What are /r/LocationSound's favorite Products & Services?

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These are great and can power a wireless receiver as well: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B016BJCRUO I use a DC to hirose cable.

I keep Eneloops in the AA compartment as backup and for hotswapping.

Do you have any power tools? I've also used cordless power tool batteries with an adapter. Cheap and lasts all day.

I'm largely self-taught, but I've been at the audio-engineering thing for fifteen years or so. Been working in production sound for a couple years now (it was all music production and sound design before that)

So while some of our film-related skillsets might be on par, I could probably offer some advice on the whole "being a professional sound person" kind of thing. If you're up for it, check out this thing I did from last year. If you don't hate the sound of my voice, I'd be happy to meet for lunch or something sometime (I'm in LA as well). You could pick my brain on the whole 'working with sound for a living' thing, and I could get some insight into what a Film School teaches it's sound guys.

If you're up for it, PM me and I'll toss you my phone number.

This XLR lav is going to work fine with your Zoom F6 since it has phantom power.

Dynamic lavs are considerably larger and heavier and have low output level. I would not use one unless phantom power is not available.

If comteks are way out of your range, I've used a Sennheiser G3 connected to a headphone preamp in video village. Worked great for a few gigs, but it means the headphones are tethered to video village. This happened to work well at the time because it cost me $20 to rent a G3 and the clients and scripty where also at video village.

Here's the headphone preamp I used. Pyle-Pro PHA40 4-Channel Stereo Headphone Amplifier https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003M8NVFS/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_VIAqub0AH284G

Audacity is free and pretty powerful, EQ , Comp, Noise reduction. Looking at your files in a DAW (digital audio workstation) is a great way to see where you can improve.

Can you find the G4 512 used? When compared to the 112: it comes with a better mic than the B3 (that is larger, but cuts well with Sennheiser booms), better build quality, headphone port and stronger transmitter.

SWIT battery is totally overpriced for its level of output and I would never buy batteries used. I'm not sure if it would work with your BDS, but if you only need D-Tap, this brand has been getting great reviews on Amazon and forums. Excellent value, I have 4 in various sizes: https://www.amazon.com/6600mAh-Compatible-Camcorder-Broadcast-Replacement/dp/B07TQM6T22 They come with chargers, you can use the battery savings for the better wireless.

Edit: Other items look very good.

This is a challenging project but also a fun one I bet!

Little FM Transmitters like this provide amazingly good quality if you feed them from a headphone splitter. You'll need to do some testing to get the levels right out of the 664. Also remember that US FM stations are on odd Mhz channels + 0.5... for example 91.1 91.3, 91.5. Car radios know this. You would probably want an antenna outside the car, probably a 6-to 8'' or so wire hanging out the window. (These are of questionable legality but are being used for outdoor church services everywhere.) This should give good reception for cars up to 100' or so away but it does depend on pretty good control of the incoming audio levels--meaning there should be an audio person in the car.

If you're only trying to hear the lines they are being spoken, I'd velcro an iPhone (in a case) to the headliner and do that with a simple conference call. In 2021, it's the best intercom system known to man.

Hope these ideas are helpful! Stay safe.

The best (and often only) way to improve your sound on no budget is to move your existing microphone closer to the source. There's no cheap way to get good audio from mics that are 10-15 feet away from the audio source.

Can you put the snowball on the boom closer to everybody? You say you're thinking about a shotgun on a stand, so it sounds like everyone is stationary. A usb extender would let you get it closer to everyone.

A shotgun might pick up everyone equally at 10-15 feet, but it isn't going to sound much better than the Snowball. If you can set it up closer, it isn't going to be good for 5 people because it's very directional, so it'll pick up one person fine and the rest will sound wrong. The Snowball Ice is directional, but has a wider pickup than a shotgun so it might work ok.

It sounds like you're doing some kind of talk show? You could get a non-Ice Snowball and set it between everyone, kind of like Rhett and Link do with their much nicer mic (A Moue by Blue).

Here are two other options that might work, but are probably bad ideas.

You could get cheap lavs on Amazon for everyone and run them into everybody's phones, though that's prone to user error.

You could get a bunch of cheap lavs and 1/4 inch adapters and find a cheap mixer like this and run that into your computer.

Here's an inexpensive solution.

I use this...

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00YEEDJF6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_8zOKBbDVBVC8Y

And this...

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071R2S6SB/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_QAOKBbTXRCVJM

With a C-Stand. No problems whatsoever.

If you are wanting MixPre6 AND a laptop/phone look at Deity. Deity W.Lav Lavalier Microphone with DA4 Microdot Adapter Compatible with Shure UC1,BLX1,FP1,GLXD1,PG1,PGX1,QLXD1,SLX1,ULX1,UXLD1,UR1,UR1M and Axient System AD1 ADX1 AXT100 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07XNZ3FQB/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_21Q3D43QGA5HKPWR2V82

If you want a high end mic for your mix pre with can grow, then get a DPA, Sanken, Countryman, Shure TwinFlex or similar.

Try and see if this works, if you have an Android phone: https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.AaronBernstein.ltctimecodegenerator&hl=en_AU&gl=US. It works quite nicely with my BMPCC4K and Zoom F6.

Neither -- it's this one (comes in small, medium, and large). That one has the deepest insertion and deepest isolation.

As far as fatigue -- it is definitely cognitive, not physiological. I think the key is monitoring at lower levels. I'm not saying don't take breaks; you should take breaks regardless. But it's important to monitor at the lowest level that still allows you to hear the detail you need.

Two Tascam DR-10L’s for this and sync in post. All day long.

Tascam DR-10L Portable Digital Audio Recorder with Lavalier Microphone https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LZ7UN44/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_api_glt_i_NH8FBQA6J8NY7HSSWT4W

FYI, balanced devices don't need shielding, so 3 conductors with no shielding makes perfect sense (and you destroyed a working cable). The nature of a balanced signal already provides passive noise cancelation because, in theory, both the [+] (non-phase inverted) and [-] (phase inverted) pickup the same amount of noise across the cable, then the receiving device flips the phase of the [-] signal and whatever noise was picked up on both signals is now gone through the magic of phase cancelation.

I think the issues might be that you're dealing with microphone levels and thinking they're balanced line levels. The output of the Deity is a TRRS (yup, an extra ring), which is typically used to interface with a smart phone. There are also two different standards for TRRS signals; CTIA (left, right, ground, mic) and OMTP (left, right, mic, ground), with CTIA now being more widely used. I think that might be part of the problem, but I don't know why it would be worse indoors or outdoors. I think you may need an adapter cable like this.

I think there might also be something to the rechargeable battery in the mic creating noise, but I think the cable is more likely. Also, if the camera has an option for "plug-in power", try turning it off.

I am very interested in this mystery!

Personally I'd just grab the Fethead made for condenser mics: https://www.amazon.com/TRITON-FetHead-Phantom-Microphone-Preamp/dp/B06XDFXM8Z/ref=psdc_11974581_t1_B06XDPTDN5

Give you around 18db or so of clean power so it will help with the noisy preamps (when you have to go to higher gain) of your H4n.

for the monitoring part of the problem, you can use a small cheap FM transmitter($8 on Amazon), and then if you're in the follow car you can turn on the FM radio so everyone in the car can hear, or you can buy a cheap handheld FM Receiver to listen to the mix. this will only work in close proximity to the car though. alternatively, you can use comteks/other IFB system if you got it.

Lol just make sure to ask for the L&D forms in advance.

As for actual solutions, I'd say just buy some right angle jumpers on Amazon. Gaff tape the right angle side down securely onto the Tx, and then heat shrink tube around where the lav cable meets the jumper.

Either of the links below would work. Get a 4 pole so you can use them on your phone afterwards lol. Just make sure to use a jumper and NOT an adapter so you don't just add leverage to the stressors on the connector.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01CZNLTJA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_KueAAbS78352T

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B017PT8XRK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_LveAAbQY1469Z

> I'm down in Christchurch. Wait a second, now that I noticed it your username also has a website and has gear reviews right? I was searching on Google for some gear followed by "nz" and came across a few, they're really helpful, so double thanks!

Also have a YouTube channel too ("Sound Speed!"), which is where I mostly output stuff now rather than my blog.

> Oh and now that I double checked. It's not allowing me to buy the Tascam from b&h, my bad. It says "shipping restriction: no shipping to New Zealand"

No problem!

Use YouShop

> I wanted to buy from b&h but also found this on Amazon. https://www.amazon.com/DR-10X-Movo-HM-M2-Omnidirectional-Presentation/dp/B07GDV6KJG/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1548919303&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=tascam+dr-10x&psc=1 and wondered if it might be a good candidate instead (the mic, I'm meaning), if not, I'll just buy the Tascam from Amazon.

I dunno.... you're dropping in price from an already dirt cheap mic to one that is half that price??

> Either way, does b&h offer fast shipping? I'm assuming you've bought from them before.

Yup, I purchase a hell of a lot of from B&H! ;-)

Earwigs would be absolutely ideal, but sadly the production (an indie short) is overbudget and can't cough up the ~$250/day to compensate me for the rental of a basestation and an earpiece.

A portable battery with AC is an excellent idea! Fairly sure Electric had you use something like this, which I'm all but certain this barebones outfit won't have, but I'll check. I might buy a cheapo Amazon battery and see if that will last, as the scenes requiring car playback will be short.

A wired lavalier can be closer. I bought one of these and found it to be as good as the Rode equivalent on direct comparison. Just a thought.

This is the cheapest/easiest way:

Telephone Pick-up Coil with Suction Cup, Features: Record Telephone Conversations on Any Tape Recorder with a 3.5 mm Microphone https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0034I75IK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_-RelFb2JJX7J8

The audio quality will not be fantastic but will be clear enough to easily make out what is being said. An even cheaper way is to simply wire an inductor to a 3.5mm or 1/4in cable and tape it to the phone.

Another vote for TalentCell batteries, except I use a slightly different model: TalentCell Rechargeable 12V 6000mAH/5V 12000mAh

I have two in my kit, one to use and one for backup, but they have been rock solid for me. I've never once had to switch out the battery pack for my second one, even on 14+ hour days with the recorder (I use a Zoom F4, so the F8n might suck a little more juice in your case) on the entire day, even through lunch.

Hard to beat for the price, I just use a hirose-to-DV power cable I bought on Amazon to connect it.

For ear training, I know most of us come from a musical background. I would recommend listening critically to lots of different songs by different artists in different genres. How are the drums mixed differently? What instruments are in the high end? What's populating the low end? What's emphasized in the mids? How are these different mixes accomplishing different things?

Another good resource is to use an ear training app. Something like this is pretty good. https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.saninnsalas.audiotraining

Garfield Headphone Softie Earpad Cover (Black) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B076L3FV1X/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_I9iPBb64G0RP9

They slip over the earpad and keep it from degrading or being pulled off. They don't seal as well, so you have a little more ambient leakage, but the benefits along with the added comfort more than compensate.

There are some cheap knockoffs that might work better now, they will probably break quickly, but should have better acoustics:

https://smile.amazon.com/Marantz-Professional-ZP-1-Blimp-Style-Microphone/dp/B01N3PFEMB/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1536460141&sr=8-4&keywords=MICROPHONE+BLIMP

Anyone use a RF spectrum analyser in the field to look for gaps/interfernce sources?

First DDG search found these, hardware (26$) and android software

https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.mantz_it.rfanalyzer&hl=en

and

https://www.rtl-sdr.com/buy-rtl-sdr-dvb-t-dongles/

Are you sure about this? Even though the Voltcraft brand seem to have stopped selling I did find images, like here: https://www.amazon.se/VOLTCRAFT-IPC-8-Batteriladdare-LiIon-LiFePO/dp/B07RT51ZWM

Here the Voltcraft IPC-8 is micro USB.

I use this:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09GVBY226?pd_rd_i=B088TLCXNP&pf_rd_p=b000e0a0-9e93-480f-bf78-a83c8136dfcb&pf_rd_r=HB38EWBTQNZMV0X8Q9A2&pd_rd_wg=Y6eGL&pd_rd_w=2tqcf&pd_rd_r=5d50d5ce-b149-461e-87ed-59f6fa329d4f&th=1

You could also check this 8-slot BC8 charger: https://www.amazon.com/XTAR-Battery-Charger-Rechargeable-Batteries/dp/B09SD7JY26

Actually, I didn't explain myself very well. I use this carbon fiber fishing rod that comes with no fittings. It extends to 24 ft, though I usually assemble it for about 12 ft. The point is pole collapses into a very small package, weighs only a few ounces, and can support a lav mic and lightweight cable. It could not support any XLR mic just because of the weight of cable and connectors.

For Wireless on the H6 and static inteview sessions. or situations whre the talent is not much more than 25-30 feet from the camera/receiver.
I can recommend the Rode Wireless Go 2 kit ($330) as a budget alternative.pair it with the Lavalier GO ( $80 ea. EQ in post) or the Deity W.Lav Pro (~$140-$160 ea.) for a very decent sound quality right out of the box. to make it work more versatile with the H6 or any other filed mixer/recorder, I suggets buying a 3.5mm TRS to 2 XLR splitter ( https://www.amazon.ca/NANYI-splitter-Interconnect-Microphone-Splitter/dp/B07H2VNB2D ) that sends the stereo signal to 2 seperate inputs on the H6 instead of using that awful 3.5mm input on the XY cartridge.
This would be the lowest cost option for 2 versatile wireless channels at ~$500-$650 Canadian Pesos. The Rode has the benefit of being able to record on the transmitters, shoudl the connetion to the receiver have interference/drop outs.

Another option could be the Deity Connect Deluxe Kit at around $1000 for 2 channels with more versatility and probably better reliability than the Rode.

Or lastly when you want to stay with UHF Frequency range the Sony UWP-D27 kit at $1600 for 2 channels, which is not much less than the Sennheiser G4's at ~$1750 but are higher regarded/rated in quality and reliability than the Sennheiser.

I totally forgot about those. I've helped a friend with Sennheiser's karaoke setup (handheld mic).

They make them with lavs as well. I'm not too familiar with the lineup, but last I checked there was a cheaper line below the quality/features of the G4 and one above. Like either $300 or $700.

Obviously not nearly as versatile as a G4 with AC port, but it could work.

https://www.amazon.com/Sennheiser-XSW-Wireless-Presentation-Microphone/dp/B01MR4YUTG

No phantom power needed--turn it off. If you are coming out of a standard line-level output you may need an attenuator. Better test first!

Separate the mics from the recorder and it's quite easy, you can even keep using your Zoom (which has mediocre preamps, you should probably upgrade).

There are dozens of options, but this covers XLR mics and lavs and uses a UHF spectrum: https://www.amazon.com/Sony-Wireless-Microphone-UWP-D26-14/dp/B07X37B3DF/

O.k. so first...get the external recorder (H1N is fine).

If you don't your audio will suck.

Second, get a mic stand. Here's a good one, but it's now pretty expensive and there are others that do the same thing.

>What would be the most cost efficient way to record sound? If I get a Zoom H1n, where can I place it? What I really want to do is have a friend hold a boom mic just above the frame, and this might be dumb question, but how do I actually record the audio?

Avoid a person holding the boom - go for the mic stand.

I tried a human boom operator...skip it. Just get a stand and get as close as you can to the actors.

Definitely record scratch audio.

Learn how to edit external audio (Audacity) and then sync in post.

What others have said - don't use bluetooth.

Personally I'd avoid lav mics as well, but that's just personal preference.

What I would highly suggest is using a dedicated external recorder (H1N is the inexpensive one) and sync the external audio and the scratch audio in post (after noise removal and boosting the levels).

Having really good audio is key - if your sound sucks, your film will too.

Since you're a one man band I'd also think about getting a mic stand so you don't need a boom operator. I got this one when it was $30, but there are others that are also that inexpensive.

> DPA 4017B

O.k. well...you're way out of my league in terms of cost...so go for something made of...I have no idea - kryptonite?

I also (again I'm a one man band and not a pro) went with a simple solution to not have a boom operator.

I went with an On-Stage MS7701TB Telescoping Microphone Boom Stand

I tried a boom operator, but having another person on set, and the fact that he kept letting the mic dip into frame...

I just wanted to keep it simple.

On the shock mount - go nuts, but I would consider anyway you can not have a boom operator. The mic you have to is good enough...it seems as though it wouldn't be a problem.

I basically went as cheap as possible and it was just fine.

Campro SM3 Low Profile Microphone ShockMount

I used it with a NTG2 and it was absolutely fine.

I have no idea why you would spend $75 on a shock mount.

I understand that, but I'd rather pay $20 for essentially the same item. I'll upgrade my bag/harness when I upgrade my mixer. For now, the MixPre-6 is light enough to manage exceptionally well with the golf bag harness.

Yep, you need a 3.5mm jack to 2x male xlr y cable like this. Then go into 2x inputs on the F8n to record them seperately.

This is the TalentCell to get. Everyone I know gets that one, you are the first person I've heard using the smaller ones for a Zoom.

Of course, also make sure you're using it with Hirose, not the DC plug port.

Keep in mind, the USB port on the one I linked is trash. It has a dirty voltage regulator and creates noise in the chain. DC ports are quiet.

https://www.amazon.com/MAXOAK-Generator-Portable-Emergency-Sinewave/dp/B07PMBSWQH/ref=sr\_1\_17\_sspa?gclid=Cj0KCQjw3eeXBhD7ARIsAHjssr9hPdK9prdRvT\_dvc\_1BdM7iTCFqw9EyF9ewSSHsRdLq7py1JUgCCEaAt1xEALw\_wcB&hvadid=557364250264&hvdev=c&hvl...

The L8 can run on almost any 5-volt USB battery pack, like THIS.

I have an F8n and use a phone charging powerbank with a 5-12v converter hirose to usb cable. This kind of cable. Currrently using this 30,000 mAH powerbank which usually lasts for 2.5 days. I've used other smaller ones with no problems.

I also have rechargeable AA batteries (from Ikea) in the battery compartment.

My mate has an F8 and it was him who told me about the above solution to powering the unit. He uses a similar cable with a powerbank.

Thanks for your detailed explanation! So if I purchase a 1/4 tp 1/4 cable (like this), set Zoom H4N Pro mode as "Stereo", Line 1/2 link "ON" and plug it into one of the combo mic jacks on H4N, I should be ready to go? Does it matter if the 1/4 should be stereo or mono?

PS: This is for comedy show recording so the only audio matter is the human voice.

On Amazon there is a brand called World’s Best Cable that sells 6 inch canare quad cable with neutrik connectors.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0995H2VX9/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I do the same - power over usb-c for just the mixpre 6.

I use an Anker PowerCore+ 26800 PD (with another as a backup just in case), which gave me 20 hours of recording while providing phantom to one mic.

Velcroed it to the bottom interior of my bag, and it's nicely out of the way.

A professional bag want really allow for monitoring the H4n. I bought this tactical waist bag from amazon and it fit the H4n perfectly. I'd recommend the black version obviously. https://www.amazon.com/ArcEnCiel-Resistant-Tactical-Military-Climbing/dp/B00ZHQ22GC/ref=sr_1_7?crid=3VH17490JKWR7&keywords=tactical+waist+bag&qid=1654895593&sprefix=tactical+wai%2Caps%2C184&sr=8-7

You can fit the H4 under loops at the top. I didn't use the G3 receiver but a similar sized one fit into the side pockets. This bag will not work once you upgrade to a better recorder but then you will still have a decent fanny pack for 20 dollars. There are many brands selling the same bag.

This sub is mostly for people doing location sound for movies and television, so you'll get suggestions for wireless microphones and in-ear wireless montitoring systems, but I'd like to suggest a simpler approach: your phone. Make a call to your student and both use headsets. In the Apple world, the EarPods that come with the iPhone stay in the ears pretty well when moving around and are plenty loud. If you use FaceTime audio the calls have better quality and seem to have lower latency than regular phone calls. You can also do conference calls for more than one student. The disadvantage could be the latency (delay). The solution to that is for you (the instructor) to resist the temptation to shout and speak quietly. That way the student will hear you only in their earphone and not become confused.

For good quality and no interference with hearing the sounds around you, I suggest AfterShokz bone conduction headset for your student. These aren't great quality for music but they're clear and loud and there are no wires to get the the way.

You could also try duplex wireless headsets like these for a bit more than your budget.

So this antenna basically converts invisible EM to audible sound so you can "hear" nearby sources.

As far as location sound goes, we regularly use the UHF band (470-608MHz) and scan for open frequencies. This is shared with TV channels and other stuff, but usually we can find a section we can use. But even scans sometimes won't detect temporary or spurious noise on a channel, and sometimes noise hits many frequencies all at once.

If this antenna could gather things in that frequency range or thereabouts and attenuate outside that range, we could find sources of UHF noise that might be interfering with our mics. It isn't much use detecting a massively wide range of frequencies as it does now, since many things on a set use radio signals that don't interfere with each other.

But some camera equipment, designed to run in 2.4 and 5ghz ranges, bleeds into the lower UHF bands badly. I've suspected it with a few brands, but it'd be great to be able to confirm it in a way the camera folks also understood. If I was having trouble with dropouts, I could simply walk around the area with this and try to find the source of interference.

I guess I could use something like this and attach a wideband antenna loop to it, and go from there.

This is very off topic for this subreddit – This subreddit is for location sound, production sound, and field recording. We are the sound department responsible for recording the audio when shooting film/video.

To "feel" bass you need a "Butt Kicker" or other low frequency shaker/transducer. No idea if it is good or not, but this is an example:
https://www.amazon.com/AuraSound-AST-2B-4-Shaker-Tactile-Transducer/dp/B0002ZPTBI/

But to do it right, you'd be way over budget both in power needs as well as money

I can't find the same anymore, would this be the right replacement? Limited-time deal: Anker PowerCore 20,100mAh Portable Charger Ultra High Capacity Power Bank with 4.8A Output and PowerIQ Technology, External Battery Pack for iPhone, iPad & Samsung Galaxy & More (Black) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00X5RV14Y/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_dl_K4F679S1BCK9JB870FKV

I use this https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08K48FTT3/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1 it works for the shure 93

>(Leicozic) IEM Rx'

Seems perfect, the bulky transmitter can sit with the F6 in the audio case. Now I know what these are called: in ear monitors!

Oh I found one cheaper and less bulky on amazon, sucks = return.

https://www.amazon.com/Wireless-Professional-Transmitter-Rehearsal-Performance/dp/B09BMX3NZ9/ref=sr\_1\_6?crid=PJCVF5COK1T5&keywords=wireless%2Bin%2Bear%2Bmonitor&qid=1651628326&sprefix=wireless%2Bin%2Bear%2Bmonitor%2Caps%2C121&sr=...

I just made a post about this issue a few days ago.

What solved my issue and allowed me to use any 3.5mm mic in my Tascam DR40x was this product from rode, vxlr+

https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B071LNDKBJ/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A3DWYIK6Y9EEQB&psc=1

other kinds of xlr to 3.5mm adapters exist but if they do not lower the voltage they would destroy most mics.

The 1/4 inputs on the tascam do not provide phantom power.

Yes. I do that with a breakout cable. I use the Shure VP83 on a boom and one channel of the Pico system.

I tried the ORCA phone holder and it couldn't even hold my iPhone SE in a fairly beefy case. How dare I not have a big phone! I bought this which looks similar enough to the one you linked, virtually the same really, though it is blue and matches my OR-32 bag :)

I have one of these in each of my audio bags, and a few of my dedicated audio guys have bought them and use them, as well. They can hold from cell phones up to iPad Pro 12.9’s.

Get this cable: 3.5 mm TRS to Dual XLR Male Pro Stereo Breakout Cable, 1/8" TRS Stereo to 2 XLR Male Y Splitter Patch Microphone Cable, 3.3 Feet - JOLGOO https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0824WV22B/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_8V78F20RHCRH8CTVER6W?psc=1

I use my 5v 6060 with the Sony UWP-D. It sounds way better than the stock mic and better than the Deity W.Lav Pro.

I'm sure DPA is right and I'm leaving some performance on the table, but for some basic dialogue I can't tell what that performance might be and they sound great.

I was thinking of ordering this and doing an A/B comparison against just the lav plugged straight into recorder.

Thanks. So I am using this as to send the audio signal: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075FM4ZYM/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_A0V3H5VE0NTN8FKQMKPK?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

And this as the mixer https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0739Z4RTF/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_4M61NJBKEE89QP0EH2GD?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

The TalentCell is great, I have 2 of them. Just don't use the 5v for anything when using it on audio gear. It has a mediocre 5v regulator and gives you a hum.

I have a few of these Hosa 3.5mm splitter cables. They're the ticket. HOSA Stereo 3.5 mm Phone Male -... https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B000068O5H?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Sometimes with cheap lavs you strike gold, sometimes not.

For the longest time, I was using a $20 lav mic that I grabbed from Amazon, and after some processing the sound was so good it rivaled my regular broadcast mic.

IN case you're marginally curious, here's the link to the mic. (I had a couple of audio engineers call "bullshit" when I tried to tell them it was this mic in my videos.)

https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B07SHCNX4L

So up until this year I would have agreed with most of these comments, but I stumbled upon this lav setup: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B09HCGLQRR/ when refreshing my gear and they've been solid af. They easily handle 4 speakers, just be sure to take levels off each mic when starting. Best of luck!

Mix pre 10-t has lots of juicy output options that you should use instead of the headphone out. That's yours buddy, don't share! The 3.5mm x1/x2 can be split using an inexpensive cable ( Hosa YMP-137 3.5 mm TRS to Dual 1/4 inch TSF Stereo Breakout Cable )

You can route your mix or individual inputs pre or post fade to these. Say one for boom (with slate) and one for producer

There is also the two balanced outputs (L/R) on the other side with similarly flexible routing options.

You can use these on both the mic and headphone jacks. Hosa YMM-261 3.5 mm TRS to Dual 3.5 mm TSF Stereo Breakout Cable https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B000068O5H/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_5CPAXGGHFPKWZZYTR8QV

You could use something like this out of the headphone jack and feed an on-camera monitor or external speaker with only the right channel.

Shure MVi Digital

https://www.amazon.com/Shure-Digital-Audio-Interface-Lightning/dp/B08G7BZXLQ/

Has phantom power, touch interface with a mute button, not bad for 100$. I use it to power a Shure CVG12D-B/C 12" (Zoom meetings, webinars)

I’ve closed car doors on an XLR before and have been fine. But if you need multiple cables, your best option is getting an Ethernet snake so you can run four channels over one cable.

Here's my suggestion. Ditch that battery and get one that is USB-C. I have this one (https://www.aukey.com/collections/power-banks/products/aukey-slimline-usb-c-power-bank-with-3-input-4-output-20000mah) which is super slim and easily fits in the smallest pocket of my bag. I just use a USB-C to USB-C cable to power the mixpre. The battery lasts forever. I have 4xAA in the sled for backup. It's so slim I don't even notice it and after an 8 hour day I usually still have like 60% battery left. Plus it can power my phone or charge other devices if needed.

Prior to having the slim battery, I used one of these https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B014ZO46LK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 with a USB-C to USB-C cable and that worked perfectly.

So go regulated - Eonvic D-TAP to Hirose 4 Pin Power Cable for Zoom F8 Sound Devices 633/644/688 Regulated 12V https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07VWVVH1Z/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_SSQK6H3A7VYM6TNXSPVH?psc=1

What's wrong with your current setup?

I use a TalentCell battery, lots of positive comments online for these with the Zooms. Way cheaper than smart batteries, lasts longer than a full day.

Avery GHS label stock. Designed for chemical labels. Resists tearing, fading, and bleaching. Designed to be submerged in sea water for 90 days.

They make them in a bunch of different sizes, but I use the full sheet style and cut them to fit on one of these

Interestingly, after you do this, you might listen and assume it is clipped due to equipment issues. It might not be.

You should take a careful look at the waveform. It might look roughly like a half sine with DC offset. This is typical of ultra-high SPL recordings...Or for vibrations which are physically constrained from full sinusoidal travel. I've seen that signal form during in vibration and drop testing during product development. Oversimplified: Think a ball dropping and bouncing.

What you would be seeing is absolute clipping with respect to atmospheric pressure. While air (nitrogen) can theoretically be compressed so much it forms a liquid (your positive side of the sine wave), it can only drop in pressure to a vacuum (the negative side).

Related: max SPL in a dynamic mic will be defined by the physical travel of the coil, and the spring rate of the mounting system of the coil. In a condenser, by the travel of the diaphragm.

Interesting link with answers from NASA dude, who puts max atmospheric SPL at 194 dB: https://www.quora.com/Why-did-the-space-shuttles-rockets-make-popping-sounds-as-opposed-to-a-smooth-rumbling-noise-during-liftoff/

If looking to save money for a one time type of deal you could maybe look into the Movo brand:

Movo BWS1000 Blimp Wind & Vibration Protection System for Shotgun Microphones - Features 12-point Internal Shockmount, Integrated XLR Cable, Furry Deadcat Windscreen & Grip Handle with Boom Attachment https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07SKHTQ4D/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_N69KSXYX5JWE9XK3935A?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

I can’t vouch for this item itself but I use other Movo windscreens with my stereo pair of AKG 460 actives and they are great for the price.

It seems like the onboard recordings are just a lav worn by the cyclist, if you're just doing videos solo for yourself I'd recommend a portable 32bit float recorder like the Tentacle Track E (link) or Zoom F2 (link).

They're both small and pocketable, record at 32bit float (which is handy for a situation like this where it's a little more tricky to set levels), and come with a lav. They don't come with the best mics, but for your budget it'll do the trick.

You'll want to experiment with placement, and will need to mount it securely--most likely under clothing to avoid excessive wind hitting the mic. If you only care about the bike sound itself and less about dialogue, it might be worth trying to mount it down a pant leg.

>Keep in mind If you just bought 1 and jam synced it, you would have to re-jam sync it around every break/8 hours or so. I've accidentally power off my recorder for an hour or so and it still maintained sync (this is one of the big differences between the F8 and F8n). Re-jam syncing isn't as bad as you would imagine, it only takes a few seconds to do once you get it off the camera, but I can see how that could be a problem on bigger shoots.

I used this to sync mine.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B079PZXVRZ?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2_dt_b_product_details

I'm sure you can find em for cheaper, but this was fast.

I saw the y cable here. But you're probably right regarding it. Is this the correct battery?

They're just cheap armband LED lights I bought on Amazon.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07Z1B7XQ8

I took off the elastic band, cut off the links with scissors and put a strip of velcro on the back. They work and fit better than I expected.

There are all kinds of ways to mount grip gear on cars!

SHOOT Jaws Flex Clamp Mount with Adjustable Gooseneck Clip for GoPro Hero 9 8 7 Black Silver White 6 5 4 3+ 3 DJI Osmo Action Camera Accessories https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00QG55080/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_1ZHB5604XA8568EWP0CP?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/Filters-Premium-MagicFiber-Microfiber-Cleaning/dp/B00796D03C

This filter sleeve is a great way to store lav mics. Doesn’t take up too much space and protects them decently.

I use plastic pill pouches https://www.amazon.com/Zippered-Reusable-Pouches-Medicine-Organizer/dp/B09BZ4FWHJ

Then put those into either a soft case that goes into one of my pelicans, or into the drawer of my "tool box" pelican – depending on the load out for the shoot

I bought this for my DR-680. Lasts 12+ hours, takes 16+ to charge fully though. The only issue I could see is that the 12v output isn't regulated. I haven't had a problem so far though.

Oh I totally understand that he his fixed costs and components that he has to buy and stockpile.

But if he believes strongly enough in his product why can't he get a loan from a bank? or an investment from someone who believes in his project.

He needs $120,000 from kickstarter, KS takes a 10% cut off the top, so he's really looking for $108,000.

If he raised half of his kickstarter investment from non kickstarter sources he'd only need to raise $54,000 on KS and he's already an 1/8th of the way there.

I spent about 2 months of time to do a 1 month long kickstarter campaign to raise $22,000. And after fees to KS and our giveaways we are only left with about $12,000. If I spent 2 months tracking down leads and talking to real investors I could've easily done better than kickstarter.

That being said, if you have a strong base it is an easy way to make something without being beholden to investors (see Zach Braff)

Interesting, having owned both the Zoom H4n and Zoom H5 you were able to set the file name as the date/time stamp. very surprised it seems like it's not a feature in the H6. Always hated when someone left their Zoom recorder to ZOOMXXXX instead of date stamp. So many multiple files with the same name.

Just did a little test with https://www.advancedrenamer.com/ (I'm sure there is a Mac equivalent as well) and you can do a batch rename extracting the date/time metadata from the file. which will get you what you want, the only annoying thing is you have to do this on a computer instead of just handing the files over at the end of the day directly from the SD card.

If you haven't used it before, keep in mind that most numbers people give you are dbfs(digital scale, 0 is clipping)and if you're using a vu meter(analogue, +20 is clipping) the numbers don't line up exactly.
https://prezi.com/m/cqlmmqyu3lcr/vu-vs-dbu-vs-dbfs/

I forget offhand if a 688 has switchable meters. If it's set to peak at -6 VU it will be a bit quieter than if peaking at -6dbfs.

In general though mic position is more important than what the meters say. Perfectly positioned mic recording at -20dbfs will sound better than a mic too far away or off axis recording at -6dbfs.

I've had it 2 1/2 years, no issues. Sounds great. The safety track feature is awesome and has saved me a couple of times. Rock solid timecode.

Lots of pro features like routing options, backup recording, multiple power options. Plenty of love for these batteries on the Zoom FB group: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B016BJCRUO Just make sure you use the hirose connection. Other socket should only be used with AC adapter.

That cable you linked to will split a signal, not combine two signals. You need dual XLR-F to XLR-M. Your cable is dual XLR-M to XLR-F.

Something like this might work: CableCreation XLR Splitter Cable, XLR Male to Dual XLR Female Y-Splitter 3Pin Balanced Microphone Cable (XLR-M to Two XLR-F), 0.3M/Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01JY2C9IA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_Y81NKBNHX95HKNF5SZ6S?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

Just rent a Zoom H4n.

I run my recorder, 2 src, an srb, a small light and charge my phone for 18+ hours with this https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07WLD32RP?ref=nb\_sb\_ss\_w\_as-ypp-rep\_ypp\_rep\_k1\_1\_10&amp&crid=2XP32NR13VK8M&amp&sprefix=talentcell

Duluth Trading has some small pouches that are durable as hell and just a bit larger than a transmitter, and enough space for antenna and mic.

here

If you are ok with something hard, I have a set of split storage containers that also just the right size and packs 2 transmitters nicely. something like this

For remote podcasting I’ve been using these. Takes care of the headphones and microphones and sounds pretty dang good for $30. If you want even better, look at gaming headsets in the $70-$80 range, the mics are really good! Sennheiser Consumer Audio Sennheiser PC 8 USB - Stereo USB Headset for PC and MAC with In-line Volume and Mute Control, Black, Small https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005HWEZGG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_Y04FMM1QACYZ2027281K

Yes. This PopVoice is amazingly good. I compared it directly to the $100 Rode and couldn't hear the difference.

On ties, I use these toe spacers that you can find at Walgreens. You have to poke a hole through middle to put the mic through but they work like a charm. Really separates the mic from the tie material.

https://www.amazon.com/NatraCure-Gel-Toe-Separators-Spacers/dp/B076C2CQ2R/ref=sr\_1\_5?dchild=1&keywords=Gel+Toe+Separator+dr+scholls&qid=1631575004&s=industrial&sr=1-5

I recently picked up one of these to carry lav mounting supplies, extra batteries, SD cards, spare cables and adapters, and light snacks. Really anything that'll fit that I want to keep with me when shooting, but that I don't want to clutter up my sound bag with.

If you're referring to something much larger that you use to hold the majority of your gear (like for transporting to gigs), Orca has a few great options. PortaBrace also has options for practically every conceivable situation. Cinebags is considered the gold-standard to a lot of people. If you're looking to save a buck, pretty much any hardware store should have a relatively decent selection of tool bags that would work just fine for holding audio gear.

I use these for all my wireless, Ifb, sync boxes, associated cables and antennas, and adapters. I’ve had 4 of them for about 5 years now and they’re great.

co2crea Hard Travel Case Replacement for GPS Navigation Garmin nuvi Magellan Tomtom Mio Digital Camera and Small Electronics Extra Large (10x5.8x3.2) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B017U0QEXE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_WS615J1FMRB93WT3B2W3?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

I used to use this before I switched to a pelican. Very inexpensive and easy to reconfigure the foam to fit the G3/G4. It doesn't look to be sold anymore but if you search for EVA Monitor Case or something along those lines I'm sure you'll find something.

https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B073F6HHZ9/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I use a cinela and it comes with a hard plastic case, that then goes into a pelican... so not too useful for you I imagine...

I've seen some mixers use yoga mat bags for their rycote style windshields.

Something like this would fit your blimp and a number of accessories I would imagine

Give them what they want. Get one of these double-mic rigs. Put them in condoms and stretch them out near the area where the swimming will happen, explaining to your client that sound travels farther and faster in water so it can get the effects from a fair distance. Connect the pair to a Zoom H1n. Consider it all expendable. For the above-water sound, boom it as usual from a safe distance.

Also remember because the surface of water is sound-reflective you can work booms at a greater distance than on land. Don't get yourself wet.

Another possibility is using the sound only from something like the GoPro Session. The mic works fine underwater. You can discard the video, or even use a shot or two.