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Yes mini sump pumps are used.
They look like this.
Little Giant 554425 80 GPH 1/30 HP Automatic Condensate Pump with Safety Switch for HVAC, Dehumidifier, Furnace, Air Conditioner, 115 Volts https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000SM342Q/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_R39W6XKENXC6Q4G6FMRN
Check out this book. The author goes into this and other overlooked ways to save material in chapter 2. (He even uses the exact image you linked.)
A lot of other posters seem to be dismissing this as not saving that much money. But the author gives all kinds of examples about how being smart about keeping components aligned cascades down the line. But when you stay in this "lego block" mentality, small savings roll into big bucks. Being smart about staying in standard unit lengths not only saves on the framing, but also the flooring, roofing, windows, carpeting, ductwork, plumbing, and trim.
Would be very unlikely, you could ask the insurance company if they tested the stucco for asbestos to confirm. If they say no and have assumed or classified it to contain asbestos without microscopic analysis, they could be wrong. Asbestos sampling requires polarized light microscopy (PLM) for defensible results.
When added to stucco, asbestos provides additional fire resistance although this building material would already resist embers from a wildfire. It also provides noise isolation and strengthens the stucco. Most stucco manufacturers have found other compounds to offer similar protection after asbestos bans started to take effect around 1990.
In the highly unlikely event the stucco contains asbestos, if left undisturbed, it poses no risk of exposure to anyone in the area.
In the end, this classification for your home likely notes better fire resistance and your insurance premiums are less as a result. Though the insurance company should update this to avoid alarming anyone.
If you are interested in learning more about asbestos please read my ebook it's free for Amazon Kindle Unlimited members or a low cost educational guide for non-members.
https://www.amazon.com/Asbestos-Exposed-definitive-identification-including/dp/B08H566HPS
We got this book called "What Your Contractor Can't Tell You" and have found it really helped boost our confidence. It's written by a general contractor and basically advises you on how to knowledgeably protect your interests without being a total pain in the ass. It might not be the perfect book, but we have found it a fabulous resource when interviewing architects and builders. It is empowering but realistic. Can't recommend it enough.
Edit: note it was recommended to me by a builder in the Houzz forums.
Well, obviously I'm not the best source and it's not done, but here you go:
Spammy but anonymous file sharing site
I think I stripped out all the personal, builder, and community information but if I didn't please ignore it.
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Some things I would verify myself since I would visit the site regularly. The bank will have regular inspections (with a construction loan) and the municipality inspects too. I'm still on the fence about if I should get my own inspector.
That I don't know, I've only casually read through the local Nextdoor.com chatter about it. The last one mentioned getting a quote of $30K for his driveway, and I assume it was new construction. Yes, demand definitely drives up the cost out here. The building season is so short, and out here there's an enormous demand for builders that it can easily take 18+ months just to get a builder started on a project.
That seems absurdly expensive because they think they're a niche product but really they're just renamed what already exists. Masterplug in the UK do something similar for £14 so over £100 cheaper.
Edit: link but really any outdoor rated junction box will do from a local hardware store then just seal around the outside with silicone or caulk as well as around where you'll drill through to the conduit if going directly through the back or if you want to see bulk to it add an elbow and go up or in the side.
We did it in Texas for 15 months, and it was rough. Shade is your friend. The AC up top was not nearly enough, so we got 2 portable Pinguino ACs. It was so humid, those could produce gallons of condensation per day, and we had to put concrete mixing trays under them (with aquarium pumps to move that water outside...and outlet switches for the pumps). I hope your RV is well-insulated enough that you don't need to rig anything like that.
Do get a heated water hose, tho.
Really recommend this book. It’ll explain the whole homebuilding process, the major decisions and their relative trade offs.
Congrats on the job, I also just got one with a home builder!
There are books on this like this: https://www.amazon.com/Nail-Your-Numbers-Construction-Estimating/dp/0982670907/ref=sr_1_3?dchild=1&keywords=construction+estimating&qid=1611372323&sr=8-3
There are probably JLC articles on this, you can buy old issues.
NS Builders on YouTube talks a lot about what makes a successful builder and his business, as well as having a podcast.
I wouldnt use butyl tape to tape plywood. but thats just me. its not as sticky as the huber stuff.
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i used 3m flashing tape which is as sticky as huber (maybe more sticky but its cheaper since its not as wide)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00I2TUC3G/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
This is probably the most important part of your house design.
check out this book: https://www.amazon.com/Sun-Wind-Light-Architectural-Strategies/dp/0470945788
https://www.archdaily.com/900418/how-to-implement-passive-solar-design-in-your-architecture-projects
I'd start with a book (or books) on building code. There are some great illustrated manuals these days--example: https://www.amazon.com/Code-Check-Illustrated-Guide-Building/dp/1631869027/ref=sr_1_8?dchild=1&keywords=building+codes+illustrated&qid=1594758567&sr=8-8. This will show you what is required and many will give a little detail as to why. From there you can take what is required and adapt it to your personal building situation--where you want outlets, where you want switches, where you want sinks/toilets, and so on. Good luck with your learning!
A caulk needle tip would be easier.
Check the "related items" on that page, there are even thinner ones.
Not sure what you are asking, but it sounds like you are asking about Architectural visualization (archvis). I have been using Unity and Unreal for this.
You might check out Unreal Twinmotion: https://www.unrealengine.com/en-US/twinmotion for something fun and easy, if you already have a 3d CAD model, say from Sketchup or similar.
This is the one I bought - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00UCIOWRM/ref=cm_sw_r_apanp_65AnXOA6zGAs5
As another commenter said, don't skimp on the upgrades, they really do make a huge difference. This is my second upgrade and I'm now wishing that I had gone with the luxury model becuase the reserve tank that holds the warm water does run out after a minute or two, and takes a few minutes to heat up again. I would recommend going with the luxury model if you can swing it. After I finish my own home build the one I have will go in the guest bathroom so I can have the luxury model in my master.
Also, if you are like me and practically gag at bathroom stink, the in bowl air filter is a God send. You'll never have to smell bathroom spray desperately trying to mask poo stink again!
Ever since my trip to Japan I have been slowly working to convert my friends and family to bidets so that I don't have to miss it when I go to visit haha!
It will not be too big, but it WILL be too high.
We have an 80" on about a 6' wall. It looks like you have an 8' wall. It will not look too big.
But, our TV is about 3' off the ground, and it's a joy to watch and feels completely natural while seated. It feels right, and anything mounted higher now drives me nuts.
If you want it parked above the fireplace, have you considered an articulated arm that pulls it away from the wall and lowers it, such as this:
https://www.amazon.com/MantelMount-MM340-Above-Fireplace-Mount/dp/B01MS1MHET
[disclaimer: if your wife is unhappy with the size, she may always be unhappy with the size, and you will just have to deal with her ire.]
I’ve just learned that mice hate the smell of peppermint. We sprayed this all around our cabin and I’m looking forward to seeing if it convinced our mice to shove off.Peppermint spray
Also, couple of things we’re thinking about with our build: think of efficiency. Low-e windows, insulation, sealing the home, these are all things to take into consideration. Right now I’m getting quotes on windows and doors to plan for higher efficiency. 2x6 framing for added insulation on the exterior. Going with rock wool insulation most likely. Zip sheathing to keep more air tight. Mini split system for energy efficiency.
Good resource for framing is “The Very Efficient Carpenter” my Larry Haun.
> However, my contractor is saying now his concrete guy is recommending fiberglass and glue to prevent cracking.
Is he talking about fiberglass rebar: https://www.owenscorning.com/en-us/composites/product/flatworkfiberglassrebar
Or fiberglass addmixure: https://www.amazon.com/Fishstone-Glass-Fiber-Reinforced-Concrete/dp/B07CSWYCZ6?source=ps-sl-shoppingads-lpcontext&ref_=fplfs&psc=1&smid=A1L1IRIV9DEJ7J
What glue is he talking about?
I think you should have a conversation with the contractor so you can be educated on what he is doing. He should be able to give you product names and explain the whole how and why of what he wants to do.
How about your basic pocket door hardware with lock: https://www.amazon.com/HOMOTEK-Privacy-Sliding-Door-Lock/dp/B083XTP3F7/ref=sr_1_3_sspa?crid=2BW091886VTWJ&keywords=pocket%2Bdoor%2Bhardware&qid=1663594131&sprefix=pocket%2Bdoor%2B%2Caps%2C95&sr=8-3-spons&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbG...
We are in the process of building a home as well, I bought a bunch of sharkbite shutoff valves when they were on sale for about $8 each. I am planning on adding them in the basement for outdoor faucets for sure.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075K83DTQ
Nice thing about the ones I bought is you can drain and vent. Great for extreme cold temperatures. We just have to remember to shut them off in the basement before it gets too cold outside.
I don’t see anything wrong in adding shutoff valves for everything inside too. As long as they are good quality, should come in handy.
The Complete Guide to Contracting Your Home by Kent Lester and Dave McGuerty was the most useful step-by-step homebuilding book I've read, and it includes a lot of tips on how to reduce costs.
Read this: https://www.amazon.com/Running-Successful-Construction-Company-Pros/dp/1561585300
It sounds like you need to get a better grasp of business ideas and company structures as well, just start searching YouTube there are tons of videos on LLCs Accounting Book keeping etc.
Does your state required a general contractors license insurance bonding etc?
Every time you see someones van or truck or whatever around town stop and say Hi and get to know them.
I should have mentioned. We have pella black fiberglass windows. Black sconces on both side of the front door and black garage exterior light. all lights
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Leaning heavily toward a single color for the soffits and walls in Satin at this point(they don't have egg shell). Trim will be same color, but semi gloss.
Quick changes i would do. Wide fireplace to accommodate the TV but have a motorized drop down like this one https://www.amazon.com/VIVO-Electric-Fireplace-Adjustable-Motorized/dp/B08B1XD86V/ref=sr_1_4?crid=3QO3FW19F2C6M&keywords=TV+fireplace+mount&qid=1649174732&sprefix=tv+fireplace+mount%2Caps%2C281&sr=8-4
Purchase a Samsung Frame TV and have the mount recessed into the wall. When tv is up it will fit flat to the wall and look like a piece of art work, when down it will allow for more comfortable viewing positions.
Kitchen Layout decision is odd, the gap between the stove to the fridge is wasted. I'd completely redesign that area of the house. Also the bar sink is useless since the kitchen sink is 10ft away from it.
Washer and dryer will be loud at nighttime if you run them then. You could install insulation and double layer the drywall to help stop the sound transfer with gluing between panels.
Secondary porch off of the office is interesting, personally myself I would've just done landscaping in that area.
The half bath upstairs is useless there is the jack and jill 10ft away and it will suffice, does a 3000 sq ft home really need 5 toilets?
Overall I see a lot of unnecessary space and choices, biggest issue I have is the flow of the kitchen space and over abundant washrooms.
Go to the county assessor site and look at their material. The easiest way to lower an assessment is not having a finished basement when the county appraises. They'll also have a list of what is real property and is subject to tax or assessment (greenhouses, trailers, etc.) Typically, farm land is subject to a lot less per acre, but you can designate farm land in certain areas.
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WRT your gardening plan: food-forests aren't really tenable and be wary of literature that tells you homesteading on small acreage is realistic. Gardening/farming and animal husbandry is exceptionally hard and time consuming. I'd recommend both volumes of this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B093F177F5/ref=dbs\_a\_def\_rwt\_bibl\_vppi\_i0
So $1800 seems ridiculous. Even for built in. We have some cheap plug into the wall ones that work just fine. Everyone has their own tastes but I’ll never go back now that I have them. I’d never pay that much for them though. If they’ll let you I’d totally tack that into the rest of your lighting budget.
Under Cabinet Lighting, Ultra Thin 54 LEDs Wireless Motion Sensor Closet Light, Rechargeable USB Powered 2500mAh, Softer Bright Magnetic Motion Light Bars for Kitchen Bedroom Wardrobe(2Packs) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B089QNNL8L/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_BBXAWBN9HCEM798CZJ45?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
The Hinkley will be better made obviously so you're paying mostly for labor and material. It's iron and cast brass, so sure it will "last" longer and patinate more nicely over time.
The SeaGull appears to be welded steel which in my mind is totally fine.
You just need to decide what you'll care about in 10 years. Do you think you'll look up at this light 10 years from now and say "Man, I should have gotten the one with the cast ball"
Here you go: Klein Tools 935DAG Digital Electronic Level and Angle Gauge, Measures 0 - 90 and 0 - 180 Degree Ranges, Measures and Sets Angles https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07ZWW3BW5/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_i_S72W1HFN1PSBQH1T9K3D?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I’ve read through these books (linking one but two books in total) The Builder's Companion: Zero to Building Permit, Your Complete Guide to Home Building, Book 1, US/Canada Edition https://www.amazon.ca/dp/0645095907/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_359390CC8N97SCYX7K85?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Also subbed to “how to build your own home” channel. Some good insights.
I used this one and it has been fairly reliable https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07TKKPTL3/ref=ppx\_yo\_dt\_b\_search\_asin\_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I paired it with a SIM card from T-Mobile that cost me $5 per month and an SD card. This one can show currently what is happening as well as record whenever there is any motion.
this was just from research, at this point I'd look for a VOC sensor to get real data. I have this in my cart to get at some point, but there are a ton of knockoffs on amazon... https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B078ZS8RVL
Our house is around the same size as yours (5 Bed/4 Bath) and we have the same layout you describe (Tankless water heater, water softener and humidifier).
Like you, we are also on city water, but decided to get a whole house water filter anyway.
Very happy we did so, turns out our city water is highly chlorinated and has a ton of iron. The filter makes the water taste much better.
As one of the other posters mentioned, this will filter out helpful minerals also, so something to be cognizant of.
I love our tankless heater. Unlimited hot water. I would not go back to a regular tank.
Agree with the other poster that you should think about a hot water recirculation system.
This will give you hot water within a couple of seconds in your showers and sinks.
Be careful though... If you connect a recirculation pump directly to the tankless heater you may void the warranty on your tankless heater.
With our situation, we had to buy a small 7 gallon mini-tank, and then hook the recirculation pump to the 7 gallon tank.
As for maintenance, every year we descale your humidifier and I've been told that I should descale the tankless ever year but I've been too lazy to do it yet.
For the small 7 gallon mini-tank, we have to replace the sacrificial anode rod about every 3 years.
We are supposed to replace the filter in the whole house filter every 6 months but we do it every 3 months due to how much iron and chlorine is in our city water.
Best of luck to you.
Same but I used this Home Masters for the home. https://www.amazon.com/Home-Master-Filter-Sediment-Carbon/dp/B005A3WPA0/ref=mp_s_a_1_49?keywords=whole+house+water+filter&qid=1636575178&sr=8-49
I've got a sub to Masterclass and my wife and I watched Kelly's interior design class.
She has lot of good tips, information and design philosophy.
BUT you have to be able to mentally separate her processes from the stuff she makes for HER clients which are wealthy and eccentric and apply it to your project.
This book and others like it. You can try and you can succeed. And you can spend a lot of money, spend time and the result will not satisfy you. But you will have valuable experience.
I'm just finishing up this book that you might enjoy: https://www.amazon.com/dp/0226472671/ref=sr_aod_dp_ttl
Check out NSBuilders on YouTube if you want to see how an actual professional GC runs things and what you should expect from your GC.
Hey! You seem like the kind of guy who would be interested in my construction management app. It's particularly good for narrowing down where budgets are being exceeded and avoid overruns before they start.
It's in beta right now and I'd love to have you try it out and give me feedback for how well it works for you!
I always wanted one or two of these sweepovac types of setup in a few closets. There's ones that attach to a shop vac so it's not like a 1-2 time use before emptying the tiny bag. This would require an outlet inside the closet.
Also, I'm a fan of these mirrors in the bathroom, and wall-mounted TVs with integrated power and cable management inside the wall.
Last but not least, every house I've lived in have had garage outlets way too deep in the garage. I'd rather not route an extension cord from the damn ceiling or from the very back wall of the garage, so I would put one close to the garage door on each side. Useful for pressure washers and shop vacs.
I found this book really helpful. https://www.amazon.com/What-Your-Contractor-Cant-Tell/dp/0979983800
Also, you may want to check if any of the contractors in your area offer "pre-construction planning". This basically is a package that you pay for that they will make with you that specifies all of the details of the house, down to # of outlets, etc. This way, when you bid the contract out, you can get a very specific apples-to-apples number.
I just bought this one for under $800, and the resolution blows the $2k+ cameras out of the water!!
I'm planning on installing it on a drone, but I still don't really know how. Any suggestions?
Thanks for posting this. I had no idea such a product even existed, and after looking into this model, I bought its galvanized big brother, currently on-sale making it the same price and maybe the better bargain,
Now if I can just get them to dig the hole for me....
I just purchased this book. Came highly recommended from a builder I know. We just decided to build a custom. Good luck!
Be Your Own House Contractor: Save 25% without Lifting a Hammer https://www.amazon.com/dp/1580178405/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_NW5WPN286MQ5T7Z2VY03
Sorry, I was thinking about the Flir ones. Is this what you are recommending?
I'd really recommend picking up a copy of this book.
The author walks through the entire process of building a house, step-by-step. He very clearly lays out the different options and what tradeoffs come with them. Most importantly he comes at it from the lens of being cost-effective and easy ways to save money in the process. Even if you don't end up being your own GC, it'll really help you understand how to control costs.
I'd recommend reading this book. It basically lays out all the steps to building a home, what the options and tradeoffs are, and the best way to save money if you decide to be your own contractor.
No expert here. But Looks just like affixed led strips. WOBANE LED Under Cabinet Lighting Kit,Flexible LED Ribbon Lights Bar,Under Counter Lights for Kitchen,Cupboard,Desk,Showcase,Shelf,6.6 Feet Rope Light Set,UL Listed,120 LED,1200lm,6000K White,4 Panel https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07FFRXX72/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_FBPY56YV5GKXZ89DZ6DV?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Wired versus wireless is like Coke versus Pepsi, Chevy versus Ford. Ask 100 people and you'll get 100 different answers.
When it comes to wireless versus wired, If given the choice, I will choose wired in a heartbeat.
For item #1, couple of things to think about (not trying to convince you either way, but just a few things to think about).
- A determined burglar can overpower wireless security devices. They don't need James Bond style gadgets or anything. Basically they can create a 3-4 foot bubble of interference, and when they get close to your door they can pry open the door and the wireless sensor can't alert the main unit.
- With wires, you can run the cables inside the walls and then have hidden sensors in the doors/windows. Burglars can't easily cut the wires hidden inside your walls.
- Most wireless door/window security devices need batteries that occasionally need to be changed. With wired devices, the sensors get their power from the main security system. For example, I have a total of 46 hidden sensors in all my exterior windows/doors. I don't have to worry about replacing batteries in any of them.
We custom built our home a while back so I totally understand the running out of money part. To save you some money, will the builder allow you personally to run cables? It is not very difficult. You don't even have to terminate the cables right now, just run them to the various rooms and keep them hidden behind the wall for now. In the future you can then install a face plate and terminate them.
Best of luck to you.
That controller allows you to have the shower head, wand, and body sprayers on at the same time...but it takes a lot of water pressure. This is the first time I used it (picked by client), so I'm not sure if I can recommend it yet! The buttons themselves have a nice solid feel to them, but I wonder how it will hold up over time.
Here's a link to the system on Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07XB67M6D/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I am lucky enough to have power to the property and installed something close to this. I installed the monitor/ recorder in a safe, secure, lockbox. Best thing to do is make sure you have good insurance, plenty of lighting (when you can), and keep a clean job site. let us know what you decide, I've had this same issue before and haven't found the perfect solution.
Great add. Didn't know passive PoE switches existed. definitely makes a strong cost/benefit analysis. In a jam, you can also split one Cat 6 run into two by using these splitters. After the fact, you could also rewire the jack into two jacks utilizing one Cat6 cable.
https://www.amazon.com/Riipoo-Ethernet-Splitter-Cable-Cat5e/dp/B08F1YXMJB
yes, and if you google “indoor” or “residential” stair treads you should see some, too.
I've been looking into this as well. The thing is to get access to the camera you either need to get physical access to it with a micro SD card or a LTE sim card. I've been looking at the below for my project, but haven't pulled the trigger yet.
I am building right now, first time. I am asking many friends for advice, and have also been using this as a general guide: https://www.amazon.ca/Complete-Guide-Contracting-Your-Home/dp/1558708715
It is not an easy process for someone with no experience, as I am finding out. But it is possible.
This book has been pretty good about getting started, and whether to even embark on being your own GC or not.
I think if it is just you, there is no reason to spend the extra money to get a Corp with the extra paperwork involved getting S Corp status. LLCs are easier and cheaper. Both have pass through taxation where profits and losses pass through to you. You really need to read this book.