What are
/r/Dogtraining's
favorite Products & Services?
From 3.5 billion Reddit comments
The most popular Products mentioned in /r/Dogtraining:
The most popular Services mentioned in /r/Dogtraining:
Wayback Machine
myNoise
ResearchGate
Amazon
Google Scholar
HubPages
Kickstarter
Coursera
ScienceDirect
TinyURL
DuckDuckGo
AccuWeather
Google Docs
Microsoft Bing
eHow
The most popular Android Apps mentioned in /r/Dogtraining:
IP Webcam
Coach's Eye
Alfred Home Security Camera
The most popular reviews in /r/Dogtraining:
That’s terrible that your dog’s on trial - what’s he being accused of?
Are you looking for car sun shades? You can find them easily on Amazon, or at stores like Walmart/Target.
Safe high places for cat in main living spaces. Some cats don’t want to just escape, but rather keep an eye on things. If you install some nice high cat shelves he will be able to get around safely while not being banished to the basement.
I’m not a cat person, but I feel bad for your old guy. Spending his senior years with a puppy can be rough, then the extra stress of a breed known for its high prey drive. I hope you make accommodations for him before pup comes home.
Edit to add this link re: tether training
https://www.awdt.net/blog/the-one-thing-that-can-dramatically-improve-your-out-of-control-dog
Another edit to add this product for your basement door:
https://www.amazon.com/Door-Buddy-Adjustable-Convenient-Installation/dp/B016QT678M
You might want to post to /r/reactivedogs. A lot of people over there with good advice. Maybe get some x-pens so everyone can be together but separated. A friend sits on the sofa with one dog while her husband sits in the lazy boy with the other, a x-pen separates them. Sounds weird, but everyone is happy and there's no stress. Not saying it will be that way forever for you but a good why to keep the peace while everything is worked out.
https://smile.amazon.com/Pet-Trex-30-Playpen-Panels/dp/B00F97RJH6
That's a good start!
General confidence building is also going to be great so I've found the best way to go about that is with training and with puzzle toys actually (they learn that they can interact with the environment and control it which is generally something that gives dogs confidence)
Something else that might be great is "station training", so basically teaching your dog to lay down on a mat or bed or similar and have them just chill there.
For some separation distress, I would also start trying to work on that. I have to admit, I haven't read these books in a while, but if I recall I'll Be Home Soon by Patricia McConnell was a good intro (I've gotta get back up to date on the most recent separation anxiety books... I haven't read any since I worked through it with my dog)
Do note that basically anything in separation anxiety is going to really talk about how your dog cannot be left alone, and for the best way to train - they're totally right. But we're human and often have limited funds and resources so a good way to help mitigate some of the issue is to have a "bad place" where you'll leave the dog when you have to leave and the training isn't that long yet and then a "good place" which is the place you eventually want to leave them long-term and only put them in the "good place" when you can work on the separation anxiety training.
I store mine in a Vittles Vault. Airtight, keeps pests away, easy to open, easy to clean. Keeps food fresh. You should be able to find something similar on Amazon or at your local pet store.
Span a line between two trees, higher up (like a zip line), and add a leash to it that can slide from one end to the other.
Edit: looks like this setup is called Overhead Trolley and there are various kits to do it, e.g. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002ARRYA/
Edit: I think this is what you have but it’s incorrectly set up.
It's much more likely that the dog was giving signs it was uncomfortable and it wasn't recognized until too late. A neighbor called me in a panic after their JRT bit their grandchild. They said he was so friendly and loved the kids, then just out of the blue lashed out. I watched the video they sent of the kids sitting with the dog watching TV. The dog displayed one sign after another that it was uncomfortable but they weren't pay attention or didn't know. I recommend this book for anyone with a dog. It helps explain a dogs natural language. https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/1929242360
It helps tremendously to have it recorded on vid so you can rewatch it 2-3 times. To catch the complete bodylanguage of a dog in real life situation is - at least for me - alot harder. Since I started to record my pup in situations im unsure about what's going on I could nearly always deceiver it.
For everyone who wants to know more I really can recommend "Doggie Language" by Lili Chin. It explains body langue with Comics. It may look like nothing special but to me it is the book that makes the whole thing super approachable. It will tell you alot more than books with pictures or any YouTube videos. For me the best book you could have on that topic. The ebook is 7$. If you have a dog he should be worth it.
Never correct a growl. It’s not the first sign of aggression, it’s the first sign of being uncomfortable. She’s asking for you to back off.
This book helped me learn to understand my dog.
On Talking Terms With Dogs Calming Signals https://www.amazon.com/dp/1929242360
Will you have a yard? I don't have this issue, but I do have two fearful dogs. When I moved I brought them to the house a couple of times before anything was moved in to let them run around and explore. It was just an empty place to them. It didn't have the typical emotional attachments, it was just play. Maybe doing something like that introduces the space as neutral ground. Not sure it will work or stick, but might be worth a shot if you think it would be safe.
I have plenty of friends who need to separate their dogs. We call it living in a gated community. They use x-pens to keep them in the same room but separated. Either by setting it up as a play are or for dividing a room.
https://smile.amazon.com/MidWest-Foldable-Metal-Exercise-Playpen/dp/B000H8YTJI
It will absolutely work, but at the point that she's crying/whining, you've probably already pushed it to far. You definitely want to start at home and then graduate to familiar places. This might just be your front yard or stoop. Maybe a patch of quiet grass along your normal walk, etc.
Something that worked pretty well for my easily overstimulated dog was having a designated "mat". For him, I just got this because I could take it literally everywhere without much hassle. I started at home and basically made laying on that mat the best thing ever. I got him to the point where he would barely let me pull it out before he's already trying to step on it. Then if he started to be distracted or overstimulated while we were out somewhere, out would come the mat and he'd know exactly what to do.
He's pretty good at it now (or was, before quarantine) but I definitely missed the signs of overstimulation a few times and had to completely leave an area to get him to calm. You want to avoid crossing that threshold whenever possible, but it can take some practice.
More specifically, for an example, I use these:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00QFS2UQI/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
They act like plastic but supposedly degrade after 24 months.
Stop picking him up unnecessarily, stop taking him to places where he cant be on the floor because he hasn't had his shots, stop introducing him to random people. Bring him home, let him chill in his house.
Stop yelling at him and spraying him and messing with him when he eats.
I honestly don't know where to begin because so much of what you are doing appears to be stressing your dog out that it's impossible to tell what to be concerned about and what is simply him reacting to you and all of the stress in his environment. The good news is that there is so much going on that is not very good for the puppy that I expect that if you change those things it will go a long way towards improving his behavior.
I would find a trainer who has some educational background in training. There is no real certification process so anyone can call themselves a trainer, and that's the type of trainer it seems you have been going to.
Positive reinforcement is realistic, and is not going to create the kind of aggressive responses you are getting currently. I would also recommend picking up the book Puppy Start Right. It's an easy read with lots of good training exercies in it. If you find a trainer that isn't using the same basic techniques, find another trainer.
You can do it at home, or you can take a class. I personally recommend a class, but I understand that the cost might be off-putting, especially because it's not a "necessary" class. Barn hunt might also work very well for you two.
https://fenzidogsportsacademy.com/index.php/courses/14305
And I'm sure there are lots of resources on YouTube!
Of course! I bought this one on Amazon. I mainly fill it with bottles of water if we go on longer walks or sandbags if I don't have anything else on hand (I just fill ziploc bags with dirt in the yard lol), then weigh it on the scale to make sure I don't overdo it.
He's resource guarding, and it looks like he's far more concerned about his toys getting taken away than food. As inappropriate as the behavior is in our human world, please understand that resource guarding is quite natural for dogs. A predator that doesn't have a predisposition to guard its resources probably doesn't last long in the wild.
I second the recommendation for "Mine!" by Jean Donaldson. She explains the concept of resource guarding, the whys and the hows, and outlines some practical exercises that you can use to help your dog understand that you're not a threat to his precious resources.
Get a slobber stopper bowl, you can find on Amazon. Fixed my 5 month puppy that had the same problem instantly, she actually does better with an open bowl now too
Edited to add link, expensive but worth the lack of mess. I went from water halfway around kitchen to almost no drips.
Slopper Stopper Dripless Dog Water Bowl - Large Breed Dogs 51-85 Lbs https://www.amazon.com/dp/B079P67QT8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_OAGSCbE3CAYB7
I love that he has the face and head of a dog way bigger than he is. Good boy! My pup knows yellow duck and it makes me so excited when I tell him to get it and he does. I should work on some others.
BTW: Yellow ducks have survived three of my aussies. One for each of them. The only toy none of them have ever destroyed. I replace them because they just get gross after a couple years. They aren't tough toys. I don't have any idea why they last. But none of my pups have ever town theirs up. Each of them coveted theirs.
Not necessary, no. Train in ways that are useful or enriching for you & your dog. If you don't intend to compete in obedience or need intense focus, /shrug there's no requirement to teach a strict heel.
Even if you do teach heel, IMO it shouldn't be used for the entire walk. It's a short burst of focus, not all of the walk every walk. Smelling things is really important to dogs, especially scent hound types. This is an interesting book on the subject: https://www.amazon.com/Being-Dog-Following-World-Smell/dp/1476795991
I usually only ask my dogs to walk next to me or follow me for short periods (and even that isn't really a strict "heel" with prolonged attention...just loose leash walking and matching my pace) when we're in crowded areas where they shouldn't stop and sniff. When we're in safe areas with enough space, they wander around to sniff freely. I don't follow them if they pull, so they don't pull.
For a dog that likes to sniff, the best piece of advice I ever got was to put "go sniff" on cue so you can use it as a reward. After your dog pays you some attention or walks with you for a bit, encourage him to "go sniff" in a safe spot as a reward. If he finds a scent he wants to track, perhaps you could ask him for a little engagement (a sit, brief eye contact, etc) first and then reward by following him as he tracks?
My trainer recommended these camping squeeze bottles. I use it with Easy Cheese, and fill it about half way so the bottle can fit in my pocket. It works great to squeeze out just a tiny amount of cheese and let my pup lick the opening for the treat. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001V9IOKC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_6jgoBbF3X6T8C
Become a human PEZ dispenser.
Whenever you enter a room that the dog is in, gently toss treats towards her without looking at her, speaking to her, or acknowledging her in any way. Ideally, you'd want to do this when she isn't barking or anything, but in the initial stages this might be hard to avoid.
You want her to view you as something to look forward to. When you're around, treats rain from the sky. Try to use something high value, like hot dogs, cheese, or a diced food roll, but check with her owner about any food allergies or sensitivities first. You can buy a treat pouch or just have a ziplock bag or something to keep with you.
Let her approach you (if it's a positive interaction), or ignore her otherwise. If she isn't comfortable with you, she's not going to want you approaching her.
As things get better, you can speak with your roommate about aiding in some of her care, should you be up to it. The dog definitely isn't your responsibility, so don't feel obligated, but helping to give the dog proper care can help to alleviate any behavioral problems. If you're not comfortable leaving the apartment with her, look into clicker training (Zak George on YouTube) and puzzle toys, like the Kong Wobbler to provide mental stimulation, which can be just as beneficial as physical exercise.
This is awesome! Congrats on being such an awesome dog parent and not just forcing her to suffer through it, getting more and more fearful every time. We are working on nail trims now and it’s going really well. We use this book — have you used it before?
We have one of these for our toddler...works great even on adults!
https://smile.amazon.com/Safety-1st-Secure-Mount-Deadbolt/dp/B00BBF7UVA?sa-no-redirect=1
FYI - The pins that hold the latches in place eventually walk out. I put some tape over them and then make sure they stay in place every few weeks.
My dog loves this toy by kong https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00KQL814U/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_sBQCCbJJMSCSE Had it for months and he can’t get into it. It squeaks and has ball in it too. Comes in range of sizes too. Kong do decent toys he goes through the stuffed ones pretty quickly but the rubber ones he struggles with and the one I linked it’s the only toy I’ve had that’s defeated him because of the shape. He tries to chew it but can’t get purchase on it. But he can bite it enough for it to squeak.
get one of these things so the cat can go in and out but not your dog
So I also have a Sam puppy who is now 9 months old. She also dislikes the brush. The Samoyed combs you'll need are a slicker brush and and a metal comb with wide teeth.. Undercoat Rakes are also recommended, but my girl doesn't really like it.
If the tangles are traumatizing him, a puppy detangling spray can help too. We got the Paul Mitchell one, but I noticed it had a lot of essential oils in it, which aren't great for dogs. So I don't have any real recommendations there.
If he has mats from the history of neglect, just cut them out. Ideally, Sams shouldn't be trimmed ever, but if he's already afraid of grooming, pulling out mats will just make it worse.
For my girl, she gets a bully stick or a dental treat (something that takes a while to chew) which is held in front of her, while I use my other hand to start gently combing. It's been a daily routine since she was teeny, and while she doesn't like it, she tolerates it as long as there's treats.
Sometimes, she'll tolerate it when she's half asleep also. So sleepy brushing might work.
Potty bells can help with the bathroom signal. I just instructed my girl to boop them with her nose (by holding a treat behind the bells) every time we left for a potty break. She picked it up after a while, and then started ringing them on her own when she wanted to go out. Eventually we phased out the bells, and she just stands by the door and barks when she wants out.
Hope that helps!
Two years old is very commonly the age when insecurity starts to crystallize into aggressive behavior. Aggression has lots of little signals along the way before this phase, but you simply didn't have the tools to recognize it. So, I suggest studying dog body language. While consulting a behaviorist to tutor you in this endeavor will certainly speed up the learning process, you can start this on your own. Long term, learning to read your dog yourself is always the most effective solution because you're the one with him/her all the time. Consider, though, that you'll also need to learn to read other dogs' body language so you can spot the personality-types and body language that make are most compatible with your own dog.
Here are some recommendations:
Turid Rugaas - "Calming Signals: What Your Dog Tells You"
And, a subscription to Tawzer Dog, or something like it. These streaming services provide access to a library of dog training educational seminars.
Hope this helps!
I am super jealous of dog owners who can chuck-it a ball, and their dog sprints after it and brings it back...rinse and repeat. Curse them!
This is about using the two week shut down to help dogs deal with a huge life changing event.
http://www.bigdogsbighearts.com/2_week_shutdown0001.pdf
I wish I would have used it with my boys. One didn't leave my kitchen for 6 months and didn't go into the family room for almost a year. Didn't go outside for a year and a half. I realize now that in the first couple of weeks he was trying to adjust and I was trying to get him to act like a normal dog. Respect that they all deal with stress in different ways and give him time to work at his own speed. I used a crate and x-pen to give him his own space after I finally caught on that he needed more time.
https://smile.amazon.com/MidWest-Foldable-Exercise-Pen-Playpen/dp/B000H8YTJI
Right now he is laying on the back of the sofa looking for belly rubs.
I have this snuffle mat , it’s soft cloth so my dog loves it because she can snuggle around and hide stuff in it and she gets to “bury” it. She also loves to lie on it like a dragon on its hoard lol. You could make shift something sort of similar just by just bunching up a big cloth so it’s loose but got folds for her to snuffle into. Good luck and update us !
First and foremost--I hear you, I understand how hard it is, and it is very good that you are willing to try and find a solution.
To follow, this is a young labrador, a breed known for both food drive and cleverness. If you cannot contain them and cannot watch them, I recommend crate training. Or an x-pen. Or a small room with baby gates. Crates being preferable. Also, give him a job--feed his meals out of a ball he has to roll around to get the kibble or stuff kongs and freeze them so he has to slowly lick the filling out. (A two birds solution because not only is it time consuming but licking is a known destressor action for dogs--it calms them)
But on a practical level, insatiable hunger can be a sign of diabetes or hyperthyroidism in young dogs. I would recommend you asking your vet to do some urinalysis to make sure there's no sign of diabetes and a blood panel to see if his thyroid is functioning.
I would start with a clear bill of health and starting with feeding via toy and crating when you cannot watch him--recommend a feeder ball when you can watch him and a stuffed kong toy when he is crated.
There's special bars you can get that attach to your bike that can help. My husband uses one for our dog when they go on bike rides.
This is the one he uses:
It can be very difficult to guess accurately from appearance! Although I see why that is your guess.
If you are very curious and have some disposable income, you could try one of these genetic testing kits for dogs: https://www.amazon.com/Wisdom-Identification-Canine-Genetic-Ancestry/dp/B01EHX2BH0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1550434658&sr=8-1&keywords=dog+genetic They are pretty easy to use and reasonably accurate. If your dog has a very mixed genetic background (ie even her grandparents were all mixed breeds) it will not be able to tell you very well what all the different breeds are, but in most situations it will at least have some relatively close guesses. As long as you know it's mostly for fun and curiosity, the kits are easy to use and interesting.
Very pretty dog, I hope you have a long and happy friendship!
Would he be able to have something like this: http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005CUU25G?pc_redir=1411126961&robot_redir=1
or this
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ENM3G6Q/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_V2fjub1WCHYX2 ?
Dog walker here. Pet safe has a new design that I like better than the Easy Walk, the 3in1. It eliminates the problems I found in the Easy walk and most other front hook harnesses: riding down in the front and irritating some dogs behind their front legs.
We had the same problem with our Rotty mix. Most of the Kong toys lasted but JW Chompion Dog Chew Toy... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002DJWUY?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share Was the one thing he keeps playing with. Get some small dreambones and shove in the ends. Hard to remove but keeps them interested.
Although you sound like a very enthusiastic dog owner, I don't think a cocker spaniel is a good choice for your family.
Here's why:
their hair has no terminal length. This means frequent brushing and seasonal haircuts, and they shed. Not nearly as bad as other dogs, but they do.
you can not wash a dog every time they go outside. No matter how gentle the shampoo, it wrecks their skin. Cockers already have skin issues, this is a terrible idea.
boots for a dog all the time? That's absurd. Besides, Cockers have long toe hair.
If your mom is that bad of a neat freak, a puppy is most definitely not the right choice for your family. A cocker is even worse. My suggestion to you is to look into adopting an older dog and look into very short, smooth haired breeds. A rescued/retired greyhound seems like it would fit the bill perfectly.
Also, there is a new sub, puppy 101 that can answer a lot of these questions for you and get you and your new dog started on the right foot.
She also has books you can read.
I remember trying out Cesar's methods as a teen and ended up holding my poor dog to the ground to "dominate" him and feeling so bad that I shied away from "how to teach my dog x" google searches for years and ended up neglecting my dogs. I reacted this way because I suffered childhood abuse, but I have to say that now that I understand my abusive parent's need for control, he creeps me out even more. I remember watching videos where he claimed unconditional love is the last thing a dog really needs. I'm reminded, there are books on childrearing like To train up a child that are obvious bullshit and they show that not everyone who puts themselves out there as an expert is even basically sane.
https://www.amazon.com/Quiet-Spot-Pet-Silencer-Black/dp/B0017JE522
I just don't think you can win this battle; best thing you can do is mute the noise the tags make. Neutering may help a lot more than anything else.
Hey! This is the link to the gate that was finally able to stand up to my houdini hound who had the same issue in our apartment! Good luck! Regalo Deluxe Easy Step Extra... https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B001OE1PC8?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
How about a top entry litter box? Should allow the cat entry but block out your pup? It gives the cat privacy too, haha.
Petmate Top Entry Litter Pan https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KVL30NC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_oghBBbHGWRWS0
My terrier mix puppy rips every single plush to shreds within minutes or hours of getting it except this stuffed duck which has lasted two and a half weeks so far and is still fully intact. I don't know if it's the texture of it or what. Clearly by the reviews, some dogs are still destroying it, but I've been super impressed with what it has survived so far and it's her go to toy and gets roughed up a lot. I've also heard good things about the softer toys from the Bark Box Destroyers Club.
Have you thought about a pill gun? Don't know how it will work with the geometry of a bulldog, but it might be worth a try.
This really is too long to leave a puppy alone without interaction/engagement. They do need lots of sleep but there is also an incredibly important socialization window and period of time when they can be exposed to things and not fear them that you need to be able to facilitate, and it doesn’t sound like your schedule will readily allow for that. You would be able to meet the best needs of an adult dog much, much better than a puppy. Have you had a puppy before? The puppy blues are a real thing, they make people come in all the dog subs the day after they got the puppy all the way out to 6 months after they got the puppy tearing their hair out and asking if it ever gets better. And it does… but then they go through adolescence and they forget half the stuff you trained them and they start inventing new behaviors you don’t like. Make sure you do a search for “puppy blues” in the various subreddits so you know what you’re in for.
And, if you’re dead set on getting a puppy, you should be willing to read the latest-and-greatest about puppy socialization from reputable trainers and research: $9.99 ebook - Puppy Socialization: What It is and How to Do It”
Then, watch Kikopup’s Puppy Playlist: Dog Training by Kikopup: Complete Guide to Puppy Training Playlist - What to Train First, What to Know
If you are confident then that you want a puppy, you will be very well-informed at that point and will know exactly what you have to look for in a pet service besides just pee breaks for a puppy that age, and won’t need our advice anymore.
If you realize that you would rather postpone having to do THAT MUCH for a tiny animal that’s dependent on you for a later point in your life, then look into adopting an adult dog who would be so happy to have a home :)
As a current dog owner, I’m like “what’s the big deal”. But as a lifelong neat freak, it would piss me off. The only time I’ll throw a poop bag in someone else’s trash is if it’s the night before garbage comes the next morning. I feel your pain though, nobody wants to walk around with diddy bombs lol. I had my dog for about a week before ordering these, game changer: Panykoo Dog Poop Bag Holder,Hands Free Waste Bag Carrier Poop Bag Holder for Leash,Adjustable Waste Bag Holder Fit Any Leash https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08XWM18W6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_9XRVE9VMR4TEX2Y8CDYT?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I’m no dog trainer but had similar issues with my 80lb dog who scared the pants off of everyone with her excitement. She’s improved a lot with the engage/disengage game (the PDF on that website is what I learned with), and mat training described in this book. The mat training is basically relaxation practice that helped her learn she could self-regulate her stimulation. It was amazing to see how she applied it in all kinds of situations without us working on them directly (but we also used it to work on specific triggers too). Engage/disengage starts at home in a chill environment then escalates up to walks where you’ll encounter dogs and people. She still gets ramped up with other dogs sometimes, but walking is nice for me now, not stressful.
I'm smirking while reading this comment because my dog is the exact same way. It's like he "Zens" out on the appendages he chews until they fall off and then he begins tearing the hole open so he can stick his little nose in and pull out that sweet sweet stuffing. There is nothing more satisfying to him that pulling out that white stuff.
I found a brand of dog toys called goDog on amazon that make "stuffies" with "chew gaurd" which is a kevlar style mesh. It takes a lot longer and a lot more work to completely destroy the toy... instead of 10 minutes, the toy last weeks.
Here's a link to my dog's favorite toy. All those little appendages to nibble off...
goDog Fuzzy Wuzzy with Chew Guard Small, Lamb https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001MTVOX0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_vdnx3bnwaQ7eE
Call the company back and ask what removal of the pesticide will cost. There's a good chance your dog is right to avoid it.
A little info: http://www.nrdc.org/health/pesticides/
Any time the context changes from where the dog learned a behavior, they may lose their training because they don't understand that it applies or how it applies in that new situation. Being in a different than normal (even if not new) place is a super common cause for dogs to lose housetraining - they just need to be taught the rules for this house as well.
You can use the interest in sniffing out toads to your advantage (though keep in mind some species are poisonous, double check it's safe first) by keeping them on a short leash and ideally away from where the toads congregate if you can avoid it. Once he goes to the bathroom, praise, and then release him to have fun in the yard.
If it's not safe or you just don't want him chasing the toads, you can reward with play time instead. If they like chasing moving things, a flirt pole (just an example, I don't know anything about that brand and made mine out of PVC / rope) might give them a good outlet and be a lot of fun for both of you. Put it away when not rewarding with it so it retains a lot of value to your dog. :)
Look into resources by Malena Demartini--she is the industry expert in separation anxiety in dogs. She will have step-by-step protocols for you to follow.
Basically, as someone already pointed out, you have to train your dog to learn how to be alone and teach him that it's okay. You can only do this by slowly (and nonlinearly) increasing the amount of time you leave while keeping him under threshold.
You have to empathize with your dog. Yes, the barking is a problem, but it's a symptom of a much more sinister condition--your dog is legitimately anxious about being left alone, and in order to address the barking, you have to teach your dog to be comfortable on his own.
It won't be easy, but if you can fix the problem, you're going to feel so accomplished, and you and your dog will be in a much better place.
Good luck!
Look into materials by Malena DeMartini--she is considered the industry's expert in separation anxiety.
Ditch the vibrating bark collar--many dogs find them aversive (either that or they're just inconsequential), and it's quite possible that it can exacerbate the situation. Think about it this way: Your dog is legitimately anxious about you being gone. The bark collar creates an unpleasant stimulation anytime she cries out for you in desperation. If you were in pain or discomfort, and you tried to call for help, and were jolted with an unpleasant/annoying vibration around your neck any time you tried, would that lessen your anxiety? Nope. If anything, you might just stop asking for help (which is why some people say bark collars are successful in reducing unwanted behavior).
ACDs probably need more stimulation than what you're giving her. They're working dogs. I would consider heavy mental stimulation instead of just walks/runs. Look into training, food puzzles, activities that really work her brain. You can also look into agility or other dog sports. Oftentimes, mental stimulation is even more exhausting than physical exercise.
Trixie Gambling Tower, Level 1 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002XCTUIQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_RaTKCb00TS8BH
Trixie Pet Products Flip Board, Level 2 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0054Q9TMA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_sbTKCbJ0E39TV
Maybe terribly stupid but try sunglasses in the meantime whilst waiting for help? Eg. Namsan Dog Goggles Anti-UV Pet Sunglasses Waterproof Windproof Eye Protection for Large/Medium Dog https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07CWQL2KD/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_i_M5PH9E531QWHQTK9DCA7?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I won't speak on the free feeding part, because there are already a lot of opinions, but I do have a book rec: The Culture Clash by Jean Donaldson. (I would link like I usually do with book recs but I'm on mobile sorry) The end of that book especially explains a lot of dos and don'ts, and has instructions for teaching basic obedience behaviors like sit, down, and stay (with positive methods, but with or without a clicker, which I like because not everyone likes to use clickers). The whole book is mostly about dog/human misunderstandings, but I think it is a good "beginner's guide" per se.
Anything by Karen Pryor is good if you are interested in clicker training. She and other trainers she works with have also published puppy raising manuals that may be with checking out.
Edit: also this book by Ian Dunbar: https://www.amazon.com/dp/1577314557/ref=cm_sw_r_udp_awd_I2vVtb0MY50191XV?ie=UTF8 Dude is like the father of positive puppy training
http://www.vocabulary.com/articles/chooseyourwords/envy-jealousy/
> It's no fun to feel envy or jealousy because both make you feel inadequate. Envy is when you want what someone else has, but jealousy is when you're worried someone's trying to take what you have. If you want your neighbor's new convertible, you feel envy. If she takes your husband for a ride, you feel jealousy.
We bought our puppy a plush toy off of Amazon which has a heart beat and a warming pad. It makes her feel like she's not alone in her crate. Works wonders!
https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B000NVDDXM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabc_5VFSFbSK5P7X2
I think it's just ingrained because the first thing that pops into my head is "she's trying to get away from me, I need to show her that's not possible."
Even this book I got specially for German shepherds recommends frequently picking up your puppy and cradling it in your arms on it's back and holding until it stops fighting you.. I tried it once and then realized that book was out dated.. Yet it's one of the highest rated on Amazon for German shepherds.
I'm generally extremely calm and never lose my temper, so it bothers me that I lose it over this issue.
Just don't know how else to react when the dog is hyper focused on something, already over her threshold
We live in an apartment and just adopted an 8 week doodle. My wife refused to use pee pads so instead I set up a toddler splat mat. Its designed to go under a high chair so when a toddler inevitably spills food it doesn’t go on the carpet. It’s rubberized so it’s waterproof(accidents were really easy to clean up), has a non skid surface, and machine washable. Luckily it was also the perfect size for our playpen so there’s no gaps where she can burrow under.
https://www.amazon.com/Alnoor-USA-Waterproof-Polyester-Non-Toxic/dp/B07DTHVD8Z
I hope someone has good advice on a dog bed. We've had a similar problem, and I gave up on dog beds and just bought a bunch of super-cheap blankets on amazon for our dog - like these https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00PCZLOOE/ or anything else cheap you can find. We'll fold up a couple for a bed and not worry about it too much when they get chewed up enough that they have to get thrown out.
I do worry about them eating the blanket, but so far it hasn't been a problem; our majorly chewing dog seemed to do more actual eating of dog-bed insides; with the blanket he just shreds them but doesn't swallow it.
I use Alfred https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.ivuu With some of my old Phones, got 3 setup to keep an eye when were not at home. Has push notifications when something happens so i dont have to watch it all the time. Edit: it also supports remote speech so you can tell your dog to relax :)
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07G642RMQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_imm_J103QZQ8AH06PWZV17FS I had a similar issue as OP, getting this and being able to directly reward calmness in the vehicle has been a multi month journey and totally worth it.
The one I bought is from Pebblesmart, on Amazon. It is kind of complicated looking, but basically there is an extended space for him to nose, about 4 inches wide.
Edit: https://www.amazon.com/Pebble-Smart-Doggie-Doorbell-Fuchsia/dp/B00BMUPMFA
Does she start freaking out as soon as she's in? Or is it a separation anxiety thing, so there's some delay?
I'm going to assume some things to give you some good advice.
I'm assuming, you at least leave the room before she starts freaking out. Here's some things I would try:
Accept the fact that you're going to have to replace crates, possibly for a long time it sounds like. Get the best quality crates you can afford and factor that cost into your budget. I bought a decent quality crate on Amazon for like $13 but my dog is small. Dog crate
Experiment with covering the crate with a blanket or towel. The darkness may help her relax.
Does she try to get out while your in the room? If not, try recording yourself talking/reading on a cd and set it up to play like white noise in the room. You could just loop a 15 minute clip for 4 hours straight. You could do something similar with a laptop, whatever you have for audio. Burning a cd and buying a cheap little CD player seems like the simplest solution to me. She might like some regular white noise like rushing water.
I'm with your partners opinion. Until she's comfortable in the crate, she cannot be left in a room by herself. Her behavior might escalate. I hope this helped you brainstorm some solutions! Good luck, your dog is beautiful!
I’m the exact same way! I just got my first puppy and I absolutely love him to death. I’ll be at work and get so sad because I miss my pup. He’s currently six months and has some separation anxiety so it makes me super anxious too. I just bought this camera on amazon this weekend and I’m so excited to try it out. That way I can check up on him whenever I’m at work or not with him in general! The best part is that it has two way audio so I can soothe him if he’s getting anxious and can hear if he’s barking (or tearing up his bed which has happened a few times).
I just use a clothes pin and clip it to the leash, or one of these thingamabobbers from amazon: Okydoky Dog Poop Bag Holder for Leash https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0797YJR3Q/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_xC8FOQwYBlnqb
Yours is cool though cause it holds in the stank!
I usually get it from Amazon, but Michael's/Lowes/Home Depot would likely have some as well. Any sort of plain cotton rope would work pretty well.
I usually don't go with a pattern because the thicker rope doesn't lay the same way as thin rope/yarn. The thicker the rope, the harder it is to manipulate for crochet, but it leaves a lot of holes for treats to sneak through while they're playing. Honestly, I often get really lazy about 3/4 through, and just lace the last row closed-ish ;)
Sometimes I use ribbon also - they'll destroy it faster, but they really love ribbon for some reason. Any crochet tutorial for a ball (like this one) would be a good reference for approximate inc/dec counts!
Edit: the rope also came in handy for lifting and moving their large double crate inside when it arrived. Not really relevant to toys, but it never hurts to have a bunch of rope for other stuff!
My heeler doesn't always want attention from other people when we are out and about, sometimes he does and sometimes he doesn't. He also has a very defined idea of 'personal space' which we have always respected. He can become very offended at being treated 'like a pet' by strangers. Other times, he likes a scratch on the chest.
When we go out, I put a 'nervous' patch on his leash and collar (you can find it on Amazon). Most people will respect him and give him lots of space. If he decides he wants to be pet or wants attention, people view it as a compliment and are always very gentle with him and allow him to walk away when he's done. They also seem to be a bit more aware of his body language. Win/Win. Also, when he's not in the mood, I will hold a hand up in a STOP motion and say- he's not friendly (not true but it works). If they keep coming, I will step between him and the approaching people/children and say that he's nervous and doesn't like strangers. It is my job to make sure my dog is comfortable and no one is invading his space.
The other thing we do is teach him what is and is not ok to touch with his teeth. Dogs (especially heelers in my biased opinion) are extremely smart. They can understand 'people' NO, 'toys' YES just like they understand they can herd chickens but maybe not horses. Have him teach the differentiation the same way.
We also heel very closely when in public, so try to manage people's ability to approach him that way as well.
Something else I've heard of is to have the dog carry around a favorite toy in his mouth when in public. I haven't taught this to my dog, but may in the future if this becomes an issue.
​
Hope this helps!
They are Velcro but came with the harness harness I got it because there are quite a few kids in our neighborhood who keep trying to pet him and I want him to focus! When parents see this, they usually tell Timmy to leave my dog alone haha
They sell slow water bowls on Amazon for about 14$. Either that or maybe a slow feeder bowl so it takes him longer to lap it up?
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07J4PJNZF/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_pRcuFbZTEWVX6
Look into hands-free leashes on Amazon, chewy, or through your preferred pet store! Personally, I prefer a belt leash when walking with my service dog. I end up confusing the over the shoulder one for my purse strap. But it allows me to still have usage of both hands (as much as my disability allows anyway).
Edit: This our leash for working. Even though it's from Amazon, it's a really good quality lead. I still looks brand new after two years.
When you adopt a new dog, it's highly recommended to keep the pup away from stimulation as much as possible. This is a strategy known as the "two week shutdown." Don't go on long walks/hikes, don't introduce new people. Letting someone unfamiliar interact with her while you weren't home could have made her really scared. Just think about how scary it is if you're in a brand new place with people who don't speak your language, you just underwent a big surgery and all of a sudden another brand new person tries to hang out with you. It's a lot happening at once and can make a dog (and people) feel scared!
Basically, I would take it easy for a while. Let her get to know you, and get to know her. Let her settle in and relax before introducing her to other people. When other people come, give them treats to give her, but instruct them to ignore her. Let her come to them and don't pressure her. If she makes the choice to check out a guest, the guest can give her a treat.
Also, I highly recommend reading the book the Other End of the Leash by Patricia McConnell. It is accessible and will help you interpret your dog's behavior (e.g. defensiveness vs. offensiveness) and will help you teach people how to interact with your dog (e.g. staring into a dog's eyes and approaching them from the front is a sign of aggression from a canine perspective, and yet that's how most people greet dogs).
For whatever reason not apparent to you, she has developed a strong association with peeing inside as proper behavior. Perhaps think ahead and develop a strategy to change this association in steps.
​
What might work would be something along the lines of first getting her to always use a certain area inside of the house, like a large tray with actual grass growing in it. Once she gets to where she can do that reliably, move it right next to the door. Then put an identical one just outside of the door. When you see her heading for her inside tray, rush her outside to the duplicate. Eventually, remove the indoor tray and be prepared to let her out right away to get to the new one. Gradually move that one further from the door to get to the real lawn.
​
Not sure if that's doable for you. It's just an idea, but some variation of that might help. Also check out this resource which has helped many dog owners:
https://www.amazon.com/You-Teach-Your-Eliminate-Command/dp/0961764902
​
Fyi- if your dog ends up not being cool with the booties (or eating them), they also make these stickers.
https://www.amazon.com/VALFRID-Protector-Disposable-Resistant-Replacemen/dp/B07CLJCQP3
Also paw wax, but I personally don't think the wax works very well for hot environments.
I'm from Europe, so I have a different availability, but I just searched for some on amazon and there are some that really cover everything you need. Here's a link to one on the local amazon. Look for keywords such as "complete" and "raw food diet" (even if you cook it). Personally, I buy from anifit/provital on their own website
They're dishwasher safe. I let mine soak for a few hours, clean it with a baby bottle scrubber and if its still not completely clean, I toss it in the dishwasher. Need to be careful with them-ones I though my dog had totally cleaned out ended up getting moldy inside.
Look into hands-free leashes on Amazon, chewy, or through your preferred pet store! Personally, I prefer a belt leash when walking with my service dog. I end up confusing the over the shoulder one for my purse strap. But it allows me to still have usage of both hands (as much as my disability allows anyway).
Edit: This our leash for working. Even though it's from Amazon, it's a really good quality lead. I still looks brand new after two years.
To add to what's already been said, another thing to possibly try as far as confinement is an exercise pen as opposed to a crate. My dog really didn't like being crated, but the ex pen is a big enough space that he is ok with it, and will even hang out in it when we're home, which is what you want. We started off by having his bed in it, and just having it completely open all the time (3-sided). Then he got used to having it closed also after about a week, and we haven't had any noise complaints.
Like C0iler mentioned, it seems that your pup is most likely suffering from boredom. In that case, toys like Kongs that can keep their attention for an extended period of time are great. Something we do with our dog is give him a Kong filled with peanut butter or wet dog food, along with a harder treat (like a bone or bully stick) inside, that has been frozen in the freezer so that it will last longer. This can keep a dog's attention for quite a while. If you're going to have the dog in an open area, you can maybe hide a couple around in different places to add to the game.
Finally, if it is possibly an anxiety thing, make sure that your return home is always an extremely positive experience for the dog. Even if you can see massive destruction upon entry, try to be happy to see the dog so they can associate your return with a positive experience, which lessens the anxiety. If you get mad right away, odds are they didn't do the bad thing recently enough to associate the yelling with that, and only associate it with your return, so they learn that you leave, and then will eventually come home and yell at them, which can increase the anxiety.
You got it :) So, I have a short fence and tall dogs. I went to Walmart and bought the bamboo panels and it was enough. Bamboo Fence
They make bowls designed to slow down fast eaters. You could also try a food puzzle to slow him down and to give him some fun.
I also say that Science Diet is crap, I worked for a vet who actually appeared in their commercials. The company paid him a lot of money and even he wouldn't feed it to his dogs.
Also, I'm switching my cats over to wet food and I totally sympathize, there have been times I've had to leave the room to avoid gagging.
Hey there, doesn't really have too much to update seeing how I was on a business trip for the last week and a half and dropped my dog off with family instead of using a kennel. As since Mishka was held in a boarding facility before adoption, she really doesn't like kennels...
But hey, seemed to be a good week, as she wasn't my problem anymore /s. Family didn't really use the training techniques that my trainer has been instructing me with, so I had to berate them a couple of times (Ceasar this and Ceasar that... "you pinch my dog and we'll see what happens when I get back" seemed to get the point across). And she still reacts the same way to other dogs, but at the very least I didn't make any steps back by boarding her in a kennel.
On the topic for today, unfortunately my dog is a single dog. And I don't know of anyone with a "friendly" dog that would be willing to put up with mine and attempt to be a role model. Hopefully I can work with Mishka to improve her behavior to the point where meeting another dog wouldn't be a pipe dream, but we'll see...
Side note: If you have a GSD, don't forget to pack a brush for them. Here is 1.5 weeks of hair accumulation from one side, when she wasn't shedding her undercoat...
Not directly answering your question, but also read up on Prey Drift.
It's probably best to not let the Am Staff play with the Pom unless closely monitored.
Whether using pain to train is right or wrong is a philosophical debate. Whether using pain to correct aggression is safe or effective is an empirical question and here is some data.
Sorry for the long reply on the other comment. I mistook you for the OP.
Current version:
https://dogsthat.com/crate-games-2/
Some libraries have the DVD version as well.
Amazon has the DVD for about $35. Very easy to resale in the dog community once you're done training.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0013GJJG6/ref=cm_sw_r_u_apa_glt_fabc_SXWCG2NRKY151H3XQXHJ
It might not help you this eve unfortunately, but I have heard good things about these and we picked one up for when our pup comes home.
It might help to play with him a bit to tire him out.
I am planning on spending the first night or two (and potentially longer) sleeping by our pup to help her adjust to spending time away from her family so that might be one option.
I'm not a professional by any means, but I'll give you my two cents.
I am nervous for your son and future child. Even if your young pit has never acted aggressively toward your son, it's possible that your kids (or even you) could get caught in the crossfire one day.
I don't think you have to rehome your dog, but if you choose not to, you need to be extremely vigilant in training and/or management of the situation. I would consider hiring a behaviorist, someone who really knows what they're doing with resource guarding and aggression.
I would also highly recommend getting "Mine!" by Jean Donaldson, just so you can understand resource guarding and, in theory, how to address it.
If you don't think think you want to work with your young pit or if you're afraid that management might be too much, I think rehoming is something you should at least consider. My opinion would probably change if you didn't have young kids, but safety is number one.
In the meantime, this is the best urine cleaner I have ever used. https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00CKFL93K/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc_R0DH292F988YW0DTN2V1
I like that the smell is minty instead of floral. In the past I've used other products and I've mentally associated the perfume smell with urine but this smell is distinct enough.
I use this door buddy strap thing and it works great and takes up less room than a baby gate! It's been surprisingly durable for such a simple contraption
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B07QP1BTCV/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc_AG328X5A9MNEQ9R4GFE1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1 this one has been amazing for us! I love the traffic handle and the padded loop but my girl also tends to escape from traditional clasps so the carabiner on the end is great!
Redbarn 3 to 6" Filled Dog Bones (Peanut Butter, Cheese N' Bacon, Beef), Natural Long-Lasting Dental Treats; Suitable for Aggressive Chewers. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000633Y4A/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_32SDGS39BV3TGN586H2T
I have four pitties and they also chew/eat soft toys. This is a great toy to me bc once they get the filling out you can refill. Also, they will last a really long time. It’s been about a year since my last order.
LumoLeaf Dog Water Bowl, Dog Bowl No-Spill Pet Water Bowl, Slow Water Feeder Dog Bowl, Vehicle Carried Dog Water Bowl for Dogs/Cats/Pets https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07JHTKQNK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_RSDA6NMF80BTY1NWR33E?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
This really helped with my golden who used to have the same issue!
I absolutely think it can be confusing to a dog learning the clicker the have SOME clicks not result in a treat (other dog gets it) and some that do.
There is a clicker specifically invented for this issue.
Please try this dual sound clicker before giving up.
The issue with self retracting leashes are that there is constant pressure on the dogs collar or harness, which then teaches them to ignore pressure (and therefore that pulling on normal walks is okay).
You can get long lines for dogs which are essentially very long lightweight leashes which may be more suitable - something like below. You can get these from 5m to 30m+ so you can decide how much freedom your dog will need.
Your dog is reactive towards other dogs. Here's a post I wrote about reactivity.
Stop petting him. It's your fault he bites you: your dog likely gave you many warning signs before biting that he's uncomfortable with the petting. Dogs have more subtle signs of discomfort - such as averting their eyes, yawning, lip licking, whale eye. You kept petting him anyways. Then he growls. For some reason you keep petting him anyways. Then he escalates and bites. He gave you warnings before the bite and you didn't respect any of them. Learn about dog body language. Lili Chin has a book called Doggie Language and illustrations. If you keep ignoring it, he could escalate to a serious bite. If this behaviour is sudden, consider going to the vet to rule out physical pain.
The Freedom Harness and Easy Walk definitely fit my dog very differently, so yes if the EW isn't a good fit I think the FH is worth a try. Another option to consider though is covering the lower strap of the EW with something soft to see if that takes care of the chafing. I'm lazy so I bought this off Amazon but I'm sure it would be easy to DIY too.
What a cute puppy!
This is the leash that I use: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01DJ0N1KS/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I ordered it back in August and the padded handles are a nice little touch. I'm not sure why it is unavailable on amazon now. Maybe you can find it elsewhere using keywords in the description
I have 2 poodle mixes, and I also work from home, and these guys also bark at every freakin' noise in the apartment hallway. After years of trial and error, here is what works best for me; hopefully it'll work for you too.
white noise machine. They are super small and super cheap on amazon and it helps drown out both noise in the hallway and noise of them barking. plus the noise reduction on most phones/microphones take out the noise of the machine
desensitization - I've done a ton of this with them. Hell I even recorded the sound of the elevator door opening, and played that back to them non stop to desensitize them to the sound.
frozen raw bones - they love it. they'll chew that thing for at least 40mins with no sound, and it's good for their teeth
walks don't do anything.. i go to the off leash park and have them run around lots. bonus points if they wet, because their energy goes into keeping themselves warm, and they have less energy later for barking
I routinely put them in a room somewhere and shut the door, then I go into my room and shut the door. Between the noise machine (which I put by the entrance) and another door in the way, they can't hear much
I'm also super, super ashamed to say it, and it goes against all the best dog training knowledge and philosophy.. they they have vibrating collars that vibrate when they bark. Alone this doesn't work, but this little extra bit of positive punishment along with a ton of positive reinforcement (like the video above) seems to do the trick
I use a headset for when I'm on the phone, with a very accessible mute button on the cord. I'm on mute pretty much anytime I'm not talking.
Came with the boyfriend, but you can get pretty big jugs on Amazon
I buy it from Amazon. A bottle lasts almost a year. I only give it for breakfast not dinner. Half pump for pups full pump for adults
Pure Wild Alaskan Salmon Oil for Dogs & Cats - Supports Joint Function, Immune & Heart Health - Omega 3 Liquid Food Supplement for Pets - All Natural EPA + DHA Fatty Acids for Skin & Coat - 32 FL OZ https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00WZZQ46C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_g8.OAb3HV1PNG