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Yes, you have dirty power. But if I understand it correctly, the previous comment is not entirely accurate.
APC is a company that makes UPS's, or uninterruptible power supplies.
However, that's all just minutiae. Point is the one linked in the previous comment does not have AVR, which is Automatic Voltage Regulation. That is what you want to protect your sensitive electronics from inconsistent line voltage which you are describing.
In the link above, there are comparison UPS's with AVR. That will actually help you. Also, amazon sells an APC line conditioner that only does the AVR part with no battery. It is cheaper, like $60. link note that this one is 220v, make sure you get 110v if in the USA.
If you have the extra $80, instead of that AVR only item, a UPS with AVR will protect you from longer brown outs(UPS via battery) and short term spikes and low voltages (AVR using circuitry).
Edit: clarity, though not sure if this was very clear at all so.
TL;DR: AVR is the important thing for you. You can get just an AVR box, or you can get a UPS with AVR. A UPS without AVR may not help you at all.
Get a Kill-A-Watt, or a smart/wifi plug where the app measures consumption.
P3 P4460 Kill-A-Watt(Tm) Ez https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01IE05C82/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_A749ZR9X0RV6KT8ER3HC
Kasa Smart Plug Mini with Energy Monitoring, Smart Home Wi-Fi Outlet Works with Alexa, Google Home & IFTTT, Wi-Fi Simple Setup, No Hub Required (KP115), White – A Certified for Humans Device https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08LN3C7WK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_FFA8YTAHC8WCSJ25QP40
No. It needs to have a strain relief. You can replace the entire cord for under $20... https://www.amazon.com/Power-Tool-Replacement-Cords-10FT/dp/B07N8L76LX/ref=sr_1_14?dchild=1&keywords=drill+power+cord&qid=1599079835&sr=8-14
Ah, that would do it. The phone converts the voltage after receiving the power from the USB jack.
So you need to measure on or near the USB jack. For example, at the joint in your cable at the phone end, or on the solder joints where the connector is mounted to the motherboard.
I would seriously consider just buying these, or similar: https://www.amazon.com/charging-TOPBIN-Charging-BlackBerry-Motorola/dp/B07BMVCC2F
This is a good book on the subject. But it seems you need some basic electronics learning before even this book.
You can, but it's likely not enough saving to really care about, assuming you're already putting the TV in standby when not in use.
Amazon Echo things are usually around 2-4W sitting around idle so also not huge, at the current maximum power prices until the end of the year that'd be 9-18 quid per year.
Simple countdown timers that are just on starting from when you press the button are indeed a thing, https://www.amazon.co.uk/HBN-Digital-Countdown-Energy-Function/dp/B07PWL7ZD6
Plug in power meters to find out how much power your things actually pull are useful, example https://www.amazon.co.uk/Besvic-Electricity-Consumption-Monitoring-Overload/dp/B08X4M7TX2
For most people the electricity bill is dominated by hot water + heating + cooking when you're not doing those on gas/other fossil fuel.
What you're after for your purpose is a device like a Kill-A-Watt.
It sits between the plug and the socket and will tell you how much power has been used.
I'd like to see another layer of heatshrink over each one and then another over the whole join for more mechanical protection, the pokey bits around the rings there are a likely failure point. You're also supposed to have the insulation on the wires poked into the splice sleeve beyond the red bits , and the solder should get more melted than that, the sleeves like this are way more fiddly to get right than they look.
What I'd rather do is join with an inline splice box or switch like this https://www.amazon.com/Inline-Switch-PLUSPOE-Control-Bedroom/dp/B08CBS388B , gets mechanical protection and screw terminals are easy to get right, and switch can be handy too..
Just saw your edit. Thanks for the update! I already ordered the GU24 type bulbs off Amazon, their return policies are pretty good. It does bother me see every time I go to the bathroom, but I’m not really in a rush. So I will see what the ones I got off of Amazon will do. These are the ones I got if you’re wondering
something like this should work but they are pricey for sure. the tricky part is changing the frequency (from 60 to 50). if it was only the voltage changing transforming the voltage would be easier
8.4A is a lot of current for a tiny filament. I feel like it would melt almost instantly, which makes me think it has current limiting resistors in series.
To answer your question:
This battery : https://www.amazon.ca/Battery-1400Mah-ICR18500-Rechargeable-Flashlights/dp/B07KBY5YBS/ref=asc_df_B07KBY5YBS/?tag=googleshopc0c-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=335273489962&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=18119365233666008499&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9000160&hvtargid=pla-802218736204&psc=1
has a 1800mAh battery capacity. Which means it will deliver 1.8 A for one hour, 3.2A for 0.5 hours, etc.
In theory, that battery would supply 8.4 Amps for 0.2 hours.
LINK:
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Focus on the 216ºC part. That's 420.8ºF. It is the temperature at which the wax inside will melt and the spring, which is passing the electrical current, will be released and cut the current. Make sure it is an Axial Thermal Fuse and designed for what it came out of -- DC or AC, and that the voltage it supports matches.
They are a one-time fuse that you just have to replace.
Look for any thermal fuse with a +/- 10ºC difference and you should be fine. Ideally you can find the same temperature.
Here are 5 of them for USD$6 on Amazon US -- https://www.amazon.com/THERMAL-CUTOFF-Degrees-Celsius-pieces/dp/B07GB8SW84
It’s an illuminated light switch - it’s common, especially in houses from certain years. Is so you can find the switch at night. Like this one.
The other folks here are trolling you.
Depends how long you want it running for.
The dual voltage charger is a bit strange. You'll likely have to use the manufacturer's charger for this, as unless it has multiple outputs you're looking at something that changes its voltage depending on use.
12V x 2A = 24W
19V x 1.75A = 33.25W
So for higher workloads your router is going to step up its voltage. This is likely using some form of USB-C protocol, or perhaps ASUS have made their own proprietary version.
The specs don't list an AC current rating. This is the key information you need to size a UPS. Even then, the load isn't going to be constant.
I think a reasonable first assumption is 24W. The device will sometimes use less than this, and sometimes it will use more. At 220V, 24W is about 0.1A - this is a very small load. This is probably very conservative, I wouldn't be surprised if the router averaged less than 24W normally, and only occassionally went above.
Let's say you have a 500Wh UPS, which is very small. At 24 watts you'll get 20 hours of uptime out of it - however this is a very rough estimate. Actual times will depend on actual usage, which depends on how busy your router is and particularly how much power its putting into its wifi transmitters.
Like I say though, you'll probably want to plug something else in (eg a computer), and that will most likely have a more significant effect on your load profile. However all you need to know is:
Device power P = V x I
UPS uptime t = U / P where U = UPS rating in Watt hours.
You simply devide the UPS rating by the total power you want to supply.
Lastly, that router has security features provided by TrendMicro, the providers of McAffee antivirus. They have had a fair history of controversy, I don't know why you'd want them to monitor all your internet traffic. That alone would make me want to steer clear of this particular model. Much better to have a router that you can flash with dd-wrt.
One important piece of advice. NEVER, NEVER, EVER use a standard AC type outlet for anything other than proper 120VAC. The danger of accidentally plugging a 12VDC item into the 120VAC and blowing it up is too great. I have heard many stories of people doing this and blowing out some rather expensive items.
If you want to wire outlets that you can plug into, use a different style outlet and plug. That way you cannot accidentally mix them up. I did a small building once, years ago where I had 120VAC generator and 30VDC battery outlets. The 30VDC allowed me to use 30V lamps for lighting, before and after the generator was run. I used a twist lock type receptacle for the 30VDC. It has the feature they fit all the standard outlet boxes and hardware, same as the normal outlets. Like this:
That is only true if you have coordinated the time/current blow curves of the two. Fuses are not as simple as many think. Just because you place two fuses in primary and secondary is no guarantee which one will blow first. Or even if either one will blow before your circuit is damaged. You have to do actual electrical engineering to do this right.
A car battery, trickle charger, and power inverter (minimum 200W).
Typical car battery is around 50 Amp hours, which would give you 25 hours of run time with a 2.0A load.
There are solar panel battery chargers for your future plans.
That's indirectly what a current transformer does but you can measure it directly with gaussmeter or magnetometer, though by not encircling the conductor you can introduce a lot of variance.
YFYIQI Gaussmeter Gauss Meter Tesla Meter Teslameter with Low Power Consumption Measure Range 0 to 2500 mT https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09DPHGK4L/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_RG040P1S977F13CDPSRN?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
well, I didn't get a power adapter (I'm not sure if you mean the voltage convertor, sorry) but I got these plug adapters, they'll definitely work anywhere in South America. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00E0P2GLM/ref=ppx\_yo\_dt\_b\_asin\_title\_o01\_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Would be hard to answer without knowing how much power it uses when on low vs when at regular power, plus other factors like how well your place is insulated. On the one hand putting it on low could use less power, but the temperature of your place might just go up all night; on the other going temperature controlled could use less if the power used in that mode isn't so much more than when it's on "low".
Rather than try to figure all that out, just measure it! Get a meter like this, then measure the kWh used per night with it low, then measure the kWh used on high with the thermostat. Do it for 3 nights each and get the average, and you should have a good answer for which uses less!
You are in luck, those are the dimming leads. You can test by shorting together. Light should go to minimum brightness.
All the greys need to be connected together, and all the purples too. Then a wire from each run over to the wall and connected to the dimmer. (the dimmer will have a diagram on it) These are low voltage wires, so they don't have to follow the strict guidelines of electrical wiring code.
https://www.amazon.com/Controller-Dimmable-Electronic-Ballasts-Controling/dp/B0912Y2ZQX/ref=sr_1_8?dchild=1&keywords=1-10+volt+dimmer+switch&link_code=qs&qid=1625339190&sourceid=Mozilla-search&sr=8-8
One style, many are available.
What is the watt rating of the TV? It should be on the back of the TV. Take that number, multiply by 10. That will give watts X 8 plus some extra capacity. The battery pack you listed will probably only run the set for at most 3 hours. The inverter to run the TV is not the big cost. You will need one rated to power the TV at the watts of the TV. Unfortunately you will need about 1200 watt hours worth of battery, at least. This one would be ideal and would give a lot of extra capacity.
I don't know what kind of power consumption it needs to maintain heat as opposed to 100% load when going from cold to boiling, but finding a battery bank to run a resistive load that size is going to be more than waltzing down to the nearest Best Buy.
(warning: the below takes a lot of assumptions into play and is really just my equivalent of throwing a dart at a dartboard from about 150 meters - none of these numbers mean anything.)
Back of the napkin numbers says 1000w for 1 hour is 1kWh. Let's say it only takes a couple minutes to boil at full power, and it needs about 40% of it's full load power to maintain said heat once reached. Fudge numbers a bit, and our dartboard power requirements: 500watt-hours. For safety factor and system inefficiency (usually around 85%), plus the fact that you don't want to use more than about 60% of the battery's depth of discharge at a time, so you likely need a battery bank with around 1kWh of capacity and an inverter capable of producing 1kW of continuous power.
These do exist commercially. But you're definitely paying handsomely for that level of capacity, and most of the Chinese-produced models of these are iffy on whether or not the marketed battery capacity is even remotely obtainable, or whether the inverter circuitry can actually supply 1000w of instantaneous power without overheating the battery cells and shutting down. That's up to you to research.
No, you can't use an adapter with more voltage. The matrix is apparently designed for a 5vdc supply, and that's what you need.
Here is a 5Vdc, 10A supply:
There are others. Keep in mind that the current rating is with all the leds turned on at once. If you aren't going to ever do that, you could use a supply with a lower current rating. But you need to stick to 5Vdc, regardless.
It depends entirely on how hard it would be working which depends on the size of the space, outside temperature, and quality of insulation. Your best bet is to get something like a Kill-a-Watt and take some sample measurements.
Edit: I can give you an upper limit though. 1340W means 1.34kWh every hour or about 11 cents per hour.
The standard NEMA 5-15 outlet that you’re plugging your power strip into is only rated for 15A or around 1800 watts. To comply with code, devices like ovens that can run continuously for longer than 3 hours need to have their current load derated by 20%, so 1440W (which your devices are likely rounding up to 1500W). This is why space heaters and appliances are always 1500W but hair driers go up to 1800W.
To run 3000W of hardware, you will need a power strip that uses a plug rated for 31.25A (3kW + 20% = 3750W / 120V = 31.25A).
Technically, you should have more current capacity than you’re using meaning 31.25A minimum which would have you rounding up to a 35-40A connection.
There isn’t much in the way of standard 35-40A plugs at 120V and your food truck probably doesn’t have one available anyway, so to do this right, you’d have to have the truck wired with separate 15A breakers for each device.
What kind of generator are you using? Do you have 240V available? Or just 120V? If you have a 240V two phase generator, you could use something like this https://www.amazon.com/Ceptics-GN-CD-2-50-Generator-Distribution-Listed/dp/B07K8V286W. The generator end is rated for 30A/240V, so each plug can draw 15A/120V safely.
If you’re up to make a fashion statement, get a set of these. https://www.amazon.com/Adjustable-Static-Grounding-Protecting-Electronics/dp/B08CZWLYR3
They continuously connect your body to the ground preventing you from building a charge.
so far it appears everyone is suggesting mechanical buttons or switches, I want to chime in to say this is a bad idea.
It can be done, but depending on the setup it may be more complex, better to do it with a contactless door sensor like this
These magnetic switches can't handle much power, so this would just trigger the system that turns on the light. There's different options including ones that connect to the wifi. The advantage is the door fitment and alignment doesn't have to be perfect, and even if the door shifts this will still work.
I'm going to cunningham's law this since I'm in a similar situation. I think it's possible to power all of these devices using a powerful enough 12v supply and a voltage regulator. Then reversing the polarity of the cables as needed.
links:
https://www.instructables.com/Polarity-Reversing-DC-Extension-Cord/
Note: I am also a layperson and my advice is given with the hope that's it's correct, but not the assurance. If it fails it hopefully only blows up the regulator if things go bad, but if you care about the devices it's probably worth getting a power strip and having each device have its own individual power supply.
Get an outlet tester: https://www.amazon.com/Power-Gear-Receptacle-Indications-50542/dp/B002LZTKIA
Theoretically, improper wiring in your house could lead to you feeling a shock, as pipes can be used for electrical grounding.
Otherwise, have you stopped taking any psychiatric medications suddenly? At one point I stopped taking Prozac and I would get "brain zaps" randomly throughout my body, but intense sensations, ie cold or hot, would set them off.
You want to make one or you just want to use it?
https://www.amazon.com/Duxtop-8100MC-Portable-Induction-Countertop/dp/B0045QEPYM
Honestly, you'd probably have an easier time converting your 120v AC to 12v DC. Are there any markings on the lights for the amount of current (amps) they draw? You could use a power supply like this one: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00M8TBJLK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabc_a.YXFbS38ND67?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
If it was integrated with a step down it would tell you can hook it up to a 120v.
Basically looking for a 24V, 125W or more LED power supply, can find them on amazon. something like this
There's cheaper options though.
Here's the amazon listing. The dimmer switch along the cable reads: 2⨂2A 250V~ T55 1E4. There's also a lot of stuff printed on the cable that I don't understand, but at some point it says 300/300V.
The power strip isn't rated for the kettles joules. Your kettle uses LotsoWatts. Check bottom of power strip and bottom of kettle for amp rating.
I've got another question. What if I want to run it with a battery? Most commercial LED panels use Sony NPF batteries which output 7.4-8.4V (depending on manufacturer). There are different sizes, the one I linked is the biggest one (7800-9200mAh).
What kind of converter/adapter do I need to use such a battery for the LED panel, and how much will the battery last?
If the battery is rated at 7.8Ah, does it mean that it will last about 1.3hours with LEDs rated 6A?
Glad to see this caper went off without a hitch. In the future, a non contact voltage tester or similar can help you to verify that a circuit is not live before working with it. A good double check even if you have turned off the breaker.
Best is a stand alone wifi box (IIRC, these are also called a wifi game adapters) placed in a weatherproof plastic utility box and run CAT-5 or -6 down into the underground area through conduit,
They are similar to these:
https://www.amazon.com/FSJEE-Connectors-Solderless-Connector-Connect/dp/B077CLT75F/
The led strip is a flexible strip with copper contacts that slide under the clips. Over time, this is no longer a consistent contact. The copper contacts dimple, and the clips probably lose some grip.
> higher the output wattage the more expensive they get so this would only be suitable for relatively low power devices.
When I moved to England ~1983, I bought three 1.5 kilowatt step downs to run my items. Including a waffle iron I loved. I found them used but even new they are not that much. You should only need one of that size for things like heating appliances. 250 Watt one are fine for most computer/audio/video use.
Look to Amazon or Ebay. And the safest ones are real transformers. Not the switch mode ones suitable only for heaters.
Jut google "voltage converter from 230V to 120V " or " voltage transformer from 230V to 120V ".
I found this one that seems cool, because it has EU, UK, AUST and US connectors for input. And since it is 2000W (power) it'll be powerful enough for every gadget you can have
Won't warn if the light is out but will warn if it drops below a preset temp.
Thanks for your reply. This is exactly what I was thinking. I have this amplifier (repeater) already. I was hoping to avoid running a second power supply but it looks like im gonna need it.
​
So I hooked them all up and there is a very noticeable difference in the brightness from the beginning to the end. With your info and more digging I believe it makes sense to have a repeater (amplifier). I'll have 2 strips running from the controller and 1. 5 from the amplifier. Each with a 12v / 10a power supply.
​
Thanks
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NGV4506/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
This is the blender I am using.
That particular one is made to replace the wall plate of a regular outlet. But Yes you can use splitters in a surge protector.
Yes, you can.
A tandem breaker is basically two single breaker's made in the space of one single breaker to save on space. (Seriously, to think people would force the industry to produce this is....crap).
A tandem breaker is thus actually less robust than single breakers and can trip more readily.
Extra unasked for info:
All you have to see is if you have enough space to fit two. Also, make sure you have the correct voltage while buying. And while re-installing be careful to make the connections correctly. (Worst case scenario, you will destroy a breaker, but some sparks may fly. Wear rubber shoes/slippers while installing if you have never done this before.) And yes, make sure all power is off (at the very least in those lines) before installing.
EDIT: Can you post pictures? I am getting a funny feeling single breaker might not work. And pretty sure you can order those off online?
EDIT 2: And yes, I should read title better. Comment by azzagbag is better solution.
insulate the hot water pipe, lot of heat losses from copper pipes. If you can access the pipe after it goes through the wall etc that's ideal too. Can get foam insulation with a peel to stick on the split you put over the pipe.
assuming people would adjust the temperature of the shower to be the same as before the tank was adjusted, the total amount of heat being drawn from the tank for a shower would be the same. Hotter water would mean more consecutive showers without the water running cold, but wouldn't save power.
As others have said the losses would be slightly higher.
I would guess the water heater is a big point but not the majority of your bill. I would go around the house with a power meter and survey appliances in the house, how much it uses, and estimate the portion of a day it's in use.
Many of those power meters let you leave them plugged in to give you a KWh reading, maybe if you put it on different items for a day at a time just to see.
For big appliances like dryers you'd have to look at the rated power, or look at the main electric meter and see the difference when the dryer kicks in. Again has to be weighed by how long it actually gets used in a given day on average.
Try out this spreadsheet I made to help calculate this. (go to file->make a copy to edit the numbers - fill in your details on the blue boxes). If you fill in this or a similar spreadsheet until you've accounted for most of the KWh on your power bill you'll have a better idea where your money is going.
Here a simple, no work way of doing it. Just add one to each light bulb.
If you want to have one unit switch the whole string, use ones like this.
With RadioShack struggling, these things are getting harder and harder to come by. In my opinion, the best way to learn circuits is hands-on. The books are very well written, and get into circuit operation without dragging you down with the math that's behind it all. Totally worth $100. https://www.amazon.com/Electronics-Learning-Lab/dp/B00A7AT41E
If it is a charger made to plug into an auto cigarette lighter, It is rated for the lead acid voltages. Even during charging of the lead acid battery.
A better solution to have a balance draw from the 24V, is to use a step down converter. You can google for others.
Nah I just wanted to make a point when someone on a thread said it uses a lot of electricity. I know a USB 1.0 doesn't use much more than a wireless mouse!
You know sometimes as a female who did not study science I may not know exactly how much electricity but i know for sure a USB 1.0 device does not use a "shitton" of electricity!
1c a day is less than a Starbucks a year. ��
Just standing up for myself. Troll alert plus they exaggerate myths to prey on people's insecurities! I do not like that. I use science and despite not studying any science, I come pretty close to a solution. Proud of my self ��
Any idea how much electricity a 6 can refrigerator will take? Example this one on Amazon?
I am really keen keen to get one. The 1 can solution failed. It only cools the bottom ��
there was another post about ungrounded receptacles on here not to long ago where op was plugging in some audio visual hardware, you could try a Ground Fault Circuit Interrupter (https://www.amazon.com/Leviton-N7599-W-SmartLock-Non-Tamper-Resistant-Receptacle/dp/B0088XA58I/ref=zg_bs_6291366011_3/155-7421043-0265359?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=8QBV6N8X5EQY4CPHWC48) Yours will look different than this obviously. Or you could try a easy plug in (https://www.amazon.ca/gp/search/ref=a9_sc_1?rh=i%3Aaps%2Ck%3Aground+fault+circuit+interupter+extension+cord&keywords=ground+fault+circuit+interupter+extension+cord&ie=UTF8&qid=1485901665) I've only used the second one for out doors for construction tools and don't know if either would fix your issue.
Do you know for sure that your outlets aren't grounded? And it's not just an issue with your computer as I posted before?
The specific refrigerator is This One. It plugs into a 120VAC power source, but it can run off a 12VDC power source as well.
Get a hold of an energy meter - something like this: https://www.amazon.com/P3-P4400-Electricity-Usage-Monitor/dp/B00009MDBU/ref=sr_1_1. This is for North America - so you need to find something equivalent for Europe.
Otherwise - just read the label on the microwave. The power output should be there. It should be close to the number you are looking for if you use the microwave on high power.
From my experience, these small batteries are pretty well useless. If you need battery power to make it through the day since you are a heavy user. I suggest getting something like this. I have had good success. Battery
This is a great book to start with.
It will have you taking things apart pretty quickly, or at least looking at home electronics and seeing them for what they're made of.
So you mean if you don't physically touch them, they are safer than the good ol' christmas lights? Because I see too many people complaining. Could it be a placebo?
I thought about something like this
The AVR is going to use some power. You can buy a Kill A Watt Electricity Usage Monitor to determine how much electricity it uses. (that is a US model, you will need one suitable for your location)
Keep in mind that if you are heating your house, the waste heat is helping offset some heating costs.