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Does your gaming headset have a TRRS plug ie 4 metal zones and 3 black rings? The socket will expect a TRS stereo plug, and (especially if you're monitoring one input on just one side of the stereo pair) you may not hear anything. Something like this may be your answer.
It SHOULD be pretty straightforward..
If I were setting it up, I’d get some actual TS to RCA cables like these and hook the 2i2s rear Main L/R outs into the appropriate L/R inputs on the VSX-3700S (some of its RCA “inputs” are actually outputs btw). The Tape 1 Audio In seems a safe bet.
I’d avoid using the headphone out.
It has nothing to do with being an unbalanced/balanced connection. Balanced cables just send an inverted signal that gets flipped to reject noise. It has nothing to do with the gain and impedance issue at hand.
The issue is that the Line input is designed for line-level signals while OP is sending a Mic-level signal which is considerably weaker. Additionally, the impedance mismatching is further lowering the input gain.
An adapter can help, but only because it will send the signal to the Mic input, which is designed to receive a mic-level signal.
However, it would be best to buy decent microphone. Even a PG58 would be a step up, and would impedance match the correct input, as well.
Yes. These are the type. You will probably be able to find them cheaper since I just picked the first result.
>Presonus Quantum 2626
Sorry to bring up an old thread. Can I ask whether a cheaper device like this would do the same job as the RME digiface you mentioned to get the saffire pro 40 working?
Here's the one I bought:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B019ONZGPM?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details
My setup is now dead silent when I'm facing my PC. I'm honestly kind of flabbergasted.
I should note, though, that I also removed this monstrosity from my power chain:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B073Q3BSPG/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
So I actually made 2 changes at once. There's a possibility that the power backup was all of the noise. But I think it was the Furman; before, when I would change direction and not face the PC to lower the noise, I was facing right at the power backup. Now I can sit right in front of my PC and I get no noise.
I know this is a late response, but what they are saying is not that it can be used on two devices at once, but that by using a kvm switch or usb switch, you can effectively have the switch connected to two devices, and with the push of a button switch between which computer has access to the inputs. I use one like this to switch my webcam, microphone, and lights from being controlled by one computer to the other just by pushing a single button.
Yo, if y'all still using these headphones or for the future readers. I just bought these and have been using them for a week. They actually noticeably change the sound ever so slightly. Not in a bad way in my opinion but I'm not an audiophile. However stock pads I had were new and VERY uncomfortable and hurt my ears. With these new pads I can wear them for 12 hours and not even think about it. Highly recommend. Changed everything for these headphones and now I dont feel like I need to go buy $100+ headphones.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B089F2JZ1T?psc=1&ref=ppx\_yo2ov\_dt\_b\_product\_details
np! hope that works out well.
A kind of single USB switch could work, something like this, but I can't verify it.
Hey, thanks for the tip. Do you mind describing the method a bit more in detail please?
Are you running the 3m thunderbolt from your pc, to which you attach the 2m usb c cable, right?
What scarlett device is it connected to exactly?
This method is indeed surprising, yet a pleasant surprise.
Just want to make sure this will work before I order it.
Im normally more the "asks questions type" and not 100%, but since there are no other comments..
I think you need to use something like this on 3 and 4 because they are balanced (TS/XLR) inputs
https://www.amazon.ca/TISINO-Audio-Interconnect-Cable-Patch/dp/B07HFCV9XV
(or maybe a TS to female RCA version)
then a y-cable (rca-headphone), and then a headphone-usb-c adapter for the pixel. That should bring the volume of the pixel up to "nominal".
This is what I used on the output of the scarlet so that I can play everything my older regular stereo receiver (AVR) and speakers. Once when I wanted to record from vinyl on a tt hooked up to that receiver, I switched the lines to Input 3 and 4 on the 4i4 and the "Tape Monitor Out" rca outputs on the reciever and it worked well.
I forget exactly if they are TS, XLR, or both -but those are the adaptors i used on my 4i4
But wouldn't the adapter I already have be doing the same thing? Here: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Headphone-Adapter-Premium-Headphones-Converter-Gold/dp/B08XQTXXFX/ref=sr\_1\_2\_sspa?keywords=TRRS+Headset+to+TRS+Headphones+Adapter&qid=1659625551&sr=8-2-spons&psc=1&smid=A14NHK9HQ4VP8V&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdG...
Thank you, this makes sense. So if I used something like this, I should be able to connect one or both of the 1/4”s to the interface and get the desired results?
https://www.amazon.com/TISINO-Stereo-Y-Splitter-Cable-Breakout/dp/B083R5BJ6P
If they are normal headphones (with no headset mic) one of these will do it https://www.amazon.co.uk/rhinocables®-Socket-6-35mm-Stereo-Adapter/dp/B01FWC1MB6/ref=mp_s_a_1_1_sspa?keywords=headphone+jack+adapter&qid=1649109695&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUExRzVBVTRFU0VRU0tSJmVuY3J5cHRlZEl...
Or with a headset, one of these
Either way, I’d check your interface out first with a borrowed pair of headphones with a 1/4 plug if possible. It is most probably the adapter (and they can stop working on a whim), but best to rule out everything else as well.
So it could be the initial load if phantom power tries to build its voltage while also trying to build the charge on the condenser. I can't be sure without the actual circuit though.
By disconnecting the XLR cable, it gives it time to build voltage on the limited power. Then when you plug it in, it is a separate burst of power draw as it builds charge on the condenser. Both of these spikes probably happen at the same time of the condenser is plugged in.
I run mine off a powered USB hub, and I wonder if that might be a solution for you. Perhaps Focusrite could add a potential external power option.
Another potential option if you want to save cables might be a USB power combiner.
https://www.amazon.com/HIGHROCK-Enhancer-Female-Charge-Extension/dp/B00NIGO4NM
I've solved the issue by connecting directly the audio interface in my pc. It was previously connected to a powered usb hub (this model).
On windows it was not an issue but on Linux it was randomly stopping outputting audio. Maybe there is a power policy that needs to be changed on my setup. Either way, I can live without having it connected to a hub.
Does it also make the whole audio a little bit garbled and anything that's panned center quieter? This is pretty common with headphones that have a built in microphone. They use a different connector type (TRRS). An adapter like this should fix the issue. Or alternatively, if you have a pair of headphones without a mic, try that.
Your no audio from Youtube sounds like it could be a completely different issue though. Or it could just be you're watching videos where the audio is all centered / mono.
https://www.amazon.ca/UGREEN-Computers-Peripheral-Switcher-One-Button/dp/B01N6GD9JO
​
I'd try a usb switch.
If you need a studio monitor controller with 2 switchable inputs, there's not much about thats any cheaper, not with the option for balanced IO anyway.
If you go on Amazon and search for something like audio input switcher you'll find stuff like this: https://www.amazon.co.uk/LiNKFOR-Switcher-Support-Selector-Headphone/dp/B08L3BQCF7/r - this will work with the right cables / config if you need 2 inputs / one output.
Is it all audio from the Focusrite that sounds like this? It's kind of unclear since you said "through other apps".
If you're using headphones with a built in mic, this might be the problem. They have a different connector (TRRS) than standard headphones (TRS). If this is the problem, you can use an adapter like this to fix it.
If anyone is looking for a tried and true product, I bought this adapter on amazon last week because I was having these issues, and it works like a charm with my apple headphones
In that case you need an HDMI audio splitter.
For example: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Neoteck-Extractor-Optical-Converter-Splitter-DAC-1080P/dp/B01GH4MEYC
I wouldn't recommend running the audio to the Focusrite just so you can output to the speakers unless you need to record the audio, or hear both the PS5 and PC at the same time. A better solution would be to get a monitor controller, like a Mackie Big Knob Passive: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Mackie-Passive-Studio-Monitor-Controller/dp/B01NCUZ32O
The Mackie has two inputs and two outputs and allows you to switch between the them. I use one to connect a turntable.
This is the exact post I was looking for so thanks for sharing this!
Question for my situation: I switch between my Mac Mini (usually work and music) and my PC (usually streaming and gaming) so I need to switch other peripherals as well such as mouse, keyboard, webcam and stream deck. Do you think something like this would work the same for me? Sorry if this is hijacking your post.
You need the right type of splitter for this to work, like this - https://www.amazon.co.uk/MillSO-Headset-Splitter-Separate-Headphone-Blue/dp/B086SVGDMV/
You'll also need an XLR to 3.5mm adapter. Depending on the type of mic, you may need one that will convert phantom power to "plug in power", like this https://www.rode.com/accessories/vxlrplus
Thinking something like this could work?
I have had this thought for a while and if my theory is correct and I understand audio. Ps4/ps5 allow external sound card for usb headsets. for example this 1 https://www.amazon.com/PHOINIKAS-External-Headphone-Microphone-Desktops/dp/B07FP8PG9N/ref=asc_df_B07FP8PG9N/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=309779531175&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=14791132089467558960&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9017776&hvtargid=pla-570612970993&psc=1&tag=&ref=&adgrpid=62412137260&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvadid=309779531175&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=14791132089467558960&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9017776&hvtargid=pla-570612970993 it has 3 3.5mm jack, 1 for mic a 2 for headphones I was thinking that plugging a red and white cable from the scarlett pre-amp to 3.5mm in the mic of the sound card it would output pc audio too if setup. I use the red/white cable setup to a sony stereo system and it outputs mic monitoring when it is on.
That’s the camera connection kit from Apple. You need that but you’ll probably want multiple usb ports do something like this powered hub will complete the setup.
The CM25 is ~45mm in diameter, so any generic shockmount that holds LDCs that large should work.
Thanks a lot for the help. just the last question, does that work with both 3 and 4 pin?? also can I just use this instead just a single cable like this or that wont work?
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00Y2LANPU/ref=ewc_pr_img_2?smid=AKXVBT49GGF3B&psc=1
You should use an adapter like this along with the 3.5mm to 1/4" adapter.
If you're jamming only do you actually need to run the amp into anything else?
If the feedback and unduly high gain happens before you even connect to the 8i6, then it sounds like an amp issue, or at least interaction between amp and inexpensive pickups; possibly blanket the amp, face guitar and amp opposite directions?
If you're recording, (presumably with amp muted by the headphone socket being used, and listening to everything via the 8i6 monitor outputs)? the amp headphone output will be way above the level a line or even instr. input is expecting on the 8i6. A DI box with a hefty pad between amp output and 8i6 would probably solve it, and would tame the level, or just mic. the amp instead? s/hand SM57 around £40 in UK, or cheap as chips Behringer C2s (around £50 a pair)?
If you must use the h/phone socket, even on a mono amp., weird things might conceivably happen with mono jack in h/phone socket, so you probably ought to use something like https://www.amazon.co.uk/6-35mm-Splitter-Insert-Vitalco-Adapter-Black/dp/B07WTP3TLV/ref=sr_1_5?crid=2H06255704IZ6&keywords=calbe+6.5+stereo+to+2+6.5+mono+jack&qid=1641204126&s=electronics&sprefix=calbe+6.5+stereo+to+2+6.5+mono+jack%2Celectronics%2C50&sr=1-5
before the DI box, then use 2 inputs on the 8i6 for the guitar
Buy any USB-C to USB-C cable. I use this: https://www.amazon.ae/UGREEN-Charging-Compatible-Samsung-MacBook/dp/B087LY3Z63/ref=pd_sbs_6/257-6036785-8804032?pd_rd_w=mSRsc&pf_rd_p=7060189e-4c71-4cf6-ad5c-f706002399dc&pf_rd_r=TJFE0RR6BCCMJWX5M871&pd_rd_r=5219eb96-caba-42f2-86a3-622542305473&pd_rd_wg=e6APa&pd_rd_i=B087LY3Z63&psc=1
This should fit any of the 3 USB-C cables you have.
Download Focusrite Control with instructions given with your interface.
That's all.
Not the best speakers, but they should work. You need a 3.5mm female stereo jack to 2x 6.5mm male mono jack converter cable to connect them to your solo. E.g. https://www.amazon.com/TNP-3-5mm-Stereo-Breakout-Adapter/dp/B079JQQSCC
Acme Furniture Eleazar Music Recording Studio Desk, Black Oak
i love it. the only thing about it that i have no idea why they did was under the spots where i have the speakers, its open! I actually took apart dinner tray tables and screwed em in my self so that I could utilize that space.
Wow. I literally just posted about this same subject on a 4i4 and learned a ton from the responses. So to answer your question, the rear inputs are LINE only and do not have any pre-amp capability like the front inputs do. If your buddies are using LINE inputs you should be good to go with the rear. If they’re not, you’re going to find the rear inputs to be really really quiet.
I wanted the ability and flexibility to put any input into the rear inputs, so I bought a ART CleanBox Pro off Amazon for $79. It can boost 2 channels. It arrives Thursday.
ART CLEANBox Pro Dual Channel Level Converter (CLEANBOXPRO)
The only other issue is that Scarlet 4i4 has only 1 headphone Jack. Not sure what an 8i6 has. So if you need more than 1 headphone mix, you’re going to need something like a Berhinger HA400 to have separate headphone levels. Just learned this like 5 minutes ago, so I’m still doing my research on this.
Hope this helps.
Hi there,
You'd need to use some software to aggregate the devices for this. Something like ASIO4ALL is your best bet: http://www.asio4all.org/
You use ASIO4ALL as the output device for the programs and route the audio to both the Focusrite and your headset
i installed the focusrite usb asio driver that is downloadable from focusrite site for the scarlett 2i2 interface.
i want to try the flexASIO driver. it provides multiclients to make use of the driver where the asio driver does not. on my win7 it appears to the be case.
the is the site for FlexASIO, https://github.com/dechamps/FlexASIO
my question was if installing the FlexASIO driver, will it conflict with the focusrite usb&asio driver?
These are TRRS so the extra path here is probably the cause of the issue. You can get an adapter that splits the mic and headphone signal so you can connect the headphones end to the Scarlett
I use this to clean scratchy potentiometers. Open the product enclosure and spray into the potentiometer.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00006LVEU?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2_dt_b_product_details
Those speakers are expecting a stereo signal, so it might be tough to use the dual mono signals from the Scarlett's speaker outputs. You'd have to use something that takes an unbalanced TS mono signal from the Scarlett and converts that to an unbalanced stereo TRS signal for the speaker. You can't use a stereo TRS cable because the Scarlett will read it as balanced mono.
Two of these cables connected from each output to each speaker should theoretically work.
Yes, I do have a separate plug for each speaker. This is the speaker (i have two of these)
Is that because using the pre-amp changes the input from unbalanced to balanced?
Also would this work if you had more things to input (or say you only had a 2i2)
Donner Audio Mixer, Portable Stereo Line Mixer,4-Channel,As Microphones,Guitars,Keyboards or Stage Sub Mixer,Ideal for Club or Bar.With AC adapter,Stereo/Mono Adjustment,New Version-DEL-8i2 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08P35NKX8/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_VV7C6XCC91DP92PK25SP?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
The headphone jack doesn't match your amp input. Don't use that. You are at greater risk of damaging your amp.
Use either the Left or Right monitor output. Make sure you monitor in mono. Or, use 2 amps (l and r) and have some sick stereo 😱
It may not be necessary due to the volume button on the focusrite, but I started using a reamp box between my interface and amp. Basically, the monitor out is a liiiitle too hot, and the reamp box attenuates that signal to match what a guitar would send.
The reamp box is also a fun DYI project that only requires a few cold conductive solders.
You'll want to be extra careful with gain settings. Basically do this test: plug the guitar in amp, set desired volume. Then hook through the interface and level it so it sounds the same volume. This will ensure that you retain the dynamics of your amp/speaker.
Are you recording or playing a live venue? If you're recording, consider recording just the dry guitar without effects, directly into the interface. Then, playback the recording through the amp using the reamp box and record the amp. This technique means you can change/adjust the sound without having to play the parts all the time and is generally a huge time saver. Sometimes I'll borrow my friend's amp for a day just to run my tracks through it and I don't need to bother about getting correct takes because they are already done, so it becomes a really fun creative process.
Theres something about recording the same take on 2 amps and playing that L/R too. Miam.
Not exactly sure what the difference is, this is the one I have and I think this is a dock since it can run off its own power from micro USB: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07TS5JNT3?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
You need to go from 1/4 jack TRS (focusrite headphone out) to 1/8 jack TRS (wifi box line in).
If you don't want to use your line ins, you will have to use something like this to use the SP/DIF input.
The speakers themselves are just a pair of logitech computer speakers.
I have the Solo hooked up to the speakers using a 1/8" female to 1/4" male TS cable like this.
I tested the speakers through the headphone out using a 1/8" female to 1/4" male adapter like this. This is the same one I use to connect my headphones.
What adapter are you trying to use right now? Is it just a regular 3.5mm to 1/4in? If you are trying to use a standard 3.5mm to 1/4in adapter it probably isn't taking out the microphone ring like it should. You probably need to pair your adapter with a special TRRS to TRS adapter like this one on Amazon. Any one that converts TRRS to TRS works though, that is just the one I have.
Also if you're trying to stick it in part way to disconnect the microphone ring, it is only going to be mono, because the tip has to be all the way in for it to be stereo.
I tried with 48 phantom power, tried different mics. Its the same. By the way below is the link for the xlr adaptor i baught.
It would depend on the output of your iPhone. If you have a headphone jack, then something like this would work. You have to have dual 1/4" and use both inputs on your 2i2 to have stereo.
so you want to record the stereo outputs of your lp60 to Scarlett solo that is what I am understanding is that correct ? you can use something like - https://www.amazon.com/Tisino-Stereo-Y-Splitter-Return-Insert/dp/B07K58QSGC
but the drawbacks are you won't be able to record in stereo in your DAW as you are combining a stereo signal into a mono signal
the second drawback is that relying on these cheap splitter cables can often damage your equipment.
I think you mean USB-Type B to USB-Type C. They have good ones on Amazon here:
Chroma Cables: Audio Optimized USB-C to USB-B Cable with 56K Resistor (Red) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07CPF347T/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_BVM0BHJEADWHJDTZ5N9J
I use these for my studio :)
I don't think this is possible. The PS5 only has one 3.5 mm jack for both headset input and output if I am not wrong hence it is not possible to directly connect that into the Focusrite. Yes you can use something like an audio/mic splitter like this -https://www.amazon.com/Kingtop-Adapter-Tablet-Headsets-Version/dp/B01I3A47I4/ref=sr_1_4?dchild=1&keywords=Headphone+Mic+Splitter&qid=1613216007&sr=8-4
But I recommend not doing so as you cannot trust these cables if they go faulty you may end up damaging your PS5 or your Focusrite. I would suggest the best option is to buy an usb c mic and plug it directly into your PS5
please correct me if I am wrong about the PS5 3.5 mm jack
Im using a cheap microphone off Amazon with an XLR cord...
This one : https://www.amazon.com/Recording-Microphone-EIVOTOR-Condenser-Podcasting/dp/B07YKMH6QG
Everything else (midi instrument sounds) sounds fine.
I've just bought a Focusrite Scarlett 18i20 3rd Gen USB Audio Interface
Assumed that the M1 would be fully supported by now and was horrified to find that it's completely useless. Do I send it back to Amazon now and find an alternative? If the beta version of 'Control' doesn't even support M1 chips have I just bought a turkey interface.
Any similar alternatives I could look into which have managed to make their software compatible with the biggest home computer OS yet??
Huh that makes sense. I actually purchased a usb condenser a really long time ago. Here is the link to it. I had issues with it either picking up everything in my house or nothing at all. Do you think it could be worth just as a test run to get like an aux splitter for my headphones and try and use that mic again via usb as a proof on concept? Wouldn't have the audio interface, but could at least try and see if that fits my needs since I have it somewhere.
Absolutely waste of money to me. The podcaster sounds bad, really has no voice depth, completely flat sound and is more expensive than the NT1a. If you had to decide between nt1a and sm7b it would have been hard, but between podcaster/sm58 and nt1a, definitely nt1a. At same gain level, the dynamic ones pick less background noise, but have lower “volume” and worse sound quality. As I already said, lowering the gain on nt1a will get you same voice volume, same background noise but much better quality. I wouldn’t even question which one is better. Go for nt1a, 2i2 3rd gen(or solo 3rd gen if you really don’t want to spend those 30$ more, which to me are absolutely worth it, because of double xlr and double knob so that you can control separately front and back outputs) and then get one of those 40$ arms with no springs (like this)
did you figure this out? there is a direct monitor button on the front panel.
i imagine the adapter you used for your headphones is likely a 3.5mm to 1/4" TRS adapter right? like this?
Nope. There isn't.
The basic limitation is that you are using a laptop, and laptops are designed for one primary concern: long battery life. So the OS and the hardware does a bajillion little things to maximize the battery life, including turning off ports that "aren't being used".
This is coded deeply into the system, and not available via System Preferences.
And as far as "buying another piece of hardware", you are talking about a $15 powered USB hub... not a $100 device. <strong>https://www.amazon.com/atolla-Charging-Splitter-Individual-Switches/dp/B083XTKV8V</strong>
Ok, so with direct monitoring in, I do hear my mic and inputs. My output device is set to Focusrite USB when it's plugged in automatically and my input is set to Analogue 1 + 2 focusrite usb audio just like when I use the USb a to c cable that works. The fr device settings says the clock source is usb internal and clock status synced. I can't find anything else to change in any settings panels.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B083LWW3MN/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
This is the cable that I'm using, but would it be synced if it was a bad cable?
99% of the time when I see issues like this it has to do with the adaptor. Some are 2-connectors (tip, ring, and sleeve) and some are 3 connectors (tip, ring, ring, and sleeve).
Here's an example on Amazon, so you can see the difference in the tip: https://www.amazon.com/Movo-MC3-Microphone-Adapter-Smartphones/dp/B01N9CJDVE
My guess is that you don't have the right adaptor, and the proper rings are not making connection when fully plugged in, and not connecting tight when only partially plugged in.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07DPN7VYF/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I have this cable, and another one almost exactly like it, along with the default. I don't think this is a usb-c, but I also don't know much about cables.
That's USB Type B, like this.
Hey, you can just use adapter like this one. (Note: I found some random link, I bought mine in a local music store, was a bit more $, but nothing special, around 10$, would not suggest buying cheep adapters).
I have the HyperX Cloud Alpha headphones, it works just fine.
Well, anything with a traditional plug would work (although you’re going to want to make sure you have the little 1/8 to 1/4 adapter if they have a smaller jack). For me, comfort is key. I teach piano and voice lessons for a good chunk of time, so I wanted a pair that barely felt like I was wearing them. I went with open-back headphones, which allow more sound to pass through them and also do not create that pressure that traditional cans create within your ear. Also, as a singer, it allows me to hear my own voice while wearing them, which is key. The ones I picked up were Philips Audio Philips SHP9500... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ENMK1DW?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
There's the problem... you SHOULD BE USING AN ADAPTOR!!
Like this (MAKE SURE IT'S STEREO):
https://www.amazon.com/LINDY-Stereo-Female-Audio-Adapter/dp/B01GAU8474
I can't even believe the headphones "fit" into the Scarlett headphone jack ...
They are 2 different sized jacks ...
It depends, really.
Some dynamic mics have a very high resistance, and will get a weak but useable signal through Line Inputs.
Lower resistance dynamic mics will struggle to push enough output signal through to be usable in a Line Input.
Unfortunately, preamp boosters typically rely on Phantom Power to boost the signal, but a line input will not have phantom power available.
If OP absolutely must use a dynamic mic into a Line Input, the best bet is to plug it in with a bog-standard xlr to 1/4 adapter. If the signal is loud enough with the specific mic, you're done.
If not you can try to use a transformer adapter that changes the signal from low to high impedance - that will net you some usable gain - sometimes in excess of 20dB.
Keep in mind that affecting the resistance of a mic signal will impart sonic changes to the tone, though. They might be pleasant but they might not.
It is possible, but it will be difficult to get an acceptably loud enough sound depending on the dynamic mic used, as the line input does not use the mic preamp to boost the signal.
You can try to use a transformer adapter that changes the signal from low to high impedance - that will net you some usable gain - sometimes in excess of 20dB.
I managed to get mine to work by plugging it into a different USB adapter.
I've got the new MacBook and bought one of these:
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B015YRD8HK/ref=twister_B015YRD7IA?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I haven't had trouble with any other device with this adapter, but for some reason this one did. I swapped it out for the Apple branded USBA->USBC adapter and everything worked.
After googling a ton, I found someone who plugged one of their Focusrite devices into their monitor's USB port and found that it worked, while plugging directly into their machine didn't work, which is why I even thought to try that.
I hope that helps you a little..