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The most popular Products mentioned in /r/Ioniq5:
![[Only for J1772 EVs] Lectron - Tesla to J1772 Adapter, Max 40 Amp & 250V - Compatible with Tesla High Powered Connector, Destination Charger, and Mobile Connector Only (White)](https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/31FZxRof9qL._SL500_.jpg)
The most popular Services mentioned in /r/Ioniq5:
The most popular Android Apps mentioned in /r/Ioniq5:
The most popular reviews in /r/Ioniq5:
You might want to check this out. (I have one in my SEL, and it powers my dashcam flawlessly.)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B09RRSC9XF/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I believe this is the stuff some dealers charge multiple hundreds of dollars to install, in the form of a mandatory dealer add-on:
https://www.amazon.com/3M-08582-Door-Edge-Protection/dp/B00650NY6G/
I'll save spectators a click. It's made by 3M and is 8 bucks. Of course, the dealers forcing customers to pay this probably aren't splurging on 3M at the outrageous price of $8 and are buying a knock-off brand in bulk, of course. Maybe $2? So we should probably assume it literally is close to 100% profit.
OP, I had a vehicle that had these installed by the dealer (I was not the original owner) and I never found them useful, but if you put them on for a few bucks and they make you worry less in parking lots then it's cheap peace of mind. I can't imagine the brand matters since they are basically strips of thick tape 🤣
You'll start out OK, but as you drive; you'll warm up the "coolant" circulating next to it. The tub will insulate you some. Not sure how much though.
Try an experiment with a refrigerator thermometer like this in there. I bet you'll be OK but you might freeze the the contents.
just epoxy it. will take you 20 minutes and 20 dollars. if you want to try and color match they make pigment like https://www.amazon.com/MEYSPRING-Royal-Epoxy-Resin-Pigment/dp/B07QD8CS83. it won't be perfect but you won't be able to notice without getting close up and it will be behind the license plate anyway
Congrats! I'm a newish owner in Alberta. Things I've learned:
- Make sure to set the charger as a destination in the navigation so that battery preconditioning kicks on (this assumes you have battery preconditioning already - if not you'll have to wait for the update) Be warned that if you use Android Auto or CarPlay and set any type of navigation in another app, it will cancel the charger destination in the Hyundai navigation and preconditioning will turn off.
- If you hold the Drive Mode button, it engages Snow Mode. This mode engages AWD when needed, disables the heavier regen breaks and smooths out your accelerating to avoid skidding.
- The charge port door can be opened manually if the doors are unlocked. You have to push quite hard on the little bumps that are on the door.
- If you want extra stats, you can buy an OBD dongle such as the OBDLink CX that sends extra stats to your smart phone. (State of Charge, current drawn while charging, etc) You can integrate this dongle with the ABRP app to feed live data to the app.
- Keep the rear defrost on if it's cold out. This helps a little bit with the lack of rear wiper.
- If you find the displays too bright, there is a dark mode in the Setup -> Themes menu.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B09H5LSW5V
Stick the two sticky ends together to make a double sided magnet.
Stick this metal plate to the back of your phone.
I bought these for $16 on Amazon ( AmazonSmile : Readerest Magnetic Eyeglass Holder, Name tag, Badge Holder, Unisex, Made in USA (Stainless Steel) : Eyeglass Repair Kits : Office Products ) They work well, but the glasses move around as the car turns and makes noise. I ended up taking them down and just putting them in the center holder next to my CarPlay box
I don't think you are...
2 days after we took delivery, the 12V system completely drained, to the point we had to "boost it" (Costco portable pak - lifesaver).
It was parked indoors at the tint/wrap place, they had the doors all open and were working on the liftgate (raising and lowing it, over and over).
Funniest was we knew exactly what to do to fix it, but the tint guys were SUPER stressing, first time they'd worked on one, and they thought there was a defect or they broke it. :D
After that event, I bought the 12V BT monitor. But... we've never had an issue since. We did have to take it back to the tint guys for some touch-up work and just told them to "leave it running"... easier to explain than putting it in Utility Mode, and far easier for them.
I feel like the 12V monitoring system is sufficient to keep it toped up. Monitoring the BT system, it shows the system turning on to charge the 12V once the voltage drops below a certain threshold.
Here's the exact monitor I bought, super easy install:
I got vgate. It was on sale for $40s around Amazon day. https://www.amazon.com/vgate-vLinker-Bluetooth-Diagnostic-Android/dp/B088LW211V/ref=pd_lpo_1?pd_rd_w=30F4F&content-id=amzn1.sym.116f529c-aa4d-4763-b2b6-4d614ec7dc00&pf_rd_p=116f529c-aa4d-4763-b2b6-4d614ec7dc00&pf_rd_r=3D1AZ09VB5JKS5EGK...
FWIW, any cup with this design sits very securely.
The cup I made has the same "issue" as the Hyundai freebie.
If you're doing an outdoor driveway installation. I highly recommend having a NEMA 14-50R plug out there. This plug is also used by RVs/Mobile Homes. Having that flexibility may be a good idea!
Also, Not often do outdoor plugs fail, spending a little bit more now on a high quality receptacle means they can withstand multiple years of outdoor use you'll hopefully be good for a decade on the plug at least. Put the plug on a GFCI circuit breaker and you'll have more peace of mind knowing you're at less of a risk to ground faulting. Additionally the nice thing is, you can replace the receptacle if there is any issues in the future. You can add a small preventative lock for extra peace of mind security too.
Speaking of any issues, with a receptacle plug, you can easily unplug and replace the EVSE (Electric Vehicle Supply Equipment) if there is any issues with the actual unit, and you won't need to risk electrical shock due to removing terminating wires.
Yeah it looks slightly worse because you do have an extra box where the plug resides, but the potential upside outweighs it.
Now if you want to save a little bit of $ per foot of cabling you can run a 2 conductor + ground cable instead. and use a NEMA 6-50R receptacle instead. It won't work with RV's but most level 2 chargers should allow 6-50P or 14-50P.
This organizer is not cheap, but I've tried all the other solutions and this is the best solution I've found.
Curbside pickup employees have no problem using it effectively no matter what I'm picking up.
You can buy an 240V adapter, it needs to be plugged into 2 outlets on different circuits out of phase, that would double your charging speed with a NEMA 6-15 plug
https://www.amazon.com/DIY220-Connect-Separate-Circuits-Included/dp/B08R976HYC/
I had been using the cargo net that came with it but it was a bit annoying with certain items. I now have "trunk organizer" with 3 areas to put stuff in and use it most of the time, swapping back to the cargo net when it makes more sense.
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B07921RPFQ - Its a 4/5. Cheap so I didn't expect a ton. Better than expected though it definitely feels cheap compared to some of the materials used in the car. Figure who cares if its in the trunk and it otherwise does the job fine.
For those interested, the exact product I bought doesn't seem to be available anymore but these are very similar if not the same. Can put any color you want and have different lighting patterns as well. Super affordable too. Took 5 seconds to install: just pop off the factor door sills and these are magnetic (have to be careful not to step on them because they will come off, but not too big of a deal).
​
This was probably from a software bug where in some use case scenarios while the car is under a 35% SOC the 12v battery will not get charged. Updating the firmware is said to resolve this. I purchased a 12v booster in case I experience this and to assist others with ICE cars if needed. If you do buy one, put it in the frunk as its much easier to get to in the event the 12v battery is dead.
​
I read good reviews on 70mai Pro plus A500, with front and back camera for $100 on Amazon:
https://www.amazon.com/70mai-Camera-Built-IMX335-Android/dp/B08TBNFG66
Don't buy now though -- they run frequent promotion with $20 discount. Wait for that.
I personally bought one and plan to use it on mine (still waiting!) .
Currently I am using it on my commute car and it performs well. The only concern is it's a fully enclosed body with no ventilation holes. I live in houston so heat might be an issue (or not).
It does run on battery -- but it's not soldered and battery is widely available and easily replaceable.
I bought a pair like this one. $40 each after a discount.
It doesn't have to be large. EVs have small 12V batteries. There is no engine to crank over. I haven't needed it for the EVs, but did start a Honda and a Hybrid Sonata. I don't recommend driving without one.
I bought this:
Phone Holder Mount for Hyundai... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0B6H4YGTS?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
It comes with a magnetic plate that you stick to the back of your phone and it sticks on perfectly. Doesn't move, even with bumpy rides. I also threaded a wire through the hole in the fuse box panel to underneath the steering wheel that goes to plug in directly to the USB port so that I can get directly to Android Auto.
I have a cheap 40amp evse that also does this unless I set the charge rate to the slowest possible (which runs about 27-30amps). The problem is the EVSE is not communicating its capabilities to the car and the car is just requesting more current than it can take.
My dad has a much smarter Shell evse and i can set my car to max and it’ll modulate the charge rate up and down to keep the temps of the evse happy instead of just failing. He went with the Shell charger for his bmw i3 after a grizzl-e failed on his car similarly.
Does anyone have a different 40amp charger that works well?
This is the one that seems to work without issue Shell 40amp
I pressure wash my teal Ioniq and don't really have any issues. Just be sure as always to not pressure wash too close to the paint, as it'll chip off under too much force. I like meguiar's ultimate for use with the pressure washer. For a protectant, I added this instead of waxing it. It has made future washes a breeze, but takes two ish days to apply(and one to polish back down if you overdo it).
We bought these from Amazon. Rear bench and 2 for the front seats. The color is pretty close to the white leather.
I wanted the black interior but they only had grey for me as well.
I bought one of these wireless car charger phone mounts that clips onto the air vents for my old car. It was perfect because it stayed cool with the vent blowing air. Alternately, you could buy a small fan to run off a USB port to blow over the car's wireless charging pad.
I purchased the 2022 Carlinkit AI Box. It allows you to utilize wireless CarPlay/Android Auto. It also has a Android-like interface that allows you to stream apps like Netflix, prime, sunday ticket, etc.
Oh, don't get me wrong.I changed both vanity lights and the trunk light. I think there's a light in the glove box too that can be changed (haven't looked yet).
They are all easy to change with these.
I bought these...
"194 Led Bulbs 31mm DE3175 Led..." https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B09D39NX6Y?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Though I found (my mistake for not actually bothering to check) there were only 2 of the required size for both vanity and boot/trunk so have ordered another batch in that size from the same place...
"31mm DE3175 LED Festoon Bulbs, 3021 DE3022 DE3023 Bulbs White,12V 21SMD 3014 Chipsets for Car Interior Dome Map Trunk Light,1.22 inches 31mm Festoon Bulbs, 4pcs" https://amzn.eu/d/2uyFvUJ
I already had a pry tool for a mobile repair kit and would recommend using something like that instead of a screwdriver.
I'm a big fan of the $50 less Emporia EV charger with its 3-year warranty, Energy Star certification (required for many incentives), included 14-50 pigtail (though it also supports 48A hard-wired installation as well), and doesn't provide Tesla/Musk with revenue!
I second this, just went through this hole process and found a pretty inexpensive setup you may want to consider: - Ryobi 1600 pressure washer ($99 new, I got a return for $60) - Harbor Freight foam cannon ($26, got a coupon to get it for $20) - soap for cannon (I got the Chemical Guys Sticky Snowball, it’s about $13 a bottle or less) - Drying towel ($20-30, I got this one The Rag Company - The Gauntlet Drying Towel - 70/30 Blend Korean Microfiber, Designed to Dry Vehicles Faster, More Thoroughly & More Gently Than Others, 900gsm, 30in x 36in, Ice Grey + Grey https://www.amazon.com/dp/B083KQ8Q1D/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_AX12F6AE8MZR2D3VA4PP?psc=1)
All in, if I wash my car even once a month it’s way under $10 a wash.
BUT, the most important part, this method makes washing the car SUPER fast, I can do the car in about 10-15 minutes flat. I’m the same as you guys, I’m not trying to spend my entire weekend washing the thing, not worth it. But this is the most effortless way I’ve ever washed a car.
I HIGHLY recommend watching this guy on YouTube https://youtube.com/user/detailgreen
Good luck to ya!
Honestly, I have a smattering of spare Fire tablets and I'm thinking of mounting one above the EVSE. Eventually, it would probably integrate with Home Assistant assuming I ever actually build it.
Wall mount: https://smile.amazon.com/Barkan-Tablet-Degree-Rotation-Profile/dp/B000WVXX2E
It’s these, but I can’t claim I did a lot of research. Just bought something on Amazon with reasonable reviews:
Gimars Thickest EPE Cushion Car... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07WGVJBXP?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
I used magnets https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07RZZV18R
There is a bit of metal behind the front and rear wheels. I put them on when needed, remove them and keep in glove box when not. Works OK. So far no issues, and avoids having them on the car when not needed.
Posting in case theres anyone else who couldn't find images on how these fit on our 135/55/R19 wheels. These are the top 2 recommended on amazon.
Anyone have in-snow experience with these? Do they look like they fit well (clearance, too close to rim, etc)? Preference of cable vs chains? Snow tires aren't reasonable coming from SoCal.
Auto-trac - size 232405 - very snug, the expanders are at maximum length, was sort of hard to lock the latches given the chains don't stretch
Super Z6 - size SZ429 - easier to lock the latches given more stretch
Thank you. Would something like this off Amazon also be compatible?
This is a Fakespot Reviews Analysis bot. Fakespot detects fake reviews, fake products and unreliable sellers using AI.
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>Name: VIOFO Dual Dash Cam, 2K 1440P 60fps 1080P 30fps Front and Rear Dash Camera with Wi-Fi GPS, Buffered Parking Mode, Emergency Recording, Super Capacitor, Motion Detection (A129 Plus Duo)
>Company: Visit the VIOFO Store
>Amazon Product Rating: 4.4
>Fakespot Reviews Grade: B
>Adjusted Fakespot Rating: 4.4
>Analysis Performed at: 09-26-2022
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Fakespot analyzes the reviews authenticity and not the product quality using AI. We look for real reviews that mention product issues such as counterfeits, defects, and bad return policies that fake reviews try to hide from consumers.
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These are the ones I got. Nice thick metal frames where the plate sits recessed into the frame (vs. the frame on top of the plate).
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00032K3TS?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details
Dealer already drilled holes in the front of mine, so I took off their dealer advertisement and used these plain rubber ones. I like them, prevents the license plate from coming in contact with the car and scratching it:
Did you mean this one? Your link is "404 page not found".
I'm getting these, love that they glow in the dark. And they're going to match the Morse Code emblem I'm going to replace the Hyundai logo with:
The Ioniq Guy on You Tube compared products and he says this is better than Rain X:
The simplest explanation is the model Y doesn't have it and Hyundai was looking at the competition when they decided on their design requirements. But the model Y has a bunch more cameras, including a rear camera, that auto-activate when you enable the turn signals or go into reverse or simply push a button to display them.
The limited trim has some of these cameras. And for the 2023 Limited hyundai added a digital rear view mirror and I think another camera for it.
You can simply add this yourself aftermarket. https://www.amazon.com/WOLFBOX-Rear-View-Mirror-Camera/dp/B0B1B41WC9?th=1
Probably not as good as the limited 2023's solution but better than no camera.
I just recently installed the Autel Maxicharger at home and I'm quite happy with it. It's got good reviews and comes in at ~ $200 cheaper than EA / Chargepoint. I had lined up the EA Charger and ended up sending it back in favor of the Autel. It's only been a few days but we'll see how it goes.
https://www.amazon.com/Autel-MaxiCharger-Electric-Bluetooth-Cable%EF%BC%8814-50/dp/B0B3RLFF2D/
If your dead set on starting it first. Get a seatbelt extender to fool the system. But you should put it on first.
https://www.amazon.com/Original-Buckle-Extender-Seat-Extension/dp/B09TKZ8C62/ref=mp_s_a_1_6?
For loose items in the trunk, I got a Greenmade Instacrate. I collapse or whenever I don't need it.
For up front, one suggestion: I purchased a small trash container that secondarily doubles as a soft barrier up front. The one I purchased straps to the center console.
EPAuto Waterproof Car Trash Can... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07HYJ2YHN
There's a Shell-branded EVSE that has an NEMA 14-50 to 5-15 adapter to let you plug it into a regular 120V outlet.
I know the AAwireless dongle works fine on my Ioniq5. I think the Motorola one works the same way.
It looks like a nice 'smart' charger. If anyone needs a dumb model. I recommend the Grizzle-E
https://www.amazon.com/Grizzl-Level-EV-Charger-GR1-06-24-Premium/dp/B0843K8Z9K?ref\_=ast\_sto\_dp&th=1&psc=1
I have a 4 inch memory foam folding twin mattress, it’s comfortable and it fits between the wheel wells nicely. but for 2 people, one of whom is 6’5”, you’ll probably want to go bigger. My fiancé and I tried it once and it was pretty cramped and I’m 6’0”.
That said, while a full mattress would barely fit inside the car resting above the wheel wells, it really doesn’t give you much space to work with.
I think the best solution is going to involve cutting portions of a full size mattress out so that it will fit snugly between the wheel wells… let me know if you go this route as I’ve been trying to decide what to do
I went with this one: https://www.amazon.com/OBDLink-Bimmercode-Bluetooth-Adapter-Diagnostic/dp/B08NFLL3NT
A bit more pricey, but it works like an absolute charm, and is one of the ones ABRP calls out explicitly if I'm not mistaken.
Not true at all. Mine (CO purchased) didn't have any front plate. I also didn't drill it. I used the tow hook to fit a kit that holds the plate right off the bumper (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B077SP8TB1/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1). It may not be the most aerodynamic thing to do, but I couldn't bare to drill holes in the bumper
I would love to share this item. The unit was sold by Ottocast and shipped by Amazon. I bought it for $79 a month ago,
link: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B09Q59XY7Y
This very small unit EASILY converts it to wireless Carplay so I can use my iphone. I no longer have to have a cord connected from the center console to my phone to enjoy Carpaly. So far I’m very happy with this purchase. I tried an adapter called car2air many months ago and it just didn’t work. This one is very small comes with both types of USB cable and just works out if the box.
For setup, quite easy, as the instruction said, plug it into the car, go to your phone Bluetooth setup and connect to Ottocast unit. Once paired, it will ask on the phone screen if you want to use Carplay (iPhone), select "Yes" and it will disconnected from Bluetooth and use WiFi to connect. If you already have the CarPlay option in your vehicle this product allows you to use it wirelessly.
It does not, but I was looking at getting this: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07HKLCXPJ/ref=ox_sc_saved_title_9?smid=A3L9663CMWRIQ2&psc=1
I was also going to get a few adapters for 14-30P, 6-50P, and L14-30P to 14-50R.
You should probably ask the campsite, I've read many comments on PlugShare and YouTube and lots of campgrounds forbid EV charging.
I got this kit to use the tow hook and avoid drilling into the bumper, and it fit perfectly. I recommend getting some epoxy or threadlocker to ensure the plate doesn’t unscrew itself.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B077SP8TB1?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details
The "level 1" charger that came with mine is actually capable of using 240V, but it is not labeled that way and has a NEMA 5-15 plug on the end. Adaptors exist for about $30 that have a NEMA-14-50p on one end and a NEMA5-15r on the other at 240V. I will NOT link to one because I think these adaptors are extremely dangerous, not with the EVSE, but with almost anything else someone could plug into it. If you go this route, PLEASE put some crazy warning sticker on the adaptor and double check your model number by googling it.
I got the shell recharge 32 amp (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08ZJ6ZSRQ), it works great and can be easily adjusted to whatever current I need. UL listed.
Where are you located? Try this link.
Due to the texture of the plastic, any solution would have to be permanent.
For right now, carry a charged 12v jumpstart pak like this in your frunk to "wake up" your car.
Short term, don't let your traction battery get below ~30% for long enough to drain your battery.
Slightly longer time frame, see if you have anything like a dashcam or wireless phone projection dongle that's draining your 12v.
Long term, pray that Hyundai really does fix it with an OTA update.
I suspect that all the inexpensive Chinese branded jumpstarters are about the same. They even all look about the same.
Most folks don't use them frequently enough to really get a feel for how reliable they actually are. I figured the YouTubers that jump cars more often might give a better endorsement, but most them probably are either sponsored or comped. I picked up a Tacklife that one of my favorite YouTuber reccomended and they don't seem to be sold on Amazon anymore ¯_(ツ)_/¯
This one is cheap right now and is probably over spec'ed for our use case.
I'm using this one. I like this style because it's easy to put in and take down quickly.
The ones I had for my Kia Niros fit a little better than this one for the Ioniq5. I covers the size and shape of the glass exactly but has a little extra gap to the left of the mirror. I'm probably going to mount my dashcam there.
I've used the Kinder Fluff windshield sunshades in my last few cars and like them because they twist easily into a much smaller circle that I can easily wedge between the inside back of the passenger seat and the console. When folded it takes up very little space unlike the folding reflector types. Additionally, its one piece which makes it easier to deploy and takedown. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073HBKS4W?psc=1&ref=ppx\_yo2ov\_dt\_b\_product\_details
Any updates on in-channel rain guards for the Ioniq 5? I found these on Amazon but really didn't want to do stick on's
I didn't need all the bells and whistles so I settled on the Emporia. I paid $399 at the time on Amazon. I had an electrician install a 60 amp breaker and then hard-wire the charger. I get a 48 amp charge. He said the 50 amp breaker could only get me 40 amps. I'm charging at 11.5kW. All this and a 24 ft. cord. Works better than I imagined. (Star, Ioninq 5 SEL, RWD)
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09BP1GM76?psc=1&ref=ppx\_yo2ov\_dt\_b\_product\_details
See if you can update your firmware, I thought this was fixed in the latest patch. (v008)
This issue can happen when a car rests below 35% and doesn't trigger the 12v to get charged when needed. A fix would be to store a battery jumper and put it in the frunk. https://www.amazon.com/NOCO-GB40-UltraSafe-Lithium-Starter/dp/B015TKUPIC/ref=sr_1_4?crid=1YBIDF2DXU1AG&keywords=12v+jump&qid=1659105785&sprefix=12v+jump%2Caps%2C142&sr=8-4 (you can get a smaller one, I purchased an even larger one than this to jump other people cars if needed)
> Fob amplifying (a different non-teenager exploit) however, is a thing and not just for Kia/Hyundai.
At least this can be mitigated by keeping your keys in a Faraday box similar to this at home.
SOH(state of health) is available with an OBD scanner and an app for your phone..
I use carscanner for iPhone, and this:
There’s one with a power on button that’s even better, but be sure it fits iPhone if that’s your phone.
My SOH is still 100% after charging plenty DC and up to 100%
Just to clarify, I tapped into the *fuse* for the seats and not the seats themselves, using fuse tap you can buy on Amazon: https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B081SS7ZLF?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details
At least on the EV6, cabling was really straight forward. The fuse box is located below the steering column. I installed the front camera right below the housing that holds the built in camera. The cover for the built in front camera pops off pretty easy, so I routed the wires through there, through the headliner to the top of drivers side door. Then I took the rubber weather seal out (comes out really easy, almost as if they planned for this kind of use case), and tucked the wires behind it which brings it right down to the fuse box.
The rear camera was kind of a pain, because this car has a hatch in the back. I ran the rear camera wire from the front camera through the headliner through the side weather proofing seals to the back till I hit my bottle neck. The rear camera needs to be placed on the hatch itself, which leaves a little bit of gap between the back of the car when opened. I eventually figured out a solution where a tiny amount of extra wire hangs off the back to allow for the hatch to open without pulling the cable.
Overall, this process was really straightforward compared to other cars. I am still trying to figure out a proper solution to run the wire through the built in rubber channels that house other wires, but for now I am very happy with how it turned out. I am thinking about making a video about the install soon.
This is the one I have. The software is a bit messy out of the box but I was able to contact the seller on amazon and get the software updated to the May 2022 version (it ships with September 2021) and that makes it pretty good. It no longer steals focus from the in-built unit too much. Carplay/AA works well wirelessly. I haven't had much of a chance to test the video streaming stuff, but I did a couple of quick tests with the built in youtube app and that worked well. Smooth video on the display and clear audio from the car speakers.
I used these
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B0142WSPA8
Picked up the tip from TheIoniqGuy's youtube channel. Was pretty easy. If you figure out how/if its possible to change the glove compartment one, let me know.
I started looking into this myself and looks like this would accomplish the bridging of the two hots: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B074PWJVWC/ref=ox\_sc\_saved\_title\_1?smid=A3DS44SIO06CTJ&psc=1
Using these from Amazon - don't smell, good fit (in the photo they are still slightly bent from shipping, they have relaxed a bit since) - only fit SE/fixed console.
I bought this and put them on the lowest corners of the bumper. Thought they would bother me but you forget about it. At least I know they can come off nicely. EV WRAPS California HOV Stickers... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09Q6L3QX5?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
I have this dongle in my HI5 AWD Limited. I'm using it with an old Motorola Moto X4 android phone and a dashcam app (Droid Dashcam). I find it doesn't seem to give my phone enough power to charge it, just to maintain it when the car is on. Maybe it doesn't provide enough power to adequately charge a smartphone or I just got a dud. When the phone is plugged in the charge indicator does come on so it's working just maybe not enough power for this application (with a phone).
I rigged up a holder for the phone next to my review mirror with this holder. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07Y5KLL6G?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share.
Note, I took it apart so you can slide two of the "clamps" between the roof and ceiling material. I also applied two sided tape (padded) to the hinge area that touches the glass. It works great.
Amazon sells a USB adapter that goes into the rear view mirror and it includes shorter wires. install takes less then 5 min and you don’t have to route wires Dongar Technologies Dash Cam... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09RRSC9XF?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
I made sure the dealer I bought from didn't touch the car. No front plate (they were in MD, but I'm from FL and we don't use them), no badging. They did put the temporary tag on with their frame, but I took it off when I put my FL plate back on with this.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004RH33RE?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details
When I ordered it last week it was only $27. Lights on each end, 12 gauge wiring, made in USA. The 50 ft cable easily fits in the frunk along with the Hyundai charger and a battery jump starter.
This adapter or something similar should work in the fuse box without compromising any hardware https://www.amazon.com/Hardwire-Dashcam-Plozoe-Installation-Tool%EF%BC%8811-5ft%EF%BC%89/dp/B07FXJD8W1/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?crid=34SF689G0EX19&keywords=fuse+box+dash+cam&qid=1657071346&sprefix=fuse+box+dashcam+%2Caps%2C67&sr=8-3
Dongar adapter just got re-stocked so I ordered last Friday. Also ordered this on Amazon - Viofo A119 V3 - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07SRQH4R7?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details something cheap as I need basic coverage. I had the V2 on my previous 2019 Honda Insight and it worked well. Just make sure to get a decent MicroSD card.
This will be a question for the manufacturer. Unless their app has some type of API that can be used with something like IFTTT, then it's not likely possible. You could use IFTTT to set up a notification to remind you to unlock the charger once you get home, but that's the best you can do for now.
For battery charging and conditioning I use this.
They have a jump starter also.
This is the same as the one I carry around. I've jumped an ICE with it with no problem, but I haven't had to use it on my EV yet. It has a good "standby" capacity.
It was the best price/performance one available when I bought it, but there are lots more available now. There are several "no name" versions of it. Just look at the total number of amps as well as the amp hours. I'd think amps is more important for our use case.
. Thanks I did a search and someone suggested an extension of the charger not the outlet end. Here’s a link to what they suggest. https://smile.amazon.com/BESENERGY-Extension-220V-240V-Compatible-Chargers¡%C2%AD/dp/B07STYXDFC/
But this option is only 25 feet long. I need another 75 feet. Would it be safe to get a 75 foot heavy duty extension cord and then plug it into this extender?
>https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00AC7VJCO/ref=cm\_sw\_r\_cp\_apip\_5tsQR28Rjulyh
Hmm....I searched for "camera" and "speed" and didn't see anything relating to the warnings prompts. "Camera" only gave info on "alert distance" which as far as I could tell just changed *when* you were alerted.
2022 Carlinkit AI Box 4G Cellular... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09GVMFV2Q?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Get this and you can watch Netflix and Disney + or whatever android apps while charging or play for the kiddos while driving
Perhaps the wrong wording but something like this perhaps?
Diono: https://www.amazon.com/Diono-40508-Seat-Guard-Complete/dp/B00XJBJ756
I am exchanging it, because unfortunately the strap at the back broke on mine. Outside of that the protector itself is nice, no weird patterns on the bottom that might be etched on the seat.
YES.
Technically, the charger is inside the car. The Electrify America "charger" is just supplying electricity to the charger under the hood, under the control of the charger, which decides how much power to ask for.
So, YES, you have everything you need to go directly onto a roadtrip, apart from installing the A Better Route Planner app on your phone.
Same thing for the Level 1 charger that comes with the car: it's just supplying 120V.
Same thing for the Level 2 (220V 7kW) charger in the parking lot of your hotel (possibly). Just plug it in to the charging port.
For Level 2 charging at home, you need what's technically called a Electric Vehicle Supply Equipment (EVSE) device. This is the thing that plugs into the 240V outlet in your garage / driveway, and responds to instructions from your charger to switch on and off the juice. Like this Grizzl E:
https://www.amazon.com/Grizzl-Level-EV-Charger-GR1-14-24-Premium/dp/B082LMVSLY
But again, the charger is inside the car. You just need the electricity.
A Better Route Planner is the app for planning road trips. It optimizes charging stops based on trip duration, preferred networks (Electrify America in our case), includes weather, updates itself based on your real performance, etc.
You may also want an OBD2 reader to get real-time battery info into your phone and therefore into A Better Route Planner. This one is good and decently priced: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073XKQQQW?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details
Other than that... Nah, you'll be fine. Have fun. Your initial range anxiety will keep you out of battery trouble until you get the hang of things.
I believe it will work with 240V, but you would need an adapter like this: https://www.amazon.com/Chrysler-EVDOUBLER-Electric-Charger-Separate/dp/B07JJPN1L5?th=1
Some more info: https://evdoctor4earth1.weebly.com/
It has a different purpose. You use the sealant leaving the nail in the tire. It is a tire inflator with sealant.
I purchased a plug kit. You want needlenose pliers to remove nails. A reamer to make the hole the right size for a plug. A lubricant and tire plugs.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07MR5FX8M/
This isn't a permanent fix, it is great insurance to potentially get you off the side of the road and into the tire shop. The repair should be patched on the inside at a tire shop in order for it to be a safe, permanent repair.
Camping with a dog like we do, makes a roof tent impossible. I’m not so sure about warranty/insurance either if you break something.
I have this one, the drawback is the extra space needed, the upside is easy access to cars a/c and interior for storage, cooking etc.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B08VN618BM?ref_=cm_sw_r_cp_ud_dp_2KQBZG25WSAP7JWJAW18
I've seen one on amazon for the outside, the insides sounds like a pain the the ass with the middle mirror and module.
See this one below, but second look they are squeegying on the inside as well.
You might try this plastic polishing kit. It's basically "rubbing compound".
My AutoHeatshield is the same way. I think Hyundai gave some bad dimensions to the OEMs (or else Covercraft makes both of them).