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Looks like a 3.5mm 3-pole. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B095NN8H13/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_60VXHVEHXCAJVECF313P
Although honestly if you have equipment in a rack, you could probably look at the back of the equipment and possibly find an unused one in a device. When I integrate a rack with equipment I always put the unused Phoenix blocks in the equipment in case anyone needs to install anything on that port in the future.
Get an HDMI splitter and launder the signal by running it through port 2.
This one (and others like it) strip out the HDCP, giving you a clean signal that the TV will accept as 4K.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005HXFARS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_fab_WA7DFb8RZ3HYE
These guys are your friend, you can flip TX/RX easily if needed. Cuziss 5pcs 3.5mm (1/8inches) Stereo Audio Male to AV 3-Screw Terminal Female Phoenix Adapter Connector https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LWK3G1L/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_AD6S4TSEEQXZYPFK9HXV?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Kaico Edition OSSC Open Source Scan Converter 1.6 with SCART, Component and VGA to HDMI for Retro Gaming. Line Multiplier upscaler Perfect for Zero lag RGB Retro Gaming https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07QF95QP3/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_9STRMFK1R4MZ98QVDTTP
AV Access UHD 4K30Hz HDMI Matrix 4x2 - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01EV3LMBW/
Comes with a remote to toggle between inputs, you could just switch to an unused input so it displays black for OUT 2 while OUT 1 is displaying locally.
Do you have the study guide? This is really the best resource to study for the exam, but CTS General is not that difficult. The hardest part of the exam was knowing which was the 'most' right answer.
This part frustrated me a little. Not enough to come close to not passing, but the wording of their questions and options for answers are not always what you would expect. Sometimes, depending on what industry you're in, the best practice differs, which leaves room for more than one right answer. They are looking for their definition of the answer, which you'll only find in the study guide or prep classes. There are some other process questions related to project management that are only in the study guide as well, but probably not enough to make you fail if you missed a few of them.
That being said, if you're solid on the practice exam, you should be alright. The General CTS exam just isn't that tough if you know your basics you should be able to pass. The study Guide (you can buy it on amazon - https://www.amazon.com/Certified-Technology-Specialist-Guide-Second/dp/0071807969/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1479329136&sr=8-1&keywords=cts+study+guide ) has a CD-ROM with a practice test that changes, unlike the InfoComm practice exam.
For CTS, I believe you are allowed 1 page of 'notes'? Bring along your Ohms law formulas if you need it, there's probably 5% on that alone. Spl/db calculations are good to know as well. Beyond that, it was MOSTLY common sense, at least enough to pass.
Good Luck! I got my CTS General and CTS-I back to back at InfoComm shows. For what it's worth, I DON'T recommend scheduling a CTS Exam at the Infocomm show in Vegas... That was no fun... Much better suited for Orlando where there's really not much else to do.. :P
The video crew at my venue use something like this.
Search Amazon for 'A fame guitar stand'.
I have an Amazon Basics camera case (basically same size as a 1510) and a whole bunch of canvas zipper bags from home Depot. There are different sized bags so I have a little bag full of RJ45 connectors that fits in a larger bag containing my wire strippers, crimp tool, flush cuts, etc. It works better than I imagined. It was going to start as a bandaid until I got dividers but I don't think I'm gonna get them anymore. Just more canvas bags.
Hard case:
A long time ago, I was remodeling my living room/theater and looked into DP wall plugs. They were definitely hard to find and I think one of the ideas was that every plug transition impacted quality of the signal, so doing wall plugs like that goes from 1 cable -> 3 cables + 2 wall plugs, which led to concerns over signal quality. I ended up just running one long cable, which isn't the best from a "clean" standpoint, but I think that's a functional vs asthetic trade-off.
There are some face plates that make this a little cleaner. Some examples for thought: https://www.amazon.com/BATIGE-Anti-dust-Through-Insert-Theater/dp/B01LZFAS43?ref_=fsclp_pl_dp_5
https://www.amazon.com/Arlington-CE1-1-Recessed-Cable-1-Gang/dp/B002W6ZPXM?ref_=fsclp_pl_dp_1
So are you needing to capture the audio or the monitoring you get from the tesira program while a call is going on? If it's screen capture, I've had good luck with OBS as a free option.
You can set your active scene as a window capture and record to .FLV
From there, it's an easy transcode through handbrake to get an mp4 out of it.
Wow, that's an interesting problem! If you have LAN in the rooms you could probably do it all with a Raspberry Pi:
If you have a captive portal which knows the room number, you could just have it generate passcodes on first login, then have some script running on the Pi which reconfigure and restart the AirPlay/Bluetooth services to suit. Then only that room's devices will be able to connect to its speakers.
If you have a managed switch that you can configure programmatically, you could block devices from seeing any other AirPlay than the one in their room (since you have the MAC from the captive portal). Not much you could do about the Bluetooth though, except it's short range enough that you'd only see a few rooms' radius.
Also since it's a Pi you can do all kinds of other shit. Run an Icecast server for announcements, that kind of stuff.
What about a Hackrf One and GQRX? Gives you the whole frequency range and fits the Budget, assuming you are already carrying a laptop with you.
My first thought was a NAS with some kind of direct USB access. I don't think this is something that exists. It sounds incredibly difficult to implement, with such a narrow use-case that nobody has done it as a product.
Things like the raspberry pi can present as a USB mass storage device.
Maybe you could mount an external SSD to that, have the pi boot in "gadget mode".
Then network share the SSD, and mount it on the other machine as a NAS.
Or you could have the Pi copy the files to a NAS, or onto a shared drive on the other machine. This would probably require putting a button (and maybe a small display to show progress) to fire a script to initiate the transfer.
The thing about this is to be aware of the data rates.
I'm not sure what the atem requires.
Another way might be to use a USB switcher.
Something that very simply disconnects the attached USB device from the atem and attaches it to the other machine, at the touch of a button.
Maybe something like this.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/CableDeconn-Bi-Direction-Delivery-Transfer-Converter-Black/dp/B092VHC166
(Not sure if this does data or just video)
Just to add, a lot of modern TV's come with composite/component inputs in the form of a TRRS jack. Usually the cable is not included or lost. Check the back of the TV and you may not need a converter. If you have the cable that came with the TV, you can put the VCR signal into the green jack.
In this case the RCA jack on the VCR looks like it has a BNC to RCA connector which outputs composite signal for video.
If you don't have the cable then you can use the one in the link below. The red and white won't be audio, the audio input on the TV will be a different jack for the composite/component signal.
Antoble 3.5mm TRRS to RCA Composite Stereo Audio Cord Hosa Camcorder AV Breakout Cable https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01E6Z75RA/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_MM2K46G6K9ACMEFGHMMK
All good. I don't have any hardware in hand currently. But working plan is as follows.
A couple of Piway HDMI/IP extenders that are scalable (support 1 to many output over TCP/IP) https://www.amazon.com/PWAY-Extender-Multiple-Monitors-Ethernet/dp/B08RDPHZYG/ref=sr_1_5?dchild=1&keywords=hdmi%2Bover%2Bip&qid=1626129469&sr=8-5&th=1#customerReviews
The bar has a couple of sources so I'd be looking at about 5 of the HDMI transmitters (TX) and 15 or so receivers (RX)
A gigabit 24 or 48 port switch for the connections
And use existing monitors in the bar.
Process goes from HDMI source to HDMI transmitter > Converts to ethernet (Cat6) And hooks into a gigabit network switch > Outputs from switch to HDMI Receivers > converts back to HDMI and outputs to screen.
As far as I've been made aware, these extenders do all the heavy lifting as long as they're hooked up where they belong. I just need to get the solution for switching inputs to outputs as needed. As in I need source 1 to now go to tv 5, where as tv 5 was previously receiving source 2. ETC.
Watch this brilliant scene from the movie Network and pretend a trustworthy friend has convinced you that the story is metaphor for how AV and IT work together in the second decade of this millennium. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07YMFZ28Q/?tag=thewire06-20&linkCode=xm2&ascsubtag=AwEAAAAAAAAAAdOj
Those IN/OUT pairs allow a source - typically a camera - to be wired into a channel of the mixer and, via the OUT connector, along to another destination - often a monitor. This IN/OUT configuration is often referred to as looping inputs or similar because it allows cabling to provide a single source to multiple destinations via loops of cable from output to input.
The absence of a termination switch suggests that, if you wire a given source device to one channel of this switcher, and only that destination, you'll want to use a 75-ohm terminator in the OUT connector. This should ensure that the signal the switcher receives is within the correct electrical characteristics. Put another way, if you leave off the terminator, the input signal will be more than the 1V it's supposed to be, and it will look really washed out.
To answer your original question, I have another question: is a requirement of his use-case high-quality, uncompressed capture, or can he work with one of the webcam-like capture devices? Those are almost always USB Video based, and don't require a driver at all.
IoGear makes one, and there are countless cheap no-name HDMI->USB adapters, some with USB-C whips.
If he requires higher quality, and it turns out to be a power issue and not a kernel extension issue, then there are (obviously more expensive) Blackmagic capture devices which are externally powered.
I'm curious how bad they actually are.
https://www.amazon.com/Cisco-TelePresence-Precision-Camera-CTS-CAM-P60/dp/B00P3QWXG0
reference price: https://www.cdw.com/product/cisco-telepresence-precision-60-conference-camera/3383312?pfm=srh
Maybe consider getting a 12v camera supply, and install it somewhere closer, like a ceiling space. That’s what I did for a half-dozen cameras when the rack was going to be 200’ away. There’s a bunch on Amazon.
Something like this:
Monoprice 16 Channel CCTV Camera Power Supply - 12VDC - 10Amps https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0069MB6G0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_gurhCbPSQ66FK
I see. Thank you so much for letting me know!! Agreed about covid - we aren't planning events for the fall but wanted to take the time to perfect some stuff around the house.
I guess perfect was quite poor wording, but really just trying to find something that will work within our criteria. I think we'd be willing to pay more per speaker if it was our only option. The one in the link I sent retailed for $114 pre-COVID however, so I thought it wasn't too out-there for something passive.
What do you think the price range would be for a decent passive mono-capable speaker?
edit for example, something like this seems adequate but I can't tell if we could just plug one 1/4in into it rather than the two it provides
To be more specific - if your budget doesn't cover the Extron type solution - these are what I use a few times a year when I need to display same HDMI source content onto multiple displays. https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-HDMI-Extender-Ethernet/dp/B00OZV04BK/ref=sr_1_4?crid=1QJOYRBPP3EZD&keywords=hdmi+over+ethernet&qid=1671776780&sprefix=hdmi+over+etherne%2Caps%2C143&sr=8-4&ufe=app_do%3Aamzn1.fos.18ed3cb5-28d5-4975-8bc7-93deae8f9840
There is a diagram on the last picture in the listing. Just need to buy a switch and a few more recievers and off you go.
Very easy and 0 problems.
It's not auto, but I'm doing it with this one: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09332X9HH?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&ref_=cm_sw_r_cp_ud_dp_6GSJ9Z9WTFACGXT0X2A8
It has discrete A/B on the remote, at least, so I learned the IR and use an IR blaster to switch it based on which input is going to the screen, then I have the screen switcher programmed to change based on signal presence. This is on a Crestron room, but the concept is sound for whatever. The hard part is finding a low-cost USB 3.0 switch with discrete A/B. Most of them are single button push-to-toggle.
I was looking for the exact same thing when the pandemic started and rolled the dice on a cheap USB switching hub from Amazon.
Generic USB 3.0 Switch - $20.00.
Plug the room PC into input 1, and when the switch senses a new computer plugged into Port 2 it switches the USB devices to Port 2. Once the Port 2 computer is disconnected the USB devices are switched back to the room PC.
Even though it worked perfectly, I never installed the device in our Zoom Rooms since Zoom added the "Pair with Room" feature before classes were back in person.
So I have no idea how long they last. Apparently, most/all of these types of cheap USB switches on Amazon will also auto-switch when they sense a new input.
I've used this one every day for 12+ years and it works great.
Doesn't calculate wattage automatically but I just use my phone for that.
ATM I'm using this and am content with it: https://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B08T7BDWV6
It can handle up to 4k60 HDR, BUT it can't do VRR, black screen most of the times.
~ 60 €/$
It's an HDMI 2.0b spec.
Technically is the HDMI syncing the crux or just the quality/bandwidth of the ports?
As product descriptions don't often say exactly they're NOT supporting VRR it's a matter of experience of users having success with VRR on 2.0 spec Matrices I thought.
Or just get one of these, since the base station output is XLR and I can connect between that base station and the Shure Transceiver? Shure BLX24/PG58 Wireless Microphone System with BLX4 Receiver and BLX2 Handheld Transmitter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B016APL8EA/
this seems like it's what you're looking for.
This handheld scanner looks like it would work. PLC Tools IP Address Explorer
I've never used one, but from the manual...
"Read Unknown IP Address - The SIM-IPE can be plugged into a single device or into an Ethernet switch to discover multiple devices at one time. "
"In both situations, it will read the IP address, MAC address, and in some cases the device model number, device firmware, and device serial number. Please note that for large networks it may take few minutes to discover devices. Not all device can be found. Some devices require power cycle to be discovered."
The Amazon reviews seem pretty positive. "
Check out the breakout boxes from SoundTools. They provide 4 channels over a single shielded CAT cable (it must be a shielded cable). They are analog and support 48V phantom mic power. They have a 12-channel rack-mounted version, and 4 and 8-channel wall-mounted versions. https://soundtools.com/audio-over-cat5-systems-page.html
Lyxpro makes a similar 4-channel product.
Depends on why you need matte. Is it for anti-glare, studio application, or finger print residue reduction, or specific color filter/correction? But you can find consumer level products like thisanti-glare overlay. Or there are commercial vendors that can help customize the product.
Can't really speak to network testers other than telling you that Klein Scout is a nifty tool.
Re: dB meter: Extech SL510
$110 gets you A/C weightings, ±1dB tolerance, 130dB max SPL, peak hold option, and a backlight. Runs off AAA.
There are tons of barrel style but I can't seem to find any short cable style. Honestly when I was still working AV we would just make these in-house.
Also, are you sure that's a DMX input for those LEDs? It's weird that it's got the wrong gender on it.
Brady is the one my company issues us to purchase. Really happy with it honestly. I get the tape off Amazon. I'm sure my comment won't help at all but maybe ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
>There are hd over coax solutions, but you are locked into that vendor's camera and dvr.
>The cameras are a dead end technology wise, so they are limited to 1mp resolution or so.
>Personally, I would use the siamese cable as pull string to install new cat6a cable for the replacement ip cameras.
You really think you're going to use 10g cameras at that location when the majority of cameras are 100Mbps?
>I have an old analog system with rg6 cable that gets intermittent interference and hum bars in the picture.
Sounds like you should check the connectors.
I honestly don't think they're outdated if you're using existing stuff. You'll either need to use the existing wiring with analog cameras, or use some kind of PoE adapter to switch them to IP cameras. Most people don't need 8MP 4K cameras and just want something good quality, which coax can still easily deliver.
Since you seem to have most of the components already - projector, screen, source device - you could try something like this for your mic solution and just get a USB webcam to place where ever it fits best. You may need a USB extender of some type for your cam depending on the layout of your furniture/table.
The other thing I would do is get a wireless keyboard and mouse to use with that laptop so you can keep everything together at one end of the table, and still be able to use the laptop from the opposite end, or however you have it set up.
That would be the cheapest solution to meet your needs. It will look like ass though, but ymmv.
u/MrGreenMan can I use something like this? https://www.amazon.co.uk/Terminal-Converter-Gelrhonr-Soldless-Headphone-Black/dp/B08MCSHHBC/ref=sr_1_3?crid=3FCGT4O7ZPTEX&keywords=terminal+block+aux&qid=1661172844&sprefix=terminal+block+aux%2Caps%2C63&sr=8-3
And then have two wires coming out of each side for + and - ? or would that not work?
If you're looking for a very cost effective solution to just loop some images and or play some HD (1080p and below) H.264 videos, you can't beat this: https://www.amazon.com/Micca-Full-HD-Portable-Digital-Player/dp/B008NO9RRM
That's not going to work. You need an extender that supports USB.
They come pretty cheap though. I've got one of these in my parents' house and it's worked fine for several years. I wouldn't recommend it for gaming though, due to the latency. It's fine for normal use, but not gaming.
I haven't tried streaming specifically, but I use this multiple times a week to get internet onto a network via either Wifi, USB tethering, or an ethernet WAN connection. They have been rock solid for me for years, and cheap to replace if they ever do bug out or get damaged:
https://www.amazon.com/GL-iNet-GL-MT1300-Wireless-Pocket-Sized-Repeater/dp/B08MKZXGBY/ref=sr\_1\_4
you may be able to use something like this hdbt repeater but I cannot speak to how well it works. It's cheap enough that purchasing one won't break the bank if you want to test it out.
Close, but actually, no, thanks - it needs to reach out to 400 x 400 to connect to the wall mount. That only goes out to 400 x 200.
I was thinking of this: Adapter plates However, they specifically say to NOT use it to go from a smaller TV to a bigger mount. (But I cannot imagine why that would be a problem)
I would suggest a commercial amplifier like a Crown XLS 1002 or Behringer NX1000D and there are other options available.
For airplay a good option is a network streaming device like the S10.
S10 Network Streamer
I have installed many of these for businesses, it has Airplay, DLNA, Bluetooth, USB Audio Player and many streaming options. It also has both Wifi and ethernet connections for flexibility.
The difference, to me, is the ease of installation (and some in fault tolerance).
For an "ohm" system you need to match the amp, the speakers, and wiring to have the correct ohms. So say a 4 ohm amp you are going to have to use series and parallel wiring for the sixteen 8ohm speakers to "appear" as 4ohms to the amp. Can I do the math and figure that out, sure. Do I want to, no.
70v is constant voltage. You just need to connect all the positives terminals to the positive wire and the negative terminals to the negative wire. So however you need to wire things to achieve that, will work. Either looping out one speaker to the next or with a terminal strip (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07CLW5FPS/).
Then all you need to know is how much wattage your speakers need. Say 5w each. So 5w x 16 = 80w. With a 20% overhead, you need a 100w amp. Thats easy math and easy wiring.
Also, if something happens to the wiring, you only have issues with that speaker (or down the line), not the whole system being the wrong ohm impedance and causing issues for the amp.
>https://www.amazon.com/EVanlak-Passthrough-Generrtion-Eliminated-Thunderbolt/dp/B07YMWB98J
Interesting. The basic problem is the Tap can't wake the system - if the Tap came on but the monitor didn't come on, I'd be inclined to try an EDID adapter. But since the Tap doesn't wake up either when I tap on it, I don't think this is a TV/EDID issue. The problem is the Tap ... isn't waking up, when I tap on it, which is a fundamental problem. I suspect I could reproduce this if I removed the TV from the equation completely.
Thank you for your feedback. I might try removing the TV's HDMI cabling from the PC just to see what happens; thanks for the food for thought!
Also - this is happening on just one PC, and the screens we use are the same commercial displays; there's something different on this one PC that makes it 'not like the others', and that's my biggest frustration with Windows - it's almost impossible to tell exactly what's different now.
Interesting, thank you for the detailed and long response.
For the display issue you have, that is an EDID problem in most cases. I remember when MS changed that and broke a bunch of rooms. The simplest solution we have found is to put an EDID emulator in-line. This keeps the HPD and EDID active to the MTR.
Fail sequence:
MTR puts displays to sleep.
Commercial Display goes to low power - turning of Hot Plug Detect (HPD) and EDID.
MTR wakes up, does not detect a connected display, gives warning for display disconnected.
Display does not turn on because it turns on at signal which the MTR won't do since it things nothing is connected.
With an EDID Emulator inline:
MTR puts displays to sleep.
Commercial displays go to standby - Turning of their HPD and EDID
EDID emulator inline keeps reporting a connected display to the MTR.
MTR Wakes UP. Detects displays and sends signal to displays.
Displays detect active video signal and wake from standby.
For all of our rooms we do one of these inline for the display(s): https://www.amazon.com/EVanlak-Passthrough-Generrtion-Eliminated-Thunderbolt/dp/B07YMWB98J
Works like a charm for us.
I work in education and we don't use the Meetup so can't talk to those issues. That does sound horrible.
We haven't had Windows/Teams drivers/software issues like you describe. Though we do suppress all updates during a school semester so the experience doesn't change for instructors. So we may get lucky and any issues are worked out by the time we do allow updates to go.
Thanks again for the response.
Bose used to include one of these with their DSP controllers. Just an 8P8C F barrel connector with a 3.5mm DC jack. Just make sure whatever you buy has the correct voltage polarity, just in case, otherwise, you’ll need to cut and splice.
https://www.amazon.com/Passive-Injector-Splitter-Connector-Ethernet/dp/B07F82YK6P/
DYMO Industrial Label Maker | RhinoPRO 5200 Label Maker, Time-Saving Hot Keys, Prints Fast, Durable Label Maker for Job Sites and Heavy-Duty Labeling Jobs https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002M1DEM6/ref=cm_sw_r_awdo_NY47CG3XJS4C7EW96JN0
Perfect so It would probably be a good idea to look into 70v speakers.
​
Do you know anything about the OSD brand? They have really good prices compared to QSC & JBL.
Community line by Biamp if you call an integrator
Or if you want to buy off Amazon I guess these speakers, but that price is terrible, and this amp
Run it all 70v, you'll be surprised at the fidelity, though you might need subs to fill it out
RE: CTS - If you've got that much experience you shouldn't have too much trouble with the CTS test, however, you could get hung up on some of the project management lingo that they use. The test study guide will give you what you need. See link here
As stated by axp27, Dante certification is also very helpful. If you're looking to work with an integrator, they'll be certified dealers that will enable you to do manufacturers certifications
One of these and one of their 1x4 would work. They are HDbaseT and the receivers are powered by the central transmitter so no extra power bricks behind the tv. You'd need a cat6 from the transmitter to each TV.
We use a few of these for something we don't mind bumping around in our field kits:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B077FTPT46/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Not the highest quality, but mostly we use it to check signal on installs rather than the calibrated ones we use for more precise signal correction etc.
In my TV studio, I use a Tektronix SDI waveform/Vectroscope monitor.
In classrooms and homes, I use a 7" security monitor multifunction tester similar to This Love the POE power injection to point and align IP cameras while I'm on a ladder.
Portkeys PT5 II Touchscreen Camera Field Monitor Wide Color Gamut |New Peaking |LUT |Video Assist |Luma |RGB Waveform for DSLR (5 Inch) https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B083J8RP6J/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_VRB4C07BHXJWVWAXB77G?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
HDMI only, but for the cost and screen size you can’t beat it.
FSR does have some high quality above and below options. Although if they are outside your budget, we find these work well for clients: https://www.amazon.com/SafCord-Carpet-Cord-Cover-Length/dp/B002CTA01Q/
Another option is to hold off on the extra mic and see how the room performs without it. In a lot of set up's most people are content without an add-on mic for a room of this size.
I think what r/Euphonic_Cacophony was recommending though was to maybe use a wireless bridge like this. https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N5RCZQH/ref=ox_sc_saved_title_3?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1
where you connect it to your wireless network you already have, then run the wire into the wired network port on the projector. Then you're not trying to figure out if a USB adaptor will work with the projector. You just need to work with standard network setup issues.
Any suggestions on an edid minder? I presently don't have one and agree it would be useful.
Would this work you think?
HDMI EDID Feeader EDID Manager Emulator Support 4K CEC, 1.4V HDMI Cable, (Up to 10M Distance) https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B07MZ69D1H/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_i_NQR852GMTG7DMB1ZG8GC
Okay, So my first thought of suggestion was for you to switch to a Barco Folsom ImagePro. But the used ones are $400 and only support a single output compared to the newer ones that can do multi-outputs.
​
This would have completely eliminated the need for your matrox unit and just consolidated everything into 1 chassis. Unfortunately - price is out of budget.
​
So, my second thought is to a display port KVM similar to this one (Display Port KVM on Amazon)
​
and just have a basic media player (HDMI HD media player) plug into it. When your laptop freezes, hit the switch button and swap over to the media player, when your laptop comes back on, swap back.
​
The benefit of going this route, while a little clunkier - is you can load some basic animation effects on the media player so you don't have to worry about it just being a boring static image.
​
The other option is, if you DM me your computer specs - you may be able to upgrade your computers hardware for $400 and solve the initial issue but that topic would be for a different sub.
​
Hope this helps!
At my previous company when we couldn't use rear rails we'd use finger molding like this
https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-2x2in-Wiring-Cable-Raceway/dp/B00008VFAP
It works decently well and you can hide excess cable in it. Get some for each side to separate power and av cabling.
this might meet your demand... But for non-technical users, I think a plug-and-play function is quite crucial. You may take a look at other products of the brand.
Not sure if this is what you're looking for. But out of all the BYOD products, this brand seems to be more affordable and reliable.
Oh no! I don’t have a mixer. Ugh.
I have a mult box and this: PRORECK Freedom 12 Portable... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B072NZK7J9?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Am I fucked? 😓
The others at this small company think just because I’m young that I’m the person to do this. Nope. Nope.
I suppose the next test would be get hold of one Keydigital receivers that match your transmitter. I had a look at the manual for your transmitter and does ask for soldered shields and you never see that in commercial HDBT cables (you have to do it yourself). The manal doesn't say that the transmitter is compatible with other HDBT receivers hence why I as k to try with one of their receivers. Their example applictaion PDF shows their transmitter only connecting to their receiver. Kramer HDBT only plays nice to Kramer. HDBT is supposed be universal standard but different manufacturers kit doesn't always play nice with each other.
They aren't cheap cables and I wouldn't trust someone saying they are certified. If you go on the Crestron or Extron engineer courses they'll make you terminate your own cables. They both use this style of RJ45 Toolless RJ45.
As for cable my company has learnt the hard way and we only use Excel Cat6 23awg or Kramer Unikat (the blue jacket Unikat made in Israel not the purple colour made in china).
If you want to connect the speaker output to the mixer input, DO NOT use an 8 ohm to 600 ohm transformer. This will increase the voltage on the secondary side to a level that might damage the mixer input. Instead, use a 1:1 transformer (like a Triad TY-145P). https://www.amazon.com/Triad-Magnetics-TY-145P-Transformer-Through/dp/B00M1K688A/ref=sr_1_5?crid=2QOSI77QGPUR&keywords=audio+transformer+600-600&qid=1644530663&sprefix=audio+transformer+600-600%2Caps%2C62&sr=8-5
This will give you the same voltage, but with isolation. It's okay to have the source impedance low as it feeds the 600 ohm input. You're mostly trying to send a voltage from the 8 ohm amplifier output to the mixer amp input.
The frequency response of this Triad transformer is about 200 Hz to 15,000 Hz, which should work well. If you can't get this specific one, look for something similar.
StarLink MoCA 2.5 Ethernet Adapter, Full-Duplex Gigabit Ethernet, 3 Pack (MN2525) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08FZ9CK8M/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_i_1Q1ZPTB1X2HSF073XHXP
165 bucks gets you 1 injector and 2 outputs, if you're buying decent Cat6 - you could have your input and 5 outputs for about the same price as a box.
And if you have Xfinity/Comcast they'll give you a MoCa injector for free that works with their modem.
Whether you're better off with a ceiling mic or can get away with a bar is heavily dependent upon the room size and acoustics. A thought for you: extraneous noises become not-so-relevant with an OUTSTANDING noise removal algorithm. Those are now here. If you haven't heard it, check out Krisp.ai It's magic and can sit between any audio input and Zoom/whatever. Biamp is releasing a bar in the next few months that has a similar algorithm built right in. Shure has been demo'ing a similar feature for some products, but I don't know if that's shipping yet.
I know the position offset is stored in the registry.
So I would start with them roughly were they need to be in the Windows display manager, then regedit them into the exact placement.
Obviously Windows doesn't let you subtract pixels for the lost bezel space, however I am unsure if that is pertinent to your application.
Do you know if something like this would work?
https://www.amazon.com/BAFX-Products-Infrared-Extender-Repeater/dp/B009ZGK6QS
I'm not understanding if a device like this would send all IR receiver signals out to every emitter or not.
8'' 2-Way Midbass Woofer Speakers - Pair In-Wall/In-Ceiling Woofer Speaker System 1'' High-Temperature Voice Coil Flush Mount Design w/50Hz - 20kHz Frequency Response 250 Watts Peak - Pyle PDIC81RD https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000CHRJ8C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_0K6QGNYH3KK1ZN6NDKHF?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Those are my ceiling speakers.
There was some talk of them spinning up Extron dev forums during the course, but haven't heard anything yet. Keep in mind too that it's not a proprietary language so you can use StackOverflow and other similar communities for anything not specific to the Extron libraries.
I recommend the following two apps for PDF’s on my iPad:
GoodReader is my daily use app for my reference materials. I couldn’t have gone paperless 10 years ago without it. It’s way more than just a viewer or markup tool. It’s also a sophisticated file managment utility that syncs with my cloud drive to make it easy to access all my files.
For note taking in class or meetings, sketching, and for PDF markup that requires more flexible hand markups or creative markups with lasso selection, copy, paste, and transform features my goto app is GoodNotes. Similar name but very different program.
Both are wonderful and worth considering.
what worked for me was this $9 USB. By using it, I'd use my lav mic as input and my computer's speakers as output. Hope it will work for you too.
Belkin Ethernet + Power Adapter with Lightning Connector (Mfi-Certified Lightning to Ethernet Adapter for iPad POS Systems) (B2B165bt) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07BMVW62P/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_NY1558D7ACGX7ZQZ33MC
This will power an iPad via Poe.
But you’re looking for 5v to poe injector?
You'll want to contact a business music provider like SiriusXM to learn more about the monthly costs and licensing fees: https://www.siriusxm.com/business
I'm sure there are others, but that's the biggest one I can think of.
Couple of random suggestions for you.
I'm assuming you have a decent grasp on basic electronics? I can recommend books if not. Get the Bob McCarthy green book and learn everything in it.
At some point you're going to hear dumb shit people involved in tuning. You can absolutely be easy to work work with, and work with them to give them whatever it is they're looking for without endorsing the stupidity.
If you're doing DSPs and a different individual is doing the control system, for the love of god, learn enough about how control systems work not to fuck them or fuck yourself. If the control system programmer wants something different from what you did, try to understand why, and don't take it as an attack on your intelligence. I promise you, nobody on the control side gives a fuck if you did something that isn't going to work, as long as you're open to understanding our objection and working with us to make the thing work.
Learn Javascript, CSS, NPM, how modern web development with frameworks like Angular and React work, and Git. You'll probably either need this stuff, or be working alongside people using it. freecodecamp.org is a great resource.
If you're interested in diving deeper on the network side, there are good Cisco CCNA courses on Udemy for $10 or $12.
Sorry, I don't know much about what you are trying to accomplish, but it sounds like you want a simple database. Have you looked at a webbased service, Airtable?
You would have to design the tables yourself, but this might help.
Remote Control for Christie LX120 LX1500 LW300 LU77 LX100 LX100D LW60D LX90D 3LCD Projector https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07PJ54DSY/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_2FAMW5R8QABX5KHFD01M
A replacement remote is cheap, that's the best way.
Serial is more fitting in a permanent install scenario when using a control system of some form.
Thank you so much for the great feedback, and I'm stoked to find some great options! Thank you for lending your brain, fingers and some time to help me out! I'll follow-up down the road so you can see where we land. Again, thank you!
If you're building around teams, it has built in NDI integration features that can be pretty helpful for bringing in remote participants - especially if your remote participants don't have any tech beyond a typical PC rig. A product like vMix Call is also an option.
I just discovered Krisp.ai for audio noise reduction on the client end, which has me gob smacked, by way of an aside.
Ah, I see what you're doing.
What I would do in your case, would be to make each room a different "Class," that way you can turn on and off the walls as needed per configuration. That way, the walls are still there, but you change their visibility. You can even grey them out if you need them as reference.
This further explains how layers and classes work in VWX.
http://www.vectorworks.net/getting-started-guides/Common/working-with-classes-and-layers
I hope that makes sense.
There's a nice writeup from the resolume folks on this:
https://resolume.com/support/en/lots-of-outputs
Although it's getting old and doesn't mention NDI.
Not sure what kind of functionality you really need, but Qlab might solve most, if not all of your problems. Licensing is cheap (if you even need it). Otherwise it's freeware.
What operating system?
Sunflower (https://github.com/mattingalls/Soundflower) works well on OSX for creating virtual audio interfaces and controlling mixes.
The are some options for Windows too (see https://reddit.com/r/audioengineering/comments/3geqse/soundflower_alternative_on_windows/)
Essentially you want to send the right mix to the zoom call but a different mix to the recording software. Best way to do that is create the mixes and send them to dedicated sound (virtual) sources which each software can recognise.
Seems a bit like "black magic" but it works.
We use on premise R-HUB HD video conferencing servers http://www.rhubcom.com/ for all our video conferencing needs. We prefer it because it allows 30 people to join a video conference and works flawlessly on all platforms viz Windows, MAC, Android, iOS etc.
Using skype for business as your video conference software is good. Alernativeky, you may also consider sing alernative sliek on prmeise R-HUB HD video conferencing servers http://www.rhubcom.com/v5/video-conferencing.html. It works on all platforms lus provides 30 way HD video conferencing.
The way the Zoom Room feature works is that it has its own account - by 'booking' the conference room in the company calendar, the zoom unit in the room is linked to the meeting.
Granted - it's more for video conferencing than wireless projection, but it is great at both.
More info: https://zoom.us/zoomrooms
FWIW, I've found that it's easier to get buy-in when pitching a solution that integrates with something folks are already familiar with using.
When we finally got approval for piloting Hangouts/Meet conferencing units in two conference rooms, they were an instant hit. Only took a few months of execs fighting over priority before we got budget for install them building-wide (15 rooms total).
Only specific ones. Unfortunately they (Matterport) has an overly broad patent on the technology that uses the 360 images to generate a 3d mesh. That patent has effectively given them a monopoly on the market. Another company (GeoCV) had a similar system but Matterport sued them — the litigation drove them out of business.
That said, they have made a great product, that is still best in class, but you are at their mercy when it comes to supported cameras and systems. I use their free tier which lets you have 1 active plan at a time and as many inactive ones as you want. I just toggle them on and off since we don't share/publish them.
On the software part you may check TrueConf Server University, that’s a free on-premises video collaboration platform specifically designed for the U.S. higher ed institutions. There’s a built-in SIP/H.323 gateway, screen sharing, whiteboarding, chat, server-side recording, webinars and more.
Disclosure: vendor speaking
Yodeck can do this. For resellers using it for audio-only, there is a 50% discount on top of volume discounts. We have a few thousands working for in-store music.
Vendor speaking.
Try out Yodeck. An annual subscription will get you the hardware for free (Raspberry Pi 4 - 2GB). You can also add a PoE HAT and power those from your PoE switch. They are really small and can drive any kind of screen, even direct view LED billboards. The user interface is really easy to use, you can try it - the service is free for managing a single screen. Although there is a monthly fee involved, it is really low (pricing) and you do not have to pay upfront for the hardware.
Disclosure: Vendor speaking
Check out Yodeck. Supports Powerpoint, Videos , Images, website, have a countdown Widget (among others), ready to use templates, etc. It is easily managed through a cloud dashboard. An annual subscription ($7.99/month per screen x 12) gets you the required Player for free (RPi4). You can try it for free for a single screen to make sure it works for you.
We provide cloud digital signage based on the RPi4. Cost is $96/year per screen, hardware included for free. We build Yodeck exactly for the reason you mention; make it affordable for small businesses.
OK I understand now. Knowing your situation, and since you provided some additional requirements absolutely changes things. I was going to suggest that most modern platforms are beginning to support automatic transcription.
Zoom has it native now, but I had previously used Otter.ai which records audio + transcribes. The nice thing about otter is it attempts to identify and separate speakers which you can go back and name later and their interface is the best I've used personally to make it easy to clean up notes and recordings in sync. I used it for a conference but remembered thinking of how nice it would be to use for business applications where rigorous notes needed to be taken.
The offline requirement is tough but the epiphan suggestion below does look good. I wonder if you could leverage otter.ai in conjunction with the epiphan to have a really nice offline but still cloud supported solution if you could coordinate upload after the fact.
Pyle has one. Here's a link to it on Amazon.
https://www.amazon.com/Pyle-PMKSH28-Suspension-Scissor-Dampening/dp/B01JH3QS1U