What are /r/ElegooMars' favorite Products & Services?

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That is most likely extra resin that wasn't cleaned off. I've tried a bunch of different cleaners and Mean Green doesn't work well at all in my opinion and if you can't get IPA then get denatured alcohol. Also if possible you should get two containers. One for dirty alcohol and one for clean. Get a toothbrush and scrub your models in the dirty solution and then give them another scrub in the clean.

https://www.amazon.com/Klean-Strip-GSL26-Denatured-Alcohol-1-Gallon/dp/B001EMB2A0

the murcury station uses a standalone, light activated rotating platform.

1.Remove this from the machine

shine a led light at it like from your phone and see if it's still making the noise

​

This is likely the spinning platform going out, which can be replaced cheaply with this https://www.amazon.com/Display-Turntable-Battery-Rotating-Collection/dp/B072XJ55DG/ref=sr\_1\_26?dchild=1&keywords=dnd+mini+display+rotating&qid=1625864752&sr=8-26

I use this Sprayway Glass Cleaner to clean the machine itself. Its high in isopropyl alcohol content and seems to work well for cleaning off the build plate.

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https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07895GYGW/r

I'm new to printing too and have only used the Elegoo water washable. Not a single print fail, excellent detail, and the cleanup/smell is greatly reduced when I compared my experience with a friend who uses the regular stuff. Printed and painted small and large models. Almost done with the whole bottle of this: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07X34Z9SC/ref=ppx\_yo\_dt\_b\_asin\_title\_o08\_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

If you want to give your son a head start, you will want to make sure he is introduced to Blender ( https://www.blender.org/ ). It is 100% free, and can be used to create 3D models for printing, video games and animation. While the slicers like Cura and Chitubox prepare a 3D model for printing, they aren't often used to create the models themselves, and that is where programs like Fusion 360 (precise hard surface modeling), Z-Brush (sculpting like with digital clay) and Blender (both hard surface and sculpting) come in.

Recommend you get an inexpensive flexible tablet screen protector and put it on top of your screen which should offer a level of protection against spills and scratches like that. The one I linked is the one I got and have been pretty happy with it so far.

This is the one I used! Be sure to print this BEFORE you attach the flex plate. I recommend printing a couple just in case you get failure. And don't forget to relevel with the shim in place lol I made that mistake. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4533310 2.6mm tall is all it needs to be. You might also need to get longer machine screws. These M3 size 12 machine screws worked great for me https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0714FLXND/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc_A9R84MFTCZTNQKT0RGN5?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1 The flex plate is a life saver, definitely recommended. If you have any questions feel free to ask :) Good luck printing!

I found them on Amazon and thought they would be perfect if (fingers crossed it never happens) my fep broke while it was printing. That way I can contain the mess to the tray. Plus it’s very useful for sliding the printer back after messing with it haha.

Nesmilers Plastic Fast Food Trays, Cafeteria Trays, 4 Pack Serving Trays (Grey) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08GS4YX9P/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_DMRZC71AJE7K7RCKRRMK?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

I bought these, they come in a 3 pack They also make a larger one. I might pick one of them up.

For more volume of water, I use empty liter sized seltzer bottles I fill with water.

It seems the 3D model has inconsistent orientation of faces' normals.

1. download Blender HERE and open it
2. select all with 'a' and hit 'del' to delete all the objects.
3. file->import the stl file.
4. press 'a' to select all (i.e. your model)
5. go to edit mode by pressing 'tab'
6. it should be all orange, with all the verts and faces selected. if not, press 'a' to select all vertices.
7. press 'shift'+'n' to recalculate the face normals
8. press 'tab' to exit edit mode.
9. go to file->export stl.

You should be good now.

edit: added numbered list

Alita, before she's discovered and retuned to life - from the film 'Alita: Battle Angel'. Elegoo grey resin, 0.5 layer height. Alita herself, her heart, spine and ribcage are printed, from these files https://cults3d.com/en/3d-model/art/alita-battle-angel-junkyard-model. Printing took around 10 hours. The base and the rest of her internals are from the spares box or scratchbuilt.

I got the Creality Fireproof and Dustproof 3D Printer Enclosure which is designed for their FDM printers. The small will fit a Mars Pro 2 and will probably fit a Saturn.

The enclosure has a flap on top - I use an airbrush spray hood extension hose and put the narrow exhaust in a sliding window.

You can also get an inline fan for 4" hose to make sure the fumes get sucked out.

The main disadvantage with this enclosure is the clear window on the door flap. A dark cloth taped over the clear part should keep the light out. I've had 6+ hour prints in this enclosure and a) the printer doesn't get too hot and the smell is contained.

Some good stuff, just a few of my own observations on the gear, having also just hit my one-year mark...

I have found that paper shop towels go further than standard kitchen paper towels.

I have also found a good mesh metal strainer to be a good, cheaper long-term alternative to paper funnels.

As stated, nitrile is the better material for gloves. I understand they can be tougher to find and more expensive due to the pandemicpalooza, but it's worth doing right

I have also found a metal spatula/paint scraper to be much better at removing prints from the build plate than the plastic ones. Plastic works well for removing stuff stuck to the FEP, though I prefer to simply loosen with IPA and prevent scratching and scraping the FEP altogether

Finally, I would recommend picking up small rubber squeegees like those used to detail car mirrors for making sure you salvage as much resin from the vat as possible. It adds up quick! https://www.amazon.com/CARTINTS-Rubber-Squeegee-Household-Cleaning/dp/B07RPKYR2C/ref=sr\_1\_36?dchild=1&keywords=mirror+squeegee&qid=1626578039&sr=8-36

Sure, here it is: Vetro temperato per Nintendo... https://www.amazon.it/dp/B08BL2FHMX?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

PS: I taped it down with electrical tape and added a tiny bit of extra padding on the corners to reduce suction with the vat FEP

ELEGOO Mars Pro LCD 3D Printer $189.99, Save 20%

Original price: $239.99

Current price: $189.99

Coupon: $50 OFF

Product link: https://www.amazon.com/ELEGOO-Photocuring-Activated-Off-Line-Printing/dp/B07XHK1SW1/

This is the one I bought. The magnet sticks fine for me and I haven't had any problems so far and I've done a couple dozen prints with it.

Just make sure you buy the correct size for your build plate.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B091YK1V9W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc_G28J6CV7K1T0JK9MZTAP?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

I ended up using a plastic pail with a lid that I found at the dollar store. It does not fit inside the cover, so I used some tape over the sensor. It's also not airtight, so I wouldn't store IPA in it (I'm using Mean Green with my homemade tub and IPA in the tub that came with the Mercury Plus).

Some things to consider:

-Whatever container you use needs to be quite flat on the bottom. The strength of the magnetic field falls off very quickly, so the less the propeller is raised vertically, the better. I ended up redesigning it a bit to use bigger magnets in order to allow a little more leeway.

-A metal bearing will rust pretty quick being submerged. Get a ceramic one.

-Finding an adhesive that will hold up to prolonged submersion and adheres to polypropylene (what most plastic containers are made of) was tricky. Marine epoxy didn't hold. I ended up using this stuff: https://www.amazon.ca/LePage-Plastics-Super-Glue-1668383/dp/B019GIT4CQ It seems to have held up well so far.

-neodymium magnets will corrode over time being immersed. I coated mine with marine epoxy to be safe. So far so good.

Overall, I'm happy with the result. It works quite well, albeit not nearly as quietly as the original tub. The propeller is bigger, so the agitation is somewhat stronger than with the stock tub too (which is a good thing, especially since I'm not using IPA)

Get these: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07Y1HFX7G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc_CQ4H6EBPJCXDENGS6W3K?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1 As it will help cleaning off the glass. Don't use metal as it will scratch it, which is VERY BAD.

Also these plastic razor blades are great for removing hardened resin (after treating with rubbing alcohol to soften it up): https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B07Y9H5969/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Feedback but maybe from a different angle: What is your bottom layer exposure time? I was having a tough time on my Saturn before my flexible plate arrived and realized I could cut back time by 30% for easier release.

As an aside I never had that issue on my Mars, but the flexible build plate was a game changer there and def worth $20 (Sovol / BIQU on amazon: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08NDXT565) I honestly feel they should be standard on all printers at this point. Eliminates all issues getting parts to stick during print but come off without breaking once done.

BTW, I use Lychee + UVTools exclusively now (previously used Prusa for supports then Chitu for slicing) and haven't had any issues with the default support skates.

A cafeteria tray like this would work good.

After having issues to print with Siraya Tech Blu and Tenacious I've decided to get a heater. By setting inside temperature to 30s I could significantly decrease my exposure time on Mars 2 Pro from 6 seconds to 4.5 seconds.

Heater is kept via double sided tape. The thermocouple for the thermostat is near the vat.

Items: * Heater $25 https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B07573FKSG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabc_HJFWNDM5E9QYNCJK4PM9?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1 * Thermostat with relay $9 for a pair. https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B07VDRGK9F/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabc_DZRAVRFNAPC4903H3F1R?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

The thermostat needs 12V source. I used my LED strip power supply.

In the background you also can see house made fine extractor with 140mm noctua industrial 3000rpm fan and two 0.5 carbon filters. I hooked up a basic PWM controller for it and I usually set to half duty cycle and can push fumes through the window and it doesn't smell bed outside.

Invest in a respirator mask like this for working with resin. You should wear one when you've got the lid off your printer, and when you're working with uncured prints. Also, I'd recommend investing in heavy duty reusable nitrile gloves like this so you're not creating so much disposable waste. They're also much more resistant to punctures and tears. Remember to wipe them off with paper towel and whatever solvent you're using after you're done, and they'll last a long time (I'm on one pair for a year now with no issues).

70 seems really high for a monochrome lcd. You don't want to burn it out and have to replace it.

Also, why the slower lift speed? Does that really do much by way of ensuring it doesn't bond to the fep?

If its so cold you should look into heaters for your printer. I just ordered this guy https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07573FKSG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabc_peDbGbYKCEENK

And there's a guy on thingiverse who has designed a few brackets etc to mount it inside the case to warm up the machine proper without having to blast heat throughout your house or wherever you're keeping it. That would hopefully let you bring your base layers back down to 30. I also don't think 10sec is all that necessary either, especially with all the warmth generated from those base layers. I bet you could drop those to 3 and still have good results.

Thanks. Here's a 1000ml version in a 3 pack.

https://www.amazon.com/SUPERLELE-1000ml-Plastic-Squeeze-Medical/dp/B07PRSTZ5W/ref=sr_1_3?crid=R8FPLW3TEMZB&dchild=1&keywords=1000ml+squeeze+bottle&qid=1610414756&s=industrial&sprefix=1000ml+squeeze%2Cindustrial%2C130&sr=1-3

this kind

I use these just fine on my Mars 2 pro

ELEGOO 2 PCS Metal Resin Tank for ELEGOO Mars 3D Printer with FEP Pre-Installed and 2 Lids and 2 Allen Wrench, Resin Vat for ELEGOO Mars, Photon and Epax X1 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07WGFF4K4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glc_fabc_b6x0FbJ5NY89F?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

I use this nail UV light from Amazon.

I give the resin 2 or 3 minutes under the lights and that's enough to fully cure it.

To rotate the models under the light, I use this solar powered display

If the model and rotating display are too tall to fit under the light, I support the light on some plastic boxes. Try not to look at the light and keep pets away.

With SLA printers, Sticking is the enemy. I would recommend getting a bit of PTFE lubricant (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00J25JDDY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1) to squirt on the bottom of the vat before you fill it, that's fixed a lot of my problems.

Waiting for 1 of these.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08CJZ711T/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

You'll need to sand and polish every side of your dice anyways to get rid of the layer marks. Use these and make supports.

Also, I'm sure you know but just in case, make sure your dice are super well cured before you cast them to make sure your silicone cures properly.

The orange cable should be attached, so, it's dead Jim.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07X586JHK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_bifnFbA3HM201

There is one listing for the Mars and one for the Pro (the glass protector is different thicknesses.

Then follow their instructional video on YouTube.

I use one of these fans: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001MEH1I2/ref=sbl_dpx_B001R1RXUG_0

Rotate it so it's facing straight down, set the piece underneath it on a paper tower for a bit, flip it over/rotate if I feel the towel side needs to dry more, then cure.

If anyone is interested here’s the amazon link Carlisle CT141803 Café Standard Cafeteria/Fast Food Tray, 14" x 18", Polypropylene, Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06Y226G55/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_xpTuFb71SAPP2

They briefly sold the replacement build plates on Amazon, which are the improved design using BEEFY screws.

You can contact Elegoo support, and they may be able to get you a new one directly, rather than waiting for it to be back in stock

ELEGOO Building Plate for Mars LCD 3D Printer with Anti-Slip Hexagon Socket Screws and CNC Turning CD Pattern, Compatible with Mars Pro https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0836JWTRR/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_lr-CEbD55WAK8

I print for Warhammer needs. I have only purchased (2) vats of resin so far, but the below should help.

Do NOT buy the Elegoo Water Washable Photopolymer Resin. It is stupid brittle for miniatures. I was painting chainaxes, my finger lightly grazed the chainaxe teeth, the chainaxe popped off at the handle and launched across the room. I had chainaxes break on 3 separate miniatures & twice on the same one.

What I bought second works wonders - Siraya Tech Simple. This stuff is bendy (durable) and I've had 0 issues using it for lots of WH miniatures. My only cons: (1) is it claims it's water washable, then says it requires 20% IPA (which was simply irritating, but fine), (2) it's kind of "oily" and harder to wash up a vat compared to the Elegoo above, & (3) it takes longer to cure (>=1.5m per side, >=3m total) to eliminate the tackiness of resin prints (the Elegoo only took like 30 seconds per side on minis). All these cons are super minor IMO & I will continue to buy this same resin until I can't find it anymore.

Note that the Elegoo (or any "may be brittle and not for miniatures") will probably work fine for chunky prints (whole bodies, large/thick parts), but will most definitely not survive a drop if the printed parts are thin.

Hope this helps!

I got one of these https://www.amazon.co.uk/Better-Brew-Heat-Belt-Fermenter/dp/B008NVBSLI

I then carefully cut off the blue plastic wrap, inside is a wound filament inside covered in a clear plastic coating. It's fairly flexible so you can bend it round the vat. I then bought some silicone heat shrink wrap and covered it in that. It's just a bit easier to work with like that. I had to get the shrink wrap from china on aliexpress because I couldn't find any cheap silicone wrap locally. You can use it as is with the plastic coating though, nothing wrong with that.

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Just understand that these heat bands are not powerful enough to heat the vat really, they are to maintain the temperature, so you have to heat the resin first, which I do by standing hte bottle in some close to boiling water for ten minutes, while I get a heat gun and gently heat the vat (in my hand, not on the machine) and the build plate (can be left on the machine, just move it away from the screen) just to get them both warm. Otherwise it'll suck the heat out the resin real quick.

I started off my printing journey thinking as you do; the small extra expense of water-washable resin would be recouped several-fold by not having to buy IPA.

I quickly changed my mind. Leaving aside discussions about water-washable resin fragility in comparison to other "standard" resins, you also don't then have access to ABS-Like and other speciality resins.

I like in the north of the UK and leaving a container of water outside is not going to result in less water in it any time soon, and leaving it in a shed or otherwise undercover still isn't going to evaporate much given the temperatures for most of the year. I probably *could* take containers of contaminated water to the local waste centre, but that sounds like a PITA. So I swapped onto IPA, and I have bought 6 litres of it since September 2020 and still have 3 litres sitting untouched.

What I have done is added a tiny amount of pool flocculant to my IPA:
https://smile.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B002OENW5U/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
And by tiny, I mean, I've added about 5ml to my wash and cure station. Once. This 1 litre bottle will likely last me a lifetime. and does not impact the cleaning or print at all.

By leaving it propped-up at an angle, the residue collects mostly in one spot and I use a large syringe with tube on it to suck up the worst of it, squirt that into another tub to settle out further. After a while the second tub settles out even more and I can reclaim some of that and cure & safely dispose of the sludge.

Good price. Some amazon options -

17.75/gallon if buying 4 gallons (71 dollars total) https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01KK014F4

30.00/gallon if buying 1 gallon https://www.amazon.com/Isopropyl-Alcohol-Grade-Anhydrous-Gallon/dp/B07L6MMV7F/

I found them on Amazon.

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https://smile.amazon.com/ELEGOO-Release-Thickness-Stronger-Functionality/dp/B09GV78KB8/ref=sr\_1\_4?crid=PWE2S897EB4B&keywords=elegoo+pfa+fep+2.0+release+liner+for+saturn+2&qid=1667584919&qu=eyJxc2MiOiIxLjYzIiwicXNhIjoiMC4wMCIsInFzcCI6...

I use a cheap acrylic based paint set (https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B08R1NNXQT/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1). Just make sure that you prime you prints first, preferably with a spray gun (don't use a rattle can, it will destroy details)

When you say they're stripped, do you mean the threads are stripped, or the heads are stripped?

If it's just the head of the screw, you can get extractors to remove them. Here's an example: Screw extractors on Amazon

I haven't had to do my FEP yet, but aren't the screws allen head that you get a wrench for when you buy the printer? If you're using a screwdriver and stripped the head of the screw, it's the wrong size bit. Maybe you should invest in a set of those too.

Once you get your stripped screws out, you can measure them or contact Elegoo and ask them what size they are and get replacments from Amazon.

Having a spare vat isn't that bad a thing, but I wouldn't buy one every time you need a new FEP. Just get the right tools to change it.

Thanks!

I've found one on amazon.it too, it's the best solution so far, and likely the one I'll be doing!

Actually, I am Canadian and was getting those prices from Amazon.ca

Mars 3 pro on amazon.ca

I also found that it was very quick to get the printer. 2 days from order to delivery in Vancouver.

Don't you get nailed with brokerage fees when you order from south of the line?

Yeah, sorry XD Not my mother language and sometimes when I write fast I mix concepts. I refer to something like this. This way you can brush your print and clean it without having to worry about leaving any marks on it (because uncured resin is somehow fragile and soft).

I originally used Sovol for my Mars 2 but they changed adhesives and I changed to Koyofei:

Koyofei Flex Plates

Again, I used BOTH magnetic sheets , one on top of the other for maximum pull. The thickness has decreased 30% since I bougt my first set a few years ago.

Bob

As no-one else has suggested it, I'm going to say temperature. The weather has turned, so what may have been a room with a great ambient temp for printing could now be way below the recommended range.

Your bottle of resin should list the ideal temperature for your resin, so try and keep your machine at that level.

Not used it yet, but I just bought this 'heat belt' designed for brewing after seeing a few recommendations on this sub. You can strap it around the tank and it will keep it nicely heated, without you having to waste electricity on heating the entire room.

These are listed as "flexible" and I have them wrapped around the inside of my covers. They work just fine. 1 in my mini8k and 2 in my mighty8k, secured by magnets glued to the mats and just held by more magnets via the mag-force through the cover.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B09NR1RQ3R/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1

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Super late but these work great for my Mars 2 Pro. I have hundreds of successful prints with these ontop of the uv screen

https://www.amazon.com/ELEGOO-Inches-Monochrome-Resolution-Printer/dp/B09GVQMNMH/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?crid=DU0ZOEBB7WMM&keywords=elegoo+mars+3+screen&qid=1664386146&qu=eyJxc2MiOiIxLjk5IiwicXNhIjoiMS4wMCIsInFzcCI6IjEuMzkifQ%3D%3D&sprefix=elegoo+mars+3+screen%2Caps%2C314&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1

Amazon has replacement screens for $45.00

Since you asked, here is the amazon link. Worth noting that I got to it through the Elegoo store on Amazon. Also, sorry for taking so long responding with it, I was away from my computer and didn't want to mess with it on mobile

Appreciate the help brother

Do you think this one will do ? ..

https://www.amazon.co.uk/THKAILAR-External-Storage-Smartphones-MacBook-Red/dp/B08TVKNXWH/ref=sr_1_20?keywords=fat32+formatted+usb+stick&qid=1663887838&sr=8-20

"【Transfer and Format】This USB C flash drive enables fast and stable data transfer (read speed up to 60-120MB/s, write speed up to 18-45MB/s. Test environment USB 3.0 computer, test software H2testw) Note: Compatible with USB 2.0 interface, but limited speed. The default format is exFAT. Please format the U disk according to the needs of different devices."

I'm watching YouTube videos about fat32 formatting, seems easy enough

It said 3M on the peel off protector but when examined it was a white glue with some kind of fabric to hold it in place.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B09MQSRZ8W/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

On the other hand through, I now have 3 detachable flexiplates so I can print at a very fast rate just by taking the plate off and sticking another on while I work on removing the prints and cleaning them.

https://www.amazon.com/ELEGOO-ABS-Like-UV-Curing-Photopolymer-Printing/dp/B0B12HX7CT/ref=sr\_1\_3?crid=30MEX9Y7IW99G&keywords=elegoo+abs+2.0&qid=1661376765&sprefix=elegoo+abs+2.0%2Caps%2C137&sr=8-3

Could’ve sworn I put a description but here it is:

Didn’t come out how I wanted to say the least lol. I’m on a mars 2 pro using elegoo water washable resin. These settings were fine for previous prints but those were with transparent resin and weren’t usually so vertically oriented.

Does anyone have any suggestions on how to better print these? Thanks!

https://www.amazon.com/ELEGOO-Washable-UV-Curing-Standard-Photopolymer/dp/B09Y1BWRZ9?pd_rd_w=V2wxK&content-id=amzn1.sym.94349326-ca8a-4b0d-94f0-6931485b8573&pf_rd_p=94349326-ca8a-4b0d-94f0-6931485b8573&pf_rd_r=Q4BV3J1A7JT8VNJ135SC&...

Most of the time if you are printed items with supports the slicer will create a base (or you can manually add one in the slice) that will have a beveled edge so you can easily get the spatula under it an peel it off the build plate. You can also add a magnetic build plate to the printer to make it easier to remove the prints.

The respirator that you have there is a clone of a 3M respirator. As long as the mask itself is sealing to your face tightly it is probably fine, however those cartridges included with it appear to be just dust/particulate filters. You need to have Organic Vapor cartridges like the 30 60926 https://www.amazon.com/3M-Cartridge-60926-Respiratory-Protection/dp/B009POHLRC to block the fumes.

That being said you shouldn't need to expose yourself to the fumes for 30 minutes. I just use Ikea 365+ food storage containers to store my IPA. I remove the print from the build plate, drop it in the IPA and either put the lid back on and let it soak for a few minutes or just start scrubbing it with a brush while submerged in the IPA. Usually I have the IPA opened for only a few minutes for a print. There are also other cleaners that you can use, but I have no personal experience with them. Try searching the subreddit or YouTube for alternative cleaners if the IPA bothers you.

The pickle jar should be fine for storing the IPA. The strainer could even be useful for dropping your prints in the jar and using the strainer to pull them out.

You shouldn't need to drain the resin tank between prints, unless you have a failure and need to drain it to clean the tank / FEP of debris.

mach5ive is a popular brand. maybe there's better but they are totally fine. I wouldn't over think it too much.

https://www.amazon.com/Mach5ive-Screen-Saver-Protector-Printers/dp/B09W61FB9C/ref=sr_1_3?crid=2APYJEGE1IZR2&keywords=mars+3+screen+protector&qid=1659792216&sprefix=mars+3+screen+protector%2Caps%2C94&sr=8-3

there they are for the mars 3 (my personal machine) but you can do a quick search for your preferred model.

Yes, you can, I've printed similar things just fine directly on my flexplate. To echo /u/thatperson1512, I also recommend getting a magnetic flex plate. Here's what I have: https://www.amazon.com/Sovol-3D-Upgraded-Platform-Magnetic/dp/B08LYP2VTT/

I haven't tried it yet, but I've had eSun's TPU-Like resin in my "save for later" on Amazon for a while now. It might do what you're looking for.

https://smile.amazon.com/eSUN-TPU-Like-Photopolymer-Materials-Transparent/dp/B082VQYD97

I loved having extra resin tanks that have lids with my Mars 2 Pro. Makes switching resin waaay easier and if you're not printing for awhile, easy to put it away.

Coincidentally, I was wondering if anyone knew if the Mars 3 extra resin vats would fit on the pro version? These ones.

i ordered 2 new vats from amazon for my mars 3.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09GVPQ8LK?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details

44 clams....

If you have the cash, and depending on the size prints you do, you can find ultrasonic cleaners for retainers on amazon for 30 ish bucks. I remove my print, swirl it around in a sealed plastic tub of iso to get the initial resin off, then put in ultrasonic full of iso and then cure. works great.

https://www.amazon.com/ONEZILI-Ultrasonic-Portable-Cleaning-Eyeglasses/dp/B09Y5XR22N/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?keywords=ultrasonic+cleaner&qid=1658945006&sr=8-2-spons&psc=1

This is the respirator that I use. It's small enough to fit snugly on my face while still letting me easily wear my glasses.

I use it with these cartridges (3M Respirator Cartridge 6006 Multi Gas/Vapour). Both respirator and cartridge do a pretty good job of blocking out pretty much all the fumes and I pretty much don't smell anything except for the inside of the mask itself.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B08HM8281F/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

This one :)

You don’t need it, I just use a couple of Pickle Jars filled with IPA (this one, because it has its own strainer: LOCK & LOCK HPL933BT Pickle... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06WD1F7HD). Pop things off the build plate and into the first “dirty jar”, use the handle on the strainer to twist it back and forth and move it up and down a little to get it rinsed as well as I can, then just pop the whole strainer out and into a second “clean” rinse to get the last little bit, then into a water rinse.

Gaffer's tape is likely too thick. Kapton tape is super thin and will still block resin from getting under the screen if you have a leak.

https://www.amazon.ca/BOMEI-PACK-Temperature-Insulation-Sublimation/dp/B08Y8L2W6D/ref=mp_s_a_1_9?crid=1OCJQV88Z7AIW&keywords=kapton+tape&qid=1656942378&sprefix=kapton+tape%2Caps%2C100&sr=8-9

https://www.amazon.ca/XFasten-Professional-Grade-Gaffer-Yards/dp/B01M65GGK3/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?crid=2KR8RXD1U7V36&keywords=black+kapton+tape&qid=1656880333&refinements=p_85%3A5690392011&rnid=5690384011&rps=1&sprefix=black+kapton+tape%2Caps%2C89&sr=8-2-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEzQVg1Q0lHV05KREtXJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwMDU0NjU5MzQxTzdFMksyUzlTQSZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwMjcyMTMyM1YxVVZGVVAwNFROViZ3aWRnZXROYW1lPXNwX2F0ZiZhY3Rpb249Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU=

Would that work?

thank god for this thread.

the mars 2 pro ships with a protective screen now (2022 purchase) but even when you buy the replacement LCD, it doesnt come with this film and I was relieved to find out I didnt need to replace the entire LCD screen and instead, just the thin film at the top.

for anyone looking to find a replacement, look up "H3" grade plastic film, it fits all the ultra thin, scratch, fingerprint, glare resistant etc.

https://www.amazon.ca/TiMOVO-Feel-Paper-Protector-Compatible-Anti-Glare/dp/B091T4LCBS/ref=sr_1_4?crid=1P1VJ5H0VI8NI&keywords=3h+tablet+protector&qid=1656855636&sprefix=3h+tablet+protector%2Caps%2C117&sr=8-4

ill be buying that and seeing how it affects my prints

https://www.amazon.fr/gp/product/B09XN4NF1J/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1

I'm in Europe. However you might want to read some of the replies here, the acetate sheets might be a better option.

If you don't want to use a flex plate, you can always print with a raft and use a plastic razor blade like this one: FOSHIO 2PCS Plastic Razor Blade... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09MCRG9D5?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

I too gouged my plate a bit with the metal scraper

Try Phrozen's Aqua Green resin, it claims 21% elongation, which is way more than any other standard resin I've seen, and it really does feel more durable because of that added flex.

It also cures really fast on a Mono X (1s for 50um layer), I imagine it'll be in the same ballpark in a Mars 3.

https://www.amazon.com/PHROZEN-Aqua-Gray-UV-Curing-Photopolymer-Non-Brittle/dp/B08B4K176X

i was looking into this, this morning. When i got my first SLA machine i printed the one ring (lots of em) and a coworker wore it for a day. after 8 hours he mentioned it started to itch - i didn't know he took it and was wearing it and warned him it probably wasn't a good idea bc i didn't know much about resin at the time.

Looking back it may have been a placebo effect bc i mentioned the resin concerns first, then the coworker felt itchy. All that is to say while i have seen it printed fully cured resin is safe to touch i don't know about prolonged exposure such as jewelry. I am aware that there are resins for dental castings but i don't think that applies here as its more about the resin consistency.
Since I want the one ring, hence why i printed a bunch in my ring size, this is what I have found. maybe just maybe it will work for you. not sure I haven't tried it - i literally just found it :) (sorry for the wall)

https://www.amazon.com/Jewelry-Shield-Protective-Allergies-JWL-180-00/dp/B001OFV1T4

I wiped mine down with a clear anti stick spray

Dry PTFE by WD-40 Specialist - Anti-Friction Lube, Protect from Daily Wear and Tear Such As Window Tracks, Chains, Rollers, Leads Screws, Guide Rails- Smart Straw Narrow, Wide and 360 Spray - 400 ml https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B08XZS42XW/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_BSVCKD5DNPT00SDDSF1C?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

Spray it onto a cloth then apply the cloth to your vat, don't spray directly, this will make your vat more non stick

One example

However, you don't even need disposable ones.

I bought a metal funnel with built-in filter like this one normally used for bartending. I keep it in a tall plastic container, don't need to clean it after use. Every time I have a failure, I pour all the resin back into the bottle with it, run the tank clean, and we're back in business.

I have these, they are listed for makeup but they're literally the same as the epoxy ones.

Excellent tool for stirring and sweeping the fep and super easy to clean.

You can mix flex resin into elegoo's ABS gray, I don't know if it's compatible with the aqua green though.

I swear, no one will ever agree on anything lol

Siraya and Resione are just brand names, they aren't any better than Elegoo.

Resin is brittle by nature, printing small fragile things is not a good idea.

However, there are specialty resins that are flexible. Look for "flex resin", usually you mix it into regular resin to get something more flexible.

If you want a slightly more durable resin right out of the bottle though, try Phrozen's Aqua Green, it has "20% elasticity", which is way more than almost every other resin I've tried. It's not going to stop things from breaking, but it will help survive trauma that standard resin wouldn't. https://www.amazon.com/PHROZEN-Aqua-Gray-UV-Curing-Photopolymer-Non-Brittle/dp/B08B4K176X

You can get plastic razors on Amazon that should cause less damage if that ever occurs again.

https://www.amazon.ca/FOSHIO-Scrapers-Contoured-Refillable-Application/dp/B076BBW1WM/ref=asc_df_B076BBW1WM/?tag=googlemobshop-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=337070663652&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=5619023919474377332&hvpone=&hvptwo...

Not an expert but I reckon you'd still need something to get the air moving. I installed a kitchen extractor fan in my shed, which is probably about as airtight as your garage and works pretty well - something like this: https://www.amazon.co.uk/MANROSE-XF150BP-Extractor-Pullcord-Bathroom/dp/B01GCAUPLU/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?keywords=kitchen+extractor+manrose&qid=1651479272&sr=8-4

Are you looking for tape for on top or underneath it? If it's on top, why not use electrical tape, or vinyl 🤔 Also, there's a company that makes vinyl gaskets called Mach5ive, they also make screen protectors... Check out out:

Mach5ive Screen Saver- Clear Screen Protector for Resin 3D Printers - Mars 3 Ultra 4K - 3 Pack https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09W61FB9C/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_RBRWVQNDZP5MQVAS9C0V?psc=1

+1 for the flex plate.

Also, get yourself a screen protector for your LCD. Don't go for the expensive ones made for 3D printers, though - get a multi-pack for iPads and cut them in half. They work just as well and are MUCH more economical!

Keep a couple of replacement FEPs on-hand so, in case of failure, you're not stuck waiting for one to be delivered.

You don't need an expensive wash-n-cure station. Get a paint bucket from the craft store and line it with UV LED strip lights for your curing chamber. For the washing station this has worked really well for me.

To save more money, go to the local dollar store and get a couple pairs of yellow kitchen gloves for protection - MUCH cheaper long-term than using a fresh pair of nitrile gloves each time.

And to save money on paper towels/cleanup, go buy a box of shop rags from the local hardware or auto parts store, then get a desktop UV lamp to cure any wet resin on them.

I've been printing with resin for a little over a year, and these were the top tips I've encountered in that time. Can't stress the flex plate enough. It will make removal of your prints EXPONENTIALLY easier & faster!

How did you get the ESB port replaced? Did you diy or get a new board?

Have you tried a new USB drive?

Also..

Lexar JumpDrive S47 64GB USB 3.1 Flash Drive (LJDS47-64GABBKNA) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07XHYVN62/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_3YY9DW73777X52GZ6ADC?psc=1

Super low profile USB drive. I can't recommend it enough. I have cats and immediately got a different drive cause i expected them to step on the long 16gb one that came with the drive too.

After reading some older threads, I ordered the following screen protector and some kapton tape. I couldn't find any of the gaskets to fit the mars 3. I'd still love any feedback on this, if these will work, or if there's something better. I'll update once I get it installed.

https://www.amazon.com/Mach5ive-Screen-Saver-Protector-Printers/dp/B09H191D64?pd\_rd\_w=1upg4&pf\_rd\_p=e19298cc-53cc-437e-954a-a37f25383b20&pf\_rd\_r=7TVEFF7XN5AJGB5EPEDS&pd\_rd\_r=81b7a0e3-a045-43ff-8efa-b3b3ea213d9c&pd\_rd\_wg=l...

https://www.amazon.com/Heat-Temperature-Resistant-Adhesive-Electric/dp/B00W3FAFP0/ref=sr\_1\_5?gclid=Cj0KCQjwpImTBhCmARIsAKr58cyNBQqJlCllzgJtWd20Abqyr8EN3PvsBo2X13JB09UUlZsLI-3UqMAaAgofEALw\_wcB&hvadid=177831594219&hvdev=c&hvlocphy=906...

2 ways I know of. First way is have your resin in its bottle and place it in a bottle warmer like this https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07YJKWTYW/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_R9WNQ0J03N6NHH3R8ASP just make sure the dimensions are right. They sell them on Amazon or you can home brew it.

Second way is the way I do it because it assists with several other resin issues. I use a space heater, typically turn it on about 30 minutes before hand and it warms the whole system up, i aim for 90 degrees so if it's hot in the room I'm printing in no need for the heater. When doing it this way you want to also adjust the platform raise between layers as well, if I remember I set mine to 5mm.

Clean the threaded rod REAL good. Get a paper towel, hose it down with WD-40 or whatever. Move the print head up and down while gripping the threaded rod. Once clean, get some nice lithium grease, or my favorite, synthetic silicone lube and lube that the thing up letting the print head move up and down a bunch to spread it around.

It's a Zeny hydroponic tent.

I'll look for the links; but I have a small ceramic space heater hooked up to an auto off thermostat plug, so when the temp gets up enough it shuts the power to the heater off, and when it dips back under (I have it set to 78 - 84 degrees F) it turns back on.

The 2" duct runs from the inside fan suspended above on those cross beams to the window in the room, hooked up to one of those slatted dryer covers you would see on the outside of a house.

My "print room" is a closet surrounded on 3 sides by exterior walls, and I live in a smaller apartment, so I can attest to the setup venting fumes and keeping heat very well.

With the second printer being added, I've picked up a 12 prong smart plug (6 smart , 6 always on) so I'm excited to see if it works well for the price. If so, I'm going to set the venting fan, thermostat controlling the heater, and box fan I have in the window to auto shut off when I turn off the printers. It also means I could have them running for a few minutes before I get the printers started for the day.

I just went with one of the these

Woods Clamp Lamp Light with Aluminum Reflector, 150W, UL Listed, 6- Foot Cord https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000HHQ94C/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_5JH3JK5SZJFVEYPR09BK

With one of these bulbs

BONGBADA 2 Pack Heat Lamp Clear Infrared Bulbs PAR38/250 Watts Glass Lamp Bulb for Food Service, Brooder Bulb, Chicks, Pet, Bathroom, Light Therapy Use E26 Base, Flood Light Heat Lamp Bulb https://www.amazon.com/dp/B092Q12HFM/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_DF71R48QB1ZREZR80GXQ

Just attached it offset over the printer. Worked pretty good this winter.

Get a silicone mat and one of those spray bottles you can get from the hardware store to fill with the isopropyl. It'll make things easier during clean up.

I also highly suggest plastic razors for cleaning up any possible hardened resin that might occur and to easily get stuff off of the build plate.

Hubulk Dog Cat Food Feeding Mat https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N5F9EJJ

FOSHIO 2PCS Plastic Razor Blade https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09MCRG9D5

I got this and it was the first thing I fitted before doing any printing.

BIGTREETECH Spring Steel Build Plate for SLA/DLP 3D printer 135X75MM Flexible Build System for Resin with Magnetic Sticker for Elegoo Mars/Mars Pro, Wanhao D7, Phrozen sonic mini 4k https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B08QMSJFT9/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_1YBNBG6R9KCYHT4W1MWH?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

You have to gently send the plate down as far as it will go before tightening the bolts.

ELEGOO Mini Air Purifier with Activated Carbon Filter and Universal Adaptor for LCD,DLP,MSLA Resin 3D Printer（Pack of 2） https://www.amazon.com/dp/B086277CNQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_9YVZP5PKT9Q2ZYBK7T50?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

take the usb it came with and toss it... get yourself something like these and you'll probably see this resolved.

Get yourself a pack of the plastic razors

Double Edged Plastic Razor Blade Scrapers Knife with Contoured Grip for Scraping Labels and Decals Sticker From Glass, Windshields and Auto Window Tint Vinyl Tool Application(Scraper with 10 Blades) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07W5Z2CBQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_EJQF7B93KNQ3TEEMVSBF

They are amazing for removing prints from the print bed, and you can go nuts on the glass screen without worrying about scratching it

Specific. Needs to be ptfe. I use this: https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B089WKBZ3G that’s pricey as it’s a twin pack, one will last you longer than the printer. I saw it recommended on many places so tried it.

This recently happened on my Mars 3. Just gotta lube up the z screw. This is what I used:

Super Lube-21030 Synthetic... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000XBH9HI?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

When lubing it, I used a paper towel to wipe off the old grease, applied the lube, then worked it in/wiped off excess with another paper towel

I do indeed know how it is! If you want to see drop tests there are a bunch of YouTubers who have "found the magic mix!" Or "simple trick for indestructible prints!" Haha, they are mostly talking about the fast/tenacious mix. But anything+tenacious works since tenacious is the unique one.

Make sure to shake for a couple minutes once you've poored in the Tenatious. And mix for a minute or so before each print, maybe more if you have a few days in between prints. Tenatious alao works better in warmer temps, but that's true of all resins to a greater or lesser degree. Same goes for the mixing.

Honestly it's easier than most people make it out to be. Dial in exposure settings with a validation matrix print and you'll have no problems.

Siraya Tech Tenacious 3D Printer Resin Flexible 405nm UV-Curing Resin with High Impact Resistance Standard Photopolymer Resin for LCD DLP 3D Printing (1000g, Clear) https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07PLJ9XW9/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_6JN35QN0J19RVVHVBP01?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

Siraya Tech Fast ABS-Like 3D... https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07VBM4Z7Q?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

I was comparing to the build plates on Amazon. Something isn't right. Might be best to order a new build plate.

Honestly they’re both leftover from my old beer brewing days and there are much better options now. This controller is much cheaper than what I have. Inkbird ITC-308 Digital Temperature Controller 2-Stage Outlet Thermostat Heating and Cooling Mode Carboy Homebrew Fermenter Greenhouse Terrarium 110V 10A 1100W https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01HXM5UAC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_E2DRYTGBX7RSADGH9H8K?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

I bought this grow tent from Amazon and vent the fumes out of a window. I ended up turning it on it's side and it fits my Mars 3 and my Mercury X Wash station and curing station. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B074J876KK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Ipa and these Double Edged Plastic Razor Blade Scrapers Knife with Contoured Grip for Scraping Labels and Decals Sticker From Glass, Windshields and Auto Window Tint Vinyl Tool Application(Scraper with 10 Blades) https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B07W5Z2CBQ/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_i_ZRAY1V4VGBA3FTJK48Q4?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/Mach5ive-Stick-Vinyl-Gasket-Printers/dp/B081D4NLCH/ref=sr\_1\_3?crid=1669ZXUNLXSNM&keywords=screen+tape+3d+printer&qid=1647147919&sprefix=screen+tape+3d+printer+%2Caps%2C78&sr=8-3