you can see what I’m talking about.
Two filters are better than one because you get increased flow (that is a long tank!) and it allows you to clean the filters on offset schedules. This provides some extra protection because if you accidentally kill all of the beneficial bacteria while cleaning the filter you still have established colonies in the other filter.
If you’re concerned about heat/power issues you should look into an Inkbird controller. It is a wifi device which at a minimum it will alert you if you have a temperature issue. I’m not sure if it alerts you when it goes offline (power issue).
https://www.amazon.com/Inkbird-Temperature-Controller-Thermostat-120V-1200W/dp/B07X1JT372
Well thanks! I do want to be proactive so they can be happier and healthier.
On my comment above, the filter down low is similar if not the same as this. https://www.amazon.com/Nu-Clear-522-Canister-Filter-Mechanical/dp/B001EHJOF0 ... there should be a pic of the canister in the second pic I posted (unless you mean for me to take the canister out)
We have someone do a clean and water change every two weeks. I ordered an API nitrate test kit that arrived today and checked the water, looks like its maxed out on the color chart :(
Last water change was done last Thursday.
Hey Rory,
Yes I understand the basics of the nitrogen cycle. I wouldn't know the filter was missing anything because, well...I wouldn't know. From all the visits from our old keeper and new keeper I don't think I've seen them replace it.
Water does flow from both return nozzles. There's a big filter down low that's very similar if not the same as this.
https://www.amazon.com/Nu-Clear-522-Canister-Filter-Mechanical/dp/B001EHJOF0
Again, the owner is very peculiar about having BRP's. I understand the different opinions on them (man made). The fish is not my call, I'd just like them to have a better environment to thrive in as we've had a few pass. (Heat wave / power outage over a long weekend in September). The lights are on a timer as well.
To add a bit on what I’m considering - the best option I can find is a smd5730 led strip, at about 6500K and ip65, something like this(though the up rating is not what I need). Probably a total of 4m (2 stretches from end to end mounted on the tank’s lid) would yield about the same amount of light, about 10000 lumens, if of course I’m not mistaken in the specs of the Sylvania lighting sources and the LED’s specs. Not sure if I should go with 6m or it would be an overkill.
Also not sure if I need RGB strips. 6500K should be ideal for the fish and any plants that have not eaten yet.
You may want to change the food you feed them. Mbuna are vegetarians and won’t do well in general meat-based cichilid food.
Try spirulina flakes and vegetables. https://www.amazon.com/Zoo-Med-Spirulina-Flake-4-Ounce/dp/B003I5QRDS/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?crid=2JPHNC409X5J0&keywords=spirulina+flake&qid=1662231373&sprefix=spirulina+flak%2Caps%2C183&sr=8-3
Everyone starts somewhere. For best health, you're going to want to keep them separate and treat the water of the brichardi with something like this:
Kribs will be very happy in rainwater, but any cichlids from Tanganyika are going to prefer a different chemistry. What size tank do you have?
I would like to take the opportunity to share that I am working on a mobile App to help people when going for fish shopping or planning on building a new fish tank. My app is free and has no ads. A compatibility feature will be added soon. Everyday I add new fish to the catalogue. I hope it can help!
https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.silvaapps.fishkeepingguide
I have two fx6s and a powerful wavemaker, but I think the most helpful thing is these pads , I change them every couple weeks and keep them on the top tray for ease.
I just got some Hikari African Cichlid Excel. I’m also using new life spectrum sinking pellets.
Hikari 8.8-Ounce Cichlid Excel Floating Pellets for Pets, Mini https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004LO7MYS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_BCAN51VCRJBFT4YFVEQZ?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Best kind of site breaker for cichlids is the gasp….fake plant.
The ones that are pretty wide and go from bottom to top. Like this. Lantian Grass Cluster Aquarium Décor Plastic Plants Extra Large 23 Inches Tall, Green https://www.amazon.com/dp/B077CSSSW9/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_744BNCHVSTCT70QFVWPR
Works better then any rock placement. I use them for a couple weeks take them out and peaceful tank.
I bought a bunch of these for my 125g. I think it looks great and I created a bunch of caves for my Saulosi and Acei. I have a picture I can message you if you want to see. I also painted the back of my tank black.
Bought 2 sets of these and made 3 stacks using hydraulic cement to attach them together. Love our solid blue background and Carib sea natural sand
Trademark Innovations Aquarium Ceramic Hideout Habitat for Fish, and Reptiles - Set of 8 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0759RRKGB/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_PK6T190DNACRGQGVPCZY
My LFS (both chain & independent) don't usually stock it, I've had to order online.
Looked on Amazon & don't see the Tetra product (it has been a few years since I used it, possibly discontinued) but Brightwell Aquatics & Kent Marine make the same thing. It's a little more expensive, but I recommend the Brightwell product.
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B001LUO0IQ/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_WCXXZAD87TZY96EFV184.
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B0002ARH9K/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_G1W5D5V8XRV9K5W10TWB
I have owned that light. It makes light but I would HIGHLY recommend this this light instead.
It is very sturdy, better light, and if you ever want to grow plants with it you won’t need a new light. It’s basically the cheapest light that can simulate the sun. It has a night mode and you can add a timer/dimmer too.
I have a 55g and did the 5g bucket changes for 20yrs. Then I got this and it’s downright easy now. A lot cheaper than the python and you don’t have to run water when siphoning.
I'm bad at checking stuff so I didn't see you responded. This might be helpful just to check on things since they're super cheap and relatively reliable, but probably not necessary if you wanna just ignore this.
4 Pack Mini Digital Electronic Thermometer Hygrometer, Indoor Thermometer, Hygrometer LCD Display Fahrenheit (Fahrenheit), Suitable for humidifiers, greenhouses, Gardens, basements https://www.amazon.com/dp/B088D2TDWH/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_i_WDMMBABMQZ8JQDPFC3WX?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
It’s chlorinated, and can harm them…yea safe is the powder form…it’s great. I overdose to keep them safe.
This is the pump i use VIVOSUN 800GPH Submersible... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07L54HB83?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
That would be a sad thing to witness. Luckily there are another fish store 50 minutes away from my house. But they sell more catfishes. And its in a city that we usually visit. Here is a screen shot of the catfishes he has
https://gyazo.com/2ca24918aa62b78201c692f78923eebe
https://gyazo.com/63b9dd57f48a124a9c48f428f313f1c9
Wich of these would i be able to keep in a mbuna tank?
I will try to get the filter before adding the new fish. The thing is just that i am 18 and living at home and the tank is in the livingroom. Me and my father has the tank together. So he owns half the fish and i the other half. But i do the maintenance and feeding. He had a mixed african cichlid tank in the late 70s and because of that it was very hard to convince him that it would be better to buy a cannister filter for the tank but he gave in when he heard what the guy we bought the fish from recommended. A positive thing is that he also thinks the tank is a bit understocked. But he doesnt want to buy the filter right now he thinks that we should wait another 3 months. But he wanted to buy the fish when the next wage come in. Im trying to get a "Yes" on buying the filter for my money, i will see how that goes. Hopefully they will let me soon. The total cost if i buy the filter with the filtermedia i linked would be about 165$ but if i buy the eheim substrate balls you talked about, the total cost will be a little over 200$. Can i buy the ceramic rings first and then switch them out later? Also if i happen to fail at getting them to let me to buy the filter for my own money. Would i be able to buy the fish first and then wait a month or two and then buy the filter? If not how long will i have to have the external filter running for before i buy the new fish. I am planning to switch to white cichlid sand (https://gyazo.com/c4169a8f595a2722a6534155bd2b78e7) when i remove the UGF so i would atleast need to have it running 3 weeks? 2 with the UGF in the tank and then 1 after i removed it?
When i order the filter i will also order some test kits.
I have a limestone that it grows algea on and after cleaning it from algea it will take about 1 and a half week for it to grow to 1mm. If that says something about the nitrates?
Similar to the same one that I have.
POPETPOP Fish Nursery for Aquarium-Fish Breeding Net Hang on Breeder Box-Large Size https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07SRC4PCM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_MTPF9YFS469VCZ9CRVNX
It's a big subject, really. I'm old school and like books.
There are lots of books out there. This one is inexpensive
Aquarium Care of Cichlids (Animal Planet® Pet Care Library) https://www.amazon.com/dp/0793837774/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_i_D59P2NQ4ZCYC0RER82SQ
Yeah they are pretty sweet! I hadn’t either I till my recent research! Here’s the link.
> the entire bottom of the tank should be covered in that plating
It seems like nobody will answer my post on the aquarium subredit so i think i will have to go for the undergravel filtration. I have just found a place where i can buy 2 new filtration plates. But i cant find any uplift tubes.
> with a minimum of two uplift tubes, one in each corner, although it's very common to see 3 or 4 uplift tubes
Is this what you mean (https://gyazo.com/53aa15e97823f3b5eb3a288aa137ab4c)?
Or do you mean 1 powerhead and 3 uplift tubes?
If i would have 2 power heads i reckon that i should install them so the water flow goes like this (https://gyazo.com/0c3e51c42454557fa849458430cf9b99)
Do you think that the DIY aquariums that the guy on youtube builds are good? Like how long will they last? Is it better to buy one? What type of filtration should i look at on the channel?
Also how many aquariums do you have and what are you keeping in them?
This is hopefully my last question if the waterflow problem is corrected and when i know how many powerheads i will need and what how much water turnover they should have (each). So here it comes
How long time does it take for mbuna to get to full size?
The picture isnt mine it took it of google just to show what i was talking about. But they look like that and i have of them, they are about 1foot long each and sits on the left side of the tank. In the left inner corner there are a tube that goes from the bottom filter up to the power head. (This is how it looks like from the top https://gyazo.com/c1d95227bd97a37cbc872c3eff865e12)
The simple question is where i should put the new power head if i purchase two. Like where to put them so i get the best water circulation? Sorry if im making things more complicated. Its hard to explain when you barely know how a undergravelfilter works.
>You really want to consider adding a DIY
Yes, I have two now. But if i were to add 1 powerhead i would need to add one of those white plates on the bottom. Otherwise it would not reach the otherside of the aquarium.
>1500-1800 lph is about the most I'd probably put through it total
I know that but should i buy 2 620 lph or 2 1000lph or 1 1500 lph? (https://gyazo.com/b99397a423497e17c02dcb0d0a732154)
>You really want to consider adding a DIY
What is that and where do i find instructions to make one?
Mine love this
Get something like this and after a week or two put her in it. The last two times I did it myself, she spit the babies out almost immediately, then I put her back in population and let the babies grow out a bit in the fry net.
They hold for 3-4 weeks. You could strip her of the eggs and put them in an egg tumbler but if you don’t have one of them then put her in a separate tank and let her spit in there. I feed my babies this and they love it. As the grow I would start to introduce them to (crushed up) cichlids pellets. So far none of mine have died as far as I know (apart from about 20 but they were all from the same mum and that was my fault as I left them in the egg tumbler for too long) and mine are 2-3 weeks old
Few ways you can tamp down on aggression.
1st you’re under stocked, you should probably be more around 15-20. This helps a ton. Can’t pick on single fish when they get lost in the crowd. I don’t have a fish store either but have ordered 100’s online with no problems.
More caves, something along the lines of this is easy. I have 12 or so in one Mbuna tank.
With mbuna, caves and more caves.
Sight line brakes. Something like a tall thick fake plant works! Helps them stop chasing tank wall to tank wall.
I honestly think you just need more fish.
Definitely bloat. I would treat with metroplex to help relieve symptoms quickly.
Best way is to mix the medicine in a cup of tank water and soak food in the mixture. let sit in this mixture so the food absorbs some of the medicine while the rest goes into the tank water.
New Life Spectrum Naturox Series Cichlid Formula Supplement, 150g https://www.amazon.com/dp/B077MMHP79/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_M04BJFN189YA6JYJ05JA?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Hikari Cichlid Gold Fish Food, Medium Pellets https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005FTN4OK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_JDF06NR498HFDJAH08PW?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Would be a good diet for them
If you take some sand out that may help with nitrates as well at some point as waste can build up if the sand is too deep and you aren’t able to vacuum out as easily, but each setup is different.
I put egg crate under my substrate like this
It helps protect the bottom of you tank with heavier rocks and keeps them from being able to dig under a rock setup. This won’t help smaller rocks from being covered, but is helpful if you add more rock especially if you stack rocks heavier in on place as it helps diffuse the weight across the bottom of the tank as well.
You want more rocks. You want to try and avoid stacking your pile so that you're artificially creating caves, especially when all your caves are open, large, and forward facing.
Check out this google image search for some pretty decent ideas (though you don't have to use Ecosia, obviously)
Without getting too deep into the details, your fish want caves to be able to hide from threats and predators. So having caves where you can very clearly see in to them from multiple directions doesn't do anything for their stress levels. Generally, a good cave is something that's only got room for one fish, is blocked off on most sides and the easiest way to get them is just stack rocks in stable formations to look as natural as possible.
If you want more mind-numbing annoying detail, I'm happy to provide it.
Saw a trick on youtube that I tried out and really liked.
Top tray: fluval pads like this and this and a chemical media like purigen or chemipure sandwiched in between them.
Then a shit ton of Bio media in the bottom two trays.
Even though the bottom tray is hit last, and you usually want your chemical media to be the last thing the water hits, the reasoning is basically getting the water as clean as possible before it hits the bio media so it never gets gunky. Also, since the fx6 is a pain to service, having the only things you need to change out (the pads and chemical) on top make it so much easier.
Here it is, I'm going to get the 4k version to upgrade :)
Give this a shot. Works for me.
I used this method to strip. Using the net allows you to have a solid grip using less grip force and keeps you from injuring the fish. You don’t have to pry hard they should release them pretty easy, and often will release them simply when held in a vertical manner with their mouth downward
Hey! Its a light rod I got off Amazon (LED Aquarium Light, Underwater Fish Tank Lights RGB Waterproof Color Changing Adjustable Memory Submersible Remote Control Sucker Hang Lights Background Decor Waterfall Lights 7.5" https://www.amazon.com/dp/B074W5DRDN/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_Q7NKC4SE13DSGYWQ4CC9). Thank you for checking out the video.
I bought this and some bbs eggs. Low maintenance and great yields. Highly recommend if you want live food. It takes about 18 hours to hatch and you can get a good yield for at least 2 days
Brine Shrimp Hatchery Dish (Eggs Sold Separately.) by Brine Shrimp Direct Learn more: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08KRZT369/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_BEEAMHJ67Q7N9T4PK2VY?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
In the past on my cichlid tanks I had gotten some hiding stones like these and I kind of stacked them into two piles on each end of the tank, and filled out the spaces between the stones with plants/driftwood to kind of blend things together. Cichlids loved them.
This is the pump VIVOSUN 800GPH Submersible Pump(3000L/H, 24W), Ultra Quiet Water Pump with 10ft High Lift, Fountain Pump with 5ft Power Cord, 3 Nozzles for Fish Tank, Pond, Aquarium, Statuary, Hydroponics https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07L54HB83/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_5S2FXGYG254Q44DW2EBP?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
This is the tube I bought because I didn’t have one
Python Airline Tubing for Aquarium, 25-Feet https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000255NYQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_ARHWDYX4DJMQ4PK4WNKC?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
As others mention, leaves need to be out of the water. Genius method though! If you do find that they are picking at it you can get a cheap planter that suctions to the back of your aquarium wall. I have these lining the back and a full head of pothos hair for my aquarium top. Adds a lovely element to any tank.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008DBP0NU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glc_fabc_M5PH303XZT68M7Z12Q8D
I crush this stuff up, so there's a mix of small and fine crumbles, a size for every mouth, ya know? I also occasionally drop in a couple blood worms or frozen baby brine shrimp.
On Amazon. WEAVERBIRD Fish Hatchery Incubator, Aquarium Cichlids Fish Egg Incubator Tumbler Fish Hatchery Breeding for Fish Tank https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0836L1M5G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_5QWWAPAWB2NGR6ZFAM47
Biggest tip I can give you is to feed them Dainichi Veggie Deluxe or Dainichi Veggie FX. I kept a lot of different malawi cichlids over the course of 10 years and those foods blow everything else out of the water (pun). They're expensive, but they're worth it. However, it seems to have gone off the market. Thanfully, before it disappeared, a guy from Canada copied the recipe and came out with Northfin, which is essentially the same thing. You can get it on amazon. Here's the link:
​
This one from Amazon https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07NV6GLXH/
The built in battery charges with USB and goes for several months between charges. Been using it for about a month and I love it. The only tricky thing with these style of feeders is adjusting the quantity. I found by making very small adjustments and using a piece of tape to hold the adjustment flap in place I can get it where I want it.
Yes, anti ich medicine should work.
This book is a good overview of fish diseases and how to cure them:
Northfin Food Veggie Formula 1Mm Pellet 250 Gram Package https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00M4PZIMO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_rHOX57t6rxpDG
They LOVE it!!
And also about once a week—maybe less of this
Omega One Freeze Dried Brine Shrimp, 0.67 oz https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000BYJPKG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_pIDFjJ6wfG5jS
Here's the one I would reccomend. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B019YXYO0U/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_i1JCFb1M5461Q Affordable and full spectrum, keep in mind lighting is important but i also shoot with a nikon d5600 dslr which helps capture the quality and colors.
Get a timer. They are pretty cheap and you can schedule the lights to turn on and off. I have always used one to generate a sense of consistency in the timing of the lights. Here's one from Amazon under $10.
They lock in pretty good on their own, but I have holes drilled with plastic dowels and some aquarium safe silicone holding them all together.
These are the rocks I have: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00F8DVAO4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I have 80 pounds.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002AQXTA/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apa_DWUsAbWF1FQX4
Would this filter be a better choice or still need something stronger?
Can't do a bigger tank right this moment. Should we wait to start tank until we can or is it okay to go with the 60 gal we have for now since getting younger fish and upgrade as fish mature? Typically how long until they get to their mature size or at what size/timeline do we need to upgrade them by?
They never look mangled, they were swimming around like normal not hiding or anything. They looked like bones which ive never seen before. I am feeding them https://www.cobaltaquatics.com/collections/flake-fish-food/products/cichlid-flake-food and yes they were eating before death.
They are fed 3 times daily by 2 EHEIM Automatic food dispensers and they do not leave much if anything behind. https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B001F2117I/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Lookin good . my only concern is the smooth rocks on the left side falling. im sure they are more stable than it looks (pics never do justice) but for peace of mind id putty them in place for a semi permanent hold. Also a black backdrop would be nice imo :P other than that the tank looks great. i would love to see a large group of demasoni in it but thats just me :P cheers
> Well, if the husband doesn't want to be Aquarium Robert Smith, just wait.
Cure reference, nice.
> The cheapest way would be to purchase a good HOB filter like an Aquaclear 70 or a fluval C5, though you can get a SunSun canister through amazon at just barely a little more. You're definitely going to want both filters on as you're cycling.
Is this one appropriate? Then to confirm, you are saying run both the 220 that we already have and the SunSun?
> Speaking of which, you've mentioned you're cycling your tank currently--what method are you using to cycle it and do you have a testing kit for your water parameters?
The tank has been filled & there are some cherry shrimp in there right now (We'll find them another home before the cichlids hit the tank.) My husband was in charge of the cycling process, but I can tell you he did some minimal reading & then winged it LOL. He put a used filter from our other tank in there for a week or so in a mesh bag, along with a decent amount of gravel from an active tank. We have since removed all of that so we could put in the sand to prepare for the cichlids. Other than that, cycling has mostly just been waiting (2-3 weeks so far). We tested for ph & ammonia. Ammonia is 0 and I don't remember what the ph was offhand (but it was within range of the cichlids I was considering at the time). We'll need to test that again anyway since we pulled the gravel & put in the sand this past weekend. I also ordered a water hardness test that hasn't arrived yet after reading that cichlids seem to like hard water.
I was looking at flakes and I found that fluvial makes some that read very good. What's your thought on these?
140gm Fluval Cichlid Flakes, 4.94-Ounce https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DHH079C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_JMP5ybAACVGCQ
As it stands, I'm looking to go with an mbuna tank (considering overcrowding maybe in the future to reduce aggression as some recommended) & no plants. Lights: I was looking for a light that's just for a fish aquarium, not for plants since algae growth and all. The ones you suggested should still be fine? Plus, I came across this on amazon before I read your post, what do you think about this? Filter: Would (2) AquaClear 50's be enough for a 50 gal. overstocked tank, since you mentioned 8-10x tank volume?
Also, your answer was very helpful to me as I'm looking to get started with my new tank, thank you so much!
Edit: Might be a silly question, but I was wondering, would it be risky to put 1 or 2 haps/peacock in my mbuna tank (considering going with a 50 gal.)
Thank you so much for this info! I actually looked into the aqua clear 50's and also 70's. Another user, MoistDiapers mentioned that I could use 2 or just 1 powerful filter, so I was thinking about using just one, the Marineland emperor 400, what do you think about that?
EDIT: This is the filter I read many good reviews about, along with the 50's that you recommended.
The Hikari pellets are the sinking type - I've never been a fan of floating, as the dominant fish don't often allow the other fish to eat enough. Here's the link
Currently, the fish are only eating 1-3 medium sized pellets per feeding, so no more than 6 or so per day. Normally, they'll happily take 4-6 each feeding, plus some of the New Life Spectrum smaller pellets. Most of my Cichlids are at least 4", several are fully grown adults around 6-8". It's primary a peacock tank, with a Frontosa, Leleupi, Brichardi, and Hap Obliquiden.
I probably don't feed enough for them to eat longer than about 15 seconds right now, since I'm trying to keep things light. Under normal conditions, they'll usually eat all of the food I put in the tank within 1-2 minutes. As you know, they're pigs when healthy!
I've always avoided feeding on the weekends as I've heard it's wise to give them a fast day or two in order to clear out their bowels.
Also for food, I use New Life Spectrum Cichlid Formula 1 mm sinking pellets. I get 250g at a time, and it usually lasts a couple months at least.
https://www.amazon.com/New-Life-Spectrum-Cichlid-Formula/dp/B0002E7IRW
The biggest problem illness-wise that Cichlids can get is what's called "Malawi Bloat". It causes their digestive systems to swell, and they usually die quickly. No one knows precisely what causes it, but poor quality food or overfeeding can be to blame. There are a number of other good foods that will work, but I've had this recommended to me by a number of big aquarium keepers as the best, and I've never had a single issue with my fish being sick. It's a bit hard to find though, so I usually just order in the mail. PetCo and Dr. Foster's and Smith both carry it. This formula also has ingredients in it that encourages brighter colors in cichlids.
>http://www.amazon.com/Cichlids-Robert-J-Goldstein/dp/0876660200/ref=sr_1_13?ie=UTF8&qid=1439406056&sr=8-13&keywords=robert+j.+goldstein Is this book good? I found it at home. Its from the 70s so i have not read it.
I haven't read that one either, but I know it's 45 years old so it's almost certainly out of date. From the descriptions it looks like it's all cichlids, which means it's probably only got a few dozen pages on mbuna--most of which would be long outdated now. I doesn't hurt to read, you can always learn some things from it, but it's like reading a biology textbook from the 70s. Some stuff is just wrong now.
>Can the food i am giving them be the problem?
I can't see the ingredients, but typically tropical has a bad reputation for poor quality ingredients. However, that shouldn't affect whether your fish hide or not. That's a comfort problem from too few fish and/or too few hiding places.
http://www.amazon.com/Cichlids-Robert-J-Goldstein/dp/0876660200/ref=sr_1_13?ie=UTF8&qid=1439406056&sr=8-13&keywords=robert+j.+goldstein
Is this book good? I found it at home. Its from the 70s so i have not read it. If you remember i posted that my cichlids were extremly shy. The options were to buy more fish or to add more stones. So i added 12 stones (they are about the size of two fists put together. And for a few days they became much less shy. But now they are shy again, they come for food but when i open the top of the aquarium they immediatly go back to hiding. http://www.tropical.pl/en/products/aquarium/foods/premium-line/cichlid-foods/cichlid-chips/ Can the food i am giving them be the problem?
Thanks for the tips and taking your time. I think i will buy a little amount of Tropical fish foot tonight when im buying the cichlids then i will import new life spectrum from amazon.co.uk if i can find any that ship to sweden. Do i need more than this http://www.amazon.com/New-Life-Spectrum-Cichlid-Freshwater/dp/B001AEOX7G/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1437652880&sr=8-3&keywords=new+life+spectrum
Or is there other foods that i may need? What do you feed them?