What are /r/Machinists' favorite Products & Services?

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They're pricy, but I'm a big fan of this Wera set that has a spring-loaded bearing to help hold screws. It's balls on balls!

EDIT: wrong link

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XDCDHV8/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_SE0APZJ2GGEV739G5XKY?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

I made this for Tia Bertz, a legally blind QC technician.

It can be downloaded here.

Let me know if you'd like any changes made.

Thick gloves, a deburring tool and divine Providence.

AFA Tooling Deburring Tool with 15 High-Speed Steel Rotary Burr Removal Blades https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07RHZ7T5C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_QAVM95AKTK5JPJ59NW4D?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

Something like this will help a lot

You're very welcome. I recommend you get a copy of the user's manual for this lathe. Atlas printed it for years. It shows basic lathe operations circa the 1930s, as well as describing and showing all of the attachments that were available for these lathes.

Here is one example of the book in question: https://www.amazon.com/Manual-Lathe-Operation-Machinists-Tables/dp/B002JYI9D0/ref=sr_1_6?keywords=atlas+lathe+manual&qid=1576032533&sr=8-6

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You can also find parts manuals from Craftsman for them. This will give you the part numbers for everything, in case you ever need to buy a replacement part on ebay.

As for the chucks, they could be for something else. The spindle thread is 1 1/2-8. Spindle is 3MT, tailstock is 2MT. If you make new chuck backing plates, remember that the backing plate register fit is on the OD of the spindle. The backing plate should be 0.001" larger ID than the spindle OD, to maintain acceptable runout. Ask me how I know, lol.

Please educate me, guys. I see the "no gloves around machinery" commonly associated with machining. I have never operated a machine shop tool, unless you count a drill press. I work in construction, and the trend is becoming more and more to wear gloves 100%. We wear these gloves and I have personally had them save my finger from serious injury on more than one occasion when my hand got pinched between 2 heavy things and the finger of the glove just tore out as I was pulling my hand free. With all the sharp edges on things in a machine shop, I would think that cuts and swarf embedded in your hands would make a tight-fitting pair of gloves worth it. For instance, I don't even like picking up an angle grinder without gloves, but it's not a tool that I use often.

I guess my question is, if a machine would pull your gloved hand into a machine if you touched it, wouldn't it just pull your hand into the machine if you touched it? So why not protect your hands from cuts, scrapes, etc the other half of the day? I'm not trying to stir the shit here. I'm just looking for an honest explanation. Thanks.

That ringlight is pretty neat, if you can get it to fit right. FYI all, a quick, easy, and cheap way to add light to any machine is a magnetic "sewing machine light" or two, like this one; there are many similar.

It looks like they've been re scraped but hard to say for sure. There is rust removing solution:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00M0TLQ66/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc_020QN53ZBH7X92QXTZ9P

I've read people using vinegar also but haven't tried myself.

To add to this, avoid the temptation of a cheap Chinese base, get a Noga, buy once cry once. I made do with a cheap china base for 4 years, finally swapped to the noga and wondered why I didn't do it sooner

You aren't going to get "good" for under $50.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00L5T2ZA8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_ZXPyFb34JFBDM

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07GP7NVVL/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_QYPyFb9746HBB

I've used both of these...they are okay, if you don't have to use them everyday.

I probably wouldn’t use calipers for measuring the rotating assembly. I’d look in to a budget set of mics. A couple guys at work have a set of these and we were all really impressed by the quality for the price. Probably if I were in your shoes and not needing the tools for continued use I would get a set of telescoping gauges for measuring the cylinder bores rather than a dial bore gauge set, but know that the bore gauge set would be more accurate.

I'm a camera op, I use allen screws daily. Mostly 5/32 as it's the standard for 1/4-20 but sometimes you run into other odd sized ones. This would be sooooooo nice!

Edit: Link: https://smile.amazon.com/66982-ErgoStar-L-Key-Metric-22-Piece/dp/B009461IMA

Edit2: Looks like some customers are complaining of poor quality and broken keys. Well, I guess You buy for the holder and replace the keys lol...

Funneling defect in the extrustion process. Basicly the inner material fails to bond to the outter layer while being drawn through the dye. Starts in the middle and kind of walks/rolls outward. The pressure pinches the thin end of the wedge and the core is being forced backward through the dye to releive the pressure.

Link for pics https://www.slideshare.net/mobile/khushbakhatnida/extrusion-defects

Stanley 30-487, 30-497 and 30-457 is what I use here in Europe but i'm not sure you can find those in Canada.

Looks like metric only Fatmax is available: https://www.amazon.ca/Stanley-0-33-728-Miara-32mm-fat-max/dp/B000X2F0GO

The guys would buy these costly one-use hand warmers, I ended up using an hot water bottle.

Like this:

https://www.amazon.com/Small-Rubber-Hot-Water-Bottle/dp/B001EOJ0Z2

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Filled as hot/warm as you want. Place inside the inner pocket of the jacket, and just change it out as needed. Obviously useless if you do not have access to hot water...

Pocket knife, flashlight, wallet, phone, engraved brass pen >!Who the fuck took my... Oh, there it is. <my name>!<, sharpie. I don't usually move from machine to machine, and don't need to cut stock in this shop so I don't carry a scale anymore, used to though. I don't like the idea of keeping a caliper/mic on my person because I'm often leaning into the machine and I feel like they would be getting bumped, dinged, bent, and scraped a lot no matter where I tried to put them. Other than the pen and sharpie, the flashlight gets used the most. Checking insert wear? Flashlight. Dropped a nut into the bottom of the machine? Flashlight. Closely inspecting a part? Flashlight. Forgot your phone on the bench and your coworker with the shop key is about to pull away in his truck? Flashlight.

I use these. The only issue I have with them is that the cord breaks off right at the earplug and when that happens it's a lot more difficult to get the plug out of your ear.

I was struggling recently to figure out how to measure things like chamfers, chamfer tool tip diameters, and other things without square sides I can put a micrometer around.

I already had this cheap but surprisingly good digital microscope. I bought one of these linear stages, screwed it to the base, and turned on the microscope's crosshair. Measure anything you want by lining up one side with the crosshair, turn the screw until the other side is under the crosshair, and read off the difference. Pretty easy to read down to 0.005mm (0.0002in), and no parallax error since you're always going off the same spot in the image.

Amazon has the Mitutoyo's for just over $1K. I used these and they were wonderful.
https://www.amazon.com/Mitutoyo-Absolute-Digital-Caliper/dp/B00CHRC75U?th=1

If you want to try it out you can install it in a virtual machine with something like virtualbox and run the simulated machines. You can mess around with it not have to worry about screwing up an actual machine.

There are "plugins" for FreeCAD to produce gcode. I've not used them but FreeCAD itself is pretty good.

dxf2gcode generates gcode from drawings. I have no experience with it.

Consider LinuxCNC. It's open source and zero cost, but you need someone cluefull to integrate it with your machine. Post to the developers' mailing list, let them know what machine you have, where you are, and ask if anyone wants to bid on the integration project.

http://linuxcnc.org/

https://sourceforge.net/p/emc/mailman/

I have been telling anyone I can about this style of heater.

They are designed for rvs, campers, semi trucks and cars. I heard in Europe remote start isn't a thing. You can't run the cars engine to heat up the cabin so they have these smaller more fuel efficient heaters that run on diesel.

It is a fully enclosed heat exchanger so the combustion air is exhausted to outside. I put mine under the garage door. Imo this is a big deal compared to a torpedo heater that fouls up the air. Importantly too the humidity from combustion is exhausted outside so you don't have as much of a rust issue when that humidity condenses when you turn the heater off.

I found the 8kw size to be sufficient for me to be comfortable.

There's a few styles around. The core of the units are all pretty similar but some have more of an enclosure type packaging that I got. You'll probably need a 12v power supply as well.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07LFFHNP1/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_awdb_imm_6FKHCCTFCTJ1NZB2VXRC

Every shop I’ve worked at will show you how to do something once happily if you ask again they get more and more reluctant to show you anything. So always take notes the best thing I’ve done is buy one of these notepads the paper in it stands up well to coolant and general muck. Mines got everything in it from sorting out errors, G and M codes, program examples and speeds/ feeds, now if I can’t remember something I don’t have to ask the bloke training me I can sort it out my self. And if you want to watch videos the haas YouTube channel has a lot covered.

HHIP mag base on Amazon works just as well imo.

Idk if this is allowed... but I use this guy....dropped in the coolant a couple times ... No problems yet. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08V1Q5J85/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_imm_7GHRZZ6979G0TAE4N1V1?_encoding=UTF8&amp;psc=1

I mean I get it, it's on Amazon, but still at least make the chip LOOK like it's coming from the tool. Lmao.

Link: https://www.amazon.com/Indexable-MTJNR1616H16-MWLNR1616H08-MCLNR1616H12-WNMG431/dp/B07ZPM9B4W/?_encoding=UTF8&amp;pd_rd_w=SVdjy&amp;pf_rd_p=49ff6d7e-521c-4ccb-9f0a-35346bfc72eb&amp;pf_rd_r=NNY7REQ2CH8CAGA46Z19&amp;pd_rd_r=75913c13-0db8-4b68-9271-3...

For wall charts I usually snag them free at trade shows, but Here is one on Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/Morse-Heavy-Large-Plastic-Chart/dp/B07J57XZXS/ref=pd_sbs_1?pd_rd_w=RpdRj&amp;pf_rd_p=ed1e2146-ecfe-435e-b3b5-d79fa072fd58&amp;pf_rd_r=T4SCXWQP9CDZMWN33AV8&amp;pd_rd_r=2bd8b119-e459-4fe1-b4ad-eb25f204fa30&amp;pd_rd_wg=U19JP&a...

Of course you can always use anything that inspires you. Have some fun.

I really like these noga flex mag bases

Metric taps are not labeled that way. They'll be called something like M16 x 1.5 (16mm major diameter, 1.5mm pitch) and M11 x 1.25. Is that what you're looking for? If you really don't know what you need, buy a thread pitch gage like this one on Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/Mitutoyo-188-152-Metric-Screw-Leaves/dp/B001OBUZM2/ref=sr_1_4?s=industrial&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1464801118&amp;sr=1-4&amp;keywords=metric+thread+pitch+gauge

I'm actually pretty sure it's Taster, that is what it says on Practical Machinist, Tormach, and they are listed on Amazon by Haimer under that name. https://www.amazon.com/HAIMER-80-960-00-Zero-Master-Taster/dp/B0057POFNQ/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1491860834&amp;sr=8-5&amp;keywords=haimer+taster

Well that's nice and cheap, unfortunately with the shipping it'd still end up $22 USD.

I did see one open-ended one on Amazon, but I wanted to get on with my project ASAP (instead of waiting another week) so ordered the drill-style one. I guess I'll find out tomorrow if the collect chuck will even fully fit in it first.

I wasn't finding a drawbar anyway to fit the chuck, and was going to have to make something up (thread some roundbar to M10-1.5, put a nut of some sort on the other end).

I wonder if I'd be able to cut/part off the tail of the sleeve I got, to 1) remove the tang and 2) allow access to the chuck's drawbar.

I’m using Kool Mist for just about everything and I’ve been happy with it. It’s super cheap, works well and doesn’t leave a huge mess. If I could run a proper flood coolant system I would, but due to being an open machine I can’t.

The bath is super easy, it’s just a bit more involved to set up. If I had an enclosed machine, I’d be inclined to run it with flood coolant every time, but I’d be worried about that getting into the machine. Getting that powder on your ways is fucking terrible and can destroy a machine pretty quickly if you’re not cleaning everything after each time you cut CF. I think the extra time for setup is worth it, but I’m not running production or having to hold super tight tolerances in most cases.

I’ve mainly been doing 3mm CF using 1/8” end mills. I’m pretty sure I’m using what you’re describing. I get the coated carbide diamond pattern end mills from Amazon. (HQMaster 10Pcs CNC Rotary Burrs Set End Mill Engraving Bits PCB Milling Bits 1/8'' Shank Titanium Coated Tungsten Steel Corn Milling Cutter Tool for SMT Mold Plastic Fiber Wood Carbon Insulation Board https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07G3Z5FJ7/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_G7YTCbMCMRXQ1). They’re incredibly cheap, last pretty long and give a surprisingly good finish. It doesn’t feel right that they work so well.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/ppmfdrz532wbtu4/Photo%20Apr%2017%2C%204%2054%2020%20AM.jpg?dl=0

Here’s the part I cut last night. I’m very happy with those end mills. Especially considering I was using a 400 watt spindle slapped onto the Fryer’s head ahah.

> All of the pockets are to retain structural rigidity while reducing weight.

This is the same engineering concept as the Pantheon rotunda in Rome.

Hi all,

Thought you guys would get a kick out of this old manual for screw cutting I picked up a few weekends ago for $5. It was printed in 1903. Simpsons - Manual for Screw cutting (PDF link)

Note: The last few pages in the PDF are of a part-packing flier/pamphlet that was tucked in the back.

The appendix has some interesting stuff.

The last few pages are a selection of quotes that are pretty nice.

Also it smelled like a solidly used shop :)

I found this print online.

There are about 50 different parts. Some would have to be purchased (like the springs.) The sear would require some special tooling to get the bends right. And a few of the milled parts would take some thoughful fixturing. The tolerance on the barrel isn't too tough but I'm not sure how I would cut it. I'm sure there are some tools just for that.

All in all it's doable but it would take lots of time lots of fixtures and lots of patience.

Software licensing is the biggest barrier. I've been (re)teaching myself solidworks lately. OP's part would take me about me about 20 minutes to model, and then I'd literally click a button that says 'extract machineable features' and pray that there are no errors lol

There's a hobbyist license for Fusion 360, and something comparable for solidworks that I've got which has a CAM addin(from here, though I lost the extra instructions from the /r/cad post that I got it from).

https://www.amazon.com/Fastcap-PMMR-TRUE32-True32-Reverse-measuring/dp/B000GFHABG

I have an imperial version that I use and love

I have an old Keuffel & Esser Ruling Pen that l use.

Very sharp and well ground end out of good steel. Has ben the best tweezers I've ever found.

This Caliper and micrometer holster changed my life. This and a mini-mag on my belt. Always have them on hand, never drop them. Save your pockets for EDC items like pen/sharpie, keys, wallet, phone, and knife.

Yeah, I can totally see that. I've got a pierson pallet system and vacuum chuck plate so I could do the entire keyset op1 in one go, but like...I don't really think that'd save that much time. Would dropping the 10 key and going to a more minimalist layout simplify the process? I know there's a huge market for custom mechanical - something like this layout could save a lot of the work by cutting out overtravel limitations.

Most adjustable wrenches aren't thumb detectors, just nut fuckers. You gotta get the special ones to get the thumb detector built in.

Try Amazon. There are a couple that pop up on there: but the only newer ones I've seen say "workshop", so I'm assuming for smaller projects; or they are reprints of older books. Don't know if https://www.amazon.com/dp/8120340957/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc_KMRHPBQMAX4EW5ZH07XB will help, but hopefully someone could answer better. Gl!

I gave the rules of thumb for carbide tools. For hss you’d be shooting for the straw/gold color in your chips and blue would be too hot and would soften the tool. For ceramic tools that don’t soften very much at all with temperature all of this goes out the window and the chips come off as sparks.

To cut a ductile material, all of the volume that gets turned into chips gets 100% cold worked. There’s a measurement for this called specific cutting energy, which is the energy (J) that has to be added to a volume of material (cm^3) to turn it into chips. There’s a different value for every material.

When cutting steels with carbide tools yes you pretty much always want to see a blue chip. Different alloys and hardnesses will require the programmer or operator to alter the cutting speed and/or chip load to maintain the right temperature in the tool which is most easily monitored by watching the chip color. For a mild steel this might mean a surface speed of 300-350smm where the same tool in 44HRc 4140 would be more appropriate at 120-150smm.

If you can get your hands on a paper or pdf copy of this book there’s a good foundation for this sort of thing in the machining chapter https://www.amazon.com/Manufacturing-Engineering-Technology-Serope-Kalpakjian/dp/0131489658

Does this one appear to be similar to the one you have?

I will always post this on a 10mm joke. You can get on Amazon and buy sets of just 10mm assorted sockets! This is my go-to gift for my car/motorcycle mechanic friends.

https://www.amazon.com/KD-Tools-80319-Master-Socket/dp/B00LH7DM14

leather ones

Scribe/Pick dirt cheap, and super useful for getting trash out of threads or ID's or scribing lines etc, help for picking out chunks of broken taps, great for that little extra reach for when you drop something under your toolbox or catching parts that you you use a cutoff tool on the lathe. You can always find a new innovative uses for it. Eventually the cheap ones pull out of the holder, this one is threaded , stick some epoxy on it and its good as new though.

https://www.amazon.com/Ullman-Devices-No-1810-Pointed-Scriber/dp/B000GTP06Y/ref=sxin_9_ac_d_rm?ac_md=0-0-c2NyaWJl-ac_d_rm&amp;cv_ct_cx=scribe&amp;dchild=1&amp;keywords=scribe&amp;pd_rd_i=B000GTP06Y&amp;pd_rd_r=289c1e8b-55ef-453d-a8a2-2165cb681f45&...

Jokes aside I always thought it might be a novel idea to make a fine adjust hammer. Like instead of a traditional hammer it would be a spring loaded plunger thing with a fine adjust for how far back you can pull it before locking into place, so you can set how much force it hits with.

Likethis but in reverse. Or possibly like a auto center punch with a wide hammer face instead of a sharp point

https://www.amazon.com/Hotop-Blades-Feeler-Imperial-Measuring/dp/B06XHLQPHB

This is a cheap set, Sterret makes a set for example. They are graduated pieces of accurate sheet metal that you use to gauge thin distances. Need to check .002" flatness? Grab your .0015 feeler put the lart of granite and feeler gauge the edge.

I use them to touch off z lengths for tooling.

Found this on Amazon and will submit it to my purchaser, looks like it would be useful in a variety of situations.

We had a high school kid come in part time as a janitor and he wanted me to make a solid 2" receiver to flag pole mount for his truck. I showed him this and tried to explain to him that it wasn't worth my time or the machine's time to make anything pointless that you can buy on amazon for $30.

I know I know. I'm not saying I'm all for the changes but it's an uphill battle and at the end of the day they have a stronger argument.

I have to deal with these issues all the time "how safe is safe enough". I mean at some point you can just turn the thing off and go home. Safe as hell, right?

But then again people sue for multi millions when they shred their hand on a face mill or rapid into a spinning part with the door open and get a permanent dent where their eye used to be. Even though they removed the panel/door with the big yellow pictures of hands/eyes being mutilated. It only takes one greedy lawyer to screw it up for the rest of us. You did something dumb, you lived, you learned (hopefully) and you're still broke. Case closed.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00PWCY4FS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_imm_t1_3dq3FbQ90GERJ?_encoding=UTF8&amp;psc=1

These are all of your items, right? https://www.amazon.com/s?me=A3MI2B1FLQMYUF&amp;marketplaceID=ATVPDKIKX0DER

I'm just a hobbyist so I might not be the best person to ask, but more 3/8" cutters would be great. I have a really small mill and it struggles to cut well with anything larger than that, so I'm always on the lookout for nice carbide endmills in that size. I've started buying some Niagara endmills, but I think I'll give this one a whirl, since it's a fair bit cheaper and I'm really good at chipping endmills.

Is that a Kennedy 285XB? 5-drawer, 27" x 18" x 16"? I'm eyeballing one of those on my local CL, dude's asking $300. Very tempted. Any opinions on yours?

You can do it on a mill. you'd want a something like this https://www.amazon.com/Mophorn-Dividing-Precision-Universal-Tailstock/dp/B01NAQ0S6X (a higher quality one if you're making a bunch)

or if you want to get crazy fancy a mill turn center

Honestly bro I have no idea why you need your cans so flat compared to what anyone of a hundred different can crushers on amazon can do.

What I can tell you though is to drill a hole in a 55lb cast iron anvil, thread that hole, sourcing a handle, having them thread that handle etc.. the labor alone will cost way more than just buying something like this -

amazon

If I was you I would either -

A. Be ok with not completely flat cans.

B. Get something like that up there and use a bigger lever to get more crush with your initial hit.

IMHO, the "Pocket Ref" is the best. They cost about $10, and are worth every penny. They are available at bookstores, hardware stores, Amazon, even McMaster.

Pocket Ref 4th Edition https://www.amazon.com/dp/1885071620/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_ZP3ZwbPVKT6MQ

I got some digital 4" off amazon made by a company called igaging, they measure the same and repeat just as well as my brown and sharpe calipers.

Here is the same thing I have but the 6" version. https://www.amazon.com/iGaging-Electronic-Digital-Fractions-Stainless/dp/B001AQEZ2W/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1468282237&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=igaging

These counterbore sets are great to have around, and the old-school factor is definitely cool; however, this particular set would only be worth it if the price is around $150-$200

The fact that you can swap out pilot tips isn't actually very useful (in my case at least) because the fixed pilot counterbore sets are all made to standard and metric screw sizes already. You can pick up a new counterbore set of standard and metric for a total of ~ $100. I picked mine up from amazon here here and here

camelcamelcamel and amazon wish list with tools is your friend.

Keep waiting and waiting until a crazy deal.

I got this (https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0006J4WIG) for USD127

Pretty spanking deal on the 1" dial version too. USD99 https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B0006J4WI6/ref=biss_dp_t_asn

Edit: context

So assuming you are using a fanuc type control and not okuma osp or something weird (in that case check your manuals or call your distributer. Where I’m at Gosiger Machine offers an awesome course on Okuma OSP macro programming) Peter Smids Fanuc Macro book is the best resource I’ve found.

A helpful hint I use is to write the variable # on the part print dimensions before programming.

Fanuc CNC Custom Macros

https://www.amazon.com/dp/0831131578/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_EgdxFb82FNF7A

PDF for download: http://93.174.95.29/main/1358000/d823e05edfc1f5817f96b28649b192c3/Peter%20Smid%20-%20Fanuc%20CNC%20Custom%20Macros-Industrial%20Press%20Inc%20%282005%29.pdf

It looks like a DP2020 this may help https://www.amazon.com/DELTA-MILWAUKEE-Drill-DP-220-Instructions-Manual/dp/B019NI05LS

https://www.amazon.com/Microflex-Diamond-Latex-Gloves-X-Large/dp/B00TAC7AU2?th=1

I used these all the time when I was a mechanic. They work great and if you're careful during glove removal you can get an entire day out of one pair

40 cents a day really isn't expensive

By "programming" I assume you mean gcode and not a CAM system.

"CNC Programming Handbook" by Peter Smid is the best single book I've come across on the subject of gcode programming: https://www.amazon.com/Programming-Handbook-Third-Peter-Smid/dp/0831133473

If you mean CAM then F360 probably has the most free resources, and Mastercam has the HLE which is even easier to get than F360 and has excellent cheap books by caminstructor. I would prioritize Mastercam as a professional, because it has the largest market share.

You don't need anything that fancy. This sort of tool is what works great to get taps started (cheaply)

HHIP 3900-0215 Spring-Loaded Tap Guide https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00R13VQCA/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_6MQECbRDG4FGQ

It gets chucked up (in your case) in the drill press chuck, and then you use the handwheel to apply pressure to it's spring center tip(with the drill press off, you are just using it as a squaring fixture). This tip will engage the center drilled point on the back or your tap. Then it's just a matter of turning the tap a couple turns to get it started. Once it's started, this spring center can be retracted out of the way for the rest of the tapping operation. You can use a regular tap handle for this whole setup. It is worth noting that these don't really work with tap sockets unless your ratchet or driver has a center point on the back of it.

I know you don't want disposables, but these are my go to ear plug. I wear them pretty much every day and they're comfortable and not too expensive, and they're pretty great as far as NRR goes too. The reusable plugs I've had in the past tend to get really uncomfortable, and don't seem to block as much noise as these.

If you're looking for a muff recommendation, I really like my Peltor electronic ones for shooting, but I've never tried them in the shop. The NRR isn't as high as the Hearos disposables I like, but I prefer my muffs when shooting because they're electronic and still let you hear normal volume sounds before the protection circuitry kicks in and shuts the sound off.

Oh, shit, those are huge fruit corers.

Highly recommend chopping them down to 4” length and making some caps so your kid doesn’t pop a new hole in themself or someone else.

I have one very similar to this. I am assuming you have to adjust the belts on top to change speed. This is a great mill to learn on. You might want to add a digital read out to make it really useful since there will most likely be a lot of gear backlash in the bed. Ask them to throw in as many collets, bits, and tooling as you can get. They have a doll chuck on the quill right now. Also, get a good vice, they are harder to find for this size mill, here is the one I use from scamazon https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009E0EBF2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&amp;th=1

This mill is good for wood, plastic, aluminum, and other softer metals. Maybe drilling steel but not for making slots or facing.

Here's one. Not sure of the quality though. https://www.amazon.ca/Accusize-Capacity-Precision-Keyless-0222-0880/dp/B00HWFMSDI/ref=asc_df_B00HWFMM7U/?tag=googleshopc0c-20&amp;linkCode=df0&amp;hvadid=293024427005&amp;hvpos=&amp;hvnetw=g&amp;hvrand=6018802780453643471&amp;hvpone=&amp;hvptwo=&amp;hvqmt=&amp;hvdev=c&amp;hvdvcmdl=&amp;hvlocint=&amp;hvlocphy=9000759&amp;hvtargid=pla-594739089966&amp;th=1

I’ve used these in a few different places.

SATECH Sticky/Tacky/Adhesive Mat

Cleans shoes, carts, anything that goes across them. Comes as a 4 pack with 30 sheets each, clean where you want to put them then stick the back layer down. Whenever they get too dirty or at the start of each day you just peel up the top layer and expose a new sticky layer.

These are great for dirt/dust containment from shoes but they work great on wheels all the same. Hope that helps u/AethericEye

https://www.amazon.com/Machinerys-Handbook-Toolbox-Erik-Oberg/dp/0831137312/ref=sr_1_1?crid=DJSXTVQ1032S&amp;keywords=machinery%27s+handbook&amp;qid=1671072241&amp;sprefix=Machinery%27s+%2Caps%2C150&amp;sr=8-1

I'd suggest getting a large diaphragm aquarium pump, like this one. They're super quiet and designed for continuous operation. They don't put out a ton of pressure or a ton of volume, but you don't need either of those for your application.

A small shop compressor should be able to keep up with the air demands of an air assist system with a proper regulator (set it at like 5-10 psi max), but it will certainly be louder and more obnoxious than a dedicated air pump.

Searching for soap press turned up not only the same soap press mold but the listing contains what looks like the same picture (#5) of the same device. https://www.amazon.com/PrePress-Aluminum-Flower-Pressing-Extraction/dp/B097YYTB5T/

Take a look at iGaging calipers, they make excellent calipers close to mitutoyo quality but cheaper. They feel very smooth and are also absolute origin calipers like mitutoyo's. Basically mitutoyo's but for 40-60€. Would recommend checking some reviews on youtube though

https://www.amazon.com/iGaging-ABSOLUTE-Digital-Electronic-Caliper/dp/B00INL0BTS

Apologies friends! Co-worker is too lazy to look up the exact link, but they were an Amazon buy. I’m pretty sure these are what you’re after.

>These seem nice as a combo filter, do you know if they have the same connection as 3M respirators?

Wow, just found this one coming in at under $35 and uses the 3M 6000/7000 series filters. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0B4N6YND8/

The 3M Full Face 7000 Series I use does. Guessing for the price (half off), their 6000 series is good enough.

Something like this? link

don't delete it, someone down the road will have a similar question.

If it was giving off radiation, it would have a different sticker on it, and would (should?) NEVER have made it out of the shop, let alone building..

&#x200B;

https://www.amazon.com/DECAL-CAUTION-RADIOACTIVE-2-CAUTION-RADIOACTIVE-MATERIAL/dp/B011IDPUNE

Modeling programs are CAD (computer aided design/drafting) Machining programs are CAM (Computer Aided Machining/Manufacturing)

Typically I am given a 3d model by the customer that I will use to create geometry to machine. Once this geometry is created in the CAM program I will use the available strategies in the program to machine the parts in the most efficient and effective way based on my experiences.

I will also consult with tooling manufacturers literature for starting points regarding appropriate speeds and feeds based on part material, tool material and the cutting conditions at the time (tool stick out, maybe you can't use coolant etc.)

Regarding hand programming in our shop. We don't save the g-code programs that the machines use to manufacture our parts so the majority of our changes are made in the CAM program itself so that they will be there for the next reposting of the g-code file. It also has the added benefit that what the machinist sees in the CAM simulation is what he will get once he's at the machine.

Here is a basic example of my workflow with gibbscam: http://tinypic.com/r/2cqdxuh/8

1)The teal lines are geometry I've created from the edges of the model.

2)The orange lines are the toolpath created for the 25.4mm (1") cutter in the top left in yellow

3)The tiles to the right are the individual operations for manufacturing the part (the numbers represent which tool is being used)

4)The dialog box in the center is the operation data for the orange tool path shown.

Here is a picture of the same model I have. There is 16" back there to cut off. There are no parts back there. I think there used to be a main power switch, but it is no longer there after the CNC conversion.

https://www.amazon.com/Foundations-mechanical-accuracy-Wayne-Moore/dp/B0006CAKT8

dude is talking about how they make surface plates to a millionth of an inch of flatness, shits fucking crazy

https://www.amazon.com/Anti-Rust-VCI-Paper-Roll/dp/B0B1VKRB5G/ref=sr\_1\_1\_sspa?crid=1TL6Y1HXSXGGE&amp;keywords=zerust+paper&amp;qid=1667199369&amp;qu=eyJxc2MiOiIwLjAwIiwicXNhIjoiMC4wMCIsInFzcCI6IjAuMDAifQ%3D%3D&amp;sprefix=zerust+paper%2Caps%2C1...

There’s always this lol

https://www.amazon.com/Solid-Steel-Metal-Hardening-Wrapping/dp/B07MDSCQ4B/ref=asc_df_B07MDSCQ4B/?tag=hyprod-20&amp;linkCode=df0&amp;hvadid=241949316177&amp;hvpos=&amp;hvnetw=g&amp;hvrand=1617800593235635454&amp;hvpone=&amp;hvptwo=&amp;hvqmt=&amp;h...

While they sure ain't name brand, these calipers have been working well for occasional use. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B5XJW7I They read inch and metric from the dial.

$16 on Amazon.

Ill give it a go!

I figured 1/4” die is a 1/4” die... im so above my pay grade! Lol thanks for the suggestion, I ordered it. Fingers crossed 🤞

https://www.amazon.ca/IRWIN-7403ZR-4-18-NPT-Die/dp/B0006NDHJM

I found a chasing hammer that looks very similar.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0015QDL5O

That's the kit I got, I have a couple #4s a #5 and #7 along with a few others and they are all various ages from late 1800s to mid 1900s. I got it like 5 years ago so I'm honestly not sure which part I replaced. And not sure if those even work with a Rabbit plane.

https://www.hyperkitten.com/tools/stanley_bench_plane/

This is a good site to figure out what year your plane was made and what the thread should be... though again it's based on a #4 so not sure if it is at all applicable to a #78.

There is a good chance that it could have been cross threaded though. One option I read back in the day is that you might be able to re-tap a slightly larger hole/more common thread. If you take detailed shots of the patent dates and such you might be able to get an answer over on /r/woodworking too, it's an extremely helpful community.

I don't know about reusable, but my favorite style is the Nicholson (based on the old english style I believe). The bulbous end distributes the force on your palm really well. Plus I've gotten them at local hardware stores and they're only a few bucks.

https://www.amazon.com/Nicholson-21520N-Wooden-Handle-Type/dp/B000BO4Q32/ref=zg_bs_242721011_sccl_38/145-2755114-3066254?pd_rd_i=B000BO4Q32&amp;psc=1#

I was looking at one of these things

Specs seem ify for something that cheap. Something in that form seems like the best mix of convenience and function.

Yeah, it’s called a four slide machine. And it’ll take years to master setting one up.
I suggest the board with nails or a pair of round nose pliers

We use this to shoot this chip into a bin

https://www.amazon.ca/Air-Vacuum-Blow-Specialty-Attachments/dp/B07114XSYC/ref=sr_1_6?keywords=vacuum+gun+air&amp;qid=1663269512&amp;sprefix=vaccum+gun%2Caps%2C112&amp;sr=8-6

Closest thing to Cosmoline you can get without going to RU
https://www.amazon.com/CRC-SP-400-Corrosion-Inhibitor-Aerosol/dp/B000P1HKKM

Cleans off with mineral spirits and does a hell of a good job.

Nice and cheap.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Extension-Collet-Straight-Milling-ER11M-100L/dp/B087N5H9T4/ref=asc_df_B087N5H9T4/?tag=googshopuk-21&amp;linkCode=df0&amp;hvadid=480823740401&amp;hvpos=&amp;hvnetw=g&amp;hvrand=12085565575453989638&amp;hvpone=&amp;hvptwo=&a...

Similar case for $9.99/4, or about 2.50 each case.
https://www.amazon.com/DUOFIRE-Organizer-Adjustable-Compartment-Accessories/dp/B078MDSL17/ref=sr_1_32?crid=CO35OG3CA9KM&amp;keywords=organizing%2Bplastic%2Bcase%2Blid&amp;qid=1662836348&amp;sprefix=organizing%2Bplastic%2Bcaselid%2Caps%2C220&amp;sr=8-32&amp;th=1

I'm sure you could get it down to $0.50 per case with a bulk order. Seller is laughing his ass off with his accountant, drug dealer, and pet tiger.

Like this?

I had a job deburring castings for a while and I absolutely hated it. That aside though if you go on amazon they sell kevlar sleeves that will protect your arms from sparks and chips and keep you clean. https://www.amazon.com/58126-Kevlar-18-Inch-Resistant-without/dp/B001B9UDUG/ref=mp_s_a_1_9?crid=1K4D2ZAYVOMDB&amp;keywords=kevlar+sleeves&amp;qid=1661529615&amp;sprefix=kevlar+%2Caps%2C79&amp;sr=8-9

Stereo Microscope. I use one daily.

PEAK Loupe.

Because somethings are just too small to see without help.

My experience with Starrett tools have been poor.

• T-handle tap wrench - Completely off center and off axis. You can see pictures at amazon of this.
• 4 ground parallel set - Massive burrs everywhere
• Depth Micrometer - Rod adjustments are horrible
• Edge finder - Can't justify spending 2x more money for not even marginal improvement over imports.
• Micrometer - I've experienced better ones. Etalon, Tesa, swiss-made brown and sharpe.
• Digitals - Mitutoyo reigns supreme.

I do like their punches though.